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@@arnbergrandylaurie8960 I got mine from a salvaged Liberty that had that option. You can buy the electric fan new for a reasonable amount. The mechanical fan can be found used as well as the shroud. They are a bit harder to find used, but they are out there. The shroud is different too. Finding a used one is your best bet and least expensive. If you look at pictures of Libertys being parted out, it is a larger shroud than the electric fan only trucks. Good luck w your project!

@@warrenfuller126 Yes, there is a separate video for the 88-98 master cylinder upgrade.

@@blainesimons4653 sorry, that’s just the way it turned out. I think you can see there was no edit. You can see how I used the 2 tools to get under the ring and begin prying it off. If that is not helpful keep looking, I’m sure there is a better video out there somewhere. Thanks for watching.

Thank you, I really enjoyed it when I had it. The only problem with a "multi-colored" floor is when you drop something. Small things like nut, bolts, washers, etc. can be difficult to spot. My current garage floor is done in grey. While not as attractive, it is much easier to spot things I drop. Both make it easy to clean up spills. Thanks again!

In many cases that is true. Depends on where you live. I'm out in the country, you have to plan your trips to the larger cities. If you do order online, Amazon works well because of their flexible return policy. But, that also means another trip to the city to make the return.

That can be a number of things....It's probably something small when connecting the harness wires to the pcm/fuse box. Trace down your coil wires to see where they ultimately splice down and connect to the fuse box. Also, double check all your grounds.

@Vcoldduck I probably could if I had a torch. I only used the hammer to tap the inner part of the bushing out...so?

you have a welder so I thought you probably had a torch. Great video you do fine work

@@Vcoldduck Thank you!

I did not realize that had happened. I have removed that pop up so the diagram is clearly visible. Check out the video and skip to the end and it is now clear. Thanks for letting me know. Good luck!

@@laurencevillegarage Thank you so much!

yes

The 2 big steps in accessing the inner piston and gland are the removing the 2 snap rings (one outer and then the inner ring). Once those are compressed and released you can access the gland and piston to replace the scrapers/seals inside. If you don't remove the outer then inner snap ring, you can't do anything.

It is possible. I would warn to never remove the old wiring/pcm until you get everything working the way you want. Otherwise, issues, like this may arise that can be more difficult to track down. Do you have an GM electrical manual for your truck? If not, check out ebay. That is where I got all mine. Great resource for all of our trucks wiring. Reasonable price too.

Thank you for your info and replying. I will do that. Which manual would you recommend?

@@jrocha383ws6 It would need to cover the '94 model year. Each year is a little bit different, with bigger changes starting in '96. There are a variety of manuals for each year so you would need the electrical wiring manual.I just did a search on ebay and find the prices are getting higher now that the trucks are gaining in popularity. Most were around $90-100 with some higher. I did find a nice one for $50 and if you don't mind the cover missing, $11.99 and $10.13 sh....The title you are looking for is: 1994 Chevrolet & GMC C / K Driveability, Emissions & Electrical Diagnosis Manual....good luck!

@@shugg0517 I would say it depends on what you want to do with the 5.3. Putting stock 317 heads on a 5.3 will lower the compression ratio close to one point. So, if you are planning on building a mild 5.3 the 317 heads would not be the way to go. If you plan on adding a turbo they could work. Chamber size is too large, would not be the best choice for a smaller motor.

Ok that's what I thought. About the 317 heads it would lower compression. Thanks for replying back love you channel. Keep up the good work.

I am not familiar with the BP harness, but either way, the mil light will need a ground. The factory harness has it grounded somewhere. That's why I always encourage people to not cut anything unless you have to. Keep all your factory grounds.

I'm not sure which "parts" you are referring to, but I am assuming you are referring to the lighter duty or 88-91 std cab calipers/rotors which are smaller than the HD parts. To upgrade to the HD parts, you need the correct spindle, caliper and rotor.

Thanks Jeremy, I'm not certain how the BP harness is configured, but, the one wire coming off my alternator goes to red pin 15 brown wire. Not sure if this helps or not.

What trans do are you using? Are you using the factory hydraulic slave? What throw out bearing?

All the information is in the description below the video, that includes part numbers.

Hello Gerardo!, I have been swamped with a variety of projects...in process of building new house, imported a couple of Japanese kei trucks, fixing stuff that breaks and just maintaining the family "fleet of vehicles" and equipment. Slowly building a 6.0...just time consuming to make videos of everything. Have grandchild #8 coming...a lot of things pulling at my time. Once I get caught up, I'll do more, but for now, just trying to keep my head above water! Thank you for reaching out!

@@laurencevillegarage @ good to hear that!! Did lt1 swap programming worked al rigt!???

If you are referring to the benchtop harness and VATS removal, yes, it did work. I removed the vats and rear O2 sensor communication from 6-7 pcms. I built an LS engine test run stand and verified the mods on the stand with that running 6.0 I'm working on.

@@laurencevillegarage @ o ok, cz i cant find the local tuner, and planning to send it to brendan, lt1swap

True, after I started taking it apart I could see the axle seals needed to be replaced. So, stripped it down anyway. If your seals are good, that would be faster.

I have not done this to a 4x4, however, Cunninghammachine.com, is where I sourced my brackets and list of parts to use for the swap. Check them out, they have what you need, but it is a different part than what I used.

This was about part 13 of a series on the '91...I'm not sure what "next" part you may be referring to...

Deleting the DTC removes that function or reading. The pcm will not recognize any data from that sensor. As if it were never there. It is eliminated from any calculations. No data, no light.

@@laurencevillegarage one more question...I'm having a vats issue it intermittantly triggers and won't start...its currently in that mode. can i flash with the bin file i modified from a copy i got when all was good that deletes the vats and it starts fine or will I have to fix the vats and get it running before changing the flash? hope this makes sense...lol

@@charlesosteen8323 If I am understanding you correctly, you should be able to use the program you saved to "over write" the existing settings.

Thanks and welcome!

Also, make sure you get an OEM sensor. I tried 2 aftermarket sensors before going for an OEM sensor and no CEL since.

You certainly have nothing to lose by trying every way possible to access that sensor. Also depends on how tall you are and your ability to get “on top” of it. I could not. Glad it worked for you.

@@aknovaman thank you, it can be done!

Almost looks easier than a S10 swap. Plenty of exhaust and under engine room.

@@aknovaman as far as fitment, it would compare more with the OBS trucks. Frame rails are about 28.5” wide AND straight..unlike the ObS trucks that become more narrow in front of the engine cradle. Fitting a low mount a/c is not difficult, on an OBS requires cutting into the frame just for clearance.

While I did not physically show the removal of the lines, at the 3:00 mark I do show the tool needed to remove the lines. Using the tool is very straight forward. Thank you for watching.

Welcome aboard! Thanks for subbing!

@@BrayanAlcocer-k6s I am in Sunset, Tx.

That is correct…

Mine is 45”x54”x20” without the casters. Look under the truck bed and see where any braces that might be in the way and measure. It doesn’t have to be exact, just buy wood that when you cut it that you make aa few cuts as possible and waste as little wood as possible.

Hello, I still have it. In fact I’m planning to do version 2.0. Details coming…

@@laurencevillegarage @ version 2???🤔🤔

@@gerardolopez5875yes, I’m considering putting in the 6.0, different transmission, 3.73 rear differential and maybe a Qa1 coil over suspension…

@@laurencevillegarage @ o ok! Looking for big power!! I did it on my 89 stepside , 6.0, runs nice!

Yes I do have several…5 to be exact!

You really need one of these. Huge help to keep stuff out of the way.

Side note, I paused the video after u pulled the fuel pump- to ask about being able to accomplish without removing bed/gas tank, and you answered my question a few seconds later lol. 🎉

Removing the driver side hanger with the gas tank and bed in place may be doable, but removing the bed, or at least raising the bed out of the way would make it way easier to do and take less time to complete. The gas tank is the same way...removing/dropping the gas tank makes the project much easier. There are connections and bolt access inside the frame rail that would be really tough to do otherwise. It's one of those projects that seems like it adds extra time/effort for what little you are trying to do, but, that trying to do the hanger with both in place will be a lot tougher to do. Bottom line, it can probably be done, but I wouldn't even try it.

@@rockydavis7448 harbor freight press

While I am able to remove the VATS and rear O2 sensors, that's where I draw the line. I am not familiar with the finer details of the tune like you want. I would suggest a tuner that can ride in your truck with you and dial it in exactly the way you want. It will be more expensive, but will give you more of what you want. Thanks for the opportunity.

Yes you can change shift points. You can also Google search for the Bluecat trans tuning tool to help you set up your tables. You can enter your trans type, gear ratio and tire size. And it will give you an idea on what to set your shift tables at.

Double check this info out to make sure it is correct for your year Wrangler....Mopar Fluid Temperature Sensor 68164627AA

@laurencevillegarage thanks I went to Napa, Autozone, and Advance, and all 3 only showed the one you showed to be oil temp sensor for a 2012.

@@ThisTimeIsDifferent309I believe there was a change in 2014. Mopar shows this number and style for 14-24.

Glad it was helpful!