Some tip I didn't see, but helped me a lot in DR2: Turn off your OSD/HUD. Almost entirely. You cann keep the speedometer if you want to, everything else HAS TO GO. You don't want to stress yourself with how much you're behind, or how much more is left from a stage. Also, learn to pay attention to what your co-driver SAYS instead of the sings, which just distract you.
As for graphics settings: you don't need to lower so many options because here is Car Reflection option which is almost enough to change - after changing it from Ultra to Ultra Low my fps raised from 85 to 140+. Lowering Crowd option helps with many stutters
What was the point of preordering? What if it would have been a mess as it is for some people who can't even play it cause of how many microstutters they experience? At least they had the chance of refunding it
Well u get an extra discount if you've played dirt rally 2 (maybe other code master games as well) and 3 days early access, also the game is a lot cheaper than triple a games atleast in canada, I paid 50 bucks instead of 80+.
When playing sim racers, I now tweak graphics, and most especially the controls. Really sucked at these games before because I was too lazy to change settings but once I was tired of not enjoying the game, I put up myself to change every bit of it for my liking. Then everything went really well and the once very frustrating experience for me became a blast to play. So to anyone who says they hate a sim racer or any racing game because they keep crashing or flipping over, know that all it takes is just tweaking the settings for you to have a great time.
Great tips. I've been playing the DIRT Rally games for a while and everything in here sticks. I DO want to mention one small thing: Co-Driver calls being set to "earliest" can be confusing for new players, and sometimes even veterans because the calls are SO early they can be misleading (if the person isn't keeping track of which turn they just hit). The earliest setting can sometimes get 1-3 turns ahead of the car position. I humbly suggest new players stick with "normal" on co-driver call-out timing.
Unfortunately, you are talking nonsense, even if you set it at the earliest, it often tells you about the relapse too late. especially when you're driving Rally 1 at full throttle
@@mrbeckham666he's only saying that it might be too much to process for beginners... And people in their late 40's like me. But earlier is probably better like you say. I'm more reactive than someone who wants a memory test quiz, personally.
Yeah, I didn't agree with that one because by making the calls much earlier, you might forget those calls because it's understandable...you are also paying attention to a lot of elements while driving like the speed you are going, the surroundings to avoid any slight mishaps on turns, you feeling out the surface when driving, etc. So it's much better to not entirely make it really early.
Have to say im loving the game so far and very happy i preordered on the series x. Car handling is just so intuitive and once i get in the flow it’s just mesmerising. So far everything is great just a few technical hiccups from the odd stutter when racing and when the camera pans around the car at the end of a stage. Great video btw!
Arcade? Lol you trippin. Ive been playing dirt 2.0 for years and am pretty damn good, and thats a good sim. I think this is hard as shit lol @Focusonbehind
I know not everyone sees eye to eye on this. But I personally think that for a rally game, specifically, assists may allow people to develop bad habits that may be hard to overcome once they decide to drop the assists. For examples some techniques may not work out well if you have full ABS and traction control on. Which could lead to a different kind of frustration when attempting to learn some of the rally techniques. Ultimately as long as your having fun that's what counts though! :)
For the graphics versus performance: Still, to this day, things like shadows and reflections will demand most from your system. Anti-aliasing, if it's super-sampling (which I believe just multiplies rendering the image, basically upscaling the pixels), then yes it can be quite heavy, but other types of AA won't impact performance that much these days. - It's best to look at settings like shadows, shading, blending, reflecting, which is stuff even strong GPUs can still struggle with. - So that means you can mix and match for a quality and performance balance. - Also resolution is critical, as the more pixels it will need to render, the more performance will get bogged down. So if there's an option to use a lower resolution or a scaler, you can reduce that to a point that it still looks good but "waters down" the pixel-count so it's not as taxing. Even turning down a scaler to anywhere between 90% down to 75% will improve it a lot while still looking good. - Of course techniques like DLSS and FSR help mitigate quality-loss where possible. That said, Unreal Engine is a beast in its own right, in a bad way. If Codemasters was still on EGO, I could pretty much guarantee it's very optimized, which this studio has been one of the best in. But, while it might have improved (which I don't know), this game had technical issues from the start due to their switch to UE, so it's a bit of a different story now. - All I know is that UE has always just been a drag on systems, probably even worse with 4 and 5. Oh, and in the end, try to get it so that it "locks" to around a certain framerate and it doesn't fluctuate wildly, which is worse than just having a framerate that is on the lower side, as it throws off the consistency of the feel. And I'm talking about fluctuations of say over 10-20 fps, at least when we're speaking of 60fps or lower. The higher the average is, the less you're going to notice fluctuations (as long as it doesn't stutter or drops down significantly of course), so you want consistency.
Thanks guys!!! You really helped me get an awesome jump start with this foundational video. I used your setting and then tweaked it a little here and there to make it my own, and I am killing it on the track!! I just did a major upgrade of my sim system. I had a basic stand and Thrustmaster belt drive,( It was good). Now I have a Fanatec csl dd. 8 nm. WRC wheel and McLaren wheel, and emergency break. I upgraded to a middle of the road sim rig with seat. I took the plunge. Now me, my Oled TV, my Xbox Series X and my new Fanatec System are loving the likes of Assetto Corsa Competizione, F123 and WRC!!!
Just got my first sim setup this past week. Running a CSL DD (8nm), OLED, and Series X as well. I'm absolutely loving it and can't wait to add to the setup. I've been missing out for years not having this and can't we happier with WRC, ACC and Forza.
I think for a lot of people FWD cars are difficult to understand how to drive it proper. As in general a lot of people drive RWD cars in other games like GT3 or F1. FWD is a complete different approach, as a lot of times you need to combine throttle and brake at the same time, keep throttle through a corner in a lot of cases, and if you oversteer or loose the back you keep the throttle to catch it (with RWD you need to go off throttle). So for a lot of people it’s a brainfreeze if they are very used to RWD and try FWD in racing conditions.
Also, on gravel, you need to put the break bias really far back to lock the rears and throw the car into the corners hard... and on tarmac you need to be very aggressive cause of the understeer and make your setup all about oversteer along with a good low grounded ride height... people need to not be afraid in FWD cars... FWD is more about you abusing the car while RWD is more about the car abusing you... lol 4WD is a whole different story... horrible on tarmac because of the massive understeer (even more than FWD) but amasing on Gravel because you can really use the 4-wheel power to throw it hard in every corner and push the pedal to the metal as you get out of them without losing your direction...
Or maybe they’re writing it off because it’s yet another unfinished piece of trash that will probably have yearly releases because it’s an EA Sports game.
As I had the money for a wheel but not a shifter or handbrake...I use the clutch pedal as my handbrake for the time being....it actually works pretty good and after a bit of an adjustment period....it has become muscle memory. I only had the chance to play a couple of stages as I messed my back up...but what I did play was a lot of fun. My tip for new drivers is that driving a bit cautiously and consistently finishing stages will yield you a better result then a full send on every stage and ending up in the trees half the time. Once you practice enough and get the hang of your cars handling you can start pushing more...but remember....you are always 1 mistake from a potentially rally ending crash if you play with hardcore damage... (which i absolutely recommend).
In the front and rear wheel drive cars you'll be wanting to use left foot braking so having the handbrake on the clutch pedal is not such a good idea. You'll be far better off using a button on the wheel until you get a proper handbrake. If you've got a joystick kicking around you can always use that as a handbrake.
@@somecallmetim42 Honestly it hasn't been an issue for me thus far. I keep my left foot over the brake pedal and just kick my heel over to hit the handbrake when I need it....mostly for the FWD cars. With the RWD and 4WD cars I can usually get the car around most corners without using the handbrake at all. The joystick advice is solid though, I might have an old flight stick kicking around here somewhere...I'll have to give it a look....and then figure out how to attach it to my racing cockpit.
This game is a masterpiece... they really captured how rally works... the cars are very controllable but the stages are brutal... Chile is a real car killer... Rally Safari is a constant fight against the brutal road surface... the snow around the Swedish roads is so unforgiving... Rally Acropolis? Just good luck... more hairpins than turns, rough gravel, no space for a single mistake... Finland? You better not push even 1% harder than you can handle cause one crash means that "you have chosen... DEATH"... People complain this game is easy... not even fucking close... cars are very realistic and controllable like real rally cars... but the stages, especially with the degradation are incredibly challenging... the most insane stages ever created... no other rally sim even comes close on that aspect...
What makes me laugh the most are those pretend specialists who think that the rally 1 class should fly sideways like in RBR. there, the Rally 1 class has nothing to do with realism
For tire friction I recommend setting it as high as comfortably possible and turning down steering damper as as low as comfortably possible. As when the tires are off the road there should be minimal force in the wheel. All the forces and damper effect should come from the tire and suspension geometry simulation.
Here's 3 tips from me. 1 - Turn mirror reflections off and turn car reflections to ultra low. This will give you 40-50fps alone. 2 - If your using a 4WD car then turn off traction control. This will make you faster mid corner and upon corner exit. 3 - if your new to rally start off with a mini or the WRC junior category to start with and when your comfortable try another car that has 270-300 horse power, this will help you build up to the 500bhp WRC 1 cars while getting use to the stages. Avoid the group B Audi until you have more experience and you are comfortable with rally stages as this car is an absolute monster.
Starting out I always gotta use manual shifting no matter what cause their are times you will want to stay in a gear a lot longer then automatic will do in a hairpin and with automatic it will gear up way sooner then you will want it to. But I’m using a controller and using the same controller setup I’m using on the F1 game since it’s made by the same people. But I did turn off ABS steering assist and throttle assist. If you play it starting off with every assist off you will figure out the throttle control way better and figure out when the rear is about to snap and how to keep it on the roads. I do like how narrow the roads are it’s insane.
Absolutely loving it. A lot of DR2.0 vibes in driving it self but no complaints about that. Here in a couple days I’ll switch over to realistic damage to see if it can be pushed father in consequences, but we shall see.
@@AwesomeCREEPER77 It really is... you need to be extremely careful in realistic damage... yes, you don't die on the first medium speed crash but you get light damage so easily... you get light damage every time you even slightly touch anything... it's insane... I really hope there will be some multiplayer lobbies with really long rallies where the safe drivers shine... cause the ones I've played were all few stages and small distance stages so it was mostly speed-running... and I'm not that good at that... when I push to the limit I tend to make mistakes... but I'm good at long stages to find a good flow and focus on being safe with a decent pace...
@@SmolOperator Would you speed run it in a competition that has no do-overs? No... time trials and online competition are very different... if you did a speed run in an online lobby you would most likely have horrible results... so I don't get your point...
@@nikosfotidas8543 no I'm just saying I enjoy getting the fastest run I think is possible and if I only had one go I'd obviously slow down a bit and be a bit conservative if it was just free play I'd restart over and over
Really enjoying this game so far. I like the fact that the game is still hard but in a different way. In DR2, you can have a race ending crash in the most pathetic way possible at about 30mph, because the difficulty came from getting the car from A to B in my opinion. In EAWRC, I think the driving is slightly easier, but it's still very tough driving on the limit and that's where the challenge comes from here. It's trying to save a second here and a few tenths there. I'd compare it with the F1 games in that it's not horrendously difficult to drive the cars but it's quite hard to drive them as fast as possible. I think Codies have gone in a great direction with this game. Fantastic guide once again John. Looking forward to more 😊
In EA WRC the challenge is the stages... the terrain... which is REALISTIC... rally cars are some of the most controllable cars in the world... however the terrain on which they race is brutal, just like in the game... Safari Rally is so rough in the game... Finland is a car killer... Chile is even worse, speeding downhill at 180kph and seeing a tight turn at the end... Swedish snow is so unforgiving and Norwegian Scandia stages are even more brutal... Rally Acropolis? don't even bother... it's so tight and brutal that you literally have ZERO room outside the tiny tight road... This game is a masterpiece... they really captured rallying... good, stable cars on insanely brutal roads, fighting to survive if you want to push at the limit...
TIP: For handbrake, you can assign up to 3 different binds to it. For instance Ive assigned Triangle, Circle, AND X, all to the handbrake. This means I dont have to go button hunting when I need it. I just have to mash the area of the buttons now. Its helped me tremendously as I'm no longer accidentally switch Views, lol
Just got it loaded on my brand new Xbox X Series. I have a Thrustmaster 383 and I had issues with the wheel rotation. Can't set it manually so I redid the calibration with about 80% of wheel lock and that seemed to do the trick. Pretty good feel. Wish I could set it manually at 540.
For those who don't got an option for DLSS under Upscale in the basic graphics settings you can use AMD's fidelity upscaler instead, the reason it don't show up is because DLSS is like it says on the side: only for compatible nvidia gpu's, for those wondering thats the rtx cards, the gtx cards don't support DLSS because of something something chipset tech AI tech something, if your card dont say RTX u can't use DLSS. also note that DLSS works best on the RTX 40-series gpu's, but all RTX cards support DLSS one way or another.
Unfortunately the project was halted. I’m now over on the Race Anywhere channel where il be continuing the sim racing content, Piers is at Alpha Live and Tom is at Overtake. Thanks for the support!❤
Still the best tip (at least one that helped me the most) is to buy a cheap old joystick if you don't have a proper handbrake. Works perfectly and using an axis instead of button is 100 times better, as you can modulate the handbrake and not just immediately lock up the wheels and spin out
Earliest co-driver calls are not early enough, and camera angle and position should be adjustable in all camera views and be adjusted a lot more to accommodate for less optimal monitor positions. Imagine the bonnet view but angled up a bit so the road is more straight ahead, and then moving the seat either to the left or right depending on your preferences.
You can switch the hands and wheel off in cockpit view. Also for me adjusting the wheel to 540 in Fanalab actually does not match the hands with the wheel.
Great video, although I would do one *major* thing different as a beginner. I would start out with 0 assists and the slowest FWD car possible. Keeping the assists on and driving faster cars will create bad habits in the long run.
On the part with the Seat Adjustment - you can ONLY adjust the seat in the cockpit view with the wheel, but you can turn off the wheel in the cockpit view....
As important as any of these elements is setup, but that's of course slightly more intermediate. I hope you guys dedicate a video to that particular skill as well.
To be totally honest, you can do just as fine on stock setup 99% of the time. This is coming from a religious tuner, I will have a personal setup guide coming from a pro though.
@@AmbientMikenah I wouldn't say just as fine...for example ride height and stiffer suspension and dampers provide a big handling difference on flat stages and surfaces like tarmac. You don't have to go very in-depth though for all settings, but some tweaks are very helpful for better stage times.
Ive been told by devs that ride height is indeed implemented, but it doesnt makes nearly as much of an impact as say in ACC or other sims. Point still stands that skill will always trump a good setup. @@petertromp8786
Another update for WRC today and another coming early next month. Looking superb on the PS5. If you're still slagging this game you need a check up from the neck up!
The stuttering is due to Shaders loading and should go away after you're first run through a stage. If you are still getting stuttering it might be you are using too much memory on the graphics card so turn down the textures and maybe AA. For screen tearing either get a G-sync monitor or you can turn on V-sync (which may induce a bit of controller lag) or better still set the maximum FPS to that of your monitor or set V-sync to FAST in you have an Nvidia card.
Sadly the project was halted. I’m now over on the Race Anywhere channel if you wish to follow, will be continuing to make sim racing content of all sorts. Thanks!😊
Tip 1: wait for them to patch the game. Ps5 trial version is roughhh. Screen tearing, framerate drops and underwhelming graphics are all present. Asphalt driving could also do with some work, seemingly random loss of grip is still a thing
@neoone75 when did the patch come out? Was playing it about 6 hours ago and it was extremely rough. I'm not just bashing the game for the sake of it btw, I'm a fan of codemasters rally games
DLSS Ultra performance is not really great at lower resolutions its really intended for 4k, at 1080p its trying to upscale around 1/3 of 1080p from memory which makes it look pretty blurry. However up to the person how much artifacting and blurryness you can tolerate.
Why set rotation to 540? If you just set it to your max wheel rotation for your base then run the calibrate option and use softlock, doesn't that set everything up to match every car individually?
@@atticushexcel9567 this option you can found in the game menu, exist since dirt rally 1 if I’m not wrong. Set your wheel rotation at 900 or 1080 like older cars, and use soft lock option. This will match always for each individual cars the proper wheel rotation. Really nice option and really surprise the guys who do this tips and tricks about configuration didn’t know that… 540 wheel rotation will be trash for older cars
Please provide career tips. Managing the schedule (team rest, event priorities, upgrade priorities, etc.). One thing I noticed is that events that have more than 2 stages between seevice areas or that have stages with long route lengths will wear down tires considerably. I ran 3 long stages between a rest with soft gravel tires and the 3rd stage was disastrous because my tires were shot.
If you want you to drive the car as it was meant to be driven ...Do No Set Your Rotation To 540 . Go as high as you can to a maximum of 1080 ...the game will automatically give you the right rotation for the car you're driving...if you have your rotation at 540 for a car that uses 900 , it wont feel right , your car will be way too jerky , youll loose precision and have slower runs . You will have to adjust how you drive , but that's the whole point of having different types of cars to drive ... They are supposed to feel different from each other
I rally as a hobby I'm not the best driver not the worst I use hardcore damage and ai on 100% and still win in wrc 2 I'm not sure how really good drivers are getting on ?
Great video. But for the life of me I cannot find decent FFB settings to start with because my 20nm mige motor is just an absolute monster. Keeping self aligning torque at 100 will quite literally snap my wrist. So I guess I should just scale back your settings by 50% and see how that goes.
vsync turn off? From my knowledge vsync should be on to not permit gpu to gain more frames than you actually need and use those resources to something else
As far as the frame drop goes i think its more of a studder cause by the shader compilation. If you play a stage more the once the studders go away. New stages will studder.
Ai driver levels are all over the place. I’m on 100% and in the first Sweden rally in career I’m over 30secondes faster on almost every stage.hope they will patch this…
I think for rally, it is better to buy a separate handbrake than to use a button. I have an all-steel USB handbrake I ordered from China for 15$, which works flawlessly. Also, I do not believe assists should be co sidered at all. They are boring. Rally is about locking the wheels, dancing on the cluth in hairpins, going sideways, etc.
I am a racing game fanatic who mostly uses a controller. Been setting my eyes on this game for some time now, but like anyone who wants to try out something new, I feel a bit uneasy. I played Colin McRae DiRT 2 and DiRT 4 before and completed them, but DiRT Rally… man, that game was so difficult with a controller that I gave up on it. And that’s also the reason I haven’t played DiRT Rally 2.0 at all. I am really not sure if this game would be okay for me or not.
Give it a try you won't regret it. Theres much hate out there for the technical issues, but personally I haven't experienced much of it and driving is super fun (ps5) I also played DR1 and DR2 on controller and it was fun and a bit better looking than wrc but it was also damn difficult. Like Dark Souls on wheels. WRC is much more forgiving and a bit more arcade but challenging enough.
Great video man! I'm loving this game on my ps5. Only done 5 locations so far with Chile ( Wales meets Scotland on steroids! ) is by far the most beautiful and Mexico ( Horrendous graphics...worse than any Dirt Rally 1 location ) being by far the worst looking. There is screen tearing and frame rate issues though so I'm hoping they're patched out soon. Loving it though. I use a controller and I do well. 👍
Im enjoying it today ive gone for career and self build done 2 locations so far.. im having an issue when driving a stage a black oblong box appears in the top left corner and a solid white circle appears! While this is on screen the audio drops out and this happens 2/3 times every stage.. any ideas what this is.?? Ps5
im trying to understand how 540 degrees of rotation makes it match the one in the game? why not just leave it at default of 900 outside of the game, and then do the wheel calibration in the game and it will work for your default 900.
Ohh and on PS5, with Fanatec CSL DD PRO, and V3 pedals, the Regenerative Braking is not working! No matter how Hard I brake, IT NEVER REFILLS! Anyone else having this issue?
Great video, agree with your advice. One note though, on co-driver calling your video shows the exact opposite of what you recommend. Your video shows lowering speech and keeping all sounds at max while your narrator recommends turning down everything and keeping the speech all the way up.
I have rotation on 1080 on my csldd base and the wheel lines up perfectly. As long as you collaborate wheel in game. The game auto matches rotation for each car. On console anyway
@Mistermoleymole yer cheers mate I don't listen very well you have to set rotation on wheel before yar load game up... n yer it's working now thanks mate n keep smiling
the most important thing that most people don't understand is to turn off steering wheel centering in the control panel. People don't understand that this spr game is for arcade games.
I dont understand why a lot of people are mentioning that they are happy to preorder... just seems weirdly sus... you get the same game if you do or don't preorder (aside from preorder bonuses), and EA has a proven track record of not delivering on high preorder games. It's weird to me that people are encouraging preorders in their comments. By all means do what you like with your money, just know that you're actually damaging the product by giving them money before you have received the product... like preordering a cybertruck.
Loving the game but performance is a bit of a struggle. It won't utilize much of my CPU and then graphics settings become irrelevant, being able to reach only 70-80 fps at most no matter what
540* in driver is wrong. do not do it. better to use soft lock and calibrate you wheel. different cars have different degrees of rotation, compare some modern WRC with Mini.
Are you sure 540 degrees is right? Older cars should be using 900 or even 1080 degrees. In DR2 you can set it to 1080 and the game automatically adjusts the soft lock to match the individual car. Doesn't it do it in this new title or did you just want to simplify things for beginners considering this guide seems to be aimed more towards the "casual racer"?
About the seat adjustment part. You can choose to hide the wheel in the settings, so if you want to adjust your seat, turn the wheel off.
bump
This
Hilariously, this also turns the driver model off in replays.
Also while driving, might save you few frames@@andrewbranson8539
In which menu you can select this feature?
The wheel is always in front of the tach which is super annoying
Some tip I didn't see, but helped me a lot in DR2: Turn off your OSD/HUD. Almost entirely. You cann keep the speedometer if you want to, everything else HAS TO GO. You don't want to stress yourself with how much you're behind, or how much more is left from a stage. Also, learn to pay attention to what your co-driver SAYS instead of the sings, which just distract you.
I turn all mine in the HUD because I just feel at home BUT... Even that, I only pay attention to the Speedometer and the pace notes.
As for graphics settings: you don't need to lower so many options because here is Car Reflection option which is almost enough to change - after changing it from Ultra to Ultra Low my fps raised from 85 to 140+. Lowering Crowd option helps with many stutters
Agree. Insane how much CPU it uses
Personally I am loving the game and I'm having lots of fun playing it. Glad I pre ordered it
What was the point of preordering? What if it would have been a mess as it is for some people who can't even play it cause of how many microstutters they experience? At least they had the chance of refunding it
@@Davids6994 preordering let you play it early. Also preordering is good for people with bad internet to play the game when it comes out.
@@Davids6994 comes with the track pass early access and extra content. Super happy I preordered this game
Why u glad for pre-order? It's stupid no matter how good the game is.
Well u get an extra discount if you've played dirt rally 2 (maybe other code master games as well) and 3 days early access, also the game is a lot cheaper than triple a games atleast in canada, I paid 50 bucks instead of 80+.
When playing sim racers, I now tweak graphics, and most especially the controls. Really sucked at these games before because I was too lazy to change settings but once I was tired of not enjoying the game, I put up myself to change every bit of it for my liking. Then everything went really well and the once very frustrating experience for me became a blast to play. So to anyone who says they hate a sim racer or any racing game because they keep crashing or flipping over, know that all it takes is just tweaking the settings for you to have a great time.
Great tips. I've been playing the DIRT Rally games for a while and everything in here sticks. I DO want to mention one small thing: Co-Driver calls being set to "earliest" can be confusing for new players, and sometimes even veterans because the calls are SO early they can be misleading (if the person isn't keeping track of which turn they just hit). The earliest setting can sometimes get 1-3 turns ahead of the car position. I humbly suggest new players stick with "normal" on co-driver call-out timing.
Unfortunately, you are talking nonsense, even if you set it at the earliest, it often tells you about the relapse too late. especially when you're driving Rally 1 at full throttle
Maybe for you lol but for me Earliest is way to early lol. in fact most times they tell me WAY to much lol @@mrbeckham666
@@mrbeckham666he's only saying that it might be too much to process for beginners... And people in their late 40's like me. But earlier is probably better like you say.
I'm more reactive than someone who wants a memory test quiz, personally.
Yeah, I didn't agree with that one because by making the calls much earlier, you might forget those calls because it's understandable...you are also paying attention to a lot of elements while driving like the speed you are going, the surroundings to avoid any slight mishaps on turns, you feeling out the surface when driving, etc. So it's much better to not entirely make it really early.
Have to say im loving the game so far and very happy i preordered on the series x. Car handling is just so intuitive and once i get in the flow it’s just mesmerising. So far everything is great just a few technical hiccups from the odd stutter when racing and when the camera pans around the car at the end of a stage. Great video btw!
That's because it's arcade...
Arcade? Lol you trippin. Ive been playing dirt 2.0 for years and am pretty damn good, and thats a good sim. I think this is hard as shit lol @Focusonbehind
I know not everyone sees eye to eye on this. But I personally think that for a rally game, specifically, assists may allow people to develop bad habits that may be hard to overcome once they decide to drop the assists.
For examples some techniques may not work out well if you have full ABS and traction control on. Which could lead to a different kind of frustration when attempting to learn some of the rally techniques.
Ultimately as long as your having fun that's what counts though! :)
For the graphics versus performance: Still, to this day, things like shadows and reflections will demand most from your system. Anti-aliasing, if it's super-sampling (which I believe just multiplies rendering the image, basically upscaling the pixels), then yes it can be quite heavy, but other types of AA won't impact performance that much these days. - It's best to look at settings like shadows, shading, blending, reflecting, which is stuff even strong GPUs can still struggle with. - So that means you can mix and match for a quality and performance balance. - Also resolution is critical, as the more pixels it will need to render, the more performance will get bogged down. So if there's an option to use a lower resolution or a scaler, you can reduce that to a point that it still looks good but "waters down" the pixel-count so it's not as taxing. Even turning down a scaler to anywhere between 90% down to 75% will improve it a lot while still looking good. - Of course techniques like DLSS and FSR help mitigate quality-loss where possible.
That said, Unreal Engine is a beast in its own right, in a bad way. If Codemasters was still on EGO, I could pretty much guarantee it's very optimized, which this studio has been one of the best in. But, while it might have improved (which I don't know), this game had technical issues from the start due to their switch to UE, so it's a bit of a different story now. - All I know is that UE has always just been a drag on systems, probably even worse with 4 and 5.
Oh, and in the end, try to get it so that it "locks" to around a certain framerate and it doesn't fluctuate wildly, which is worse than just having a framerate that is on the lower side, as it throws off the consistency of the feel. And I'm talking about fluctuations of say over 10-20 fps, at least when we're speaking of 60fps or lower. The higher the average is, the less you're going to notice fluctuations (as long as it doesn't stutter or drops down significantly of course), so you want consistency.
Thanks guys!!! You really helped me get an awesome jump start with this foundational video. I used your setting and then tweaked it a little here and there to make it my own, and I am killing it on the track!! I just did a major upgrade of my sim system. I had a basic stand and Thrustmaster belt drive,( It was good). Now I have a Fanatec csl dd. 8 nm. WRC wheel and McLaren wheel, and emergency break. I upgraded to a middle of the road sim rig with seat. I took the plunge. Now me, my Oled TV, my Xbox Series X and my new Fanatec System are loving the likes of Assetto Corsa Competizione, F123 and WRC!!!
Just got my first sim setup this past week. Running a CSL DD (8nm), OLED, and Series X as well. I'm absolutely loving it and can't wait to add to the setup. I've been missing out for years not having this and can't we happier with WRC, ACC and Forza.
I think for a lot of people FWD cars are difficult to understand how to drive it proper. As in general a lot of people drive RWD cars in other games like GT3 or F1. FWD is a complete different approach, as a lot of times you need to combine throttle and brake at the same time, keep throttle through a corner in a lot of cases, and if you oversteer or loose the back you keep the throttle to catch it (with RWD you need to go off throttle). So for a lot of people it’s a brainfreeze if they are very used to RWD and try FWD in racing conditions.
hehe dont give them too many tips till my guide is out!
Also, on gravel, you need to put the break bias really far back to lock the rears and throw the car into the corners hard... and on tarmac you need to be very aggressive cause of the understeer and make your setup all about oversteer along with a good low grounded ride height... people need to not be afraid in FWD cars... FWD is more about you abusing the car while RWD is more about the car abusing you... lol
4WD is a whole different story... horrible on tarmac because of the massive understeer (even more than FWD) but amasing on Gravel because you can really use the 4-wheel power to throw it hard in every corner and push the pedal to the metal as you get out of them without losing your direction...
i prefer FWD cars in rally games. I actually drive worse in a 4WD and i dont even touch RWD cars.
The sheer enjoyment I get out of driving those stages, its such a shame people are writing it off because of the visuals
Or maybe they’re writing it off because it’s yet another unfinished piece of trash that will probably have yearly releases because it’s an EA Sports game.
@@brawler5760kinda aged like milk 😅😅
As I had the money for a wheel but not a shifter or handbrake...I use the clutch pedal as my handbrake for the time being....it actually works pretty good and after a bit of an adjustment period....it has become muscle memory.
I only had the chance to play a couple of stages as I messed my back up...but what I did play was a lot of fun.
My tip for new drivers is that driving a bit cautiously and consistently finishing stages will yield you a better result then a full send on every stage and ending up in the trees half the time. Once you practice enough and get the hang of your cars handling you can start pushing more...but remember....you are always 1 mistake from a potentially rally ending crash if you play with hardcore damage... (which i absolutely recommend).
In the front and rear wheel drive cars you'll be wanting to use left foot braking so having the handbrake on the clutch pedal is not such a good idea. You'll be far better off using a button on the wheel until you get a proper handbrake. If you've got a joystick kicking around you can always use that as a handbrake.
@@somecallmetim42 Honestly it hasn't been an issue for me thus far. I keep my left foot over the brake pedal and just kick my heel over to hit the handbrake when I need it....mostly for the FWD cars. With the RWD and 4WD cars I can usually get the car around most corners without using the handbrake at all.
The joystick advice is solid though, I might have an old flight stick kicking around here somewhere...I'll have to give it a look....and then figure out how to attach it to my racing cockpit.
Same bro
Soooooo glad I pre-ordered this game. Only had a few hours at the moment (Work 😢) but what I've played so far is friggin brilliant...loving it
Same here!
This game is a masterpiece... they really captured how rally works... the cars are very controllable but the stages are brutal... Chile is a real car killer... Rally Safari is a constant fight against the brutal road surface... the snow around the Swedish roads is so unforgiving... Rally Acropolis? Just good luck... more hairpins than turns, rough gravel, no space for a single mistake... Finland? You better not push even 1% harder than you can handle cause one crash means that "you have chosen... DEATH"...
People complain this game is easy... not even fucking close... cars are very realistic and controllable like real rally cars... but the stages, especially with the degradation are incredibly challenging... the most insane stages ever created... no other rally sim even comes close on that aspect...
those who say that this game is easy usually end up in the table below average because they don't even know what driving to the edge is
What makes me laugh the most are those pretend specialists who think that the rally 1 class should fly sideways like in RBR. there, the Rally 1 class has nothing to do with realism
@@mrbeckham666 sooo true my friend
For tire friction I recommend setting it as high as comfortably possible and turning down steering damper as as low as comfortably possible. As when the tires are off the road there should be minimal force in the wheel. All the forces and damper effect should come from the tire and suspension geometry simulation.
Could you explain what you mean by steering damper please? There's no setting under 'Vibration' for this in game.
@@oatcoatedstoat it's a sim wheel force feedback setting. Not applicable for controllers.
That FFB settings working great for me… real improvement 👍🏽
Good to hear!
Here's 3 tips from me.
1 - Turn mirror reflections off and turn car reflections to ultra low. This will give you 40-50fps alone.
2 - If your using a 4WD car then turn off traction control. This will make you faster mid corner and upon corner exit.
3 - if your new to rally start off with a mini or the WRC junior category to start with and when your comfortable try another car that has 270-300 horse power, this will help you build up to the 500bhp WRC 1 cars while getting use to the stages. Avoid the group B Audi until you have more experience and you are comfortable with rally stages as this car is an absolute monster.
Starting out I always gotta use manual shifting no matter what cause their are times you will want to stay in a gear a lot longer then automatic will do in a hairpin and with automatic it will gear up way sooner then you will want it to. But I’m using a controller and using the same controller setup I’m using on the F1 game since it’s made by the same people. But I did turn off ABS steering assist and throttle assist. If you play it starting off with every assist off you will figure out the throttle control way better and figure out when the rear is about to snap and how to keep it on the roads. I do like how narrow the roads are it’s insane.
It’s pretty decent so far, marrying Dirt 2’s handling with WRC’s content
Absolutely loving it. A lot of DR2.0 vibes in driving it self but no complaints about that. Here in a couple days I’ll switch over to realistic damage to see if it can be pushed father in consequences, but we shall see.
Realistic damage is so fun!! It's worth it!
@@AwesomeCREEPER77 It really is... you need to be extremely careful in realistic damage... yes, you don't die on the first medium speed crash but you get light damage so easily... you get light damage every time you even slightly touch anything... it's insane...
I really hope there will be some multiplayer lobbies with really long rallies where the safe drivers shine... cause the ones I've played were all few stages and small distance stages so it was mostly speed-running... and I'm not that good at that... when I push to the limit I tend to make mistakes... but I'm good at long stages to find a good flow and focus on being safe with a decent pace...
@@nikosfotidas8543 lmao on my first week of WRC generations I grinded one 30km stage speed running it to try get WR
@@SmolOperator Would you speed run it in a competition that has no do-overs? No... time trials and online competition are very different... if you did a speed run in an online lobby you would most likely have horrible results... so I don't get your point...
@@nikosfotidas8543 no I'm just saying I enjoy getting the fastest run I think is possible and if I only had one go I'd obviously slow down a bit and be a bit conservative if it was just free play I'd restart over and over
I’m having an absolute blast so far!
Just bought this Game on Sale for PS5 and I absolutely love it so far 🤩
Thanks for all the tips mate, keep up the awesome work 👍👍
Excellent info, game is one of the best rally games in the last 25yrs
Really enjoying this game so far. I like the fact that the game is still hard but in a different way.
In DR2, you can have a race ending crash in the most pathetic way possible at about 30mph, because the difficulty came from getting the car from A to B in my opinion.
In EAWRC, I think the driving is slightly easier, but it's still very tough driving on the limit and that's where the challenge comes from here. It's trying to save a second here and a few tenths there.
I'd compare it with the F1 games in that it's not horrendously difficult to drive the cars but it's quite hard to drive them as fast as possible. I think Codies have gone in a great direction with this game.
Fantastic guide once again John. Looking forward to more 😊
In EA WRC the challenge is the stages... the terrain... which is REALISTIC... rally cars are some of the most controllable cars in the world... however the terrain on which they race is brutal, just like in the game... Safari Rally is so rough in the game... Finland is a car killer... Chile is even worse, speeding downhill at 180kph and seeing a tight turn at the end... Swedish snow is so unforgiving and Norwegian Scandia stages are even more brutal... Rally Acropolis? don't even bother... it's so tight and brutal that you literally have ZERO room outside the tiny tight road...
This game is a masterpiece... they really captured rallying... good, stable cars on insanely brutal roads, fighting to survive if you want to push at the limit...
TIP: For handbrake, you can assign up to 3 different binds to it.
For instance Ive assigned Triangle, Circle, AND X, all to the handbrake. This means I dont have to go button hunting when I need it. I just have to mash the area of the buttons now. Its helped me tremendously as I'm no longer accidentally switch Views, lol
Just got it loaded on my brand new Xbox X Series. I have a Thrustmaster 383 and I had issues with the wheel rotation. Can't set it manually so I redid the calibration with about 80% of wheel lock and that seemed to do the trick. Pretty good feel. Wish I could set it manually at 540.
For those who don't got an option for DLSS under Upscale in the basic graphics settings you can use AMD's fidelity upscaler instead, the reason it don't show up is because DLSS is like it says on the side: only for compatible nvidia gpu's, for those wondering thats the rtx cards, the gtx cards don't support DLSS because of something something chipset tech AI tech something, if your card dont say RTX u can't use DLSS. also note that DLSS works best on the RTX 40-series gpu's, but all RTX cards support DLSS one way or another.
One of the BEST think I've learn about this game,you can move the cameras
you guys will be missed.....😢
what
@@BLITZKRIEG1 traxxion will no longer post videos
why@@V-Racing
Unfortunately the project was halted. I’m now over on the Race Anywhere channel where il be continuing the sim racing content, Piers is at Alpha Live and Tom is at Overtake. Thanks for the support!❤
Well that was a lie
Still the best tip (at least one that helped me the most) is to buy a cheap old joystick if you don't have a proper handbrake.
Works perfectly and using an axis instead of button is 100 times better, as you can modulate the handbrake and not just immediately lock up the wheels and spin out
That option worked quite well for me until I got myself a Thrustmaster Sparco Handbrake.
Earliest co-driver calls are not early enough, and camera angle and position should be adjustable in all camera views and be adjusted a lot more to accommodate for less optimal monitor positions. Imagine the bonnet view but angled up a bit so the road is more straight ahead, and then moving the seat either to the left or right depending on your preferences.
I have the opposite problem. The co driver calls are way too early for my taste.
Interesting, I haven't tried the latest options but I could imagine they would be too fast, just as they are too slow :D@@brawler5760
You can switch the hands and wheel off in cockpit view. Also for me adjusting the wheel to 540 in Fanalab actually does not match the hands with the wheel.
Great video, although I would do one *major* thing different as a beginner. I would start out with 0 assists and the slowest FWD car possible. Keeping the assists on and driving faster cars will create bad habits in the long run.
The last Traxion video 😞
On the part with the Seat Adjustment - you can ONLY adjust the seat in the cockpit view with the wheel, but you can turn off the wheel in the cockpit view....
Hope you guys explain how the battery exactly works in part 2!
Already written that section!👌🏼😎
@@TraxionGG brilliant! keep up the great work!
As important as any of these elements is setup, but that's of course slightly more intermediate. I hope you guys dedicate a video to that particular skill as well.
To be totally honest, you can do just as fine on stock setup 99% of the time. This is coming from a religious tuner, I will have a personal setup guide coming from a pro though.
@@AmbientMike Usually with the stock setup the suspension has no dynamics at all, and it doesnt factor in ride height as far as I know.
@@AmbientMikenah I wouldn't say just as fine...for example ride height and stiffer suspension and dampers provide a big handling difference on flat stages and surfaces like tarmac. You don't have to go very in-depth though for all settings, but some tweaks are very helpful for better stage times.
Ive been told by devs that ride height is indeed implemented, but it doesnt makes nearly as much of an impact as say in ACC or other sims. Point still stands that skill will always trump a good setup. @@petertromp8786
Another update for WRC today and another coming early next month. Looking superb on the PS5. If you're still slagging this game you need a check up from the neck up!
For wheel users
You can turn off the in-game wheel and arms, so you can use every view
Great tip, thanks! An oversight on my behalf regarding hiding the wheel and not just the arms. 😊
I mostly lose time to the stuttering and screen tearing. It's awesome when the screen freezes going 100mph and then I wind up in a ditch.
The stuttering is due to Shaders loading and should go away after you're first run through a stage. If you are still getting stuttering it might be you are using too much memory on the graphics card so turn down the textures and maybe AA. For screen tearing either get a G-sync monitor or you can turn on V-sync (which may induce a bit of controller lag) or better still set the maximum FPS to that of your monitor or set V-sync to FAST in you have an Nvidia card.
I highly suggest controller users turn down the default steering deadzone(5 for me), made it feel quite a bit better for me.
There is no steering deadzone, did you mean linearity?
@@n0body550there is a deadzone, default value is 20. Lowered mine to 10.
Apart from a few stuttering issues on the series x, I’m loving the game.
Please guys come back 🙏
Ok... 👀
@@TraxionGG erm what the sigma?
The thumbnail was very misleading - “You’re losing time here”, but the video itself barely touches on the actual driving.
Would love a car setup guide
What's going on with Traxion??? What's going on with the employees? You guys helped me with your videos when I first got into sim racing!
Traxion closed down.. no more videos
Sadly the project was halted. I’m now over on the Race Anywhere channel if you wish to follow, will be continuing to make sim racing content of all sorts. Thanks!😊
Great video. I'm really looking forward to the upcoming parts 😀
Bad news but there will never be another uploadfrom this channel...
😢
Tip 1: wait for them to patch the game.
Ps5 trial version is roughhh. Screen tearing, framerate drops and underwhelming graphics are all present. Asphalt driving could also do with some work, seemingly random loss of grip is still a thing
They already released a new patch on ps5. I've no isssues with graphics.
@neoone75 when did the patch come out? Was playing it about 6 hours ago and it was extremely rough. I'm not just bashing the game for the sake of it btw, I'm a fan of codemasters rally games
I have the 5hr trial for ps5 there and never had any issues just not sure if should buy fully on pc now as I only have a 4060
This video is outstanding! Keep the great content coming! Great tips and tricks!
Bad news but there will never be another upload from Traxxion
@@anti-tryhard they aren't going anywhere
@@rowdyrooster25 yesss i saw! im very glad
DLSS Ultra performance is not really great at lower resolutions its really intended for 4k, at 1080p its trying to upscale around 1/3 of 1080p from memory which makes it look pretty blurry.
However up to the person how much artifacting and blurryness you can tolerate.
Why set rotation to 540? If you just set it to your max wheel rotation for your base then run the calibrate option and use softlock, doesn't that set everything up to match every car individually?
@@atticushexcel9567 this option you can found in the game menu, exist since dirt rally 1 if I’m not wrong. Set your wheel rotation at 900 or 1080 like older cars, and use soft lock option. This will match always for each individual cars the proper wheel rotation.
Really nice option and really surprise the guys who do this tips and tricks about configuration didn’t know that…
540 wheel rotation will be trash for older cars
@@popeye_r_fr099 think it's only possible on PC though just in case anyone reading is on console
Yer I can't get it to work on xbox
@@Mistermoleymole
The calibration and soft lock are also an option for PS5 and were also in Dirt rally and Dirt 2.0 👍.
Ok ppl I got it to work had to set wheel base to 1080 before you launch game... then it's all sweet duh
For anyone who wants more interior fov with wheel but don’t want to see the wheel in game there is a setting to remove the wheel and arms
I'm running on epic settings without any issues. Some glitches in the mirrors. Really surprised that they've launched a polished game in 2023.
Please provide career tips. Managing the schedule (team rest, event priorities, upgrade priorities, etc.). One thing I noticed is that events that have more than 2 stages between seevice areas or that have stages with long route lengths will wear down tires considerably. I ran 3 long stages between a rest with soft gravel tires and the 3rd stage was disastrous because my tires were shot.
Yeah and it reminds you of everything except changing tyres at service. 🤦♂️
Thanks, perfect video
Handbrake on clutch pedal when using a wheel + pedal box. I only shift using the steering wheel's pedals.
Very good guide!
If you want you to drive the car as it was meant to be driven ...Do No Set Your Rotation To 540 . Go as high as you can to a maximum of 1080 ...the game will automatically give you the right rotation for the car you're driving...if you have your rotation at 540 for a car that uses 900 , it wont feel right , your car will be way too jerky , youll loose precision and have slower runs . You will have to adjust how you drive , but that's the whole point of having different types of cars to drive ... They are supposed to feel different from each other
I rally as a hobby I'm not the best driver not the worst I use hardcore damage and ai on 100% and still win in wrc 2 I'm not sure how really good drivers are getting on ?
Thanks Bro for the video so helpful.
Nice video, great tips !
Great video. But for the life of me I cannot find decent FFB settings to start with because my 20nm mige motor is just an absolute monster. Keeping self aligning torque at 100 will quite literally snap my wrist. So I guess I should just scale back your settings by 50% and see how that goes.
vsync turn off? From my knowledge vsync should be on to not permit gpu to gain more frames than you actually need and use those resources to something else
As far as the frame drop goes i think its more of a studder cause by the shader compilation. If you play a stage more the once the studders go away. New stages will studder.
Hi guys, thanks for the videos. Would you happen to have a ffb settings recommendation for the thrustmaster t818? Thanks!
Ai driver levels are all over the place. I’m on 100% and in the first Sweden rally in career I’m over 30secondes faster on almost every stage.hope they will patch this…
Awesome explanation. Any FANATEC DD1 settings? Thnx❤
I was just about to ask the same. I've got a good base setup but its always good to see how someone else's feels
I'm thinking Codemaster's deprecated Adrenalin engine might have been a better choice to develop as opposed to UE.
I think for rally, it is better to buy a separate handbrake than to use a button. I have an all-steel USB handbrake I ordered from China for 15$, which works flawlessly.
Also, I do not believe assists should be co sidered at all. They are boring. Rally is about locking the wheels, dancing on the cluth in hairpins, going sideways, etc.
I am a racing game fanatic who mostly uses a controller. Been setting my eyes on this game for some time now, but like anyone who wants to try out something new, I feel a bit uneasy. I played Colin McRae DiRT 2 and DiRT 4 before and completed them, but DiRT Rally… man, that game was so difficult with a controller that I gave up on it. And that’s also the reason I haven’t played DiRT Rally 2.0 at all. I am really not sure if this game would be okay for me or not.
Give it a try you won't regret it. Theres much hate out there for the technical issues, but personally I haven't experienced much of it and driving is super fun (ps5) I also played DR1 and DR2 on controller and it was fun and a bit better looking than wrc but it was also damn difficult. Like Dark Souls on wheels. WRC is much more forgiving and a bit more arcade but challenging enough.
C'mon Elfyn!!! Smashing S2!
Hey can you share all of your fanatec settings?
4:43 you can also hidden the cockpit hands and wheel in the settings
thanks for feedback tip
Your concept of channel was best, why you disappear?
Great video man!
I'm loving this game on my ps5.
Only done 5 locations so far with Chile ( Wales meets Scotland on steroids! ) is by far the most beautiful and Mexico ( Horrendous graphics...worse than any Dirt Rally 1 location ) being by far the worst looking.
There is screen tearing and frame rate issues though so I'm hoping they're patched out soon.
Loving it though.
I use a controller and I do well.
👍
Hmm, o don’t have any of these issues, mine is the Regen braking is busted, and AUTO clutch, but I’m on Fanatec equipment. Enjoy
@@iamzeusandthisisthetruth4229 Are you on the PS or PC?
It needs patching for sure but it's perfectly playable.
Wait, set to 540 in the fanatec control panel? What about the cars that have more than that of steering lock?
Cool race 🤙🏆🥇💯❤
So what are you fanatec wheel settings. That screenshot doesn't show the full thing and seems odd that several settings are off.
Bought the game today
Im enjoying it today ive gone for career and self build done 2 locations so far.. im having an issue when driving a stage a black oblong box appears in the top left corner and a solid white circle appears! While this is on screen the audio drops out and this happens 2/3 times every stage.. any ideas what this is.?? Ps5
Very strange, I’m afraid I haven’t heard about that one. Good luck with it, hopefully there’s a fix 🙏🏼
Tip one, wait for an update.
im trying to understand how 540 degrees of rotation makes it match the one in the game? why not just leave it at default of 900 outside of the game, and then do the wheel calibration in the game and it will work for your default 900.
I set my clutch to ebrake for rally games specifically
Ohh and on PS5, with Fanatec CSL DD PRO, and V3 pedals, the Regenerative Braking is not working! No matter how Hard I brake, IT NEVER REFILLS! Anyone else having this issue?
Great video, agree with your advice. One note though, on co-driver calling your video shows the exact opposite of what you recommend. Your video shows lowering speech and keeping all sounds at max while your narrator recommends turning down everything and keeping the speech all the way up.
I have rotation on 1080 on my csldd base and the wheel lines up perfectly. As long as you collaborate wheel in game. The game auto matches rotation for each car. On console anyway
That interesting I can get it to work.... I've tried on 1080 and auto but every car needs adjusting....
@@rockeight turn soft lock on
@Mistermoleymole yer cheers mate I don't listen very well you have to set rotation on wheel before yar load game up... n yer it's working now thanks mate n keep smiling
@@rockeight no problem. It was the same in all the dirt games.
my thrustmaster tmx force feedback wheel doesn’t show up on the detected devices on xbox, does it not work with the game?
the most important thing that most people don't understand is to turn off steering wheel centering in the control panel. People don't understand that this spr game is for arcade games.
Also don't forget to remove deadzones on controller!
I dont understand why a lot of people are mentioning that they are happy to preorder... just seems weirdly sus... you get the same game if you do or don't preorder (aside from preorder bonuses), and EA has a proven track record of not delivering on high preorder games. It's weird to me that people are encouraging preorders in their comments. By all means do what you like with your money, just know that you're actually damaging the product by giving them money before you have received the product... like preordering a cybertruck.
how do you clear bindings??
Loving the game but performance is a bit of a struggle. It won't utilize much of my CPU and then graphics settings become irrelevant, being able to reach only 70-80 fps at most no matter what
The Headcam is fine as a wheel user just disable Driver Hands & Wheel in the settings!
540* in driver is wrong. do not do it. better to use soft lock and calibrate you wheel. different cars have different degrees of rotation, compare some modern WRC with Mini.
Are you sure 540 degrees is right? Older cars should be using 900 or even 1080 degrees. In DR2 you can set it to 1080 and the game automatically adjusts the soft lock to match the individual car. Doesn't it do it in this new title or did you just want to simplify things for beginners considering this guide seems to be aimed more towards the "casual racer"?
Probably didn’t know this option. It is far more easy to use soft lock than change for each car especially for older one
Anyone know if this will be SteamDeck compatible?
what happened to the channel ? the next video never came out 😢
Apparently their parent company went bust.
Sadly the project was halted. You can find me over on the Race Anywhere channel now if you enjoyed the content, cheers!
I really hate that they removed the tripple monitor support. I really hope the hold up their promise of bringing VR support.
triple screen support is coming, they clarified that.
where did they day that?@@AmbientMike
On 7:55 I felt down exactly at the same place 😅