Nice video , i use concentrated parts cleaner with boiling water to clean the clean then rinse it in brake cleaner to make sure its perfectly clean before waxing works a treat , the brake cleaner evaporates pretty quick so no need to dry before waxing 👌
A really good summary, thanks. And two chains is the way to go, IMHO. Also using quick link 5x. Riding about 300km between hot melt re-waxes. So that is 600km riding really as wait to do both together.
One issue I've run into is sometimes there will be a small gap in the end links which makes it almost impossible to fit the quick link because the wax hardens into the gap. Now I use a clothes pin to squeeze each end link after removing from wax so that a gap doesn't form.
I am trying this got everything for it but I will not believe it works till I prove it to myself here in sunny (Rainy) Devon UK. Why do you think a Glass jar will break unless you do some mad shaking and I would not leave the chain to air dry very long or it will stand a chance of rusting inside put it in an old ice cream container or something then air dry it in a few minutes under a bathroom fan heater or hair dryer. Nice video
I have had 2 glass ones break on me before. But admittedly, that’s was after doing like 4-5 chains. Should be just fine for the first few. For the drying, that will work just fine. I actually use a hair dryer to speed up the process which I showed in the original version of this video. Which cleaning method have you gone for?
I've been waxing for almost a year now, but only recently I've started using the multiple chain method. My understanding is that it can potentially extend further the lifespan of both chainring and the cassette as alternating waxed chains slows down the wear even further. Since my first chain has some thousand kilometers on it already, I'll use the new one until it has run the same distance. Hoping this works 😅
I would like to know more as to where you found this information because if it does work well all the better for it! Theoretically if waxing both chains should be very close to 0 wear so I don’t think it would make much difference. My understanding is that as the chain wears, the distance between links increases as there is more play between each link. The chain then no longer sits perfectly on teeth of the cassette and chainring and wears it this way.
Actually you should leave the chain in the wax, turn off the heat, wait until the top of the wax forms a skin, and then remove the chain. This will help retain wax deep inside the links and not flow out as a very hot liquid. With this method there is little dripping as the wax solidifies in a matter of seconds.
I do have my reasoning for not using this method: I won’t deny that it can be cleaner but I just let the chains hang over the pot with my set up so it does fall back in. I take everything I can from ZFC who has done more chains than anyone else. From his testing and suggestions it will pack more wax in the chain but it will just be pushed out in the first 10km anyway. Even with the straight out method I find a lot of wax is still pushed out which you can see in the video here. Even the hollow pins in the Dura ace chains are still fully packed when taking the chain straight out. For me it hasn’t seemed to make any difference for chain longevity as the first chain I ever waxed is now just over 12000km and is still more than ok with the chain checker tool. I think it’s a lot more time and effort than needed to wait for the perfect moment rather than removing when you are ready. Of course it doesn’t mean that either way is the right way. You do what feels right for you.
Can you do a video on how to deep clean a drive train that has already been used? I want to make the switch to a waxed chain, but my cassette and sprockets are very dirty... Thanks!
I will have to find someone who doesn’t have a waxed chain yet to do it but let me run through it for you. Firstly clean the chain and cassette as much as possible. Guide is on the drivechain section on this video: ruclips.net/video/eF6d-mP1rHE/видео.htmlsi=Hwuald6cnlxSHOG- Step 2 : Do the same in this video with the chain strippers but you will need to repeat the chain strippers until the fluid is fully clear. This may become more expensive and might be worth doing the older method as the solvents are cheaper in this video: ruclips.net/video/5t_fDPkqN-8/видео.htmlsi=skCM09ysQPm44VoG It will take from 3- 5 shake baths in the cleaner to get it fully clean. If you have an ultrasonic cleaner, now is the time to put it in as you will still notice some dirt that comes out. Put it in with some de greaser for 15 mins. You will then want to do another 2 shake baths in the alcohol to remove any surface film. Then you can wax as normal. This is why I like to just use a new chain, there is just so much more dirt packed into the chain than we realise with a wet lube. When waxed though, hardly anything gets into the chain, and when re waxed gets melted pulled out with the wax, fully resetting the chain. I hope that helps a bit
@@cyclingunboxedthanks a lot! I think I'll just buy a new chain and cassette since they're very very dirty now. How about the quick links? Do they need waxing? Can you use them multiple times?
Quick links don’t need to be waxed as there is already enough wax in the chain. Quick links 5-10 times. Just depends on if the click on the quick link starts to get really soft
Which group set do you have out of curiosity? I find steel wool is quite good for removing it but it’s rather aggressive. Possibly a stiff brush and enough elbow grease would do. Unfortunately it is it’s one weakness. You must! Dry the surface of your chain + cassette after a wet ride. I find a microfibre cloth is enough to do the trick.
I’m heading to Majorca for a weeks riding in April. Will cover around 500 miles. Would you recommend 2 waxed chains or would 1 do with a drip wax to top up?
Personally I like the 2 chains and then drip if needed but you can’t go wrong with either method. It just depends which you like the most I find. I do have another video for waxing when travelling that might help you decide: ruclips.net/video/Q3cEB_KGXOI/видео.htmlsi=XNJDsrkEG_rI1chk
You could but you may find you don’t get the right hardness of wax. You could get lucky with it though. Generally ZFC only recommends that you use silca super secret, ceramic speed ufo and tru tension all weather as a drip on top wax as they are more compatible. They use a paraffin based wax in those bottles
The drip treatment will last between 300-400km Personally I re wax at 250km because it’s so quick and easy (this also ensures zero wear on the chain). From there you can either immersive wax again or use a drip wax. I would recommend an immersive wax after 3-5 drip waxes to reset the chain again. No need to strip the chain ever again. Once you have done it at the start , that’s all it needs. Your chain is now clean and all you are doing from there on is replacing the wax I hope that helps
I just use the stock Shimano or sram quick links. I generally use the between 5-10 times depending on how soft they are starting to feel when putting the on and off
I use the Connex Wipperman quicklinks. Can be expensive but are hand removable and I'm not aware of a reuse limit. Merlin Cycles in the UK is usually one of the cheapest places to get them and you can check the reviews ! Be aware they have to be fitted ' frown down' when on the bottom chain span. You will work out what I mean when you look at the product manual. If you fit them the wrong way they will make a clicking noise once per chain rotation. If they will work with your chains I do not know but they do on my cheap KMC ones.
@@cyclingunboxed Looks like you've got a sram flat top chain in your canyon gravel bike cleaning vid ruclips.net/video/eF6d-mP1rHE/видео.html ? As far as I know this restricts you to the flat top sram powerlock chain connectors.
Generally, yes because I will re wax the chain when I clean. You don’t have to though, just make sure you dry it after as the wax doesn’t protect from rust like a wet lubricant will.
I disagree with the water part,that could introduce flash corrosion. I personally do. White spirit, shake in tub 2,3 mins Drain Then do the same but with 100 % alcohol Then dry with paper towl and wax. Done.
This was the method I used in my previous video. But I wanted to show some of the new ways to do it. Seems to be all good from ZFC where I get all my information from and tests this with 100s of chains. My assumption would be with a brand new chain the protection would be more than enough to do this a single time but willing to be shown any evidence against this though.
If you are talking about removing the factory chain grease and flushing out the cleaning agent with water as shown at 2:22 then for the short time the chain is exposed to water , with the protective Nickel plating on new chains , no rust will form. If you are talking about cleaning with boiling water as shown at 6:02 and are suggesting using white spirit to clean the waxed chain .... Paraffin wax is almost insoluble in white spirit at 20°C . You can leave a shredded sample of say 1 gram in 20ml of solvent and 6 hours later only about half will have dissolved. At temperatures above the melting point of the wax ( about 60°C ) it works well but then your creating a fume hazard. Even at 100°C it will leave a thin emulsion behind that will take days to dry out on the inside of the chain. The temperature in the wax pot will NOT boil the white spirit off as it boils around 180°C. You can flush it out with enough alcohol. It's fair to say I don't recommend the above. I just try these things for fun. I've never created any flash corrosion from boiling water flush cleaning in 4 years of waxing. You want to do more than one since the first has to heat the chain metal ( I think Adam at ZFC says 3 ). As long as you get all the water out of the chain with a few minutes heating with a hair dryer nothing bad will happen. You still want to re-wax the same day. One thing to note is that boiling water will not deep clean your chain. It just removes most of the contamination. If you deep clean with something like Ceramic speed UFO drivetrain cleaner which is designed to remove wax you will remove more. I think it can be used at up to 60°C . The Silca chain stripper is not formulated to dissolve wax and is only designed to remove factory chain grease.
Most branded waxes cost about this much. You can buy some high quality paraffin wax which should work well. It all depends what comes through the post though. Zfc has just done some testing and managed to find a good one that worked. It does test really well but still not up to the standard of the silca. It’s a lot for initial investment but I have found that for both me and my partner using it, it has lasted just over a year. Which I think is fairly good cavalier for money.
You can make your own or buy a DIY wax but I would NOT advise it. The issue with DIY is potential poor quality wax. Pick a product from the ZFC tested list and you get something with a known performance and consistency ( major brands have a reputation to keep ). In the long run, the extra cost is offset by lower wear cost, especially for more expensive chains. I started with a DIY blend. Some food grade waxes are too hard and flakey. Candle waxes can contain fragrance oil which will reduce treatment life. In terms of additives, with PTFE powder in particular, it can contain harmful PFOA. You can get Tungsten Disulphide as a motor oil additive but does it contain the correct particle sizes and lack of impurities ?
Absolutely! You have basically just done the perfect length break in period for a chain. If you want the fastest chain possible, most time trialists will ride the chain for 1-200km to break it in a little. This gets its running at its fastest. The wax will now hold it at a 100-200km chain for a very long time so it should be very fast.
Since for some reason I can't reply to your comment, I'll post here separately. You may check out ZFC's episode 7 and start from the 20 : 47 mark, this is where he mentions the added benefit of a two-chain system. I hope I understood him correctly in that context.
Yes! I did miss this out in the video but I do run a training and race chain for my TT bike and for even less waxing I run a 3 chain on my road bike. I might need to put this in the description.
No need for wax. It will just flake off on its own. You want it to flake off so some goes into your cassette and keeps it a bit quieter. + it helps keep the weather off the steel of your chain on the outside. It won’t bring contamination into the chain like a wet lubricant
The general life range is around the 10,000km mark but currently at 12,000km with the first chain I ever waxed. Still not near the wear mark with the chain checker (Shimano go/ no go chain checker) I hope that clarifies a bit
@@cyclingunboxed - many thanks, yes, that does clarify it, and it's an impressive range for a chain out in the open. Obviously it would vary depending on the quality of chain used, but that mileage would be impressive even for really top quality chains! For reference, a cycling friend built his own frame with fully sealed internally routed chain in oil, and he got over 25,000 km out of a single chain. As you are saying, the key point obviously is keeping dirt out.
This is where most people run multiple chains 2-3 with wax so really you only need to clean every 4-6 rides. And that of course varies with your ride length. One thing zfc has tonnes of data on is that with normal chain lube cleaning, unless you are taking the chain off and running it through multiple shake baths of degreaser. It’s never properly clean. Wax just does this resetting process x10 faster
Thanks for the explanation. I thought waxing the chain would be a great way to keep things clean when I do long (300+ mile) rides, but it seems the wax would not last to the end of my longer rides. I usually get about 300 miles of riding before having to reapply dumond tech@@cyclingunboxed
Some super rides there! You may find if you are in good conditions the wax may still last: zerofrictioncycling.com.au/lubetesting/ I think if it’s not perfect though then maybe not.
Go to a hardware store and buy a gallon of acetone. This really, really strips your chain, and the cost is low. Warning- acetone evaporates quickly! So, you always want to make sure you use a lid. Then, rinse under water, dry the chain, and wax as normal. It's also really good to use an ultrasonic cleaner.
Acetone boils at 56°C so you don't need to rinse in water before waxing. Just put the chain on the washing line for a few minutes and then place straight in the wax pot. Since the chain wax melts around 60°C , any small amount of remaining Acetone will boil off. Because of its volatility it is NOT recommended to use Acetone in an ultrasonic cleaner, especially if the solvent is open to the air because of the high fire risk / very low flash point of minus 20°C ! Do a search for ... bjultrasonic can you use acetone in an ultrasonic cleaner. On the plus side , although in confined spaces you will feel the intoxicating effects , Acetone is expelled from your body quite quickly ( it is the simplest of the Ketone class of chemicals ) . I worked with the stuff for years so I know !
@@rg807 Probably not everyone will do that and will have an interesting result ! This is likely why the zerofrictioncycling YT channel recommends mineral turpentine. In my opinion , Acetone would be better to remove the last of the Turps than the Methylated spirits he uses but in Austrailia Acetone is expensive stuff. Acetone is highly hygroscopic ( really likes to pull water out of things ) so you could use it to speed up water removal after boiling flush cleans. If you have 'hard water' with lots of dissolved minerals , that can interfere with the wax / chain metal bond. Rain water is an alternative if you can keep the bird droppings out of it !
You have options though. You can drop wax over the top 3 times and then hot melt again. Or I run 3 chains so you can just swap out, re wax all the chains at once. They are both 3 week re wax options for you. And honestly, it doesn’t take much time. Just turn the pot on and throw your chain in. Walk away or clean your bike until it’s melted. Take it out and hang to cool Pop it back on. As a whole it’s about 2-3 mins of actual doing stuff. You can just do other bits in between
Nice one! I am using Squirt for now, one day I'll try this. I'll use the stripping the factory grease part though!
Nice video , i use concentrated parts cleaner with boiling water to clean the clean then rinse it in brake cleaner to make sure its perfectly clean before waxing works a treat , the brake cleaner evaporates pretty quick so no need to dry before waxing 👌
A really good summary, thanks. And two chains is the way to go, IMHO. Also using quick link 5x. Riding about 300km between hot melt re-waxes. So that is 600km riding really as wait to do both together.
It’s way easier to go for the multi chain method isn’t it.
One issue I've run into is sometimes there will be a small gap in the end links which makes it almost impossible to fit the quick link because the wax hardens into the gap. Now I use a clothes pin to squeeze each end link after removing from wax so that a gap doesn't form.
I am trying this got everything for it but I will not believe it works till I prove it to myself here in sunny (Rainy) Devon UK. Why do you think a Glass jar will break unless you do some mad shaking and I would not leave the chain to air dry very long or it will stand a chance of rusting inside put it in an old ice cream container or something then air dry it in a few minutes under a bathroom fan heater or hair dryer. Nice video
I have had 2 glass ones break on me before. But admittedly, that’s was after doing like 4-5 chains.
Should be just fine for the first few.
For the drying, that will work just fine. I actually use a hair dryer to speed up the process which I showed in the original version of this video.
Which cleaning method have you gone for?
I've been waxing for almost a year now, but only recently I've started using the multiple chain method. My understanding is that it can potentially extend further the lifespan of both chainring and the cassette as alternating waxed chains slows down the wear even further. Since my first chain has some thousand kilometers on it already, I'll use the new one until it has run the same distance. Hoping this works 😅
I would like to know more as to where you found this information because if it does work well all the better for it!
Theoretically if waxing both chains should be very close to 0 wear so I don’t think it would make much difference.
My understanding is that as the chain wears, the distance between links increases as there is more play between each link. The chain then no longer sits perfectly on teeth of the cassette and chainring and wears it this way.
Actually you should leave the chain in the wax, turn off the heat, wait until the top of the wax forms a skin, and then remove the chain. This will help retain wax deep inside the links and not flow out as a very hot liquid. With this method there is little dripping as the wax solidifies in a matter of seconds.
I do have my reasoning for not using this method:
I won’t deny that it can be cleaner but I just let the chains hang over the pot with my set up so it does fall back in.
I take everything I can from ZFC who has done more chains than anyone else. From his testing and suggestions it will pack more wax in the chain but it will just be pushed out in the first 10km anyway. Even with the straight out method I find a lot of wax is still pushed out which you can see in the video here. Even the hollow pins in the Dura ace chains are still fully packed when taking the chain straight out.
For me it hasn’t seemed to make any difference for chain longevity as the first chain I ever waxed is now just over 12000km and is still more than ok with the chain checker tool.
I think it’s a lot more time and effort than needed to wait for the perfect moment rather than removing when you are ready.
Of course it doesn’t mean that either way is the right way. You do what feels right for you.
This ZFC vid tells you why wax skinning isn't needed ruclips.net/video/ZEfi2HOfqpM/видео.html .
I also prefer to take out the chain while the wax is hot and not somewhat cooled. It will be fully covered in wax anyways.
Can you do a video on how to deep clean a drive train that has already been used? I want to make the switch to a waxed chain, but my cassette and sprockets are very dirty... Thanks!
I will have to find someone who doesn’t have a waxed chain yet to do it but let me run through it for you.
Firstly clean the chain and cassette as much as possible. Guide is on the drivechain section on this video:
ruclips.net/video/eF6d-mP1rHE/видео.htmlsi=Hwuald6cnlxSHOG-
Step 2 :
Do the same in this video with the chain strippers but you will need to repeat the chain strippers until the fluid is fully clear. This may become more expensive and might be worth doing the older method as the solvents are cheaper in this video:
ruclips.net/video/5t_fDPkqN-8/видео.htmlsi=skCM09ysQPm44VoG
It will take from 3- 5 shake baths in the cleaner to get it fully clean.
If you have an ultrasonic cleaner, now is the time to put it in as you will still notice some dirt that comes out. Put it in with some de greaser for 15 mins. You will then want to do another 2 shake baths in the alcohol to remove any surface film.
Then you can wax as normal.
This is why I like to just use a new chain, there is just so much more dirt packed into the chain than we realise with a wet lube.
When waxed though, hardly anything gets into the chain, and when re waxed gets melted pulled out with the wax, fully resetting the chain.
I hope that helps a bit
@@cyclingunboxedthanks a lot! I think I'll just buy a new chain and cassette since they're very very dirty now. How about the quick links? Do they need waxing? Can you use them multiple times?
Quick links don’t need to be waxed as there is already enough wax in the chain.
Quick links 5-10 times. Just depends on if the click on the quick link starts to get really soft
My two waxed chains and the cassette have developed some surface rust after the last ride in the rain. Do you have any tips on how to remove the rust?
Which group set do you have out of curiosity?
I find steel wool is quite good for removing it but it’s rather aggressive.
Possibly a stiff brush and enough elbow grease would do.
Unfortunately it is it’s one weakness. You must! Dry the surface of your chain + cassette after a wet ride.
I find a microfibre cloth is enough to do the trick.
@@cyclingunboxed ok, will try that. I have an ultegra 12 speed groupset. First time this happened after a year of chain waxing.
I’m heading to Majorca for a weeks riding in April. Will cover around 500 miles.
Would you recommend 2 waxed chains or would 1 do with a drip wax to top up?
Personally I like the 2 chains and then drip if needed but you can’t go wrong with either method. It just depends which you like the most I find.
I do have another video for waxing when travelling that might help you decide:
ruclips.net/video/Q3cEB_KGXOI/видео.htmlsi=XNJDsrkEG_rI1chk
Could you use candle wax and add some dry lube like finish line in the wax?
You could but you may find you don’t get the right hardness of wax. You could get lucky with it though.
Generally ZFC only recommends that you use silca super secret, ceramic speed ufo and tru tension all weather as a drip on top wax as they are more compatible. They use a paraffin based wax in those bottles
@@cyclingunboxed Do you add anything to the wax?
sorry, I didn't understand how many km the wax immersion treatment lasts? once I have finished this treatment can I put the wax directly on the chain?
The drip treatment will last between 300-400km
Personally I re wax at 250km because it’s so quick and easy (this also ensures zero wear on the chain).
From there you can either immersive wax again or use a drip wax.
I would recommend an immersive wax after 3-5 drip waxes to reset the chain again.
No need to strip the chain ever again. Once you have done it at the start , that’s all it needs. Your chain is now clean and all you are doing from there on is replacing the wax
I hope that helps
Which quicklinks do you use and how often can you open and close them, without replacements
I just use the stock Shimano or sram quick links. I generally use the between 5-10 times depending on how soft they are starting to feel when putting the on and off
I use the Connex Wipperman quicklinks. Can be expensive but are hand removable and I'm not aware of a reuse limit. Merlin Cycles in the UK is usually one of the cheapest places to get them and you can check the reviews !
Be aware they have to be fitted ' frown down' when on the bottom chain span. You will work out what I mean when you look at the product manual. If you fit them the wrong way they will make a clicking noise once per chain rotation. If they will work with your chains I do not know but they do on my cheap KMC ones.
@@cyclingunboxed Looks like you've got a sram flat top chain in your canyon gravel bike cleaning vid ruclips.net/video/eF6d-mP1rHE/видео.html ? As far as I know this restricts you to the flat top sram powerlock chain connectors.
Do you take your chain of when you're cleaning your bike or can i leave the chain on when i make a bike wash?
Generally, yes because I will re wax the chain when I clean. You don’t have to though, just make sure you dry it after as the wax doesn’t protect from rust like a wet lubricant will.
I disagree with the water part,that could introduce flash corrosion.
I personally do.
White spirit, shake in tub 2,3 mins
Drain
Then do the same but with 100 % alcohol
Then dry with paper towl and wax.
Done.
This was the method I used in my previous video. But I wanted to show some of the new ways to do it.
Seems to be all good from ZFC where I get all my information from and tests this with 100s of chains.
My assumption would be with a brand new chain the protection would be more than enough to do this a single time but willing to be shown any evidence against this though.
If you are talking about removing the factory chain grease and flushing out the cleaning agent with water as shown at 2:22 then for the short time the chain is exposed to water , with the protective Nickel plating on new chains , no rust will form.
If you are talking about cleaning with boiling water as shown at 6:02 and are suggesting using white spirit to clean the waxed chain ....
Paraffin wax is almost insoluble in white spirit at 20°C . You can leave a shredded sample of say 1 gram in 20ml of solvent and 6 hours later only about half will have dissolved. At temperatures above the melting point of the wax ( about 60°C ) it works well but then your creating a fume hazard. Even at 100°C it will leave a thin emulsion behind that will take days to dry out on the inside of the chain. The temperature in the wax pot will NOT boil the white spirit off as it boils around 180°C. You can flush it out with enough alcohol. It's fair to say I don't recommend the above. I just try these things for fun.
I've never created any flash corrosion from boiling water flush cleaning in 4 years of waxing. You want to do more than one since the first has to heat the chain metal ( I think Adam at ZFC says 3 ). As long as you get all the water out of the chain with a few minutes heating with a hair dryer nothing bad will happen. You still want to re-wax the same day.
One thing to note is that boiling water will not deep clean your chain. It just removes most of the contamination. If you deep clean with something like Ceramic speed UFO drivetrain cleaner which is designed to remove wax you will remove more. I think it can be used at up to 60°C . The Silca chain stripper is not formulated to dissolve wax and is only designed to remove factory chain grease.
any other cheaper alternatives to the silca bag of wax?
Most branded waxes cost about this much. You can buy some high quality paraffin wax which should work well. It all depends what comes through the post though. Zfc has just done some testing and managed to find a good one that worked. It does test really well but still not up to the standard of the silca.
It’s a lot for initial investment but I have found that for both me and my partner using it, it has lasted just over a year. Which I think is fairly good cavalier for money.
You can make your own or buy a DIY wax but I would NOT advise it. The issue with DIY is potential poor quality wax. Pick a product from the ZFC tested list and you get something with a known performance and consistency ( major brands have a reputation to keep ). In the long run, the extra cost is offset by lower wear cost, especially for more expensive chains.
I started with a DIY blend. Some food grade waxes are too hard and flakey. Candle waxes can contain fragrance oil which will reduce treatment life. In terms of additives, with PTFE powder in particular, it can contain harmful PFOA. You can get Tungsten Disulphide as a motor oil additive but does it contain the correct particle sizes and lack of impurities ?
I've ridden +- 200km with my new chain. Is it still possible to use this chain for hot waxing or should I buy a brand-new one?
Absolutely!
You have basically just done the perfect length break in period for a chain.
If you want the fastest chain possible, most time trialists will ride the chain for 1-200km to break it in a little. This gets its running at its fastest.
The wax will now hold it at a 100-200km chain for a very long time so it should be very fast.
Since for some reason I can't reply to your comment, I'll post here separately. You may check out ZFC's episode 7 and start from the 20 : 47 mark, this is where he mentions the added benefit of a two-chain system. I hope I understood him correctly in that context.
Yes! I did miss this out in the video but I do run a training and race chain for my TT bike and for even less waxing I run a 3 chain on my road bike. I might need to put this in the description.
Should you wipe the excess wax off the sides of the chain?
No need for wax. It will just flake off on its own.
You want it to flake off so some goes into your cassette and keeps it a bit quieter.
+ it helps keep the weather off the steel of your chain on the outside.
It won’t bring contamination into the chain like a wet lubricant
@@cyclingunboxed thanks.
How long does "my chain lasts forever" mean in km, please?
The general life range is around the 10,000km mark but currently at 12,000km with the first chain I ever waxed. Still not near the wear mark with the chain checker (Shimano go/ no go chain checker)
I hope that clarifies a bit
@@cyclingunboxed - many thanks, yes, that does clarify it, and it's an impressive range for a chain out in the open. Obviously it would vary depending on the quality of chain used, but that mileage would be impressive even for really top quality chains!
For reference, a cycling friend built his own frame with fully sealed internally routed chain in oil, and he got over 25,000 km out of a single chain. As you are saying, the key point obviously is keeping dirt out.
Wait you have to re wax every two rides? If I cleaned and relubed the normal way every two rides my chain would be just as clean lol
This is where most people run multiple chains 2-3 with wax so really you only need to clean every 4-6 rides. And that of course varies with your ride length.
One thing zfc has tonnes of data on is that with normal chain lube cleaning, unless you are taking the chain off and running it through multiple shake baths of degreaser. It’s never properly clean.
Wax just does this resetting process x10 faster
Thanks for the explanation. I thought waxing the chain would be a great way to keep things clean when I do long (300+ mile) rides, but it seems the wax would not last to the end of my longer rides. I usually get about 300 miles of riding before having to reapply dumond tech@@cyclingunboxed
Some super rides there!
You may find if you are in good conditions the wax may still last:
zerofrictioncycling.com.au/lubetesting/
I think if it’s not perfect though then maybe not.
Go to a hardware store and buy a gallon of acetone. This really, really strips your chain, and the cost is low. Warning- acetone evaporates quickly! So, you always want to make sure you use a lid. Then, rinse under water, dry the chain, and wax as normal. It's also really good to use an ultrasonic cleaner.
I do go over that method in my old video which I linked. I thinks it’s nice to be able to choose which option you go for.
Acetone boils at 56°C so you don't need to rinse in water before waxing. Just put the chain on the washing line for a few minutes and then place straight in the wax pot. Since the chain wax melts around 60°C , any small amount of remaining Acetone will boil off.
Because of its volatility it is NOT recommended to use Acetone in an ultrasonic cleaner, especially if the solvent is open to the air because of the high fire risk / very low flash point of minus 20°C ! Do a search for ...
bjultrasonic can you use acetone in an ultrasonic cleaner.
On the plus side , although in confined spaces you will feel the intoxicating effects , Acetone is expelled from your body quite quickly ( it is the simplest of the Ketone class of chemicals ) . I worked with the stuff for years so I know !
@@dawn_rider I do leave the lid on and open the garage door when I use it. Noted on the heat!
@@rg807 Probably not everyone will do that and will have an interesting result !
This is likely why the zerofrictioncycling YT channel recommends mineral turpentine. In my opinion , Acetone would be better to remove the last of the Turps than the Methylated spirits he uses but in Austrailia Acetone is expensive stuff.
Acetone is highly hygroscopic ( really likes to pull water out of things ) so you could use it to speed up water removal after boiling flush cleans.
If you have 'hard water' with lots of dissolved minerals , that can interfere with the wax / chain metal bond. Rain water is an alternative if you can keep the bird droppings out of it !
and hardwares store sells floor wax works good, put on let it dry. Look for flammable warning !~The good stuff
250km means for me once a week... too much work
You have options though. You can drop wax over the top 3 times and then hot melt again.
Or I run 3 chains so you can just swap out, re wax all the chains at once. They are both 3 week re wax options for you.
And honestly, it doesn’t take much time. Just turn the pot on and throw your chain in.
Walk away or clean your bike until it’s melted.
Take it out and hang to cool
Pop it back on.
As a whole it’s about 2-3 mins of actual doing stuff.
You can just do other bits in between