James, that was excellent! Thanks! Your channel definitely one of the most educational on RUclips - as a fellow content creator, I sincerely appreciate the effort that I know goes into your video production. And congrats on the family getting a Golden Chisel Award for 2018.
Wow, did I ever need this video. My parallel clamps are in terrible shape, and I didn't know how to get the glue off of them. I didn't think that acetone would soften the glue like you showed. And then waxing the bars to prevent the glue sticking is brilliant. This video really saved my parallel clamps, as I hate using them like they are now. Thanks a ton, James. This is so helpful!
Mr. Chemist 👨🔬, This is the perfect video for you. I’m thinking that you had fun planning it and doing the experiment 🧪! Great information. Thanks King Family 😘
you were 100 percent correct on the use of a brass brush However I find the best method to clean the bars is to use a brass wire wheel brush on a drill.. it will take care of the glue on the bar in minutes and no chemicals needed
Scott Kaye sounds really like a good idea. Where did you get the brass wire wheel? Also, what could you use to cover the clamps before doing the clamping? Maybe blue painter’s tape or something cheaper?
Thanks for the tips James. I try to keep mine clean and have some success with using wax and using a lot less glue than you use. I’ve never had a joint fail yet. I also clean it off the clamps immediately which makes cleaning up easier too.
Dear James, A great tip for keeping one's clamps in perfect working order. Probably an item neglected by most just as saw blades but need not be overlooked. Even I have learned something with regards to which lubricant is most appropriate, many thanks. Very well done. Kind regards.
I’ve started using strips of grease paper over whatever I’m clamping. I’m not producing work anything like the scale you guys are and it saves me having to use toxic solvents etc. Thanks for all your insights and tips.
1 done, 23 to go . . . I like to do all of those things but when doing a glue up I also like to wrap saran wrap around the clamp bar to try to keep glue off of it. Thanks for another great video.
Good information on cleaning.... only thing I question is having silicone in the shop... if you ever end up with finishing issues of "fish-eye"- look back to contamination with silicone... your process is now on my to do list for 40 some parallel clamps and 70-80 F-style.... thanks
Carl Hillard I agree on the silicone concern. Need to be cautious and control it. Suggest one of the dry lubricants such as used on your table saw gears
To use layman’s terms. Think of silicone as as oil, whereas teflon is a polymer, think very slippery. Oils can cause “fisheyes” in water based systems but also in oil based systems where they are not miscible.
An excellent video James. I hadn’t tried your experiment so appreciate the fact that you’ve done the work for me. Your chemistry background came in handy. If I do get glue on my clamps I now know which solvent to use. Acetone is a solvent I always have on hand. I also didn’t know that WD 40 made a silicone spray. I’ve been using a different brand. After watching I realize that I now need to add terry cloth towels to my list on needs for the shop. Thanks for all the information. Two points - First make sure that the silicone spray doesn’t drip onto a surface where glue and finish will be applied in the future because they won’t stick & Second I try to prevent glue from getting on my clamps, especially those below the glue up, by covering them with wax paper. It’s a cheap preventive measure that saves me a lot of cleaning.
Great video, thank you! The product description links seem to be broken. Is it possible to re-link? I'm specifically looking for that red silicone mat (today). Thanks!
I’ve always used a steel brush in a grinder (with a face mask, work gloves, and hearing protection). Less than 2 minutes a clamp. Paraffin on the clean rails and wipe off. Never a problem.
I used warm water with a wire brass brush attachment on a corded drill it's work well, after seeing this video i'll try acetone to see if it's work better. Awesome video as usual sir !
I like using paste wax on the bar to but, for the internal mechanism I prefer Blaster Advanced Dry Lube with Teflon. It's only $4.49 at Homedepot, It also works great to prevent rust on saw blades and to prevent resin build up on the blade. Thank you for taking the time to make this channel.
I'm the last thi suggest anything to such a master woodworker, but I'm curious. Wouldn't it be best to lay wax paper on the rails prior to glue up. The wax paper would be reusable no?
I recently came across a fabulous method that requires little to no effort and a very safe and inexpensive solvent - vinegar. I don't want to post a link here (just search for "clean clamps with vinegar") in the youtube search. Method is simple: build tubes with PVC pipes & end caps that are longer than and slightly wider than the clamp bar. Disassemble clamps. Fill tube with distilled vinegar. Soak clamp bar for 2+ hours (overnite). Remove bar, rinse, wax, reassemble. If the build up is heavy, you'll need a longer soak time. If the soak time is long enough, all glue gets fully dissolved. If the soak time is light, then the glue will be softened (not dissolved) and easy to wipe. The one down side, and from my research, this isn't a problem: the shiny chrome(?) finish on the bars will be dulled with long soaks.
Nice one I realy need to clean my clamps as I always forget them ... I use GT7 (from Tec7) as protection for all my equipment (even electrical stuff like my circular saw, home made table saw ...)
Thanks very much James - that was very useful. Pleased to see that acetone worked not sure you can get the stronger solvents in the UK! Like other comments I definitely need more clamps😉😉
Hey James great video. I just bought some used Beasey Parallel clamps. They were unusable until I cleaned them up using your video as a guide. I meased up and used mineral oil instead of mineral spirits at first, but I went back and wiped down all the plastic parts with mineral spirits. Thus my question. I used a clean rag for the mineral spirits. But what would be the risk if I had used the same rag . @Kings Fine Woodworking
Good vid. Double dittos on not getting acetone, xylene, MEK etc on any of your plastics. Even if don’t see the damage it will pull plasticizers out and degrade the material- ages it prematurely.
So does MEK dissolve like acetone? IU agree it makes sense to use the safer effective solvent unless Mek hangs around a bit....problem I have with acetone is it evaporates in seconds....
I know this is a year old, but I just watched it again. Just for a refresher. I am curious if you have an opinion about using white vinegar, as some have suggested? Thank you and Merry Christmas to you and your family.
Thanks for the video. I recently purchased some used Jorgensen parallel clamps and they could use a tune up. I only have mineral spirits and paint thinner in my shop so I will need to uograde to the others you listed here!
Hi, I use 12”, 24”, 30”, and 54”. I have 18 of each of the smaller three sizes but only because I used to do production cabinets. For the 54” clamps, I only have 4 of those. I don’t use them very often. Parallel clamps would ideally be bought in pairs. And if you could only buy one size, I’d recommend the 24”. I use those way more often that all other sizes put together. As for clamp manufacturers, I’ve used every one. I have mostly Jets & Besseys because I’ve gotten them on big sale. But the Jets, while nice, are NOT worth the full price they sell for. Which is about $154 for a pair of 24” clamps. I bought mine many years ago when they had a very rare 1/2 price sale. The Jorgensens are fantastic! And only $88 for a pair. That’s the best value out there right now. And if I had to buy them today, it’s probably what I’d get. amzn.to/3GMXdnT
@@kenf2662 hi. A beam clamp isn’t better or worse. It’s just different. If you need 7000 pounds of clamping force per clamp, then you need a beam clamp. If you’re clamping up panels, and you want uniform pressure along the clamp jaw top to bottom, use a parallel clamp.
I really need to do this to my clamps. Never even thought about taking them apart. Ha. I do use paste wax on them now, but didn't think about that when I first got them so there is some glue stuck into the grooves. Thanks for this info, especially about the acetone - good to know. One question though. I was always told that silicone is a big no-no anywhere near a woodworking shop, as it will affect finishes in a bad way, get everywhere and be hard to get rid of. Have you ever noticed any issues like that?
Also worth mentioning lubricating the threads in your clamps will allow them to clamp harder. There's a lot of pressure on the thread and just a tiny bit of slip does a lot to let it continue to be wound.
I make a beeswax paste that I use to treat butcher block. Since it’s a mixture of wax & mineral oil, would you advise against using it on clamps as you do with just the beeswax?
Excellent video James! I have several of the same Bessy Revolution clamps. Question > What about using Bostik Glidecote instead of the WD40? Your thoughts?
Shaun Kennedy denatured alcohol is ethanol with extra stuff to make it undrinkable. Ethanol being the alcohol in beer, wine, and liquor as well as the additive in gasoline. You can thank the corn growers for higher gas and food costs for a product the is actually less energy per gallon. Denatured alcohol can be used is some camping stoves and in backpacking stoves designed specifically for alcohol.
Before a glue up take a hard wax candle and rub it across the grooved ribs of the clamps it will fill them with wax but still allow the clamp to work smooth and to clean after just use some warm water and a cloth and you will never have glue in the ribs again
Like usual, very informative thank you! So the moral of the story here is, you better wash out the most of it when you finished applying the glue, else it will become a bigger job afterwards.
I don't know what you're about to say however I simply car wax everything that has the possibility of getting glue on it except for the project and the newspaper. When the glue dries it's a simple matter of using a putty knife to remove the glue from everything except for the project and the newspaper...
I like to clean plastics with alcohol as well, but I don't use denatured alcohol. I use single malt whisky. I've noticed that 18 year old or above works best.
I also like to use terry cloths and found if you get someone who has potty trained a baby you can buy them quite cheap, I picked up 18 for £5 uk which is real cheap
True. I personally wouldn't use any silicone lubricants on anything that would touch something I planned on finishing. The silicone mat should be fine though. I think.
micdiva a Silicone mat is inert. My glue brushes are a solid silicone compound. Those can touch wood- no problems. Spray silicone OTOH is evil and will ruin any finish BC it repels almost everything. - and once you introduce it to your environment good luck getting rid of it. Touching /handling those clamp rails with the silicone spray will transfer it to your stock, your tools, etc etc. even if you don’t have trouble at first - give it a few years and it becomes impossible to track down. Personally I’d avoid that like the plague on anything I was going to handle. Light machine oil works just as well on clamps and is easy to control. It’ll also ruin finishes but you can get rid of it before finishing. I worked in a production shop while in college - they saturated their steel clamps with used motor oil !! No glue on the planet would stick to it and while it did mark the stock, it was gone with the first pass through the planer after glue-up.
Good video, James. I would just caution anyone to be EXTREMELY careful when using xylene or toluene. They are highly flammable and can be carcinogenic.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
We all watch you because you really do things the correct way and we appreciate that and because you are about family thumbs up my friend
Vinegar works really well man. Much safer too. I wrap a couple vinegar soaked wraps around the bar for a few minutes and it works like a charm.
I tried vinegar and while it worked it turned the silver metal a nasty black like it possibly took the protective finish off and oxidized it.
James, that was excellent! Thanks! Your channel definitely one of the most educational on RUclips - as a fellow content creator, I sincerely appreciate the effort that I know goes into your video production. And congrats on the family getting a Golden Chisel Award for 2018.
Small Workshop Guy, thank you! You are very kind. I’ve just gone and checked out your channel. Great stuff!! :-)
Wow, did I ever need this video. My parallel clamps are in terrible shape, and I didn't know how to get the glue off of them. I didn't think that acetone would soften the glue like you showed. And then waxing the bars to prevent the glue sticking is brilliant. This video really saved my parallel clamps, as I hate using them like they are now. Thanks a ton, James. This is so helpful!
Fantastic!! Thank you!! Very simple and educational
Hi James....have you tried Vinegar . Works great! and cheap!
Mr. Chemist 👨🔬, This is the perfect video for you. I’m thinking that you had fun planning it and doing the experiment 🧪!
Great information. Thanks King Family 😘
That's a great collection of clamps.
you were 100 percent correct on the use of a brass brush However I find the best method to clean the bars is to use a brass wire wheel brush on a drill.. it will take care of the glue on the bar in minutes and no chemicals needed
thanks for posting. very helpful
Scott Kaye sounds really like a good idea. Where did you get the brass wire wheel? Also, what could you use to cover the clamps before doing the clamping? Maybe blue painter’s tape or something cheaper?
@@michaell7877 search "brass wire brush for a drill" on Amazon.com. they have a ton of them for cheap
Thanks James for the great information as always
I just did this for my clamps. I used a wire wheel on my drill to clean after the acetone. This was a great video. They are like new again.
I used this method but ever since the clamps have been leaving blue speckles on the workpiece during clamp up. Have you experienced this problem?
Thanks for the tips James. I try to keep mine clean and have some success with using wax and using a lot less glue than you use. I’ve never had a joint fail yet. I also clean it off the clamps immediately which makes cleaning up easier too.
This was amazingly helpful. Thank you so much.
Love your videos James, will be cleaning my Bessey clamps today. Awesome
it's DEFINITELY time to clean my clamps! Thanks for the great info!
Not a "glamorous" wood project video....... But one that every woodworker can use. Great job!
Excellent, thanks
Dear James,
A great tip for keeping one's clamps in perfect working order. Probably an item neglected by most just as saw blades but need not be overlooked. Even I have learned something with regards to which lubricant is most appropriate, many thanks. Very well done. Kind regards.
Thanks. I need to tune up my parallel clamps.
Of course, I want to buy more clamps now too.
I’ve started using strips of grease paper over whatever I’m clamping. I’m not producing work anything like the scale you guys are and it saves me having to use toxic solvents etc.
Thanks for all your insights and tips.
Thanks James. Always informative and practical!
Another great video James, thanks for all you and your family do to help woodworkers of all skill levels.
Hi Dave, thank you!
Thank you for this video. My clamps are bogging down. Going to get acetone, wax and tune them up!
Very thorough as always thank you
1 done, 23 to go . . . I like to do all of those things but when doing a glue up I also like to wrap saran wrap around the clamp bar to try to keep glue off of it. Thanks for another great video.
As usual James another great video. I am glad to still see the photo bomer lol !
Very good video. Interesting, informative and useful.
thanks for the advice...great way to clean them up real nice!
Good information on cleaning.... only thing I question is having silicone in the shop... if you ever end up with finishing issues of "fish-eye"- look back to contamination with silicone... your process is now on my to do list for 40 some parallel clamps and 70-80 F-style.... thanks
Carl Hillard I agree on the silicone concern. Need to be cautious and control it. Suggest one of the dry lubricants such as used on your table saw gears
@@jaysimmons2319 which one do you use?
Any of the Teflon based lubes. Read the labels or content listings on line. Wipe it on do not overuse.
@@jaysimmons2319 ah so Teflon is not same as silicone?
To use layman’s terms. Think of silicone as as oil, whereas teflon is a polymer, think very slippery. Oils can cause “fisheyes” in water based systems but also in oil based systems where they are not miscible.
Thanks for sharing James, guess I better get to work on my clamps!!
An excellent video James. I hadn’t tried your experiment so appreciate the fact that you’ve done the work for me. Your chemistry background came in handy. If I do get glue on my clamps I now know which solvent to use. Acetone is a solvent I always have on hand. I also didn’t know that WD 40 made a silicone spray. I’ve been using a different brand. After watching I realize that I now need to add terry cloth towels to my list on needs for the shop. Thanks for all the information.
Two points - First make sure that the silicone spray doesn’t drip onto a surface where glue and finish will be applied in the future because they won’t stick & Second I try to prevent glue from getting on my clamps, especially those below the glue up, by covering them with wax paper. It’s a cheap preventive measure that saves me a lot of cleaning.
Awesome maintenance tip!
Very informative as always. Thank you James.
I’m suffering from clamp envy:-) great video! Thank you for the tutorial!
Hi James, super cool information this & I’ve got the silicon spray so I’m going to try clearing mine this way, cheers mate 👍👍👍
thank you
Great video, thank you! The product description links seem to be broken. Is it possible to re-link? I'm specifically looking for that red silicone mat (today). Thanks!
Thanks James! Great tips.
Hi John!! Thank you!!
Thanks for sharing that
I’ve always used a steel brush in a grinder (with a face mask, work gloves, and hearing protection). Less than 2 minutes a clamp. Paraffin on the clean rails and wipe off. Never a problem.
I used warm water with a wire brass brush attachment on a corded drill it's work well, after seeing this video i'll try acetone to see if it's work better. Awesome video as usual sir !
I used this method but ever since the clamps have been leaving blue speckles on the workpiece during clamp up. Have you experienced this problem?
How did you apply the solvent???
I like using paste wax on the bar to but, for the internal mechanism I prefer Blaster Advanced Dry Lube with Teflon. It's only $4.49 at Homedepot, It also works great to prevent rust on saw blades and to prevent resin build up on the blade. Thank you for taking the time to make this channel.
you da god for this one
I just use blue painters tape on the rails. But you have to remember to do it. Still good info on removing old PVA glue. Thanks.
Thank you!!
Great video. Thanks
Awesome video. Thank you.
Hi Brad, thank you!
I'm the last thi suggest anything to such a master woodworker, but I'm curious. Wouldn't it be best to lay wax paper on the rails prior to glue up. The wax paper would be reusable no?
awesome video! THANKS!
I recently came across a fabulous method that requires little to no effort and a very safe and inexpensive solvent - vinegar. I don't want to post a link here (just search for "clean clamps with vinegar") in the youtube search. Method is simple: build tubes with PVC pipes & end caps that are longer than and slightly wider than the clamp bar. Disassemble clamps. Fill tube with distilled vinegar. Soak clamp bar for 2+ hours (overnite). Remove bar, rinse, wax, reassemble. If the build up is heavy, you'll need a longer soak time. If the soak time is long enough, all glue gets fully dissolved. If the soak time is light, then the glue will be softened (not dissolved) and easy to wipe. The one down side, and from my research, this isn't a problem: the shiny chrome(?) finish on the bars will be dulled with long soaks.
Nice one I realy need to clean my clamps as I always forget them ... I use GT7 (from Tec7) as protection for all my equipment (even electrical stuff like my circular saw, home made table saw ...)
Thanks very much James - that was very useful. Pleased to see that acetone worked not sure you can get the stronger solvents in the UK!
Like other comments I definitely need more clamps😉😉
Hey James great video. I just bought some used Beasey Parallel clamps. They were unusable until I cleaned them up using your video as a guide. I meased up and used mineral oil instead of mineral spirits at first, but I went back and wiped down all the plastic parts with mineral spirits. Thus my question. I used a clean rag for the mineral spirits. But what would be the risk if I had used the same rag .
@Kings Fine Woodworking
Good vid. Double dittos on not getting acetone, xylene, MEK etc on any of your plastics. Even if don’t see the damage it will pull plasticizers out and degrade the material- ages it prematurely.
Wonderful demonstration! My only minor suggestion is to use a hair blower to lightly warm the metal surfaces as you apply the beeswax.
So does MEK dissolve like acetone?
IU agree it makes sense to use the safer effective solvent unless Mek hangs around a bit....problem I have with acetone is it evaporates in seconds....
Great job!
I know this is a year old, but I just watched it again. Just for a refresher. I am curious if you have an opinion about using white vinegar, as some have suggested? Thank you and Merry Christmas to you and your family.
I love these videos and your info posts in the group. Super informative, and not something that is often discussed on other channels.
Thank you Cody!
Thanks for the video. I recently purchased some used Jorgensen parallel clamps and they could use a tune up. I only have mineral spirits and paint thinner in my shop so I will need to uograde to the others you listed here!
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
A heat gun works great too. No harsh chemicals required.
James, what happened to the series on tools?
Hi thanks for this. Have you tried just Silicone rather than both Wax & Silicone (on bar & thread) & if so how does the wax improve things?
James, what sizes of pararel clamp you have
Hi, I use 12”, 24”, 30”, and 54”.
I have 18 of each of the smaller three sizes but only because I used to do production cabinets.
For the 54” clamps, I only have 4 of those. I don’t use them very often.
Parallel clamps would ideally be bought in pairs. And if you could only buy one size, I’d recommend the 24”. I use those way more often that all other sizes put together.
As for clamp manufacturers, I’ve used every one. I have mostly Jets & Besseys because I’ve gotten them on big sale.
But the Jets, while nice, are NOT worth the full price they sell for. Which is about $154 for a pair of 24” clamps. I bought mine many years ago when they had a very rare 1/2 price sale.
The Jorgensens are fantastic! And only $88 for a pair. That’s the best value out there right now. And if I had to buy them today, it’s probably what I’d get.
amzn.to/3GMXdnT
@@KingsFineWoodworking Nice Thanks, Better then using a beam clamp ? I am in the market for a large amount.
@@kenf2662 hi.
A beam clamp isn’t better or worse. It’s just different.
If you need 7000 pounds of clamping force per clamp, then you need a beam clamp.
If you’re clamping up panels, and you want uniform pressure along the clamp jaw top to bottom, use a parallel clamp.
I find a 3” wire wheel and a drill work great!
great tips. What size of gloves do you recommend? Keep up the great work! Cheers
Wow, what a difference.
I really need to do this to my clamps. Never even thought about taking them apart. Ha. I do use paste wax on them now, but didn't think about that when I first got them so there is some glue stuck into the grooves. Thanks for this info, especially about the acetone - good to know.
One question though. I was always told that silicone is a big no-no anywhere near a woodworking shop, as it will affect finishes in a bad way, get everywhere and be hard to get rid of. Have you ever noticed any issues like that?
Also worth mentioning lubricating the threads in your clamps will allow them to clamp harder. There's a lot of pressure on the thread and just a tiny bit of slip does a lot to let it continue to be wound.
Yes. Good point. I believe I mention that in the end when applying the silicon lubricant to the threads.
@@KingsFineWoodworking Ah so you did!
I make a beeswax paste that I use to treat butcher block. Since it’s a mixture of wax & mineral oil, would you advise against using it on clamps as you do with just the beeswax?
Can you just burn the glue off with a torch?
Excellent video James! I have several of the same Bessy Revolution clamps. Question > What about using Bostik Glidecote instead of the WD40? Your thoughts?
He’s not using WD-40 which is really a solvent not s lubricant. He’s using s silicone spray made by that Co. Big dif.
Great video, why does the alcohol say "fuel "? Sounds like you got a bit of a cold, hope you get to feeling better
Shaun Kennedy denatured alcohol is ethanol with extra stuff to make it undrinkable. Ethanol being the alcohol in beer, wine, and liquor as well as the additive in gasoline. You can thank the corn growers for higher gas and food costs for a product the is actually less energy per gallon. Denatured alcohol can be used is some camping stoves and in backpacking stoves designed specifically for alcohol.
You can actually thank our elected representatives for subsidizing and requiring use of ethanol in gasoline.
Before a glue up take a hard wax candle and rub it across the grooved ribs of the clamps it will fill them with wax but still allow the clamp to work smooth and to clean after just use some warm water and a cloth and you will never have glue in the ribs again
Like usual, very informative thank you! So the moral of the story here is, you better wash out the most of it when you finished applying the glue, else it will become a bigger job afterwards.
I don't know what you're about to say however I simply car wax everything that has the possibility of getting glue on it except for the project and the newspaper. When the glue dries it's a simple matter of using a putty knife to remove the glue from everything except for the project and the newspaper...
I like to clean plastics with alcohol as well, but I don't use denatured alcohol. I use single malt whisky. I've noticed that 18 year old or above works best.
look at all that Purple Heart
Meu sonho ter um grampo desse.
I just use my bench grinder with a brass wire wheel, 2 minutes and I am done, then reapply past wax.
Wow
I also like to use terry cloths and found if you get someone who has potty trained a baby you can buy them quite cheap, I picked up 18 for £5 uk which is real cheap
Ive heard silicone products can hirt a finish. Have you ever encountered that?
True. I personally wouldn't use any silicone lubricants on anything that would touch something I planned on finishing. The silicone mat should be fine though. I think.
@@bmay8818 yeah i know ive heard it would mess up a finish but also usually when using those clamps youre usually not going right to finishing
micdiva a Silicone mat is inert. My glue brushes are a solid silicone compound. Those can touch wood- no problems. Spray silicone OTOH is evil and will ruin any finish BC it repels almost everything. - and once you introduce it to your environment good luck getting rid of it. Touching /handling those clamp rails with the silicone spray will transfer it to your stock, your tools, etc etc. even if you don’t have trouble at first - give it a few years and it becomes impossible to track down. Personally I’d avoid that like the plague on anything I was going to handle. Light machine oil works just as well on clamps and is easy to control. It’ll also ruin finishes but you can get rid of it before finishing. I worked in a production shop while in college - they saturated their steel clamps with used motor oil !! No glue on the planet would stick to it and while it did mark the stock, it was gone with the first pass through the planer after glue-up.
Acetone will seep through Nitrile gloves very quickly.
Answer this.. assuming you hold a pencil in your right hand and a tape in your left... why are the numbers upside down?!
Hi
If you're talking about cleaning the glue off of your clamps honestly I have no clue I've never had glue stick to my clamps
Looks like you need to buy a few more clamps.
You can clean these up way faster with a brass brush wheel on a bench grinder. No chemicals needed. Wear your safety glasses.
I used this method but ever since the clamps have been leaving blue speckles on the workpiece during clamp up. Have you experienced this problem?
Good video, James. I would just caution anyone to be EXTREMELY careful when using xylene or toluene. They are highly flammable and can be carcinogenic.
They’re all highly flammable
No need for all those chemicals, cheapest white vinegar will do the trick!
PVA dissolves in warm water!
Gee, maybe I'm using excessive amounts of glue.
That blasphemy isnt accepted here! Lol
You're better off taping them beforehand
15 minutes? Really
Does Mrs.Rupa know you stole her pyrex?
Don’t say that out loud. Are you trying to get me in trouble?
@@KingsFineWoodworking well I wont tell anyone else
Wasn’t looking to watch you learn how to do this. Looking for an answer.
Thanks for the great info