Very very heavy wipeout. I'm 57, learned to surf at 14 in Ocean City, MD. Lived in Ocean Beach, SD CA for about 12 years and honed my skills. Travelled the world for waves, but don't consider myself a big wave surfer. Now I'm landlocked and enjoy these postings to bring back memories & kind of relive it. With Jetski Rescue, inflatable vests, tow in surfing with foot straps things changed dramatically. ALmost to the point where I question if it as surfing anymore. Mad respect to all chargers, then & now. But there is something about having to paddle in, stand up, control the board with your feet, not straps, and if you get in trouble you are the only one that can get you out (Your crew not withstanding). But this vid, to really listen to his comments. Paddle in surfing at Jaws. Fighting that offshore howling wind, just to catch the wave. "I couldn't turn my board." He caught the monster, but couldn't surf it. Too much length. Then calmly dealing with the rest of the set waves. "OK, a few more waves to take on the head before I'm good." Then, after dealing with a hellacious wipeout, he knows & willingly BODYSURFS into BOULDERS to get his board. Not a beach, not the channel, not back outside, he bodysurfed 30+ foot waves into BOULDERS to get his board. The average person watching this has no concept of what this looks or feels like from water level. So many times, I explain these wipeouts to non-surfers. They nod their head as if they get it. Then I challenge them, hold your breath during the next wipeout. They think OK, I can do this. Then I grab their shoulders & rag doll em, shake me back & forth. Every single one stops, even when I warn em ahead of time. Then I say, "Imagine a 2 wave hold down." I'm surprised surfers don't keep a pony bottle of gas at Nazare/Mavericks/Jaws/Shippies. That might be just enough air to prevent some of the drownings. On a hip pocket, it shouldn't get in the way. Mad respect to all chargers. My point is consider the severity of what these surfers are calmly saying. To them, at that time, it was no big deal. To any of us, at any time, it's life threatening/changing.
i take this chance to thank you for all the extraordinary videos you have been sending me during these last 6 months. fantastic channel you have. hugs form anna from brazil.
Those vests are a great safety net for surfers these days. Was body surfing the Wedge on a big swell 15 to 20 ft back in 1987 ate it on a 18’ set wave, the impact knocked the wind out of me, then was pushed down (when the Wedge is really big and at medium or low tide the water is actually pretty deep) and getting tossed around and doing so many somersaults and since I had no air to begin with my lungs were burning and as I was swimming to the top and like I need O2 now! and then feeling the doom when I got dragged down again, finally made it to the top and was hyperventilating when I surfaced and as I look up a wave the same size broke right in front of me and I thought I was dead for sure but miraculously I did one somersault and it spit me out, I was so lucky .I have surfed many other big waves in California and in Hawaii and that was by far the closest to death I ever got. But it would be hard to bodysurf with one of those vests on.
A-Frame-Wedge - at least you knew the beach was close even too close at times but still not a fun day until you find air. Mine came at Hookipa Beach a couple three of miles before Jaws and bigger then the break could take in shitty conditions, the whole bay was a close out with the wrong board. Never seen a break jack up so big so fast, the pros we're on the cliffs watching two idiots scratching to get outside. The rip was so bad it took an all out paddle just to stay in the line up, not good, chopper rescue time. No option but to paddle in since catching a wave in was impossible and even if you made the bottom you would end up in the rocks the last place you wanted to be. It only took taking two on the head before pronning in, The weird part was not wiping out but diving as deep as possible before the wave broke on your head and still getting pounded and thrashed because the water was so shallow over the reef . My leesh didn't break, hallelujah.
i have to repeat my post this video the english he speaks and the explanation about what was the stuff with him is extraordinary wow. i wouldn´t never dare to do something like that even when i was young and surfed.
big wave boards need to have aerodynamics built in, for those waves and conditions. i doubt anyone has tested a 10 foot 15 pound surf board in a wind tunnel
No. The board wasn't turning because the bottom is either flat, concaved, or vee. Turning the big board is no problem with Geoff McCoy's Loaded Dome bottom curves on his designs. Plus all those fins are stiff. Geoff McCoy's single fin Gull Fin holds better than anything, because he shapes his rails right. The board also didn't want to turn because the wide point is forward of center. That also causes wind to get underneath it. All shapers are amateurs compared to Geoff McCoy.
Its so funny how he acts like it wasnt that bad but in actual fact he honestly thought he was going to die..he got hogtied by his leash and when he finally came up and the next one hit he thought it was over and nearly blacked out.. he was so shocked he was shaking and crying for hours after.. theres footage of him shaking and crying... why cant he just admit it was as bad as it was...
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Very very heavy wipeout. I'm 57, learned to surf at 14 in Ocean City, MD. Lived in Ocean Beach, SD CA for about 12 years and honed my skills. Travelled the world for waves, but don't consider myself a big wave surfer. Now I'm landlocked and enjoy these postings to bring back memories & kind of relive it.
With Jetski Rescue, inflatable vests, tow in surfing with foot straps things changed dramatically. ALmost to the point where I question if it as surfing anymore. Mad respect to all chargers, then & now. But there is something about having to paddle in, stand up, control the board with your feet, not straps, and if you get in trouble you are the only one that can get you out (Your crew not withstanding). But this vid, to really listen to his comments.
Paddle in surfing at Jaws. Fighting that offshore howling wind, just to catch the wave. "I couldn't turn my board." He caught the monster, but couldn't surf it. Too much length. Then calmly dealing with the rest of the set waves. "OK, a few more waves to take on the head before I'm good."
Then, after dealing with a hellacious wipeout, he knows & willingly BODYSURFS into BOULDERS to get his board. Not a beach, not the channel, not back outside, he bodysurfed 30+ foot waves into BOULDERS to get his board. The average person watching this has no concept of what this looks or feels like from water level.
So many times, I explain these wipeouts to non-surfers. They nod their head as if they get it. Then I challenge them, hold your breath during the next wipeout. They think OK, I can do this. Then I grab their shoulders & rag doll em, shake me back & forth. Every single one stops, even when I warn em ahead of time. Then I say, "Imagine a 2 wave hold down." I'm surprised surfers don't keep a pony bottle of gas at Nazare/Mavericks/Jaws/Shippies. That might be just enough air to prevent some of the drownings. On a hip pocket, it shouldn't get in the way.
Mad respect to all chargers. My point is consider the severity of what these surfers are calmly saying. To them, at that time, it was no big deal. To any of us, at any time, it's life threatening/changing.
i take this chance to thank you for all the extraordinary videos you have been sending me during these last 6 months. fantastic channel you have. hugs form anna from brazil.
what a horrible sensation below water - terrible - fantastic video tks a lot.
Those vests are a great safety net for surfers these days. Was body surfing the Wedge on a big swell 15 to 20 ft back in 1987 ate it on a 18’ set wave, the impact knocked the wind out of me, then was pushed down (when the Wedge is really big and at medium or low tide the water is actually pretty deep) and getting tossed around and doing so many somersaults and since I had no air to begin with my lungs were burning and as I was swimming to the top and like I need O2 now! and then feeling the doom when I got dragged down again, finally made it to the top and was hyperventilating when I surfaced and as I look up a wave the same size broke right in front of me and I thought I was dead for sure but miraculously I did one somersault and it spit me out, I was so lucky .I have surfed many other big waves in California and in Hawaii and that was by far the closest to death I ever got. But it would be hard to bodysurf with one of those vests on.
A-Frame-Wedge - at least you knew the beach was close even too close at times but still not a fun day until you find air. Mine came at Hookipa Beach a couple three of miles before Jaws and bigger then the break could take in shitty conditions, the whole bay was a close out with the wrong board. Never seen a break jack up so big so fast, the pros we're on the cliffs watching two idiots scratching to get outside. The rip was so bad it took an all out paddle just to stay in the line up, not good, chopper rescue time. No option but to paddle in since catching a wave in was impossible and even if you made the bottom you would end up in the rocks the last place you wanted to be. It only took taking two on the head before pronning in, The weird part was not wiping out but diving as deep as possible before the wave broke on your head and still getting pounded and thrashed because the water was so shallow over the reef . My leesh didn't break, hallelujah.
i have to repeat my post this video the english he speaks and the explanation about what was the stuff with him is extraordinary wow. i wouldn´t never dare to do something like that even when i was young and surfed.
Wow. Amazing!
big wave boards need to have aerodynamics built in, for those waves and conditions. i doubt anyone has tested a 10 foot 15 pound surf board in a wind tunnel
Wipeouts only who have been there knows the feeling of the washing machine
matt is wild
Thats a top 4 wipe out for sure. he's young so his body can handle the eatit . The board was too big for his weight
Looks like he was a hair to far forward on his board to possibly sink the tail also?
this guy is crazy to ride waves that heavy, but at the same time there is Peahi and Teahupoo
You guys gotta make one of these videos on Jay Moriarity
the thing is the surfer has to be interviewed
You see how that's a problem right?...
i'm happy for the guy at 2:37.. he almost fell into the rocks. That could have been deadly
ups!
never trust anyone who wears his ears tucked into his hat
ahh o my god That's crazy!!!!
More wipeout!!!!!!!!!!!!
good story.. not a whiner!
idk about u guys but i was kinda expecting like a series of wipeouts not just the one.
It's a series, go look.
Dues paid.
No. The board wasn't turning because the bottom is either flat, concaved, or vee. Turning the big board is no problem with Geoff McCoy's Loaded Dome bottom curves on his designs. Plus all those fins are stiff. Geoff McCoy's single fin Gull Fin holds better than anything, because he shapes his rails right. The board also didn't want to turn because the wide point is forward of center. That also causes wind to get underneath it. All shapers are amateurs compared to Geoff McCoy.
Nestor Batlle more bullshit kook
😊
This is too painful to watch!
too mad
:OOOOOOOOOO
Damn he was too far forward
fuck...
Its so funny how he acts like it wasnt that bad but in actual fact he honestly thought he was going to die..he got hogtied by his leash and when he finally came up and the next one hit he thought it was over and nearly blacked out.. he was so shocked he was shaking and crying for hours after.. theres footage of him shaking and crying... why cant he just admit it was as bad as it was...
3rd
scaring wave - my god. terrible.
Rescued by a jetski... That's cheating.
then you can eat it
Throw that board away, and get a Geoff McCoy.