A friend of mine recommended connecting my supplied charger to a smart plug so one can set the charging time, or the time when you switch it on and/or off, I sometimes just have the app open and I'll monitor it manually from another room and then switch it off when I want to, and I think if you deep dived into the smart plug app you can monitor consumption and various other things, which I personally haven't bothered with, but when I was looking before I saw some options there where you can monitor various bits and pieces if you like. Anyway, a simple idea for those who don't want to, need to or can't afford to purchase another charger.
EUC world on Android has a feature that will disconnect the smart plug once your wheel is at a certain percentage/voltage. I haven't gotten it to work so until then I do what you just described above
Dear Wheel Good Time, I'd like to share some constructive feedback regarding the typical discussion of electrical terms, specifically about the isolated mention of amperes and volts. Mentioning "5A charging" or "120V charging" by itself often leads to confusion because these figures, without their complementary units, don't provide a complete picture of the charging capabilities. For more effective communication, I recommend always referencing power in watts (W), which directly conveys the rate of energy usage or transfer. The formula to determine power is straightforward: Power (W) = Current (A) times Voltage (V) It would be beneficial to specify both current and voltage together when discussing electrical outputs or requirements. For example, instead of saying a charger outputs "10A," it would be clearer to state "10A at 120V," providing a full view of its power output. Consider this comparison for clarity: - A charger operating at 5A and 120V DC produces 600W of power. - Another charger operating at 10A and 48V DC produces 480W. In this scenario, the first charger is more powerful, delivering faster charging due to its higher wattage output. This example underscores the importance of specifying both amperes and volts to accurately convey the effectiveness of a charger. Clear communication about these units can lead to better-informed decisions and help avoid misunderstandings about product capabilities. I appreciate your attention to this matter and hope you find this suggestion useful for future discussions. Thank you for considering my feedback. Best regards
Consider the flow of water through pipes as an analogy to electricity flowing through a charger. Imagine two scenarios: 1. Larger Pipe with Less Pressure: Think of a wide pipe that allows a large amount of water to pass through it, but with relatively low water pressure. This setup might seem capable of delivering a lot of water quickly, but the low pressure limits how fast the water actually flows through it. This is similar to a charger that has a high amperage (large pipe) but low voltage (low pressure). Despite the potential for high output, the actual power delivered (water flow) might not be as high as expected. 2. Smaller Pipe with More Pressure: Now, envision a narrower pipe where water is forced through at high pressure. The smaller diameter restricts the volume of water, but the high pressure pushes the water through at a high speed, effectively delivering water quickly despite the pipe's smaller size. This parallels a charger with lower amperage but higher voltage, resulting in a surprisingly efficient transfer of power. When you think about this analogy in the sense of charge, and electric current. This is why systems with higher voltage can use thinner wires while maintaining the same power output. Of courser all of this is very simplified, and an electrical engineer colleague would comment to this with a lot of it depends, if's, and while statements.
I discussed the max charging current starting at 3:47. In regards to the on-screen text mentioning a minimum of 5a charging current, that was the recommendation for all voltages, as stated by Pidzoom.
@WheelGoodTime I looked at the Pidzoom charger specifications, and it advertises up to 3000W power on a 220V 50Hz line, and up to 1500W on a 110V 60Hz line. This is quite impressive. I only wished there was a voltage / power curve graph for the DC output side. One more important tip! The fact that you can charge an EUC at a higher speed does not really confirm that the parts of that battery pack are rated for the higher current. More current, more heat. Lithium inon polimer battery cells should not be charged at a heat exceeding 45 degree Celsius i personaly recomend keeping it under 40. The actual tip is if you have a "smart bms" that shows the temperatures to check the temperatures with the stock charger, and see how much higer they go when you use a faster charger. This should reduce the degradation of the battery cells, and components. Plus, charging at very low temperatures is very bad too due to lithium plating. Thank you for even entering these discussions with me. Love your videos. Keep up doing it!
I do have a question about about storing your unused euc for a pretty long time( a year for me). The reason is you probably having as many as EUC ( I have 5 EUCs). But some of them i leave them for a very long time before using them in vacation time every year. (I leave them in other country, state ect..). Should I keep them plugin to the charger while in storage. But I worry it's may be a hazardous. For a smaller battery I have something call the trickle charger. I didn't see any for the EUC though.
@@tpol6515 if I were you, since it'd be in storage for that long of a term, I'd recommend unplugging the batteries from the motherboard and discharge the capacitors, then re-plug them in when you get back home and are able to ride again. Alternatively, you could also leave them at about a 50 to 70% charge state, but you are risking potential parasitic battery drain, which could render your batteries completely dead when you get back to your wheels in a year.
@@WheelGoodTime I have a variable charger from ewheels that does 1-2-3-4-5. I have been charging it on 1 figuring that will get me the longest life. The stock charger is 2 or 2.5a.
@@robm425 it's "technically" not limited at all if you want to get real crazy with it. But to answer your question, it is watt limited. I charged at 2200w with no problems whatsoever, but it's technically outside recommendations because heat can build up.
You are usually pretty good but you didn't go into detail on the functionality and how to actually use that charger. I bought that very same charger and I follow the instructions but I don't really understand some of the functionality like the idling maybe I'll just reach out to pid zoom and see what they say
@@WheelGoodTime I was able to set mine to output at 10 amps even though it was technically just outputting at 9.8. I don't know much about charging EUCs or voltage but I look to awesome people like you to clear up everything on what everything on the screen does and how to set it
@@TheSkinnyshowATL I think that may just be what the charger is capable of putting out with the circuitry it has. Mine outputs current at a very tiny bit under what I set it at, but I don't have an issue with it. If I charge set at 8a, it'll usually charge at 7.98 for me, for example. I did set it to charge at 9a on 120VAC (above recommended specs) ND it was outputting 8.5a. I imagine on 240VAC it'd charge at the full amount, and it could be a limitation on the power supplies from the wall. I recommend reaching out to Pidzoom if you need more info or support though 🙂 their warranty on these chargers is awesome.
There is virtually no such thing that doesn't have made in China parts in it anymore so why don't you just figure on that! And there is a lot of stuff that comes from China these days that is excellent quality! 😂😂😂
@boblatkey7160 if you can make a choice to buy something made locally or just simply made somewhere else than China... even if it costs more, do it. This creates jobs and keeps companies innovating. Otherwise, we will live in a monopol economy
@MrSpeedyduck no I don't believe so, but they are very similar. I think the Roger charger ones have a touch screen and cost about $100 more than what I paid for mine. I got that one via direct purchase from TepRides (he has an Etsy store and YT channel) - he had a bunch he was selling for a decent price, so I scooped one up that way.
A friend of mine recommended connecting my supplied charger to a smart plug so one can set the charging time, or the time when you switch it on and/or off, I sometimes just have the app open and I'll monitor it manually from another room and then switch it off when I want to, and I think if you deep dived into the smart plug app you can monitor consumption and various other things, which I personally haven't bothered with, but when I was looking before I saw some options there where you can monitor various bits and pieces if you like.
Anyway, a simple idea for those who don't want to, need to or can't afford to purchase another charger.
EUC world on Android has a feature that will disconnect the smart plug once your wheel is at a certain percentage/voltage. I haven't gotten it to work so until then I do what you just described above
"I need to fill Rob with Joy" 🤔 What does Joy have to say about this 😄
You got me... I sub'd.
Is this safe to use on electric car charger if I had a adapter? Thank you for another great video.
@@animatedlim Definitely! I have a j1772 to Nema 5-15 adapter that I use to connect my EUCs to EV car charging stations 🙂
Yes, but some car chargers won't recognize your adapter. Depends on what adapter you have I think.
Dear Wheel Good Time,
I'd like to share some constructive feedback regarding the typical discussion of electrical terms, specifically about the isolated mention of amperes and volts. Mentioning "5A charging" or "120V charging" by itself often leads to confusion because these figures, without their complementary units, don't provide a complete picture of the charging capabilities.
For more effective communication, I recommend always referencing power in watts (W), which directly conveys the rate of energy usage or transfer. The formula to determine power is straightforward:
Power (W) = Current (A) times Voltage (V)
It would be beneficial to specify both current and voltage together when discussing electrical outputs or requirements. For example, instead of saying a charger outputs "10A," it would be clearer to state "10A at 120V," providing a full view of its power output.
Consider this comparison for clarity:
- A charger operating at 5A and 120V DC produces 600W of power.
- Another charger operating at 10A and 48V DC produces 480W.
In this scenario, the first charger is more powerful, delivering faster charging due to its higher wattage output. This example underscores the importance of specifying both amperes and volts to accurately convey the effectiveness of a charger.
Clear communication about these units can lead to better-informed decisions and help avoid misunderstandings about product capabilities. I appreciate your attention to this matter and hope you find this suggestion useful for future discussions.
Thank you for considering my feedback.
Best regards
Consider the flow of water through pipes as an analogy to electricity flowing through a charger. Imagine two scenarios:
1. Larger Pipe with Less Pressure: Think of a wide pipe that allows a large amount of water to pass through it, but with relatively low water pressure. This setup might seem capable of delivering a lot of water quickly, but the low pressure limits how fast the water actually flows through it. This is similar to a charger that has a high amperage (large pipe) but low voltage (low pressure). Despite the potential for high output, the actual power delivered (water flow) might not be as high as expected.
2. Smaller Pipe with More Pressure: Now, envision a narrower pipe where water is forced through at high pressure. The smaller diameter restricts the volume of water, but the high pressure pushes the water through at a high speed, effectively delivering water quickly despite the pipe's smaller size. This parallels a charger with lower amperage but higher voltage, resulting in a surprisingly efficient transfer of power.
When you think about this analogy in the sense of charge, and electric current. This is why systems with higher voltage can use thinner wires while maintaining the same power output.
Of courser all of this is very simplified, and an electrical engineer colleague would comment to this with a lot of it depends, if's, and while statements.
I discussed the max charging current starting at 3:47. In regards to the on-screen text mentioning a minimum of 5a charging current, that was the recommendation for all voltages, as stated by Pidzoom.
@WheelGoodTime I looked at the Pidzoom charger specifications, and it advertises up to 3000W power on a 220V 50Hz line, and up to 1500W on a 110V 60Hz line.
This is quite impressive. I only wished there was a voltage / power curve graph for the DC output side.
One more important tip!
The fact that you can charge an EUC at a higher speed does not really confirm that the parts of that battery pack are rated for the higher current.
More current, more heat.
Lithium inon polimer battery cells should not be charged at a heat exceeding 45 degree Celsius i personaly recomend keeping it under 40.
The actual tip is if you have a "smart bms" that shows the temperatures to check the temperatures with the stock charger, and see how much higer they go when you use a faster charger.
This should reduce the degradation of the battery cells, and components.
Plus, charging at very low temperatures is very bad too due to lithium plating.
Thank you for even entering these discussions with me.
Love your videos. Keep up doing it!
With 50S you don't even get to 40° at 20A
I do have a question about about storing your unused euc for a pretty long time( a year for me). The reason is you probably having as many as EUC ( I have 5 EUCs). But some of them i leave them for a very long time before using them in vacation time every year. (I leave them in other country, state ect..). Should I keep them plugin to the charger while in storage. But I worry it's may be a hazardous. For a smaller battery I have something call the trickle charger. I didn't see any for the EUC though.
@@tpol6515 if I were you, since it'd be in storage for that long of a term, I'd recommend unplugging the batteries from the motherboard and discharge the capacitors, then re-plug them in when you get back home and are able to ride again. Alternatively, you could also leave them at about a 50 to 70% charge state, but you are risking potential parasitic battery drain, which could render your batteries completely dead when you get back to your wheels in a year.
@@WheelGoodTime I see, If I have 5 EUC then maintain them would be a pain. God I don't want to sell any of them.
Can I connect it directly to a Nuclear Reactor?
@@patrickmckowen2999 yes! But only once 🤣
Might need a 4 pin adaptor for that.
You mentioned a minimum charging of 5 amps. Does this apply to 84v wheels like the V11 as well? Or was that specifically for higher voltage wheels?
They recommend minimum 5a for all voltages. The V11 can handle 5a easily, but I believe this charger goes down to a minimum of 120ish volts
@@WheelGoodTime I have a variable charger from ewheels that does 1-2-3-4-5. I have been charging it on 1 figuring that will get me the longest life. The stock charger is 2 or 2.5a.
Is is amp limited to 14amps or watt limited? I want to charge my 134.4v wheel at 14.7 amps which is under the 2k output
@@robm425 it's "technically" not limited at all if you want to get real crazy with it. But to answer your question, it is watt limited. I charged at 2200w with no problems whatsoever, but it's technically outside recommendations because heat can build up.
You are usually pretty good but you didn't go into detail on the functionality and how to actually use that charger. I bought that very same charger and I follow the instructions but I don't really understand some of the functionality like the idling maybe I'll just reach out to pid zoom and see what they say
@@TheSkinnyshowATL thanks for the feedback - what would you like to know?
@@WheelGoodTime I was able to set mine to output at 10 amps even though it was technically just outputting at 9.8. I don't know much about charging EUCs or voltage but I look to awesome people like you to clear up everything on what everything on the screen does and how to set it
@@TheSkinnyshowATL I think that may just be what the charger is capable of putting out with the circuitry it has. Mine outputs current at a very tiny bit under what I set it at, but I don't have an issue with it. If I charge set at 8a, it'll usually charge at 7.98 for me, for example. I did set it to charge at 9a on 120VAC (above recommended specs) ND it was outputting 8.5a. I imagine on 240VAC it'd charge at the full amount, and it could be a limitation on the power supplies from the wall. I recommend reaching out to Pidzoom if you need more info or support though 🙂 their warranty on these chargers is awesome.
Thank you. I will
Link to the seat?
@@dagainsta6253 it's from Grizzla 🙂
"Wallet freindly" .... Its overpriced.
All clips should start with
This device is " made in China"
So the user knows
I find this very important, at least for me
Everything Euc is china made. Its like you need to be told to piss standing up
That would be on literally every video 😂
There is virtually no such thing that doesn't have made in China parts in it anymore so why don't you just figure on that! And there is a lot of stuff that comes from China these days that is excellent quality! 😂😂😂
@boblatkey7160 if you can make a choice to buy something made locally or just simply made somewhere else than China... even if it costs more, do it.
This creates jobs and keeps companies innovating. Otherwise, we will live in a monopol economy
@@RomeoTudose Euc's are all made in china, just let it go
Overpriced weak sauce, I currently charge a 84v 20 amps off 110v outlet using a 170.00 Amazon charger. 🙄
...But can it also charge 151-168v EUCs?
Is the middle fast charger the Roger Charger?
@MrSpeedyduck no I don't believe so, but they are very similar. I think the Roger charger ones have a touch screen and cost about $100 more than what I paid for mine. I got that one via direct purchase from TepRides (he has an Etsy store and YT channel) - he had a bunch he was selling for a decent price, so I scooped one up that way.
Roger charger SC168 is what roger calls it