Hi 👋, nice work, I have been into transmission line loudspeaker cabinets for nearly 50 odd years, And I have built a few sets over the years , Cannot see how this can be a transmission line loudspeaker cabinet, it is just a box with bracing inside it, I love the veneer, I just wished you spent more time on it to get a great finish on it, A very high gloss lacquer. I think we’ve been very impressive., Using your fingers sanding it down leaves grooves in it. You need a block with a soft pad under it., to prevent the ripples and groove being informed from sanding, With your fingers, I have just recently put new driver units into my cabinets I have used, 8” SEAS , 3” tweeters, powered by NAD 150w, they stand approximately 5’-5” foot in height, with a line length around 14 foot, and they fire out the bottom, Good luck with your next projects I look forward to watching, 👀. Phil from the moulin France.
Cheers for the comment Phil! . I'm no cabinet maker just enjoy DIY and the whole aim ofnthis channel is just to encourage people to actually create something. Finish, it does say in the video that you could take it to the next level by spending more time on it but, i like to feel the texture of wood. With regards the mention of TL, just Google Dr Scott Lindgrens Pensil design and you will note it refers to a MLTL.👍
The MLTL is a variation on the vented box theme, but has a number of differences from a regular bass reflex type. The majority of bass reflex / ducted vent enclosures are derived based on Helmholtz (cavity) resonance theory, which assumes a uniform internal air-particle density, and no Eigenmodes (standing waves) present. For enclosures where the overall dimensions are relatively close to each other, this serves quite well, once the enclosure is appropriately damped. However, the assumptions begin to fail when one dimension is stretched relative to the others. In such cases, the standing waves begin to affect the behaviour of the enclosure and its output. Therefore, a quality enclosure design will account for these when developed, either attenuating, or, as is the case with MLTLs, actively using the standing waves as part of the enclosure alignment / tuning, rather than pure Helmholtz behaviour. There is no penalty for doing so (one is not ‘faster’ or ‘slower’ than the other for e.g.), and a number of advantages can be obtained. In the case of the Pensils, the enclosure has a large volume compared to a normal vented box, and the longitudinal standing wave is factored into the enclosure alignment. Without damping, the result is a large excess of enclosure gain over a relatively broad tuning compared to a typical vented box. The enclosure is then stuffed, to typical transmission-line levels, with damping material. This provides a much-flattened impedance load similar to a pure transmission line, but with relatively broad-band gain. (Note: technically, if the electrical TL analogy is to be applied narrowly, a TL would be an enclosure designed to provide the flattest possible impedance load, with no other considerations at all. The term is rarely applied so narrowly: even Bailey’s original article on the subject used the terms ‘Transmission Line’ and ‘non-resonant’ in its title, and then proceeded in the main text to describe an enclosure that was, in fact, resonant). The Mark Audio drive units have a small amount of low-frequency gain built into their responses. Under typical room conditions, this matches well to the enclosure output, and avoids the need for shelving filters. The cabinets are designed to have a removable back: the owner can then trim the quantity of the stuffing material to suit their own room acoustics and personal preferences, without needing to make physical changes to the enclosure itself. In any enclosure that uses standing waves as part of the alignment, the position of the driver (location of excitation) affects the behaviour, most significantly the activation of harmonic modes that occur in an un-tapered line at odd multiples of the fundamental. End loading (placing the driver at the ‘closed’ end of the line) will ensure maximum excitation of the fundamental, and all the harmonic modes. By adjusting the tap location (where the driver is positioned along the axial length of the line), it is possible to reduce the excitation of these unwanted harmonic modes (which are further attenuated by the stuffing within the enclosure. Note that while it is often claimed that stuffing reduces the speed of sound in a transmission line, in fact, as proved by Augspurger, King et al, this reduction is in fact quite small). Adjusting the position of the vent can also have an effect on output; in the case of the Pensils, it is deliberately located at the end, partly because they were intended to be as physically simple as possible, but also because the driver position and relatively high stuffing density are sufficient to reduce the effects of the unwanted harmonic modes without needing any offset to the vent position.
They do (the music played throughout the build although only low quality royalty free stuff is actually from the finished drivers) but, next build will be. smaller😂
Very nice indeed. I have thought about buying a nice tidy pair of Tannoy DC1000's, I have the DC3000's in my living room, and using the DC1000's dual concentric driver to form the basis of a TL speaker. It strikes me that a dual concentric driver with an 8" diameter should go deep and provide good imaging. Any experienced builders thoughts are welcome :).
Thank you for this. I am just about to have a go at my first build. The carpentry shouldn’t be too difficult for me, but do you think I would get better performance if I use a superior more expensive driver? Thanks again for your inspiration.
Possibly but this design is for the Markaudio range which do go up in price and all of them come with different build plans. ndt5.net/c/?si=14570&li=1627332&wi=365189&ws=&dl=en%2F
Madisound sells the driver for around $65.00 and also provides two suggested bass reflex cabinets. This design will provide full range sound including bass down to around 30Hz or lower while the vented cabs will get into the 40's.
@@DIY-AUDIO I am watching almost all videos of 3inch full range speakers but you cannot share the design dimensions the cabinet. My Favourite design is "ruclips.net/video/XJRIyV3jX0s/видео.htmlsi=we2UDg6evZDLhW3F" can you provide the dimensions of this built
@@saqlainpatwekar7320 hi, really sorry i cant as i gave them away when i started the channel in a competition. From memory they were only about 25cm tall by about 12 wide and 17 deep but cant be more specific as the other similar sized white/oak fronted ones i sold.
beautiful exotic veneer. Always envy people with the skillset, tools and space to build spkrs. I have a pr of TDL RTL3 box which I'm planning to fit a Lii FR into just for casual listening...just curious how a cheap FR would sound with random matching of driver n box...LOL
Beautiful work. Love these videos, every time I watch I learn a new way tackle some of my diy problems. What made you move away from your usual mitre joint construction for the main part of the cabinet?
Just the size of these. My small second hand table saw woulsnt of been up to the job of mitre joints and ply is better to screw into than mdf (my usual material)
I supose the length of the line must be the distance between the driver and the port. But the extra volum must make it behave like a ordinary ported box too. This must be a kind of hybrid at the end.
Like the matrix plywood construction. The audiophiles will tell you that you need to check the electrical parts with a magnet to avoid having any ferrous components in the signal path. Having ferrous parts causes some hysteresis in the response which you hear as distortion. Keeping iron and steel out of components does seem to make a difference...
It's just the fact that it's 18mm ply and over a metre in height. Google the Pensil Speaker Build (or just visit the Markaudio website for all the build plans) and bracing isn't a necessity but is advised!! 👍
Just another ported box speaker, sorry. Berry well built and braced though. Bet it sounds great. If you are going to build a transmission line speaker they are more of a calibrated tapered tube design. Loads of videos on RUclips to understand the calculations.
Very nice build but I bet you were disappointed with the finish on the wood? RUclips is fantastic for learning how to build things but woodworking youtubers never finish any projects well. As a French polisher it is easy to get a flat mirror finish to any woodwork and you are never going to rest a hot cup of tea on these or put them out in the rain so why not use French polish? Follow these steps, 1) sand flat 2) mix thin french polish with pumice powder and work the area with a fad/rubber in a round motion, the very fine sawdust will fill the grain 3) sand with 400 grit 4) apply many coats of french polish with mop brush in long strokes leaving time to dry in-between each coat (on a hot day less than 10 mins) 5) use the fad/rubber with thin french polish to smooth out any brush marks and leave a very shiny finish 6) use 0000 wire wool and very lightly go over the finish to take off the bright shine then use wax polish and buff after. This sounds long winded but using other methods is longer because drying time with french polish is so quick, first timers don't be afraid of trying french polish, it's cheap, long lasting, robust (unless getting wet) easy to repair, and if you mess it up easy to remove and start again. Oh and it looks amazing. I will leave a link to a guy on youtube who has how to videos on french polishing, he is the best, ... www.youtube.com/@theenglishpolisher
Nice work but sorry dude it’s nothing close to 1/4 wave. Not even a viable variation. Also that box is too big and won’t offer suspension for the speaker and your reach xmax very easily. My guess would be 10-15 watts
Thought I'd leave it so that people like you could comment😂😂. Tbh, I damaged the veneer by not ironing it with a greaseproof paper and it dried out completely and cracked.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Masterpiece!
Thankyou. A surprising amount of work.
Great build although I don't like the glossy veneer at all.
Nor do I now I've finished it!! 😂
The enclosure wrapped in impressive veneer is wonderful.
You can enjoy the sound of a single unit.
👍
A very convincing substitute for vintage vinyl 60's speaker covering. But seriously faux vinyl aside, quite a brilliant craftsman!
Thanks for comment but this was a real wood veneer not a vinyl!!
Hi 👋, nice work, I have been into transmission line loudspeaker cabinets for nearly 50 odd years, And I have built a few sets over the years , Cannot see how this can be a transmission line loudspeaker cabinet, it is just a box with bracing inside it, I love the veneer, I just wished you spent more time on it to get a great finish on it, A very high gloss lacquer. I think we’ve been very impressive., Using your fingers sanding it down leaves grooves in it. You need a block with a soft pad under it., to prevent the ripples and groove being informed from sanding, With your fingers, I have just recently put new driver units into my cabinets I have used, 8” SEAS , 3” tweeters, powered by NAD 150w, they stand approximately 5’-5” foot in height, with a line length around 14 foot, and they fire out the bottom,
Good luck with your next projects I look forward to watching, 👀. Phil from the moulin France.
Cheers for the comment Phil! . I'm no cabinet maker just enjoy DIY and the whole aim ofnthis channel is just to encourage people to actually create something.
Finish, it does say in the video that you could take it to the next level by spending more time on it but, i like to feel the texture of wood. With regards the mention of TL, just Google Dr Scott Lindgrens Pensil design and you will note it refers to a MLTL.👍
@@DIY-AUDIO It's not MLTL, it's a big box with a hole in the bottom.
@@janosnagy4382 kjfaudio.com/product/super-pensil-12-diy-speaker-kit/
@@DIY-AUDIO It's all a scam, no matter what they say. It's a big box with a hole in the bottom. For £1,200 you have to be lying a good big one.
The MLTL is a variation on the vented box theme, but has a number of differences from a regular bass reflex type. The majority of bass reflex / ducted vent enclosures are derived based on Helmholtz (cavity) resonance theory, which assumes a uniform internal air-particle density, and no Eigenmodes (standing waves) present. For enclosures where the overall dimensions are relatively close to each other, this serves quite well, once the enclosure is appropriately damped. However, the assumptions begin to fail when one dimension is stretched relative to the others. In such cases, the standing waves begin to affect the behaviour of the enclosure and its output. Therefore, a quality enclosure design will account for these when developed, either attenuating, or, as is the case with MLTLs, actively using the standing waves as part of the enclosure alignment / tuning, rather than pure Helmholtz behaviour. There is no penalty for doing so (one is not ‘faster’ or ‘slower’ than the other for e.g.), and a number of advantages can be obtained.
In the case of the Pensils, the enclosure has a large volume compared to a normal vented box, and the longitudinal standing wave is factored into the enclosure alignment. Without damping, the result is a large excess of enclosure gain over a relatively broad tuning compared to a typical vented box. The enclosure is then stuffed, to typical transmission-line levels, with damping material. This provides a much-flattened impedance load similar to a pure transmission line, but with relatively broad-band gain. (Note: technically, if the electrical TL analogy is to be applied narrowly, a TL would be an enclosure designed to provide the flattest possible impedance load, with no other considerations at all. The term is rarely applied so narrowly: even Bailey’s original article on the subject used the terms ‘Transmission Line’ and ‘non-resonant’ in its title, and then proceeded in the main text to describe an enclosure that was, in fact, resonant). The Mark Audio drive units have a small amount of low-frequency gain built into their responses. Under typical room conditions, this matches well to the enclosure output, and avoids the need for shelving filters. The cabinets are designed to have a removable back: the owner can then trim the quantity of the stuffing material to suit their own room acoustics and personal preferences, without needing to make physical changes to the enclosure itself.
In any enclosure that uses standing waves as part of the alignment, the position of the driver (location of excitation) affects the behaviour, most significantly the activation of harmonic modes that occur in an un-tapered line at odd multiples of the fundamental. End loading (placing the driver at the ‘closed’ end of the line) will ensure maximum excitation of the fundamental, and all the harmonic modes. By adjusting the tap location (where the driver is positioned along the axial length of the line), it is possible to reduce the excitation of these unwanted harmonic modes (which are further attenuated by the stuffing within the enclosure. Note that while it is often claimed that stuffing reduces the speed of sound in a transmission line, in fact, as proved by Augspurger, King et al, this reduction is in fact quite small). Adjusting the position of the vent can also have an effect on output; in the case of the Pensils, it is deliberately located at the end, partly because they were intended to be as physically simple as possible, but also because the driver position and relatively high stuffing density are sufficient to reduce the effects of the unwanted harmonic modes without needing any offset to the vent position.
This is a really great piece of work showing a high skill level
Thankyou!
Hope they sound as good as they look.
They do (the music played throughout the build although only low quality royalty free stuff is actually from the finished drivers) but, next build will be. smaller😂
Looks amazing! But shouldn't the port have been waaaay longer?
Apparently not according to the plans. They do sound fantastic in real life for clear relaxed listening (well, with jazz, classical etc)
Very nice indeed. I have thought about buying a nice tidy pair of Tannoy DC1000's, I have the DC3000's in my living room, and using the DC1000's dual concentric driver to form the basis of a TL speaker.
It strikes me that a dual concentric driver with an 8" diameter should go deep and provide good imaging. Any experienced builders thoughts are welcome :).
Thankyou. They are massive tho and the wife doesn't like them because of this! 😂😂
@@DIY-AUDIO My wife said the same about my DC3000's and TDL's. We still keep in touch ;}.
Thank you for this. I am just about to have a go at my first build. The carpentry shouldn’t be too difficult for me, but do you think I would get better performance if I use a superior more expensive driver?
Thanks again for your inspiration.
Possibly but this design is for the Markaudio range which do go up in price and all of them come with different build plans. ndt5.net/c/?si=14570&li=1627332&wi=365189&ws=&dl=en%2F
Good luck though with your build!!
Madisound sells the driver for around $65.00 and also provides two suggested bass reflex cabinets. This design will provide full range sound including bass down to around 30Hz or lower while the vented cabs will get into the 40's.
A lot of airmass and bracing, but not a Transmission-line as far as i can see...
If you google information about Dr Scott Lindgrens pensil design, you will note they are weirdly a type of TL (a MLTL)!!
Probably resonate like crazy
Hi Sr
Can you Provide any 3inch full range Speaker Cabinet Design for Using For as a Satellite Or Desktop.
On my channel, there are a few 3" builds that may help you
@@DIY-AUDIO I am watching almost all videos of 3inch full range speakers but you cannot share the design dimensions the cabinet. My Favourite design is "ruclips.net/video/XJRIyV3jX0s/видео.htmlsi=we2UDg6evZDLhW3F" can you provide the dimensions of this built
@@saqlainpatwekar7320 hi, really sorry i cant as i gave them away when i started the channel in a competition. From memory they were only about 25cm tall by about 12 wide and 17 deep but cant be more specific as the other similar sized white/oak fronted ones i sold.
Hunt out some vintage Xb0x surround sound speakers, the skull shaped ones. they are stacked multi driver affairs.
beautiful exotic veneer. Always envy people with the skillset, tools and space to build spkrs.
I have a pr of TDL RTL3 box which I'm planning to fit a Lii FR into just for casual listening...just curious how a cheap FR would sound with random matching of driver n box...LOL
Helps to have rhe space certainly , self taught skills that always need improving and tools ive collected over the years!
Your drivers need have proper Theils/Small specifications for transmission loading . I suggest you look up. Good Luck
Wouldn't adding a tweeter help with the missing dynamics in the upper range?
Possibly but, whole idea of a FULL range speaker i guess!!
@DIY-AUDIO well It ain't full range now is it
Exactly what kind of glue is it that you use for veneer ?
Hi Robert, its a pva glue (the type for bonding brick, wood etc) cheaper by far than wood glue as can buy it by the 5l!!
Beautiful work. Love these videos, every time I watch I learn a new way tackle some of my diy problems. What made you move away from your usual mitre joint construction for the main part of the cabinet?
Just the size of these. My small second hand table saw woulsnt of been up to the job of mitre joints and ply is better to screw into than mdf (my usual material)
@@DIY-AUDIO fair call, they look great!
I supose the length of the line must be the distance between the driver and the port. But the extra volum must make it behave like a ordinary ported box too. This must be a kind of hybrid at the end.
Guessing so, designed by a Dr Scott Lindgren who does a lot of designs specifically for Full Range Drives for the Markaudio Brand
Like the matrix plywood construction. The audiophiles will tell you that you need to check the electrical parts with a magnet to avoid having any ferrous components in the signal path. Having ferrous parts causes some hysteresis in the response which you hear as distortion. Keeping iron and steel out of components does seem to make a difference...
Wow!! 👍
Is this all from a single sheet of plywood? Thanks.
About a sheet and a half.
Nice! Good looking and well done:)
Thankyou
you build without a crossover?
No, they are full range drivers so you shouldn't need them
I am really confused. Some builder say that is a must and some say is not necessary
What's the reason for such a massive bracing?
It's just the fact that it's 18mm ply and over a metre in height. Google the Pensil Speaker Build (or just visit the Markaudio website for all the build plans) and bracing isn't a necessity but is advised!! 👍
full range means woofer cone is a MOVING tweeter wave guide
Thanks Doug
Wow.. seems a bit unique..
One of many designs that Markaudio provide for those wishing to do a DIY build!! 👍
Just another ported box speaker, sorry. Berry well built and braced though. Bet it sounds great. If you are going to build a transmission line speaker they are more of a calibrated tapered tube design. Loads of videos on RUclips to understand the calculations.
👍
А субтитры из-за санкций недоступны? )))
I really don't know I am afraid. Could be the way I made the video!?
Ok, now put a tweeter in there and im in.
🤔
Very nice build but I bet you were disappointed with the finish on the wood? RUclips is fantastic for learning how to build things but woodworking youtubers never finish any projects well. As a French polisher it is easy to get a flat mirror finish to any woodwork and you are never going to rest a hot cup of tea on these or put them out in the rain so why not use French polish? Follow these steps, 1) sand flat 2) mix thin french polish with pumice powder and work the area with a fad/rubber in a round motion, the very fine sawdust will fill the grain 3) sand with 400 grit 4) apply many coats of french polish with mop brush in long strokes leaving time to dry in-between each coat (on a hot day less than 10 mins) 5) use the fad/rubber with thin french polish to smooth out any brush marks and leave a very shiny finish 6) use 0000 wire wool and very lightly go over the finish to take off the bright shine then use wax polish and buff after. This sounds long winded but using other methods is longer because drying time with french polish is so quick, first timers don't be afraid of trying french polish, it's cheap, long lasting, robust (unless getting wet) easy to repair, and if you mess it up easy to remove and start again. Oh and it looks amazing. I will leave a link to a guy on youtube who has how to videos on french polishing, he is the best, ... www.youtube.com/@theenglishpolisher
Appreciate the tip. Thankyou. Will possibly try on a later build if I find the time.
Nice work but sorry dude it’s nothing close to 1/4 wave. Not even a viable variation. Also that box is too big and won’t offer suspension for the speaker and your reach xmax very easily. My guess would be 10-15 watts
👍
No O2 free, $10K per ft speaker wire?😂 .....nice finish, congrats!
On a budget!! 😂😂
The finish is atrocious... why is it not sanded and cleared ....... ????
Thought I'd leave it so that people like you could comment😂😂. Tbh, I damaged the veneer by not ironing it with a greaseproof paper and it dried out completely and cracked.