After watching the video advert i was still skeptical. But when i finally downloaded the plans ruclips.net/user/postUgkxZF0EMnrujZvqHhGkxiz559uIABJWR9TG i was very impressed. The whole plan was just as you said in the video. Thank you very much. I now have a large and valuable collection for my woodworks. This is great!
This is literally what they used to do back when all nails were hand forged square nails. Wood was cheap, nails werent so it was faster to burn the building and extract the nails afterwards.
I used to have a nurse-contact who could get me large-diameter hypodermic needles and syringes, and those worked great for getting glue into tight places, but you have to clean them out immediately after use, and very thoroughly.
So sick and tired of being asked for tips on processing of pallets. Best response ever, I honestly took a second to realize you were not doing some flaming voodoo to get those nails out. LOL. Instant subscribe.
I have discovered you channel three days ago and now I cannot stop binge watching your videos. Your channel is awesome, i am freaking laughing my way through each one of them and learning a TON of things. This is insane. Thank you so much for your hard work and sharing your knowledge.
I also discovered your channel three days ago and now cannot stop binge watching your videos. Your channel is awesome, I am freaking laughing my way through each one of them and learning a TON of things. This is insane. Thank you so much for your hard work and sharing your knowledge.
16:50 Old skool tip for accurately measuring interior dimensions: don't measure. Instead, take two sticks that are at least half the length you need to measure, then put one stick tight to each end of the inside dimension, then pinch them together where they overlap and BOOM, perfect inside measurement. You can then clamp them together, measure them, or just scribe that distance on the board you need to cut to that length. Perfect every time.
Good one!, I do this with the cheap never really accurate metal yardsticks sold at the big box stores, I've cut them so i have one at every foot and 1/2 foot (under 3') and use a wet-erase marker.
@@cariebb7763 here’s a little video that gives you a visual. In this case they’ve made a reusable tool, but you can make one out of any scraps of wood you have lying around and just use your fingers or spring clamps to pinch it instead of the wing nuts they’ve used. Hope that helps! 👍🏻 ruclips.net/video/YRpnXYfF-w8/видео.html
In finding the center of wider material, like a sheet product, I'll "over measure" beyond approx. center of the plywood from both sides, measuring the distance between those two points (relatively short space) and that nearly always gives me a center point of the panel. Easy to witness quickly, like his board centering, and I'm off to the table saw lickity split to make cabinet carcass pieces/shelving.
Great vid! I will not be using method #2 to glue my cracks, thank you very much. The method for finding the center of a board also works for dividing a board into more equal pieces. If you want to divide a board into 3 equal pieces without fighting with crazy fractions just measure across the board like you did using a number that is easily divisible by three, say twelve, and then mark at four and eight and you have three equal pieces. I believe this method works no matter how many equal pieces you want.
When I use that method, I also make a small line along the edge of the ruler, and use the ruler-side of that line where it intersects the measurement mark. I also use a fairly-fine mechanical pencil for marking measurements that need to be precise.
Instead of measuring out and adding twelve inches, I use ten inches. Much, much easier to add ten to any given measurement than twelve. A decade or three of carpentry/construction/cabinet making/screwing up has taught me a bunch of stuff, and you are teaching me more. Keep it up!
@@BariumCobaltNitrog3n Adding one foot is great, if you are measuring in feet. Adding ten inches works much better when adding in inches, such as when building cabinets or framing walls. If I need an interior measurement of an area to install a set of cabinets that is 86 3/4" long, how much is that in feet? It is easily measured as 76 3/4" plus 10".
I have been an amateur wood worker for over 40 years experience, Bourbon Moth Woodworking is about the best for professional results and ideas. I have taken 4 years of vocational classes, and worked as a wood mechanic when I was younger. I am so pleased I found this.
I am just starting out wood working. I watched one of your videos and said “man, I think I can do at least 40% as well as you can”. So I went bought all the tools and wood. $4,000 later I am ready to work. Your tips really help out, and my neighbors come over and say man that looks average. Thanks to your tips I think some day they will say man that looks slightly above average. Thanks for the inspiration and the tips! I love you.
Your center-finding trick also works with splitting anything in thirds, except you use a number that is divisible by 3-like 9 or 12. Tip a ruler to 0 and 9 and mark the spot where 3 and 6 intersect and you have a perfectly divided board into thirds.
Just a massive thank you for these videos. I have just started trying to learn how to do some basic woodworking (very very basic) so simple tips like the creating your own "guide" for re-drilling holes has helped me immensely. The removing nails from the pallet had me in stitches. Great stuff.
I’ve been doing woodworking for a long time and have done a lot of stuff and watching this I learned some things. Well worth watching, I have some new and better ways of doing things.
@@wbwylie well that makes sense if you're using a commercially or for business. But most of these videos were watching including this guys are showing you how to do things yourself and have to save money. That's the difference.
The second method of gluing caught me by surprise. I couldn’t stop laughing! I love your humor and beyond that are some really great tips that are greatly appreciated! Your woodworking advice never gets old, it’s too entertaining……and informative. Keep it up!
Wow! Ten seconds in and I know your doppleganger -- Dave Teiff -- right down to the funny, quirky personality! Anyway, down to the important stuff. Wiping down the wood with mineral spirits also raises the grain for most woods, making sanding more efficient for the next higher grit. I used to use water, but it takes longer to dry. Also, before using the mineral spirits, a quick hand-sand with the woodgrain using the same grit you just finished with on the sander will help remove swirls that you won't see until you apply a stain or finish. "Remove as you go" works best because 220-grit paper won't do as good a job on 80- or 100-grit swirl marks later. I learned this while turning pens and the wood surface is f l a w l e s s even under 10X magnification review (yeah, for a pen maybe it's the Nth degree, but some of us are wired like that...)
Omg, watching this when everyone is sleeping sunday morning. I woke up everyone laughing so loud with the second metnod for gluing cracked board hahah ! !!!
An anti-glue squeeze out hack I use is I apply shellac to the surface when I dry fit the joint. It dries in a few minutes. Then do your glue-up and clamping. Shellac prevents the glue from getting into the woods pores so cleans up easily with damp cloth. No issues with glue stains when you apply finish. Not my idea, got it from Cam at Blacktail.
I am definately not a woodworker, but I find myself watching your videos, not only because you give great tips and make beautiful things, because you are so frickin funny!!!! I think I might just buy some wood!!!
@@nigelmtb that's just silly. I will still get out my 3 barley corns and put them end to end then measure to that, then I know for example, that it is 154mm plus 3 barleycorn 🤔
In my opinion, he just had a bad tape measure. Mine has a little tab i fold out at the end, so the total is exactly 10 cm. It also has a locking feature, so I just flip out the tab, run the tape measure from one end to the other, lock it, then pick it up and read it, and add 10cm 🙂 Goes exactly as fast as any other measure, and is more presice than relying on a mark.
i dont know what it is about your personality but you make me laugh alot and your knowledge mixed with it is so entertaining HOCKED keep it up your awesome
Here in America we prefer to build everything to the specification of a dead monarchs shoe. And converting things from imperial to metric and back when working with lumber, drill bits, table heights, etc is much more complicated than just downloading a fraction calculator app.
@@robandtina 😉😉 I wasn't *that* type of kid in school. But I am the type you can get to do sketchy stuff on a dare or who will do weird stuff out of curiosity. (FYI, wood glue is basically just school glue with some extra stuff in it)
My uncle discovered you with this video and he says to his wife "Does this guy remind you of anybody?" She immediately sent the video to my mom" ... they say we're soul brothers. You don't know me but I'd say we've definitely got the same sarcastic enthusiasm. Yay.
I do find “glue in the crack” tip number two extremely useful. Whenever I’m having a bad day at work (meaning every work day) I think of that tip and it makes the day better.
As an amateur with woodworker, I typically feel overpowered with the entire process. Be that as it may, this shop plan gave me much clarity and effortlessness, because of woodplans.works my shop is like a master craftsmen's shop. And That's great!
Great entrance on this one particularly (hope you're okay). Anyway for me, best hand sanding block is a flat piece of 1.5" thick (or so) scrap hardwood cut to 4.5" width for adhesive-backed sandpaper. The sandpaper rolls are cheap (compared to round disks), blocks can be cut to any size and each fitted with different grit, and you can sand right up to corners.
For hand sanding, I use Norton 3X sheet sandpaper whenever I can. For routine flat work, I use one of those 3M rubber sanding blocks that takes 1/4 sheet ripped into long strips, but I don't like 3M's adhesive-backed sandpaper because it leaves little gobs of adhesive on the block, and those compromise the flatness of it. Besides, the Norton 3X paper cuts longer and doesn't clog as quickly. For detail sanding, I wrap 1/16 of a sheet around a piece of an old credit card (cut lengthwise). -- I spent a bunch of years restoring century-old wooden entryways for three-story apartment buildings in the Boston area and finishing them with an alkyd-based marine varnish (Sikkens Cetol Marine-- NOT the Cetol products for house siding or windows and doors). These entryways had beveled-glass sidelights and toplights, many of them arched on top. In some places the built-up mouldings had more than 25 different surfaces to be finished, and some had Corinthian 1/2 columns with carved leaves and acorns on the capitals. In some parts, it was more like re-carving than refinishing, because there was so much UV degradation that had to be scraped off. Hundreds of hours of hand work on each one. I tried a couple of different power detail-sanders, but they were useless. -- Some of 3M's stuff is OK, but their sheet sandpaper sucks. Gator brand is OK, and some other brand from Finland I ran into, but I still stock up on Norton 3X whenever I see it. -- Discovering the utility of old credit cards for detail sanding "blocks" was a lifesaver. I cut them into strips about 7/8" wide, avoiding any raised numbers, and wrap the 1/16 sheets around them lengthwise. They are great for sanding inside corners and other grooves. For round concave troughs, I use milk-jug plastic, cut to rectangles sized so that the 1/16 sheet can be wrapped around them crosswise. The softer plastic takes the curve well, while its edges have enough stiffness to give a clean line where the trough meets whatever bounds it. -- The Sikkens Cetol Marine varnish was another great discovery. It lasts a lot longer than spar varnish or polyurethane (including the allegedly UV-protected polyurethane). Oily tropical woods like mahogany or teak should be wiped down with acetone or lacquer thinner just prior to the first coat, to remove the oils from the surface (for the sake of adhesion and to avoid splotchy coloration from the oils reacting with the varnish), but the manufacturers won't tell you that, what with the EPA looking over their shoulders. The Sikkens Cetol Marine stays a bit pliable and doesn't crack or crystalize, and maintenance is easy-- just wash it with TSP and a Scotchbrite pad, rinse, let dry, and recoat after a couple of years in marine environments, but 5-6 years on land seems to be OK. -- And for restoring those nice old brass kickplates and door handles, clean it up nicely, leaving in the little dings that give it character, and coat it with automotive clear coat. SEM sells it in a spray can, and it's available at auto-body supply stores. -- Good detail scrapers are hard to find. Craftsman used to make a "Handy Scraper / Utility Scraper" that had 6 blades that could be rotated 180 degrees, and I was lucky enough to get two of them, but they are long-since gone from the hardware shelves. The closest thing to it is the Hyde Countour Scraper 10450, but most of their blades are sharpened only on the ends, not on all edges, and three of the countours are concave, for scraping spokes and round spindles, which can be scraped with a straight blade (it's all going to get sanded, right?). The old Craftsman scraper had 4 concave blades, with radii of 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", and something around 3", and a couple of pointy pentagons, one tall and narrow, with a wide base, and the other short and wider, with a very wide base. The Hyde and the Craftsman handles will accept one another's blades, which clip on with a quick-release lever, and the blades are held at about a 15-degree angle off perpendicular to the handle. They scrape on the pull stroke. I recently had a metal fabricator with a CNC setup make some of the Craftsman style blades, because my old ones have been sharpened so much that there isn't much left of them. A higher-end set of fixed-blade (perpendicular to handle) scrapers is available at stortz.com, and I may spring for a set of them, because they're apparently made of carbon steel, not stainless, and the permanently-attached handles would make them easier to sharpen (and less often). (stortz.com also carries Klenk offset aviation metal shears, which I had years ago, and worked better than any I have seen since. No having to lift one flap above your cutting hand, a radical difference from the usual ones.) -- Hint of the day-- When you own some special, hard-to-find tools that are much better designed than the common variety, don't lend them out, even if it's to your boss.
@@grizzlygrizzle okay, this is such a great comment - years of very specialized and detailed work condensed into a RUclips comment. So special and greatly appreciated. I can confidently say that at some point I will try almost every recommendation you make here. Thanks so much for this enlightening and informative comment. I am going to make some sawdust now…
Simply the best video to date! Always entertaining and educational! Had a few moments of outbursts of laughter. Thank you! Not sure of why I see thumbs in the other direction.
Talking about using scrap wood. Have you seen wood prices. I can’t afford to have scrap wood. I suppose if I try the sandpaper trick I might be able to afford it.
I was not ready for the second glue in a crack method
I don't think anyone would be!
OMG, I laughed my Ass off!!! I really needed that laugh.
@@mnmike59 i couldn’t stop laughing
My wife gave me a wired look when I burst out laughing
Good stuff.
After watching the video advert i was still skeptical. But when i finally downloaded the plans ruclips.net/user/postUgkxZF0EMnrujZvqHhGkxiz559uIABJWR9TG i was very impressed. The whole plan was just as you said in the video. Thank you very much. I now have a large and valuable collection for my woodworks. This is great!
I was able to successfully remove the nails from most of my house with your nail removal trick.
Worked great in my truck tires, too!
also works great on fingers
This is literally what they used to do back when all nails were hand forged square nails. Wood was cheap, nails werent so it was faster to burn the building and extract the nails afterwards.
Don't try this method to remove aluminum window panes, though. Now, if you excuse me, I've got a lot of aluminum I have to smelt...
Me too! 😂
The man TOOK ONE FOR THE TEAM on that glue trick. Holy smokes.
That was mayo mixed with a little mustard for the yellow to tint.
Looks more like he took one FROM the team.
Thank God it wasn't a butt crack!
Best way to deal with nails in a pallet that I've have ever seen
I’ve never actually laughed out loud at a woodworking video but that glue scene was hilarious. Thank you!
I used to have a nurse-contact who could get me large-diameter hypodermic needles and syringes, and those worked great for getting glue into tight places, but you have to clean them out immediately after use, and very thoroughly.
after removing the nails from the pallet, do I still sand up to 220 grit?
Clean up the dust with mineral spirits first
Even the comments are funny. Gotta love it.
Back to 150 by hand if you are using Rubio to finish the nails and ash.
🤣
😆😂🤣
So sick and tired of being asked for tips on processing of pallets. Best response ever, I honestly took a second to realize you were not doing some flaming voodoo to get those nails out. LOL. Instant subscribe.
Deck Wrecker also works:) but I prefer fire method as well
Best pallet wood video ever!!!
I've been a carpenter for 20 years......and yet I STILL learn something from these videos everyday LOL
I have discovered you channel three days ago and now I cannot stop binge watching your videos. Your channel is awesome, i am freaking laughing my way through each one of them and learning a TON of things. This is insane. Thank you so much for your hard work and sharing your knowledge.
I also discovered your channel three days ago and now cannot stop binge watching your videos. Your channel is awesome, I am freaking laughing my way through each one of them and learning a TON of things. This is insane. Thank you so much for your hard work and sharing your knowledge.
A lot of woodworking channels use fancy camera tricks, but I appreciate your commitment to practical effects.
When older you are, slide across bench, you won't! (Journeyman Yoda)
Man... these videos are amazing. It’s like your dad telling you things that would take a lifetime of experience to learn
And, he even has the dad jokes.
Found this channel....saw the fantastic opening.....stayed for the blow in glue tutorial....subbed for life! XD.
Loved your trick for
Removing nails in pallets
BEST PALLET TUTORIAL EVER!!! LOL!
How have he
Hu
U
Amen. So freaking tired of people using the garbagiest wood ever for making nonsense.
Dude, you never disappoint! The pallet wood segment was golden!
16:50 Old skool tip for accurately measuring interior dimensions: don't measure. Instead, take two sticks that are at least half the length you need to measure, then put one stick tight to each end of the inside dimension, then pinch them together where they overlap and BOOM, perfect inside measurement. You can then clamp them together, measure them, or just scribe that distance on the board you need to cut to that length. Perfect every time.
Excellent.
Good one!, I do this with the cheap never really accurate metal yardsticks sold at the big box stores, I've cut them so i have one at every foot and 1/2 foot (under 3') and use a wet-erase marker.
Damnit I wish I could see this visually. These comment tips all seem so useful but somehow it’s so hard to grasp via text
@@cariebb7763 here’s a little video that gives you a visual. In this case they’ve made a reusable tool, but you can make one out of any scraps of wood you have lying around and just use your fingers or spring clamps to pinch it instead of the wing nuts they’ve used. Hope that helps! 👍🏻
ruclips.net/video/YRpnXYfF-w8/видео.html
In finding the center of wider material, like a sheet product, I'll "over measure" beyond approx. center of the plywood from both sides, measuring the distance between those two points (relatively short space) and that nearly always gives me a center point of the panel. Easy to witness quickly, like his board centering, and I'm off to the table saw lickity split to make cabinet carcass pieces/shelving.
That glue crack thing is pure gold. Thanks.
Learn something new every time I watch your video. Thank.
That method for getting the nails out of pallets is gonna save me so much time. Thanks, bro.
hahah i was saying when you pulled out the pallet, he going to burn it, and yep you did that is the best way too deal with those pesky pallet nails
Great vid! I will not be using method #2 to glue my cracks, thank you very much. The method for finding the center of a board also works for dividing a board into more equal pieces. If you want to divide a board into 3 equal pieces without fighting with crazy fractions just measure across the board like you did using a number that is easily divisible by three, say twelve, and then mark at four and eight and you have three equal pieces. I believe this method works no matter how many equal pieces you want.
When I use that method, I also make a small line along the edge of the ruler, and use the ruler-side of that line where it intersects the measurement mark. I also use a fairly-fine mechanical pencil for marking measurements that need to be precise.
I regret that I have but one like to give this video. The mix of gags with actually useful information … perfection.
So much for these boring wood channels. Entertaining and useful! Thanks for making learning fun!
These were great! Especially the second tip on how to get the glue into a crack.
Your pallet nail removal technique was fantastic.
I literally spit my scotch out with the pallet burning. Amen brother love this channel.
you should be more careful...thats no way to treat scotch.
Shouldn’t you be drinking bourbon, not scotch, while watching this?
@Jackman is crying right now.....
@@ericrichter7933 Mixed with Moths? No thanks!
Best use of pallets by far
This is the first time the sequel is better than the original!
Okay - I paused the video just to comment: De-nailing the pallet tip - Absolute Gold!
Bourbon Moth: Come for the lawnmower tank, stay for the mouthful of glue.
Cool and fun video. Appreciate the effort!!!
Yeah I analyzed it and that is definitely the same bottle the entire clip. 🤣
@@bradymiguel im pretty certain he went all in
Eating glue is how some of us got first placed into shop class.
Not me, but some of us
beats sniffing it!
Instead of measuring out and adding twelve inches, I use ten inches. Much, much easier to add ten to any given measurement than twelve.
A decade or three of carpentry/construction/cabinet making/screwing up has taught me a bunch of stuff, and you are teaching me more. Keep it up!
You don't add twelve, you add ONE. One foot. Much easier than any number.
@@BariumCobaltNitrog3n Adding one foot is great, if you are measuring in feet. Adding ten inches works much better when adding in inches, such as when building cabinets or framing walls.
If I need an interior measurement of an area to install a set of cabinets that is 86 3/4" long, how much is that in feet? It is easily measured as 76 3/4" plus 10".
@@coreyg7255 That's a good point.
I never knew option 1 for getting glue into a crack, thanks for the helpful tip, now I can finally stop doing option 2
I have been an amateur wood worker for over 40 years experience, Bourbon Moth Woodworking is about the best for professional results and ideas. I have taken 4 years of vocational classes, and worked as a wood mechanic when I was younger. I am so pleased I found this.
I watched your video twice so if I missed anything I’d catch it the 2nd time. Great job.
That entrance deserves an award.
Right!?! I nearly spewed my tea!
Workman's comp is reviewing your claim...
The entrance makes me laugh. Interesting
You watch him too. I’m a big fan of yours
Hahahaha nice roll
I am just starting out wood working. I watched one of your videos and said “man, I think I can do at least 40% as well as you can”. So I went bought all the tools and wood. $4,000 later I am ready to work. Your tips really help out, and my neighbors come over and say man that looks average. Thanks to your tips I think some day they will say man that looks slightly above average. Thanks for the inspiration and the tips! I love you.
You can do it. Keep it up. And you will get there.
Your center-finding trick also works with splitting anything in thirds, except you use a number that is divisible by 3-like 9 or 12. Tip a ruler to 0 and 9 and mark the spot where 3 and 6 intersect and you have a perfectly divided board into thirds.
Ok blowing that glue into the crack earned you a new sub! Take a bow my friend… you went WAY above and beyond on that one! 😂😂😂😂
That’s commitment. Holy balls that’s commitment.
Just a massive thank you for these videos. I have just started trying to learn how to do some basic woodworking (very very basic) so simple tips like the creating your own "guide" for re-drilling holes has helped me immensely. The removing nails from the pallet had me in stitches. Great stuff.
I’ve been doing woodworking for a long time and have done a lot of stuff and watching this I learned some things. Well worth watching, I have some new and better ways of doing things.
"Sandpapers flippin expensive" as he's holding a festool sander lol 😅
I was thinking the same thing!
Exactly frestool is one of the most expensive for saws and just about everything. But they are nice tools
I have a Festool sander. I use it commercially. It's 24 years old. At $5 per year I don't consider it expensive.
@@wbwylie well that makes sense if you're using a commercially or for business. But most of these videos were watching including this guys are showing you how to do things yourself and have to save money. That's the difference.
@@wbwylie so you paid 120.00 for it?? That's a good deal.
That pallet trick was probably the best one I’ve seen from any DIY video in the history of RUclips
The comment about pallets is spot-on, well said.
You are absolutely awesome you're funny and you know what you're doing and you know what you're doing I enjoy watching you
bro. I lost it when you did glue method 2. still laughing. that's when I hit subscribe.
The second method of gluing caught me by surprise. I couldn’t stop laughing! I love your humor and beyond that are some really great tips that are greatly appreciated! Your woodworking advice never gets old, it’s too entertaining……and informative. Keep it up!
That was hilarious i couldn't stop laughing ether 😝😝😝
I was not expecting that. At all.
Dude... I'm subscribing because of that glue #2 tip. Had me cracking up
I had only watched 1 or 2 of his videos, but after the pallet burning and the #2 glue method, count me as subscribed
I am still laughing over glue trick and the video is over! I also subscribed after seeing that!
The glue tip number 2 had me crying 😂. You are fantastic and I love your voice xxxx Hugs from Shropshire /North Wales Borders UK xxx
Not even sure if I like the content of the video yet...the intro was enough to push that like button!
Wow! Ten seconds in and I know your doppleganger -- Dave Teiff -- right down to the funny, quirky personality!
Anyway, down to the important stuff. Wiping down the wood with mineral spirits also raises the grain for most woods, making sanding more efficient for the next higher grit. I used to use water, but it takes longer to dry. Also, before using the mineral spirits, a quick hand-sand with the woodgrain using the same grit you just finished with on the sander will help remove swirls that you won't see until you apply a stain or finish. "Remove as you go" works best because 220-grit paper won't do as good a job on 80- or 100-grit swirl marks later. I learned this while turning pens and the wood surface is f l a w l e s s even under 10X magnification review (yeah, for a pen maybe it's the Nth degree, but some of us are wired like that...)
Omg, watching this when everyone is sleeping sunday morning. I woke up everyone laughing so loud with the second metnod for gluing cracked board hahah ! !!!
An anti-glue squeeze out hack I use is I apply shellac to the surface when I dry fit the joint. It dries in a few minutes. Then do your glue-up and clamping. Shellac prevents the glue from getting into the woods pores so cleans up easily with damp cloth. No issues with glue stains when you apply finish. Not my idea, got it from Cam at Blacktail.
How could any one thumbs down that video.. very funny, and great tips.
I am definately not a woodworker, but I find myself watching your videos, not only because you give great tips and make beautiful things, because you are so frickin funny!!!! I think I might just buy some wood!!!
OMG, you crack gluing techniques had me rolling!
I love the work you did with the pallet! Really top notch!! Keep up the GREAT work my friend!
inside measurement. I cut a stick exactly 10" and measure to it and add to my measurement. 10 is an easy number in my world
Most of the world agrees with you about the simplicity of ten. Where I live we have a whole numerical system based on ten. I love it.
@@nigelmtb that's just silly.
I will still get out my 3 barley corns and put them end to end then measure to that, then I know for example, that it is 154mm plus 3 barleycorn 🤔
I love my metric tape measure.
That's exactly what I do. I have sticks exactly cut to 30, 50, 80 inches, etc. Great for precisely cutting baseboard, crown molding and such.
In my opinion, he just had a bad tape measure. Mine has a little tab i fold out at the end, so the total is exactly 10 cm. It also has a locking feature, so I just flip out the tab, run the tape measure from one end to the other, lock it, then pick it up and read it, and add 10cm 🙂
Goes exactly as fast as any other measure, and is more presice than relying on a mark.
Your comedic timing…….is well timed. Great content, thanks your your time!
i dont know what it is about your personality but you make me laugh alot and your knowledge mixed with it is so entertaining HOCKED keep it up your awesome
I'm sure, that I wasn't the only one, who foreseen how he planned to remove the nails from the pallets... Too funny 😂
Thank you for the suggestion of the sanding eraser. I just ordered mine yesterday. Keep up the great work!
Thanks, keep bringing light onto the world
Genius tips and genius humour! Love it.
The glue-spitting was hilarious! Thanks, good stuff.
😂 I can’t even handle the glue part right now. Thank you for that!
My favorite tip that's helped me in woodworking:
Download a fraction calculator app on your phone. It will save you HOURS.
well ... i am using metric , no need for calculator :)
Or just switch to metric
Here in America we prefer to build everything to the specification of a dead monarchs shoe. And converting things from imperial to metric and back when working with lumber, drill bits, table heights, etc is much more complicated than just downloading a fraction calculator app.
Dude! You rock! I will forever watch your videos, as long as you make them anyway lol. Thanks
Love the way to take care of the nails on the pallet.
I REALLY hope that was hollandaise sauce, I know wood glue is non-toxic but having a beard, I can imagine the cleanup
It has a very unpleasant taste as well. Don't ask.
@@CeeJayThe13th Depends if you were that kid in school...
@@robandtina 😉😉
I wasn't *that* type of kid in school. But I am the type you can get to do sketchy stuff on a dare or who will do weird stuff out of curiosity.
(FYI, wood glue is basically just school glue with some extra stuff in it)
Excellent video! I have watched many tips and tricks videos that pretty much are the same tricks over and over. Not the case here!! These are great.
Just wait until it dries, then use a chisel....
My uncle discovered you with this video and he says to his wife "Does this guy remind you of anybody?" She immediately sent the video to my mom" ... they say we're soul brothers. You don't know me but I'd say we've definitely got the same sarcastic enthusiasm. Yay.
Great tips, learned a bunch even though I've been woodworking for years now.
same here!
Learnt more in this video than all the woodwork lessons in school 👍
I do find “glue in the crack” tip number two extremely useful. Whenever I’m having a bad day at work (meaning every work day) I think of that tip and it makes the day better.
As an amateur with woodworker, I typically feel overpowered with the entire process. Be that as it may, this shop plan gave me much clarity and effortlessness, because of woodplans.works my shop is like a master craftsmen's shop. And That's great!
this is the most chaotic good energy
my Insomnia says thank you for finding this 😭
Great entrance on this one particularly (hope you're okay). Anyway for me, best hand sanding block is a flat piece of 1.5" thick (or so) scrap hardwood cut to 4.5" width for adhesive-backed sandpaper. The sandpaper rolls are cheap (compared to round disks), blocks can be cut to any size and each fitted with different grit, and you can sand right up to corners.
For hand sanding, I use Norton 3X sheet sandpaper whenever I can. For routine flat work, I use one of those 3M rubber sanding blocks that takes 1/4 sheet ripped into long strips, but I don't like 3M's adhesive-backed sandpaper because it leaves little gobs of adhesive on the block, and those compromise the flatness of it. Besides, the Norton 3X paper cuts longer and doesn't clog as quickly. For detail sanding, I wrap 1/16 of a sheet around a piece of an old credit card (cut lengthwise).
-- I spent a bunch of years restoring century-old wooden entryways for three-story apartment buildings in the Boston area and finishing them with an alkyd-based marine varnish (Sikkens Cetol Marine-- NOT the Cetol products for house siding or windows and doors). These entryways had beveled-glass sidelights and toplights, many of them arched on top. In some places the built-up mouldings had more than 25 different surfaces to be finished, and some had Corinthian 1/2 columns with carved leaves and acorns on the capitals. In some parts, it was more like re-carving than refinishing, because there was so much UV degradation that had to be scraped off. Hundreds of hours of hand work on each one. I tried a couple of different power detail-sanders, but they were useless.
-- Some of 3M's stuff is OK, but their sheet sandpaper sucks. Gator brand is OK, and some other brand from Finland I ran into, but I still stock up on Norton 3X whenever I see it.
-- Discovering the utility of old credit cards for detail sanding "blocks" was a lifesaver. I cut them into strips about 7/8" wide, avoiding any raised numbers, and wrap the 1/16 sheets around them lengthwise. They are great for sanding inside corners and other grooves. For round concave troughs, I use milk-jug plastic, cut to rectangles sized so that the 1/16 sheet can be wrapped around them crosswise. The softer plastic takes the curve well, while its edges have enough stiffness to give a clean line where the trough meets whatever bounds it.
-- The Sikkens Cetol Marine varnish was another great discovery. It lasts a lot longer than spar varnish or polyurethane (including the allegedly UV-protected polyurethane). Oily tropical woods like mahogany or teak should be wiped down with acetone or lacquer thinner just prior to the first coat, to remove the oils from the surface (for the sake of adhesion and to avoid splotchy coloration from the oils reacting with the varnish), but the manufacturers won't tell you that, what with the EPA looking over their shoulders. The Sikkens Cetol Marine stays a bit pliable and doesn't crack or crystalize, and maintenance is easy-- just wash it with TSP and a Scotchbrite pad, rinse, let dry, and recoat after a couple of years in marine environments, but 5-6 years on land seems to be OK.
-- And for restoring those nice old brass kickplates and door handles, clean it up nicely, leaving in the little dings that give it character, and coat it with automotive clear coat. SEM sells it in a spray can, and it's available at auto-body supply stores.
-- Good detail scrapers are hard to find. Craftsman used to make a "Handy Scraper / Utility Scraper" that had 6 blades that could be rotated 180 degrees, and I was lucky enough to get two of them, but they are long-since gone from the hardware shelves. The closest thing to it is the Hyde Countour Scraper 10450, but most of their blades are sharpened only on the ends, not on all edges, and three of the countours are concave, for scraping spokes and round spindles, which can be scraped with a straight blade (it's all going to get sanded, right?). The old Craftsman scraper had 4 concave blades, with radii of 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", and something around 3", and a couple of pointy pentagons, one tall and narrow, with a wide base, and the other short and wider, with a very wide base. The Hyde and the Craftsman handles will accept one another's blades, which clip on with a quick-release lever, and the blades are held at about a 15-degree angle off perpendicular to the handle. They scrape on the pull stroke. I recently had a metal fabricator with a CNC setup make some of the Craftsman style blades, because my old ones have been sharpened so much that there isn't much left of them. A higher-end set of fixed-blade (perpendicular to handle) scrapers is available at stortz.com, and I may spring for a set of them, because they're apparently made of carbon steel, not stainless, and the permanently-attached handles would make them easier to sharpen (and less often). (stortz.com also carries Klenk offset aviation metal shears, which I had years ago, and worked better than any I have seen since. No having to lift one flap above your cutting hand, a radical difference from the usual ones.)
-- Hint of the day-- When you own some special, hard-to-find tools that are much better designed than the common variety, don't lend them out, even if it's to your boss.
@@grizzlygrizzle okay, this is such a great comment - years of very specialized and detailed work condensed into a RUclips comment. So special and greatly appreciated. I can confidently say that at some point I will try almost every recommendation you make here. Thanks so much for this enlightening and informative comment. I am going to make some sawdust now…
Love the pallet wood
Perfect project for beginners
Simply the best video to date! Always entertaining and educational!
Had a few moments of outbursts of laughter. Thank you!
Not sure of why I see thumbs in the other direction.
i was so invested and then the second crack fill method came in and i was laughing for like 10 min and had to rewatch the video
Roflmbo watching was worth it just for the humor. Besides I love that eraser.
Really? It's the 'humour' that will put me off watching him at all.
I can't believe you messed that nice cherry board up to tell me how stupid I have been for so many years.
I finally found a woodworking video that is both informative and quite hilarious. Thanks
The reverse drilling to start out holes blew my mind 😮 sooo helpful
LMAOOOOO!!! My wife said Wtf you laughing at so early in the morning i said this carpenter im watching is funny as shit. Awsome video.
Laughed my head off at the pallet man. Bloody brilliant.
The trick at 8 mins just saved my bacon! Cheers!
Thanks. Most informative. Greetings from Ireland
14:50 Glue in crack method 2 got me crying! Thanks I needed that! Subscribed!You are funny dude!
OMG, why did I not know running the drill bit backwards first. Dang I’m stupid.
No you’re not, we just know more
I discovered that accidentally by inadvertently starting to drill in the wrong direction so many times. Absentmindedness leads to great discoveries!
My Favourite Woodworking Guy!
Glad you are using water soluble glue..... Luv it.
I was like, oh nooooo, he's one of these palette people. Oh. Oooh. He's setting that ish on fire. Good on him.
I hate when people use pallets !
Speaking of pallets, can instill buy the "stop making pallet furniture" shirts? Cuz I really need that in my life
Was there also a shirt for “death to river tables”? I’d be a customer.
Same.
The "2nd Glue Method" is also good for cleaning debris from your beard, as long as you wait till the glue is dry before gently removing it.
Man! This guy is very informative, but funny as hell. A little weird too. LOVE IT!
Absolutely hysterical. Great Tips!
Talking about using scrap wood. Have you seen wood prices. I can’t afford to have scrap wood. I suppose if I try the sandpaper trick I might be able to afford it.
Yea i actually thought i was going to learn how to remove nails from a pallet.. i guess i did 🤣
This is simply genius, which only comes from experience and care. Excellent work bro!!