Michel - the BEST video EVER! You’re a TOP man! 👍👍👍 Happy to give these jobs a go after watching your videos. Without them I’d be rather unsure but your videos massively instil confidence and help others from making mistakes. Thank you once again.
@@RS5Fanatic thanks Michel! A job for the weekend! Will install the new coolant pump and thermostat this weekend and I’m just organising the crank turning tool and injection rebuild kits and will do a carbon clean next weekend :-) 👍
Thank you guys so much for putting this information up. I have an RS5 aswell, it idles it a little rough the first minute after a cold start, after that minute it drives pretty smooth. But is has never been cleaned and it's now on 110.000 km. The dealer told me it's not necessary, I disagree with them. If I wanted it, I had to go to a third parrty. Well with this much detail I can dot it myself. I have a second car to drive to daily km's so I can finish this with no hurry in my own garage. Again, amazing stuff guys, thank you so much.
Most welcome! Join us over on Audizine. I have more info there as well as discussions with other RS5 owners. Link is above in the video description. As for Audi, they'll never ever say it's necessary until the car throws a code. And that will, miraculously, always happen after the normal warranty has expired. I too had little misses at startup which pretty much disappeared after the clean. Seat of the pants horsepower was up too and I felt a nice bump in the midrange as well as the top end. And six tenths in the 1/4 mile is nothing to sneeze at. Given your mileage, I"m sure it'll look much as mine did. Also, you can download the factory service manual directly from Audi for under $40. That buys you a 24-hour pass and you can download everything to your heart's content. The docs are all in PDF format. I should do a how to video on that! erwin.audi.com/erwin/showHome.do
Hi, thanks for the friendly reply. I will join Audizine, and that erwin section looks interesting. My RS5 is a fairly trouble free car so far for me ( I own it now 4 years, 2010 model). 2 camshaft sensors (not too expensive and easy to replace, a rear wheelbearing and a sweating(not leaking) high pressure fuel pump which I got for free, because the car was still under extended warranty. Tires, brakes and oils is just normal maintenance. I will give my old daily driver (A4 b6 2.0 fsi) also a walnut blast, I can first train my skills on that one :-)
Wow!! What a great video!! A joy to watch! My compliments for the time and effort you put in filming ( and editting) all of this. A small remark… when you edit text into your video let it show as long as it takes to read completely + 1 sec. Now I had to stop the video because the time the text is visible is to short. Thats all…. Keep on going!! Great!!!
Thank you for the feedback, greatly appreciated and glad you're enjoying the channel's content! I've slowly evolved the videos over the years and duly noted on the read time. If you ever need any performance parts, just reach out to me, sales@redmistracing.com. Web site: www.redmistracing.com
Once you get the UIM off and can see the valves through the LIM, would it be beneficial to spray sea foam lightly on the valves and let them sit? Wonder if there would be any benefit to use sea foam and stop there if you didn’t want to take off the LIM.
i have to do this on my 14 RS5. how long would you say this entire process takes? this is a very excellent and detailed video, i just want to know roughly how much time is involved so i can plan it better
Honestly it'll come down to how big your air compressor is. I also have a way to do this without putting the car in the service position now. I spread it out over two days in the video but a lot of that was due to filming. I would say it took me eight hours, mostly due to the fact my air compressor was too small. Today, with a bigger air compressor, I could do it in about four hours including swapping in new injector seals. If you have any questions, can email me, sales@redmistracing.com.
Hi. Luv the advices. My old mechanic didn't have a clue about this stuff but I have found one who does. Had the walnut blast done. Issue is still getting (how to describe) labour/bumps/ uneven power band/ bumps at the low end when you put foot down bit more. Did intake clean too (i suspect hinges on valve may need more work according to ur other vids) Where to go from here. Want ECU n stuff as u recommend but can't when still experiencing this.
I would suggest acquiring a Ross Tech VCDS and doing a full scan. It does sound like when the upper intake manifold went back on that they didn't activate the port divider flaps in the lower portion to move them out of the way. If that isn't done, the flaps get caught in position and don't open up fully. Can cause the issue you're having. Usually it'll throw a code that will show up if you scan the car.
How would you check the PCV valves, given that the buildup wasn't that terrible you don't seem to have any issue with them being stuck open. Complete housing and hose sold at the dealer, pretty expensive though.
Likely better gas mileage but in something like the RS5 it's hard to quantify as you're on the throttle more with the newfound hp after carbon cleaning. If anything you're actually improving volumetric efficiency which means more air is getting into the combustion chamber and using more gas. Restrictions on the intake side can actually make the car use less gas but there are so many other factors it'd be a very minor change. Still, gaining 20hp or so, you're likely burning more fuel.
Rotate the engine via the front crank pulley. There's a part number for that tool listed at the beginning of the video. The other option is to "bump" the engine over with the start button but it's less precise. Likely the closing of the valves is in part two. :)
So how critical is a carbon clean? I have heard guys say they can tell no difference. Audi dealers say not necessary? I'm confused 😕 I have s5 v8 it seems to be running perfectly fine 94k on the clock
I have personally seen (and listened to) a 100,000 mile RS4 sit and idle perfectly for 30 minutes and it'd never had a carbon clean. I've also seen vehicles with codes and other issues as a result of carbon buildup. When opening up mine for carbon cleaning there was no way it wasn't affecting airflow and ultimately power. Audi doesn't say you need it until something goes wrong or your car is out of warranty as they know they have a liability on their hands. The newer generation motors now all come with direct and port injection. You don't necessarily feel the loss because it happens slowly over time. But if you do decide to carbon clean your engine, I guarantee you'll feel a difference after.
They are fairly easy to remove. No special tool needed unless they’re fused in there! But no real issues at 50,000 miles plus they all came up when I pulled the lower intake manifold up.
I’m on the fence...I believe I can do this with my D4 4.2 A8, but I’d have to find a compressor, and it would take me several hours more to complete, as I’m not a natural in the garage. At 130k miles, I assume the carbon is awful. The intake needs to come off to fix a leak anyway.
My best advice on a compressor is to get a good one that does at least 135psi and has a 10 or 20 gallon tank. You can also rent them from places like Home Depot. My compressor can produce a lot of PSI but the tank is really small so it took much longer than it needed to,
I used the 2 gallon Fortress unit from Harbor Freight and it worked but was really too small. I used the Central Pneumatic portable abrasive blaster kit for the walnut media. So basically the air compressor powers the abrasive blaster. I would get an inline water filter too. I didn't have that and it'll help speed things up and prevent the line from clogging. Use the medium grit walnut.
None, you rotate the crank so the valves are closed and you vacuum everything out. I took an additional step and used a liquid cleaner to wipe out any dust/debris. It's actually pretty easy.
Fine walnuts tend to clog the media gun more so I went with medium. I may try fine the next time around with a better air compressor and an inline water filter.
Michel - the BEST video EVER! You’re a TOP man! 👍👍👍
Happy to give these jobs a go after watching your videos. Without them I’d be rather unsure but your videos massively instil confidence and help others from making mistakes. Thank you once again.
You bet Ben. Make sure to watch part two and use the largest compressor you can get your hands on. Will really speed things up!
@@RS5Fanatic thanks Michel! A job for the weekend! Will install the new coolant pump and thermostat this weekend and I’m just organising the crank turning tool and injection rebuild kits and will do a carbon clean next weekend :-) 👍
@@BenJamminJones1 You're an animal! My back hurts just thinking about it!
Thank you guys so much for putting this information up. I have an RS5 aswell, it idles it a little rough the first minute after a cold start, after that minute it drives pretty smooth. But is has never been cleaned and it's now on 110.000 km. The dealer told me it's not necessary, I disagree with them. If I wanted it, I had to go to a third parrty. Well with this much detail I can dot it myself. I have a second car to drive to daily km's so I can finish this with no hurry in my own garage.
Again, amazing stuff guys, thank you so much.
Most welcome! Join us over on Audizine. I have more info there as well as discussions with other RS5 owners. Link is above in the video description.
As for Audi, they'll never ever say it's necessary until the car throws a code. And that will, miraculously, always happen after the normal warranty has expired. I too had little misses at startup which pretty much disappeared after the clean. Seat of the pants horsepower was up too and I felt a nice bump in the midrange as well as the top end. And six tenths in the 1/4 mile is nothing to sneeze at.
Given your mileage, I"m sure it'll look much as mine did. Also, you can download the factory service manual directly from Audi for under $40. That buys you a 24-hour pass and you can download everything to your heart's content. The docs are all in PDF format. I should do a how to video on that! erwin.audi.com/erwin/showHome.do
Hi, thanks for the friendly reply. I will join Audizine, and that erwin section looks interesting. My RS5 is a fairly trouble free car so far for me ( I own it now 4 years, 2010 model). 2 camshaft sensors (not too expensive and easy to replace, a rear wheelbearing and a sweating(not leaking) high pressure fuel pump which I got for free, because the car was still under extended warranty. Tires, brakes and oils is just normal maintenance.
I will give my old daily driver (A4 b6 2.0 fsi) also a walnut blast, I can first train my skills on that one :-)
Fantastic job. Detailed and informative. Thank you.
Thank you for this well detailed and informative video. I will be doing this after a PCV repair on a SQ5.
Most welcome, glad I could help!
how did you repair your PCV ? have a similar engine any advice would greatly be appreciated...
Bravo quel travail merci pour tes videos de très bonne qualité et très explicite, merci
De rien!
Wow just made me so glad I have a B8 S5 that intake looked like a PITA to take off compared to the other 4.2
LOL, yeah it was a pain to get off the first time but I find it fairly easy now.
Amazing efforts and great video 💪🏻
Wow!! What a great video!! A joy to watch! My compliments for the time and effort you put in filming ( and editting) all of this.
A small remark… when you edit text into your video let it show as long as it takes to read completely + 1 sec.
Now I had to stop the video because the time the text is visible is to short.
Thats all…. Keep on going!!
Great!!!
Thank you for the feedback, greatly appreciated and glad you're enjoying the channel's content! I've slowly evolved the videos over the years and duly noted on the read time. If you ever need any performance parts, just reach out to me, sales@redmistracing.com. Web site: www.redmistracing.com
love your vids
anyone got a part number for the grommet at @6:32? i assume theyre the same for the Audi S5 4.2 also?
Just an awesome video. Thanks
What an excellent video. Thank you.
You're very welcome!
Once you get the UIM off and can see the valves through the LIM, would it be beneficial to spray sea foam lightly on the valves and let them sit? Wonder if there would be any benefit to use sea foam and stop there if you didn’t want to take off the LIM.
i have to do this on my 14 RS5. how long would you say this entire process takes? this is a very excellent and detailed video, i just want to know roughly how much time is involved so i can plan it better
Honestly it'll come down to how big your air compressor is. I also have a way to do this without putting the car in the service position now. I spread it out over two days in the video but a lot of that was due to filming. I would say it took me eight hours, mostly due to the fact my air compressor was too small. Today, with a bigger air compressor, I could do it in about four hours including swapping in new injector seals. If you have any questions, can email me, sales@redmistracing.com.
Hi. Luv the advices.
My old mechanic didn't have a clue about this stuff but I have found one who does. Had the walnut blast done. Issue is still getting (how to describe) labour/bumps/ uneven power band/ bumps at the low end when you put foot down bit more. Did intake clean too (i suspect hinges on valve may need more work according to ur other vids) Where to go from here. Want ECU n stuff as u recommend but can't when still experiencing this.
I would suggest acquiring a Ross Tech VCDS and doing a full scan. It does sound like when the upper intake manifold went back on that they didn't activate the port divider flaps in the lower portion to move them out of the way. If that isn't done, the flaps get caught in position and don't open up fully. Can cause the issue you're having. Usually it'll throw a code that will show up if you scan the car.
Fantastic video. What about an oil can catcher?
Working on one!
How would you check the PCV valves, given that the buildup wasn't that terrible you don't seem to have any issue with them being stuck open. Complete housing and hose sold at the dealer, pretty expensive though.
Did you need to get front in service position in order to fit the speciap tool to rotate the engine?
Thanks
You do BUT, if you get a spark plug adapter for your air compressor, you can use it to rotate the engine and no need to go into service position.
Did you also notice a difference in gasoline consumption?
Likely better gas mileage but in something like the RS5 it's hard to quantify as you're on the throttle more with the newfound hp after carbon cleaning. If anything you're actually improving volumetric efficiency which means more air is getting into the combustion chamber and using more gas. Restrictions on the intake side can actually make the car use less gas but there are so many other factors it'd be a very minor change. Still, gaining 20hp or so, you're likely burning more fuel.
But how did you close the rest of the valves, think you miss to explain that part 😅
Rotate the engine via the front crank pulley. There's a part number for that tool listed at the beginning of the video. The other option is to "bump" the engine over with the start button but it's less precise. Likely the closing of the valves is in part two. :)
Good 🎉
So how critical is a carbon clean? I have heard guys say they can tell no difference. Audi dealers say not necessary? I'm confused 😕 I have s5 v8 it seems to be running perfectly fine 94k on the clock
I have personally seen (and listened to) a 100,000 mile RS4 sit and idle perfectly for 30 minutes and it'd never had a carbon clean. I've also seen vehicles with codes and other issues as a result of carbon buildup. When opening up mine for carbon cleaning there was no way it wasn't affecting airflow and ultimately power. Audi doesn't say you need it until something goes wrong or your car is out of warranty as they know they have a liability on their hands. The newer generation motors now all come with direct and port injection. You don't necessarily feel the loss because it happens slowly over time. But if you do decide to carbon clean your engine, I guarantee you'll feel a difference after.
@@RS5Fanatic thanks for the insight, very helpful from someone who obviously knows these engines 👍
Can you confirm there is no need for an injector removal tool as what the service manual suggests?
Or are they fairly easy to take out ?
They are fairly easy to remove. No special tool needed unless they’re fused in there! But no real issues at 50,000 miles plus they all came up when I pulled the lower intake manifold up.
I’m on the fence...I believe I can do this with my D4 4.2 A8, but I’d have to find a compressor, and it would take me several hours more to complete, as I’m not a natural in the garage. At 130k miles, I assume the carbon is awful. The intake needs to come off to fix a leak anyway.
My best advice on a compressor is to get a good one that does at least 135psi and has a 10 or 20 gallon tank. You can also rent them from places like Home Depot. My compressor can produce a lot of PSI but the tank is really small so it took much longer than it needed to,
nice video mate, am doing the same to my car
Hey, did you use the 4Gal 200PSI air pump and CENTRAL PNEUMATIC
Portable Abrasive Blaster Kit only for the cleaning. (walnut blaster set up only)?
I used the 2 gallon Fortress unit from Harbor Freight and it worked but was really too small. I used the Central Pneumatic portable abrasive blaster kit for the walnut media. So basically the air compressor powers the abrasive blaster. I would get an inline water filter too. I didn't have that and it'll help speed things up and prevent the line from clogging. Use the medium grit walnut.
@@RS5Fanatic thanks 👍🏽
did you have any concerns about debris inside the cylinder ?
None, you rotate the crank so the valves are closed and you vacuum everything out. I took an additional step and used a liquid cleaner to wipe out any dust/debris. It's actually pretty easy.
Damn a lot of work 😂 No way that i will do this myself
I know this is old but if this doesn't make you think about a TESLA! Good god that is insane.
fine walnuts would be better , great job
Fine walnuts tend to clog the media gun more so I went with medium. I may try fine the next time around with a better air compressor and an inline water filter.