It really is. When I printed the pillars I said to my wife "this morbing I didn't have any now I have some, it's like star trek" just how it works impresses me
The fact that you kept the dwarf statue and changed it into a broken big statue amazed me. My brain had consider it as a mistake and trowed it in trash, but not yours. Your honest review as you discover the technology is really nice to see. After years of 3D industrial / educational / professional printing, I still remember my first steps when I was like a kid, waiting the end of the print, happy to create something with my brain and my Ender 3 V2. That's what you gave my with your video, some old happy moments, thank you 🙏 I just discovered D&D, I will look at your content. :) Hello from Canada.
Hello! Glad you liked it. I made this as throw away video but people have seemed to really taken to it. Yes, the ruined statue I was pleased with as it meant, I'd learnt something about what I can and can't print without supports, and if sonething does go wrong can I still make use of it
Your scratch builds continue to bring joy and are so informative but it is helpful to have a supplemental tool to quickly populate a landscape with those things you don't have the time to devote to building (and aren't meant to be a focal point). Not to mention incidental things one never would have thought of (hp counters, etc)
Just set up my first FDM printer this week and really enjoying it so far. Hardest part is abandoning the drybrush/wash method because it highlights the layer lines. Primer, use a filler/primer it will hide them even more but I don’t think yours are egregious at all for the type of terrain. I think your heavy base black served you well. Some people will be negative about 3d print vs. crafting, but I’m a terrain guy and I love the doors 3d printing has opened up for me.
One setting I think may be helpful for you is what's know as Adaptive layers. You can select different layers within the model to print at different layer heights. This is especially useful for angles and curves like on the bottom of the pillars or the tops of heads, shoulders etc. where 0.2mm layer height is quite visible as in the steps. In these specific areas you can reduce the layer height to 0.08mm-0.16mm which will give you a smoother appearance. I don't use Cura anymore but I believe once you slice the model you can use the slider on the right to select the layer area, right click and the option should appear. Or there's an option in the top tool bar. I remember when I first got my 3d printer, I'd sit for hours watching it print in amazement. Just subscribed as I'm now keen to see what other models you print.
Now I have got my head around the basics I am going to explore more advanced options, thanks for this one. I can look into to it. And yes this 3D printing is all very futuristic to me. I am amazed all the time haha
My brother has recently picked up the Bambu A1 mini (which is also a FDM printer)... and I've been having a play around with that every now and again :) And like yourself, I've been pretty impressed with the kind of results that you can get from modern filament printers (if I had space, I'd probably get one of my own) - as they seem really useful for getting stuff to the table. The amount of stuff you managed to get from just the one spool is also rather impressive 👍
Space wise, I was not expecting it to be this large haha. its still in the temporary space I made on my desk. Not sure where else it can actually go though as I have limited room. The main thing I want this for is roof shingles haha. I hate crafting shingles :)
You can tell with the bar furniture footage that a piece was warping up on the bottom right and my guess was that it came loose and then scooted around and messed with the rest of it. Using a skirt around your items or using a glue stick will fix that.
Got the same house on my paint table myself. The stone floor it sits on is actually really well designed and looks great in case you decide to print it later. My printer has been going nearly non-stop since I got it in black Friday sale at end of November. Still hand craft stuff and kit-bash 3-d prints (had a bridge section fail print due to lack of supports so I used that as a ruined section with a bit of foam bricks, etc)
That house was really nice. I actually think I prefer it to the official GW one. I am going to be doing a Rohan house video next looking at my scratch built ones compared to the GW one so may add this one to the video.
that bar furniture fail was bed adhesion, prolly have finger grease on the plate, wash it with warm water and dish soap. It is a controversial thing but elmers glue stick both acts as an adherant and a release agent. i use it all the time. less fails = more filament for more stuff. also if that does not have auto bed level you need to manually level it every few prints. when you printed them 1 at a time they all printed in the middle of the plate. when you did them all they were spread out wider. i would say that is prolly an adhesion issue but checking lv is always a good thing
Hi - first time viewer, you came up in my feed. Little tip. If you set the top support distance bigger, they come off a lot easier. I use my top support offset distance around 27. The supports practically fall away and don't leave any scarring. Hope it helps. You also reduce layer lines ALOT by slowing down your print - the fast movement forwards and backwards makes things wobble, so the next layer misses slightly. You can also buy AutoPrimer that is a primer/filler that will smooth everything out lovely for you... happy hobbying!
Two things to help you... 1 - turn on "ironing" for the top surfaces. It will make those surfaces smoother and show less lines. 2 - With my Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro (and i believe it's the same with the Neptune 4 series), if the file name is too long, it will not show an image on the display screen. Strange yes, but when i shorten the name, the picture shows up. There is a max number of characters but i dont know how many. Give it try and see what happens! 👍
I shall look into ironing, thanks. And the filename thing sort of checks out. With that tree when it displayed the preview, I think I just called the filename "tree" and all the others since then I leave at the default long name with added grammage of filmage it thinks it will use. I shall give the shortened name a try. Thanks for the advice!
@@TheBattlinBarrowGaming You're doing something I've been wanting to do for a while but lacked the willpower to take the plunge! Well done! I enjoyed the video immensely.
I replaced an Ender 3 with a Bambu P1P. The Bambu prints so reliably that it more resembles an inkjet than the Ender in how I use it. For terrain I think speed isn't that big a deal. One thing I like is variable layer height. It keeps flatter areas don't end up with prominent layer lines. Overall I think you are getting into 3D printing at a good time. Things are less fiddly than they used to be. I use the Bambu Slicer because I'm lazy, you might want to look into Orca Slicer which is based on Prusa's slicer. It might have more features and you might like the interface better.
THanks for the advice! Once I am a bit more confident I will be looking into more advanced features and variable layer height sounds like a good place to start. And I may look into other slicers. Cura doesnt "feel" right to how I like software to behave (I am a software engineer by trade )
There is always a chance that something won't stick to the build plate. If you print a bunch of models at once (like with the bar furniture) then if one of those comes loose it can ruin the whole lot.
@@TheBattlinBarrowGaming After a couple of prints make sure to clean the plate with some soapy hot water and give it a good scrub. Residue can cause things to not stick to the plate. Alternatively use some IPA alcohol to clean the plate between each use but I have found the latter to not work as well as as just using dish soap and hot water every 6 plates or so for me personally.
Id say you probably have a .4 nozzle which does a really good job IMHO. If your printer supports it look into getring a .2 nozzle. Print times will go up but layer lines almost disappear just in the printing and can be almost unnoticeable after a primer.
Nice looking stuff Kev. I plan to get myself a 3d printer this year. I want it to print terrain for miniature wargaming and things for dioramas and such. I was looking at resin printers but I think a filament printer is probably what I am going to go with.
Resin is for fine details, like minis. Filament is for larger pieces and flats. Both have their utility, and modern printers are amazingly precious even on a budget
@@TheBattlinBarrowGaming I do believe you are correct with that Kev. I've asked around and that is what people in the know have told me that filament 3d printers are the way to go for terrain pieces.
@@MaleusMaleficarum Having a filament 3d printer is best for my needs I feel. I want to make terrain pieces like small buildings, bridges, fortifications, fences, stonewalls etc for 10mm miniature wargaming and also make some diorama/vignette stuff.
Elegoo has had issues with build plate adhesion so give the plate a wipe with IPA and and a microfibre cloth between prints.if that’s fails try a glue stick.
Be prepared for a pile of shame of your own making. I've soooooo many prints I printed cos they looked cool but don't have time to paint. I've got a orc army half done to name but 1 project
@@TheBattlinBarrowGaming I think your approach is spot on. 3D printers are a great addition to a crafter's toolset, not just a replacement for traditional crafting. It's like having an infinitely large bitz box at your disposal.
It's possible the firmware of your printer may need updating to show the image. I got my Neptune 4 back in mid 2024 and had to update the firmware just recently to fix the image not showing. Please don't use the scraper you printed on that PEI bed, you will likely damage it. It's magnetic and comes off the build plate. After your prints is done just lift the magnetic sheet off and let it cool fully. You should then just be able to give it a slight bend and the prints will just pop off. If and when you feel confident enough to try different slicing software, then I totally recommend Orca slicer. I've been using it for the last few weeks and in my opinion it is by far the best slicing software I've used.
Hi Kev. Really considering getting one just add to my collection of models I've started buying that are also 3d printed for Advanced Heroquest. Whatever the readon why you bought one is irrelevant to anyone else but you. You've said you'd still be crafting models so your channel content won't change just adapted. The models you've printed looked very detailed and may turn a hobby into a little something extra if you decide to start selling models. Keep up the great vids!
3D printers are great. Most require a decent amount of tinkering and definitely you need to stay on top of your preventative maintenance. RUclips abd facebook are full of great educational content. Like all social media, also full of people who may have lost their manners. The Bambu Lab A1 and A1 mini are super user friendly. I have not used the Elegoo but based on the images in the video, I can see you will need to manually level the bed. This was always my least favorite part and it will cause all your prints to have issues if it is not right.
I never understood the thought process of ‘if you are 3D printing you aren’t a real maker or builder’ or ‘you are cheating’. It’s just another power tool in your arsenal. In my opinion it’s not all that different than a hot wire cutter or electric drill, cnc machine.
good video but when your printing small things you need to print at 20 speed yes its slow but look at what your printing because if you go fast on a small print the nozzle does not lift that high so it way catch on the print when it moves to the next spot so you will have to watch for that well have a great day
Just wanted to add to my previous comment... I noticed a couple of the final names you are printing are VERY long. Again, shorten them and see if the image will display. Good luck!!! 😊
I am personally a little sick of 3d prints. They all look the same to me. I have some that i use though. Its is fun minis and such but the terrain is a little boring to me.
A lot of the free and even payed stuff can be samish... but you don't have to use other people's stuff you can sculpt your own custom stuff, then print something you designed from scratch. You can also virtual kit bash taking bits you like from other prints. I don't think it should replace other crafting options. Just another tool for the tool box.
3d printing is such an amazing invention when you really think about it, easy to take it for granted when they are so common place now.
It really is. When I printed the pillars I said to my wife "this morbing I didn't have any now I have some, it's like star trek" just how it works impresses me
The fact that you kept the dwarf statue and changed it into a broken big statue amazed me. My brain had consider it as a mistake and trowed it in trash, but not yours.
Your honest review as you discover the technology is really nice to see.
After years of 3D industrial / educational / professional printing, I still remember my first steps when I was like a kid, waiting the end of the print, happy to create something with my brain and my Ender 3 V2.
That's what you gave my with your video, some old happy moments, thank you 🙏
I just discovered D&D, I will look at your content. :) Hello from Canada.
Hello! Glad you liked it. I made this as throw away video but people have seemed to really taken to it. Yes, the ruined statue I was pleased with as it meant, I'd learnt something about what I can and can't print without supports, and if sonething does go wrong can I still make use of it
Oh my!!!
Haha
Your scratch builds continue to bring joy and are so informative but it is helpful to have a supplemental tool to quickly populate a landscape with those things you don't have the time to devote to building (and aren't meant to be a focal point). Not to mention incidental things one never would have thought of (hp counters, etc)
This is my thinking too. I need a dead body model for my next session, just printed one out!
Just set up my first FDM printer this week and really enjoying it so far. Hardest part is abandoning the drybrush/wash method because it highlights the layer lines. Primer, use a filler/primer it will hide them even more but I don’t think yours are egregious at all for the type of terrain. I think your heavy base black served you well.
Some people will be negative about 3d print vs. crafting, but I’m a terrain guy and I love the doors 3d printing has opened up for me.
Thanks yeah. I will always still scratch build this will just make those builds all the more better
One setting I think may be helpful for you is what's know as Adaptive layers. You can select different layers within the model to print at different layer heights. This is especially useful for angles and curves like on the bottom of the pillars or the tops of heads, shoulders etc. where 0.2mm layer height is quite visible as in the steps. In these specific areas you can reduce the layer height to 0.08mm-0.16mm which will give you a smoother appearance. I don't use Cura anymore but I believe once you slice the model you can use the slider on the right to select the layer area, right click and the option should appear. Or there's an option in the top tool bar.
I remember when I first got my 3d printer, I'd sit for hours watching it print in amazement.
Just subscribed as I'm now keen to see what other models you print.
Now I have got my head around the basics I am going to explore more advanced options, thanks for this one. I can look into to it. And yes this 3D printing is all very futuristic to me. I am amazed all the time haha
My brother has recently picked up the Bambu A1 mini (which is also a FDM printer)... and I've been having a play around with that every now and again :)
And like yourself, I've been pretty impressed with the kind of results that you can get from modern filament printers (if I had space, I'd probably get one of my own) - as they seem really useful for getting stuff to the table.
The amount of stuff you managed to get from just the one spool is also rather impressive 👍
Space wise, I was not expecting it to be this large haha. its still in the temporary space I made on my desk. Not sure where else it can actually go though as I have limited room. The main thing I want this for is roof shingles haha. I hate crafting shingles :)
You can tell with the bar furniture footage that a piece was warping up on the bottom right and my guess was that it came loose and then scooted around and messed with the rest of it. Using a skirt around your items or using a glue stick will fix that.
Thanks. I have started to use a brim skirt on pieces I think wont hold well. Seems to be working so far!
Got the same house on my paint table myself. The stone floor it sits on is actually really well designed and looks great in case you decide to print it later. My printer has been going nearly non-stop since I got it in black Friday sale at end of November. Still hand craft stuff and kit-bash 3-d prints (had a bridge section fail print due to lack of supports so I used that as a ruined section with a bit of foam bricks, etc)
That house was really nice. I actually think I prefer it to the official GW one. I am going to be doing a Rohan house video next looking at my scratch built ones compared to the GW one so may add this one to the video.
that bar furniture fail was bed adhesion, prolly have finger grease on the plate, wash it with warm water and dish soap. It is a controversial thing but elmers glue stick both acts as an adherant and a release agent. i use it all the time. less fails = more filament for more stuff. also if that does not have auto bed level you need to manually level it every few prints. when you printed them 1 at a time they all printed in the middle of the plate. when you did them all they were spread out wider. i would say that is prolly an adhesion issue but checking lv is always a good thing
It came with a glue stick which I, like an idiot, ignored. I have used it and washed the plate. THanks for your help!
Hi - first time viewer, you came up in my feed. Little tip. If you set the top support distance bigger, they come off a lot easier. I use my top support offset distance around 27. The supports practically fall away and don't leave any scarring. Hope it helps. You also reduce layer lines ALOT by slowing down your print - the fast movement forwards and backwards makes things wobble, so the next layer misses slightly. You can also buy AutoPrimer that is a primer/filler that will smooth everything out lovely for you... happy hobbying!
Thank you for the advice as I am totally green to all this. I shall give this a try next print. Thank you
Two things to help you... 1 - turn on "ironing" for the top surfaces. It will make those surfaces smoother and show less lines. 2 - With my Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro (and i believe it's the same with the Neptune 4 series), if the file name is too long, it will not show an image on the display screen. Strange yes, but when i shorten the name, the picture shows up. There is a max number of characters but i dont know how many. Give it try and see what happens! 👍
I shall look into ironing, thanks. And the filename thing sort of checks out. With that tree when it displayed the preview, I think I just called the filename "tree" and all the others since then I leave at the default long name with added grammage of filmage it thinks it will use. I shall give the shortened name a try. Thanks for the advice!
That was a classic Monty Python moment when you said you weren't going to use it to print a house but were going to print a house...classic!😁🤣😂
Haha yeah sorry about that. It will be the only one on the channel. I just want to test the printer
@@TheBattlinBarrowGaming You're doing something I've been wanting to do for a while but lacked the willpower to take the plunge! Well done! I enjoyed the video immensely.
I replaced an Ender 3 with a Bambu P1P. The Bambu prints so reliably that it more resembles an inkjet than the Ender in how I use it. For terrain I think speed isn't that big a deal.
One thing I like is variable layer height. It keeps flatter areas don't end up with prominent layer lines. Overall I think you are getting into 3D printing at a good time. Things are less fiddly than they used to be.
I use the Bambu Slicer because I'm lazy, you might want to look into Orca Slicer which is based on Prusa's slicer. It might have more features and you might like the interface better.
THanks for the advice! Once I am a bit more confident I will be looking into more advanced features and variable layer height sounds like a good place to start. And I may look into other slicers. Cura doesnt "feel" right to how I like software to behave (I am a software engineer by trade )
There is always a chance that something won't stick to the build plate. If you print a bunch of models at once (like with the bar furniture) then if one of those comes loose it can ruin the whole lot.
Yes its happened again on something since. One part came off and knocked into all the others.
@@TheBattlinBarrowGaming After a couple of prints make sure to clean the plate with some soapy hot water and give it a good scrub. Residue can cause things to not stick to the plate. Alternatively use some IPA alcohol to clean the plate between each use but I have found the latter to not work as well as as just using dish soap and hot water every 6 plates or so for me personally.
I just bought one today. I feel it can helt me out with some cosplay things i want to do and not having to rely on someone else to do em for me.
SOunds like a good use for it if you are doing cosplay!
Totally agree man. Use it for the nick nacks, funny timing just working on a scratch built vs 3d print comparison now.
Its going to be great for things like that. I shall look forward to that video of yours!
Id say you probably have a .4 nozzle which does a really good job IMHO. If your printer supports it look into getring a .2 nozzle. Print times will go up but layer lines almost disappear just in the printing and can be almost unnoticeable after a primer.
I belive that is the noozle. Once I am more confident I shall investigate and look into getting a smaller one.
Nice looking stuff Kev. I plan to get myself a 3d printer this year. I want it to print terrain for miniature wargaming and things for dioramas and such. I was looking at resin printers but I think a filament printer is probably what I am going to go with.
Resin is for fine details, like minis. Filament is for larger pieces and flats. Both have their utility, and modern printers are amazingly precious even on a budget
I think for terrain, from what I read, filament is the way to go for the price. I am still shocked by how much detail I can get out of this one.
@@TheBattlinBarrowGaming I do believe you are correct with that Kev. I've asked around and that is what people in the know have told me that filament 3d printers are the way to go for terrain pieces.
@@MaleusMaleficarum Having a filament 3d printer is best for my needs I feel. I want to make terrain pieces like small buildings, bridges, fortifications, fences, stonewalls etc for 10mm miniature wargaming and also make some diorama/vignette stuff.
Elegoo has had issues with build plate adhesion so give the plate a wipe with IPA and and a microfibre cloth between prints.if that’s fails try a glue stick.
Thanks. It came with a glue stick that I, like an idiot, ignored and forgot. I have started using it now and cleaning afterwards.
One of Us! One of Us! Gooble-gobble! We accept you!
Thank you! :D
Be prepared for a pile of shame of your own making. I've soooooo many prints I printed cos they looked cool but don't have time to paint. I've got a orc army half done to name but 1 project
@@TheBattlinBarrowGaming I think your approach is spot on. 3D printers are a great addition to a crafter's toolset, not just a replacement for traditional crafting. It's like having an infinitely large bitz box at your disposal.
There's a custom support plugin somewhere that does supports the way you assumed
Welcome the printing world,it’s only a matter of time before you have another one….and another ….and…..I may have 6 printers🙈🙈
Wow! Although I can see that it would be adictive! GEt a large project printed off quicker with multiple printers.
It's possible the firmware of your printer may need updating to show the image. I got my Neptune 4 back in mid 2024 and had to update the firmware just recently to fix the image not showing. Please don't use the scraper you printed on that PEI bed, you will likely damage it. It's magnetic and comes off the build plate. After your prints is done just lift the magnetic sheet off and let it cool fully. You should then just be able to give it a slight bend and the prints will just pop off. If and when you feel confident enough to try different slicing software, then I totally recommend Orca slicer. I've been using it for the last few weeks and in my opinion it is by far the best slicing software I've used.
Thanks I shall try that out. It's a small thing but it is nice to see the preview
Hi Kev. Really considering getting one just add to my collection of models I've started buying that are also 3d printed for Advanced Heroquest. Whatever the readon why you bought one is irrelevant to anyone else but you. You've said you'd still be crafting models so your channel content won't change just adapted. The models you've printed looked very detailed and may turn a hobby into a little something extra if you decide to start selling models. Keep up the great vids!
THank you for the kind words!
I was your hundredth like. Very nice work.
Thank you!
Its a great investment, you'll have a lot of fun and flexibility with it
I am enjoying using it so far
I don't have one of my own but we have fdm and resin printers at work and I've been having minis and terrain printed for a little while now
Nice! So you dont need to take up space at home with one.
Take a look at Orca Slicer. Support painting is much easier.
THank you, I shall take a look now im a bit more confident with the printer
@@TheBattlinBarrowGaming You're welcome. Please excuse my terrible English in that post. Egad I'm surprised you even understood it.
Where did you get the doors for the Conquest Creation house from?
The doors are from www.thingiverse.com/thing:3996765
Thank you! 😊@@TheBattlinBarrowGaming
3D printers are great. Most require a decent amount of tinkering and definitely you need to stay on top of your preventative maintenance. RUclips abd facebook are full of great educational content. Like all social media, also full of people who may have lost their manners. The Bambu Lab A1 and A1 mini are super user friendly. I have not used the Elegoo but based on the images in the video, I can see you will need to manually level the bed. This was always my least favorite part and it will cause all your prints to have issues if it is not right.
Yes I think I'm going to have to try to "get good" and the tinkering and maintenance side of things
how much did you scale the pillars down by? 50%?
I did it until I got the dimensions I wanted which in the end was 67%
@@TheBattlinBarrowGaming awesome thank you so much!
I never understood the thought process of ‘if you are 3D printing you aren’t a real maker or builder’ or ‘you are cheating’.
It’s just another power tool in your arsenal.
In my opinion it’s not all that different than a hot wire cutter or electric drill, cnc machine.
I agree 100%!
good video but when your printing small things you need to print at 20 speed yes its slow but look at what your printing because if you go fast on a small print the nozzle does not lift that high so it way catch on the print when it moves to the next spot so you will have to watch for that well have a great day
Thanks for the advice, I shall give it a whirl next print. I've just started experimenting with layer line heights and things
Goblins....lots of goblins
Haha
You don't have an airbrush?
I don't! I may look into getting one later on in the year.
WooHoo! o/
:D
Just wanted to add to my previous comment... I noticed a couple of the final names you are printing are VERY long. Again, shorten them and see if the image will display. Good luck!!! 😊
File names, not final names...
I am personally a little sick of 3d prints. They all look the same to me. I have some that i use though. Its is fun minis and such but the terrain is a little boring to me.
A lot of the free and even payed stuff can be samish... but you don't have to use other people's stuff you can sculpt your own custom stuff, then print something you designed from scratch. You can also virtual kit bash taking bits you like from other prints. I don't think it should replace other crafting options. Just another tool for the tool box.