If you think you are talking too much, you are not. It shows the interest in the subject you are talking about, and that is how the rest of us learn. I wish, when I was in school, I had a teacher like you. Most of the teachers I had just covered the highlights , which made for a lot of questions they had no time to answer. So don't worry about it. I like the way you cover the subjects your talking about. I learn things every time, even when I watch them a second time. Just keep up the good work. Michael from Gig Harbor, Washington State.
Mr. Pete, thank you for sharing this project. Just seeing how the stops clamp is helpful to me. I commented on Sean Flanagan's comment about my idea to keep the stop from twisting or canting just FYI. Another project may be a dial indicator holder that clamps to the way. I know, there are several types of magnetic bases but since the ways are rectangular the dial of the indicator may interfere with chuck or workpiece clearance if positioned on top of the way. I have a Mighty Mag with a 1or 2" indicator on it that I put on the side of the way, but then the dial faces out where you have to bend to see it and that is not always best if you are trying to keep an eye on the tool and the indicator at the same time. Besides, with magnetic indicator holders going to zero is OK, but if you are measuring steps, tangent error may be involved even though it may not be that significant. So I was thinking about making a clamp holder for indicators so that it can be positioned down on the side of the way with the dial facing up, easier to see, and allowing for clearance. Perhaps the indicator would be horizontally adjacent to the side of the way so that very little of the assemble is on top off the way so that a wrench would clear the top of the indicator to tighten the clamp bolts. That way it would clear the headstock. So Mr. Pete, or anyone else, have you made anything like that? If so I'd like to see it.
Mr Pete anther great tool for the lathe I was thanking of getting one for my southbend lathe but I just watch your videos and make my own thanks again for sharing your knowledge
Howdy Mr Pete, I love your videos. As far as speaking to much, I disagree, I love all your little discourses. As someone with virtually no metalwork machining skills they certainly help me. I have been a woodworker for many years, not a metal worker. The last 12 years I have amassed metal working machinery so I have a challenge for my retirement (which isn't far away, if those in power will stop stuffing around with the retirement age). Keep the good work up, all the best from down under (Oz).
Another great video Lyle. Your design will allow me to use the stop on both my Craftsman 12 with 3/8 ways and my Myford Super 7 clone with 1/2 ways. I'm looking forward to your micrometer modification.
I made this carriage stop and love it! I do show it in use in a video on my channel titled machinist hammer part 2. I love the videos and cool projects you come up with!!
Hardly anybody talks about how different lathe types react to the carriage run into a well tightened carriage stop on auto-feed. There are lathes with clutches in the apron, clutches in the lead screw drive and shear pins in the lead screw drive. I don't know if there are more damage limiting mechanisms for this scenario. Then there are rare carriage stops designed to release the auto-feed lever in the apron and stop the carriage on auto-feed without damage. These might be topics that you could mention in your upcoming carriage stop videos for the benefit of many beginners.
+ Hilleary Brown If a lathe has no damage limiting mechanisms and the carriage is run into a stop with auto-feed then either the motor stalls or the weakest link in the feed mechanism breaks. If the motor stalls only for a short moment before switched off you may get away with no damage. If it stalls for a longer time the motor might get hot quickly and the winding wire insulation burns through requiring rewinding or new motor. The weakest link in the feed mechanism is probably the gears no matter if in a change gear or a quick change gear box. Teeth in some gears will be broken out. If you have to replace a gear which is permanently attached to a neighbouring gear then it can get quite pricy (100-200$) since the supplier knows that you can get it only from him...If you can still find it at all. Otherwise you need to make it or have it made which can be quite time consuming or expensive. Therefore there usually are the safety clutches or shear pins which are easy and cheap to replace. With those nothing critical will break but it still puts the feed mechanism under unnecessary strain which will not help its accuracy and longevity.
+ cyberbadger The usual practice on hand lathes is to use the auto-feed only up to a safe distance from the hard stop and then move up to it by hand. Of course you can not be distracted and miss to switch off the auto-feed in time.
As Pete knows, I am one of his most loyal and ardent fans truly. But I am going to do something a little different in this post. I am wondering why the following would not be better than all of these "stops". Why not install another grip (stop) ring on the "lead screw", controlled by an allen screw to act as a "stop". They also make a threaded/locking grip ring which would even be better. Note: the allen screw does NOT screw down on the lead screw. Rather: it is affixed in such a way that it squeezes the split in the grip ring. Cool! It would require removing the carriage temporarily of course, but I believe it would be a very good idea to use this method of stopping the carriage. Incidentally I own an "Ornamental mill" manufactured by Legacy in Utah; that uses this idea and it works VERY well. By the way it is not threaded for fast changes, but it could be threaded if one desired. See the following link: ruclips.net/video/bpDJNYqCrEU/видео.html Then go to 5:05 time mark. and you will see a grip ring on the lead screw which is used solely for a carriage stop on this Ornamental wood lathe. There is a second one to the left of the carriage. Having two means one can stop the carriage in both directions.For milling stopped grooves for example. I feel certain this method would work perfectly on a metal lathe. Maybe Pete will try it. I hope so. In any case, may Jesus richly bless this wonderful man for what he has done for us.
Thanks for mentioning Hobby Metal Kits LLC. I really like Speedy Metals, yet I'm glad to have an alternative - particularly one so highly recommend. What do you think of the idea of making the body deeper, with a lip that overhangs the way, to keep it from twisting?
I have the same lath and no carriage stop so this project is of interest to me, not that all of mrpete222 projects aren't because I greatly enjoy each one and have seen all of them so far. I was thinking the same thing, thin on top that overhangs the inside of the way. The problem is if you nee to put it under the headstock the headstock's in the way. So I was thinking of having an attachment that could be bolted on if the stop is used along the way beyond the headstock. When used directly below the headstock, perhaps the stop, without the attachment, could just bind against the base of the headstock to keep it from twisting. Just some thoughts...
Hello Mr. Pete! I liked the convertible bottom. Possible design modification: have a lip on both sides, one suitable for the 1/2-inch bed and the other suitable for the 3/8-inch bed. That way you get maximum moment arm for both clamp configurations. Just an idea. I currently own two Atlas lathes, one with the 1/2-inch bed and the other with the 3/8-inch bed, so I'm definitely interested. BTW--I think the difference b/w the 1/2-inch and the 3/8-inch beds was not so much the age of the lathe as the difference b/w the pedestal mount and the regular bench mount. The pedestal mount was touted as the "professional" model under the Craftsman badge, so maybe that's what justified the thicker bed. Just my two cents. Thanks as always for your great videos.
Mr Pete. Are you monitoring your camera picture using an Ipad or similar as I can hear the sweet ringing tones of feedback in the background here. 12;04. You can cure that by turning down the volume on the device you are listening on if you feel the need :) Great project !
Pretty much... "Irregardless", though not uncommon, is considered a nonstandard word and generally viewed as incorrect English. It's a uniquely American word, or at least it's origins are considered early 20th century American. It actually doesn't add anything to the sentenace. Have a minor in English...
if the top part extended across the top of the bed - it could have a slot that captures the entire top of the bed slide. then the simple clamp need not prevent the "cocking" problem.
A spelling error has creeped into your title cards. Also, for some reason the Playlist for Machine shop tips #300+ only seems to list the first dozen when you are clearly up to 367. Sorry for the criticism. I really appreciate all the time you have put into these posts. I have learned an incredible amount from your videos. Thank you!
Wou,d it be advantageous to make a "c" shaped stop that spans the top of the way and grips from the side? The seems like it would resolve the cocking issue. I see, it does not fit under the headstock.
please do make an micrometer one !!!! i made one for my atlas lathe but i dont like it ....and i cant pay 80 to 100 for the oem one ....thanks mr pete for all you do !!!
Anyone looking to buy metal for their project, the on line stores are very convenient, BUT- expensive. If you have a local recycler/scrap yard handy as I do, it is worth the trip. They have many new drops. Example: On line- 1018 1x2x12" @ 6.80# is $17.10 from above mentioned on-line store. That same piece from most scrap recyclers like the one by me is at the most they charge $.20 a pound (they give $.04 a pound right now). That means you would pay $1.36 plus tax for that same piece, a $15.74 savings for that same piece. Just saying: it is worth a trip to your local recycler sometime to do your shopping. My next choice is the regular steel/metal supply companies in my area for specific grades of materials. Become friends and customers with them and they will give you a great deal. They also have many cut off drops handy before they send them to the scrap yard. Ed K. Cleve. Oh.
Thanks for your excellent videos. Please keep them coming. As you probably know, lots of old UK lathes had/have flat beds and another possible solution is given in this link which I think has quite a bit of merit. I guess it's a hybrid between your two generations of carriage stop... www.homews.co.uk/page152.html
![1940s Metal Lathe [Restoration]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9s2iZ7HrQX8/mqdefault.jpg)
If you think you are talking too much, you are not. It shows the interest in the subject you are talking about, and that is how the rest of us learn. I wish, when I was in school, I had a teacher like you. Most of the teachers I had just covered the highlights , which made for a lot of questions they had no time to answer. So don't worry about it. I like the way you cover the subjects your talking about. I learn things every time, even when I watch them a second time. Just keep up the good work.
Michael from Gig Harbor, Washington State.
I don't think you talk too much. I enjoy hearing your opinions.
Mr. Pete, thank you for sharing this project. Just seeing how the stops clamp is helpful to me. I commented on Sean Flanagan's comment about my idea to keep the stop from twisting or canting just FYI.
Another project may be a dial indicator holder that clamps to the way. I know, there are several types of magnetic bases but since the ways are rectangular the dial of the indicator may interfere with chuck or workpiece clearance if positioned on top of the way. I have a Mighty Mag with a 1or 2" indicator on it that I put on the side of the way, but then the dial faces out where you have to bend to see it and that is not always best if you are trying to keep an eye on the tool and the indicator at the same time. Besides, with magnetic indicator holders going to zero is OK, but if you are measuring steps, tangent error may be involved even though it may not be that significant.
So I was thinking about making a clamp holder for indicators so that it can be positioned down on the side of the way with the dial facing up, easier to see, and allowing for clearance. Perhaps the indicator would be horizontally adjacent to the side of the way so that very little of the assemble is on top off the way so that a wrench would clear the top of the indicator to tighten the clamp bolts. That way it would clear the headstock.
So Mr. Pete, or anyone else, have you made anything like that? If so I'd like to see it.
Bernie is a good guy, have bought from him, great service, price and packaging
Mr Pete anther great tool for the lathe I was thanking of getting one for my southbend lathe but I just watch your videos and make my own thanks again for sharing your knowledge
Yup. That's gonna be a fun series :) Thanks for sharing with us, sir! :)
Hello I would love to say I love your channel! I love learning new things. Thank you!
Thank you
Howdy Mr Pete, I love your videos. As far as speaking to much, I disagree, I love all your little discourses. As someone with virtually no metalwork machining skills they certainly help me. I have been a woodworker for many years, not a metal worker. The last 12 years I have amassed metal working machinery so I have a challenge for my retirement (which isn't far away, if those in power will stop stuffing around with the retirement age). Keep the good work up, all the best from down under (Oz).
Thanks for watching--good luck with your metalwork.
Yes after your first mention of Hobby metals I turned some of his cast iron into a spindle thread protector for my sears commercial
i love the new camera -- it's much more like standing where you are standing!
Another great video Lyle. Your design will allow me to use the stop on both my Craftsman 12 with 3/8 ways and my Myford Super 7 clone with 1/2 ways. I'm looking forward to your micrometer modification.
I made this carriage stop and love it! I do show it in use in a video on my channel titled machinist hammer part 2. I love the videos and cool projects you come up with!!
Hardly anybody talks about how different lathe types react to the carriage run into a well tightened carriage stop on auto-feed. There are lathes with clutches in the apron, clutches in the lead screw drive and shear pins in the lead screw drive. I don't know if there are more damage limiting mechanisms for this scenario. Then there are rare carriage stops designed to release the auto-feed lever in the apron and stop the carriage on auto-feed without damage. These might be topics that you could mention in your upcoming carriage stop videos for the benefit of many beginners.
Yes--would make a good topic.
Some sheldons used a fiber gear that would strip. I had to buy them by the gross at the school.
rol eic thanks for your comment, I was wondering about what damage the lathe might suffer.
+ Hilleary Brown If a lathe has no damage limiting mechanisms and the carriage is run into a stop with auto-feed then either the motor stalls or the weakest link in the feed mechanism breaks. If the motor stalls only for a short moment before switched off you may get away with no damage. If it stalls for a longer time the motor might get hot quickly and the winding wire insulation burns through requiring rewinding or new motor. The weakest link in the feed mechanism is probably the gears no matter if in a change gear or a quick change gear box. Teeth in some gears will be broken out. If you have to replace a gear which is permanently attached to a neighbouring gear then it can get quite pricy (100-200$) since the supplier knows that you can get it only from him...If you can still find it at all. Otherwise you need to make it or have it made which can be quite time consuming or expensive. Therefore there usually are the safety clutches or shear pins which are easy and cheap to replace. With those nothing critical will break but it still puts the feed mechanism under unnecessary strain which will not help its accuracy and longevity.
+ cyberbadger The usual practice on hand lathes is to use the auto-feed only up to a safe distance from the hard stop and then move up to it by hand. Of course you can not be distracted and miss to switch off the auto-feed in time.
@@cyberbadger...WELL, DON'T USE A CARRIAGE STOP WITH AUTOFEED!!!
I don't see how that's even POSSIBLE...
9:55...on a LeBlonde lathe I use, the carriage stop has the the head of the securing bolt on the BOTTOM of the carriage stop- instead of on the TOP...
As Pete knows, I am one of his most loyal and ardent fans truly.
But I am going to do something a little different in this post. I am wondering why the following would not be better than all of these "stops".
Why not install another grip (stop) ring on the "lead screw", controlled by an allen screw to act as a "stop". They also make a threaded/locking grip ring which would even be better. Note: the allen screw does NOT screw down on the lead screw. Rather: it is affixed in such a way that it squeezes the split in the grip ring. Cool!
It would require removing the carriage temporarily of course, but I believe it would be a very good idea to use this method of stopping the carriage.
Incidentally I own an "Ornamental mill" manufactured by Legacy in Utah; that uses this idea and it works VERY well. By the way it is not threaded for fast changes, but it could be threaded if one desired. See the following link:
ruclips.net/video/bpDJNYqCrEU/видео.html
Then go to 5:05 time mark. and you will see a grip ring on the lead screw which is used solely for a carriage stop on this Ornamental wood lathe. There is a second one to the left of the carriage. Having two means one can stop the carriage in both directions.For milling stopped grooves for example.
I feel certain this method would work perfectly on a metal lathe.
Maybe Pete will try it. I hope so. In any case, may Jesus richly bless this wonderful man for what he has done for us.
Thanks for some good ideas. GOD bless you!
Thanks for mentioning Hobby Metal Kits LLC. I really like Speedy Metals, yet I'm glad to have an alternative - particularly one so highly recommend.
What do you think of the idea of making the body deeper, with a lip that overhangs the way, to keep it from twisting?
I have the same lath and no carriage stop so this project is of interest to me, not that all of mrpete222 projects aren't because I greatly enjoy each one and have seen all of them so far.
I was thinking the same thing, thin on top that overhangs the inside of the way. The problem is if you nee to put it under the headstock the headstock's in the way. So I was thinking of having an attachment that could be bolted on if the stop is used along the way beyond the headstock.
When used directly below the headstock, perhaps the stop, without the attachment, could just bind against the base of the headstock to keep it from twisting.
Just some thoughts...
Hello Mr. Pete! I liked the convertible bottom. Possible design modification: have a lip on both sides, one suitable for the 1/2-inch bed and the other suitable for the 3/8-inch bed. That way you get maximum moment arm for both clamp configurations. Just an idea. I currently own two Atlas lathes, one with the 1/2-inch bed and the other with the 3/8-inch bed, so I'm definitely interested. BTW--I think the difference b/w the 1/2-inch and the 3/8-inch beds was not so much the age of the lathe as the difference b/w the pedestal mount and the regular bench mount. The pedestal mount was touted as the "professional" model under the Craftsman badge, so maybe that's what justified the thicker bed. Just my two cents. Thanks as always for your great videos.
Mr Pete. Are you monitoring your camera picture using an Ipad or similar as I can hear the sweet ringing tones of feedback in the background here. 12;04. You can cure that by turning down the volume on the device you are listening on if you feel the need :) Great project !
THANK YOU...for sharing.
also mr pete can you show how to make a crossfeed stop ??? you might have already done that on though .....
New camera? Very crisp. If it's a GoPro... try the LINEAR video mode...
Its a cheap little Eken 4k.. Very difficult to navigate menus. Not sure it has LINEAR (whatever that is?)
To loosen something means to take it off, so wouldn't unloosening mean to tighten it back up?? : )
John C
I thought the same thing. Like irreguardlless.
John C
The opposite of un-tighten?
Pretty much... "Irregardless", though not uncommon, is considered a nonstandard word and generally viewed as incorrect English. It's a uniquely American word, or at least it's origins are considered early 20th century American. It actually doesn't add anything to the sentenace.
Have a minor in English...
if the top part extended across the top of the bed - it could have a slot that captures the entire top of the bed slide. then the simple clamp need not prevent the "cocking" problem.
only down side is that it won't fit under headstock
A spelling error has creeped into your title cards. Also, for some reason the Playlist for Machine shop tips #300+ only seems to list the first dozen when you are clearly up to 367. Sorry for the criticism. I really appreciate all the time you have put into these posts. I have learned an incredible amount from your videos. Thank you!
Wou,d it be advantageous to make a "c" shaped stop that spans the top of the way and grips from the side? The seems like it would resolve the cocking issue. I see, it does not fit under the headstock.
Thanks for sharing sir..
please do make an micrometer one !!!! i made one for my atlas lathe but i dont like it ....and i cant pay 80 to 100 for the oem one ....thanks mr pete for all you do !!!
That will be tips 370 & 371
9:07...that's known as a "polymer line"...(!)
Anyone looking to buy metal for their project, the on line stores are very convenient, BUT- expensive. If you have a local recycler/scrap yard handy as I do, it is worth the trip. They have many new drops. Example: On line- 1018 1x2x12" @ 6.80# is $17.10 from above mentioned on-line store. That same piece from most scrap recyclers like the one by me is at the most they charge $.20 a pound (they give $.04 a pound right now). That means you would pay $1.36 plus tax for that same piece, a $15.74 savings for that same piece. Just saying: it is worth a trip to your local recycler sometime to do your shopping. My next choice is the regular steel/metal supply companies in my area for specific grades of materials. Become friends and customers with them and they will give you a great deal. They also have many cut off drops handy before they send them to the scrap yard. Ed K. Cleve. Oh.
thank you
11:57...or use "jam nuts"-(?)
Thanks for your excellent videos. Please keep them coming.
As you probably know, lots of old UK lathes had/have flat beds and another possible solution is given in this link which I think has quite a bit of merit. I guess it's a hybrid between your two generations of carriage stop... www.homews.co.uk/page152.html