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Now you know that's your glue gun 😂

I know it's trivial but cross slide is going across bed of lathe. Top slide or compound slide is the one your changing angles with. If things are moving around, first, adjust gib strips then, find the saddle lock . If you don't have one, make one It would have been a more rigid set up if you had cut outer angle first. Centre drill is really for 60 degree centre, for drilling, a short 'spotting drill' should be used but very few people actually use them (me included) At least your shop is closer to reality of hobby shop where you want to get something done and may have limited time - BSA, (bits stuck anywhere)

Hi! Might sound like a no-brainer, but are the TRACKS on which aluminum windows slide ALSO aluminum? My windows are leaking rainwater,, and a window specialist told me to drill a few extra holes on the other side of the track as extra weep holes through which rain can escape. Bottom line is, I wanna use the right drill bit for this metal Thanks in advance!

They should race to see which can cut grass faster. If they just race on pavement without blades, they're not lawnmowers

Spring loaded center's are great for tapping on the lathe.

Mowers are fun

Very nice work sir

Nice build. Looks like a fun time racing.

So I'm going to be working with steel do you know if the wires would hold up

I have one of these, picked up second hand at PA at too wicked a deal to turn down, I did realize the previous owner had re-welded the joint where the dumping strut meets the frame, (must of broke for them) they were by no means good re-welds and re-broke for me, but being a good welder I furbished the old weld up and been working great ever since. I do find it difficult at times to get into all gears smoothly and have to whack the handle a bit but otherwise overall happy with the unit, carried very close to the 660lb or otherwise topped up with solid boulders. I too give it a 4-5 rating.

For finding the edge with an end mill I measure the paper thickness and then I manually rotate the spindle. When the cutting edge gets close I start moving the paper back and forth till it barely touches. Note the location and check all the flutes for runout, move over the paper thickness and I routinely get the edge within less than 0.0005”.

Been using my cutter grinder a lot since we last commented a bit over a year ago. However, as i get more proficient i want to use more grinding wheels and i only have 2 hubs for the taper side and one for straight shank side. The straight shank side was easy i made a bunch of adapters between centers and now have 4 or 5 I can use for different wheels. The taper side is an issue, i believe it is 4°, but it is definitely a non-standard taper. Did you ever make more hub arbors and know anymore detail in what the taper is (angle, in/foot, mm/meter, etc)? Thank you! Saw your write up in HSM this month, crushed it!

ayyy Nice clear explanation and review.

I've warrantied a couple different tools that my brother had in his collection (i inherited after his passing) Filed a claim on them separately for different issues . Gerber/Fiskars sent out brand new multitools for each claim! Was able to keep the broken multitools for parts 😎

Where can get to buy it

Super 77 is the wrong product, this will melt XPS foam. You need Super 78 for this application.

I think you need to make your processes more easy by using induction heater to heat both axles and you need a small flywheel and clutch to help you for this process you don't need a big flywheel because the heate is already made by the induction heater but the flywheel inertia will finish the work when you get a certain temperature you disengage the clutch and start pushing the axles to join them.just make sure don't use your hand and start experimenting with small shaft

"Princess Auto" hello fellow Canadian. Great video.

my edge finder is awaiting repair. mmmm... forgot to change into low... wobbler to the rescue. i guess if i dug out teh old touch probe its battery will have died...

For the z, dont turn the spindle on. Just lower till it grips your feeler gauge or paper. Or spin it counter clockwise by hand until it barely scores the surface

Just came across you, now thats an awesome pour! An awful lot of work but what a result!

U using dowel pin size...mm size?

I put a 4mm dowel in the collet, colour it with a dark Sharpie then move it towards the edge whilst it’s running until the ink starts to wear off, zero it on the DRO, lift it up and move it a further 2mm and zero it again so my centre is above the edge. Seems to be accurate to 0.01mm.

try filling from the bottom up, with vents on top.

I was wondering why you don't put the coating on the back of the foam cast ? Does it help thanks

Thats a very high laundry line😅

started watching for the techniques, now I'm intrigued by what you're making. I'm retired FF and saw the IAFF, what are those? They look really cool.

As long as you are the person who is aware of the safety risks then it is only your fault but just turning spindle by hand against a known diameter of a pin or a certain gauge block would be a better way than the paper trick as not all paper is always a constant thickness all the time love the videos

4 holes black center edge finger video

Great video brother, Lots of good info and tips. Thanks for sharing with the community. 😎😎⛏⛏🔥🔥

Nice job🎉

🎉🎉🎉 Have you tried usin a bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol in the plaster. about 10% of the total water. It may help with air bubbles. Or about 15-20% of 70% isopropyl alcohol. I guess more alcohol would only make the plaster dry faster. The lower surface tension of alcohol should reduce the amount of bubbles in the plaster. Id try it with small amounts first, and use more alcohol in place of water in the plaster. Until the dry time and surface tension is ideal!🎉🎉🎉🎉

This seems like a great idea. I am tall and have a bad back. I hate bending to use my lathe. I had thought about using a big piece of tubing to rase it but was worried about introducing vibration.

Would look cool if you machined the surface or at least the letters

at 17:00 what is getting the grooves? It is repeated pressing (forging) by ridges on that rotating tool ? The diameter of job need to be precise so that whole number of ridges make the perimeter

Can you shorten my shift shaft for me

Jealous of your lathe brake haha, i have to always think so far ahead for everything i do

I teach the paper trick with my new students, who are totally green, BUT i use a bit of spit and stick a postage sized piece to the jaw. Plus I hand spin the cutter with it in nuetral. Personally I run the cutter but thats not a good idea with first timers. The accuracy could be questioned versus more sophisticated special tools but they may not always be available wheras paper is always there. Great video, going to let the students watch it next lesson to show all the other ways you used.

7:47 user opts for tattooed finger ring, genius! Thanks for your work on your channel.

For many years I just used a 1/4" piece of silver steel in a drill chuck.....OK so it probably will not be that accurate but good enough and quick for most work.

Liked the comment about the man who was always talking. The Lord gave us two ears and one mouth for a reason! You're supposed to listen twice as much as you talk!😉

I tried these methods and now I am always on edge

Nice

Great application for a sand cast part. I’ll be casting wheels n knobs on saturday

Hello want to be trained on how to use oxygen and acetylene CNC flame cutting machine

Mom told me no one ever learned anything with their mouth open!😂

For paper touch off, use a Zig-Zag with a little oil to hold it in place. Works like a champ. The Zig-Zags in the white pack are 0.001" thick quite consistently.

Consistency of gravy. 👍

Can you show a video of one being put back on?

Thanks