Just found your channel and subbed buddy, I'm a bike builder myself, and totally share the "if you need one, make one" ethic, thats what floats my boat
I also love watching Karl's videos. He makes his tools and encourages ppl to make their own knowing that no everyone will be in the situation where they can buy his pre-made tools, so your approach is spot on! I have been thinking about a panel I need to make for my 38 and frankly so glad to have stumbled upon your channel (subscribed now) because the embedded 1/4 plate is very cool and does reduce the cost. I think that I will opt for high density fiber board for the top and bottom surfaces. A way to maybe keep the wayes at bay could be to use a small hand held router with some clamped down bar as a guide. I plan on making a few generics to have on hand to speed up future projects but won't be going crazy with it either. I look forward to binging some of your videos. Good job!
Totally completely agree not needing thousands of dollars worth of tooling. I personally enjoy making all my tools from scrap steel that I've collected throughout the years then sometimes working on my projects. You can have great satisfaction having tools that you built yourself affordably and knowing the tool is worth hundreds when you've only spent pennies! Don't be intimidated by these fabricators that have thousands and thousands of dollars worth of tooling and an expensive overhead shop. You can have success and higher profits with lower dollar tools just might take a little more time with a lot less anxiety! This can also be the same concept in your fabrication more enjoyable to build the panels, parts ect... then it is to buy them and just both them on. Great educational video thanks!!
Try cutting your slots with a router and straight edge/fence. Accurate layout, drill your end holes, use the appropriate router bit. You could drill one end hole and let the router finish the other end. Use stops for the router. Your idea is cool! I admire your way of doing things!ook forward to more. ...
Hello from East Tennessee! I think this is a good tip. I love Carl’s videos too, but I’m not in business, I just want to make stuff for myself. I’m retired, on a budget, building my shop one piece at a time.
Its a learning process. you took what you learned from Carl and ran with it. I think it looks great too, and you'll get even better at it. Thanks for sharing!
Your results speak for themselves. Not only is is inexpensive, it's quick to throw together if you want a 'one and done' solution. When you do find yourself on a panel that will be more visible, fine sand and polish both your hammer die and 'anvil' side until they shine like chrome. Thanks for the video, subbed!
I watch Karl. Very talented person . Lets not forget he is also a bussinessman trying to earn a living.Could we make tools cheaper.Yes.Could we make them better.Yes. Thats why we do this hobby because it could take us ten hours to make a singular bit and it dosen't matter. Because time is on our side. He looks to make thimgs simpler for us but turn a profit. If he's a good bussiness man he should behind his product By the way good video keep up the great work.
Just stumbled across your channel , great content , I'm a back yard builder , no deep pockets here ! Lol build alot of my own tools and parts, no matter what we build things get expensive , bolts, screws , consumables , primer , ect.... crazy how the little things will really hurt your pockets. I'm making my boys for doing basically the same thing out of smoothing bits for air hamned , 25.00 - 4 pack e bay, also playing with the idea of using large head diameter bolts from tractor supply and just shaping them myself , if they last to or three beads , they'd be worth it. Anyway thank you , just subscribed
My thought on your tips breaking is that you're trying to use this on a pickup bed with out the assembly being clamped to the bench. I suspect the bits got hit from multiple angles as both the hammer was hitting in the downward motion and the assembly reflected back at the bit at a high rate. I may be way off but if you got some new bits, I'd try clamping everything down to see if that changed anything. I like your idea though and will probably make some this weekend, thanks.
I like your solution for doing this for those of us on a budget. I don't know where you live but dang I wish our steel prices here in New Mexico were as cheap as yours. Here a sheet of 1/4" plate is well over $500. Even scrap is expensive here and it SUCKS 😢😢😢
As far as what you may have done wrong: My Opinion, you should have clamped your plates down more solid on the work station. The form bouncing around was not good for something that is hardened. Holding the tool solid when the form is bouncing seems fit the idea Karl was talking about. I have never tried it, so take my idea with a grain of salt, it is just an opinion. You know better than I do. I like how you do things and I subscribed and will be watching more. I like cheap and DIY. Keep up the good work. I also watch Karl. He seems to make everything very solid. This is just an idea.
It is a great way of doing things on the cheap. I used to see the guys make patterns for aircraft panels, and they used to use more bolts and clamps near the edges to keep the forms more ridged (sandwiched) . If the surface bounces, the metal will flex, and the tips could have been breaking from that. Try doing it on the floor and not on the truck bed. I'm just saying. The better the clamp it prevents in your case the wood from giving. Have you tried MDF that works well too. Good luck on the floor. It looks good, but you're right it's going to get covered.
I try other items for tip inserts aluminum,nylon,wood, may not last but if you can shape on sander insert in head tighten you can replace and make another just buy right diameter stock and try.they make plug tools for counter sank screws than you need hardwood or cutting board,aluminum to make tips
Delrin or polymer POM is a great product for bushings, gears and other medium duty applications. I wouldn’t design it for this use. It is a brittle material but will take considerable shear force. Impact not so much. Your steel tool is the way to go imo. Nice video!
This is excellent. I'm thinking that MDF and tempered hardboard might be good materials for this. If the edges are brushed with shellac they would also be more durable. Probably not something that would be needed for just a use or two. I do mostly wood work but have an interest in metal shaping. Thanks for the video, I like your style, I have to be frugal too. (cheap) I follow Karl too, he is a genius. Carter auto restyling is a great one to follow too, he is very budget minded and creative with basic tools turning out incredible work. I just subscribed.
I, too, love making my own tools, and my nearly 500 kg bench is not just a bench it serves as a major tool holder to come. I have been working on using 40x6 mm flat bar. After all, it can be cut welded, shaped ground. Steel is what we do, not that wood crap can't put it back on if you take to much off. I do buy cheap chinwa tools and make modifications to them, so far so good. If I had the money I would buy some of these great tooling that way the time I use to make could go into the project. Nice video thanks
Looks like a great idea, especially for single use instances. I'll have to give this idea a shot when I do the boot bottom panel in "Lazarus," the 1958 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite I am restoring on my channel. I can't justify the cost of steel for forming patterns I'll probably only ever use once. FWIW, I've used plywood and hardboard patterns to cut odd shaped cutouts in 18 gauge with a plasma torch, sawing the intricate pattern cutouts using a scroll saw then fine tuning the shapes with a rasp and sand paper.
You could have used the 1/4” bar stock as rails for the depth layer to maybe make the edges straight and crisper line. Great idea though… Subbed to see where you go… from Middle Tennessee
Awesome! Nice video! Hello from West TN. I like how you found a way to adapt his techinique into that floor pan. It looks good. I wonder if it shrank the overall size of the panel much. Have you tried to fit it back in? Would it matter if it shrank some overall?
Just found you and subscribed. Really like your modification to Karl’s forms. I’m a beginner and probably won’t ever do anything outside of my own projects so I can’t justify spending a lot of money just to sit tools in the corner 95% of the time. If you haven’t seen him yet, there’s another fella in Canada that does with what he has like you. Fitzees Fabrications. He does nice work with very little. Looking forward to seeing all your videos
Nice Video!!!! A thought about how to make the lines straight. If you have a router, you can use a flush trim bit with a straight edge or the edge of 1/4" flat stock. Alternately you can make different length patterns from mdf and rout the lines in from patterns with a flush trim bit to save a little time. I have a tremendous amount of respect for Karl but I too would rather spend my money on a tool to make other tools than a single purpose tool.
Pretty clever change. You could probably make your top sheet die from flat bar just like your bottom sheet. Then you don’t have to be so perfect with the jig saw.
Utube algorithm brought me here, good video. Yea, i liked what carl did with his form tools, the price and the execution of his idea were problematic for me. Im just an old retired hobby guy, not afraid to spend a few dollars on something i can use a lot. Nuff said I was watching a guy a couple months back that makes forming tools for power hammers, he mentioned using delran and plastics on aluminium only, steel dies on steel panels. I subscr8bed and liked the video, will be coming back.
Good video i will definetly use the wood buck idea. question What camera are you using that follows you that well? a little off subject but im interested in getting one
Good video for diy. But I noticed that your pattern was moving around on the ribs of the bed of truck. Knot sure but maybe it needed to be clamped down on a solid metal table top to stop it from moving. Don't know for sure if it would make a difference, but it might be something to check out.
I also watch karls videos and i like his work and the tools he creates and i have copied a few with good success i didnot buy these bits for that reason i didnt see them holding up and im glad i didnt i am on tight budget also so make do i like your idea and i think im going to use on a couple things i need to put beads in i have never seen your channel but like it i am now a subscriber and look forward to your videos thanks
Great video! What about a straight edge and flush cutting router bit to get a good straight edge on the wood? If you wanted to make a more permanent but yet affordable jig, what about making it out of hard maple or something like that? Same with the bottom.... for something more rigid, what about a concrete pad with the bolts sticking out instead of the solid OSB panel?
I'm wondering (assuming your work supports would allow for it) if you put a heavy plate behind your wood form, or some sort of sand hammer bag would help? This would allow more of the forming force to flow the metal into the forms instead of moving the workpiece and dies (in some respects, compare to.a heavy anvil for pounding). Also a new subscriber. Saw a link included in suggested vids from another vid I was watching, and like your approach to metal working
Thanks Bro. Sou do Brasil e tenho uma oficina em casa. Estou restaurando uma Kombi 74. Quero fazer várias coisas assim no assoalho dela. Deus abençoe em compartilhar conosco.
Awesome video mate and I'm now a subscriber! I've got a question about your camera equipment, in this vid you turn on something to get the camera to follow you. Would you be happy to share what that was as I would really like this feature to help me with my training videos. Cheers
@@Baxtersdownsouthcustoms Thanks so much for your quick reply and the info. Keep up the awesome work and I'm now going back to watch your previous videos.
Hey bud, you said "Delron", I think you mean Delrin. A better material, that is still pliable is UHMW, ultra high molecular weight polyethylene. I used it as rollers on lots of high speed machinery in the past. It's available at many places but we always used Mcmaster. Anyhow, you may find it a more suitable material for this work; no matter how smart Karl is...
Im thinking the die thickness is whats causing the tip failure. The edge chips the die. Likely wont fail with osb dies. I like your plan with the osb and plywood. Seems to work well. I took only one metal shaping class,with Karl at Brent’s. They are both genuine, awesome guys. If you can attend one of Karls classes i dont think you will be disappointed.
@@franksgarage8551 an actual metal shaping class is definitely in my future. You can learn a lot from just watching RUclips, but nothing beats a hands on class with some knowledgeable instructors to help guide you.
Hey, I love what you're doing. Maybe I'll try it to But I gotta know what camera you're using, my wife, and I both thought you had a cameraman............until you said gotta turn the camera lock back on I'll subscribe
After watching the video, I feel strongly that a Delrin tip is not how this tool should be made. I don't even think Delrin should be employed. I do like the long lasting steel that is polished. If leaving marks in the sheet metal even though the tip is polished, I would think that a very thin application of a thin oil would be enough to prevent marking the bead. I noticed that it broke immediately after getting near the end of the slot so I would tend to think it contacted the 1/8" plate. How can you make a decent bead and not have that happen? I am all for your idea. Too bad that for many DIY guys, they are one and done and even though this is simplified, many will not take this just because the steel cost scares them but what is the alternative that will look as nice and strengthen a flat panel? As the surgeon once said, "Incisions, incisions".
@@4speed3pedals i agree. The price of steel is a big factor. This was the most budget friendly way i could think to do it. Its definitely a good option for the diy guys.
Just My opinion. I think the dies are breaking because from the looks of things your work area is cold. I see you with a coat on so I assume that the temp is kinda cold. Now plastic when cold becomes very brittle and therefore can shatter easilly. That I think is what is causing the dies to break. Ken
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![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Just found your channel and subbed buddy, I'm a bike builder myself, and totally share the "if you need one, make one" ethic, thats what floats my boat
I also love watching Karl's videos. He makes his tools and encourages ppl to make their own knowing that no everyone will be in the situation where they can buy his pre-made tools, so your approach is spot on! I have been thinking about a panel I need to make for my 38 and frankly so glad to have stumbled upon your channel (subscribed now) because the embedded 1/4 plate is very cool and does reduce the cost. I think that I will opt for high density fiber board for the top and bottom surfaces. A way to maybe keep the wayes at bay could be to use a small hand held router with some clamped down bar as a guide. I plan on making a few generics to have on hand to speed up future projects but won't be going crazy with it either. I look forward to binging some of your videos.
Good job!
Totally completely agree not needing thousands of dollars worth of tooling. I personally enjoy making all my tools from scrap steel that I've collected throughout the years then sometimes working on my projects. You can have great satisfaction having tools that you built yourself affordably and knowing the tool is worth hundreds when you've only spent pennies! Don't be intimidated by these fabricators that have thousands and thousands of dollars worth of tooling and an expensive overhead shop. You can have success and higher profits with lower dollar tools just might take a little more time with a lot less anxiety! This can also be the same concept in your fabrication more enjoyable to build the panels, parts ect... then it is to buy them and just both them on. Great educational video thanks!!
Try cutting your slots with a router and straight edge/fence. Accurate layout, drill your end holes, use the appropriate router bit. You could drill one end hole and let the router finish the other end. Use stops for the router. Your idea is cool! I admire your way of doing things!ook forward to more.
...
Fitzee is of the same mindset, and I'm all about this!
I think Fitzee is the smarter one. 8^)
Great video , I am going to add beads to my floor using this method . Thanks for sharing .
Hello from East Tennessee! I think this is a good tip. I love Carl’s videos too, but I’m not in business, I just want to make stuff for myself. I’m retired, on a budget, building my shop one piece at a time.
@@kitmaira I'm Southeast TN. It's a beautiful area. Im slowly upgrading my shop. What are you working on?
@ Harley bobber. Two Jeep CJs. I just started printing parts for the JDs Garage plasma table.
Hello from Minnesota! I am from east TN (west of Knoxville). Tell me about printing parts for a plasma table 🤔 @@kitmaira
Its a learning process. you took what you learned from Carl and ran with it. I think it looks great too, and you'll get even better at it. Thanks for sharing!
My brain had the exact same idea as yours. Metal is better. Now I know I'll work just fine.
Thanks for sharing this 👍
Your results speak for themselves. Not only is is inexpensive, it's quick to throw together if you want a 'one and done' solution. When you do find yourself on a panel that will be more visible, fine sand and polish both your hammer die and 'anvil' side until they shine like chrome. Thanks for the video, subbed!
This is a good video for people needing a cheaper way. I’m all about making my own tools.
@@howardhall67 thank you. I'm all about budget friendly.
The algorithm brought me here, now sub'd. Nicely done!
Just stumbled upon your channel. Watched this and I’m on board with what you do! Subscribed 👍🏼
@@dubnutty thanks for the subscribe
Subscribed because you’ve got a Fridge grill on the wall! And you do some coool stuff!
@@jbz8117 I appreciate the subscribe. The Fridge grill is going on a 58 F800 car hauler I'm building.
I just love this kind of ingenuity ! Keep 'em coming
@@roym.9875 thanks for the kind words
Great video! Keep it coming!
@@johnnieburge4997 thank you
For a "poor" man you're doing alright...subscribed.
Great video! Glad I found your channel.
@@ClintsStreetMachines welcome to the channel!
Thanks for the info
Hell Yes, subscribed
I watch Karl. Very talented person . Lets not forget he is also a bussinessman trying to earn a living.Could we make tools cheaper.Yes.Could we make them better.Yes. Thats why we do this hobby because it could take us ten hours to make a singular bit and it dosen't matter. Because time is on our side. He looks to make thimgs simpler for us but turn a profit. If he's a good bussiness man he should behind his product By the way good video keep up the great work.
Great video! I agree Karl is a genius!
Just stumbled across your channel , great content , I'm a back yard builder , no deep pockets here ! Lol build alot of my own tools and parts, no matter what we build things get expensive , bolts, screws , consumables , primer , ect.... crazy how the little things will really hurt your pockets. I'm making my boys for doing basically the same thing out of smoothing bits for air hamned , 25.00 - 4 pack e bay, also playing with the idea of using large head diameter bolts from tractor supply and just shaping them myself , if they last to or three beads , they'd be worth it. Anyway thank you , just subscribed
It's actually metal embossing, a technique we used in the coach building trade many years back.
Hey Brother, great ideas and nice work! My 53 Woody needs some floor repair and I will definitely give this a go! Much obliged!
My thought on your tips breaking is that you're trying to use this on a pickup bed with out the assembly being clamped to the bench. I suspect the bits got hit from multiple angles as both the hammer was hitting in the downward motion and the assembly reflected back at the bit at a high rate. I may be way off but if you got some new bits, I'd try clamping everything down to see if that changed anything. I like your idea though and will probably make some this weekend, thanks.
How about turning the air pressure down to just where it works
I like your solution for doing this for those of us on a budget. I don't know where you live but dang I wish our steel prices here in New Mexico were as cheap as yours. Here a sheet of 1/4" plate is well over $500. Even scrap is expensive here and it SUCKS 😢😢😢
@Mr.BsGarage wow...that's crazy expensive. I just bought a sheet 4x8 sheet of 16ga for $55 and a 4x10 of 18ga is $70
As far as what you may have done wrong: My Opinion, you should have clamped your plates down more solid on the work station. The form bouncing around was not good for something that is hardened. Holding the tool solid when the form is bouncing seems fit the idea Karl was talking about. I have never tried it, so take my idea with a grain of salt, it is just an opinion. You know better than I do. I like how you do things and I subscribed and will be watching more. I like cheap and DIY. Keep up the good work. I also watch Karl. He seems to make everything very solid. This is just an idea.
It is a great way of doing things on the cheap.
I used to see the guys make patterns for aircraft panels, and they used to use more bolts and clamps near the edges to keep the forms more ridged (sandwiched) . If the surface bounces, the metal will flex, and the tips could have been breaking from that. Try doing it on the floor and not on the truck bed. I'm just saying.
The better the clamp it prevents in your case the wood from giving. Have you tried MDF that works well too. Good luck on the floor. It looks good, but you're right it's going to get covered.
I try other items for tip inserts aluminum,nylon,wood, may not last but if you can shape on sander insert in head tighten you can replace and make another just buy right diameter stock and try.they make plug tools for counter sank screws than you need hardwood or cutting board,aluminum to make tips
Delrin or polymer POM is a great product for bushings, gears and other medium duty applications. I wouldn’t design it for this use. It is a brittle material but will take considerable shear force. Impact not so much. Your steel tool is the way to go imo. Nice video!
I think he should try UHMW rod, buy a 12" piece, toss it on a lathe and make whatever you need.
My only guess on the tips breaking, add an air regulator and tone down the hammer. Nice content!
This is excellent. I'm thinking that MDF and tempered hardboard might be good materials for this. If the edges are brushed with shellac they would also be more durable. Probably not something that would be needed for just a use or two. I do mostly wood work but have an interest in metal shaping. Thanks for the video, I like your style, I have to be frugal too. (cheap) I follow Karl too, he is a genius. Carter auto restyling is a great one to follow too, he is very budget minded and creative with basic tools turning out incredible work. I just subscribed.
@@paulhedman7387 thanks for the subscribe. Ill check out Carter auto restyling.
New subscriber good video
@toddenglert4815 welcome to the channel. Thanks for subscribing
I, too, love making my own tools, and my nearly 500 kg bench is not just a bench it serves as a major tool holder to come. I have been working on using 40x6 mm flat bar. After all, it can be cut welded, shaped ground. Steel is what we do, not that wood crap can't put it back on if you take to much off. I do buy cheap chinwa tools and make modifications to them, so far so good. If I had the money I would buy some of these great tooling that way the time I use to make could go into the project. Nice video thanks
Great video. One thing I did notice was a bit of side to side movement in the groove. I wonder it it is hitting and fracturing.
Looks like a great idea, especially for single use instances. I'll have to give this idea a shot when I do the boot bottom panel in "Lazarus," the 1958 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite I am restoring on my channel. I can't justify the cost of steel for forming patterns I'll probably only ever use once. FWIW, I've used plywood and hardboard patterns to cut odd shaped cutouts in 18 gauge with a plasma torch, sawing the intricate pattern cutouts using a scroll saw then fine tuning the shapes with a rasp and sand paper.
awesome
You could have used the 1/4” bar stock as rails for the depth layer to maybe make the edges straight and crisper line. Great idea though… Subbed to see where you go… from Middle Tennessee
@@madmike8406 nice. I'm from South East Tennessee
I just watch Carl's video on this yesterday 😅 and like u I was thinking how could I make it myself
nice job
Awesome! Nice video! Hello from West TN. I like how you found a way to adapt his techinique into that floor pan. It looks good. I wonder if it shrank the overall size of the panel much. Have you tried to fit it back in? Would it matter if it shrank some overall?
Just found you and subscribed. Really like your modification to Karl’s forms. I’m a beginner and probably won’t ever do anything outside of my own projects so I can’t justify spending a lot of money just to sit tools in the corner 95% of the time. If you haven’t seen him yet, there’s another fella in Canada that does with what he has like you. Fitzees Fabrications. He does nice work with very little. Looking forward to seeing all your videos
@@bryanporter894 thanks for the subscribe. And ill definitely check out Fitzees channel
Nice Video!!!! A thought about how to make the lines straight. If you have a router, you can use a flush trim bit with a straight edge or the edge of 1/4" flat stock. Alternately you can make different length patterns from mdf and rout the lines in from patterns with a flush trim bit to save a little time. I have a tremendous amount of respect for Karl but I too would rather spend my money on a tool to make other tools than a single purpose tool.
Pretty clever change. You could probably make your top sheet die from flat bar just like your bottom sheet. Then you don’t have to be so perfect with the jig saw.
@@bdpgarage i actually consider doing that. I have a couple more panels i have to put beads in. I may try it on one of them.
Utube algorithm brought me here, good video. Yea, i liked what carl did with his form tools, the price and the execution of his idea were problematic for me. Im just an old retired hobby guy, not afraid to spend a few dollars on something i can use a lot. Nuff said
I was watching a guy a couple months back that makes forming tools for power hammers, he mentioned using delran and plastics on aluminium only, steel dies on steel panels.
I subscr8bed and liked the video, will be coming back.
Good video i will definetly use the wood buck idea. question What camera are you using that follows you that well? a little off subject but im interested in getting one
@@Rustyhalligans I use the DJI Osmo pocket 3. It's a nice little camera with a built in gimbal
Good video for diy. But I noticed that your pattern was moving around on the ribs of the bed of truck. Knot sure but maybe it needed to be clamped down on a solid metal table top to stop it from moving. Don't know for sure if it would make a difference, but it might be something to check out.
I also watch karls videos and i like his work and the tools he creates and i have copied a few with good success i didnot buy these bits for that reason i didnt see them holding up and im glad i didnt i am on tight budget also so make do i like your idea and i think im going to use on a couple things i need to put beads in i have never seen your channel but like it i am now a subscriber and look forward to your videos thanks
@@chriskappes9170 thanks for the subscribe. Ill do my best to keep good content coming out
Great video! What about a straight edge and flush cutting router bit to get a good straight edge on the wood? If you wanted to make a more permanent but yet affordable jig, what about making it out of hard maple or something like that? Same with the bottom.... for something more rigid, what about a concrete pad with the bolts sticking out instead of the solid OSB panel?
@@JoeLoucek good ideas!
Thanks for the Video👌. What's the camera and mic setup your using?
@@jayg9439 camera is the dji osmo packet 3. Dji mic as well
I'm wondering (assuming your work supports would allow for it) if you put a heavy plate behind your wood form, or some sort of sand hammer bag would help? This would allow more of the forming force to flow the metal into the forms instead of moving the workpiece and dies (in some respects, compare to.a heavy anvil for pounding).
Also a new subscriber. Saw a link included in suggested vids from another vid I was watching, and like your approach to metal working
Thanks Bro. Sou do Brasil e tenho uma oficina em casa. Estou restaurando uma Kombi 74. Quero fazer várias coisas assim no assoalho dela. Deus abençoe em compartilhar conosco.
Awesome video mate and I'm now a subscriber! I've got a question about your camera equipment, in this vid you turn on something to get the camera to follow you. Would you be happy to share what that was as I would really like this feature to help me with my training videos. Cheers
@davidsmith1110 my camera has a built-in gimbal. It is the dji osmo pocket 3
@@Baxtersdownsouthcustoms Thanks so much for your quick reply and the info. Keep up the awesome work and I'm now going back to watch your previous videos.
You was doing some fast talking there at 31:33 😂
What Guge sheet metal are you forming?
@@BeaverLakeForge-2023 18 gauge
looks good yo me
Hey bud, you said "Delron", I think you mean Delrin. A better material, that is still pliable is UHMW, ultra high molecular weight polyethylene. I used it as rollers on lots of high speed machinery in the past. It's available at many places but we always used Mcmaster. Anyhow, you may find it a more suitable material for this work; no matter how smart Karl is...
Im thinking the die thickness is whats causing the tip failure. The edge chips the die. Likely wont fail with osb dies.
I like your plan with the osb and plywood. Seems to work well.
I took only one metal shaping class,with Karl at Brent’s. They are both genuine, awesome guys. If you can attend one of Karls classes i dont think you will be disappointed.
@@franksgarage8551 an actual metal shaping class is definitely in my future. You can learn a lot from just watching RUclips, but nothing beats a hands on class with some knowledgeable instructors to help guide you.
Hey, I love what you're doing. Maybe I'll try it to
But I gotta know what camera you're using, my wife, and I both thought you had a cameraman............until you said gotta turn the camera lock back on
I'll subscribe
@@Frankensteinfabrications the camera is the DJI Osmo pocket 3. It has a built in gimbal.
@@Baxtersdownsouthcustoms thank you
After watching the video, I feel strongly that a Delrin tip is not how this tool should be made. I don't even think Delrin should be employed. I do like the long lasting steel that is polished. If leaving marks in the sheet metal even though the tip is polished, I would think that a very thin application of a thin oil would be enough to prevent marking the bead. I noticed that it broke immediately after getting near the end of the slot so I would tend to think it contacted the 1/8" plate. How can you make a decent bead and not have that happen? I am all for your idea. Too bad that for many DIY guys, they are one and done and even though this is simplified, many will not take this just because the steel cost scares them but what is the alternative that will look as nice and strengthen a flat panel? As the surgeon once said, "Incisions, incisions".
@@4speed3pedals i agree. The price of steel is a big factor. This was the most budget friendly way i could think to do it. Its definitely a good option for the diy guys.
Just My opinion. I think the dies are breaking because from the looks of things your work area is cold. I see you with a coat on so I assume that the temp is kinda cold. Now plastic when cold becomes very brittle and therefore can shatter easilly. That I think is what is causing the dies to break. Ken
Is that a MB 401?
@@paulstalder5708 are you asking about my mig torch? If so it is not a MB 401
I think you die needed to be clamped to solid surface. I wonder if the die bouncing is causing them to break
Have you tried using oil? Might work better.
@@paularnold802 i was going to give it a try when i do the opposite side. Cant hurt to try it.
I saw nothing you did wrong. I believe them bits were cheap as hell.