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None at all from the CAI but have had one a while back from the pedal commander (pedal under voltage) which I cleared with a scanner and it has never come back.

Thank you 🙏 I sand the part with various grades of paper down to as fine as I can get it without blemishes then a bench grinder with a combination of loose and stitched cotton wheels and cutting compounds. It is a tedious job but well worth it.

Why are you being political on a RUclips video about synching carbs? You probably know very little about either subject.

@@johncooney9332 Ohhhh Butt Hurt Johnny got me! Answer: Carb Synch, very little and why I am watching. Why: because I am an American Patriot that loves my Freedom and exercising it. Now I have to go act like a liberal and cry cause Johnny hurt my feelings.

So good mate, it's crazy what some things cost especially when they have a brand behind them!

Hi Mike, I have had the same issues sporadically. Sometimes it can jump from 60 to 120 😅 I feel it may be induced magnetic interference from other cables or electronic equipment close to the OEM signal cable where the digital Speedo is quick enough to pick it up and the old electronic dial wasn't? I have had it in my mind for a while that next time I have her apart I was going to try a shielded cable from close to the paralever all the way up to the Speedo connection point to see if this eliminates the issue. I will post a vid once I do it with the results.

That would be amazing, I get 3 different speeds(one of them being correctly matched with my gps). I have seen products such a signal boosters from Axel Joost(lunchbox remover) but if a simple shielded cable can fix it I would prefer it. Looking forward to the next video. Thank you

@@mikebarnett9415 It may be a little while Mike .and its only a hunch as the pickup in the final drive uses magnets that pass it to sense the rotation I think it's magnetic interference from other parts of the electrical system that my be giving these results. If your in a hurry you could google suppressors for this or run a length of shielded cable temporarily and ground the shield to the frame and see what you get. Otherwise I will be trying it soon over our winter here in Aus when I get some free time. 😉

Hi there, it's purely a sensor for levels and has no effect on the motor running or not whether it works or doesn't buddy.

Hi there, you wouldn't have much luck with the methods you have mentioned. It's viscosity is very thin like automotive paint so you could possibly touch up small chips with an artist brush but that's about it. I have also used a small air brush to paint smaller items which only needs a mini compressor but that restricts you to very small items.

@@twistedfatebuilds ; I understand, and thank you for that, it helps a lot.

Still holding up fine James. Haven't had any issues buddy

It sure does. Nothing like real induction sound to me though 😉

Thanks buddy, no issues whatsoever. The only time I've had anything was when I put a throttle controller in and it and a check engine light and code which was low pedal voltage when I checked with my scanner. Cleared it and it's never came back

Thanks buddy 🙏

Google is your friend mate, ebay, direct from venhill etc or most MX stores.

Depends on the part mate. I have used a 900 conventional oven for a lot of the parts, my lidded BBQ for taller parts (just have to adjust the burners continuously to keep the temp correct) and for the larger items like the wheels and frame I used C series which is ambient cure, no oven bake needed

Thanks for that I didn't know cerakote has these products@@twistedfatebuilds . I hear that many times cerakote flacks off. Whats your experience with using it on rims etc? Does it flake off etc ?

@@motorsonny 100% not true mate. If you follow their preparation and application guide you'll have no issues. It would be those that cut corners saying that if I was to guess. My wheels are now 2 years on and not even a scratch. that's also with 2 tyre changes (due to leaking valves not wear) I have done other vids testing the chemical and scratch resistance which I was super impressed with

Great idea mate 👍

@@twistedfatebuilds can you make a picture of this so we can put on our tv also ;)

@@stefanladang2933 Hi Stefan, of what buddy? If you mean the mirror you just have to sit one somewhere to direct a light source into the sensor 😉

@davidmelonson6423 can you take a picture of it with your aluminium foil?

I would honestly spend the extra now buddy. These things sound ok but as you say it's the little things like stainless grade, clamps etc that may not do as well down the track.

@@twistedfatebuilds so you really think it's worth the extra $400? Have you had any issues?

@@orangecream2870 It's really personal choice mate. I did go this due to the price but compared to the quality of the tenabe I had on my IS350 with welds, stainless and sound (the most) I think I would spend the extra. Not sure if you've seen in the previous comments but I have moved the system on now as my wife didn't like how loud it was and the slight drone as she always drove in auto. To negate this and keep it sounding good I found you had to drive in manual to keep it in the sweet spot which I never had with the likes of the tanabe medallion

So far so good mate, a couple of years in and no real marks or scratches. I did a video testing it against common chemicals etc and it held up well and only slightly less scratch resistance to H series baked. Having said that I have had two sets of tyres fitted to the C series R100 wheels I did and even the removal and installation twice hasn't left a mark whatsoever

@twistedfatebuilds would you say ghe C series is more abrasion resistant than 2K paint? Do you know?

@@broom6958 Couldn't say for sure mate as I've only done my tests on Cera. If you can find the abrasion resistance levels for the 2k your thinking I have seen that the cerakote website does specify the levels for each series and colour which may give you more of an idea

@@twistedfatebuilds aight. Thank you so much for the information!

@@broom6958 Pleasure buddy

Thanks mate, as for this over the F sport I think you'd be fine with either as I had the F sport CAI on my previous IS350 Fsport and it looked and sounded exactly the same. I guess it just comes down to availability and price but you won't regret either.

@@twistedfatebuilds i just called lexus now to make sure if they’re available for the ES but turns out not lol, lame !! Thanks again

I had the same issues buddy. I just dusted the spots and hit them with a heat gun which seemed to work. Be careful it's not too wet at the edges of the spit patch or those parts seemed to go a bit shiny.

Great. Thanks for the tip. So glad I don’t have to strip it down. For your engine block did you just use the heat gun or was your grill large enough to fit it? I’m trying to attempt the same look you have with the engine.

There's plenty of them on ebay buddy. Just search soldering pot

Not too sure mate apart from contacting all the BMW motorcycle mechanics. Motorworks UK have a lot of 2nd hand parts and are reasonably priced but it depends on the size and weight as shipping may be a killer

Thanks so much for the comment brother 🙏

Thanks mate 🙏 and to be completely honest I don't notice one bit of difference. This is my weekend cruiser though and not something I'm laying over in the twisties 😉

Hi there, I did mate and can't remember having any issues though. Do you have a thick coating on the bars you could sand down a little?

Melbourne based buddy.

Hey mate, these are cheap hotdogs I got from Ali express. I broke them down and re packed them with better matting and trimmed the silencer then coated them in some Cerakote C series armor black. I have a small post on it at my insta instagram.com/reel/CSQlWP4Bkrt/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Glad it hopefully explained it for you and fixes the issue 😉

Exactly Tyler, it was just to match the block and covers buddy.

Hi there, as per the vid I mocked her up on a stand to determine the standard height of the frame as per similar OEM bikes and then allowed the swingarm to drop a little which would even out when weight was added. It is a little bit of a guessing game but the shocks do have adjustment in them. I have the exact measurements I used you'll see in my reply to comments on my insta post here if your interested instagram.com/p/CEfke6IBXwS/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Thank You. Really love what you did to your bike. Also your youtube and instagram are very helpful.

​@@tylerd3351🙏 Thanks for the comment Tyler.

It's a Takeda buddy and OEM exhaust on with this vid.

Thanks buddy, I went through racing paradise on ebay

I'm curious if you were able to find a fix. I came across someone on RUclips stating that you can pull the sensor down by pulling on a tab. This would give the sensor more visibility into the room

Cerakote C series is ambient cure and cannot be baked. Your talking about H series.

Hi buddy, I'm pretty sure the pump shares the ground so not sure that is the problem. I ran mine through a BEP 3.0 so was easy to just go from that's output to the breakout box of the motoscope pro. Are you using the yellow wire from the sender as this is the one that reads the resistance? The white is a low level light for the OEM cluster.

​@@twistedfatebuilds Got it Scott, I think it must be the ground shared, so I feel the yellow wire in BEP3.0 pin 7 and BAR output to BOX B FUEL, still didnt get any signals, where/how is your pump ground to?

@@cmleung8133 I haven't done anything extra with the pump ground from the OEM wiring harnesses if your already using BEP 3.0 it should be taken care of already. Another thing to check is the BEP has a small dipswitch to change from BAR level reading to led Indicator it's the bottom of the 3 slots. Make sure this is switched to level indicator. I'll try and send a pic of it as another builder I know found his was set to led indicate. Hit me up on insta or FB buddy and I'll send you a pic. Can't send through here :)

That's correct mate, the @jaxgarage top yoke gave a 15-20mm drop from memory and the shortening was another 25mm to get it where I wanted.

@@twistedfatebuilds Thanks! Looks good, how does it ride compared to before?

@@johnnyholmberg7773 Cheers mate. I honestly can't comment on the before and after as the donor bike was in such bad shape I virtually rode it home with teeth clenched and tore it straight down before it fell apart on its own 😅 but as for now I love it and she rides beautifully. The tiniest bit twitchy compared to my other bikes if I really had to pick something but that's more to do with removing the ugly OEM steering damper and not an issue for me.

Perfectly mate, the C series is a high temperature coating that I used on my BMW R100 airhead build you'll see in the other vids. I used armor black on the exhaust headers and other components and it's held up awesome after nearly two years. The different colours have different heat ratings but armor black was rated at 1200° F Heads up if you use it, she really smokes on first burn in for about 20 minutes so best to be outside.

Nice work mate, this is definitely a good work around. I'm not sure how but ours seems to be working pretty well now even without the mirror. No reason I couldn't go that way if it resurfaces. I do like that it turns off about 20-30 seconds after we hit the lights though.

I honestly couldn't tell you sorry mate, I just turned tthe solder pot up to the point that all the solder was fully melted but not smoking. From memory it was about 3/4 to high but that probably doesn't mean much unfortunately.

That's a weird one Howard. I have night mode on so when we turn off the lights at night it goes off. Sometimes it doesn't turn off as you say and I go back into settings and select never turn off then back to 5minutes and it comes good again. All I can suggest is you try this and make sure your software is up to date?

Great work, Pity we have to do this for something that should work out of the box but hopefully they fix it for the next models

Thanks for the update buddy 👌 unfortunately a software update won't do much for me due to the shadow cast over the sensor unless they reduce the amount of light it requires to trigger it maybe. The simple fix is the sensor should sit flush with the front of the body of the frame so no shadow is cast from lights above in the ceiling but can't see this happening so the mirror remains on my tallboy for now to get it to work as it should! 🙄

Thanks for the message mate, I'm running a small Aliant YLP14 lithium battery under the airbox delete cover I sourced from @rougemotorcycles here in Western Australia The trickle charge socket I used was from @ctek which pairs up with one of their lithium trickle chargers so she's topped up when not in use. I have a blade fuse for this under the cover. You can see all the details and plenty of pics on insta under twistedfate_builds buddy and your welcome to hit me up for any other details. Cheers scott