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Thank you, I'm glad you enjoy them.

Hi, Its good you found the problem, I assume the spring are getting coil bound. You can remove the valve spring without taking the head off. It is done by putting and keeping air pressure in the cylinder via the spark plug hole. This is when the cylinder is on TDC on Compression. Then you can compress the valve spring and remove it. There are various tools to do this here is a link is to a cheap one , give you an idea of what you need. www.harborfreight.com/overhead-valve-spring-compressor-59343.html The air pressure stops the valve going into the Combustion chamber, You can use a long piece of string fed in to the plug hole with the piston on BDC and then turn the engine towards TDC compression till it holds the valves but the air is easier. (leave the end of the string hanging out the plug hole so you can reverse the engine and pull it out when finished.) If the machine shop has fitted valve seats, they may have set them to far into the combustion Chamber causing the problem with the spring length, just a thought. James

@@Dr-Doolincom Hello James. Thank you for getting back to me. The only answer can be coil bound springs. This morning, I called the machine shop and asked him what springs he used. He said he purchase the Moss Motors Spring kit. That is for a 1974. The older models '72 and older used a single spring, I think. He asked about the cam, and I assured him it was stock and not a high lift. Remember that this car ran fine before with the old springs, so that isn't it. The machine shop owner, very smart guy, now wants the head off so he can inspect the spring heights. That means I have to pull it off again and take it to him, an hour away. I don't mind much. After I saw your bent push rods, I ordered a stock set of them and a new head gasket. I placed a long straight edge over all the valves, and they are all the same height. I've removed valve springs using compressed air in the cylinders before. But this time we are doing the work at my friend's house, not in my shop, so we don't have a compressor. Mine is too big to move. Moss Motors sells just inner springs #831-037. I wonder if those inner springs are different than the ones in the full kit #831-038. When the springs come off, we will know what we're dealing with. We pull off the head this Thursday and take it up on Friday. I'll let you know how it goes. Many thanks, Ken

@@Dr-Doolincom Hi James, Correction; we took the head into the shop yesterday and they disassembled it and measured the springs. We previously measured the cam lift x 1.47= .365". Then they measured the inner coils, and they were fine. It would have taken another .200" to coil bind. We also checked the valve guides, and they are cast iron and installed correctly not blocking the intake ports. The valve job was professionally done, and it checked out perfect. At least we eliminated that fear. The other thing we noticed was that the rear 3 cylinders were wet on the exhaust ports. This points to the rear carburetor. All carb and ignition tuning were done previously to the head rebuild so that's not it. It ran well before. Now we are left with that rear carb causing trouble. It seems to be running rich, and it will be looked into. They are Stromberg's and have been carefully rebuilt and were running well for 3 months. However, there is something wrong and we will find it when we put the head back on. Waiting for gaskets and a new set of push rods to go with the rebuilt rocker shaft. The fun never ends. I will let you know what the Demon is when we find it.

Last but not least, I decided to test out the Pertronix module in the distributor. First I replace the coil, then I replaced the Pertornix with a stock points, condensor and ballast resistor. Presto, it now runs like a champ. Curse you Pertornix.

@@novakenss At least you found the problem. Also you know you will not have a problem with the top end of the engine or compression. james

Hi, Your axle will be different to the one shown here. This is a Tube type axle, the type on your Sprite is a Banjo type. I am planning to make a video covering that type, but that unfortunately is no help to you at the moment. James

Hi Ken, we have changed the way of recording our sound, and this video was made quite a while ago. Unfortunately to change the sound on completed uploaded video is not really practical and yet the sound for us is the most difficult part to get right. If I just sat at a desk and talked it would be a lot easier. The body mikes don't work well either. Mixing voice over and actual speech recording brings a whole set of other problems. Though I do find that listening to any recordings with earbuds intensifies the lows and highs. James

Hi Joe, I tend to agree James

We are changing to more video production as we actually enjoy making them. James

I think the main problem was the Stromberg combination manifold would have a simple problem turn into a large one. If the thermostat was removed or stayed open the choke remained on too long, putting to much Gas into the Cat, causing it to prematurely block and overheat. Same if the choke was not adjusted correctly. they always seemed to be running rich for various reasons. I think overall it was an attempt to keep the Stromberg alive and in use for a few more years in the advent of fuel injection, and of course sales were being affected because ever stricter pollution controls in BLMC's biggest market California. The fix was easy, just do what you did, change it out for a set of SU or a Weber. James

Getting the Hub off a tapered shaft is usually difficult. There are cases where they come off as they are suppose to but not often. It is better if you take the Shaft out of the Axle as it will make things easier. The problem you will have if you take the Axle to a shop to press it out is the Churchill Tool you need to mount to break the Hub and Shaft apart. I know you have made a Churchill tool, but this is what goes wrong and you need to be aware of. First the Churchill tool if I am not mistaken is bolted onto the wheel studs, the tool has an thick base to sit flush against the Hub flange. When pressure is put on the shaft end the bolts take all the torque The thickness of the tool against the flange is to prevent the Flange from distorting. It must fit absolutely flush, with the nuts on the studs tightened. If the tool is weak (to thin) in this area the flange and tool will distort when pressure is applied. That will render your hub useless. The Churchill tool seems overkill but that is what is needed. The second problem is the threaded end of the Shaft. If a regular nut is used, the pressure is on the threads, the amount of pressure possibly required to separate the Shaft from the Hub will distort the end of the shaft and damage the thread. More than likely you will not be able to remove the nut afterwards. The nut requires a shoulder that sits on the end of the shaft up to the Taper so the pressure is on the shaft shoulder not the threads. The nut is to act as a guide and support to this section, not to take any direct pressure. I have seen up to 50 tons put on these to get them to separate, I would use heat as an absolute total last resort, as if it does not then come apart it never will once it cools. If thing go well it will break apart with less pressure. As little as a couple of tons. Make sure you have spares before you venture forward with this. Hopefully used if you can find them, as new will cost you over $700.00 us. Make sure on reassembly the Shaft and Hub have no burrs or marks on the surface of the taper or on the Keyway as this can cause the difficulty if they have to come apart again. The person doing the work must understand how easy it is to trash everything. This job can be very anticlimactic expecting the worst and yet it comes apart easily, which I hope it does for you. James

Thanks, glad you enjoy them. james

Hi Frank, I have now put that on my list of "videos of interest" both the Triumph boxes and the overdrives. Thank you for the suggestions

Your welcome,

Hi Phil, I just use wheel bearing grease, it has the right properties for high pressure contacts and a good heat range. James

Hi, yes it should work ok,, but the problem at the moment the LED sensor and the slotted disc they are no longr available. I suggested a replacement that I think will work with the orginal timing rotor/disc on another inquiry (erhere1) but I am looking for something that will work as a replacement sensor using the original timing rotor as well. Hopefully "erhere1" will let me know if it works for him. If your XJS is fuel injected the sensor to trigger that system is below the ignition sensor and does not need a signal from the ignition for timing as far as I know.

Hi, Rather than try and make disc, and still have a problem finding an LED square wave sensor. I would suggest take a look at part number PNX-1662LS at www.summitracing.com/ it is a trigger I think you will be able to fit in the Distributor. It does not require a magnetized piece in the disc to activate the sensor. They are made to work with the lobe in the Distributor, a not magnetized piece. So I am thinking the original disc will work. As it is not magnetized. Worth a try as its only $200. If you try it let me know how you go on. James

Hi Paul? I am going to assume you have tested the Battery for voltage and the Alternator for output, along with the Rectifier (which is a separate unit) if the Alternator is proven to be at fault then, to me you have two choices. Find a Rebuilt unit (Mossmotors.com part number 851526) or get a conversion to a later unit (www.sngbarratt.com part SBS1064/9 which is 110 amp or SBS1064/9U a 240 amp unit. To find the internal parts and repair the Alternator yourself for most people is a bit impractical. Thanks, James

Hi James, yes battery and regulator are ok, the alternator is down on amps, I would like to have the blocks or diodes at hand if I pull the alternator from the car.@@Dr-Doolincom

Hi Andy, Yes, usually you see that problem of the carbon burnt out when you look inside the cap, I had a look and saw no problem. Did it so quick as part of the job it got missed on the video. The Rotor by the way measured against the new one was visibly shorter, but your right the carbon contact to the rotor works as hard as the rotor, but with no arc but they can and do, have contact problems. Thanks, James

Hi Andrew I would suggest trying a G-clamp rather than bashing them. Or if your really short of room a couple of flat plates with bolts either side. James

@@Dr-Doolincom Thank you. 🙂

Actually your wrong, this car sees regular use and mileage. That in fact is the only reason I agree to do service or repairs on it, is because it is constantly driven. It does approx. 10,000 to 15,000 ml a year between me seeing the car. (Two years since the last time) Not bad for a 50 yr old performance car. The only time it is parked is when there is snow. James

I was just kidding, I know nothing about this car , over the years I have seen a few n they are really awesome looking , the older v12 are best in my unprofessional opinion

I tend to agree, the E-Types and the Mk2 Jags are the only ones I will repair. Mainly because with the sedans the repair expense is now more than the cars are worth. Though the problem now is that the E-Types are being driven "carefully" rather than as a sports car. This customer is a bit of a Hooligan and the Jaguars do like to be run quick. Trouble is it means your speeding not just a bit but a lot. Normal driving these V-12 do 80 mph in third, not even close to red-line. Shifting at 2,000 rpm does them no good at all. Hence a lot of fouled plugs and rough idle and frequent repairs. So in a way your right, but not really if you see what I mean. James

​@@Dr-DoolincomI know it sounds looney but id rather have the XJS, despite being slower and dreadfully unreliable

Hi Paul, Yes, I use them on MGB as well. The complete cap type that go over the entire end of the guide, I worry It will stop to much oil, and not lube the guide at all. Which is why I tend to use Brass guides as they are self lubricating but only to a point of course. Last thing I need is sticking valves. Which is usually the main cause of bent pushrods due to them coming out of place. That was not the cause on this engine though. I am posting a video shortly on this engines problems. James

Incredible work Dr. D. Love watching your videos. I have a 1972 TR6. Wish I lived closer to you.

Correct, but the car was driven to my workshop. Then driven away again, I believe to be sold.

Hi Paul The parts are from www.goodparts.com I am just finishing a video fitting them to the engine for a customer. James