man can we please have more of this stuff, this is the stuff that interests us a surfers, fk wiping out is what surfing is all about we've all been hammered, drilled to the bottom and spun around, listening to everyone elses stories is the greatest yarns ever..
I have ridden a few big waves but nothing even approaching what this man has ridden or seen. To hear him tell this story, and hear the fear in his voice, gives me the chills as well. This is HEAVY! If you have any aspirations of riding big waves you need to listen intently. This is the price of admission. PEACE!
Having the breath knocked out of you is much more serious than what most people think. When we were little we would get slammed to the ground on our backs and it was impossible to draw a breath. The wind doesn't get knocked out of you, what happens is you temporally paralyze your diaphragm. The diaphragm is what is called an autonomous muscle much like your heart. You don't have to do anything to fire that muscle like you do with your bicep, for instance. The diaphragm expands and contacts which inflates and deflates your lungs, without it we suffocate. When you want to control your breathing, concentrate on your diaphragm you can almost feel the blood rushing to those tired muscles. Cheers!
It's just so fkn crazy when the bravest and greatest athletes in the history of mankind tell stories where they're actually terrified for a minute or two. Twigs is one of my favorite of all time
I spent two days SUPing with Twiggy on the right in my profile picture, me and him very uncrowded 6to 8 foot Indo at 16 seconds. waves, sharing perfect rights, he was on a SUP he was cross training. Great dude,!!IWhen we exchanged names he said his name was TWIGGY, and mte I won a Maverics comp.. , I was like holy shit GTB >?? got lots of great info from him while surfing. He said anyone over 40 who surfes real waves should cross train on a SUP, its his best core workout. Beautious video...I would be dead..Wear flotation.
Insane story, but you survived from sheer optimism I feel. World story so few can attest to, but glad to say you are here to battle again, thanks to your own optimism.
Amazing that he had that one quick, instantaneous opportunity to get a breath while being sucked up, out and over the falls. All by itself, that, for me, is one of the worst feelings of all, especially if the bottom is shallow or coral.
I wonder if this is how Mark Foo died. Mark Foo had a very, very similar wipeout at Mavericks (go watch the video), his board stops mid-face and he belly flops, these guys are moving so fast that it almost certainly knocked the wind out of him, just like with Twiggy, and maybe, just like Twiggy, he thought "I'm gonna die, that's it." The only difference is, he didn't get that second breath over the falls, and he did die.
Euphemism I think that's probably exactly what happened. Twig is not exaggerating at all when he thought he was dead, and it was over. He's lucky and savvy he got that breath. The ocean has no conscious. Mistakes can go wrong fast, and be fatal. Twig has a gnarly story to tell !
@@sleepinglion1192 I'm learning about how skin divers hold their breath for so long. They don't exhale while underwater. Just having the air (oxygen) in your lungs can prolong your downtime. Not sure if inhaling before a wipeout is instinctual, but I'm going to practice it in big surf.
I've had like a 30 second hold down once, from only a 6 foot wave, and i was so fucking scared. This story is the scariest fucking thing, I've ever heard. If this was me, I would have panicked and drowned even with a full breath I reckon.
Hahahahah. Twigs funny. Talking about how he popped up like a cork. I got a question though, how do a lot of surfers end up being able to pop their heads out the back like that, while goin over the falls?? Do they need to swim to that point, or does it just naturally happen?? I've seen it a lot with big waves.
If you fall on the face of a powerful wave like he did, and don't penetrate through and out the back, you follow the same path up and over as the surface water does. Notice how he says 'up and over in slow motion, as you do' - this happens all the time. It doesn't have to be a really massive wave either, just a strong, hollow wave.
Damn. And I Paniced while eating it on a 6-8 ft. wave in florida......yeah🤣.... But it was a miracle he popped his head up going over to get that breath .He would have no doubt drowned otherwise.
ja , you take all the ruffians u dont realy like , send them to Africka , mix in some lions buffaloes and leopards , let them breed for 300 years , and ja , they are otherwize !
Amazing that you still ride and shape flat bottomed, concaved bottom, and vee bottom boards with shallow mutliple fins, wrong rockers, thin sharp rails, foiled out thin tails and noses on big waves. Geoff McCoy's designs and tow designs prevent boards spinning off and out like that. Mind boggling ignorant and stubborn corrupt ego filled surf industry. Get a Geoff McCoy. Email the man himself, and you will ride waves like that, and turn easy as pie and go faster so easily.
You are the ignorant one... this two time world champion has multiple of the most respected shapers working for him shaping boards for some of the best big wave riders going. www.twigsurfboards.com/twigshapers.html
This is a great series. This surfer's description is the best too. Amazing story.
agreed. amazing the minute level of detail they can recall for how quick the moments flash by on video.
yeah he really describes the experience with great detail. Not just brainless surfer jargon.
man can we please have more of this stuff, this is the stuff that interests us a surfers, fk wiping out is what surfing is all about we've all been hammered, drilled to the bottom and spun around, listening to everyone elses stories is the greatest yarns ever..
Ben Gravy has done a few survival style, you should check his channel. He almost drown in Hawaii and El Slammo in New Jersey.
This is one of the worst ones I've seen, to think his life was riding on that little bit of breath going over the falls is crazy
Yeah, kinda:)))
"i Just enjoyed the ride" lol
Twiggy is so good a telling stories
I have ridden a few big waves but nothing even approaching what this man has ridden or seen. To hear him tell this story, and hear the fear in his voice, gives me the chills as well. This is HEAVY! If you have any aspirations of riding big waves you need to listen intently. This is the price of admission. PEACE!
Having the breath knocked out of you is much more serious than what most people think. When we were little we would get slammed to the ground on our backs and it was impossible to draw a breath. The wind doesn't get knocked out of you, what happens is you temporally paralyze your diaphragm. The diaphragm is what is called an autonomous muscle much like your heart. You don't have to do anything to fire that muscle like you do with your bicep, for instance. The diaphragm expands and contacts which inflates and deflates your lungs, without it we suffocate. When you want to control your breathing, concentrate on your diaphragm you can almost feel the blood rushing to those tired muscles. Cheers!
It's just so fkn crazy when the bravest and greatest athletes in the history of mankind tell stories where they're actually terrified for a minute or two. Twigs is one of my favorite of all time
Ben Gravy has some good ones too bro...yewwwww
"And from there i just enjoyed the ride" fukin well done mate :)
out of all the videos of surfers describing a massive wipeout this is the best one yet!!
I spent two days SUPing with Twiggy on the right in my profile picture, me and him very uncrowded 6to 8 foot Indo at 16 seconds. waves, sharing perfect rights, he was on a SUP he was cross training. Great dude,!!IWhen we exchanged names he said his name was TWIGGY, and mte I won a Maverics comp.. , I was like holy shit GTB >?? got lots of great info from him while surfing. He said anyone over 40 who surfes real waves should cross train on a SUP, its his best core workout. Beautious video...I would be dead..Wear flotation.
Best wipeout story I have ever heard by far.
Best verbal description yet. I lived that with him.
Best one ever! Guy is an absolute dude.
I just enjoyed the ride... Twiggy you LEGEND
One of the craziest ones for sure.
Insane story, but you survived from sheer optimism I feel. World story so few can attest to, but glad to say you are here to battle again, thanks to your own optimism.
Glad you got that breath going over the falls twiggy... indeed it was a game changer.
I could imagine all of that great description!
what a dude, goin from 'your dead' to 'grabbed a breath and enjoy the ride'!!
I’m not a surfer, these clips are engaging. Well done.
Huge wave surfers Are crazy
Change my mind 👍
Well they train a lot...
That was a gnarly looking wave.Unreal courage from this Aussie,that you really never hear about.Twiggy,WHO DAT BRAH?.
Richard Conner he's south african, and a big wave world champion! Must not keep up with surfing very much?
Did you seriously think this oke was an Aussie?
Damn this scared the shit out of me.
This is scary to even listen to. Imagine being him !
I love the second breath you get sometimes as you get scooped back over the falls. I guess some waves are forgiving
This one scares me the most - getting the wind knocked out of you on a wave like that...
also bad to dislocate shoulders , makes swimming a bitch !
Twiggy should write a book.
". . . like you do at a time like this, i just started laughing." haha.
Amazing that he had that one quick, instantaneous opportunity to get a breath while being sucked up, out and over the falls. All by itself, that, for me, is one of the worst feelings of all, especially if the bottom is shallow or coral.
that one breath you caught probably saved your life, amazing!
Living Legend!!
You can only truly appreciate a story from a surfer if you grew up with surfer friends.
Enjoyed the ride. Only a sufer knows the feeling
def our SA hero
I wonder if this is how Mark Foo died. Mark Foo had a very, very similar wipeout at Mavericks (go watch the video), his board stops mid-face and he belly flops, these guys are moving so fast that it almost certainly knocked the wind out of him, just like with Twiggy, and maybe, just like Twiggy, he thought "I'm gonna die, that's it." The only difference is, he didn't get that second breath over the falls, and he did die.
Euphemism I think that's probably exactly what happened. Twig is not exaggerating at all when he thought he was dead, and it was over. He's lucky and savvy he got that breath. The ocean has no conscious. Mistakes can go wrong fast, and be fatal. Twig has a gnarly story to tell !
@@sleepinglion1192 I'm learning about how skin divers hold their breath for so long. They don't exhale while underwater. Just having the air (oxygen) in your lungs can prolong your downtime. Not sure if inhaling before a wipeout is instinctual, but I'm going to practice it in big surf.
Ive always felt that foo's leash got caught/stuck at the bottom on something? Idk
@@hunterdavis3003 There's a video of someone who crashed at Chopes whose leash did get hung and he had to break it .
Ok.... scariest description of near death wipeout yet...
Insane, Twiggs
lol I died "I kindof hit on my hands and knees like cat cat style like this "hahahyeww
Great story telling. thanks!
Hoooo brah dat Day was gnar gnar paddled out on my 5’6 outrigger. I was Jackie Chan ing da lip. Katoosh!!!!!!! Chop chop
legend
Yea, I completely agree, I was thinking the same thing as he was explaining it.
Anyone who cant handle a wipeout like that should not be any where near a wave like this.They are pros for a reason.
damn. crazy story.
Damn. Glad he was wearing a vest!
I've had like a 30 second hold down once, from only a 6 foot wave, and i was so fucking scared. This story is the scariest fucking thing, I've ever heard. If this was me, I would have panicked and drowned even with a full breath I reckon.
"just enjoyed the ride" Not many people can say that about getting wiped out on a fuck off wave
Hahahahah. Twigs funny. Talking about how he popped up like a cork. I got a question though, how do a lot of surfers end up being able to pop their heads out the back like that, while goin over the falls?? Do they need to swim to that point, or does it just naturally happen?? I've seen it a lot with big waves.
it's a matter of luck , I think.
If you fall on the face of a powerful wave like he did, and don't penetrate through and out the back, you follow the same path up and over as the surface water does. Notice how he says 'up and over in slow motion, as you do' - this happens all the time. It doesn't have to be a really massive wave either, just a strong, hollow wave.
unbelievable
Great stuff! Heavy water there, go Twiggy yeeeooohhh!
Damn. And I Paniced while eating it on a 6-8 ft. wave in florida......yeah🤣....
But it was a miracle he popped his head up going over to get that breath .He would have no doubt drowned otherwise.
lol felt like that today in the east coast 6 feet
this guys are fucking nuts. legends.
Anybody see the face on the tree behind??? Near his shoulder
South Africans are a different breed 🤣
ja , you take all the ruffians u dont realy like , send them to Africka , mix in some lions buffaloes and leopards , let them breed for 300 years , and ja , they are otherwize !
proud to be south african. GO TWIGGY!!!!
Full on badass
Gnarly bro.
insanity.
does anyone know wat happened to the surfboard????
I would have died...
😳👈my face when I watched this
100 meters under water???
how did he survive that....
+jakelocker38 well, he got that last breath. if not for that, he said he wouldn't have survived
jakrt b why do people reply to each other years laters
YEAH!!!!
sooow nahleee
for 100 meters while underwater, not 100 meters deep.
duuuuudee that's the worst wipeout in history, shit was legitelly creepy af
savage
How fast was he going?? 30 knots?? This is the worse wipeout I've seen on camera bar none. So lucky he got that breath....
Amazing that you still ride and shape flat bottomed, concaved bottom, and vee bottom boards with shallow mutliple fins, wrong rockers, thin sharp rails, foiled out thin tails and noses on big waves. Geoff McCoy's designs and tow designs prevent boards spinning off and out like that. Mind boggling ignorant and stubborn corrupt ego filled surf industry. Get a Geoff McCoy. Email the man himself, and you will ride waves like that, and turn easy as pie and go faster so easily.
You are the ignorant one... this two time world champion has multiple of the most respected shapers working for him shaping boards for some of the best big wave riders going. www.twigsurfboards.com/twigshapers.html
Cat style
first...
“Cavitating”. Hmmm
1:30
mabe a loose box fin , or cracked !
Kinda fucked up
Maybe lose the talking face and show the ride with slo-mo and rewinds with his descriptions...