I'm having the issue with my 66 c5 that it pops out of first when it's climbing hills with a load. I need to remove the tranny to have it rebuilt. I was planning on doing clutch at the same time because the master cylinder ended up with a crack (no idea how) so I replaced the master cylinder and now it only catches in the last 2 inches of letting the clutch out, before this I remember the last 6" of travel it would start to grab. Not sure if that is needed or not but if I have it all appart may as well? Great video, I learn allot from your content, keep it coming!
My c5 treefarmer would do that ,cause clutch disc spline was rusty so I drilled a hole in bellowing and sprayed pb blaster in there and it worked lol never had to pull tranny
Once when I changed the clutch on an old car and stepped in to start and try how it worked, I looked down at the floor next to the car. There was the release bering.
On my dad’s old 67 C-4b tree farmer, we’d have that clutch changed where she blew and be Bach up and running in about a little over an hour. Our clutch discs were of a fibre material. They need to be changed every couple years and are not as tough as the brass friction discs, but a lot friendlier on the flywheel!
After doing it if I had another set of hands and the materials on hand we could get it done in short order - pretty easy setup to work on. Thanks for watching!
One winter I was cutting some hilly ground and had resorted to skidding on lake ice for part of the trip to speed things up. There was a 3 ft bank where I bumped on and off the lake. On 1 trip in when I hit the bank the skidder stopped moving...clutch problems. After a half mile hike to get tools and back I pulled the clutch out of the C5C Tree Farmer. The spring center had torn loose on the clutch disc. I took the pieces home that evening and welded the spring center solid to the disc. The next day I reassembled the machine out on the lake ice and ran it that way until spring breakup. I redid the clutch during breakup and installed a custom built clutch disc with a solid center and full faced Kevlar linings. That was about 18 years ago and the disc is still in there. The 12" disc out of a Farmall Super "M" will fit right in these older C5's.
Louis you are a tough old bird. Not many people these days would tackle a job like that out in the weather. I guess that's why I have been keeping an eye on you for the last six or seven years. Always interesting
Hey thanks for watching, my son thankfully is the same way - don't even have to ask him to go and do this stuff, he's on board all the way - hard to find.
Get a big diesel torpedo air heater Louis! Got a Master BV77, 21kW one for just those occasions when doing repairs and maintenance outside in winter and it's a lifesaver, having it blow at the part you are working on or like what you are doing putting it beneath and having the heat rise where you work is really nice. Had a harvester with some weak antifreeze a couple of years ago and a bad starter that was parked in a valley just before a inversion and it got down to -35C for a week and we had to get it going before the coolant froze and damaged the machine. Ended up putting a tarp over it and dropping the skid plate and blowing warm air in from beneath for a couple of hours and getting the antifreeze liquid again and changing the starter and getting it going again. The damned propylene glycol isn't good to anything below -30 as it slushes up and if you try and mix it to colder temps it gets too thick, like syrup and too heavy to circulate anyway...
You e probably figured out already manuals for those machines are made of unobtainiom… Anyways if that’s a C4C I’ve got a parts master manual for it. It’s for sale if your interested.
Good job in the field hey!You enjoy that more than ski doo repairs😁. Reminds me of my days repairing 1960's NWest cable cranes in the field in northern Ont cold temps. Thanks for sharing, good filming( dan G)
I kinda of enjoy repairing all kinds of things...in the worst weather it seems lol. I have some vids coming out on Powermodz - cold weather VK540 up and running.
Excellent video it's nice to see that you got the clutch replaced. If I was doing a engine swap I would be thinking about a John Deere 4039 or 4 bt Cummins a Perkins is ok but they have cold weather starting issues unless the newer ones are better
Oh what fun. I've done it all with my C4 but at least I had it in my shop. That old equipment seems like it never quits finding itself a problem, but once you go through enough of it it should be a reliable machine for years to come., as long as you don't razz the hell out of it as funny as that sounds considering the shit it goes through in the woods. Old Greta will roar again!!
One bitch of a job for sure as it falls off just as you get a bolt started... next time take two bolts that fit the threads for transmission to bell housing and get them extra long, cut the heads off, use them for guide bolts to slide the transmission in. I am not a fan of force and I see that you were able to get the new throw out fork as well. Thats a huge step in the right direction but get the trans started in and if it still feels like the bolts are too short, get one bolt thats too long over all but will grab enough to hold trans in place and start through the pilot bearing in the very center... once its holding a bit... not too tight..easy does it and no broken ears... step on clutch a little with something to force the fingers to release the clutch as its not like you can tighten the pressure plate bolts anymore with no access hole in the bottom. I made my own little fork device that let the clutch release a little as its not going anywhere but into place that last silly whisker. Its done now and should work good kevlar is the shit but will eat flywheels if left burning a long enough time... brief slipping doesn't hurt a bit
I'm having the issue with my 66 c5 that it pops out of first when it's climbing hills with a load. I need to remove the tranny to have it rebuilt. I was planning on doing clutch at the same time because the master cylinder ended up with a crack (no idea how) so I replaced the master cylinder and now it only catches in the last 2 inches of letting the clutch out, before this I remember the last 6" of travel it would start to grab. Not sure if that is needed or not but if I have it all appart may as well? Great video, I learn allot from your content, keep it coming!
Where do you buy your parts i have the same machine
My c5 treefarmer would do that ,cause clutch disc spline was rusty so I drilled a hole in bellowing and sprayed pb blaster in there and it worked lol never had to pull tranny
Bellhousing
Once when I changed the clutch on an old car and stepped in to start and try how it worked,
I looked down at the floor next to the car. There was the release bering.
Ive done that....horrible feeling with no one to blame but ourselves eh lol
@@rollingupmysleeves Jeupp.
On my dad’s old 67 C-4b tree farmer, we’d have that clutch changed where she blew and be Bach up and running in about a little over an hour. Our clutch discs were of a fibre material. They need to be changed every couple years and are not as tough as the brass friction discs, but a lot friendlier on the flywheel!
After doing it if I had another set of hands and the materials on hand we could get it done in short order - pretty easy setup to work on. Thanks for watching!
you don't know the part number of that pressure plate by any chance???
hmm, not sure - but a clutch shop should be able to figure it out for you.
One winter I was cutting some hilly ground and had resorted to skidding on lake ice for part of the trip to speed things up. There was a 3 ft bank where I bumped on and off the lake. On 1 trip in when I hit the bank the skidder stopped moving...clutch problems. After a half mile hike to get tools and back I pulled the clutch out of the C5C Tree Farmer. The spring center had torn loose on the clutch disc. I took the pieces home that evening and welded the spring center solid to the disc. The next day I reassembled the machine out on the lake ice and ran it that way until spring breakup. I redid the clutch during breakup and installed a custom built clutch disc with a solid center and full faced Kevlar linings. That was about 18 years ago and the disc is still in there.
The 12" disc out of a Farmall Super "M" will fit right in these older C5's.
Thats a some good thinking! Im always looking to upgrade - id like to rebuild this skidder this summer.
Louis you are a tough old bird. Not many people these days would tackle a job like that out in the weather. I guess that's why I have been keeping an eye on you for the last six or seven years. Always interesting
Hey thanks for watching, my son thankfully is the same way - don't even have to ask him to go and do this stuff, he's on board all the way - hard to find.
Get a big diesel torpedo air heater Louis! Got a Master BV77, 21kW one for just those occasions when doing repairs and maintenance outside in winter and it's a lifesaver, having it blow at the part you are working on or like what you are doing putting it beneath and having the heat rise where you work is really nice.
Had a harvester with some weak antifreeze a couple of years ago and a bad starter that was parked in a valley just before a inversion and it got down to -35C for a week and we had to get it going before the coolant froze and damaged the machine.
Ended up putting a tarp over it and dropping the skid plate and blowing warm air in from beneath for a couple of hours and getting the antifreeze liquid again and changing the starter and getting it going again. The damned propylene glycol isn't good to anything below -30 as it slushes up and if you try and mix it to colder temps it gets too thick, like syrup and too heavy to circulate anyway...
Hey thanks for the info great idea. Imagine what the Russians deal with!
You e probably figured out already manuals for those machines are made of unobtainiom… Anyways if that’s a C4C I’ve got a parts master manual for it. It’s for sale if your interested.
Yes I am! I have some manuals for various models around it but not for it. Please email me at Lshobie at ya hoo dot com thanks!
Boy, you made that look really easy!
well...if I put the whole vid up it would be very boring lol. thanks for watching!
Ouch, turning wrenches at -27 is not fun. I hope you had someplace to warm up a bit between steps.
Naw just keep moving and wear a balaclava!
@@rollingupmysleeves Brrr
I still remember you racing a sxs at Hay Days in Mn a few years ago Good memories
Oh ya! My neck still talks about those days lol
I have an injury from every amazing thing Ive done - otherwise I'd forget everything....
Great video, from NB.
Thanks for watching!
hey great content! where abouts are you located?
In Ontario Canada
Good job in the field hey!You enjoy that more than ski doo repairs😁. Reminds me of my days repairing 1960's NWest cable cranes in the field in northern Ont cold temps. Thanks for sharing, good filming( dan G)
I kinda of enjoy repairing all kinds of things...in the worst weather it seems lol. I have some vids coming out on Powermodz - cold weather VK540 up and running.
Excellent video it's nice to see that you got the clutch replaced. If I was doing a engine swap I would be thinking about a John Deere 4039 or 4 bt Cummins a Perkins is ok but they have cold weather starting issues unless the newer ones are better
Ya the new ones are pretty amazing - hit the key and they blast to life. Check out the Perkins 1004-40T turbo.
@@rollingupmysleeves ok I will check it out
Awesome!
Oh what fun. I've done it all with my C4 but at least I had it in my shop. That old equipment seems like it never quits finding itself a problem, but once you go through enough of it it should be a reliable machine for years to come., as long as you don't razz the hell out of it as funny as that sounds considering the shit it goes through in the woods. Old Greta will roar again!!
I know its crazy eh, I think this summer ill go over the whole machine
One bitch of a job for sure as it falls off just as you get a bolt started... next time take two bolts that fit the threads for transmission to bell housing and get them extra long, cut the heads off, use them for guide bolts to slide the transmission in. I am not a fan of force and I see that you were able to get the new throw out fork as well. Thats a huge step in the right direction but get the trans started in and if it still feels like the bolts are too short, get one bolt thats too long over all but will grab enough to hold trans in place and start through the pilot bearing in the very center... once its holding a bit... not too tight..easy does it and no broken ears... step on clutch a little with something to force the fingers to release the clutch as its not like you can tighten the pressure plate bolts anymore with no access hole in the bottom. I made my own little fork device that let the clutch release a little as its not going anywhere but into place that last silly whisker. Its done now and should work good kevlar is the shit but will eat flywheels if left burning a long enough time... brief slipping doesn't hurt a bit
Great info thanks!