Hello Lily Be it a knife and axe or saw the carbon content is a lot higher. Nowadays they're using stainless steel and not much carbon in them. So they don't hold an edge like the old ones. Nice looking pup
Is this your husband/wife breathing behind the camera? Your dog is very cute. She has beautiful eyes. You both coose her wisely. She will become a good companion when you are in the woods.
I am no expert at this but the teeth going left and right is called "set" and it is best done with a tool that will make all of them the same. If you get one over more the the others not good. When using a file you should go in the forward stroke only. It also helps a lot to get a nice crisp edge if the blade does not move while sharpening. What i have done is cut in the end of a block of wood and plant it in the ground so it is firmly in place put blade in notch with teeth up this will hold blade still give you both hands to hold file to make straight strokes and work from both side. Oh and dont forget to take down the rakers. A little is a lot
I like your trick of vertically "scoring" the end of a log ... standing it vertical ... and you have made a "field vise" to sharpen the saw blade in ... now I'm 63 yrs old and just learned a new trick ... never too old to teach an ol' dog new tricks ... Thanks Mr Tim ... good trick!
The steel is "old time". LOL Quality has been reduced to reduce life time and increase sales. If you go to yard sales, auctions, etc. Keep an eye out for old tools. Refurbishing an old one could be better than buying new.
Glad to see u still living your dream Survivor Lilly, and your 🐶 Amy is so precious, I love her. I like your dads old Bow Saw, made back when steel was way better. I thought u did a pretty good job of sharpening it. Keep living your dream Lilly, your a icon around the 🌎. Be safe and hug Amy, she looks like an adventurous dog for sure, make memories that will last.❤️
Amy is so cute! She's going to be a wonderful companion for many years. Regarding the saw blades, manufacturers don't make them like they used to because they want you to have to buy new ones regularly. Make something of quality and you only sell it once, make something that breaks or wears out quickly and you can sell replacements over and over.
Your dog is very cute and has a lot of energy too ! Thanks for showing us how you sharpen your Dads 30 yr old saw which he gave you and how you are trying to preserve it ! Thanks !
What a beautiful Dog, I'm glad you got another dog I have missed Dax in your videos digging up tree roots and chewing through them. A great tip for sharpening saws is to use a needle file for smaller teeth, but remember that a file only cuts in one direction, try not to drag the file backwards as it damages the file and and produces a rounded cutting edge on the saw as it bounces in an uncontrolled way. It is just like sharpening a knife, you never drag the knife backwards always push forwards. Also modern saw blades are very hard compared to old blades and you may get better results with a diamond needle file. Hope this is useful to all.
I have one of those older saws, I have used it more than I can say. One trick I learned is on large cuts is I add a little bit of machine oil down both sides of the blade it will stay sharp longer and make work easier.
Hi Lilly! I have the same exact saw. It’s always been called a “Swede” saw and cuts faster and easier than most others. Only the teeth are tempered to an extreme hardness making it difficult to sharpen. Yes the older steel is much superior compared to the newer blades available. I’ve been sharpening all my edged tools including saws for decades. Here’s the basics... first the saw needs to be in a saw vise, then jointed to flatten the teeth. The correct size file is needed and that saw requires 2 different files. At about a 25 degree angle you proceed to file the teeth in only on the push stroke one side at a time every other tooth. Then do the other side. Now the teeth need to be set... slightly bending the teeth with a saw-set being careful not to snap off the tooth because they are brittle. I don’t recommend using a grinder because they only cause overgrinding and can remove the temper (hardness) of the teeth. This is really a lot of involvement and hardly anyone ever sharpens that kind of blade anymore. Sorry to be so long winded but thought I’d toss to you what’s involved. There’s many videos that explain the basics out there. Good luck and give your pup a scratch for me! Cheers....Pete.
@@EconaelGaming "to flatten" means to flat-file the teeth to exact the same height. Setting the teeth means to bend them left or right. After a lot of sawing and the need to be sharpened again, commonly the "set" is reduced in the middle part of the blade and has to be reestablished. For a perfect result she should have taken the saw back home and done it in her workshop. A saw-set is essential - if one or the other tooth is standing out, it will wear down much faster.
I love videos of your dads bow saw. 50 years ago I bought an identical one in NJ for my dad. It became mine after he passed. We can buy blades at Ace hardware but I will now sharpen mine to keep the original blade. I found a smaller one also in the trash and can sharpen that one as well. Thanks. Beautiful videos.
Blade steel: L6, S7, 15n20 - it's going to be in that general category of steels. Hope that helps. Also, always sharpen >>> with the teeth of the file>>> always pushing >into> the saw blade. Your file will last much longer and the teeth of the saw blade will get much sharper.
Amy is really adorable, so cute, so curious about everything you do - still enough time to explore her surroundings. According to your saw: you should take it to your workshop, clean the rust off the blade, make a saw-sharpening jig (two blade-lenght ledgers clamped around the blade) , get you a saw-set (awkward looking pliers with an adjustment-screw) and do it again very accurat - you might end up with cutting that log in less than 10 seconds! Restoring quality tools is worth every hour you spend on it. Modern blades are induction-hardened, but only the tips, so they loose their set rather quickly.
Hi Lilly, I have a bow saw that is 35 years old and when I bought it it came with 2 blades that were hard point, the cutting teeth were black because of heat treatment. One blade was for cutting green wood and the other was for cutting dry/seasoned wood. The two blades had a different set to the teeth, the green wood one was wider to clear sappy wood and had a larger gap between a set of 4- 6 teeth, depending on TPI. The dry/seasoned wood blade had a narrower set and the teeth had the same amount of spacing between each. Green wood blades need a wider set to clear the moist saw dust out and to reduce the blade being bound by the moisture in the branch while cutting. The extra space between a teeth group set helps clear the the cut. Some green wood blades have raker teeth. Dry wood blade generally have a few more TPI mainly because dry wood is harder and larger teeth can grab when cutting if they are too big or to much down force is used while cutting. Which blade should you get? One of each and use them in the correct situation. Other things to consider is the TPI, teeth per inch. More TPI will cut thin wood easier but less will rip through thick wood faster. Blades with rip saw teeth can take about twice the effort to cut compared to one with nearly double the TPI. In my experience, while you can sharpen a hard point saw blade by just "dressing the teeth" a bit, it is not worth it. The quickest and easiest thing to do is to buy a set for about 10 euro that matches the TPI of your current saw and has a green saw blade and a dry saw blade. Then, just buy spares of the blade you use most often.
I use a feather file on all of my hand saws. Always forward motion with very few strokes per tooth. Always in a vise. Always with leather gloves. Sometimes cutting oil. Good Luck and thanx for sharing this. Cool dog!
... what you are talking about is the "Set of the Teeth" ... and you are correct in that the newer saw blades are cheap steel, not tempered correctly and no "set" ... (made in china???). There is also a small tool available for "setting" the teeth. It clamps onto the saw blade and holds it fixed ... then there is a "turn-screw" that you align w/ the tooth and w/ a couple turns of the screw it bends the tooth ever so slightly to give is a proper "set". then you move the tool over to the next tooth to be "set" ... I first do the teeth in one direction, then turn the saw blade around and repeat for the teeth that need to be "set" in the other direction. Yes, you can use pliers, but the "setting tool" allows for better fine/repeatable control and less likely to break a tooth off ... (count the number of turns of the screw and repeat) You can tell from Amy's eyes ... she is one smart dog ... and pays attention to everything ... when does the "field/hunting" training start??? She's going to be a GREAT hunting companion !!! Video's Please ...
Hi Lilly, It's really very very good that you show that these saws can be sharpened, especially in these days of just throw it out and get a new one. More important, Amy is going to be a lot like Dax, your best friend and a real character !!
Files are not designed to work in both directions, when you file only do so in one direction. Also use a vise so you have more precision and accuracy and safery
From the days of buck and crosscut (six foot misery whips) saws. One "SETS' the teeth form side to side and should be consistent and no wider than the width of the rakers. For bucks and crosscuts the tool (the gauge) to set the teeth is called a spider. There are numerous other specialty tools that are used for setting teeth and rakers' depths and sets. For a bow saw in the field this is sort of trial by fire learning curve. The width of the teeth set, the consistent height of the teeth and the matching height of the sharpened curve of the rakers are critical for ease of operation. The teeth cut parallel "grooves" to your set depth (too deep=hard work, to shallow=hard work). The rakers are the "ACTUAL" cutting edge of the blades. They are the "Chisels" that lift out the wood between the parallel cuts of the teeth. If the teeth shallower than the rakers, the rakers will bind in unscored wood and if the rakers are shallower than the teeth you waste energy scoring wood unnecessarily. If set and sharpened correctly, a curl of wood will be ejected on the push AND pull strokes of the saw. It takes a bit of practice with something like a bow saw to get right, but worth the effort. Having said that... old buck and crosscuts are easy to spot with a basic caliper gauge and HIGHLY desirable and sought after. The back bone or spine of the saws will be narrower than that of the teeth and rakers (the business end) this is because the older saws were rolled out during the manufacture. Newer saws are "stamped" from a single gauge sheet of metal. Happy Felling! :)
I have like it! I believe it is tempered steel. You might take a little fine sandpaper and then oil the blade. It preserves the blade and also allows it so saw a little quicker.
The saw blade could be 75Ni8 (1.5634) or 75Cr1 (1.2003) both are used for quality saws but 75Ni8 has come out of favour what I heard (more expensive). There other steels possible. If it rusts slower than other normal steel it is more likely an alloyed steel and for a saw the Ni alloyed one is likely. You can get it tested for around 75€
When you have something that you know that you like, it's worth the time and effort to do some upkeep, rather than just throwing it away. In this age where so much is just disposable, (whether it's because we don't know how to fix things or we just don't want to put in the effort), it's was nice to see you put the effort into fixing that old saw blade's blunt teeth. Besides, it gave us another opportunity to see your adorable puppy.
Congratulations on your new dog, Amy. She is a darling! I think it was a very good decision for you. :) I don't know the type of steel used in the saw blade, but I suspect you are correct that 30 years ago it was better metal used. You are wise to sharpen it rather than replace it. :) Great video, great to see you laugh and enjoy your new dog! All the best to you!
Hi Lilly the steel may well be pre nuclear steel, it keeps a much better edge. The left and right pitch of the teeth is known as the set, the width of the saw cut is the kerf which as you say stops the blade jambing. Really enjoy your videos thanks.
Love the new puppy! I love the doggos so much. Wasn't allowed to have them growing up, now i have 6! Glad to see the camping videos again, I enjoy them because it's hard to camp now, next best thing is to watch others camping.
Wow.. such a beautiful dog! With the right training, Amy will serve as the most excellent hunting companion. ps. Most files work only in the forward motion...Using your file in a back and forth motion only dulls the file. (ie, Always push, never pull)
Amy is so cute! You're going to have much fun together. :) The bow saw looks like an old Swedish Sandviken from the 1970s. Perhaps Sandviken are still making high quality blades. Could be an interesting comparison between old and new Sandviken blades.
It looks like a Swedish Bahco - Sandvik Bow Saw with its original blade. I also have an old Sandvik Bow saw like that but one size smaller. Regards Klas from Sweden
Older blades were made of a higher content of carbon steel. Great to use easy to sharpen but dulled easier and corroded quicker. Which is why it was and is advised to lightly grease the blade for long term storage. After use all blades should cleaned of all resins that are collected from the wood during cutting and then lighty oil the blade. Many blades today are closer matches to stainless steel - they hold an edge longer and require just a little bit less maintenance and care but are more difficult to sharpen. For either type of blade if you were to stop and dress up the blade after a number of cuts as the pro lumberjacks do with their chain saws, bladed saw and bow saws then you will save so much time and effort when the saw is needed next. A simple rule is never put a tool away dressed for the next use. A dulled blade wont be ready at a moments notice when needed next.
Hey there Lilly! Nice video! Watch out for Amy stealing the show just like Cali always does on Shawns! Great job on the saw. I agree with you: the old tools deserve restauration because they're better and it's fun and rewarding to do. As for efficiency: make a sawhorse. It'll save your back and shoulder(s)! T'ill next time! And I'm verrry curious about the new knife!
Knowing how to sharpen his big woodcutting saw is what kept Zach Fowler warm during his 87 days in Patagonia on The History Channel's Alone series, season 3. He managed to bring in a file on his multi-tool, and sharpened it every single week to keep it strong in the face of the tough trees he had to cut down for firewood. LIke her name, Survival Lilly knows what to do with her saw to keep it sharp enough to make cutting a breeze in a survival situation, especially one that's turning out to be longer than desired. Remember folks, the sharper the saw, the easier the sawing, the fewer precious will calories get expended. Even if it's not a survival situation, it can still be helpful to know. Several years back, my friend and I went camping on a weekend. The weather turned colder and wetter than anticipated, so we had to get and chop up some firewood for the picnic shelter we were camped at, which had a brick fireplace. Neither of us had a saw, just a dull axe of my friend's, but it was too dull to cut the wood, and neither of us had brought a whetstone. She didn't know what to do, and was worried our hours of travel would end in misery, thinking we'd have to spend all our time huddled in her car with the engine running...which is not a fun definition of camping...but luckily, I did know what to do. I started out using the coarse bricks on the side of the hearth as a coarse whetstone, filing down the very rounded over "edge" of her very dull axe, then found a granite river stone nearby that I used for finer work. I then finished the filing stabe with a river stone with very fine grain to put a good edge the axe, before using water and a wet slab of wood to hone the blade. (I didn't want to use my leather belt for honing because I needed to wear the belt and didn't want it to be wet against me. And yes, wet wood CAN hone a blade, if it's smooth and level; it's a technique even older than the Roman Empire.) All told, it took me about twenty, twenty-five minutes, and both my friend and I were very cold (if dry) and in definite need of that fire being laid and lit, but when we finally swung and used that axe to make the tinder and kindling we needed, it took one fourth (if not less!) of the effort the dull version had required. Fun thing was, I caught her teaching how to rock-hone a blade "in an emergency" with the same techniques and tips I'd told her, which types of stone to look for, making sure to use water and not wash away the gritty slurry (since that's part of how you get the blade so well-edged), so on and so forth. I'm happy she taught others, too because the more people who know how to do it...the less I have to do it all myself! XD
Hello Lilly. If you want you can take your saw to a saw to a saw shop to have the teeth sharpened. They have the tools and gauges to sharpen your saw perfectly. It’s ok to sharpen yourself but not easy to get the teeth perfectly sharpened. It will cut like brand new when sharpened with the special tools.
Yeah. I to have recently made the change from new steal tools to looking for steel tools from the early 1920s. They really did something better back then. I'm hooked on old steel and well oiled wood handles
We call this tooth angle the "saw kerf" there is a special tool that makes resetting the angle of them really easy and accurate. :) I learned it doing my Carpentry trade. I like that our school still teaches some of these old school ways even though they are dated in today's industry. 😎
Hallo Lilly, wieder mal ein interessantes Video. Den Vierbeiner den du bei dir hast ist ja eine sehr entzückende. Einen Daumen nach oben für dich. Freue mich schon auf weitere Videos von dir. Alles Gute Alex
High carbon steel was used on the old blades lilly, although they do oxinate rust they r superior cutting tools! My grandad and dad used them, now i hv them to pass down. I hv enjoyed your videos a great deal. Gonna be building again soon. Thx for the knowledge lessons! P.s. Love your puppy Amy do adorable!
my twin pit bull pups chased a mouse under a bathroom vanity and could get out .... i had to disconnect the plumbing and wrestle it away for the wall and lift it up so they could crawl out.... of course they were hollering the whole time.... quite an adventure.... love Amy and most of all love you
dry wood blades aren't that much faster, 20 percent or so at best (1 raker per 4 teeth) personally I think the green wood blade is the best for all around, or having 2 saws for different purposes.
Loved your video lilly, i inherited all my dads and grandads old tools, looking forward to using them. Yes the old steel was better. Love the dog Amy, so darn cute and growing fast. Thx for the inspiration looking forward to more videos. 😉
Als Werkzeugmacher ein paar Tipps: Eine Feile arbeitet nur auf Druck. Beim zurück ziehen, sollte die Feile entlastet werden, da sie sonst nur unnötig stumpf wird. Das Werkstück, hier das Sägeblatt, sollte eingespannt werden, am besten in einen Schraubstock. Eine Feile hält man am Heft (Griff) und vorne an der Spitze, und führt langsam und konzentriert Feilhübe aus, bei gleichem Winkel zum Werkstück. Bitte nicht nur einfach hin- und herfitscheln. Das rundet die Zahnflanke ab. 💗 Zum sägen von runden Hölzern ist es sinnvoll einen Sägebock zu verwenden. Falls keiner da ist, vorher einen bauen. Das lohnt sich. Weiterhin viel Spaß im Wald. 🍀 🙂
Amy is adorable!!! It's funny because before I started the vid I was thinking how much you look like a friend of mine named Amy that I ran into today. Love and peace from the Pacific Northwest! 💚💙💚💙🏞🌲🌳🌎😃
Lilly. I live in San Antonio Texas and I have the very same saw from my dad. The old blades are high carbon steel and rust if you don't use them. I looked at mine and there are no identification marks on it either. I agree that the older the better. Regards. Chip
Good video. I always love watching your videos. It really looks like you have a really good pup! Keep up the good content and keep all of us up to date on your puppy’s growth. I / We love seeing you and your puppy!
nice video, and i like your new pup, you know not many people even know how to sharpen a saw blade but you did a great job, the metal may be of high carbon steel not sure.
Ho Lilly, that is a really nice saw, I'm not sure what these older blades are made of but, I do know if you were to buy such a blade would cost more than the new blades today. My suggestion would to go on Ebay and type in vintage crosscut blades and you may find what you need. You new dog is cute and funny.
Your blade is a carbon steel. New blades are also carbon steel but the difference is they temper them too much.(for safety reasons, I assume) A good blade will have a color range from wheat to purple leaving a flexible but hard blade. The Bow saw I recently bought came with a light blue tempered blade (almost as soft as is possible for steel ) wich is quite a bit softer, dulling quicker. You might want to consider getting a new blade just for cutting "dry" wood. The one you have is a "general purpose/green wood" blade. It will do the job, but dull faster cutting dry hardwoods. Also, your puppy is adorable!
Correction new blades are made from stainless steel… a mixture of iron, aluminum and other cheap readily available metals carbon steel lasts long, rusts easily and but the light rust does not dull quickly making the old ones superior to all new stainless steel tools … with the exception of hammers and cutlery
I'll add another term I didn't see in the other comments referring to the set of the teeth. The total width of the cut is called the "kerf" of the cut. Due to the set of the teeth, the kerf is wider than the body of the blade, thus preventing the blade from jamming in the cut.
Long ago my dad cut wood to heat our home (for over 15 years.) He said the best bow saw blade was sandvik (Swedish steel). It was probably high carbon. When teeth are bent in opposite directions thats called the "Set" or "Kerf" of the blade in English.
Thanks for watching this video. Just to let you know in a few days I will bring out a new knife model so stay tuned :)
Soo Awesome!!!! I hope it's a pocket knife I want to buy one for my sister!!!!!
Love to Amy. Kiss kiss! :)
Love to Amy. Kiss kiss! :)
Hello Lily
Be it a knife and axe or saw the carbon content is a lot higher. Nowadays they're using stainless steel and not much carbon in them. So they don't hold an edge like the old ones. Nice looking pup
Is this your husband/wife breathing behind the camera? Your dog is very cute. She has beautiful eyes. You both coose her wisely. She will become a good companion when you are in the woods.
I am no expert at this but the teeth going left and right is called "set" and it is best done with a tool that will make all of them the same. If you get one over more the the others not good. When using a file you should go in the forward stroke only. It also helps a lot to get a nice crisp edge if the blade does not move while sharpening. What i have done is cut in the end of a block of wood and plant it in the ground so it is firmly in place put blade in notch with teeth up this will hold blade still give you both hands to hold file to make straight strokes and work from both side.
Oh and dont forget to take down the rakers. A little is a lot
Yes forward only on the file..
Glad you mentioned filing the rakers. Saves me from having to explain it.
That was expert enough advise.
Depth gauges
I like your trick of vertically "scoring" the end of a log ... standing it vertical ... and you have made a "field vise" to sharpen the saw blade in ... now I'm 63 yrs old and just learned a new trick ... never too old to teach an ol' dog new tricks ... Thanks Mr Tim ... good trick!
So glad you got a new dog. Missed Dax , he was a good boy. Best of luck with the pup
The steel is "old time". LOL
Quality has been reduced to reduce life time and increase sales.
If you go to yard sales, auctions, etc. Keep an eye out for old tools. Refurbishing an old one could be better than buying new.
Glad to see u still living your dream Survivor Lilly, and your 🐶 Amy is so precious, I love her. I like your dads old Bow Saw, made back when steel was way better. I thought u did a pretty good job of sharpening it. Keep living your dream Lilly, your a icon around the 🌎. Be safe and hug Amy, she looks like an adventurous dog for sure, make memories that will last.❤️
Amy is so cute! She's going to be a wonderful companion for many years. Regarding the saw blades, manufacturers don't make them like they used to because they want you to have to buy new ones regularly. Make something of quality and you only sell it once, make something that breaks or wears out quickly and you can sell replacements over and over.
Your dog is very cute and has a lot of energy too ! Thanks for showing us how you sharpen your Dads 30 yr old saw which he gave you and how you are trying to preserve it ! Thanks !
What a beautiful Dog, I'm glad you got another dog I have missed Dax in your videos digging up tree roots and chewing through them. A great tip for sharpening saws is to use a needle file for smaller teeth, but remember that a file only cuts in one direction, try not to drag the file backwards as it damages the file and and produces a rounded cutting edge on the saw as it bounces in an uncontrolled way. It is just like sharpening a knife, you never drag the knife backwards always push forwards. Also modern saw blades are very hard compared to old blades and you may get better results with a diamond needle file. Hope this is useful to all.
I have one of those older saws, I have used it more than I can say. One trick I learned is on large cuts is I add a little bit of machine oil down both sides of the blade it will stay sharp longer and make work easier.
It also helps with sawing in pitchy wood.
Hi Lilly! I have the same exact saw. It’s always been called a “Swede” saw and cuts faster and easier than most others. Only the teeth are tempered to an extreme hardness making it difficult to sharpen. Yes the older steel is much superior compared to the newer blades available. I’ve been sharpening all my edged tools including saws for decades.
Here’s the basics... first the saw needs to be in a saw vise, then jointed to flatten the teeth. The correct size file is needed and that saw requires 2 different files. At about a 25 degree angle you proceed to file the teeth in only on the push stroke one side at a time every other tooth. Then do the other side. Now the teeth need to be set... slightly bending the teeth with a saw-set being careful not to snap off the tooth because they are brittle. I don’t recommend using a grinder because they only cause overgrinding and can remove the temper (hardness) of the teeth.
This is really a lot of involvement and hardly anyone ever sharpens that kind of blade anymore. Sorry to be so long winded but thought I’d toss to you what’s involved. There’s many videos that explain the basics out there. Good luck and give your pup a scratch for me! Cheers....Pete.
Why do you bend the teeth straight for the filing, just to bend them into their correct position afterwards?
@@EconaelGaming "to flatten" means to flat-file the teeth to exact the same height. Setting the teeth means to bend them left or right. After a lot of sawing and the need to be sharpened again, commonly the "set" is reduced in the middle part of the blade and has to be reestablished.
For a perfect result she should have taken the saw back home and done it in her workshop. A saw-set is essential - if one or the other tooth is standing out, it will wear down much faster.
I love videos of your dads bow saw. 50 years ago I bought an identical one in NJ for my dad. It became mine after he passed. We can buy blades at Ace hardware but I will now sharpen mine to keep the original blade. I found a smaller one also in the trash and can sharpen that one as well. Thanks. Beautiful videos.
Blade steel: L6, S7, 15n20 - it's going to be in that general category of steels. Hope that helps. Also, always sharpen >>> with the teeth of the file>>> always pushing >into> the saw blade. Your file will last much longer and the teeth of the saw blade will get much sharper.
Amy is really adorable, so cute, so curious about everything you do - still enough time to explore her surroundings.
According to your saw: you should take it to your workshop, clean the rust off the blade, make a saw-sharpening jig (two blade-lenght ledgers clamped around the blade) , get you a saw-set (awkward looking pliers with an adjustment-screw) and do it again very accurat - you might end up with cutting that log in less than 10 seconds!
Restoring quality tools is worth every hour you spend on it.
Modern blades are induction-hardened, but only the tips, so they loose their set rather quickly.
Hi Lilly,
I have a bow saw that is 35 years old and when I bought it it came with 2 blades that were hard point, the cutting teeth were black because of heat treatment. One blade was for cutting green wood and the other was for cutting dry/seasoned wood. The two blades had a different set to the teeth, the green wood one was wider to clear sappy wood and had a larger gap between a set of 4- 6 teeth, depending on TPI. The dry/seasoned wood blade had a narrower set and the teeth had the same amount of spacing between each.
Green wood blades need a wider set to clear the moist saw dust out and to reduce the blade being bound by the moisture in the branch while cutting. The extra space between a teeth group set helps clear the the cut. Some green wood blades have raker teeth.
Dry wood blade generally have a few more TPI mainly because dry wood is harder and larger teeth can grab when cutting if they are too big or to much down force is used while cutting.
Which blade should you get? One of each and use them in the correct situation. Other things to consider is the TPI, teeth per inch. More TPI will cut thin wood easier but less will rip through thick wood faster. Blades with rip saw teeth can take about twice the effort to cut compared to one with nearly double the TPI.
In my experience, while you can sharpen a hard point saw blade by just "dressing the teeth" a bit, it is not worth it. The quickest and easiest thing to do is to buy a set for about 10 euro that matches the TPI of your current saw and has a green saw blade and a dry saw blade. Then, just buy spares of the blade you use most often.
I use a feather file on all of my hand saws. Always forward motion with very few strokes per tooth. Always in a vise. Always with leather gloves. Sometimes cutting oil.
Good Luck and thanx for sharing this. Cool dog!
Sounds like good advice.
... what you are talking about is the "Set of the Teeth" ... and you are correct in that the newer saw blades are cheap steel, not tempered correctly and no "set" ... (made in china???). There is also a small tool available for "setting" the teeth. It clamps onto the saw blade and holds it fixed ... then there is a "turn-screw" that you align w/ the tooth and w/ a couple turns of the screw it bends the tooth ever so slightly to give is a proper "set". then you move the tool over to the next tooth to be "set" ... I first do the teeth in one direction, then turn the saw blade around and repeat for the teeth that need to be "set" in the other direction. Yes, you can use pliers, but the "setting tool" allows for better fine/repeatable control and less likely to break a tooth off ... (count the number of turns of the screw and repeat)
You can tell from Amy's eyes ... she is one smart dog ... and pays attention to everything ... when does the "field/hunting" training start??? She's going to be a GREAT hunting companion !!! Video's Please ...
Harry Murphey Very well explained Harry!!
You talk about saw set "pince à avoyer" in french.
Your puppy is such a good addition to your life and channel..And thanks for the tips on sharpening a bow saw.
Hi Lilly,
It's really very very good that you show that these saws can be sharpened, especially in these days of just throw it out and get a new one.
More important, Amy is going to be a lot like Dax, your best friend and a real character !!
Files are not designed to work in both directions, when you file only do so in one direction. Also use a vise so you have more precision and accuracy and safery
Amy is great! Love the pup. Like a baby Dax. Looking forward to watching her camp with you.
From the days of buck and crosscut (six foot misery whips) saws. One "SETS' the teeth form side to side and should be consistent and no wider than the width of the rakers. For bucks and crosscuts the tool (the gauge) to set the teeth is called a spider. There are numerous other specialty tools that are used for setting teeth and rakers' depths and sets. For a bow saw in the field this is sort of trial by fire learning curve.
The width of the teeth set, the consistent height of the teeth and the matching height of the sharpened curve of the rakers are critical for ease of operation. The teeth cut parallel "grooves" to your set depth (too deep=hard work, to shallow=hard work). The rakers are the "ACTUAL" cutting edge of the blades. They are the "Chisels" that lift out the wood between the parallel cuts of the teeth. If the teeth shallower than the rakers, the rakers will bind in unscored wood and if the rakers are shallower than the teeth you waste energy scoring wood unnecessarily.
If set and sharpened correctly, a curl of wood will be ejected on the push AND pull strokes of the saw. It takes a bit of practice with something like a bow saw to get right, but worth the effort.
Having said that... old buck and crosscuts are easy to spot with a basic caliper gauge and HIGHLY desirable and sought after. The back bone or spine of the saws will be narrower than that of the teeth and rakers (the business end) this is because the older saws were rolled out during the manufacture. Newer saws are "stamped" from a single gauge sheet of metal.
Happy Felling! :)
(2:55) 42 strokes to cut through "dull".
(5:30) Helpful pupper is helping!
(7:50) 15 strokes sharp. 3-to-1 improvement. Nice!
What a nice sweet pup! She already really likes you two.
I have like it! I believe it is tempered steel. You might take a little fine sandpaper and then oil the blade. It preserves the blade and also allows it so saw a little quicker.
The saw blade could be 75Ni8 (1.5634) or 75Cr1 (1.2003) both are used for quality saws but 75Ni8 has come out of favour what I heard (more expensive). There other steels possible. If it rusts slower than other normal steel it is more likely an alloyed steel and for a saw the Ni alloyed one is likely. You can get it tested for around 75€
When you have something that you know that you like, it's worth the time and effort to do some upkeep, rather than just throwing it away. In this age where so much is just disposable, (whether it's because we don't know how to fix things or we just don't want to put in the effort), it's was nice to see you put the effort into fixing that old saw blade's blunt teeth. Besides, it gave us another opportunity to see your adorable puppy.
Amy is a beautiful pup.
Really enjoy your videos.
Your pup has your personality. That's why she is so funny/cute!
Wow, what a difference. The old stuff is always the best. I have one of those saws too, to use for camping out.
Amy is such a cute little pup!
Congratulations on your new dog, Amy. She is a darling! I think it was a very good decision for you. :) I don't know the type of steel used in the saw blade, but I suspect you are correct that 30 years ago it was better metal used. You are wise to sharpen it rather than replace it. :) Great video, great to see you laugh and enjoy your new dog! All the best to you!
Hi Lilly the steel may well be pre nuclear steel, it keeps a much better edge. The left and right pitch of the teeth is known as the set, the width of the saw cut is the kerf which as you say stops the blade jambing. Really enjoy your videos thanks.
Love your new pup,cute and adorable and smart👍😆...
I don't know how long we've had to wait for you to finally sharpen that old saw LOL😂🤣🤣 You've been talking about doing it for years now.
Love the new puppy! I love the doggos so much. Wasn't allowed to have them growing up, now i have 6! Glad to see the camping videos again, I enjoy them because it's hard to camp now, next best thing is to watch others camping.
6?! ya you have issues.
Good job on sharpening that saw blade. Thanks for the video,
Hey lily! I admire your new found courage.Getting another sweet companion.May you both enjoy wood life and adventures together.bless n love xx
I’m so happy you got another dog, Amy is precious.
She looks like an English Springer Spaniel without the cropped tail.
Sehr gut und sehr, sehr nett liebe Lilly! Alles Gute, Sepp
Wow.. such a beautiful dog! With the right training, Amy will serve as the most excellent hunting companion. ps. Most files work only in the forward motion...Using your file in a back and forth motion only dulls the file. (ie, Always push, never pull)
Amy is so cute! You're going to have much fun together. :)
The bow saw looks like an old Swedish Sandviken from the 1970s. Perhaps Sandviken are still making high quality blades. Could be an interesting comparison between old and new Sandviken blades.
That puppy is so cute and I love the survival challenges, it’s a way of life for us and it’s a passion! Keep it up
Great job,love your new pup. Be a good camping buddy.
It looks like a Swedish Bahco - Sandvik Bow Saw with its original blade. I also have an old Sandvik Bow saw like that but one size smaller. Regards Klas from Sweden
Older blades were made of a higher content of carbon steel. Great to use easy to sharpen but dulled easier and corroded quicker. Which is why it was and is advised to lightly grease the blade for long term storage. After use all blades should cleaned of all resins that are collected from the wood during cutting and then lighty oil the blade. Many blades today are closer matches to stainless steel - they hold an edge longer and require just a little bit less maintenance and care but are more difficult to sharpen.
For either type of blade if you were to stop and dress up the blade after a number of cuts as the pro lumberjacks do with their chain saws, bladed saw and bow saws then you will save so much time and effort when the saw is needed next. A simple rule is never put a tool away dressed for the next use. A dulled blade wont be ready at a moments notice when needed next.
Hey there Lilly! Nice video! Watch out for Amy stealing the show just like Cali always does on Shawns! Great job on the saw. I agree with you: the old tools deserve restauration because they're better and it's fun and rewarding to do. As for efficiency: make a sawhorse. It'll save your back and shoulder(s)! T'ill next time! And I'm verrry curious about the new knife!
Glad to see you keep that heirloom saw going. All old tools are worth that time spent. That dog made me laugh.
Knowing how to sharpen his big woodcutting saw is what kept Zach Fowler warm during his 87 days in Patagonia on The History Channel's Alone series, season 3. He managed to bring in a file on his multi-tool, and sharpened it every single week to keep it strong in the face of the tough trees he had to cut down for firewood. LIke her name, Survival Lilly knows what to do with her saw to keep it sharp enough to make cutting a breeze in a survival situation, especially one that's turning out to be longer than desired. Remember folks, the sharper the saw, the easier the sawing, the fewer precious will calories get expended.
Even if it's not a survival situation, it can still be helpful to know. Several years back, my friend and I went camping on a weekend. The weather turned colder and wetter than anticipated, so we had to get and chop up some firewood for the picnic shelter we were camped at, which had a brick fireplace. Neither of us had a saw, just a dull axe of my friend's, but it was too dull to cut the wood, and neither of us had brought a whetstone. She didn't know what to do, and was worried our hours of travel would end in misery, thinking we'd have to spend all our time huddled in her car with the engine running...which is not a fun definition of camping...but luckily, I did know what to do.
I started out using the coarse bricks on the side of the hearth as a coarse whetstone, filing down the very rounded over "edge" of her very dull axe, then found a granite river stone nearby that I used for finer work. I then finished the filing stabe with a river stone with very fine grain to put a good edge the axe, before using water and a wet slab of wood to hone the blade. (I didn't want to use my leather belt for honing because I needed to wear the belt and didn't want it to be wet against me. And yes, wet wood CAN hone a blade, if it's smooth and level; it's a technique even older than the Roman Empire.)
All told, it took me about twenty, twenty-five minutes, and both my friend and I were very cold (if dry) and in definite need of that fire being laid and lit, but when we finally swung and used that axe to make the tinder and kindling we needed, it took one fourth (if not less!) of the effort the dull version had required.
Fun thing was, I caught her teaching how to rock-hone a blade "in an emergency" with the same techniques and tips I'd told her, which types of stone to look for, making sure to use water and not wash away the gritty slurry (since that's part of how you get the blade so well-edged), so on and so forth. I'm happy she taught others, too because the more people who know how to do it...the less I have to do it all myself! XD
Hello Lilly. If you want you can take your saw to a saw to a saw shop to have the teeth sharpened. They have the tools and gauges to sharpen your saw perfectly. It’s ok to sharpen yourself but not easy to get the teeth perfectly sharpened. It will cut like brand new when sharpened with the special tools.
Yeah. I to have recently made the change from new steal tools to looking for steel tools from the early 1920s. They really did something better back then. I'm hooked on old steel and well oiled wood handles
Amy is adorable! I have had a saw like that for over twenty years now. Cuts like a hot knife through butter. The best!
me encanta tu perrita, genial lo natural y divertido de tu video, saludos desde Uruguay, gracias.
Your Spaniel is beautiful. They are among the very best of breeds. Such soft coats too.
We call this tooth angle the "saw kerf" there is a special tool that makes resetting the angle of them really easy and accurate. :) I learned it doing my Carpentry trade. I like that our school still teaches some of these old school ways even though they are dated in today's industry. 😎
Indubitably, the purpose of a sawbuck is to [1] save your back and [2] keep your saw sharp.
!!!! Puppy is so adorable and cute .. I keep seeing it 🧐🧐
just don't eat it
There is a special plier for bending the teeth exactly into the correct angle. My dad sharpened all our sawblades just like that one.
Hallo Lilly, wieder mal ein interessantes Video. Den Vierbeiner den du bei dir hast ist ja eine sehr entzückende. Einen Daumen nach oben für dich. Freue mich schon auf weitere Videos von dir. Alles Gute Alex
sweet wee pup she is , thanks for bring us with you i always thought you had to buy a new blade, Awesome information.
Channeling her inner Dax, Amy gets out from under the clean and dry shelter to play in the rain and dirt and mud!
High carbon steel was used on the old blades lilly, although they do oxinate rust they r superior cutting tools! My grandad and dad used them, now i hv them to pass down. I hv enjoyed your videos a great deal. Gonna be building again soon.
Thx for the knowledge lessons! P.s. Love your puppy Amy do adorable!
Lessons like this is why you are one of my favorite channels.
Ami so CUTE!🐶😍
Nothing like the old steel. I have a few myself. Thanks for the tips
my twin pit bull pups chased a mouse under a bathroom vanity and could get out .... i had to disconnect the plumbing and wrestle it away for the wall and lift it up so they could crawl out.... of course they were hollering the whole time.... quite an adventure.... love Amy and most of all love you
Hey Lilly, the sawblade, which you use is for fresh wood. Get a sawblade for dry wood and you will saw much faster and save power.
dry wood blades aren't that much faster, 20 percent or so at best (1 raker per 4 teeth)
personally I think the green wood blade is the best for all around, or having 2 saws for different purposes.
She has grown so much already!
Cute puppy! Hope things are going well!
Lily you could not have a better sidekick than Amy. And glad you made your saw cut like BUTTER. fast and efficient.
Loved your video lilly, i inherited all my dads and grandads old tools, looking forward to using them. Yes the old steel was better. Love the dog Amy, so darn cute and growing fast. Thx for the inspiration looking forward to more videos. 😉
Als Werkzeugmacher ein paar Tipps: Eine Feile arbeitet nur auf Druck. Beim zurück ziehen, sollte die Feile entlastet werden, da sie sonst nur unnötig stumpf wird. Das Werkstück, hier das Sägeblatt, sollte eingespannt werden, am besten in einen Schraubstock. Eine Feile hält man am Heft (Griff) und vorne an der Spitze, und führt langsam und konzentriert Feilhübe aus, bei gleichem Winkel zum Werkstück. Bitte nicht nur einfach hin- und herfitscheln. Das rundet die Zahnflanke ab. 💗 Zum sägen von runden Hölzern ist es sinnvoll einen Sägebock zu verwenden. Falls keiner da ist, vorher einen bauen. Das lohnt sich. Weiterhin viel Spaß im Wald. 🍀 🙂
Your dog is so cute. It’s fun having a companion on a hiking trip.
🎶 Toss a tissue to cameraman... 🎶 :D
And a mic cover, lol its so distracting
Who is the camera person by the way?
Charles walter her husband i guess
@@charleswalter2902 big bad wolf
Amy is adorable!!! It's funny because before I started the vid I was thinking how much you look like a friend of mine named Amy that I ran into today. Love and peace from the Pacific Northwest! 💚💙💚💙🏞🌲🌳🌎😃
Lilly. I live in San Antonio Texas and I have the very same saw from my dad. The old blades are high carbon steel and rust if you don't use them. I looked at mine and there are no identification marks on it either. I agree that the older the better. Regards. Chip
I cant believe how good looking your dog is
Awe Amy is adorable.
Tuning up a saw is fun and rewarding 😄
Good tips and totally love the puppy.
Thank you now I will sharpen mine!
such a lovely beautiful dog! I am happy for you Lilly!
That doggy is too cute!
It looks like Amy wanted to help. Puppy power!
Good video. I always love watching your videos. It really looks like you have a really good pup! Keep up the good content and keep all of us up to date on your puppy’s growth. I / We love seeing you and your puppy!
Amy is getting use to camp and looking forward to your new knife!
Danke einfach immer wider für die coolen Vidios und den Aufwand!;-)
Such a sweet pup!
I bought a couple of those saws and several blades back about 1980. They were made by Sandvik in Sweden. Very good saws and blades.
I got a new folding saw (Bahco Laplander), never used one before but I love it. And so easy to carry!
I absolutely love that stage.. they look like they are they to learn from everything
nice video, and i like your new pup, you know not many people even know how to sharpen a saw blade but you did a great job, the metal may be of high carbon steel not sure.
Ho Lilly, that is a really nice saw, I'm not sure what these older blades are made of but, I do know if you were to buy such a blade would cost more than the new blades today. My suggestion would to go on Ebay and type in vintage crosscut blades and you may find what you need. You new dog is cute and funny.
Your blade is a carbon steel. New blades are also carbon steel but the difference is they temper them too much.(for safety reasons, I assume) A good blade will have a color range from wheat to purple leaving a flexible but hard blade. The Bow saw I recently bought came with a light blue tempered blade (almost as soft as is possible for steel ) wich is quite a bit softer, dulling quicker. You might want to consider getting a new blade just for cutting "dry" wood. The one you have is a "general purpose/green wood" blade. It will do the job, but dull faster cutting dry hardwoods. Also, your puppy is adorable!
Correction new blades are made from stainless steel… a mixture of iron, aluminum and other cheap readily available metals carbon steel lasts long, rusts easily and but the light rust does not dull quickly making the old ones superior to all new stainless steel tools … with the exception of hammers and cutlery
Love your new Puppy Lilly 😀
I'll add another term I didn't see in the other comments referring to the set of the teeth. The total width of the cut is called the "kerf" of the cut. Due to the set of the teeth, the kerf is wider than the body of the blade, thus preventing the blade from jamming in the cut.
thanks for sharing an interesting experience
You are the best Lilly. Thank you. Cheers
you and Amy are gonna have lots of fun together😊👍
I love your new puppy, she will be a great camper. XD
Really good video, great camp 👍👍love seeing your dog in the videos 👍👍
Long ago my dad cut wood to heat our home (for over 15 years.) He said the best bow saw blade was sandvik (Swedish steel). It was probably high carbon. When teeth are bent in opposite directions thats called the "Set" or "Kerf" of the blade in English.