You're welcome! I suspected you might enjoy this set. I never looked inside! Purchased from a collector's estate. I've found that a bad tube that tests good can sometimes mask or mimic other faults. Glad you were ultimately successful!
Neat little radio. Lead dress on the point to point sets was always important. I always try to put the replacement in exactly as the original wherever possible. Again, great series!
A nice set Vern and nice sleuthing once again. I downloaded the schematic so I could follow along, mine showed the B- as a thick dark line and a tiny B- in the centre, good job working it out. When it wouldn't work you sat and stared at it, I don't feel so bad now 🙂
That was some great troubleshooting work! Although the previous work appeared to be professionally done, it casts doubt when searching for a difficult gremlin whether it was something put back together wrong or if it is something else altogether. Also, you mentioned the isolated chassis; when I do those I change the cap between B- and the chassis to an XY rated safety cap. Thanks!
I think that white powder coating is cadmium, I have seen that and what I do is clean it using an oil soaked rag using 3-in-one oil. Nice repair and that is a beautiful radio Vic sent you. Keep up the great work Vern!
Hello goat. I kind of figured it was cadmium and that's why I wet the rag down to keep the dust down. I'll give the three-in-one a try next time. Thanks for watching my friend.
Thanks for the advice as far as isolation transformers. I have been watching radio repair videos now for over 5 years pertty much daily, I follow several repairmen on RUclips. So after all this time, I began to look for some old sets to work on. At long last I purchased a broken GE set, a 5 tubber but modern enough to have a printed circuit type board. Of course when it came, I opened it up right off, but never plugged it in simply because of every workman insisting I have an isolation transformer. Now I don't have a lot of funds so it took me some searching to find a good new transformer but at long last I purchased a bare bones isolation transformer by a trusted brand, and am going to find a case to mount her in with room for an outlet so I can get started. I don't think I am going to have a lot of luck on this old radio though. The tubes all show a good connection on the heater but testing with my ohm meter I see there is no continuity. On taking the board out (and punching a hole in the speaker damn it! I found that the copper traces have, well sort of disappeared some time ago and a prior owner soldered stripped line cord over the circuit. Not sure what I will find when I do get my transformer built up and ready to ruse. The transformer is ratted at 5 amps so she should give me
Hi Jerry, we have all felt the pain of poking a hole in a speaker. I must admit you made me chuckle. Not at you, but with you as I felt the pain. Hang in there. You learn a little from every disaster and in time it will become easier.
Octal tubes...they should call them odious tubes. Like you said, this one was a difficult patient indeed. Otherwise, a very neat set. Thanks for the very nice video!
Hi larry, no I didn't have to restore any grounds. This chassis is designed to be floating. The b- is its own series of connections throughout the radio. I had just been seeing all of the shield grounds and assuming at the time it was also b minus. I was led down that path because two of the schematics didn't spell out there was a chassis ground and a b+ floating. As soon as I saw that other schematic, the third one, I realized I had been working on the wrong assumption.
The radio machan yes the Tranc oceanic has wav magnet I have the Tranc oceanic it was my uncls and I have one more old tubs seat with shortwave tub set was my uncls the Tranc oceanic is batteries it teck 9 ds
Interesting fault, apart from bitterly gained experience there would seem to be no other way of determining the octal battery tube fault of micro-phonic oscillations. As you say valve testers wouldn't show anything wrong and I guess voltages would be correct or near enough on the various plates/grids/cathodes?
Everything OK but you are scratching, destroying mechanically the bottom of this radio by moving it by shafeling on your table...you are suppose to lift it up for each move not to push it around...if this would be an expensive violin it would be scratched at the contact aria with the table...better use a piece of vinil with the aderent side to the radio box and cloath side part touching the table so it moves easily if you need to shuffle it so much...I can't stand the noise of shafeling that wears out the surface of contact mechanically...
You're welcome!
I suspected you might enjoy this set.
I never looked inside! Purchased from a collector's estate.
I've found that a bad tube that tests good can sometimes mask or mimic other faults. Glad you were ultimately successful!
I got one at an antique store. Plugged her in and it works great! Love it!
What great looking and sensitive old radio you were gifted! Really great job troubleshooting it as well. Really Nice!
Interesting , Good job of chasing it down to the IF tube . Keep them coming ,
Neat little radio. Lead dress on the point to point sets was always important. I always try to put the replacement in exactly as the original wherever possible. Again, great series!
I restored one of these last summer. Great performer.
A nice set Vern and nice sleuthing once again. I downloaded the schematic so I could follow along, mine showed the B- as a thick dark line and a tiny B- in the centre, good job working it out. When it wouldn't work you sat and stared at it, I don't feel so bad now 🙂
That was some great troubleshooting work! Although the previous work appeared to be professionally done, it casts doubt when searching for a difficult gremlin whether it was something put back together wrong or if it is something else altogether. Also, you mentioned the isolated chassis; when I do those I change the cap between B- and the chassis to an XY rated safety cap. Thanks!
I think that white powder coating is cadmium, I have seen that and what I do is clean it using an oil soaked rag using 3-in-one oil.
Nice repair and that is a beautiful radio Vic sent you.
Keep up the great work Vern!
Hello goat. I kind of figured it was cadmium and that's why I wet the rag down to keep the dust down. I'll give the three-in-one a try next time. Thanks for watching my friend.
The radio machan your old radio Receiver GE Model 254 tube portable is cool
Thanks for the advice as far as isolation transformers. I have been watching radio repair videos now for over 5 years pertty much daily, I follow several repairmen on RUclips. So after all this time, I began to look for some old sets to work on. At long last I purchased a broken GE set, a 5 tubber but modern enough to have a printed circuit type board. Of course when it came, I opened it up right off, but never plugged it in simply because of every workman insisting I have an isolation transformer. Now I don't have a lot of funds so it took me some searching to find a good new transformer but at long last I purchased a bare bones isolation transformer by a trusted brand, and am going to find a case to mount her in with room for an outlet so I can get started. I don't think I am going to have a lot of luck on this old radio though. The tubes all show a good connection on the heater but testing with my ohm meter I see there is no continuity. On taking the board out (and punching a hole in the speaker damn it! I found that the copper traces have, well sort of disappeared some time ago and a prior owner soldered stripped line cord over the circuit. Not sure what I will find when I do get my transformer built up and ready to ruse. The transformer is ratted at 5 amps so she should give me
Hi Jerry, we have all felt the pain of poking a hole in a speaker. I must admit you made me chuckle. Not at you, but with you as I felt the pain. Hang in there. You learn a little from every disaster and in time it will become easier.
Octal tubes...they should call them odious tubes. Like you said, this one was a difficult patient indeed. Otherwise, a very neat set. Thanks for the very nice video!
Didn't know about the octal portable radio tubes, only have worked on the 7 pin miniature type.
I think they were developed to be vibration proof. You could put them in a car radio and they wouldn't shake out. Didn't work out so well.
The radio machan I am a coffic dranker that cool
So this is what is meant as a tube going microphonic. It definitely was the cause of the problem.
How are the tubs
When are you going to do something with a little more damage? You guys always get the pristine radios to work on.
Thanks Jim, you gave me the chuckle of the day. As I piece back together the wood for the second Triad, ripping out what little hair I have left. 😀
I was wondering if you had to restore the "ground" connections to an internal B- ground instead of the chassis ground connections.
Hi larry, no I didn't have to restore any grounds. This chassis is designed to be floating. The b- is its own series of connections throughout the radio. I had just been seeing all of the shield grounds and assuming at the time it was also b minus. I was led down that path because two of the schematics didn't spell out there was a chassis ground and a b+ floating. As soon as I saw that other schematic, the third one, I realized I had been working on the wrong assumption.
Text from speech got me again, that b+ should be b minus
Oh c'mon, I want to plug it in and watch the across the line cap explode lol
The radio machan yes the Tranc oceanic has wav magnet I have the Tranc oceanic it was my uncls and I have one more old tubs seat with shortwave tub set was my uncls the Tranc oceanic is batteries it teck 9 ds
Interesting fault, apart from bitterly gained experience there would seem to be no other way of determining the octal battery tube fault of micro-phonic oscillations. As you say valve testers wouldn't show anything wrong and I guess voltages would be correct or near enough on the various plates/grids/cathodes?
That's the real problem, the tube tester and voltage checks would all be normal. Just have to go on experience and trial and error.
Everything OK but you are scratching, destroying mechanically the bottom of this radio by moving it by shafeling on your table...you are suppose to lift it up for each move not to push it around...if this would be an expensive violin it would be scratched at the contact aria with the table...better use a piece of vinil with the aderent side to the radio box and cloath side part touching the table so it moves easily if you need to shuffle it so much...I can't stand the noise of shafeling that wears out the surface of contact mechanically...
I think the work your trying to use is shuffling? And I am not damaging anything as there are four metal feet on the bottom of the cabinet.
@@theradiomechanic9625 ok maybe is the sound..