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I thought of that but only the front face needs to be strong. Even at 20% infill the font face shouldn't be cut into again at the same angle. With no slots, you can cut any angle you want on either side.

I agree, the template radius looked more gradual than the end result on this first go around. My current pads and template for making them are more rounded. However, they also work fine, no apparent loss of suction since I can pick up my MFT by pulling up on the workpiece when on.

I wouldn’t think you’d notice flexing if using two correct diameter steel rods. If the bit make a 1/16” deviation I don’t think anyone would notice.

You can open it up, it's just a rubber seal, no silicone sealant used that you'd break and have to reapply. Just reassemble nice and tight. The impeller usually don't turn on at the start to sink it until after a 30 second or so initialization, it sounds like it's failing before that so the impellor doesn't turn on. That's what mine was doing when I had to replace it. Since I've done the video, it's still going strong.

@@thewoodwork_ca OK, thank you...I just had the impeller running again by removing the impeller and turning a few turns the impeller shaft with a pair of pliers to''unseize'' it.... The robot was in storage for the winter, so it was probably seized a little bit. Works again like new...fingers crossed....

I'm attempting the same thing but unseizing the motor with force, it might work but absolutely will seize again. The bearing is probably dry. I will try to get to it, lubricate it and report back later to say if that worked. Hayward does not consider parts inside the motor unit to be servicable so there is no help out there to follow.

Ok It wasn't easy but I managed to pack some new grease in the front bearing of the impeller motor. The bearing is sealed with a rubber ring so it was easy to pry it off. Due to the design I could not properly remove all the brown and black garbage in the bearing but I added some fresh grease to fill it up. Seems to run well for now. I'll come back to this comment over time to track how long it lasts.

If both wheels are running true but off balance and you dressed the edge of the wheels so they are flat I’m not sure what would cause your off balance. Maybe the density of the wheel isn’t consistent.

@@thewoodwork_ca You just responded to another person and I kind of rewrote what I just said here. I took so long to type, you replied to me also so I just saw this. Anyway, no i wasn't dressing the sides of the wheels. I had trued up the roundness of the stone and was trying to add modified washers to act as a counterbalance.

Assuming the shaft diameter and the grinding wheels inner diameter are within .00005" ?

Off camera I did test the Diamond wheel with regular washer and it had the same wobble. Washers are never a snug fit on any shaft so they can slide on -there is always some play.

@@thewoodwork_ca I did some experimenting myself, as I'm setting up an old 6 inch grinder. I found a thick, 1/2" wide washer in the metric at the hardware store. Its diameter was much, much closer to the shaft diameter. As you just stated, regular washers are too sloppy of a fit. This metric one seemed like it might work, so I tested it for fit. My plan was to lob off a good portion of one side of the washer to make it behave as a counterbalance. Anyhow, before modifying the washers, I placed one washer on the inside against the shaft lip, then installed grinder wheel with both of the grinder washers still in place. I wanted to see if the wheel wobble was any better. I turned the grinder on and it was no better, no worse. When I tried to take the nut off, I couldn't twist it off with my fingers. A dozen balancing attempts before, I had put the nut on finger tight and had been able to remove it with my fingers. 🤔 Well, with these two washers on the inside, they must have allowed the wheel to spin against the but, this tightening it. I put a wrench on the nut and had to tap it fairly hard to get the nut loosen. It was tight enough to be scarry. I ditched my attempt to use additional washers for balancing.

Yes,he compared 2 different wheels with 2 different mounting techniques. He should have 1st retested the white stone wheel with just the precision washers. If it fixes the problem, great. Or it improves, good. Next,retest white wheel with original washers and pivoting washer set and note any improvements or degradation. And finally, precision washers with pivoting washers and white stone wheel and check results. That way one could PROBABLY narrow it down to a out-of-true stone or a stone with a weight distribution problem....and that's a whole new problem. I'd make sure the white stone came from a reputable abrasive company and check the shaft with a dial indicator. Where does Baldor get the wheels they use?

Yes you are correct. I have spoken and since fired both my writer staff as well as my producer for the confusion it has caused you. However, last weekend I put on the original white wheels, the new washers and it ran true, much better than the original washers. I originally did not test the hood washers on the old white wheels because I bought all the new items in one order (Diamond wheel and spherical washers) and was excited to get them all on.

Maybe they took a beat up sander that someone burned out, replaced the motor but kept the housing.

For my pool cleaner the motor was part# RCX40000DC. They should advertise the part #. I wouldn’t buy any other motor unless it’s the correct part# or reference the pool cleaner it’s compatible with. They’re too expensive to make a mistake.

I bought mine from Amazon, it was a Amazon warehouse offer so possibly a return or damaged box at a discount. In the motor box they included that parts bag. Not sure if that’s what’s normally included.

The plug removal was at 5:45. Mine pulled out with a little wiggling back and forth. If that didn't work I would have taken pliers to try and pull up on the plastic housing. I would definitely wiggle it though before doing that, yours seems tighter than mine.

There’s lots of stuff on the internet of things to try but other than making sure your shaft isn’t bent or your flanges aren’t flat, most people blame the wheels. CBN wheels are balanced and you can’t dress them so they can go out of true or balance. Lots of things can cause a wheel to be unbalanced like the weight or density of material heavier on one side. If the wheel loose and hanging on the shaft, you tighten it and dress it true that means you took material off one side more so it’s not the same density all around any more. Make sure those bushings are super high tolerance. Plastic loose ones could make you true away your wheel badly.

I got them from woodturnerswonders.com 8” radius and an 8” mega square. 1” face. Prices are on their website, great people to deal with.

To be honest, a lot of companies steal ideas and designs. Look how many tracksaw brands came out as soon as the patent expired from Festool. They all came out at once.

I am suprised how unaware people are that this is a widespread chinese trick. Since they're being used as manufacturing plants of the world, they find a way or another to steal the blueprints (you can't produce something unless you have all the plans anyway). And then they simply continue producing extra volume which they keep and resell for cheap to chinese companies. Is it illegal, probably but the chinese have it all figured that sueing them would be more expensive and leads nowhere in China anyway with the state actually sponsoring this kind of stealing activity litterally. The chinese find a way or another to source the missing parts usually worse quality. All this is kind of a way for China to say, you think you can use us to produce for cheap and pocket the big margins, not so, whenever you produce in china your design always ends up in our hands and is quickly grabbed by chinese companies. It's crazy that even today people still give a green card to china. Trump was doing the right thing to put quota and taxes on chinese products since they're always counterfeit one way or another. But it's the parasite usa bankers who don't want their investement in china to be threatened (they don't care about the american people) who keep china afloat with their cheating , stealing and counterfeiting. They're more guilty than the chinese and should be dealt with. "Arbeit macht frei" was the main teaching of germany to bankers who are parasites.

I should have tried testing the wobble without the spherical washers to see if the problem carried over to the cbn wheels and if I needed them. But seeing as how when I tighter the nut they shifted over a bit I think I did benefit using them.

It’s the crap stamped steel washers on those original stones, just look at them, no turning marks to true each face to each other and one moose with a big wrench and the washers are toast, machined washers or a machined washer collar are the fix plus feather torque on the shaft nuts and it’s all good to go

Absolutely.

The cheapest one I see in Canada Amazon is about $21 with free shipping. It’s crazy how low they’re going. People are looking at the carbide blade version now maybe.

Just a simple upspiral bit to plunge and then cut.

Doubtful. They're all usually made in the same factory minus the woodpeckers which is made in house. The rest are made then individual companies buy them with names, put their own name on it and that's why it's so many companies offering the same exact thing

Sometimes you just want to quickly ease and edge on a straight board without having to dig out a router, or make noise or dust. Sometimes it's quicker sometimes it's not. It depends on the work.

@@thewoodwork_ca tqvm thats was a clear answer.

Can't comment on why professionals use it, but I live in a residential area and using a quiet hand tool is much friendlier towards my neighbours than firing up a noisy router.

There is no blade movement now, the new version have a retainer screw.

1"

I just spent some time trying to get an original white Rikon wheel to run true using the spherical washer set. What I had to do was slide their fitting offside (the way they fit together) to create a slant the way a shim would work. I did get them to run true to a really acceptable amount but I don’t like how much work I had to put into it. If the wheel moved position on startup I’d have to redo it all unless I marked the positions of everything. But these would work the best over sticking shims or paper so I recommend them still.

@@thewoodwork_ca very interesting, I wonder why the quality is so low on these high end tools

@@TheGrantAlexander Thanks China

Those new wheel should run true for the price they cost and most likely you didn’t need to waste money on those dished washers, just get a sleeve of proper length. Many can’t afford those very expensive wheels

The wheels running true is not the problem. The grinder you put them in is almost always the issue (arbor, flange washers).