I built these in March of 24. This is my third build of SoundBlab's work and like the other the build plans these were very detailed and thought out. Here is my review of these floor standers. I built them to be nearly identical to the video. Possibly the best thing about them is the wife approval factor. It is a 10/10. They are really impressive looking speakers. Musically these are very detailed speakers. The low end is rather snappy and can really hit some deep lows. The high range is very accurate however is a bit fatiguing at high volumes. Where I feel these really excel are as a sound bar alternative for your TV. Voices are very clear and the detail of the top end really makes watching TV more enjoyable. Overall these are beautiful and produce a sound quality that is very pleasant.
I've always loved the look of edge plywood, made a dresser with the same construction. I also use that same Mark audio, one of favorites, took me a little work to get those topend peaks tamed to how I like them, I actually besides padding, slant the whole driver baffle back a good 15*
Mr Blab has uploaded a new video, as an ex car audio (spl comps) guy i get really excited about these build videos. I really enjoy the time you put into each video, great work as always mate.
Build these speakers from simple MDF as I’m not able to do all the nice woodworking stuff. They sound fantastic. Really good speakers. Very coherent. Deep bass. For sure not a one trick loudspeaker as certain full range speakers sometimes are. Go plenty loud.
@@NinO12752 Yes sure most builds which are not FAST. Just one single driver non coax… It can sound really good but almost never with a broad range of music. Acoustic music will be not an issue. But these things do hip hop, house, acoustic music,…… Ofcourse if you only listen one type of music…
I am assembling components to build this speaker over the next few months because I really like the way you put together this video. It looks like it has lots of potential and I look forward to tweaking it once I have it in my listening room.
@@SoundBlab I finally finished the build. Now I'm breaking them in using a NAD M10v2. So far they sound very nice. I made two modifications to your plans. Instead of carrying the 5 degree tilt into the top of the speaker, I cut the baltic birch so that the top of the speaker is parallel to the ground. I had to recalculate the interior volume as a result and ended up changing some of the dimensions slightly to maintain the same volume. I also cut and installed speaker feet instead of the built in speaker stand. Here's a link to a picture: i.pinimg.com/originals/af/f2/80/aff280c6c5cb36fedf9a2f74e237ba1c.jpg
I love watching these videos and I would totally make one of these IF I had a shop or the space to have a shop or the time to even use the shop if I had it. HOWEVER. I would order this kit in a minute if it was available. Regardless, love the time and effort dedicated to the build and to the production of the video.
From my guesstimating, the subwoofer is a ported 12L enclosure with a tune around 35hz. Maximum excursion is reached at 22 watts of input on the subwoofer, resulting in a fairly low SPL of 95Db per speaker. Could be nice for a small room.
Try this concept to blow your mind and you might love it: Run similar drivers out of the box, mounted on top of the box totally open (with like 4" above the box) and angled back a bit (experiment with the angle). And a woofer monted in the box. It's dipole and more highs from the FR driver when open! Tune the woofer to warm up the medrange just right by woofer level and induction. And you won't believe the sound! 🎉 Magnipan, eat your heart out! 😅
Nice. Two-way with wideband and bass driver is my favourite type of speaker, if done right. I guess the similarity to Boenicke isn't purely coincidental, but your freq. response seems much cleaner. I only wonder about midrange room reflections, from the side firing woofers without filter? Because it seems like only the mounting position in the side panels, 90 Deg. from the listener is acting as a low pass and that would make it really sensitive to reflections, wouldn't it?
Thanks. Yes, I like the Scandinavian look and feel of the Boenicke speakers and do take some aesthetic inspiration from them I suppose. The side-firing woofer is really a function of the roll-off required without filter, but whether your driver faces front or sideways, it still radiates into the room and causes reflections. So set-up is crucial, but not impossible to get a really good result. One thing it does do is add to the imaging and sense of spaciousness in the soundstage, since it does play up a bit higher than normal.
I like you builds. Very nice looking speakers. I noticed that you have a distinctive way you do the bass ports for your bass reflex. Is there some kind of formula you use for how long you make the inner board and how wide you make the channel for the port? Cheers!
The port dimensions are determined by the specs of the woofer, but normally I use the inside width of the enclosure as a basis to determine the slot height and length.
Typically if the speakers are less than 2 meters apart, I would recommend they are set outwards, however this is mostly for other performance reasons and wall reflections. More than 2 meters and they can point inwards. At these distances it makes not difference.
Thanks! The full-range driver does a pretty good job, and I did not feel the extra expense of a tweeter and crossover components was necessary in this case.
@@SoundBlabAbsolutely the case with the Mark Audio drivers. Just a quick look at their FR curves should explain why they’re so popular with DIYers - I fell in love with the brand well over a decade ago, and while one of my final builds before retiring from DIY construction was a more conventional MTM with 4” midbass and soft dome tweeter, my HT has remained MA drivers for 7 of the 9 Atmos channels for over 6 years.
Again nice build! I know both drivers, the Chr from a compact single driver design and the TB is in my portable boombox. Both good perfroming drivers, i can imagine this is a nice speaker for a lot of listening hours :)
Loving the sound coming out of this build!! In your opinion would they handle opera voices well? I've recently gone down the opera LP from the late 70s early 80s rabbit hole lol and am looking to better my stereo and speakers for better enjoyment! tx
Thanks. yes I think they can handle opera well, however I think my 2.5 way transmission line speaker handles opera much better. ruclips.net/video/GxFb-Zn5BKk/видео.html
Yes, the dimensions of the baffle and the side with the sub is critical to the modelled crossover, as well as the placement of the drivers. Changing it will influence the frequency response.
That’d very likely depend on the room. If the “main” speakers descend deep enough into the lowest couple of octaves, you might well run into room mode issues that EQ can’t fix for more than a very small listening window. As folks often find with more serious home theatre systems, sometimes the best solution is to high pass the mains / centre and not co-locate the woofers/subs with the mains.
Great build! You do some great kits. I do wonder how your router bits handled the nails from the nail gun? Consider making a new TL speaker with a bit bigger paper woofers. PCM look a like. The HiVi TL version you made are great, but bigger gives more dynamics.
Thanks! So far the router bits handle it without any chips on the cutting edges. However, I try not to do it too often. Yes, a TL with bigger drivers will be on my radar in the future.
I’m currently building it. Thanks for the detailed plans. However, it seems you do not fix the filter to the bottom. Is that correct or did I miss something?
I am building a subwoofer with 4 inch woofer and a 8 inch passive raditor Will a ported subwoofer be a better choice or this will be good? Also can you give measurements for the box?
I used a Zoom H1, which will reduce the stereo effect that you will get in real life. However, the purpose of the sound demo is more to show that the speakers do play and work rather than giving the listener an idea of the quality, since this will be determined by the quality of your system this is played through.
These are maybe easier to build and has more bass extension. In the end its a bit of a toss-up, and probably more about which one you like the looks of more.
good day Sir, thank you for the high value content. just noticed that you haven't included any local (SA) links to parts you've listed in the description. would this be possible for future videos? thanks!
What made you put the slot baffle on the front like that? I think it better approach would be to baffle the four inch driver as well if you put a board all the way down just behind the driver coming out at the front of the port and have the bass Port going up the back, ever tried it like that? Why didn't you put the component values what are they?
I’ve found on numerous of my own DIY builds - some very similar to this configuration, but with other drivers, and even much smaller enclosure types - that front port locations provide more placement flexibility without the risk of undesirable boundary reinforcement / room gain issues.
Hi, thank you for the good video. I always love full range driver speaker (especially with passive bass radiator since it's sealed from dust getting inside) but it's really hard to find unless you custom made. Can i plug the speaker with amp like marantz NR1200?
Nice cabinets and you put in a lot of woodworking skills into them. You should really use better quality Markaudio's full-range drivers. Your demo above the mid to high freq. sounds a little metallic, could be my hearing or the drivers(*) are not run in yet. Overall sounds good. * Better quality FR drivers(non-metallic membrane) will reduce the metallic sound.
Thanks. I do not think we can say they sound metallic, but rather that they potentially show typical characteristics of metal coned drivers, which is also a generalisation really. I could have used one of Mark Audio's higher quality drivers (note I did not say better, also very subjective term), but the aim of the project was to use this combination to keep costs down and in my opinion, the result is very good for the cost of the drivers and certainly value for money. I can always use different drivers in another build, but for this one this is it.
Would love a set of these 😮 unfortunately I don't have the equipment to make them 😢. They look like the pearl acoustic Sibelius I've been looking into. How much would it cost to have a set made do you think?
If you like the Sibelius speakers then check out the Pencil 11 speaker plans, which use the Mark Audio Pluvia 11 driver. It's basically the same driver that's been tweaked a little. Apparently the sound is very similar to the Sibelius without the equivalent price tag. 😋
You measured the speaker reponse or the manufacturer made available on the website? Here in brazil is veery hard to get the response from drivers and when we get it is a low quality PDF xD
How’s the sound compared to the line array project u made video. I have a medium to large room so I feel 6.5” sub will not create pressure Hope someday u can make a project of a powerful speaker I listen to loud music edm rock pop I love pressure
Overall I prefer the sound of this one. And you will be surprised how much a small woofer like this can pressurise a medium sized room. But with any smaller sized speaker a subwoofer is almost always a must if you want to achieve the lower octaves, at least in a larger room.
how so? his graphs show he tamed the peak that would fatigue you after a bit? not disagreeing, genuinely curious being action was taken to address that issue.
@@cdv9028 I also use these exact full range drivers in some builds and yes I can see how they can be a little hot in that range I myself pad down those peaks a hair more... Just a little makes a difference, also even though they measure that they go up that high they don't have the same "air" as a tweeter. Just depends on what you like and how sensitive your hearing is.
@@cdv9028 Indeed I am sensitive to high frequencies, the only tweeter technologies good for my ears are aluminium dome and silk. Even cables are scrutinised when building a system as multistrand cables of average design bring distortion and timing artifacts to my ears while solid core ones are not transparent enough. Sensitive ears are a curse when you can not afford a good system...
The build is pretty good and the aesthetic is fine, but the sound is "boxy", and this is predictable. This cabinet, due to its geometry, has a lot of internal standing waves, which modify the frequency response and tone, mostly for the frontal wide-range driver. The panel that divides the two chambers of the speaker is angled at 90 degrees, you have missed an opportunity to reduce some standing waves, even though most of them occur between the side walls of the cabinet. The sound-absorbing material cannot cancel the internal reflections of the cabinet; it can only attenuate them. Additionally it seems to me that you put too much sound dampening material in the woofer chamber. As a result, the behavior of this driver is more similar to a closed box than to a bass reflex. It appears that you didn't filtered the lower driver, this is good for the phase between the two drivers but the mid frequencies coming out from the woofer will negatively affect the response of the speaker in that range. I suggest modifying the cabinet by tilting a side wall and the internal one. This will increase the complexity of building the cabinet, but it will surely reduce the worst standing waves. I also suggest filtering the lower driver with a second-order filter. By inverting the polarity of the driver, the phase in low range should align with the wide-range driver. Anyway, I really appreciate your work and the onesty in making this video showing the project, the construction and the sound of your speakers!
There is no 20 kHz with a driver of that size and no, it will never be better than any tweeter. It does have other qualities and advantages, but it's just a waste to use it with additional subwoofer, especially in conventional cabinets and passive crossover.
@@SoundBlab just saying from my personal experience, I also have a 4 inch wideband. It's best used as a single driver - take a look at Sibelius speaker. When you add a crossover, you lose that point source ideal phase and you get loads of other problems.. Not saying it's a bad speaker tho, don't get me wrong.
Yes, if you look at the port tuning in the impedance response you can clearly see that this driver in this enclosure volume does indeed extend all the way top 30Hz.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
The first 1,000 people to use the link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: skl.sh/soundblab08221
thankyou
Good channel DIY thank you
I built these in March of 24. This is my third build of SoundBlab's work and like the other the build plans these were very detailed and thought out. Here is my review of these floor standers. I built them to be nearly identical to the video. Possibly the best thing about them is the wife approval factor. It is a 10/10. They are really impressive looking speakers. Musically these are very detailed speakers. The low end is rather snappy and can really hit some deep lows. The high range is very accurate however is a bit fatiguing at high volumes. Where I feel these really excel are as a sound bar alternative for your TV. Voices are very clear and the detail of the top end really makes watching TV more enjoyable. Overall these are beautiful and produce a sound quality that is very pleasant.
Hi, thanks so much for the feedback and review. Glad that you are enjoying these!
I haven't built mine yet but it is still the dream. Getting closer. I hope.
sounds exactly like the speakers in my samsung TV im watching this on :D. Nice work and Great looking speakers!
I've always loved the look of edge plywood, made a dresser with the same construction. I also use that same Mark audio, one of favorites, took me a little work to get those topend peaks tamed to how I like them, I actually besides padding, slant the whole driver baffle back a good 15*
Very impressive look and wonderful sound (as best a RUclips recording can show). Thanks for the video.
Many thanks!
They r amazing...i hope these were in my house.and i can listen them for years
Thanks
Love the overtones at 21:40!
👍
Mr Blab has uploaded a new video, as an ex car audio (spl comps) guy i get really excited about these build videos. I really enjoy the time you put into each video, great work as always mate.
Thanks so much!
Зачёт! классный НЧ Tang Band W6-1139SIF 6,5-дюймовый драйвер сабвуфера
Build these speakers from simple MDF as I’m not able to do all the nice woodworking stuff. They sound fantastic. Really good speakers. Very coherent. Deep bass. For sure not a one trick loudspeaker as certain full range speakers sometimes are. Go plenty loud.
Any examples for the „certain full range speakers“?
@@NinO12752 Yes sure most builds which are not FAST. Just one single driver non coax… It can sound really good but almost never with a broad range of music. Acoustic music will be not an issue. But these things do hip hop, house, acoustic music,…… Ofcourse if you only listen one type of music…
Nice, happy that your build came out well and you are happy with the perfomance!
I am assembling components to build this speaker over the next few months because I really like the way you put together this video. It looks like it has lots of potential and I look forward to tweaking it once I have it in my listening room.
Thanks so much! Enjoy the build. Send me some pics when you are done.
@@SoundBlab I finally finished the build. Now I'm breaking them in using a NAD M10v2. So far they sound very nice. I made two modifications to your plans. Instead of carrying the 5 degree tilt into the top of the speaker, I cut the baltic birch so that the top of the speaker is parallel to the ground. I had to recalculate the interior volume as a result and ended up changing some of the dimensions slightly to maintain the same volume. I also cut and installed speaker feet instead of the built in speaker stand. Here's a link to a picture: i.pinimg.com/originals/af/f2/80/aff280c6c5cb36fedf9a2f74e237ba1c.jpg
The plywood cut was a great and new stile! Very nice!
Thank you!
I love watching these videos and I would totally make one of these IF I had a shop or the space to have a shop or the time to even use the shop if I had it. HOWEVER. I would order this kit in a minute if it was available. Regardless, love the time and effort dedicated to the build and to the production of the video.
Thanks man, great encouragement!
Very nice, ply on edge is a interesting look .
Thank you!
Nice WAW build!
Amazing... Just amazing ❤❤❤
Man they look and sound awesome. Great job
How do you know how they sound like? Based on YT video?
Thanks!
Ahhhhh... can't beat a good bit of Mongolian throat singing. Great looking and sounding speakers!
Thanks
Nice speakers!
Thanks
Excelent done!
Thanks
Nice work! I have a pair of Eikona 2 drivers that I bought about 4 years ago that might go well in this design with an enclosure volume tweak.
Awesome! Love every minute of your project!
Thanks so much!
@@SoundBlab can you please make a video on how to measure the frequency response of the speaker? I think many people will be interested
Now that is really a good looking cabinet!
Thanks
I really enjoy your videos! Thank You for what you do. 👍👍👍
My pleasure!
Well done, inspiring as always!
Thanks
Great video. Design very much like the Boenicke Audio W8 floor stands.
Thanks!
From my guesstimating, the subwoofer is a ported 12L enclosure with a tune around 35hz. Maximum excursion is reached at 22 watts of input on the subwoofer, resulting in a fairly low SPL of 95Db per speaker. Could be nice for a small room.
Try this concept to blow your mind and you might love it:
Run similar drivers out of the box, mounted on top of the box totally open (with like 4" above the box) and angled back a bit (experiment with the angle). And a woofer monted in the box. It's dipole and more highs from the FR driver when open! Tune the woofer to warm up the medrange just right by woofer level and induction. And you won't believe the sound! 🎉 Magnipan, eat your heart out! 😅
You're always build premium sound
Thanks man!
after upgradung you will too
Will the manual include cross over build details ? Thanks
Yes it will
good job....
Thanks
Whats the software that you used for the circuit and frequency response?
Nice. Two-way with wideband and bass driver is my favourite type of speaker, if done right. I guess the similarity to Boenicke isn't purely coincidental, but your freq. response seems much cleaner.
I only wonder about midrange room reflections, from the side firing woofers without filter? Because it seems like only the mounting position in the side panels, 90 Deg. from the listener is acting as a low pass and that would make it really sensitive to reflections, wouldn't it?
Thanks. Yes, I like the Scandinavian look and feel of the Boenicke speakers and do take some aesthetic inspiration from them I suppose. The side-firing woofer is really a function of the roll-off required without filter, but whether your driver faces front or sideways, it still radiates into the room and causes reflections. So set-up is crucial, but not impossible to get a really good result. One thing it does do is add to the imaging and sense of spaciousness in the soundstage, since it does play up a bit higher than normal.
I like you builds. Very nice looking speakers. I noticed that you have a distinctive way you do the bass ports for your bass reflex. Is there some kind of formula you use for how long you make the inner board and how wide you make the channel for the port? Cheers!
The port dimensions are determined by the specs of the woofer, but normally I use the inside width of the enclosure as a basis to determine the slot height and length.
@@SoundBlabYou could also say “there’s some math involved” in the design of an MLTL or any of the variations of Voigt pipes.
Why would you face the two drivers towards each other? It seems you might get some cancelation issues.. ??
Love the build! Very nice work!
Typically if the speakers are less than 2 meters apart, I would recommend they are set outwards, however this is mostly for other performance reasons and wall reflections. More than 2 meters and they can point inwards. At these distances it makes not difference.
Why no tweeter in this build? Very good work!
Thanks! The full-range driver does a pretty good job, and I did not feel the extra expense of a tweeter and crossover components was necessary in this case.
@@SoundBlabAbsolutely the case with the Mark Audio drivers. Just a quick look at their FR curves should explain why they’re so popular with DIYers - I fell in love with the brand well over a decade ago, and while one of my final builds before retiring from DIY construction was a more conventional MTM with 4” midbass and soft dome tweeter, my HT has remained MA drivers for 7 of the 9 Atmos channels for over 6 years.
Those speakers look fantastic. How would you compare the sound to the W6? Many thx
Peter
Thanks. These are the W6's. Compared to the W5's they are very similar in performance. I almost like the smaller W5's better.
Beautiful woodwork. Great looking speakers. Loved the video. Wish I had your skills.
Thank you very much!
Great build! Would you mind sharing the name of the song with drums?
Again nice build! I know both drivers, the Chr from a compact single driver design and the TB is in my portable boombox. Both good perfroming drivers, i can imagine this is a nice speaker for a lot of listening hours :)
Cool, thanks!
this sound great lul, well worth 10k
Veery nice!
Thanks
Loving the sound coming out of this build!! In your opinion would they handle opera voices well? I've recently gone down the opera LP from the late 70s early 80s rabbit hole lol and am looking to better my stereo and speakers for better enjoyment! tx
Thanks. yes I think they can handle opera well, however I think my 2.5 way transmission line speaker handles opera much better. ruclips.net/video/GxFb-Zn5BKk/видео.html
Do the dimensions make a difference here? And could you mount the sub on the face and get a similar result?
Yes, the dimensions of the baffle and the side with the sub is critical to the modelled crossover, as well as the placement of the drivers. Changing it will influence the frequency response.
You still have Marantz SR4500 like me. What do you think about this amp in 2023 ?
hi..whats better suond subwoofer separed box or speaker fullrang and subwoofer??
tanks
That’d very likely depend on the room. If the “main” speakers descend deep enough into the lowest couple of octaves, you might well run into room mode issues that EQ can’t fix for more than a very small listening window. As folks often find with more serious home theatre systems, sometimes the best solution is to high pass the mains / centre and not co-locate the woofers/subs with the mains.
Great build! You do some great kits. I do wonder how your router bits handled the nails from the nail gun? Consider making a new TL speaker with a bit bigger paper woofers. PCM look a like. The HiVi TL version you made are great, but bigger gives more dynamics.
Thanks! So far the router bits handle it without any chips on the cutting edges. However, I try not to do it too often. Yes, a TL with bigger drivers will be on my radar in the future.
@@SoundBlab 👍😀
I’m currently building it. Thanks for the detailed plans. However, it seems you do not fix the filter to the bottom. Is that correct or did I miss something?
I am building a subwoofer with 4 inch woofer and a 8 inch passive raditor Will a ported subwoofer be a better choice or this will be good? Also can you give measurements for the box?
Is this recorded in mono? Somehow there's like no stereo imaging in the recording.
I used a Zoom H1, which will reduce the stereo effect that you will get in real life. However, the purpose of the sound demo is more to show that the speakers do play and work rather than giving the listener an idea of the quality, since this will be determined by the quality of your system this is played through.
@@SoundBlabYeah, “why don’t I get that sub 40Hz gut punch while listening to a YT video on my earbuds😂
Great vid, will purchase plans, I am torn between these and the Transmission lines you built previously, how does the sound compare?
These are maybe easier to build and has more bass extension. In the end its a bit of a toss-up, and probably more about which one you like the looks of more.
the experience kind of not suit the score, its great and need no upgrade
the base ?
good day Sir, thank you for the high value content. just noticed that you haven't included any local (SA) links to parts you've listed in the description. would this be possible for future videos? thanks!
Hi, thanks you. Unfortunately, these parts are not available locally, that is the reason I do not have local links.
i love the look. but i wonder if you had filled in the Voids in the wood with some kind of silicon ?. it it possible??.
I fill voids in the edges with hot glue
Which Amp and DAC did you use here? :)
Amp is a IOTAVX SA3 (www.iotaenterprises.co.uk/products/iotavx-audiophile-stereo-amplifier-sa3) and the DAC is a SMSL M500 (amzn.to/3Tcr0Mq).
What tipe is that spray glue?
Soudal Contact adhesive spray
Could the port be moved to the back of the enclosure?
Yes, but you will have to lift the speaker terminals up on the back panel.
What made you put the slot baffle on the front like that? I think it better approach would be to baffle the four inch driver as well if you put a board all the way down just behind the driver coming out at the front of the port and have the bass Port going up the back, ever tried it like that? Why didn't you put the component values what are they?
You buy the buildplan, it has all the info you need. It’s a small price for the amount of work that he puts in to them (and these videos ;)
I’ve found on numerous of my own DIY builds - some very similar to this configuration, but with other drivers, and even much smaller enclosure types - that front port locations provide more placement flexibility without the risk of undesirable boundary reinforcement / room gain issues.
What was that crossover software?
XSim
Hi, thank you for the good video. I always love full range driver speaker (especially with passive bass radiator since it's sealed from dust getting inside) but it's really hard to find unless you custom made. Can i plug the speaker with amp like marantz NR1200?
yes, you can
@@SoundBlab thank you for the reply
So out of everything you have built and seen. What is the best price to performance set of speakers (or 2.1 setup) so far?
Nice cabinets and you put in a lot of woodworking skills into them. You should really use better quality Markaudio's full-range drivers. Your demo above the mid to high freq. sounds a little metallic, could be my hearing or the drivers(*) are not run in yet. Overall sounds good.
* Better quality FR drivers(non-metallic membrane) will reduce the metallic sound.
Thanks. I do not think we can say they sound metallic, but rather that they potentially show typical characteristics of metal coned drivers, which is also a generalisation really. I could have used one of Mark Audio's higher quality drivers (note I did not say better, also very subjective term), but the aim of the project was to use this combination to keep costs down and in my opinion, the result is very good for the cost of the drivers and certainly value for money. I can always use different drivers in another build, but for this one this is it.
@@SoundBlab I still think you should use better quality FR drivers(*), cos your labor is NOT FREE.
* with smoother top end and midrange.
@@yttean98Pluvia 11 would be an excellent choice maybe? 🤔 It would handle more power also 😁
Would love a set of these 😮 unfortunately I don't have the equipment to make them 😢. They look like the pearl acoustic Sibelius I've been looking into. How much would it cost to have a set made do you think?
If you like the Sibelius speakers then check out the Pencil 11 speaker plans, which use the Mark Audio Pluvia 11 driver. It's basically the same driver that's been tweaked a little. Apparently the sound is very similar to the Sibelius without the equivalent price tag. 😋
You measured the speaker reponse or the manufacturer made available on the website? Here in brazil is veery hard to get the response from drivers and when we get it is a low quality PDF xD
I measure myself.
Can you name the songs that you used here?
What software do you use?
XSim libinst.com/
Y u don't like Tweeter...???
How’s the sound compared to the line array project u made video.
I have a medium to large room so I feel 6.5” sub will not create pressure
Hope someday u can make a project of a powerful speaker I listen to loud music edm rock pop I love pressure
Overall I prefer the sound of this one. And you will be surprised how much a small woofer like this can pressurise a medium sized room. But with any smaller sized speaker a subwoofer is almost always a must if you want to achieve the lower octaves, at least in a larger room.
@@SoundBlab what do you like about these over the TL? would any adjustments / mods make your favor swing back to the TL?
I always thought side-firing bass speakers should be as close to the ground as possible, until I picked up a pair of Bose 401's
It's not technically a full range but a 2-way if you add a second speaker and a crossover to it...
La primera de amanecer de los muertos no la incluyen y es la mejor
It sounds like the 'Sound stage' is very wide...
Thanks
The sound is a bit sibiland to my ears, compared to most of your other designs, otherwise the boxes look superb.
how so? his graphs show he tamed the peak that would fatigue you after a bit? not disagreeing, genuinely curious being action was taken to address that issue.
@@cdv9028 I also use these exact full range drivers in some builds and yes I can see how they can be a little hot in that range I myself pad down those peaks a hair more... Just a little makes a difference, also even though they measure that they go up that high they don't have the same "air" as a tweeter. Just depends on what you like and how sensitive your hearing is.
@@cdv9028 Indeed I am sensitive to high frequencies, the only tweeter technologies good for my ears are aluminium dome and silk. Even cables are scrutinised when building a system as multistrand cables of average design bring distortion and timing artifacts to my ears while solid core ones are not transparent enough.
Sensitive ears are a curse when you can not afford a good system...
@@attainableaudio4533 Seems to me a timbre issue and not a frequency one. Certainly the drivers are limited in what they can do.
The build is pretty good and the aesthetic is fine, but the sound is "boxy", and this is predictable. This cabinet, due to its geometry, has a lot of internal standing waves, which modify the frequency response and tone, mostly for the frontal wide-range driver. The panel that divides the two chambers of the speaker is angled at 90 degrees, you have missed an opportunity to reduce some standing waves, even though most of them occur between the side walls of the cabinet.
The sound-absorbing material cannot cancel the internal reflections of the cabinet; it can only attenuate them. Additionally it seems to me that you put too much sound dampening material in the woofer chamber. As a result, the behavior of this driver is more similar to a closed box than to a bass reflex.
It appears that you didn't filtered the lower driver, this is good for the phase between the two drivers but the mid frequencies coming out from the woofer will negatively affect the response of the speaker in that range.
I suggest modifying the cabinet by tilting a side wall and the internal one. This will increase the complexity of building the cabinet, but it will surely reduce the worst standing waves. I also suggest filtering the lower driver with a second-order filter. By inverting the polarity of the driver, the phase in low range should align with the wide-range driver.
Anyway, I really appreciate your work and the onesty in making this video showing the project, the construction and the sound of your speakers!
00:30 You must have a really good pair of ears if you aim for 20 MHz...
😂 should be 20Khz, just a slip of the tongue.
@@SoundBlab Just stop being so humble... Now we all know you are THE real batman!
Too much time on the cabinet, too little on the actual crossover construction
Crossover assembly not the most gripping footage in the world, but I could try and give it more air in a future video. Thanks for the feedback.
There is no 20 kHz with a driver of that size and no, it will never be better than any tweeter.
It does have other qualities and advantages, but it's just a waste to use it with additional subwoofer, especially in conventional cabinets and passive crossover.
Luckily, we do not have to agree, but I appreciate your comment none the less, albeit a bit on the negative side.
@@SoundBlab just saying from my personal experience, I also have a 4 inch wideband. It's best used as a single driver - take a look at Sibelius speaker. When you add a crossover, you lose that point source ideal phase and you get loads of other problems..
Not saying it's a bad speaker tho, don't get me wrong.
A
30Hz to 20.000KHz ?? LOL
Yes, if you look at the port tuning in the impedance response you can clearly see that this driver in this enclosure volume does indeed extend all the way top 30Hz.
@@SoundBlab haha.. you said in the video 20.000Khz. that's 20 Mhz....
Awesome job, it's beautiful.
Track list please.
Good my friend I'm happy to watching your videos thank you
Hello my friends I'm from Morocco welcome to my channel thank you
Thanks.