Same problem. started years ago. suspected cockroaches but found none. tinkered around here and there and found that removing and then replacing the wide ribbon connector on the left got it going again (most of the time). So, for years i have just been pulling and reconnecting that ribbon cable to get a load of dishes done. total pain, to be honest...and seems to not be enough to get it working any more. so now, i find your post with a lot of comments from nice success stories of other. so, checked my capacitors, they all look fine. pulled the circuit board out completely and inspected both sides in good light (had never done that before). found what looks like evidence of cockroaches maybe in the past. now i scrubbed down both sides of the board with soft bristle brush and a misting of water. let it dry really well and..... uh, no joy. Nope, just have pots and pans and normal lights flashing back and forth. Oh well, it was worth a shot. Thanks for the video.
Back to report that, after replacing two capacitors, my dishwasher is working perfectly again. Ran three cycles so far with zero issue. Very relieved, thank you once again for posting this video!
I just took mine apart, saw fuses bent over touching other fuses, righted them up, put it back together and, walaw, it works!! I am so happy right now, as I hate handwashing dishes! Thanks so much for showing me how to disassemble mine.
Hey, thanks! I took mine apart since it was having the same issue. I didn't have any blown capacitors on the board. What I did see was a dead palmetto bug and bug waste on the board. I took it all apart as you described and cleaned everything well with rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab. I put it back together and, so far, it seems to be working fine. This must happen quite a lot here in Florida!
Was on my way to buying a 1000 dollar bosch. Found your vid and now have caps coming from Amazon. Thank you. I subscribed and liked. Thank you very much.
This is way better than spending $150 on a new control board! Mine was doing the same thing but I did not replace the capastor I just unplugged all of the wires, plugged them back in and I got lucky it worked fine we'll see how long that last though!
I cannot thank you enough. This worked exactly as you described. Unsoldering the capacitor was challenging as you got to keep it hot simultaneously pulling it out (The soldered end was slightly bent into the board.)
Thank you !! Had the same issue but no Capacitor issue. Removed everything and inspected for any unusual marks but didn't find any so replaced everything back and my issue was solved... Thanks again for the great video 🙂
Fantastic video. I had the same exact problem, and changing out the same capacitor with the ones you provided via amazon worked flawlessly. This was my first time ever soldering, but it worked first try. I can't thank you enough!
I am glad it worked for you and you learned a new skill. Now you can look at anything that is broken and look for a cracked solder joint or a busted capacitor and maybe fix it! Thank you!
Great video, thanks for posting. Having trouble with mine recently and going to try this. I can get it to run a cycle after a few false starts, once it's done with the current I'll dig into the control board to check
Yeah mine was doing something similar. I had to disconnect the control board a second time after repairing the capacitor. I think it had a buildup of charge in it. So if the light comes on again after repairing the capacitor try disconnecting the circuit board again and letting it sit for 5-10 minutes then put it back in.
Hello, I have a Kenmore dishwasher( 665.13744K601M ) that will not power on. The control board looks similar to the one in this video. The fuse is good and power is going to the fuse. My question is how do I check the control board & the touchpad to see what I have to replace. None of the lights work. Additional information both switches in the door lock checked out. The wire from the fuse to one of the door locks has continuity. Cleaned the pins with an eraser. When I reassembled it the washer light lit up & the united hummed but no water was sprayed. But it will not light again. If any of this is a clue please let me know and thanks in advance for your help. Joe Z
Mine had the same issue. I installed the new capacitor, and it's going again! Thanks for figuring this out and sharing. I wonder how many of these are scrapped because of this problem?
I am so glad I can help. Would you mind to like and subscribe so it pops up when people search for the problem? The more interaction the more it will show up for people.
When getting the capacitor make sure to get one which is rated same as the original for temp at 105 degrees Celsius. 1000uF and 6.3V. Possibly you can get away with 10V. I have checked in terms of space 12mmX15mm (width and height of Capacitor) can fit in the space. Any bigger would be difficult. Please look at the spec sheet of the capacitor, when replacing it has to be low impedance. The main reason I suspect for the failure of the original one was probably due internal heat build up over time due to higher impedance in the capacitors which lead to failure.
Hello, thank you for this great video. I live in Guatemala and the only capacitor that I can find is 1000uF 16 Volts, but the one you linked on Amazon is 6.3 Volts. The company selling the capacitors said there would be no problem using the 16V capacitor (according to him if I used a lower than 6.3 Volts capacitor it would blow up but not this since it is of higher voltage). However I am worried that using a 16 V instead of a 6.3 V would cause other problems / worsen the situation. Is it safe to use the 16 V capacitor?
Yeah, my board version is slightly older since no SMD's on it but caps (4 total) were shot nevertheless. The machine was almost never used in 20 years (basement), just recently started blinking at me...
@@Iron_DPT Well, yes it started working as it should after I replaced (4) caps - old ones were reading way off the spec . No more blinking. Now, the other issue was blowing the thermistor in heat dry mode - well I installed the resettable thermal switch and so far so good - which is confusing a bit - what caps have to do with that...🤷
Note there is a control board reset sequence if needed. Press "heat-dry" then "Normal" then Heat-Dry and Normal again then (after a pause) hit " cancel" pause a few seconds and cancel again.
@@thenomadrhodestry unhooking the motherboard for about 10-15 minutes and then hook it back up. Sometimes static electricity can build up and it can cause the same issue.
I have the same issue.... normal light blinking...... so I disassemble it and disconnected everything, all capacitors looked normal and the board was clean, So I put everything back... plug in to the outlet and NOW Normal and cancel button light is blinking 😞.... HELP.
Go through and recheck all connections. If everything looks to be connected well then the processor may have went out and needs a new control board. Hope this helps.
Did you replace the capacitor with the exact one that you removed? Some of the capacitors are different on the board. Unplug the board again and plug it back in.
@@Iron_DPT Yes, I used your recommended capacitor which matched the one I was replacing. The one I removed was quite the struggle, so perhaps I damaged something or my soldering it not up to par. In any case, thank you for the advise, and for making this!
![FNAF vs TF2 - Episode 2 [SFM]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/z5b3V2-VLb0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you!!! I couldn’t find a replacement board and was about to buy a new unit but found this video. You saved me a lot of money!
@@kylesherryvideo I am so glad it helped you! Please like and subscribe so it will show up for others!
Same problem. started years ago. suspected cockroaches but found none. tinkered around here and there and found that removing and then replacing the wide ribbon connector on the left got it going again (most of the time). So, for years i have just been pulling and reconnecting that ribbon cable to get a load of dishes done. total pain, to be honest...and seems to not be enough to get it working any more. so now, i find your post with a lot of comments from nice success stories of other. so, checked my capacitors, they all look fine. pulled the circuit board out completely and inspected both sides in good light (had never done that before). found what looks like evidence of cockroaches maybe in the past. now i scrubbed down both sides of the board with soft bristle brush and a misting of water. let it dry really well and..... uh, no joy. Nope, just have pots and pans and normal lights flashing back and forth. Oh well, it was worth a shot. Thanks for the video.
You saved me $450!!!!! And I spent $5 on the capacitor!
Awesome! I am so glad I can help. If you don't mind giving me a like and subscribing to help others do the same!
Looks like one DPT helping Another!
How do you know how to do this if you’re a physical therapist!?
@@dr.stephaniestover4096 I fix everything. I don't discriminate if it has a heart beat or not.
Back to report that, after replacing two capacitors, my dishwasher is working perfectly again. Ran three cycles so far with zero issue. Very relieved, thank you once again for posting this video!
Happy to help please like and subscribe for more
I just took mine apart, saw fuses bent over touching other fuses, righted them up, put it back together and, walaw, it works!! I am so happy right now, as I hate handwashing dishes! Thanks so much for showing me how to disassemble mine.
Hey, thanks! I took mine apart since it was having the same issue. I didn't have any blown capacitors on the board. What I did see was a dead palmetto bug and bug waste on the board. I took it all apart as you described and cleaned everything well with rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab.
I put it back together and, so far, it seems to be working fine. This must happen quite a lot here in Florida!
I used your link for the capacitors, followed your instructions. First time I ever soldered anything. Dishwasher now works. Thanks for your video!
That is fantastic!!!! Saving money and learning something new!
Was on my way to buying a 1000 dollar bosch. Found your vid and now have caps coming from Amazon. Thank you. I subscribed and liked. Thank you very much.
@@chrisbiery7217 I hope it works!
This is way better than spending $150 on a new control board! Mine was doing the same thing but I did not replace the capastor I just unplugged all of the wires, plugged them back in and I got lucky it worked fine we'll see how long that last though!
Fantastic! I hope it lasts for many years!
I cannot thank you enough. This worked exactly as you described. Unsoldering the capacitor was challenging as you got to keep it hot simultaneously pulling it out (The soldered end was slightly bent into the board.)
Thank you !! Had the same issue but no Capacitor issue. Removed everything and inspected for any unusual marks but didn't find any so replaced everything back and my issue was solved... Thanks again for the great video 🙂
Fantastic video. I had the same exact problem, and changing out the same capacitor with the ones you provided via amazon worked flawlessly. This was my first time ever soldering, but it worked first try. I can't thank you enough!
I am glad it worked for you and you learned a new skill. Now you can look at anything that is broken and look for a cracked solder joint or a busted capacitor and maybe fix it! Thank you!
I watched your video, did everything you told to do and it worked perfectly! Thank you so much!
Thank you for this - I was able to fix it bc of you!!!
@@kjanssen77 you are so very welcome. Please like and subscribe so I can reach more people like you!
Great video, thanks for posting. Having trouble with mine recently and going to try this. I can get it to run a cycle after a few false starts, once it's done with the current I'll dig into the control board to check
Yeah mine was doing something similar. I had to disconnect the control board a second time after repairing the capacitor. I think it had a buildup of charge in it. So if the light comes on again after repairing the capacitor try disconnecting the circuit board again and letting it sit for 5-10 minutes then put it back in.
@@Iron_DPT appreciate the tip! After I checked the board I had two blown capacitors, so once the replacements arrive I'll report back
Well done dude, I had the same problem and changed the same capacitor (Capacitor 1000uF 6.3V) and it worked! Thanks a lot
Sadly the issue come again after a 5 weeks... some advice? someone? thanks
Genius. Thanks! Worked for me. Best $5.88 spent.
Awesome! I am so glad. Do you mind to subscribe to my channel so I can start going live and make ads?
Hello, I have a Kenmore dishwasher( 665.13744K601M ) that will not power on. The control board looks similar to the one in this video. The fuse is good and power is going to the fuse. My question is how do I check the control board & the touchpad to see what I have to replace. None of the lights work. Additional information both switches in the door lock checked out. The wire from the fuse to one of the door locks has continuity.
Cleaned the pins with an eraser. When I reassembled it the washer light lit up & the united hummed but no water was sprayed. But it will not light again. If any of this is a clue please let me know and thanks in advance for your help.
Joe Z
Mine had the same issue. I installed the new capacitor, and it's going again! Thanks for figuring this out and sharing. I wonder how many of these are scrapped because of this problem?
I am so glad I can help. Would you mind to like and subscribe so it pops up when people search for the problem? The more interaction the more it will show up for people.
Thanks. How did you determine what the problem was other than the capacitor being a little loose?
When getting the capacitor make sure to get one which is rated same as the original for temp at 105 degrees Celsius. 1000uF and 6.3V. Possibly you can get away with 10V. I have checked in terms of space 12mmX15mm (width and height of Capacitor) can fit in the space. Any bigger would be difficult. Please look at the spec sheet of the capacitor, when replacing it has to be low impedance. The main reason I suspect for the failure of the original one was probably due internal heat build up over time due to higher impedance in the capacitors which lead to failure.
Thank you so much!!
Thank you so much for this. You rule
Fantastic! Well done. Thank you.
Is there a way to know which capacitor is shot?
Hello, thank you for this great video. I live in Guatemala and the only capacitor that I can find is 1000uF 16 Volts, but the one you linked on Amazon is 6.3 Volts. The company selling the capacitors said there would be no problem using the 16V capacitor (according to him if I used a lower than 6.3 Volts capacitor it would blow up but not this since it is of higher voltage). However I am worried that using a 16 V instead of a 6.3 V would cause other problems / worsen the situation. Is it safe to use the 16 V capacitor?
Sorry this question is past my expertise. Other than googling the answer I can't help you much.
If I take my part off can you fix for me
Yeah, my board version is slightly older since no SMD's on it but caps (4 total) were shot nevertheless. The machine was almost never used in 20 years (basement), just recently started blinking at me...
@@PirxthePilot were you able to repair the capacitors and get it working?
@@Iron_DPT Well, yes it started working as it should after I replaced (4) caps - old ones were reading way off the spec . No more blinking. Now, the other issue was blowing the thermistor in heat dry mode - well I installed the resettable thermal switch and so far so good - which is confusing a bit - what caps have to do with that...🤷
Mine has a pair of caps there but obviously both are bad. I'm going back with higher voltage caps - 16 volt/1000uf comes in the assortment I ordered.
Note there is a control board reset sequence if needed. Press "heat-dry" then "Normal" then Heat-Dry and Normal again then (after a pause) hit " cancel" pause a few seconds and cancel again.
Mine was blinking had one bad cap.
Fixed that one ran a cycle now its blinking again...
Maybe its just time for a new one.
@@thenomadrhodestry unhooking the motherboard for about 10-15 minutes and then hook it back up. Sometimes static electricity can build up and it can cause the same issue.
I have the same issue.... normal light blinking...... so I disassemble it and disconnected everything, all capacitors looked normal and the board was clean, So I put everything back... plug in to the outlet and NOW Normal and cancel button light is blinking 😞.... HELP.
Go through and recheck all connections. If everything looks to be connected well then the processor may have went out and needs a new control board. Hope this helps.
I seemed to have the same issue, and followed these instructions. However, now I am not getting anything to light up. Any suggestions?
Did you replace the capacitor with the exact one that you removed? Some of the capacitors are different on the board. Unplug the board again and plug it back in.
@@Iron_DPT Yes, I used your recommended capacitor which matched the one I was replacing. The one I removed was quite the struggle, so perhaps I damaged something or my soldering it not up to par. In any case, thank you for the advise, and for making this!
@@jeremyl4949 I'm sorry it did not work for you.
damn...looks like ill be getting a new dishwasher...
I just followed your instructions. All went well … until I pushed the cancel button. Both lights started blinking again. What does this mean? 😩
You may have some static build up. Turn off the breaker and press the start button for 10s then turn the breaker back and.
@@Iron_DPT Did that. Now the “normal” light is blinking.
@@kimpompa156 try unplugging the circuit board again, checking all of the connections of the caps you just soldered.
@@Iron_DPT Did this again. Normal light is still blinking. 😩
@@Iron_DPT I thought I was going to be able to repair it without spending a lot of money. 👎🏼
Yep bad capacitor! Thanks !