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HI!!! Thanks. I hope all is well.

At about 50k. Totally unacceptable!

@@rasta997turbo9 I had just same leak and it 85k KM so it looks like almost same mileage.

Hi. You cannot remove the left line without removing the right line because they merge at the engine block. At the "merged" part, the LEFT line is behind the RIGHT line so you have to remove the right line. The right side line is very easy to remove. The left line makes you want to burn the GL and send it back to MB with a big middle finger. LOL

Thank you for your quick reply. You're probably right. How do you get the E fan removed? I tried but I failed. I can't find any videos about it on the internet. How many clips, or screws do I have to solve and where. Thank you for your answer

@@tuncaykukumavlar7947 Sorry for the late reply. there are 2 clips holding the fan in place. Push it out slightly on each side and then pull on the fan. You may have to lift one side at a time. The extra cooling line for the a/c (I think) can make it difficult to remove easily in the tight space but you should be able. It's much easier when you have the turbo inlet hoses (the aluminum pieces) off.

Hi. Thanks! The only thing I can think of that could cause your loose upper portion of the seat are the blots and nut that hold the upper seat in place. See the ruclips.net/video/2yMsz76jkBU/видео.html - this should be around the 25:27 mark in the video. Hopefully you can see the brass nut and 2 torx bolts. Those may need to be tighten. I don't have any issues with the seats in the 09 Turbo but I do have slight movement on my 07 Turbo and I suspect this could be the issue. I haven't checked but will shortly because it is a bit annoying.

@@rasta997turbo9 Thanks for the reply I’m going to give it a go and will let you know how I get on

Yeah. Definitely time consuming but not as bad as everyone makes it out to be. I didn't realize knocking could be an issue on cyl 6. The larger coil I used didn't rub on the VTG. It was the bolt that was the issue. I didn't have a grinder so it took forever to file the head down. Crossing my fingers it won't be an issue!

@@rasta997turbo9 Yep.. the bolt is the issue. I've seen a guy use a dremel and cut the corner of the coil down and use a shorter bolt. But if yours isn't touching, your good to go.

HRE P40 Series.

@@rasta997turbo9 Thank you. I love your videos, thanks for making them.

@@rasta997turbo9 after looking at the HRE website, I don't think those are the wheels. The wheels on the car in this video are 5 spoke designs. maybe they are the HRE 305s?

@@ninjatux Apologies, my bad. Those are Champion Motorsport RS184 rims - sold them back in 2020. I changed them out for the P40s.

Love them. Not harsh or any extra noise coming from the rear. I don't think there is any difference between the Torque Solutions and the RSS versions I have in my white Turbo. I may pull the OEM struts and shocks out and put in Bilsteins. Notable difference between OEM and Bilsteins - I prefer the Bilstein as they feel better in my white turbo.

Thank you for watching! Hmm . . . budget . . . if only it was easy to stay within budget . . . . LOL.

I’ve justified the cost in both time and money by convincing myself that the upgrade will bring me an amount of joy that is equivalent to buying a new Porsche. Of course, a rationale person may challenge my logic. The rationale person might start by saying buying a Porsche is not a good economic decision in the first place.@@rasta997turbo9

Just the turbo lines but I think my pump will need replacing soon. It's stating to weep a bit. Less than 66k miles . . . MB IS BIGGEST POS!!!!

@@rasta997turbo9 got the culprit on my w222, it was the turbo charger coolant line (left) and vent hose snapped off, any reason why they break, is it the heat? Looks like I just have to replace those two and the others are good still.

@@juniordace1347 Heat cycles and just good old fashion cheap materials. My 2015 GL550 had less than 50k miles when this all happened and more has has deteriorated since - less than 70k miles now . . . ultimately, if you intend to keep your POS MB (I've invested so much in parts - luckily I do my own repairs as much as possible - I plan to keep mine for a while), then you'll need to replace all the aluminum/plastic combo hoses. They are so bad, you can easily crush them by simply pinching the plastic sections. My coils are starting to go out as well. I have replaced the ignition coils for cylinder 2, 5, and 6 last year. Cylinder 3 ignition coil is starting to fail and as well as the A/C compressor . . . all before hitting 70k miles. Apologies for the rant . . .

Do you mean the coolant breather hose? This one? www.autohausaz.com/pn/136943_850_4260_4579__6_6-OE-1665001091?Mercedes&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA2KitBhCIARIsAPPMEhKrkl-vU6Nhp7nm7c0nR5PFrsvs7Wx0XU1L0T18d3KoTYjnPmOh4LkaAt7zEALw_wcB

@@rasta997turbo9 yes thank you, after some digging I found the name, thank you

Thank you!

Thanks. They are the HRE P40 series. I believe they have been discontinued.

Thanks and good luck.

Hi, Around the 6:54 to 7:00 minute mark is where I provide the parts diagram and part numbers. There is also a part the sits right on top of the engine that should be replaced as well. That POS is also made of plastic and prone to fail. I don't have the part number but if you lift the center engine cover, it is located right below the MB emblem of the cover. It's a little plastic hose that connects to the center of the engine head/block. Ask the parts guy at the dealer and he/she will know exactly what you are looking for because they replace those all the time! I hate my MB . . .

Great tip! Since the part was only $15, replacing it was an easy decision. Worry free for the next few years.

It was online. I don't recall the vendor - it has been 3 years! I just searched "Porsche tartan fabric" or "Tartan fabric" or something similar. Good luck.

Thanks. Love the 991.1 GT3 - such a visceral car! Adding a Alcantara center console would be sweet. Hope my center console removal video helps.

I disagree this project should only be tackled by a shop. It's a long process but can be done by someone with average skills. Disconnecting and moving the coolant and oil lines to the side makes access to the front and middle coil and plugs much easier. I do agree with you about possibly not lowering the engine. I found when I lowered the engine about an inch or 2, it had minimal impact. Overall its a time consuming job but is possible as I have demonstrated in the video.

It can be done by someone with average skills but is it worth it? I wanted to learn and thought it was easy, it was the biggest pain in the ass! But on the other hand nothing is easy on these cars! Changing the fuel filter is not easy, changing the multibelt is not easy and son on...@@rasta997turbo9

thank you!

Hi Steve, I don't know . . . but I suspect its a 4 to 6+ hour job given the amount of lines to replace. I think you spend a couple of hours removing the intake turbo hoses, major coolant lines, A/C compressor (removed from the bracket and not disconnecting the a/c lines), etc.. The location of the turbo coolant line connector on the driver side turbo is stupid tight as you can see from the video. If my recollection serve me right, It took me approximately 8+ hours. A professional should be able to do in less time as they already know what to do. It was my first time so it took a lot of time to figure things out. This should be very similar to the S550 because I think it's the same engine.

I googled the part number and ordered online from MB dealers throughout the US. You just need to search for the deals (sometimes it's worth it if shipping is reasonable). In my case I think I ordered maybe 1 or 2 hoses online and the others I purchased from a local dealer because I was on a short fuse to get it done. One thing you should also change is the crankcase breather pipe plug. It is made of plastic and will snap with the slightest touch (THANKS MB!). While you are at it, change the breather pipe/hose as well - it's the short hose that connects to the overflow hose. These aren't expensive from the dealer and they have plenty in stock because they know these fail regularly. www.partsgeek.com/3p9c7jx-mercedes-gl550-crankcase-breather-pipe-plug.html www.partsgeek.com/8cc1ncb-mercedes-gl550-crankcase-breather-pipe.html?SC&PartsGeek+Google+Base&+Mercedes+GL550+Crankcase+Breather+Pipe+Genuine+13-16+Mercedes+Crankcase+Breather+Pipe+2014+2015&cid=18313611776&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0vWnBhC6ARIsAJpJM6fd5Rhlmi7UB4L_dQGAd63aB4UX_6Jtw0dW4ERp4OEJnbn5uLcKafAaAgD3EALw_wcB

At about the 3:28 minute mark, you'll see a few really long screw drivers/pry bars. I used the straight flat one and was able to remove the the broken connector from underneath the car. It was tight going from the bottom but that was the only access I had. It's really tight there so take your time and try not to get frustrated.

Thank you! I'm not sure I have noticed because I have more then just the y-pipe. I have a slew of other upgrades: intercoolers, plenum, GT3 throttle body, ecu flash, etc. . . . The reason I changed out the y-pipe was to complete the IPD set. Overall she's pushing great power and mostly unusable for the street but fun to have when I want to give her a go!

Thanks man . . . only took 3 years to find another project car!

Thanks!

I agree 100%. The plastic connectors are garbage. They break at the slightest touch and I worry about another leak every time I drive the car . . . will it leave me stranded somewhere. Also, I had to change my front struts at 50k miles because they failed and would make this loud "clunking" noise over ever bump in the road. Biggest POS on wheels!

Fairly short. There's just enough room to remove and reinsert it.

Nope! Same stupid plastic lines. There's also a short coolant line that sits on top of the engine block (closer to the front of the engine) that needs to be replaced as well. Mine snapped off after grazing it with my hand when I was in the process of replacing the air filters.

@@rasta997turbo9 how much do u think avg indy shops charge for turbo coolant line replacements?

@@ralph02136 I've heard anywhere for $1500 to $2000. Totally worth doing it yourself (minus the bit of frustration).

@@rasta997turbo9 Does it depend on the car or would it be a similar price for all models with the m278?

@@ralph02136 not sure but I would call an indy and ask. I'm sure it'll be a slight difference.

I don't think it's an issue. Just connect the new cables and then set the trans in neutral and reset the cables to the correct position.

Oh I don't plan to sell . . . ever. Glad you appreciate what I did. 2 years and I still can't close a deal on the 2nd Turbo! I'm dying to get started on the next modification project bro. Wish me luck this year because I'm determined to put a second one in the garage in 2023!

@@rasta997turbo9 It'll happen man! Stay on it, the deals are out there. I picked up my 987-S from San Antonio. Houston cars can be overly pricey.

If you jump to 6:52 in the video, I show a diagram of the parts and then the part numbers for each. Good luck.

Do I need to remove the wheel

@@zishanahmad3273 I believe you must remove the wheel because you need to remove the wheel liner. You will find a heat shield that you can cut with a stout knife and fold back. I did this… it is not approved by MB, but saves 6 hours plus an AC recharge. Good luck

@@capn_shawndid you remove radiator and fan?

@@mikimiki195 No, it is not necessary. The driver side requires removal of the turbo charge pipes and (going from memory), accessory belt and a few brackets. I did not open the coolant system other than what leaked out the broken fitting. I also did not remove the fan but I could see how it would make life easier if it were not there. I used a mirror and a magnet to re-install the hose mounts. You will see that there is just one way for the hose/pipe to fit. Once you snake it into place it will support itself, but I imagine it will fail quicker if the support brackets are not there. Replace both inlet and outlet if you are in there. Even an idiot like myself can do this in less than 3 hours. The passenger side is way easier. Not going to lie, I've done this twice and had it done twice. Once under warranty and once because it broke 1600 miles from home and I had no way to do it myself. Apparently these pieces of junk only last 30-40K miles. We are on the 5th set since the car was new. Since we are at 180K miles now, I probably shouldn't make any plans for next weekend. Just so you know, both times I did this, the O-Ring fitting in the turbo was seized in the hole. I don't know if it is dissimilar metals or what, but it takes some twisting and re-thinking life to get it out. The new ones go in like butter, so it isn't a fitment thing.

@@capn_shawn great so you did everything from the top without removing a/c compressor and no cutting heat shield on driver side or removing the wheel?

I agree but those led tails are the only options now. As for the bumps, the Euro bumpers don't have them. They can be easily removed but the holes would need to be covered.

Good luck.

Awesome! Do you attend the Lonstar PCA GTG in the Woodlands? I've never been but heard good things. I occasionally go to the GTG in Houston (Central GTG).

@@rasta997turbo9 Yes, I do attend the Woodlands (4th Sat of the month). I've got a midnight blue 997.1 TT cab. Hope to see you at a future event.

@@samtoscano6891 Cool. I'll try to make it up there next month.

Was your pump bad or the reservoir?

@@jrlvnv508the pump was bad. No issue with the reservoir.

Unfortunately no. About a couple of months after completing the work and posting the video, my car was totaled in an accident. I did notice a slight (very slight) change but it was probably due the extra grease I placed between the joint and crevices.

Appreciate the opinion. The LED tail lights are not for everyone but I prefer them over the OEM, which look a little dated IMO. I still have the OEM so I can always reinstall them if my mood changes in the future.