I truly appreciate all the comments, concerns and solutions you all have provided. Would love if you could share this in anyway to spread more awareness and knowledge. Tesla should do something about this absolutely
Man that sucks for all of us. If the bottom 20 % of the battery is unusable owners have been sold a lie on range. This repair should have been covered under warranty IMO.
“User cost”?! Even if you took the battery down to 0%, it shouldn’t then fry or damage any part. The design of the car should not allow such a problem.
I know this isn’t what you wanted to hear, but I would’ve lawyered up, A car being under 10% or even under 5% shouldn’t warrant a complete failure in the battery. That’s not how things work. If my phone died and I brought it to Apple and they said well, it’s your fault it died. All hell would break loose.
I’d check the warranty exceptions. I’ve seen so many RUclips’s drive to 0% or 1% and have no issues and would expect the technology to ensure it does not cost US$220 to fix just because you went under 20%. I’d also escalate this. On another note, I wish I were as nice a person as you. You seem awesome
Going below 20% is clearly not an issue here. The issue here is that both batteries died at the same time which is a rare occasion. However, that is still on Tesla, as it just shows the flaw in their design which is why Tesla should take full responsibility for it.
Does it warn you in the owners manual to not let the car go below 20% I don't think so, put the bill on a credit card stop payment and dispute the whole matter with Tesla, this is so rare they don't want to pay for it. You shouldn't pay for it either, Good luck, Happy New Year anyway.
As an owner of a Model Y what bothers me in all this is the fact these vehicles will navigate you to charging stations and even to your destination with 10% battery life. So I'm the user following directions. If they knew this could be potentially be an issue, an expensive one, why not inform the owners or have the navigation instruct users to top off from a higher battery percentage?
Such a scary and nerve racking experience. I appreciate it man. I try to be that way when life doesn’t go as planned. Calm and collected is the best way to operate
The below 10% thing makes no sense. When I travel long distances it is normal for the car to route me to a supercharger to location at or below 10%. Unless you're saying you've run the car to 0% and kept going which I've seen RUclipsrs do. I typically won't let my car get below 20%. But back to my original question. How low did you run your car to. I noticed when you spoke to your girl it was mentioned she runs her phone down to empty.
I do the same thing as you. In this situation I drove the car to 2% and it sat for about an hour then while in route to a charger the car drastically dropped to 0 then shortly after completely shutdown
@@TessiVybz If this is what happened to you, then it is not your fault and you should escalate the case. This was a normal use and any car malfunction under normal driving should be covered by Tesla warranty. It is really unacceptable that Tesla asked you to pay for this
Had to subscribe just bc of this video. Really appreciate you documenting everything for us and informing us from start to finish. You seem real cool and may God bless you and ya fam onward. Hope you can get that $$$ back in the future w RUclips bro. Please make more videos! From a fan down in San Diego, be easy !
You have probably saved a lot of people a lot of money, thank you for the video. I agree with what most of the coments say no way should you have to pay, i often hear you should keep your battery between 20% and 80% but i didn't know it is imperative. Thanks again. I have subscribed to your channel hopefully it will help a little bit.
That right there was the main reason for me creating this video. So glad it can help the people out there. Let’s say I learned a lot through this process. I appreciate you subscribing
In other cars the access to lower and upper battery charge level is restricted physically, so you cannot damage the battery or anything related to it even if you wanted, but that comes with a price of significantly reduced overal car range. So if Tesla allows to use the full battery range, then recommends to use only 20% to 80% and finally blames the user for any faults which happen in ranges 80%, but still counts all the extra range one gets in those charge levels (which should account for 40% of total range), then I call it cheating and shady practices. No surprise then that other BEV manufacturers have hard time beating Tesla on range when Tesla cheat like that.
That’s BS. When you run out of gas in an ICE car, you don’t fry anything. Yes, it’s not great for the fuel pump, but it doesn’t destroy anything. What I’ve learned from this video and others is to keep your vehicle stock when it’s under warranty.
Never mod a car under warranty. Don’t minimize this. Perhaps the LV did have a phantom drain from these mods. In return it discharged the HV at the wrong moment as it is system critical. Remember that SoC is always a guess. Batteries only talk voltage. As the curve drops, the software calculates remaining energy.
Neither a 0% state of charge traction battery or dead 12/15.5V low voltage battery has anything to do with a failed PCS board. If the vehicle is within the 50K miles/4 year warranty period the PCS should be covered under warranty. I am not sure if the low voltage battery is maintained when the HV traction battery drops below 20%? or is maintained until the HV battery reaches 0%? Point is the PCS broke and one of its functions is to supply power to the low voltage buss and maintain the charge level of the low voltage battery.
I knew it! When I heard “Buena Park” I bought my car there a week and I have a problem with the car then they asked me to go to other dealer to get it fixed… their service is bad… it’s either they are lazy or don’t care at all. We should all complain because they are not gonna help everyone if they can get away sending people away. You should’ve not paid them. Key giveaway was “it only happened 2 times, you and someone so that means they should cover it because it’s not your fault. “ technical issues” I’d say get your $2200… Buena Park wil only fix your car if they can get money from you. My friend had to pay them but I didn’t pay them so they sent me to other dealers. You should make a big deal about this so people will see how bad those people at Buena Park: if I only have big followers I will be talking about them. Please make a video about them. I have everything recorded text and messages back and forth with them: if you need a back up
The issue with LV battery is known issue. If it dies suddenly, you can pop open frunk using emergency port on front(using a 9v cell!), disconnect and charge with a 12v auto charger(Applies only to Lead Acid LV battery, could cause 🔥 in case of fully depleted Li-ion LV ). You could avoid towing, and take to sevice center without issues. Seems like a poor design issue and should be fully covered under warranty. There is no way sentry mode caused it, since it will be auto disabled under 20%. The issue is running down HV battery to 0%, and letting it in that state for a while. Even in such a case, PCS fault should be fully covered(glad the HV battery did not go dead!). Running HV battery frequently to less than 20%, will definitely reduce full charge range and cycle life drastically. I do suspect, there is more to this incident, than, what is reported. Who will keep their charge down in single digits? Normally, there is a system warning, when it reaches single digit, about HV battery not able to charge if depleted. Looks like, there was some other accessory that was directly connected to the PCS LV side, bypassing any e-fuse deactivation, which is normally fine with a functioning LV battery and SOC in double digits. Also, this "will" not fry the PCS, other than disable the vehicle. Other likely scenario is trying to jump charge LV, when the HV is fully depleted(without attempting to bring back HV to a stable SOC), resulting in a backfeed and damage of PCS. It is a likely situation, the Tesla mobile service did a sloppy job of not charging HV first, before reconnecting a fully charged LV battery🤞(Note: Any attempts to recharge a fully depleted LV will result in 🔥). The last scenario deserves a full refund on PCS replacement, EDIT:Seems to be the case, since the Car started(booted up display), but could not charge LV battery. Get back your hard earned 💵 END EDIT. In the end, I am just trying to identify likely scenario's and not specifically blaming anyone, so that we could avoid a repeat of this incident with other Tesla vehicles.❤️👍
@@n00bprof82 Also, you would never attempt charging a fully depleted Li-ion LV, even after disconnecting, will cause fire and could explode. The disconnect charging applies only to Lead Acid LV battery only. Only under severe collision or other critical situation/malfunction, the HV battery will disconnect(thru pyro fuse). In those situations, try disconnecting LV before getting the vehicle towed for repair. It might prevent the LV battery draining itself.
So Tesla service is saying you shouldn't drive it below 20% or you are liable for potential damages with the battery? On a road trip you don't want to charge it more than 80% just because that last 20% takes so long to charge. Then you have natural battery degradation and reduced range when driving in cold weather and/or towing. To top it off Tesla is facing a class action lawsuit for exaggerated EV range and rarely if ever meeting EPA estimates. To all the Tesla owners out there, i admire your resilience.
Where does ut state un the warranty that you are responsible for any fault when the car is below 20%? Also that would mean that the range is 20% less than what they state.... Also they have a buffer on the hv battery so what they told you is BS
That’s crazy! It should be a warranty issue. Never heard that explanation before. I used to have a 2018 LRRWD Model 3 and had a BMS issue caused by a tire shop not using protectivePucks which I provided them and that cost was around 2k but tire shop paid for the damage thank god. I just upgraded to a 2023 Model X and it’s amazing! Like you I’ll never own another car.
That is for sure should be covered by Tesla. If there is a flawed design which allows frying expensive equipment in the car when the car is low on charge then it is the manufacturer who should fix it as a user has nothing to do with this. If the car is allowed to be used at below 20% charge level, that means all user actions are justified and any fried components should be covered by Tesla if something goes wrong, or Tesla should disable access to that charge level below 20% if they think that using car in such state could start frying components worth $2200 and will also leave you stranded for multiple days.
Ha! When I had a tire puncture, I changed it myself without pucks and did not damage anything at all, saved me a bunch of frustration. (Still took four hours for Discount Tire to change the tire and charge me $411).
EV manufacturers are targeting women, young and old, because their an easy sell. They don't realize the dangers of Lithium batteries or the long run cost of operation
I would be pissed if my car was under warranty and they tried to pass the cost on to me. This is typical dealer nonsense. Car is covered under warranty from 0 to 100% charge.
Great video. Thank you for the tips and glad you are blessed and got it fixed. I too am a Tesla fan boy especially when I went on the model 3 performance test drive. So fun to drive, acceleration was unworldly , so planted to the pavement. I enjoy the minimalism and the tech. As soon as Highland performance comes to Phoenix I'm getting it!!! It's so close to being announced I just want it already 😅😅😅 Aaron
Wow Tesla really played with that “user error conclusion” I think they saw your modification and automatically said “user error”. Knowing it’s Tesla faulty system plus you was under warranty. This could have happened to any owner. My question is what insurance you have where you had to physically use their applications for the rims & any update with that process? Also the towing services was from Tesla road side assistance?
That’s a possibility for sure. A lot was learned here. The first tow I got from the side of the road to a supercharger was via Tesla roadside, and was the only tow guy that knew what to do. My second tow from the supercharger to home was through my insurance and that’s the one who damaged my rims. A claim has been made so I’m just going through the motions of getting estimates approved
Surprised there were no warning signs saying the 12 volt battery was going defective before the vehicle completely shut down. Thanks for this entire video and what you went through.
Enjoying your videos i bought a 2023 model y long rand December 31, 2023 after the fact I've been doing a lot of research and adding mods. I just want to know how many times did you let your battery go under 20% to cause this problem?
I don't feel comfortable going below 20% with my 2023 MYLR, because I am a newbie and have not yet gained confidence in the projected range. But if you're not suppose to go below 20% why does the Tesla navigation routing always select supercharger stops along a route where the SOC is below 20%, sometimes with say 8-9% SOC upon arriving at the supercharger. I typically override those chosen stops when tweaking my route if I can, or I charge longer than stated in the navigation route at each charger. For example, if I am at a 22% SOC and it says I can depart once I reach 35%, and I will then arrive at the next charger with 14%, I will override by charging an extra 10-15% which results in a charger arrival SOC of 24%-29%. So I think TESLA programmers/TESLA service/TESLA needs to be more consistent in their advice and app/in-car navigation where it doesn't have you arrive at chargers with under 20% if that is a thing. And my experience so far, 30 days, depending on weather conditions and battery pack temp, etc I have sees the stated arrival SOC drop precipitously during the initial part of my route. After a while the SOC will level off and the use of power will be more consistent. And sometimes the arrival SOC even goes up by a little, although this happens far less frequently. I heard that this may be a result of my MYLR being so new and my not having taken the SOC from low to high enough times for the vehicle's computer predictions to be accurate. Still, I continue to tweak my arrival SOC by charging more or choosing another charger than the suggested one so that I will arrive with 20-30% SOC, just in case something unexpected happens during the drive, and I use an extra 10%. If this is not what I should be doing, I would appreciate any advice or point me to a document that states clearly the rules of charging. Thanks! And thanks for this video!!!
Safety is the issue, you can run the battery to zero, but you take a chance it won't recharge and need to be towed to a service center. Except in the future, you can get a Cybertruck to recharge you on the road.
You can drive it down to zero (there are 4.2% usable reserve beyond 0%) if you arrive at a charging destination. Do not let it stand around with very low SoC! That's why the car says "please charge" when it drops below 7%. The reason the projected SoC is changing during the drive (besides driving style) is because the navigation system is adjusting for weather and traffic conditions. You can look up how your actual driving differs from the projection in the trip tab of the consumption screen. You are doing nothing wrong. If the extra 10% give you peace of mind then go for it. There are countless studies on battery SOH if you really want to dig deeper. "State of health estimation of cycle aged large format lithium-ion cells based on partial charging" - Journal Of Energy Storage Nr. 46 2022 The thing is that they can never reflect how EV batteries are used in the real world. Our charging, discharging, ageing and thermal cycles are vastly different from what those studies can work with. Additionally, our battery packs are made out of a lot more things than just plain battery cells. I'd say every rule you need to know about, is in the Owner's Manual.
Awesome video. I have the same year and model as you. This info was extremely helpful. I will be sharing your video with my Tesla Service Mgr for more details. Again thanks and keep up the great work you do!
@@TessiVybz Escalate the case. Maybe try to find organizations which protect consumers from shady car manufacturer practices which may help in this case
On my early 2023 MY LR the 16 volt lithium ion battery up and died twice before and after repair. First time I was told the High voltage controller was replaced. Second time I was told the circuit breaker X....etc wasn't fully seated. Thankfully I got my money back on that model Y and now I have a new Model Y Performance although its still a Fremont build like the previous one so Im hoping it won't be defective.
unlike some of you I care about the dash cam working, so I NEVER let it drop below 25% its always ways charged up before it even hits and most times I only charge once a week as its about 40 to 30% when I do. never let it drop below 25%
If you installed the latest holiday software update, many people reported an issue with 12v battery, the latest software update fixed the problem. If that's the problem at all !
I’m thinking apartment life had you normally keeping the charge low…and that finally caught up with you. Not enough information. Glad all turned out well.
I have honestly been thinking of getting rid of my Tesla because I’m not going to be in a financial position where Tesla will throw me a bill for over $2k when the car is supposed to be under warranty . Its like a dealership telling you that your car wont be covered under warranty because you were running your car on a 1/4 tank .
What happens if you own a tesla in a country where there isnt a tesla service center? Like i have one that i ordered to a small island on the Caribbean but there isnt a main tesla so far i have had no issues but man
Sorry that happened to you. But I think I would’ve pushed back on the 10% BS… The car should be covered until you hit 0% in my opinion. Then yes, that would be “user error” but anything above should be covered by Tesla, seriously!! I wish you’d go back to them and fight this point to set precedence for the rest of us. Thanks for your great beautiful videos👍🏻
Appreciate the tips and hope the car is doing well since then, sucks you really have to raise hell and fight them to get them to do the right thing an honor warranty, they must be trained to try to create excuses to weisel out of offering warranty repairs. Just like that Cybertruck guy who had coolant leaking when he drove for less than 5 minutes and they tried to tell him it wasn't covered under warranty until he raised hell. Really want a Tesla...but behavior like this is why im so hesitant to pull the trigger.
All out of pocket cost sucks and Tesla's lack of communication is still a problem. You are lucky they gave you a loaners. Keep in mind that batteries become unpredictable at a low state of charge. The math to calculate true 0% is not perfect and can cause unpredictable damage. It's not as easy as calculating howmuchy gallons of fuel are left in the tank. That's why we need to follow the warnings. A larger battery buffer would probably help in these situations. 🤷♂️
Yes I agree. Their communication and service is not up to par at all. Granted, all the service people were kind and nice, but I do feel like I was robbed here.
22:01 wait they dont' offer you free towing at tesla in America? man it really sucks to live in he U.S. then, free towing is offered by Tesla in Australia.
The entire explanation is total BS to be honest. This was 100% a warranty issue. My Model S is currently at the SC and has been there since a few days before Thanksgiving. The entire situation has been an absolute sh$% show from the start!!! I had a large drive unit failure. 1st issue was no loaner given. I've had my car at the SC multiple times for small issues and was always given a loaner....while out of warranty. This time they told me they no longer give loaners to ANY owners out of warranty. 2 days later my sister took her Model S to the same exact SC, was also out of warranty, and was given a loaner immediately, no questions asked. She lives 10 min from the SC....i live 45 min away. When I called to inquire what was up with that they stuttered and stammered, they claimed the rules had JUST been changed!? They then asked when I could come pick up my loaner!! The cost estimate has gone from $6200...to $6500...to $7400....to $8500...to $9400. They're trying to replace almost the entire rear suspension now as they claim all of the bolts in the rear suspension are rusty, they're snapping them off as they remove them. They're heating the broken bolts to remove them and in the process they're destroying all of the rubber bushings. They don't replace the bushings, they replace the entire suspension piece. Weeks ago they claimed they had ALL of the parts to complete the repair...but then my completion time kept getting pushed out with nutty excuses. This went on for weeks. It was supposed to be ready last Thursday and I got a call on that day and was finally given the truth....they hadn't TOUCHED my car in weeks!!! They claim they're short on technicians!!! When I went into the SC just after Thanksgiving to pick up the loaner I asked to see these rusty bolts. My car was on a lift, the rear cradle that holds everything (drive unit, suspension, etc) was out of the car. So my car has been sitting up in the air for a month now. I'm now worried about the HV battery as it sits up in the air. The app has been showing the car in service mode, sitting at 54% SOC, for a month now. I KNOW they're NOT charging it and my gut tells me that it's been sitting on the lift @ 0% SOC this entire time!!! There's sooo much more to the situation, I just can't type out 6 pages to run through it all. I'm beyond disappointed in the situation! If I pick up my car and the HV battery has been screwed up from their negligence, and they attempt to make ME pay for a new HV battery I'm going to lose it!!!
That is not pretty and such shady practices can only be stopped by right to repair and 3rd party services which can properly fix cars without any BS. Now the only place to repair the car is basically Tesla, so as a monopolist they can do whatever they want and get away with it. Regarding the HV battery, then if it is at ~50% SoC, then it is the best place for the battery to be stored at. Since they disassembled car partly that would also mean that the HV battery is disconnected and it should not drain fast. Even when the car is fully operational with battery connected and everything Tesla claim that one can expect up to 1% discharge per day, so you would be good for several months. However, I would be more worried about the little 12-16V battery
@@dkostasx ....I hope you're correct. I hope they've disconnected the HV battery. The car was dropped off on 11/21 and was at 60% SOC at drop off. It was put into service mode on 11/22 and has shown 54% since that day. If your correct and the expected rate of loss IF the HV battery was disconnected is 1% daily....then it should be sitting @ ~ 19% today. If you're off just a tiny bit, and it's actually 2% or more daily, then my car is sitting on that lift @ 0%. I'm also worried about the 12 volt....but that's a couple hundred dollars to deal with, not $15k. Your 3rd party comments are accurate. Tesla has everyone by the neck right now. I live in the Phoenix area and have access to Gruber Motors, one of the few 3rd party facilities in the country. They were my 1st call when Tesla told me that coolant was leaking into the drive unit (a known issue with the large drive units. It was already replaced just before the warranty expired last year....they say THAT replacements coverage expired when the cars warranty did. Because I'm paying for this one out of pocket it comes with a 4yr 50k warranty. Another fact that pisses me off). Gruber would have charged me just under $6k to replace the drive unit....with a used one they sourced from a salvage Tesla...that'd have the SAME issue at some point...but would have ZERO warranty. Tesla will not sell them a new drive unit. I could source a drive unit myself and Gruber would've installed for $800. I found 1 for $3500 shipped. But again, that option would've cost me ~ $4300 all in for a used unit with ZERO warranty. So I went ahead with Tesla as the plan WAS to sell my car in 2024 and buy a new Model 3. The warranty seemed to be worth it @ $6200 for the Tesla option. The $ I had set aside for the new car purchase is now going into my old S. I'm basically lighting it on fire, I'll NEVER see that money again. I'm not comfortable keeping my 2014 any longer then I have to now as the HV battery will be the next thing to go. Crummy situation on all fronts!!
You have a great attitude I’ll give you that. I still think they should’ve covered your issue under warranty. On road trips the car recommends that you go to a certain supercharger and you will have XX% charge let. How many times have you been suggested to go somewhere by the Tesla software with less that 10% charge let alone 20%? I’m sure plenty of times. So that’s hypocritical. But I digress. Merry Christmas lol.
Yes. Sad the fanboys are pleased and proud to get screwed and then apologize for Tesla’s bad engineering and disgusting, lying customer service. This guy literally said he was blessed to get ripped off like a sheep.
I know Honda and Hyundai do the same thing they love just blaming the user. There is a girl who drove her car Down to single digits (1%) all the time cuz she hated charging her car. After a year she got rid of it.
Big business thinks of people as sheep, it's easy to steer people in the direction you want, with just a few persuasive claims about EV's. ... Foolish people are followers. ... big business winners
The way Tesla treated you is unacceptable. If they mean that anything what happens to your car when it is under 20% charge level will be your fault, then they should be sued by someone for this. How a normal user should know that they will fry some expensive equipment driving below 20% charge level? If it is that dangerous, then that charge level should be physically inaccessible by users and accordingly the range of the car must be specified to exclude any range which falls below 20%. If the car can fry such expensive equipment when on low charge, then it means it is Tesla design flaw, not user's fault. The car should be designed to shut off properly without frying anything and if it happens, then it is clearly Tesla's fault. The explanation that something happened which was not supposed to happen just indicates that there is a flaw in Tesla design and that it is Tesla who should pay for all those things which happened to you. So in general your story shown some fundamental flaws of how Tesla works. That means that just like you suggested one should not drive below 20% and that also means that when buying Tesla one should account that the total EV range reported by Tesla is BS and that one should take 20% off that range to get more realistic estimate what one can actually get in the real world. Alternative is off course to sue Tesla for such shady practices, but that is clearly not for everyone.
Sorry this happened to you. Does not sound that you used the car outside of its normal envelope. Tesla claiming that it is your fault for driving the car below 20% SOC is outrages and should be a start of a class action lawsuit. You should be able to drive the car down to 0% and the car should prevent damage to its systems. If the car bricks every time someone drives below 20% or 10% or even down to 0%, that is a design defect that the manufacturer is responsible for.
There is a guy that covered this on how to reset and turn on pretty easily 😂 and is a 16v not 12v and the dealership there is being a bit irresponsible.
Sounds suspicious, my opinion PCS Shorted out. Nothing to do with HV Level. I could see them argue that your 3rd party equipment overloaded the PCS caused a short.
Thanks for the heads up I just bought one and I DNT let it go lower than 30% . However I have seen many videos that made me feel like I could if I wanted too so I’m back to my 30% KUZ I ain’t trying to give away 2200 lol
Forget the videos, you can safely go to 20%, there is a buffer built in to prevent such occurrences, say 8%. I charge to less than 80% for city driving, for road trips, to 100% down to 20% planned.
I parked to meet up with friends and it was at 2%. I came back to the car an hour later and it said 0%. I was 6 miles away from a charger and died half way thete
Hold up you have a 2022 tesla model y with only 5000 miles left on your warrenty? These cars have 150,000 mile warrenty on them? You are saying you drove 145k miles in 1 year? If thats true your battery should be dead. Your defected valve should be covered under warrenty as well as the power conversion system. Since it failed because of the defected valve. Which I assume is a relay.
My Tesla Model Y started firing error codes on Thanksgiving Eve and I had it towed in to service because I was leaving on a trip that weekend. They fixed it on my nickel blamed rodent damage. Even charged my for a TPMS sensor inside the tire I bet they never changed. Cost $450
Think Tesla is more a software company than a car company?? Well, their software is so bad the mobile tech brought the wrong battery for the car. As an electrical engineer, I can tell you this whole case is so full of BS and incompetence from Tesla. This guy got ripped off.
This is complete BS…first of all, you are entitled to all the advertised range, or it’s false advertising. 2nd my trip planner in my Tesla routinely plans the trip where I arrive in the teens % wise. Granted I have the LFP pack, so maybe other Tesla’s don’t route that way. But I still believe you should be able to run outta gas and not burn something up.
Your warranty doesn't become irrelevant every time you discharge the traction battery below 20%. You've got Stockholm Syndrome. You think Tesla gets to misrepresent their range both with a lying estimate of range on the screen AND because you fear having a $2200 or worse penalty if anything happens when using your car in that window of State of Charge? Come on. Time to speak out about Tesla ripping you off.
this is obvious,y a warranty repair, this pcs nonsense is ridiculous... your SoC is irrelevant, your car should have internal protection to avoid this, if it doesn't, it's not your fault.
I truly appreciate all the comments, concerns and solutions you all have provided. Would love if you could share this in anyway to spread more awareness and knowledge. Tesla should do something about this absolutely
Man that sucks for all of us. If the bottom 20 % of the battery is unusable owners have been sold a lie on range. This repair should have been covered under warranty IMO.
“User cost”?! Even if you took the battery down to 0%, it shouldn’t then fry or damage any part. The design of the car should not allow such a problem.
100% agree.
Yeah… that’s bullshit .. this makes me not want a tesla..it should have been $0
I know this isn’t what you wanted to hear, but I would’ve lawyered up, A car being under 10% or even under 5% shouldn’t warrant a complete failure in the battery. That’s not how things work. If my phone died and I brought it to Apple and they said well, it’s your fault it died. All hell would break loose.
I’d check the warranty exceptions. I’ve seen so many RUclips’s drive to 0% or 1% and have no issues and would expect the technology to ensure it does not cost US$220 to fix just because you went under 20%.
I’d also escalate this.
On another note, I wish I were as nice a person as you. You seem awesome
Going below 20% is clearly not an issue here. The issue here is that both batteries died at the same time which is a rare occasion. However, that is still on Tesla, as it just shows the flaw in their design which is why Tesla should take full responsibility for it.
Does it warn you in the owners manual to not let the car go below 20% I don't think so, put the bill on a credit card stop payment and dispute the whole matter with Tesla, this is so rare they don't want to pay for it. You shouldn't pay for it either, Good luck, Happy New Year anyway.
As an owner of a Model Y what bothers me in all this is the fact these vehicles will navigate you to charging stations and even to your destination with 10% battery life. So I'm the user following directions. If they knew this could be potentially be an issue, an expensive one, why not inform the owners or have the navigation instruct users to top off from a higher battery percentage?
Tesla does give a shit after you purchase it
Scary process! Your calm demeanor throughout the whole situation is admirable, glad it all worked out 🤙🏼
Such a scary and nerve racking experience. I appreciate it man. I try to be that way when life doesn’t go as planned. Calm and collected is the best way to operate
Lol, being rowdy and aggressive won’t help fix the vehicle. So being calm and relaxed it is. 👍🏻
You should escalate this situation there was no good valid reason why that wouldn't be covered by warranty.
I’ll see what I can do. Hopefully this video brings some attention to it
The below 10% thing makes no sense. When I travel long distances it is normal for the car to route me to a supercharger to location at or below 10%. Unless you're saying you've run the car to 0% and kept going which I've seen RUclipsrs do.
I typically won't let my car get below 20%.
But back to my original question. How low did you run your car to. I noticed when you spoke to your girl it was mentioned she runs her phone down to empty.
I do the same thing as you. In this situation I drove the car to 2% and it sat for about an hour then while in route to a charger the car drastically dropped to 0 then shortly after completely shutdown
@@TessiVybz ouch. Still a fantastic video. New subscriber here.
Truly Appreciate it@@FSX239
@@TessiVybz If this is what happened to you, then it is not your fault and you should escalate the case. This was a normal use and any car malfunction under normal driving should be covered by Tesla warranty. It is really unacceptable that Tesla asked you to pay for this
That's crazy you're not covered below 20% soc
That’s called a design fault
Had to subscribe just bc of this video. Really appreciate you documenting everything for us and informing us from start to finish. You seem real cool and may God bless you and ya fam onward. Hope you can get that $$$ back in the future w RUclips bro. Please make more videos! From a fan down in San Diego, be easy !
If you’re under warranty, and that’s their design fault, that’s BS. I would consult a lawyer.
You have probably saved a lot of people a lot of money, thank you for the video.
I agree with what most of the coments say no way should you have to pay, i often
hear you should keep your battery between 20% and 80% but i didn't know it is
imperative. Thanks again. I have subscribed to your channel hopefully it will
help a little bit.
That right there was the main reason for me creating this video. So glad it can help the people out there. Let’s say I learned a lot through this process. I appreciate you subscribing
In other cars the access to lower and upper battery charge level is restricted physically, so you cannot damage the battery or anything related to it even if you wanted, but that comes with a price of significantly reduced overal car range. So if Tesla allows to use the full battery range, then recommends to use only 20% to 80% and finally blames the user for any faults which happen in ranges 80%, but still counts all the extra range one gets in those charge levels (which should account for 40% of total range), then I call it cheating and shady practices. No surprise then that other BEV manufacturers have hard time beating Tesla on range when Tesla cheat like that.
That’s BS. When you run out of gas in an ICE car, you don’t fry anything. Yes, it’s not great for the fuel pump, but it doesn’t destroy anything. What I’ve learned from this video and others is to keep your vehicle stock when it’s under warranty.
I really enjoy your videos, your attitude during the the entire process was great. I hope you get your lady a Tesla also 👍🏾
Thank you. I truly appreciate it
Never mod a car under warranty. Don’t minimize this. Perhaps the LV did have a phantom drain from these mods. In return it discharged the HV at the wrong moment as it is system critical. Remember that SoC is always a guess. Batteries only talk voltage. As the curve drops, the software calculates remaining energy.
Neither a 0% state of charge traction battery or dead 12/15.5V low voltage battery has anything to do with a failed PCS board. If the vehicle is within the 50K miles/4 year warranty period the PCS should be covered under warranty. I am not sure if the low voltage battery is maintained when the HV traction battery drops below 20%? or is maintained until the HV battery reaches 0%? Point is the PCS broke and one of its functions is to supply power to the low voltage buss and maintain the charge level of the low voltage battery.
I knew it! When I heard “Buena Park” I bought my car there a week and I have a problem with the car then they asked me to go to other dealer to get it fixed… their service is bad… it’s either they are lazy or don’t care at all. We should all complain because they are not gonna help everyone if they can get away sending people away. You should’ve not paid them. Key giveaway was “it only happened 2 times, you and someone so that means they should cover it because it’s not your fault. “ technical issues”
I’d say get your $2200… Buena Park wil only fix your car if they can get money from you. My friend had to pay them but I didn’t pay them so they sent me to other dealers. You should make a big deal about this so people will see how bad those people at Buena Park: if I only have big followers I will be talking about them. Please make a video about them. I have everything recorded text and messages back and forth with them: if you need a back up
The issue with LV battery is known issue. If it dies suddenly, you can pop open frunk using emergency port on front(using a 9v cell!), disconnect and charge with a 12v auto charger(Applies only to Lead Acid LV battery, could cause 🔥 in case of fully depleted Li-ion LV ). You could avoid towing, and take to sevice center without issues. Seems like a poor design issue and should be fully covered under warranty. There is no way sentry mode caused it, since it will be auto disabled under 20%. The issue is running down HV battery to 0%, and letting it in that state for a while. Even in such a case, PCS fault should be fully covered(glad the HV battery did not go dead!). Running HV battery frequently to less than 20%, will definitely reduce full charge range and cycle life drastically. I do suspect, there is more to this incident, than, what is reported. Who will keep their charge down in single digits? Normally, there is a system warning, when it reaches single digit, about HV battery not able to charge if depleted. Looks like, there was some other accessory that was directly connected to the PCS LV side, bypassing any e-fuse deactivation, which is normally fine with a functioning LV battery and SOC in double digits. Also, this "will" not fry the PCS, other than disable the vehicle. Other likely scenario is trying to jump charge LV, when the HV is fully depleted(without attempting to bring back HV to a stable SOC), resulting in a backfeed and damage of PCS. It is a likely situation, the Tesla mobile service did a sloppy job of not charging HV first, before reconnecting a fully charged LV battery🤞(Note: Any attempts to recharge a fully depleted LV will result in 🔥). The last scenario deserves a full refund on PCS replacement, EDIT:Seems to be the case, since the Car started(booted up display), but could not charge LV battery. Get back your hard earned 💵 END EDIT. In the end, I am just trying to identify likely scenario's and not specifically blaming anyone, so that we could avoid a repeat of this incident with other Tesla vehicles.❤️👍
Just want to confirm that I cannot charge the 12Volt battery without disconnecting first? That is good to know...
@@n00bprof82 Also, you would never attempt charging a fully depleted Li-ion LV, even after disconnecting, will cause fire and could explode. The disconnect charging applies only to Lead Acid LV battery only. Only under severe collision or other critical situation/malfunction,
the HV battery will disconnect(thru pyro fuse). In those situations, try disconnecting LV before getting the vehicle towed for repair. It might prevent the LV battery draining itself.
So Tesla service is saying you shouldn't drive it below 20% or you are liable for potential damages with the battery? On a road trip you don't want to charge it more than 80% just because that last 20% takes so long to charge. Then you have natural battery degradation and reduced range when driving in cold weather and/or towing. To top it off Tesla is facing a class action lawsuit for exaggerated EV range and rarely if ever meeting EPA estimates. To all the Tesla owners out there, i admire your resilience.
Where does ut state un the warranty that you are responsible for any fault when the car is below 20%? Also that would mean that the range is 20% less than what they state.... Also they have a buffer on the hv battery so what they told you is BS
That’s crazy! It should be a warranty issue. Never heard that explanation before. I used to have a 2018 LRRWD Model 3 and had a BMS issue caused by a tire shop not using protectivePucks which I provided them and that cost was around 2k but tire shop paid for the damage thank god. I just upgraded to a 2023 Model X and it’s amazing! Like you I’ll never own another car.
That is for sure should be covered by Tesla. If there is a flawed design which allows frying expensive equipment in the car when the car is low on charge then it is the manufacturer who should fix it as a user has nothing to do with this. If the car is allowed to be used at below 20% charge level, that means all user actions are justified and any fried components should be covered by Tesla if something goes wrong, or Tesla should disable access to that charge level below 20% if they think that using car in such state could start frying components worth $2200 and will also leave you stranded for multiple days.
@@dkostasx exactly that’s why these cars have 68kwh battery but 66kwh is usable. That’s supposed to be the buffer when usable range is done
Ha! When I had a tire puncture, I changed it myself without pucks and did not damage anything at all, saved me a bunch of frustration. (Still took four hours for Discount Tire to change the tire and charge me $411).
Good to know the knowledge of who pays if damage occurs when battery is below 20%. Great video!
Thanks for watching!
That looks like the latest 16 volt lithium battery which replaced the 12 volt lead acid battery. Thanks for aharing your experience.
Yea it’s a 16v
Thanks for the heads up. This is what I was wondering to do without warranty. This is super helpful.
Glad to help
EV manufacturers are targeting women, young and old, because their an easy sell. They don't realize the dangers of Lithium batteries or the long run cost of operation
I would be pissed if my car was under warranty and they tried to pass the cost on to me. This is typical dealer nonsense. Car is covered under warranty from 0 to 100% charge.
Great video. Thank you for the tips and glad you are blessed and got it fixed. I too am a Tesla fan boy especially when I went on the model 3 performance test drive. So fun to drive, acceleration was unworldly , so planted to the pavement. I enjoy the minimalism and the tech. As soon as Highland performance comes to Phoenix I'm getting it!!! It's so close to being announced I just want it already 😅😅😅
Aaron
Glad it helped. Still my dream car
Wow Tesla really played with that “user error conclusion” I think they saw your modification and automatically said “user error”. Knowing it’s Tesla faulty system plus you was under warranty. This could have happened to any owner. My question is what insurance you have where you had to physically use their applications for the rims & any update with that process? Also the towing services was from Tesla road side assistance?
That’s a possibility for sure. A lot was learned here. The first tow I got from the side of the road to a supercharger was via Tesla roadside, and was the only tow guy that knew what to do.
My second tow from the supercharger to home was through my insurance and that’s the one who damaged my rims. A claim has been made so I’m just going through the motions of getting estimates approved
Sad to see they say is user fault, but I'm grateful of you sharing this insight, so many of us learn this lesson with you.
Surprised there were no warning signs saying the 12 volt battery was going defective before the vehicle completely shut down. Thanks for this entire video and what you went through.
I think there is.
I hate it when Tesla's be trippin'. 🤷♂😂😂😂
And when they trip they trippp lol
Enjoying your videos i bought a 2023 model y long rand December 31, 2023 after the fact I've been doing a lot of research and adding mods. I just want to know how many times did you let your battery go under 20% to cause this problem?
I don't feel comfortable going below 20% with my 2023 MYLR, because I am a newbie and have not yet gained confidence in the projected range. But if you're not suppose to go below 20% why does the Tesla navigation routing always select supercharger stops along a route where the SOC is below 20%, sometimes with say 8-9% SOC upon arriving at the supercharger. I typically override those chosen stops when tweaking my route if I can, or I charge longer than stated in the navigation route at each charger. For example, if I am at a 22% SOC and it says I can depart once I reach 35%, and I will then arrive at the next charger with 14%, I will override by charging an extra 10-15% which results in a charger arrival SOC of 24%-29%. So I think TESLA programmers/TESLA service/TESLA needs to be more consistent in their advice and app/in-car navigation where it doesn't have you arrive at chargers with under 20% if that is a thing. And my experience so far, 30 days, depending on weather conditions and battery pack temp, etc I have sees the stated arrival SOC drop precipitously during the initial part of my route. After a while the SOC will level off and the use of power will be more consistent. And sometimes the arrival SOC even goes up by a little, although this happens far less frequently. I heard that this may be a result of my MYLR being so new and my not having taken the SOC from low to high enough times for the vehicle's computer predictions to be accurate. Still, I continue to tweak my arrival SOC by charging more or choosing another charger than the suggested one so that I will arrive with 20-30% SOC, just in case something unexpected happens during the drive, and I use an extra 10%. If this is not what I should be doing, I would appreciate any advice or point me to a document that states clearly the rules of charging. Thanks! And thanks for this video!!!
Safety is the issue, you can run the battery to zero, but you take a chance it won't recharge and need to be towed to a service center. Except in the future, you can get a Cybertruck to recharge you on the road.
You can drive it down to zero (there are 4.2% usable reserve beyond 0%) if you arrive at a charging destination. Do not let it stand around with very low SoC!
That's why the car says "please charge" when it drops below 7%.
The reason the projected SoC is changing during the drive (besides driving style) is because the navigation system is adjusting for weather and traffic conditions. You can look up how your actual driving differs from the projection in the trip tab of the consumption screen.
You are doing nothing wrong. If the extra 10% give you peace of mind then go for it.
There are countless studies on battery SOH if you really want to dig deeper.
"State of health estimation of cycle aged large format lithium-ion cells based on partial charging" - Journal Of Energy Storage Nr. 46 2022
The thing is that they can never reflect how EV batteries are used in the real world. Our charging, discharging, ageing and thermal cycles are vastly different from what those studies can work with. Additionally, our battery packs are made out of a lot more things than just plain battery cells.
I'd say every rule you need to know about, is in the Owner's Manual.
Awesome video. I have the same year and model as you. This info was extremely helpful. I will be sharing your video with my Tesla Service Mgr for more details. Again thanks and keep up the great work you do!
That’s a design flaw. You should not have to pay anything especially if it’s still under warranty.
That’s what I was thinking, but they wouldn’t budge
@@TessiVybz tweet Elon
@@TessiVybz Escalate the case. Maybe try to find organizations which protect consumers from shady car manufacturer practices which may help in this case
Bro this is TOP TIER knowledge! Tesla always being sneaky 😤
Imagine if I got to have the tech on cam. But yea I learned soooo much through this experience. Seriouslyyyyy
Not all techs have what it takes, not necessarily Tesla the company.
Thank you for sharing your experience, it helps me understand the car better.
Thank you for sharing your information, And hopefully everything go well! I do have the same car too hopefully I don’t have to go through that!
On my early 2023 MY LR the 16 volt lithium ion battery up and died twice before and after repair. First time I was told the High voltage controller was replaced. Second time I was told the circuit breaker X....etc wasn't fully seated. Thankfully I got my money back on that model Y and now I have a new Model Y Performance although its still a Fremont build like the previous one so Im hoping it won't be defective.
Thank you so much for helping other people 🙏🙏🙏
All I can say is, you guys are great people!
thanks for being the pioneer.. ill try to risk it a lot less
Haha no problem. I definitely won’t be risking it like I used to
As he was talking my bs regulator went off. I would call bs on the no warranty claim. No wonder he did now want you to record.
Why the large battery's power failure protection mechanism didn't work .... It's really too small of a probability🤕
That’s what I was thinking too. I’ll just say that this was an expensive lesson
unlike some of you I care about the dash cam working, so I NEVER let it drop below 25% its always ways charged up before it even hits and most times I only charge once a week as its about 40 to 30% when I do. never let it drop below 25%
Listening to the Tech spew absolute BS was frustrating. This is not a User Cost, they scammed you.
Yea, unfortunately so.
I wanna get a model y as well is it worth it .. Or should i stick with my gas car ?
$2200 for an effing fuse? Nothing the tech said made an ounce of electrical sense. 🤣🤣🤦♂️
Do you still have the car? Or did you switch to something else?
I still have it. Haven’t had any issues since
Thanks for the video! It is really valuable to know this!
So crazy!!! 🤯🤯🤯
Tell me about it. SMH
Well one thing this tells us is that you are a quality person for sure. 🙂
If you installed the latest holiday software update, many people reported an issue with 12v battery, the latest software update fixed the problem. If that's the problem at all !
Unfortunately this happened before the update.
I’m thinking apartment life had you normally keeping the charge low…and that finally caught up with you. Not enough information. Glad all turned out well.
God bless you! i'm french and your experience return will be in minds. i wish you thje best for 2024!
I have honestly been thinking of getting rid of my Tesla because I’m not going to be in a financial position where Tesla will throw me a bill for over $2k when the car is supposed to be under warranty . Its like a dealership telling you that your car wont be covered under warranty because you were running your car on a 1/4 tank .
Thank you for the warning. I’m picking up my Tesla on Thursday. I’ll will remember this bit of information
Of course and congratulations on the Tesla, you’re going to love it
What happens if you own a tesla in a country where there isnt a tesla service center? Like i have one that i ordered to a small island on the Caribbean but there isnt a main tesla so far i have had no issues but man
Sorry that happened to you. But I think I would’ve pushed back on the 10% BS… The car should be covered until you hit 0% in my opinion. Then yes, that would be “user error” but anything above should be covered by Tesla, seriously!! I wish you’d go back to them and fight this point to set precedence for the rest of us. Thanks for your great beautiful videos👍🏻
That's like a punch in the gut. Thanks for educating all of us. 🤔
Appreciate the tips and hope the car is doing well since then, sucks you really have to raise hell and fight them to get them to do the right thing an honor warranty, they must be trained to try to create excuses to weisel out of offering warranty repairs. Just like that Cybertruck guy who had coolant leaking when he drove for less than 5 minutes and they tried to tell him it wasn't covered under warranty until he raised hell. Really want a Tesla...but behavior like this is why im so hesitant to pull the trigger.
All out of pocket cost sucks and Tesla's lack of communication is still a problem. You are lucky they gave you a loaners. Keep in mind that batteries become unpredictable at a low state of charge. The math to calculate true 0% is not perfect and can cause unpredictable damage. It's not as easy as calculating howmuchy gallons of fuel are left in the tank. That's why we need to follow the warnings. A larger battery buffer would probably help in these situations. 🤷♂️
Yes I agree. Their communication and service is not up to par at all. Granted, all the service people were kind and nice, but I do feel like I was robbed here.
Great video and great attitude. I truly respect how you handled this. You get more bees with honey and you live a longer happier life.
22:01 wait they dont' offer you free towing at tesla in America? man it really sucks to live in he U.S. then, free towing is offered by Tesla in Australia.
Nope not here. They dispatch different towing companies in the area and you pay the towing company
3:25 you should be on a 16v battery like every other tesla from 2022 onwards.
The entire explanation is total BS to be honest. This was 100% a warranty issue. My Model S is currently at the SC and has been there since a few days before Thanksgiving. The entire situation has been an absolute sh$% show from the start!!! I had a large drive unit failure. 1st issue was no loaner given. I've had my car at the SC multiple times for small issues and was always given a loaner....while out of warranty. This time they told me they no longer give loaners to ANY owners out of warranty. 2 days later my sister took her Model S to the same exact SC, was also out of warranty, and was given a loaner immediately, no questions asked. She lives 10 min from the SC....i live 45 min away. When I called to inquire what was up with that they stuttered and stammered, they claimed the rules had JUST been changed!? They then asked when I could come pick up my loaner!! The cost estimate has gone from $6200...to $6500...to $7400....to $8500...to $9400. They're trying to replace almost the entire rear suspension now as they claim all of the bolts in the rear suspension are rusty, they're snapping them off as they remove them. They're heating the broken bolts to remove them and in the process they're destroying all of the rubber bushings. They don't replace the bushings, they replace the entire suspension piece. Weeks ago they claimed they had ALL of the parts to complete the repair...but then my completion time kept getting pushed out with nutty excuses. This went on for weeks. It was supposed to be ready last Thursday and I got a call on that day and was finally given the truth....they hadn't TOUCHED my car in weeks!!! They claim they're short on technicians!!! When I went into the SC just after Thanksgiving to pick up the loaner I asked to see these rusty bolts. My car was on a lift, the rear cradle that holds everything (drive unit, suspension, etc) was out of the car. So my car has been sitting up in the air for a month now. I'm now worried about the HV battery as it sits up in the air. The app has been showing the car in service mode, sitting at 54% SOC, for a month now. I KNOW they're NOT charging it and my gut tells me that it's been sitting on the lift @ 0% SOC this entire time!!!
There's sooo much more to the situation, I just can't type out 6 pages to run through it all. I'm beyond disappointed in the situation! If I pick up my car and the HV battery has been screwed up from their negligence, and they attempt to make ME pay for a new HV battery I'm going to lose it!!!
That is not pretty and such shady practices can only be stopped by right to repair and 3rd party services which can properly fix cars without any BS. Now the only place to repair the car is basically Tesla, so as a monopolist they can do whatever they want and get away with it.
Regarding the HV battery, then if it is at ~50% SoC, then it is the best place for the battery to be stored at. Since they disassembled car partly that would also mean that the HV battery is disconnected and it should not drain fast. Even when the car is fully operational with battery connected and everything Tesla claim that one can expect up to 1% discharge per day, so you would be good for several months. However, I would be more worried about the little 12-16V battery
@@dkostasx ....I hope you're correct. I hope they've disconnected the HV battery. The car was dropped off on 11/21 and was at 60% SOC at drop off. It was put into service mode on 11/22 and has shown 54% since that day. If your correct and the expected rate of loss IF the HV battery was disconnected is 1% daily....then it should be sitting @ ~ 19% today. If you're off just a tiny bit, and it's actually 2% or more daily, then my car is sitting on that lift @ 0%.
I'm also worried about the 12 volt....but that's a couple hundred dollars to deal with, not $15k.
Your 3rd party comments are accurate. Tesla has everyone by the neck right now. I live in the Phoenix area and have access to Gruber Motors, one of the few 3rd party facilities in the country. They were my 1st call when Tesla told me that coolant was leaking into the drive unit (a known issue with the large drive units. It was already replaced just before the warranty expired last year....they say THAT replacements coverage expired when the cars warranty did. Because I'm paying for this one out of pocket it comes with a 4yr 50k warranty. Another fact that pisses me off). Gruber would have charged me just under $6k to replace the drive unit....with a used one they sourced from a salvage Tesla...that'd have the SAME issue at some point...but would have ZERO warranty. Tesla will not sell them a new drive unit. I could source a drive unit myself and Gruber would've installed for $800. I found 1 for $3500 shipped. But again, that option would've cost me ~ $4300 all in for a used unit with ZERO warranty. So I went ahead with Tesla as the plan WAS to sell my car in 2024 and buy a new Model 3. The warranty seemed to be worth it @ $6200 for the Tesla option. The $ I had set aside for the new car purchase is now going into my old S. I'm basically lighting it on fire, I'll NEVER see that money again. I'm not comfortable keeping my 2014 any longer then I have to now as the HV battery will be the next thing to go. Crummy situation on all fronts!!
@@ferrynpalmer3875Good luck with your car. At least you had some options. In many places there are no 3rd party services like the Gruber Motors
You have a great attitude I’ll give you that. I still think they should’ve covered your issue under warranty. On road trips the car recommends that you go to a certain supercharger and you will have XX% charge let. How many times have you been suggested to go somewhere by the Tesla software with less that 10% charge let alone 20%? I’m sure plenty of times. So that’s hypocritical. But I digress. Merry Christmas lol.
If the safe charge level is 20% to 80%, then the battery has only 60% of its advertised capacity. Same for the range.
Yes. Sad the fanboys are pleased and proud to get screwed and then apologize for Tesla’s bad engineering and disgusting, lying customer service. This guy literally said he was blessed to get ripped off like a sheep.
I know Honda and Hyundai do the same thing they love just blaming the user. There is a girl who drove her car Down to single digits (1%) all the time cuz she hated charging her car. After a year she got rid of it.
Thankfully only 2,200 and not 22,000 🤯🤯🤯
Life lesson learned
Big business thinks of people as sheep, it's easy to steer people in the direction you want, with just a few persuasive claims about EV's. ... Foolish people are followers. ... big business winners
Luckily they did not blame the power flunk. Did they hook it back to your battery?
They disconnect it. When I’m back in town from the holidays, I’ll reattach it. Pretty simple to do
The way Tesla treated you is unacceptable. If they mean that anything what happens to your car when it is under 20% charge level will be your fault, then they should be sued by someone for this. How a normal user should know that they will fry some expensive equipment driving below 20% charge level? If it is that dangerous, then that charge level should be physically inaccessible by users and accordingly the range of the car must be specified to exclude any range which falls below 20%. If the car can fry such expensive equipment when on low charge, then it means it is Tesla design flaw, not user's fault. The car should be designed to shut off properly without frying anything and if it happens, then it is clearly Tesla's fault. The explanation that something happened which was not supposed to happen just indicates that there is a flaw in Tesla design and that it is Tesla who should pay for all those things which happened to you.
So in general your story shown some fundamental flaws of how Tesla works. That means that just like you suggested one should not drive below 20% and that also means that when buying Tesla one should account that the total EV range reported by Tesla is BS and that one should take 20% off that range to get more realistic estimate what one can actually get in the real world. Alternative is off course to sue Tesla for such shady practices, but that is clearly not for everyone.
Sorry this happened to you. Does not sound that you used the car outside of its normal envelope. Tesla claiming that it is your fault for driving the car below 20% SOC is outrages and should be a start of a class action lawsuit. You should be able to drive the car down to 0% and the car should prevent damage to its systems. If the car bricks every time someone drives below 20% or 10% or even down to 0%, that is a design defect that the manufacturer is responsible for.
There is a guy that covered this on how to reset and turn on pretty easily 😂 and is a 16v not 12v and the dealership there is being a bit irresponsible.
You’re correct it is 16V. They did a great job with fixing everything. But yea that cost is ridiculous
This is one of the reasons I will not get an EV. I’ll keep on daily driving my reliable 86 I.C.E. vehicle. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Low battery level voids warranty?! 😮 No warning?!
Sounds suspicious, my opinion PCS Shorted out. Nothing to do with HV Level. I could see them argue that your 3rd party equipment overloaded the PCS caused a short.
Below 10% you are rolling the dice…..no reason to drain it below if you are in the city like LA
Thanks for the heads up I just bought one and I DNT let it go lower than 30% . However I have seen many videos that made me feel like I could if I wanted too so I’m back to my 30% KUZ I ain’t trying to give away 2200 lol
Forget the videos, you can safely go to 20%, there is a buffer built in to prevent such occurrences, say 8%. I charge to less than 80% for city driving, for road trips, to 100% down to 20% planned.
i found ur channel from whaam baam dash cam
Your insurance should have car rental coverage unless you don’t buy it
My insurance does have rental car in my policy, but I’d rather driver the free Tesla
Is your LV Battery the 12V or 16V ?
16V
How low was your battery when this happened?
I parked to meet up with friends and it was at 2%. I came back to the car an hour later and it said 0%. I was 6 miles away from a charger and died half way thete
29:30 tesla model 3 and Y aren't luxury cars lol but they are nice. though.
lol exactly why I did air quotes. But yea they’re very nice cars
Hold up you have a 2022 tesla model y with only 5000 miles left on your warrenty? These cars have 150,000 mile warrenty on them? You are saying you drove 145k miles in 1 year? If thats true your battery should be dead. Your defected valve should be covered under warrenty as well as the power conversion system. Since it failed because of the defected valve. Which I assume is a relay.
Sorry I was referring to the the basic warranty which is 4 years or 50k miles whichever comes first
@@TessiVybz interesting I didn't know they had that.
If you car is less than 4 years old and the odometer is at 45K miles the PCS should be covered under warranty!@@TessiVybz
Thanks!! 2200 is a lot!!
Tooo much in my opinion
Why did the Tesla service-guy not know what battery this model had? Was he new on the job???
Call the better business bureau and tell them Tesla's warranty isn't worth the paper it was never written on. Tesla sux.
The named it correct...Model why.😅
Hahahahaha
You should have had the repair done under warranty because that low state of charge explanation is baloney.
Smhhhh. I’ll be escalating it for sure
Why would you pay for it? Speak to management it makes no sense
My Tesla Model Y started firing error codes on Thanksgiving Eve and I had it towed in to service because I was leaving on a trip that weekend. They fixed it on my nickel blamed rodent damage. Even charged my for a TPMS sensor inside the tire I bet they never changed. Cost $450
Think Tesla is more a software company than a car company?? Well, their software is so bad the mobile tech brought the wrong battery for the car. As an electrical engineer, I can tell you this whole case is so full of BS and incompetence from Tesla. This guy got ripped off.
Nio is the way
I’ve been running my HEMI Charger daily for 10 years - never spent a penny for repairs other than oil changes.
in the 10 years you never changed tires, brakes, battery and fluids?
This is complete BS…first of all, you are entitled to all the advertised range, or it’s false advertising. 2nd my trip planner in my Tesla routinely plans the trip where I arrive in the teens % wise. Granted I have the LFP pack, so maybe other Tesla’s don’t route that way. But I still believe you should be able to run outta gas and not burn something up.
Your warranty doesn't become irrelevant every time you discharge the traction battery below 20%. You've got Stockholm Syndrome. You think Tesla gets to misrepresent their range both with a lying estimate of range on the screen AND because you fear having a $2200 or worse penalty if anything happens when using your car in that window of State of Charge? Come on. Time to speak out about Tesla ripping you off.
this is obvious,y a warranty repair, this pcs nonsense is ridiculous... your SoC is irrelevant, your car should have internal protection to avoid this, if it doesn't, it's not your fault.