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@@Wonderland0Cloud I'm not sure. I believe it may have to be their brand unless you can find one with the same breakaway edges

@@TiXeNo1 install pronterface, open it, connect to printer with it, close it, connect with bl5k. It's a known issue.

@@todddorey6492 no. The Z axis uses an inductive sensor. If it's not homing, either the sensor is disconnected, defective or your nozzle is sticking down too low

@@gabormolnar2532 dunno. I use klipper.

@@bdunni88 mine is good. I can't speak for the experiences of others, but right now they're priced cheap AF

@@davedempsey5282 humor sometimes doesn't translate through the Internet. If you look at the printer.cfg, there are two macros that run when it does that, though. I don't see any resonance calls, just a bunch of G1 moves.

@@mattrichardson4351 I don't see why not

@@8-P it did. Does it show the main menu?

@@TheFeralEngineer Thanks for the reply. It says 'Homescreen' on the top left in chinese, but I cannot navigate any menu.. I might have to send it back

@@8-P contact them at support@artillery3d.com. They might have you try to do a firmware update first.

@@TheFeralEngineer Does your Printer has a clickpoint on the front Reset button? Mine doesnt move at all. So restarting to update the firmware is impossible, restarting with power on/off didnt change anything. Currently trying to upgrade the firmware This is a mess :D had high hopes to go the clipper route using your setup, but not even getting it run out of the box is kind of a bummer tbh..

I think I have found it.. The Restart-Button is nodged in really, really hard. So when powering up, the UI just locks up.. When pushing it to a side again (so hard my fingers hurt) it becomes loose, but only has like 0.5mm of travel. Pushing it in once made it stuck again. Moving the printerhead to home made it also stuck again! Ha, so my printer is defective.. sending it bac. I will go for a bambu..

@@catsonthecastle I replaced the control board and installed Linuxcnc on mine. I don't know anything about the stock software

@@krwd you can procure third party materials. You can also use my coupon code, theferalengineer, for 20% off at any time.

Yup. it accommodates a single 3Kg roll sat between the two rollers.

​@@Zodliness that is awesome to know. Thank you

Update: mine arrived with a two inch scratch on the front facia, luckily at the top corner where it's not too noticeable.

@@GeeDeeONE watch the part 2 video

@@TheFeralEngineer just for info... *laughingmyassoff* ...a misplaced plastic spool of filament that gets stuck in the motor can cause a BRRRRR as well 😀 FIXED! (Thx for the lightning speed fast answer, much appreciated!)

@@GeeDeeONE gets ya every time

@@kimberlycedillo5648 you need to use the paper they sell as far as I know

@@bkmakhoba I use a small xacto blade to lift up on the lock that holds the jst pin

@@TheFeralEngineer Oh I see it, Thank you!

and.....

@@rv7builder397 when I get home on Sunday I'll do it (if I remember). Did you check the ribbon cable? That's typically the failure mode. Either that or the daughter card in the tool head.

@@TheFeralEngineer The end of the ribbon that mates with the extruder is a little suspect looking, but the extruder has progressively failed. Dying mid print, then dying mid-test after powering up the printer, to currently it will just stutter without feeding at 1st powerup, then it won't even make a sound. After posting here, I noticed in the comments that someone else had asked for the wiring diagram, so I emailed Artillery last night about 9:00 PM CDT. In less than 10 minutes they replied with the basic hookup diagram pdf, plus a troubleshooting procedure showing test points & resistance measurement values on the extruder, and telling me to send them my test values so they can continue to help. If you have an actual schematic showing component-level stuff on the main board, that would be great, but I do have the basic wiring diagram. I'll bet there are plenty of others that would like to have it available, though. Again, thanks for both the video and the offer of the diagram.

@@dbuezas that's one of those polarizing opinion things. It's always worked for me.

@@TheFeralEngineer but you want the heat break to be cold, right? Then it makes sense to have thermal paste on the cold zone.

@@dbuezas I put it on both hot and cold sides and have never had an issue. The paste aids in thermal transfer, so in theory, it should help the hot side stay hot and the cold side stay cool. I've been running machines like this for over a year with no issues.

@@TheFeralEngineer I see, so you want the core of the heat throat itself to be hot on one side and cold on the other, even though it is a single piece of metal.

@@TheFeralEngineer I see how this can be polarizing. I'm polarized myself already hehe

@@nerootheone only with their SDK

@@biggsean302 out of square? I used alignment jigs when I put rails on my 3

@@TheFeralEngineer The X and Y offsets are off.

@@seanwhite4586 I don't understand the correlation unless they aren't running smoothly and triggering a false home

@@bspages didn't have any issues with clogging during prints, I had issues with clogging when trying to remove the filament from the extruder. It would heat up and stretch the filament like salt water Taffy, the little piece would cool and swell on the cold side of the heatbreak and I'd have a clog.

@@TheFeralEngineer I got the same machine. It's a great machine when working right. There is an issue with it printing side to side or using the whole printable area. It would crash and give you a firmware warning. It will ask you to reboot the firmware. The OEM knows about this issue, and they are not willing to fix it., so you will not be able to use the entire print area. They could be better at customer service and support. Please stay away if you are new to 3D printing; you must learn to troubleshoot it yourself. I am new to OrcaSlicer. I used CURA (Marlin), so there was a little learning curve, but only a little. Once you get this dail in, it's a crazy printing machine. I only print with PLA or PETG on this machine. I got the QIDI Plus4 for the more abrasive filaments. When changing the filament - keep advancing the filament by pushing the button a lot. This will prevent it from cooling down and clogging the nozzle. It's cheap, and print quality is excellent for printing prototype parts. I will be buying 2 more.

The brackets fit perfectly! That's why I was excited to find your video. So much less to design. The bar's inside is to narrow for my strip lights so I changed that. Again, thank you for .step files! I just have to figure out how I want to modify the center screws holes for the bar since they will end up hitting the light strip in their current position.I switched over to a 2020 T-Slot print but had trouble printing it vertically. I figure out how to fix that (use a different build plate) but then decided I like your bar much better for this project anyway. :) I love designing stuff! Thanks again.

@@hedleypepper1838 which is why I have other videos that break everything down into digestible pieces. My installing klipper the easy way video is pretty much universal for all installs, the rest of the videos are just abridged versions to show installing on various devices

@@ryankingston7733 I haven't, but pause/resume is baked into klipper, so it should be pretty simple

@@TheFeralEngineer Perfect! thank you for pointing that out, I will give that a go for sure. Thanks again. : )

@@MaddMaxxTcs so please, show me how it should be done. Otherwise, gfys

I've an observation to make here. @MaddMaxxTcs , you felt the need to unnecessarily stop, just to complain unnecessarily abou.... Ya ever stop yourself mid comment knowing that some people are just not capable of seeing past their own noses. This was one of those moments for me. In fact, this might be the reason I stop inter-netting today.

@@tala-a9538 no. They use switches, not sensorless homing

@@Theycallmeroe I installed silicone spacers almost immediately

@@TheFeralEngineer ok Ive made some spacers and was able to get one voron cube have a link to the spacers you used? I tried to print a benchy and the bed always ends up too close then i adjust offset then its too far i keep having to babysit prints to even see if it will print and it just wont I see the potential in quality it has but i cant get it to work.

The funny part about it is that I was able to pull that off in one take 😂

@@UnboxTheSocks the sv08 has had some major growing pains, this thing has been almost bulletproof as much as it sounds like a bunch of malarkey coming from a "reviewer" (I'll never refer to myself as the 'i' word 🤮), it's totally the truth. It's a little bitchy at times but I've been pretty much able to start a print from my living room, check on it 3 hours later and I've got a finished print. There have been a couple things with brittle filament or running out mid print and not catching it, but even then, the bed is set up to stay on, which is nice. Where do you see bots?

@@TheFeralEngineer Thats pretty convincing. I think the sentiment towards the sv08 has been pretty positive lately as well but I could buy practically two of these for the price of an sv08. I've noticed that any video that hints at bambu lab not being absolutely perfect gets bombarded with hate comments about it and you don't really see that with criticism about any other company and I think regular people don't care enough to defend bambu labs like that. So i think theres some campaign from bambu labs to try and deter youtubers from talking badly or something. Nathan builds robots and some viewers of his were talking about it and it makes sense to me. The comment on this video about it being dishwasher safe sounded kinda weird although maybe you mentioned that and I missed it

@@UnboxTheSocks ah okay I see what you mean. I've found a majority of Bambu users to just be a bunch of toxic, brainwashed idiots, so I don't really pay them any mind. Even negative engagement is still engagement, so their bullshit still drives up my numbers 😀. Yeah, the TX has been pretty wonderful. I'm not saying it's perfect and I'll probably do the klipper 12 and 32gb Emmc mod to it (vivé la content!), but print results have been super predictable. I even ordered the accessories and I'm in the process of printing the parts for adding a drag chain. In the future, I may add the Oliver acrylic top mod as well.