Your video is MUCH BETTER than The Home Depot video. I haven't changed a switch before and it was nice that you mentioned to be sure that none of the wire insulation was in there before tightening the screw and the camera angle was much better to see EVERYTHING you were doing. Thanks :D
I try to offer as much exhaustive detail as possible to avoid any guessing or assumptions. I know it can be frustrating to take on a project and not have all the answers ahead of time. I'm pleased to hear that you felt my video was better than the Home Depot video!
OMG thanks so much for posting this video. It is exactly what I wanted to do and I accomplished it!! It was easy. I was so afraid to try cause it’s electrical work, but I didn’t want to hire an electrician just because I wanted a new light switch. I am so proud. Saved me some money as well! Thanks again! Now I want to change an electrical outlet LOL.
Be careful. You're don't want to get in trouble for miswiring switches that have unsafe conditions. You don't need a license to wire your own house, but the whole concept of having a license is so you can charge for services. As a result they have codes to follow. When you sidestep the codes, you open yourself up to getting sued if something goes wrong (such as an electrical fire), even if it wasn't technically your fault. Aluminum wiring might fall into that category. or not tightening the wires enough could land you in hot water. Be careful.
I have a 3 light switch outlet in my kitchen. The first switch is a Lutron Dimmer and controls the can lights. The can lights can also be turned on/off from a switch on the other side of the room. I just replaced the middle light switch controlling my center island lighting with a Lutron Dimmer Switch, but am running into a problem. I cannot figure out what to do with the green wire of the 2nd dimmer switch because the ground coming out of the wall is already attached to the green wire from the 1st dimmer switch.
Great, thanks! Question: The Leviton switch your have here, I got one too from the Depot but it says “not for LED”. Does that mean I can’t use it if I’m installing LED pots in ceiling or if current fixture has led light bulbs?
Christopher Robin are you referring to the paddle switch that installed? The left two switches are both Luton. The Leviton paddle switch is a standard dumb (not smart) mechanical switch that will work with a incandescent, CFL, or LED light bulb. I am personally using this single pole paddle switch for an outdoor LED floodlight with a motion sensor.
Erik Asquith Yes, I am installing that same paddle switch. But, as I stated, it says on box “not for LED”, which happen to be the kind of bulbs that I changed over to from regular incandescent.
Got one of those three function switches . For light , celing heater and vaccum ( I guess that's what it's called ? ) Is it possible even probable that even though one of these funstions ( vacuum ) still work , that it can still the cause for the other two things not to work ? Thanks
Scott Truskowski either black wire can go to either brass screw on a single pole light switch. The light switch will operate correctly regardless of which brass screws the hot and switched wire are connected to. The bare copper ground wire should only go to the green screw.
Hi Erik... need some assistance... replacing switches and outlets in my kitchen. It appears the copper ground wire is screwed on to the metal switch box in the wall. Is this Okay? Should I be contacting an electrician to replace these... or can I just reattach the red and black wires... and not worry that the ground is attached to the box and not the switch. Thanks!
Deanne Biron the ground wire should always be fastened to a metal junction box, as in your case. The ground wire should also be fastened to each switch as well (which doesn’t appear to be the case for you). If the switch or outlet mounting straps are made of metal where the screws fastens them to the junction box, they would also be grounded, since the entire junction box is grounded via the ground wire (this is how the switches and outlets were all setup in my previous house built in 1941). However, if the switch or outlet is not securely mounted to the junction box, the ground may be poor or nonexistent (which a dedicated ground wire would solve). I have also seen both dumb and smart switches with plastic mounting straps where the screw goes through and would not be ground the switch by simply screwing it to the junction box. I suggest adding a ground wire to each switch and then using a wire nut to connect them all together to a pig tail (short piece of ground wire). Then you can connect the pig tail to the ground wire coming into the metal junction box, or attach it via a green ground screw to the junction box itself. This would meet the current code requirements and improve the (your) safety.
We just moved into our new apartment. Current switches are u responsive. My new light switch has 3 switches that look just like this one in the video, but my new switch has: 1. For light 2. For fan. 3. For something else that have no idea what it does. Do I install this 3 light switch the same way you did in the video? Also, I don't have a volt meter to check to see if the electrical socket is hot... I can turn off the breaker but how do I proceed if I don't have a fancy volt meter that checks to see if the electricity is off?? Thank you in advance
bill jones is the junction box made of plastic or metal? If it’s metal, the box may be grounded, and the screws from the switch would intern ground the switch. However, for the metal junction box to be ground you would either need a ground wire attached to the metal junction box or the use of metal clad cable (aka BX cable) connected using a metal connector.
rams714 rams714 yes they are. One black wire is the hot/line wire carrying power, the other is the switched wire going to the light. It does not matter which brass screw/terminal you connect the black wires to on a single pole switch, as long as you do not connect them to the green ground screw.
Hey, I have a question. I just took out the old light switch on my back door porch light. The power is off at the breaker. There is NO GROUND wire connected to the grounding screw. ??? I gently pulled out more of the wires shoved in that switch box and there are 3 HUGE red plastic cap covers and it seems the copper wire (ground wire) has been capped into one of those plastic screw caps. Is that safe? Is it maybe cause it's the end of the circuit in my kitchen (that's where this light switch is located near my back door) The house is from 1995 and I've been here 14 years without a problem. But I have no idea if this is ok? Is it safe? Do I need to do something else to make it safe?? Thanks
Jane Hyde is the electrical box metal or plastic? If the ground wire is connected to a metal box, then the switch will be grounded via the screws that fasten the switch to the metal box. However, if the ground wire comes in and is capped with a wire but, then it sounds like the box, if metal, isn’t grounded. You should see at least 2 bare copper wires in the box, assuming his is a single pole switch (meaning it’s not a 3-way switch). 1 bare copper wire should be coming into the box from the main (or likely another junction box down the line) and another bare copper wire should be going to the light fixture. The two bare copper wires should be connected together using a wire but and a pigtail (small 6 inch base copper wire) should be connected to that same wire nut and also connected to the ground screw on the light switch. This would ground the light fixture and the switch to the main load center. If you have a metal box, then another pigtail should be screwed to the actual metal box and connected to that same wire but to ground it. However, if you have a plastic box, this last requirement does not apply.
Jason Craft the order does not matter on a single pole switch. The switch is just braking the flow of electricity when turned off, which will work regardless of the brass terminal you connect the hot and switched wires to.
If you have a red wire you likely have a 14-3 wire. This means that you should have a red and black wire that are both hot, a white which is neutral, and a bare or green wire which is ground. For example you could use a 14-3 wire with a two 3-pole switch and light setup or a ceiling fan where you would like to control the lights and fan independent with two separate switches. If your switch has two red wires and a ground wire or one red, one black, and a ground wire connected, you can swap them over to the new switch. However, before you change out your existing switch, make sure the screws are all brass colored screws, which typically indicates a single pole switch. If you have a black and brass screw, you likely have a 3-pole switch, and you'll need to replace it with a new 3-pole switch instead of a single pole switch.
I tried installing a Wifi Light switch but had some issues with the wiring. There is a total of 9 wires, 3 black wires, 3 ground wires and 3 White wires. Out of the '3' black wires, '1' gives a reading of 120v(hot wire), '2' have a reading of '0'.....the ground wires give a reading of '0'..... The 3 Neutral wires give out some different reading. 1 of them gives a reading of 120, another gives a reading starting at 120 then the reading starts to go down by 1 volt at a time. The last white wire gives a reading of zero. If I connect the Wifi plug wires into the home wires, not only does the plug turn off the room light, it also kills power to most of the outlets around the house.
I want to switch mine to this style but my question is..on my switches some work backwards like down is on and up is off. Was that because the black wires were placed on the wrong way?
Do you have to buy the voltage detector? If you switch off the breaker and the light switch doesn’t work isn’t that an indication that it’s not hot or live anymore?
s1r3n1971 good question. If there is only one black or red wire (hot/line wire) and one white wire (neutral) in the junction box for a single pole switch, turning off the breaker and verifying the switch no longer turns on the light should typically be sufficient. However, if for some reason the bulb had failed right at that moment you had tested turning on the light switch to verify the correct breaker was turned off (and was not), the voltage detector would have been necessary. Another scenario where a voltage detector would be necessary is when you have other black or red wires and white wires in the same junction box - it’s possible that some other wires are controlled via a different breaker, thus some other switch, receptacle, etc. may still be energized/live/hot.
Is there any way of only replacing the plastic component? A piece of the light switch broke and now its not turning off. Is there anyway of just replacing the plastic component without replacing the whole thing?
Alpha Wolf the simple answer is that it doesn’t matter on a mechanical single pole switch. One black wire is the line wire/hot wire and the other is the switched wire connected to your light fixture. The switch is just allowing the flow of electricity from the line wire to the switched wire when turned on, and interrupting that flow of electricity when the switch is turned off. Since this is a standard dumb (not smart) mechanical single pole switch, you can attach either black wire to either terminal/screw/back wire on a single pole switch. Also, don’t forget to attach the bare copper ground wire to the green ground screw on the single pole switch to ground it.
Amitt Ramgattee no, a ground is not necessary for a light switch to function. However, it is mandatory per national electric code (as well as your local code) for safety.
Erik do you have a video that shows how you put the face plate on? i dont see a screw hole for one so i assume the leviton is a press on/snap on plate? and also, do the black wires "wrap" around the screw in a clockwise manner under that little square metal piece under the screw like the ground wire does?? looks like you just pushed them straight in?? or are they actually wrapping around the screw and i just cant see it due to the little metal cover piece?? thanks! great video.
Rita J I have a video showing how to install a screw-less wall plate here: ruclips.net/video/b-pcSTTYAts/видео.html When connecting the black wires to this particular switch you can either wrap them around the screw or back wire them. However, when connect the black wires using the back wiring method you can only insert a straight piece of wire under the little metal piece. On this particular switch you tighten down the screw to sandwich the wire between that little metal piece and the metal contacts underneath (which you cannot easily see in this video). If you would rather wrap the black wire clockwise around the screw like I did for the ground wire, you would wrap the black wires clockwise between the screw head and the little metal piece (you would NOT wrap the wire under the little metal piece). Once the black wire is wrapped around the screw clockwise, you would then tighten it down so the black wire is sandwiched between the screw and the little metal piece. Does this clarify things for you?
Erik Asquith thank you Erik! What about the question on the black wires curling around the screw I also mentioned above?? Really appreciate your responses!!
oh lord. i was looking at it on my phone app at first and didn't scroll down to realize there was more written below the link you sent. My bad! SORRY! duh! :-/ Again, i really appreciate your help!!!!! i have about 100 total in outlet receptacles and light switches i'd like to change over from an ugly cream color (which reminds me of stained nicotine lol) to white, plus change my switches to rockers in the process. maybe even add a couple outlets with USBs too. Yesterday I had our local electricians come out Mr. Sparky here in Northwest Arkansas and he quoted me.... gulp*... $5000 ! So I really appreciate these videos. :)
totally clarifies it. just wondering though what the difference is between back wiring them and just wrapping them around the screw? is there a pro or a con to either?
It would not be safe to undo the ground, line, or switched wire prior to turning off the breaker. Prior to switching off the breaker you should 1. use a non-contact voltage detector to verify that the switch or receptacle is live (this will confirm that your non-contact voltage detector is working to begin with) 2. switch off the breaker 3. use a non-contact voltage detector to confirm that the switch or receptacle is NOT live (you could turn on your switch, or plug in a working lamp to the receptacle to verify that they are NOT live, but that does not technically confirm that all wires, switches, and receptacles that in sharing the same junction box are NOT live, unless the only wires in the junction box are directly connected to switch or receptible you plan on removing/replacing) 4. disconnect line, switched, neutral (if in use) and then ground wire (assuming you can determine your line and switched wire, but if not, I recommend removing the ground last to maintain ground continuity while handing the line, switched , and potential neutral wires)
@@ErikAsquith I asked because I don't have that tester. I'll play it safe and get one. Thanks for the reply. I just did my kitchen over and have to change the face plates and switches to match the color. ⚡👍🏻
From safety and risk perspective I strongly encourage you or anyone else to turn off the breaker and verify that power is indeed off in the junction box that you'll be working in by using a non-contact voltage detector. If you do not turn off the breaker, there is a risk of electric shock that can cause your body harm, and could even result in death. So please be safe and turn off the breaker before working with electricity, and when in doubt, turn off the main breaker in your load center (main panel) to turn off the electricity to the entire dwelling.
You typically just need to turn off the breaker at the main or sub panel (if you have one) to cut the power going to the junction box for your light switch. However, If you are having trouble locating the correct breaker that cuts power to your light switch, or you think there are potentially other live wires in the same junction box, then shutting off the main breaker is recommend to be on the safe side.
Danni Lynn the current national electric code (NEC) requires a light switch to be grounded. It is needed for safety, but as you probably already know, the light switch will still function without the ground. I recommend connecting the the ground to your light switch or contacting an electrician to verify the ground is properly connected all the way back to the electrical panel ground bus. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Jacobs monroe white is the neutral wire. Typically single pole switches do not use neutral wires. Given that you only have a single black wire, your white wire is either acting as your hot or switched wire. If an electrician performed this switch install, they should have marked the white wire with a piece of black electrical tape to make anyone aware that the white wire is not acting as a normal neutral wire, and is instead, hot.
When I installed the rocker switch - when the switch is in on state light is off and when in switch is in off state the light is on, what could be the issue ?
Why did you not connect the wires into the new switch like they were on the old switch. IE on the old switch, they had inserted the wires into the little holes. On the new switch, you clamped them down w/ the screw mechanism. Why wouldn't you insert the wires into the little holes like the old one did?
cavewomaninil good question. The new switch has a different style back wire option then the old switch, which is what I had used. If the new switch had the same back wire design as the old switch, then that’s what I probably would have used. However, the new switch back wire option is not as fast to install the wires (which can just be pushed in on the old switch), but the new switch back wire design is a bit more secure and can’t be pulled out by twisting the switch back and forth as you pull the wire out. I should probably do a video showing all the different variations in switch wiring options.
Pro tip: If the light is only controlled by one switch then the switch is a single pole, if the light is controlled by two switches then you must use a "three way" switch. If a house was built before 2011 then you were allowed to have non-grounded switches and have a white wire, the 2011 NEC code required all switches in dwellings to be grounded and both wires are black.
I HATE my push switches. I’m looking to get some rocker switches. Most if the time I have to hit it more than twice. B/c they are too sensitive and I turn it an and off. So annoying.
You didn't show the hardest part- attaching the face plate. This is the part that is tough for me, especially when installing a timer controlling three lights when the box is really tight for space...
Great video. Clear. I found the cover plates come with screws that are too long to fit snugly. Do you drill a hole for the excess screw to fit, or do you go buy 5/16" 6-32 Cover screws. (i cant find less than 40 in a pack and it seems such a waste.)
Did you do this? How did you find the neutral outlet? I hace a bunch of neutrals tied up. How can I tell which is the one for my switch? Or any would work?
I'm switching from the new style, back to the old. After 11 years 50% of the plates on this style of light switches in the house have FALLEN OFF. Not to mention the electric shocks. No thank you.
I am having similar issue. Not falling off yet but the rocker itself starts to warp. Looks terrible. Not sure if it can be bent back or need new switch. they do look better, at least for a while.
hello Mr Erik, good weekend!I am a seller from Amazon. I am interested in your video in RUclips.Very nice and detailed video!I also sell smart product in Amazon. Do you want to use our goods?If so,we can send the sample to you soon,looking forward to your early reply!
mooky what else would you have liked to seen in the video? Were there specific differences with your light switch wiring that you needed more detail on?
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Wow! To think I needed a man to help me! Your video was clear, informative, and quick. The power of DIY
Your video is MUCH BETTER than The Home Depot video. I haven't changed a switch before and it was nice that you mentioned to be sure that none of the wire insulation was in there before tightening the screw and the camera angle was much better to see EVERYTHING you were doing. Thanks :D
I try to offer as much exhaustive detail as possible to avoid any guessing or assumptions. I know it can be frustrating to take on a project and not have all the answers ahead of time. I'm pleased to hear that you felt my video was better than the Home Depot video!
Erik,
Well explained and demonstrated.
I appreciate it. You should have your own DYI channel. You have the voice and know how!👍
Thank you for the video. I just returned from HD with the replacement switch and it took less than five minutes to replace.
Easy to follow, straight and to the point...no extra bullshit, nice 👌
OMG thanks so much for posting this video. It is exactly what I wanted to do and I accomplished it!! It was easy. I was so afraid to try cause it’s electrical work, but I didn’t want to hire an electrician just because I wanted a new light switch. I am so proud. Saved me some money as well! Thanks again! Now I want to change an electrical outlet LOL.
Awesome. Now I feel like I can update mine. Definitely going to try and I’ll pick up one of those testers too. Thank you.
This is amazing! Thank you for sharing this!
This is fantastic. I was worried about having to do this but the video was very helpful. Thx!
Thank you, that was very clear and easy instructions.
Thanks for the video. Helped a lot !👍🏻
Thanks, I feel confident to do this now!
Super helpful! Thank you!
Very informative and practical. Thanks and greetings from Algeria :-)
Yay! Thank you. Very helpful. No need for electrician. I could do this as a side hustle!! lol
Wendy Jaques I aim to please. Be safe and have fun with your side hustle.
Be careful. You're don't want to get in trouble for miswiring switches that have unsafe conditions. You don't need a license to wire your own house, but the whole concept of having a license is so you can charge for services. As a result they have codes to follow. When you sidestep the codes, you open yourself up to getting sued if something goes wrong (such as an electrical fire), even if it wasn't technically your fault. Aluminum wiring might fall into that category. or not tightening the wires enough could land you in hot water. Be careful.
@@iREZARECTEM dude I'm pretty sure she was just kidding lol
@@iREZARECTEM you took it seriously?
@@skorpyonayts1169 , As serious as a heart attack. I wanted to make it a side hustle lol
Thanks Buddy helped allot very straight foward !
😭😭😭 thank you. i couldn’t figure out why switch wires were going inside while other videos showed them going around the side screws.
yap that did it. Old switch broke. Cost me 2 dollars for a new switch and 10 min of time. Electrician would have charged 100 bucks.
Awesome! Glad I could help you save $98.
Yes. Thank you as well. Saved me a ton of $$. Thank you
Your Vid saved me at least $125. Thank you much...
Yeah I charge 175 to replace
Those two black wires you showed, could that go either of the screws?
Perfect’! Thank you so much! I’m trying to become a DIY king and this is very helpful’
Thank you for the help!!!! 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👍🏽
Big Dogg you’re welcome and thanks for watching!
Thank you that was simple!
this video is gold
Thank you I’m going to do this
Good explanation 👍
Yes…thank you!!! I think I just save a hundred dollars just for the installation. 👏👏👏
great video
Thanks for the video!
I have a 3 light switch outlet in my kitchen. The first switch is a Lutron Dimmer and controls the can lights. The can lights can also be turned on/off from a switch on the other side of the room. I just replaced the middle light switch controlling my center island lighting with a Lutron Dimmer Switch, but am running into a problem. I cannot figure out what to do with the green wire of the 2nd dimmer switch because the ground coming out of the wall is already attached to the green wire from the 1st dimmer switch.
Hey for the dimmer switches is it the exact same process or are there any different steps? Thanks
2:00 ahh ok so in this situation the goal is to not "pull out".
Great vid thx man.
Thank you!
Great, thanks!
Question: The Leviton switch your have here, I got one too from the Depot but it says “not for LED”. Does that mean I can’t use it if I’m installing LED pots in ceiling or if current fixture has led light bulbs?
Anyone?
Christopher Robin are you referring to the paddle switch that installed? The left two switches are both Luton.
The Leviton paddle switch is a standard dumb (not smart) mechanical switch that will work with a incandescent, CFL, or LED light bulb. I am personally using this single pole paddle switch for an outdoor LED floodlight with a motion sensor.
Erik Asquith Yes, I am installing that same paddle switch. But, as I stated, it says on box “not for LED”, which happen to be the kind of bulbs that I changed over to from regular incandescent.
Got one of those three function switches . For light , celing heater and vaccum ( I guess that's what it's called ? ) Is it possible even probable that even though one of these funstions ( vacuum ) still work , that it can still the cause for the other two things not to work ? Thanks
Thank you.
What if the rocker screw holes for the face plate are larger?
What happens if you don't tighten the screws after inserting the wires into the back of the switch?
Thumbs up for the demo and instruction, but more light from the right side would have been better.
Hey Erik, does it matter whether I put the hot wire on the top or bottom screw?
Can a regular light switch be replaced with a dimmer or is an electrician required. It is for Can lights that are dimmer capable.
thank you
Does it matter what black wire goes on which screw?
Scott Truskowski either black wire can go to either brass screw on a single pole light switch. The light switch will operate correctly regardless of which brass screws the hot and switched wire are connected to.
The bare copper ground wire should only go to the green screw.
What if one wire white and one green?
I can't find the word "top" on mine.
Nevermind. I finally found it. 👍
Hi Erik... need some assistance... replacing switches and outlets in my kitchen. It appears the copper ground wire is screwed on to the metal switch box in the wall. Is this Okay? Should I be contacting an electrician to replace these... or can I just reattach the red and black wires... and not worry that the ground is attached to the box and not the switch. Thanks!
Deanne Biron the ground wire should always be fastened to a metal junction box, as in your case. The ground wire should also be fastened to each switch as well (which doesn’t appear to be the case for you).
If the switch or outlet mounting straps are made of metal where the screws fastens them to the junction box, they would also be grounded, since the entire junction box is grounded via the ground wire (this is how the switches and outlets were all setup in my previous house built in 1941). However, if the switch or outlet is not securely mounted to the junction box, the ground may be poor or nonexistent (which a dedicated ground wire would solve).
I have also seen both dumb and smart switches with plastic mounting straps where the screw goes through and would not be ground the switch by simply screwing it to the junction box.
I suggest adding a ground wire to each switch and then using a wire nut to connect them all together to a pig tail (short piece of ground wire). Then you can connect the pig tail to the ground wire coming into the metal junction box, or attach it via a green ground screw to the junction box itself. This would meet the current code requirements and improve the (your) safety.
We just moved into our new apartment. Current switches are u responsive.
My new light switch has 3 switches that look just like this one in the video, but my new switch has: 1. For light
2. For fan. 3. For something else that have no idea what it does. Do I install this 3 light switch the same way you did in the video?
Also, I don't have a volt meter to check to see if the electrical socket is hot... I can turn off the breaker but how do I proceed if I don't have a fancy volt meter that checks to see if the electricity is off??
Thank you in advance
Mine only has the 2 black wires nothing going to the ground. There is a white wire capped off,is it already grounded?
bill jones is the junction box made of plastic or metal? If it’s metal, the box may be grounded, and the screws from the switch would intern ground the switch. However, for the metal junction box to be ground you would either need a ground wire attached to the metal junction box or the use of metal clad cable (aka BX cable) connected using a metal connector.
THANKS!!!
Creative Monster thanks for watching!
Are the black wires interchangeable? Like whay if by accident you out the bottom wire on top and vise versa
rams714 rams714 yes they are. One black wire is the hot/line wire carrying power, the other is the switched wire going to the light. It does not matter which brass screw/terminal you connect the black wires to on a single pole switch, as long as you do not connect them to the green ground screw.
Hey, I have a question. I just took out the old light switch on my back door porch light. The power is off at the breaker. There is NO GROUND wire connected to the grounding screw. ??? I gently pulled out more of the wires shoved in that switch box and there are 3 HUGE red plastic cap covers and it seems the copper wire (ground wire) has been capped into one of those plastic screw caps. Is that safe? Is it maybe cause it's the end of the circuit in my kitchen (that's where this light switch is located near my back door) The house is from 1995 and I've been here 14 years without a problem. But I have no idea if this is ok? Is it safe? Do I need to do something else to make it safe?? Thanks
Jane Hyde is the electrical box metal or plastic? If the ground wire is connected to a metal box, then the switch will be grounded via the screws that fasten the switch to the metal box. However, if the ground wire comes in and is capped with a wire but, then it sounds like the box, if metal, isn’t grounded. You should see at least 2 bare copper wires in the box, assuming his is a single pole switch (meaning it’s not a 3-way switch). 1 bare copper wire should be coming into the box from the main (or likely another junction box down the line) and another bare copper wire should be going to the light fixture. The two bare copper wires should be connected together using a wire but and a pigtail (small 6 inch base copper wire) should be connected to that same wire nut and also connected to the ground screw on the light switch. This would ground the light fixture and the switch to the main load center. If you have a metal box, then another pigtail should be screwed to the actual metal box and connected to that same wire but to ground it. However, if you have a plastic box, this last requirement does not apply.
Erik Asquith I have no box behind my switch🤔 there is just a huge hole in the wall. Should I put a box in that hole?
Does it matter which order the black wires are in the back? Say if for some instance you got them switched around by accident.
Jason Craft the order does not matter on a single pole switch. The switch is just braking the flow of electricity when turned off, which will work regardless of the brass terminal you connect the hot and switched wires to.
Hello, Can I replace a dimmer with the on off switch you used?
Rick Olson yes you can.
One of me two blk wires is red does that make a difference?
If you have a red wire you likely have a 14-3 wire. This means that you should have a red and black wire that are both hot, a white which is neutral, and a bare or green wire which is ground. For example you could use a 14-3 wire with a two 3-pole switch and light setup or a ceiling fan where you would like to control the lights and fan independent with two separate switches. If your switch has two red wires and a ground wire or one red, one black, and a ground wire connected, you can swap them over to the new switch. However, before you change out your existing switch, make sure the screws are all brass colored screws, which typically indicates a single pole switch. If you have a black and brass screw, you likely have a 3-pole switch, and you'll need to replace it with a new 3-pole switch instead of a single pole switch.
I tried installing a Wifi Light switch but had some issues with the wiring. There is a total of 9 wires, 3 black wires, 3 ground wires and 3 White wires. Out of the '3' black wires, '1' gives a reading of 120v(hot wire), '2' have a reading of '0'.....the ground wires give a reading of '0'..... The 3 Neutral wires give out some different reading. 1 of them gives a reading of 120, another gives a reading starting at 120 then the reading starts to go down by 1 volt at a time. The last white wire gives a reading of zero. If I connect the Wifi plug wires into the home wires, not only does the plug turn off the room light, it also kills power to most of the outlets around the house.
My house is old can I wrap one of the wires around the screw?
Yes
I want to switch mine to this style but my question is..on my switches some work backwards like down is on and up is off. Was that because the black wires were placed on the wrong way?
had similar issue for me, have you figured it out ?
Do you have to buy the voltage detector? If you switch off the breaker and the light switch doesn’t work isn’t that an indication that it’s not hot or live anymore?
s1r3n1971 good question. If there is only one black or red wire (hot/line wire) and one white wire (neutral) in the junction box for a single pole switch, turning off the breaker and verifying the switch no longer turns on the light should typically be sufficient. However, if for some reason the bulb had failed right at that moment you had tested turning on the light switch to verify the correct breaker was turned off (and was not), the voltage detector would have been necessary. Another scenario where a voltage detector would be necessary is when you have other black or red wires and white wires in the same junction box - it’s possible that some other wires are controlled via a different breaker, thus some other switch, receptacle, etc. may still be energized/live/hot.
@@ErikAsquith is it dangerous to not have a volt detector and not shut off the power while changing it?
Domoo LeDay yes, there is certainly risk involved. Turning off the correct breaker is a must to avoid being electrocuted.
@@ErikAsquith I electrocuted myself 😂😂 I did something wrong cause it's not working right now.
My only critique is that you should let the viewers know if it matters or not which power wire goes to what part of the light switch.
Is there any way of only replacing the plastic component? A piece of the light switch broke and now its not turning off. Is there anyway of just replacing the plastic component without replacing the whole thing?
Unfortunately no, you would need to replace the entire switch. Most switches are ultrasonically welded and are not serviceable.
@@ErikAsquith Thank you. I appreciate it!
How do you suppose to know which black wire to put in which slot ?!
Alpha Wolf the simple answer is that it doesn’t matter on a mechanical single pole switch.
One black wire is the line wire/hot wire and the other is the switched wire connected to your light fixture. The switch is just allowing the flow of electricity from the line wire to the switched wire when turned on, and interrupting that flow of electricity when the switch is turned off. Since this is a standard dumb (not smart) mechanical single pole switch, you can attach either black wire to either terminal/screw/back wire on a single pole switch.
Also, don’t forget to attach the bare copper ground wire to the green ground screw on the single pole switch to ground it.
is the ground mandatory to have for this switch to work ?
Amitt Ramgattee no, a ground is not necessary for a light switch to function. However, it is mandatory per national electric code (as well as your local code) for safety.
If i have a neutral do I need to just cover it up ?
Erik do you have a video that shows how you put the face plate on? i dont see a screw hole for one so i assume the leviton is a press on/snap on plate? and also, do the black wires "wrap" around the screw in a clockwise manner under that little square metal piece under the screw like the ground wire does?? looks like you just pushed them straight in?? or are they actually wrapping around the screw and i just cant see it due to the little metal cover piece?? thanks! great video.
Rita J I have a video showing how to install a screw-less wall plate here: ruclips.net/video/b-pcSTTYAts/видео.html
When connecting the black wires to this particular switch you can either wrap them around the screw or back wire them. However, when connect the black wires using the back wiring method you can only insert a straight piece of wire under the little metal piece. On this particular switch you tighten down the screw to sandwich the wire between that little metal piece and the metal contacts underneath (which you cannot easily see in this video). If you would rather wrap the black wire clockwise around the screw like I did for the ground wire, you would wrap the black wires clockwise between the screw head and the little metal piece (you would NOT wrap the wire under the little metal piece). Once the black wire is wrapped around the screw clockwise, you would then tighten it down so the black wire is sandwiched between the screw and the little metal piece. Does this clarify things for you?
Erik Asquith thank you Erik! What about the question on the black wires curling around the screw I also mentioned above?? Really appreciate your responses!!
Rita J I answered your wiring question in the above comment as well.
oh lord. i was looking at it on my phone app at first and didn't scroll down to realize there was more written below the link you sent. My bad! SORRY! duh! :-/ Again, i really appreciate your help!!!!! i have about 100 total in outlet receptacles and light switches i'd like to change over from an ugly cream color (which reminds me of stained nicotine lol) to white, plus change my switches to rockers in the process. maybe even add a couple outlets with USBs too. Yesterday I had our local electricians come out Mr. Sparky here in Northwest Arkansas and he quoted me.... gulp*... $5000 ! So I really appreciate these videos. :)
totally clarifies it. just wondering though what the difference is between back wiring them and just wrapping them around the screw? is there a pro or a con to either?
helpful oh yes.
I almost paid an electrician to replace my switches
Soooo close!
Would it be safe to undo the ground first without the breaker off?
It would not be safe to undo the ground, line, or switched wire prior to turning off the breaker.
Prior to switching off the breaker you should
1. use a non-contact voltage detector to verify that the switch or receptacle is live (this will confirm that your non-contact voltage detector is working to begin with)
2. switch off the breaker
3. use a non-contact voltage detector to confirm that the switch or receptacle is NOT live (you could turn on your switch, or plug in a working lamp to the receptacle to verify that they are NOT live, but that does not technically confirm that all wires, switches, and receptacles that in sharing the same junction box are NOT live, unless the only wires in the junction box are directly connected to switch or receptible you plan on removing/replacing)
4. disconnect line, switched, neutral (if in use) and then ground wire (assuming you can determine your line and switched wire, but if not, I recommend removing the ground last to maintain ground continuity while handing the line, switched , and potential neutral wires)
@@ErikAsquith I asked because I don't have that tester. I'll play it safe and get one. Thanks for the reply. I just did my kitchen over and have to change the face plates and switches to match the color. ⚡👍🏻
Does it matter if you switch your line wire and switch wire?
No, the line and switched wires can be interchanged on a single-pole switch without introducing any issues.
can you do this without turning off the power breaker?
From safety and risk perspective I strongly encourage you or anyone else to turn off the breaker and verify that power is indeed off in the junction box that you'll be working in by using a non-contact voltage detector. If you do not turn off the breaker, there is a risk of electric shock that can cause your body harm, and could even result in death. So please be safe and turn off the breaker before working with electricity, and when in doubt, turn off the main breaker in your load center (main panel) to turn off the electricity to the entire dwelling.
can i turn off the power for the room with the lightswitch im changing or the whole house
You typically just need to turn off the breaker at the main or sub panel (if you have one) to cut the power going to the junction box for your light switch. However, If you are having trouble locating the correct breaker that cuts power to your light switch, or you think there are potentially other live wires in the same junction box, then shutting off the main breaker is recommend to be on the safe side.
@@ErikAsquith ok will do
Does it matter in what way I put the wire into the crew?
Los Hijos De Miguel yes, you always want to wrap the stripped copper wire around the screw clockwise.
@@ErikAsquith thank you
It looks like someone capped my ground wire...? Is that not needed?
Danni Lynn the current national electric code (NEC) requires a light switch to be grounded. It is needed for safety, but as you probably already know, the light switch will still function without the ground. I recommend connecting the the ground to your light switch or contacting an electrician to verify the ground is properly connected all the way back to the electrical panel ground bus. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Why doesn't this rocker switch follow the same color wires as a regular switch?
Jacobs monroe what color wires does a regular switch have?
@@ErikAsquith my single pole switch has white, green, and black.
Jacobs monroe white is the neutral wire. Typically single pole switches do not use neutral wires. Given that you only have a single black wire, your white wire is either acting as your hot or switched wire. If an electrician performed this switch install, they should have marked the white wire with a piece of black electrical tape to make anyone aware that the white wire is not acting as a normal neutral wire, and is instead, hot.
@@ErikAsquith Thank you.
When I installed the rocker switch - when the switch is in on state light is off and when in switch is in off state the light is on, what could be the issue ?
Is it possible that the switch is upside down and you can flip it right side up?
Thanks did you turn off the breaker first?
Victor dARKO yes, I had mentioned that you would need to turn off the circuit breaker 21 seconds into the video.
Erik Asquith haha ok i fast forwarded the beginning. Thank you for replying
do i really need to turn off the breaker? i dont want to have to reset my clock
Unless you want to be shocked
😂😂😂
Lol yes sweetheart
Time change is this guys ultimate nemesis
What happens if there’s no ground wire
👩🔧⚡
Why did you not connect the wires into the new switch like they were on the old switch. IE on the old switch, they had inserted the wires into the little holes. On the new switch, you clamped them down w/ the screw mechanism. Why wouldn't you insert the wires into the little holes like the old one did?
cavewomaninil good question. The new switch has a different style back wire option then the old switch, which is what I had used. If the new switch had the same back wire design as the old switch, then that’s what I probably would have used. However, the new switch back wire option is not as fast to install the wires (which can just be pushed in on the old switch), but the new switch back wire design is a bit more secure and can’t be pulled out by twisting the switch back and forth as you pull the wire out. I should probably do a video showing all the different variations in switch wiring options.
Exactly what I was wondering. I guess guessed. Haven't tried it yet. Kinda scared. Lol
Pro tip:
If the light is only controlled by one switch then the switch is a single pole, if the light is controlled by two switches then you must use a "three way" switch.
If a house was built before 2011 then you were allowed to have non-grounded switches and have a white wire, the 2011 NEC code required all switches in dwellings to be grounded and both wires are black.
Thank you!!!! You saved me!
Jeff, how would you transition a pre 2011 switch to the new grounding standard.
I have 4 screws: copper, copper, black and green.
I HATE my push switches. I’m looking to get some rocker switches.
Most if the time I have to hit it more than twice. B/c they are too sensitive and I turn it an and off.
So annoying.
You didn't show the hardest part- attaching the face plate. This is the part that is tough for me, especially when installing a timer controlling three lights when the box is really tight for space...
I have a separate video available showing the installation of the face plate ruclips.net/video/b-pcSTTYAts/видео.html
@@ErikAsquith I see you already have them all aligned properly both side to side and in and out. That's where I run into difficulty.
Great video. Clear. I found the cover plates come with screws that are too long to fit snugly. Do you drill a hole for the excess screw to fit, or do you go buy 5/16" 6-32 Cover screws. (i cant find less than 40 in a pack and it seems such a waste.)
hmmm i found another video that shows how to cut the screws with my stripper tool. : )
IMHO the new style switch IS NOT better than the old style . I have several in my home that have broke.
I’m changing for a smart outlet 😂
Did you do this? How did you find the neutral outlet? I hace a bunch of neutrals tied up. How can I tell which is the one for my switch? Or any would work?
I'm switching from the new style, back to the old. After 11 years 50% of the plates on this style of light switches in the house have FALLEN OFF. Not to mention the electric shocks. No thank you.
I am having similar issue. Not falling off yet but the rocker itself starts to warp. Looks terrible. Not sure if it can be bent back or need new switch. they do look better, at least for a while.
@@NealCorbett1 It starts by warping, then eventually will just bend right off.
okay... i can't do it. haha
Joyce : quick and easy replacement. The only issue I had was removing the wires from the old switch. I twisted and turned as he instructed
Don’t use the backstabbing method for terminating the light swicth
is this because you had them come out partially or fully?
@@ErikAsquith 1 they come out easily. 2 (more of a plug than light switch thing) if you try to use them with the rated amperage they just melt
hello Mr Erik, good weekend!I am a seller from Amazon. I am interested in your video in RUclips.Very nice and detailed video!I also sell smart product in Amazon. Do you want to use our goods?If so,we can send the sample to you soon,looking forward to your early reply!
What kind of products do you have?
Oh they don't replace these outlets! They are not old.
joe mama
Wow. You like skipped over a lot of stuff buddy. Not helpful here.
mooky what else would you have liked to seen in the video? Were there specific differences with your light switch wiring that you needed more detail on?
@@ErikAsquith the guy didn't even answer lol
Now…don’t do that again.