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I just put together a 1968 327(made into a 350) and I'm using the stamped roller tip with a roller Melling cam(MC22398). Those rockers i purchased from Speedmaster and they came with the Polylock nuts with the internal set screw. I cant run that engine for more than 120 seconds without 1 or several nuts coming loose. I tried the Prevailing Torque Lock Nuts as well. Same results. Ive put together maybe 8 engines in my life and never seen this. Before I spend more money on a barred and bolted type rocker system im thinking about welding those nuts to the stud after they are set. What are your ideas on this subject? The cam calls for a retro fit roller lifter but a local engine builder said that's not necessary. The lifters i have now should do the job. Dont know what else to do. Thanks for any feedback

It's awful tough beating a screaming F1 V10. That pure unadulterated smut for your ears. 😂

Nice use of vise grips.

Hey if it’s getting results 🤷‍♂️

Well done mate, thanks for posting. Looking forward to next event with the new hoops on. Cheers

What fuel pump are you running with the e85. About what jets does it take with the 4412. I am looking into swapping over to E.

If he hits you with body, not clean. If you got his rear bumper… the. It’s clean. Definitely unnecessary in hot laps.

Whatever gets the job done and whatever gets the black and white checkered flag

There is nothing like a super on the planet!

Damn near close. But on the other hand you got 410 sprint cars, sprint cup cars & on another level NITROMETHANE!

Good video!!

Not just weight, but big trunion bearings last longer because the spring load is spread over more bearings,andit just sits and rocks, so just because a rocker weighs more all that weight is not transfered to the valve train ! Study the science before assuming things. Hope this helps! GOD bless .

I found .024 thousands differance between after market rockers which both claimed to be 1.6, so check how far your valve goes down with each, you may be surprised

Not sure what you dis wrong. I upgraded to a double roller chain/gears and mine did not have clearance issues.

Had better luck with the Nirto Carb rockers without roller tip , the investment cast of those roller tips aren't very good get hot seen the shatter like glass . Good Videos

What do the pistons look like! I would put the shims under the locators, those look like .550 x 1.25. And beehives tend to not do so much harmonic damage to the components. That engine looks great for what you used it for and so long. Thanks for sharing.

Put shim's under locator

Hey John, great content, excellent work. Been thinking and #1 Symptoms of low oil flow. The grid mesh over the oil pickup lacks sufficient void area to handle the pump flow volume at full noise. Some simple math re size of wire sum div into pick up area and check flow data for oil pump at High RPM and lateral G's. #2 No thermostat, low engine temperature and thick oil harder to pull through the Pick up. (increased parasitic) #3 the Valve spring dampeners may have galled and probably sheered the base cups. Should be Sharp edges on the material found and possibly bent a push rod. #4 Mate of mine with a Dart 420 SBS runs an oil accumulator with a manually operated ball valve. (Looked into a solenoid valve setup but through flow was nowhere near the manual option) If you do fit one, the longer the hose the larger the capacity within reason. I highly recommend. But... it only works if you remember to open the valve before starting and closed before shut down. #5 Are you able to (by the B Mod Rules) fit a crankcase vac pump? Same SBC has belt driven setup and on the Dyno it shows 36 Hp gain swapping in and out. #6 Obviously, the polly-locks need to be swapped out at a regular interval. Regards and happy wheels, from Au

I ran into metal debris in the top of the heads around the rockers. After further looking it was the valve seals chopped up by the broken dampers. Removed each spring and took out pieces of dampers and seals from each one. Put all the springs back with no dampers and no seals. Ran 250 laps in 2 hours and couldn't tell the difference from when it was new. I should probably replace the springs and all this year because it's their 20th anniversary this year. LT4 Hot Cam and GM springs, lifters, pushrods, and self-aligning rockers. Been a great cam for enduro racing.

Thanks for the look into youe engine. I can't say I've ever heard of that type of failure in the valvetrain. If it were me I'd pull the dampers out of the valve springs and sand a 1/16" wide flat on the bottom of the coil parallel to the shim it will sit on, gently radius the end of the flat where the coil ends, then deburr and sharp edges left on the flat. Increasing the size of the contact area will lower the unit contact force immensely.

just a suggestion... for Sunday cleanup, add to your routine of pulling the ignition and cranking the engine to fog it with some 2-stroke gas mix while cranking. it'll help with the corrosion problems while sitting and waiting for the next weekend

Bearings look like detonation but with e85 idk whats your timing and compression look like

Fast

Just a couple of ideas here. The bearing kind of has an incipient shelling appearance. I don't know if the lining alloy is capable of that phenomenon or not, which is an alteration of the metal's microstructure due to high level repetitive loadings, and yields a shallow surface degradation. Just a thought. Might possibly be due to too much spark advance hammering on the machinery, while the ethanol retards detonation. Once again, just a thought. Can the sharp edge of the inner spring be blunted by grinding, to reduce the tendancy to cut the shim, or can the shim be placed under the hardened spring cup?. What about the old bronze wire valve guides on the exhaust?

50 times out of a Second?

Relief (not necessarily Xlax)😊

Did you win any races ?😊

What kind of induction system? Any way possible to run the engine on gasoline at the end of every running day?

For the rear main, if you tapped on it when installing, it could of popped off, or started to, right then. Trick there is to pack the back side of the seal over the spring with heavy grease to keep the spring from popping out.

I like it

I started working on cars for a living in the 70s.. Started racing a few years later... Never ever have I seen a tension spring come out of a seal like that... can not think it would be anything other than a manufacturing defect in the seal... A race motor with likely something around .003 clearance would scuff a bearing on start up unless maybe foot on the floor starts..

Ethanol Absorbs water. So yes it most likely was/is that cause of that. Longer it sits the more water it will absorb from the air. Its a nightmare on small engines, especially if you dont drain/clean it out before storage over winter. Can destroy engines in just a couple months. Such a stupid choice, more trouble than its worth. Thanks for the video mate, cheers.

As only a dedicated fan of your sport, I found this video fascinating. The number and type of wear issues that can affect the performance of a race car engine astounded me. That engine needs some type of award for getting you through a 30+ race night season. Thanks for sharing.

When installing 1 piece rear seals, always coat the inner side lip with grease where the spring is, so when you knock in the rear seal, it doesn't knock or jar the spring out of it's home behind the lip of the seal!

👍🏻👍🏻

That should work well. I like that it’s removable.

That looks like a keeper beaten out of a lifter.

Nice autopsy info.

Leakdown test?

I recently rebuilt a drag race motor I actually ran for several seasons. I ran alcohol fuel injection. I found that getting the motor hot(full temp) shutting it off and putting the breathers, evaporated the water/condensation out of the motor. I did change oil after each race. But that little trick helped. I was pleasantly surprised at how good my motor looked inside. My bearings looked even better than yours.

The funny wear on the brg. shell, did anybody weld on the chasis?

Could make a difference where the bearing shell was pulled, top/bottom, front/back. Not an expert by any means. Doubt it was debris, more like dry start or .0002" tight. As for the seal spring may be manufacturer defect, yet with a cracked flex plate makes one wonder if there wasn't a vibration issue. Not leaking also brings up the potential for positive crankcase pressure. Learned from a head builder that valve seals tend to starve the stem of oil and knurling the guide can help with oil retention. But that wasn't for racing applications.

Beehive valve springs. No dampers needed.

I bought a set of dampers for my Ford Kent 1600cc motor way back in the day. They were cut so that they had as large as possible contact area with the head and the valve retainer whereas the ones you have look like they are simply spring steel cut of at 90 degrees and then rolled into shape. Your ones look like they have a sharp corner (or slightly rounded) that is the contact point.

Dingle hall hone, stone hone, or the fancy deep cut followed by plateau cut for the lighter hard rings?

Thanks bruv. I’m learning about all of this stuff and I appreciate you creating and sharing this content!

Put your shims under the spring pockets.

Those metal pieces in the pickup are probably the lifter plunger retaining clips. Valves may have been adjustd too loose ad the plunger is banging on the clip and worked them out. Check the lifters see if two don't have clips... Great video!!!

Don't shims go under the bottom spring locator? That may be your issue.

put the shim under the spring cup next time