Cheers Mate, I followed your video and drained, cleaned & refilled the fan clutch in my Mitsubishi Triton/L200 with 10,000Cst silicone oil which I got from a hobby shop. They stock it because people put it in their remote controlled car differentials. $10.00 bucks a bottle & it Woks great. My fan was totally screwed up and was working the opposite to how it should, it was loose when hot & tight when cold but this fixed it. Also how does the sealed clutch end up getting tiny pieces of dirt in it? That has got me bamboozled. Another tip for you people: If the o-ring is stretched or flattened (or both), just boil it in water for 10 minutes & it reverts back to shape. It's still a little bigger than the grove but at least you can massage it back into place easily. It's probably a good idea to boil it even if it isn't stretched because it goes back to the correct shape & "as new" thickness. EDIT: I discovered an even quicker method. If you heat the O-Ring with a heat gun while you have it sitting in place in the groove, & you can see it shrinking back into correct size & shape. The heat-gun also makes the fluid thinner & it flows out quicker. It goes thick again once it cools. I had to re-do my clutch and remove some fluid because it was staying engaged, I drained it but left all the surfaces wet with fluid, then added only 20mil of extra fluid, which is about half of what I had in it originally & it works now.
Enjoyed your video. It is clear that you intend to help others with the information you provide. I did have a thought about the "theory of operation" that occurred to me as I watched the video. It would seem more likely that the Bi-Metal spring plate (on the front of the fan clutch) causes the Silicone Fluid Valve to rest in a "Normally Open" state when the cooling system is below operating temperature. As the Bi-Metal spring plate's temperature increases (due to the hot air exiting the radiator) it flexes, thus causing the Silicone Fluid Valve to close. Bear with me for a moment, as I explain why this would seem likely. When the Silicone Fluid Valve is open, there is a flow-path for the fluid to circulate, and no fluid "build up" can occur due to centrifugal force. However, when the Silicone Fluid Valve closes (as engine temperature rises) free fluid flow is prevented, and a "fluid build up" begins to form at the outer circumference of the impeller disc. This fluid build up increases the drag on the impeller, due to the high viscosity of the silicone fluid; and the clutch coupling begins to operate in a relatively "locked" mode, and subsequently, the Cooling Fan is then driven by the engine via the drive pulley. While this seems likely to me, I have not researched to verify the exact details of operation. I mention this, because the actual volume of silicone fluid may not be as critical as you had thought. If the Silicone Fluid Valve is indeed "normally open" at lower temperatures; then the resulting open-flow path would prevent clutch lock-up (regardless of fluid volume). Thanks. Marshall
Almost correct. When the fan is cold, the valve is actually CLOSED, so all the fluid ends up in the reservoir (none on the clutch) so the fan can freewheel. As the fan warms up the valve opens and fluid is fed into he clutch disc causing viscous drag and engaging the clutch. Volume is somewhat critical since you want enough fluid to engage the fan, but not too much where the reservoir would overflow and cause the fan to run all the time :)
Yes, you are absolutely correct! I was curious to know more about the exact operation, so I researched it further. As you stated; the viscous coupling is "disengaged" when the bi-metal plate is closed (cooling system cold). Centrifugal force causes the fluid to exit the clutch surfaces and to be stored in the fluid reservoir. As the temperature rises, you were correct in stating that the fluid enters the clutch surfaces via the "open fluid valve" and the friction coefficient causes the "engagement" of the fan clutch, and the cooling fan is driven. Thanks for your video!
Funny I never ever thought this was how clutch fans worked. Pretty impressive. I bought OEM FOMOCO nose first gen 7.3 fan clutches to use on my cummins to eliminate the electric fan clutch. I had to pay 600 bucks for them. I hope I can take them apart to keep them fresh.
I think you potentially underfilled it: It can be filled such that it is below the center hole WHEN SPINNING; meaning the annular cavity is filled, but not up to the center hole (while SPINNING). {The reservoir can be filled, less the volume of the center 'hole'). Think of a doughnut, or 'CD' shaped reservoir... As far as it running out when off, that happens anyway: Referencing other info out there, it is demonstrated that the fan is engaged at cold start, and then pumps the oil out in less than about 30 seconds, if the thermostatic valve is shut (cold). There is no seal inside, and no check valve in the return, and also, some versions have a secondary clutch feed that is always open, so they all drain back when off... This is normal. Now, as to viscosity; Your 'Anti-Friction' would be my last choice - you WANT friction... (but I supposed they are referring to the sliding forks). Also, I realize that too thin an oil will produce excess heating (or underfilled), due to the slippage. Explanation: A free-wheeling fan (engine spinning, fan stopped), creates no heat (no work done); A locked-in clutch (fan and engine same rpm), creates no heat (no work done). But if the fan is turning at half engine speed, there will be lots of heat generated (fan RPM x force of fan rotation at that speed). I don't know if that slippage heating would peak at 1/2 input speed, or some square or cube fluid dynamics formula; or if it would be significant in real-world operation... Maybe some ME graduate can clarify... Mr K L
It is not the friction of the fan so much as the heat generated by the ambient air (radiator-hot) that effects it Also the volume of the oil will be greater when hit than it is at room temp
Viscous fans are a bit like carburettors...relics of a past age. Replaced lots back in the 80's and early 90's but never bothered to have a look inside. Thanks Ivan!
@@alabastardmasterson exactly. The 2022 Dodge Ram trucks, GM trucks and SUVs and almost all new heavy/large goods vehicles have them. Modern ones have electronic valves controlled by PWM from the engine ecu. Just because transverse mounted engines are more popular in light duty runabouts doesn't mean that longitudinal engines and their viscous fans have gone the way of the carburettor.
That was cool ! Always understood the principal of their operation, but I must admit never took one apart! Leave it to you Ivan! LOL! great vid! Keep e'm coming!
Depends on model. But the principle is absolutely true: fill the reservoire in the front (valve side) half - and DO NOT flood the whole clutch cavity. Deep knowledge and nice explanation!
Hey man great video, my dakota 4.7 and most newer dakotas fan are so loud at start up and most of the time. Do you think is caus they come with too mucho oil from factory? Thanks in advance man.
Mine spins with a little resistance when cold and engine off which I believe is correct. Problem is when engine on I never hear anything when it engages or disengages. Just watching and listening while running all seems same. So I don’t know if it is working or not. I don’t have any cooling issues. When it is disengaged should the blades be turning very slow?
I’d imagine that would be somewhat sensitive to heat and would have to be replaced with time as well but I’m a moron so take that with a grain of salt.
I would like to see the result of this, I mean instaled and running because I did the repair but I filled all the chamber in both sides and the result is almost totally attached to the axle all the time. I used 7500 cst silicone oil in a sportage turbo diesel. Thanks
Just took my ranger apart and the oil is like thick honey how do you know if the little peg is worn or not from what I can see it scrapes and collects the the oil like a scraper I don't think mine is scraping the oil up
I have some kind of a problem - my fan clutch rotates with some resistance, like always, but couple a days ago I noticed that my temp a little bit higher than normal in traffic, but when i cruising around temp drops to normal, and then I noticed that my fan clutch does not engage on cold start, also i cover the radiator and try to reach engaging temp - fan clutch still not engage.. so i guess liquid is here but my valve stuck close? And do the fan clutch engaging smoothly during the temp rises or its just lock and unlock?
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I was thinking the center reservoir hole closes @ times so fluid location is always either here or there but thanks I guess that's probable👍
I would think the reservoir needs to be fully filled because most fans run full speed upon startup and then 10-15 seconds later is slows back down which verifies your theory about when the vehicle is off it'll pour out.
+motoYam82. I think WD-40 works better than anything for unfreezing stuck bolts. But I am from California. And for cleaning electrical connections. Spray a little and plug in and out a few times. Bingo, no resistance. Well actually very low resistance, because there r no perfect insulators and no perfect conductors. Right?
No, but over some rpm's you might get fan blade failure. Those big fans aren't supposed to have all that torque/speed. The fan clutch also works as some kind of rpm limiter for the fan.
I think you should spread the whole bottole its only 8 ml pack i bought it from toyota one pack for rebiulding clutch fan not tiny this will not work in hot weather
I have a jeep comander ,the fan was very loud ,somebody told me that it was bad so I bought a new one from the dealer but it is making the same noise when cool in the mornings .When the jeep was new never make the noise.what can be the problem.Thank you for your videos I have whatched all of them.
+Carlos Dorantes Is the fan thermally actuated like the one here, or does it have an electrical connection? How long does the fan stay on on cool mornings?
+Carlos Dorantes I have seen the thermal spring turn the valve too far back one way so the fan actually stays on when it's really cold haha! This happened on a brand new fan clutch on my Mazda MPV years ago. Had to install an internal stop to prevent that from happening. What year and engine is your Commander? Anything on the forums?
Michael Bisk not all of em are that cheap, one for my truck cost $100 plus unless I buy the cheap aftermarket crap with bad reviews, people saying they stay locked in all the time.
I used the aftermarkets and they work fine. Look here: www.macautoparts.net/fan-clutches. Rock auto is also one of the best sources for aftermarket parts.
Usually why fan clutches go bad is the fluid leaks out, and it quits working. So for a Saturday afternoon and a few dollars, it's money saved. I've done this to just about every vehicle I've owned
dude where did you buy the kyosho 5000 sil silicone oil.. thats what i need exactly for refilling my fan coupling... but here toyota dealer sucks ... where did you buy it? in what kind of shop? suspension shop?bike shop?
I had an after market, broken down fan clutch replaced on my '87 caprice classic in 2003. my mechanic said he was able to find a gm clutch to install...from day one, it is meshed with the engine when cold and as you drive down the road, it lets go and then cycles as needed. it roars so loudly, you can't not hear me coming. It has always done it and I always figured it was normal. is it? I've heard this happen on the odd other gm product. I also realize there are different clutch fans for different applications.
some were made by eaton some were made by delco...the old type roar when cold,,,thats normal....then delco came out with a silent fan clutch ..i have one on my 92 k1500...but my 79 caprice has the old type.....
@@Monza62000 ahh nice. Something to be said about the old type and older technology...my.2016 Tacoma still has an old school clutch fan, albeit quieter than my caprice obviously...
the fluid is correct depending of the cc of the engine could be from 3000 cst to 6000 cst and usually the capacity depending of the cc of the engine is 25cc, so you did good bro,,, please man asnwer my doubt about where to get that kyosho oil, in what kind of shop did you buy it
1st, if it looks like it's been leaking. 2nd, if the fan always freewheels, & never engages causing engine overheating, and/or poor A/C performance coupled with high head pressure due to lack of airflow across radiator & condenser.
If you can stop the rotating fan on a hot working engine with, say, tightly rolled newspaper - the clutch needs repair/replacement. BE CAREFUL DOING THIS!
A variance of fluid amount as small as 2 CC's can affect the drive RPM. Not worth the risk of burning am engine to save less than $50 IMO. Just go buy a Hayden at the local parts house and be done.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics ya I hear that, I don’t blame you, however sooner or later you will have to with rad hoses etc - there is no doubt much frustration caused by aftermarket stuff
+Rodrigo Sagebin I don't think so. The silicone oil is designed not to change viscosity much with temperature. Most oils tend to get thin at high temps, so the fan wouldn't engage properly...
I didn't take that into account, thanks. I'm currently working on an 03 Subaru Outback h6 with a VDC A/T. -- It's shifting weird. Any advice would be much appreciated. All the best and congrats on the channel.
Silicone oil, the RC shops have them, (for shock absorbers) or order it from your car dealer. Toyota sells it AFAIK. The 10000cts variety usually does the trick, in warmer areas you might up it.
Considering brake fluid will eat paint, and the whole reason you’re refilling the fluid is because the old fluid leaked out.... I’m thinking brake fluid getting spun out and sprayed onto your hood paint would be a bad idea.
No, it is the viscosity of the oil that matters. It is the bi-metal spring that expands and contracts to open or close the valve for the fluid to go out inorder to lock and unlock the clutch.
Although this is an interesting concept I would question the real world application of refilling viscous clutches as a viable repair. Firstly how do you know how much or what fluid to use? Secondly what part failed in the original fan clutch that allowed the original fluid to leak out? Thirdly who’s to say that other components in the fan clutch won’t also fail, such as the valve seizing or spring breaking/sticking? All in all personally for my truck I can buy a Hayden fan clutch for $40 on rock auto and know that I’ve got a brand new part that’s a bit more confidence inspiring. I like this as a mental exercise but I feel like it’s comparable to a guide on cleaning mini blinds rather than step 1- buy new mini blinds for $5 at Lowe’s. Hey if your truck’s fan clutch is unavailable or super expensive then go for it but I think it would be more practical for most people to simply buy a new part. ☺️
@@alabastardmasterson I mean you could refute any of the rather valid points I made, but on the other hand it’s far richer to have you insinuate I’m an idiot and then proceed to misspell mental as metal. Have a cookie troll.
@@Penguin545 so you already know oil loses viscosity especially when subjected to cavitation induced by centrifugal force pushing the oil through small openings?
+motoYam82 I've considered using some Bardahl No Smoke fluid. That stuff is super thick, but I'm not sure if it maintains its viscosity when it gets heated. I know that silicone has low thermal conductivity and so it will remain the same viscosity whether the engine is hot or cold.
First vid I seen like this,nice. Ok since the fan will work properly will it destroy that POS water pump that should have been changed , LOL , JK . Ok Ivan , test light , PCM smoke show debate. Buddys a tech not from Avoca , way better ha and he told me he smoked a pcm with his test light testing the ground side . Thing he said done it was he had put a battery charger on the dead battery and when he attached his lead to the pos post it sent about 17 v downstream. Now he's telling me the high voltage and not the amperage will take out a driver. Not sure and wanted to run this one by you. If it is true that demands we make sure you test for too high a voltage prior to testing with a test light and an overcharging battery charger , he says even an initial spike over 16v will do it. What do you think ?
+Steve Rob LOL ya got me there Steve! Well if you're using a POS battery charger than you are asking for trouble!! Not the test light's fault :) So what "ground side" was he testing again? If you apply 17V to the gate of a transistor driver that is designed to operate at 14.5V, that base current will be 20% higher...so maybe it wasn't the test light that did the damage, but turning the driver on while the system voltage was too high...would need a schematic to do any detailed analysis though.
motoYam82 Ok Ivan, it is something you only do once if you can even catch what you did as in testing with too high a voltage . Im just curious about transistor design and the possibility of even static voltage also doing damage. Interesting stuff, ok maybe just for me but I love this stuff and the example was fluky at best and I believe he was testing a GM vent solenoid . How many people never check their dmm and constantly take bad reading , happens especially on RUclips by Micro biologists HAHA Just encase our buddy is reading the comments LOL
Cheers Mate, I followed your video and drained, cleaned & refilled the fan clutch in my Mitsubishi Triton/L200 with 10,000Cst silicone oil which I got from a hobby shop. They stock it because people put it in their remote controlled car differentials. $10.00 bucks a bottle & it Woks great.
My fan was totally screwed up and was working the opposite to how it should, it was loose when hot & tight when cold but this fixed it.
Also how does the sealed clutch end up getting tiny pieces of dirt in it? That has got me bamboozled.
Another tip for you people: If the o-ring is stretched or flattened (or both), just boil it in water for 10 minutes & it reverts back to shape. It's still a little bigger than the grove but at least you can massage it back into place easily. It's probably a good idea to boil it even if it isn't stretched because it goes back to the correct shape & "as new" thickness. EDIT: I discovered an even quicker method. If you heat the O-Ring with a heat gun while you have it sitting in place in the groove, & you can see it shrinking back into correct size & shape. The heat-gun also makes the fluid thinner & it flows out quicker. It goes thick again once it cools.
I had to re-do my clutch and remove some fluid because it was staying engaged, I drained it but left all the surfaces wet with fluid, then added only 20mil of extra fluid, which is about half of what I had in it originally & it works now.
Very nice!
Enjoyed your video. It is clear that you intend to help others with the information you provide.
I did have a thought about the "theory of operation" that occurred to me as I watched the video.
It would seem more likely that the Bi-Metal spring plate (on the front of the fan clutch) causes the Silicone Fluid Valve to rest in a "Normally Open" state when the cooling system is below operating temperature. As the Bi-Metal spring plate's temperature increases (due to the hot air exiting the radiator) it flexes, thus causing the Silicone Fluid Valve to close.
Bear with me for a moment, as I explain why this would seem likely.
When the Silicone Fluid Valve is open, there is a flow-path for the fluid to circulate, and no fluid "build up" can occur due to centrifugal force.
However, when the Silicone Fluid Valve closes (as engine temperature rises) free fluid flow is prevented, and a "fluid build up" begins to form at the outer circumference of the impeller disc.
This fluid build up increases the drag on the impeller, due to the high viscosity of the silicone fluid; and the clutch coupling begins to operate in a relatively "locked" mode, and subsequently, the Cooling Fan is then driven by the engine via the drive pulley.
While this seems likely to me, I have not researched to verify the exact details of operation.
I mention this, because the actual volume of silicone fluid may not be as critical as you had thought. If the Silicone Fluid Valve is indeed "normally open" at lower temperatures; then the resulting open-flow path would prevent clutch lock-up (regardless of fluid volume).
Thanks.
Marshall
Almost correct. When the fan is cold, the valve is actually CLOSED, so all the fluid ends up in the reservoir (none on the clutch) so the fan can freewheel. As the fan warms up the valve opens and fluid is fed into he clutch disc causing viscous drag and engaging the clutch. Volume is somewhat critical since you want enough fluid to engage the fan, but not too much where the reservoir would overflow and cause the fan to run all the time :)
Yes, you are absolutely correct!
I was curious to know more about the exact operation, so I researched it further.
As you stated; the viscous coupling is "disengaged" when the bi-metal plate is closed (cooling system cold).
Centrifugal force causes the fluid to exit the clutch surfaces and to be stored in the fluid reservoir.
As the temperature rises, you were correct in stating that the fluid enters the clutch surfaces via the "open fluid valve" and the friction coefficient causes the "engagement" of the fan clutch, and the cooling fan is driven.
Thanks for your video!
Very, very good video and explanation 20 year mechanic and you learn something new everyday. Great presentation and patience.
Funny I never ever thought this was how clutch fans worked. Pretty impressive.
I bought OEM FOMOCO nose first gen 7.3 fan clutches to use on my cummins to eliminate the electric fan clutch. I had to pay 600 bucks for them. I hope I can take them apart to keep them fresh.
I think you potentially underfilled it:
It can be filled such that it is below the center hole WHEN SPINNING; meaning the annular cavity is filled, but not up to the center hole (while SPINNING).
{The reservoir can be filled, less the volume of the center 'hole').
Think of a doughnut, or 'CD' shaped reservoir...
As far as it running out when off, that happens anyway:
Referencing other info out there, it is demonstrated that the fan is engaged at cold start, and then pumps the oil out in less than about 30 seconds, if the thermostatic valve is shut (cold).
There is no seal inside, and no check valve in the return, and also, some versions have a secondary clutch feed that is always open, so they all drain back when off...
This is normal.
Now, as to viscosity;
Your 'Anti-Friction' would be my last choice - you WANT friction... (but I supposed they are referring to the sliding forks).
Also, I realize that too thin an oil will produce excess heating (or underfilled), due to the slippage.
Explanation:
A free-wheeling fan (engine spinning, fan stopped), creates no heat (no work done);
A locked-in clutch (fan and engine same rpm), creates no heat (no work done).
But if the fan is turning at half engine speed, there will be lots of heat generated (fan RPM x force of fan rotation at that speed).
I don't know if that slippage heating would peak at 1/2 input speed, or some square or cube fluid dynamics formula; or if it would be significant in real-world operation...
Maybe some ME graduate can clarify...
Mr K L
It is not the friction of the fan so much as the heat generated by the ambient air (radiator-hot) that effects it
Also the volume of the oil will be greater when hit than it is at room temp
Thanks for this video man. I'm not able to get a replacement new clutch for my truck (too old) so will definitely be giving this repair a go!
Should work great as long as fluid loss is the only issue. The fan clutch in this video is still going strong 6 years later 💪🙂
Viscous fans are a bit like carburettors...relics of a past age. Replaced lots back in the 80's and early 90's but never bothered to have a look inside. Thanks Ivan!
yep back in the 80s i put many an electric fan kit on (with a manual bypass switch)
6yrs ago and I bet you're still wrong
@@alabastardmasterson exactly. The 2022 Dodge Ram trucks, GM trucks and SUVs and almost all new heavy/large goods vehicles have them. Modern ones have electronic valves controlled by PWM from the engine ecu. Just because transverse mounted engines are more popular in light duty runabouts doesn't mean that longitudinal engines and their viscous fans have gone the way of the carburettor.
No test footage or noted anomalies if any ? If this fluid was thicker was there additional fan noise with more torque over them OEM fluid?
That was cool ! Always understood the principal of their operation, but I must admit never took one apart! Leave it to you Ivan! LOL! great vid! Keep e'm coming!
enjoyed the video, I have never taken a fan clutch apart so I was interested in seeing the internals.
so from my understanding it works somewhat like an automatic tranny car's torque converter with the liquid coupling sort of thing?
Yup, same idea.
Excellent video, I would have never though to refill the clutch
Thanks for the explanation on the clutch fan, I learned something.
Good job with the walk through and the theory and function...
how'd you know you put exact amount of silicone and not too much? too much silicone will make the engine noisy right?
I have a fan like this on my 96 Dodge Ram 2500. Always wondered how it works. Now, thanks to Ivan, I know. Cool video! ty man.
last of this video. did you ever find out how much fluid was required. Furthermore, did you have the right product and the correct amount.
Depends on model. But the principle is absolutely true: fill the reservoire in the front (valve side) half - and DO NOT flood the whole clutch cavity. Deep knowledge and nice explanation!
Hey man great video, my dakota 4.7 and most newer dakotas fan are so loud at start up and most of the time. Do you think is caus they come with too mucho oil from factory? Thanks in advance man.
Mine spins with a little resistance when cold and engine off which I believe is correct. Problem is when engine on I never hear anything when it engages or disengages. Just watching and listening while running all seems same. So I don’t know if it is working or not. I don’t have any cooling issues. When it is disengaged should the blades be turning very slow?
Excellent explanation;
Why can't it be used a thick motor oil ,20w-50 or gear oil, 80 or 90, anyone knows? Thanks.
I’d imagine that would be somewhat sensitive to heat and would have to be replaced with time as well but I’m a moron so take that with a grain of salt.
I bought silicone oil in little clear packets from the Toyota dealer directly. Wasn't very expensive.
I would like to see the result of this, I mean instaled and running because I did the repair but I filled all the chamber in both sides and the result is almost totally attached to the axle all the time. I used 7500 cst silicone oil in a sportage turbo diesel. Thanks
Sounds like you overfilled it. Fill one reservoir only, as I show here.
Just took my ranger apart and the oil is like thick honey how do you know if the little peg is worn or not from what I can see it scrapes and collects the the oil like a scraper I don't think mine is scraping the oil up
Wonder if you could use lucas oil stabiliser. Its oil based but is as thick as honey.
Thanks, I always wondered how those fan clutches work.
I have some kind of a problem - my fan clutch rotates with some resistance, like always, but couple a days ago I noticed that my temp a little bit higher than normal in traffic, but when i cruising around temp drops to normal, and then I noticed that my fan clutch does not engage on cold start, also i cover the radiator and try to reach engaging temp - fan clutch still not engage.. so i guess liquid is here but my valve stuck close? And do the fan clutch engaging smoothly during the temp rises or its just lock and unlock?
I don't know why you would put in any other fluid besides the actual proper fluid into the fan clutch in the first place. That's insane.
That is absolutely one thing about Japanese cars. Just a few tool sizes and a butter knife to takethe whole car apart
It’s a sushi knife
great, you skipped the most important part and edited it out of the video, how to pry it open :o/
That would vary with different types of fans, find the joint and separate the 2 halves with a thin blade etc
You can use rc model vehicle diff fluid, it's the same stuff, 6000.
Thanks for the video..i learn smthg new here...i been doing this a couple of times..but the way i doing it by refill both side of the fan...
Thanks mate, first time seeing this.
Curious if you filled the reservoir entirely; how would it function, good or bad?
@@dmironyuk fan would be stuck ON lol
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I was thinking the center reservoir hole closes @ times so fluid location is always either here or there but thanks I guess that's probable👍
I would think the reservoir needs to be fully filled because most fans run full speed upon startup and then 10-15 seconds later is slows back down which verifies your theory about when the vehicle is off it'll pour out.
Couldn't you have used "Brake Cleaner". to clean the fan clutch?
+Upallnight Dang it! Another missed opportunity! I think WD-40 should be my trademark just like Brake Cleaner is for Eric O. lol
+motoYam82. I think WD-40 works better than anything for unfreezing stuck bolts. But I am from California. And for cleaning electrical connections. Spray a little and plug in and out a few times. Bingo, no resistance. Well actually very low resistance, because there r no perfect insulators and no perfect conductors. Right?
@billrimmer I would recommend using WD-40 contact cleaner for your electrical connections, not the WD-40 lubricant seen in this video
you have never used inox if you think wd40 is good
This isn't South Main auto! ;)
Can you pl share rhe viscocity of Viscous oil
Great video Ivan. Nice work
Dude thx for the video. We would REALLY have appreciated knowing whether your service was effective or not..😒
Why would you have to change the fluid in the fan clutch?? I had a Chevy w 252,000 miles on it and it worked great.
o-ring went bad and it all sprayed out lol
I see.
what is the average interval for fluid replacement, since the viscosity will reduce over time?
Most manufacturer recommendations are 10 year or 100,000 miles. Use synthetic. Im on my 3rd fluid change and almost at 400,000 miles on my Land Rover
Hi, i have the one with the spiral, does it also use viscuse fluid? How much i need to put in it?
Thanks, vou reparar a minha embreagem viscosa, L200 2.5 2006.
Great video, excellent explanation!
If you have to refill it, that means it is leaking on its seal, and has to be replaced anyway
What happens if I bore it and fix the fan tide to the axe? Would this solution destroy the belt?
No, but over some rpm's you might get fan blade failure. Those big fans aren't supposed to have all that torque/speed. The fan clutch also works as some kind of rpm limiter for the fan.
Kyosho silicone oil ment for rc car shocks and gearboxes
I think you should spread the whole bottole its only 8 ml pack i bought it from toyota one pack for rebiulding clutch fan not tiny this will not work in hot weather
Do u think it work with that friction oil, like atf... Or has to be silicon?
The oil must be of ca.10 000 sst viscosity...
Thanks, work like charm for me
Good Video and Info for sure :), THANK YOU !!!
I have a jeep comander ,the fan was very loud ,somebody told me that it was bad so I bought a new one from the dealer but it is making the same noise when cool in the mornings .When the jeep was new never make the noise.what can be the problem.Thank you for your videos I have whatched all of them.
+Carlos Dorantes Is the fan thermally actuated like the one here, or does it have an electrical connection? How long does the fan stay on on cool mornings?
+motoYam82 Is like the one you you rebuild here and stay loud for like 5 minutes .
+Carlos Dorantes I have seen the thermal spring turn the valve too far back one way so the fan actually stays on when it's really cold haha! This happened on a brand new fan clutch on my Mazda MPV years ago. Had to install an internal stop to prevent that from happening. What year and engine is your Commander? Anything on the forums?
+motoYam82 2007 4,7 liter thank you for your advise.I bough scanner book,I am waiting for yours to come out so I can buy it.thank you again.
Great video Ivan. Now I know what to use.
I worked with a guy who ran self tapping drywall screws through the fan clutch because he was cheap. It lasted a couple of weeks then came apart.
Interesting, as I'm having a bit a trouble with mine I'm gonna check it out see what I can do to fix it. Where did you get the fluid?
Try Amazon or eBay...where all good things come from ;)
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics I'm a heavy Amazon user... Lol.. I'll check there, Thanks.
A new clutch is $ 23.00. Is it worth the time to do all this work?
Michael Bisk not all of em are that cheap, one for my truck cost $100 plus unless I buy the cheap aftermarket crap with bad reviews, people saying they stay locked in all the time.
I used the aftermarkets and they work fine. Look here: www.macautoparts.net/fan-clutches. Rock auto is also one of the best sources for aftermarket parts.
$249 for mine mate. Definitely worth the work...
My viscous fan clutch for my Mercedes is £500.00 plus VAT
Usually why fan clutches go bad is the fluid leaks out, and it quits working. So for a Saturday afternoon and a few dollars, it's money saved. I've done this to just about every vehicle I've owned
dude where did you buy the kyosho 5000 sil silicone oil.. thats what i need exactly for refilling my fan coupling... but here toyota dealer sucks ... where did you buy it? in what kind of shop? suspension shop?bike shop?
ebay has it
estrelladelnorte1308 also hobby store. But the viscosity is vehicle specific so make sure it’s the right viscosity.
Why not buy a new one? Mine for my 03 ram was like 40 bucks
I had an after market, broken down fan clutch replaced on my '87 caprice classic in 2003. my mechanic said he was able to find a gm clutch to install...from day one, it is meshed with the engine when cold and as you drive down the road, it lets go and then cycles as needed. it roars so loudly, you can't not hear me coming. It has always done it and I always figured it was normal. is it? I've heard this happen on the odd other gm product. I also realize there are different clutch fans for different applications.
some were made by eaton some were made by delco...the old type roar when cold,,,thats normal....then delco came out with a silent fan clutch ..i have one on my 92 k1500...but my 79 caprice has the old type.....
@@Monza62000 ahh nice. Something to be said about the old type and older technology...my.2016 Tacoma still has an old school clutch fan, albeit quieter than my caprice obviously...
If it roars when it is cold, and goes away when warm, it is likely working properly
You didnt sound very positive that your chosen fluid type was going to work, Let us know. Im sure it did, just wondering.
+Charles Miller I was unsure not so much of the fluid type, but of the exact quantity. Fan seems to be working great now, so 30cc did the trick!
Fantastic.....Never knew how they worked, now I know a little more then yesterday. So now we have Dr O, and Dr I.
the fluid is correct depending of the cc of the engine could be from 3000 cst to 6000 cst and usually the capacity depending of the cc of the engine is 25cc, so you did good bro,,, please man asnwer my doubt about where to get that kyosho oil, in what kind of shop did you buy it
I found it on Amazon...
Awesome video dude.👍👍👍
$30 new online!
Why would you mass with the old unit?
Go for it! Let me know if the $30 unit works properly for the next 10 years haha
Some cars you can't get new parts either.
sorry I didn’t insert the fragment with the work on the engine
How we can decide that clutch fan needs refilling
1st, if it looks like it's been leaking.
2nd, if the fan always freewheels, & never engages causing engine overheating, and/or poor A/C performance coupled with high head pressure due to lack of airflow across radiator & condenser.
If you can stop the rotating fan on a hot working engine with, say, tightly rolled newspaper - the clutch needs repair/replacement. BE CAREFUL DOING THIS!
@@СеменНакойхер if you return to the house lacking fingers, the fan clutch is OK
I think you need a new O-ring As well
Add a 17 and 19mm for the bigger bolts and you can strip down an entire Japanese car.
Totally agree. I own two Toyotas and can be serviced with those two wrenches
Just like a Jeep, except you need a 15 mm and 18 mm.
All my american crap needs 2 full sets, 1 metric and 1 imperial - some particular components have like 4 different sized fasteners
hi, it really worked? How much it last, in your opinion? thanks for the video
Works good as new :)
Jiz, I'm gonna try then... Just the oil change? I have a Montero and may fan doesn't work anymore. Do u recommend silicone 20000 viscosity?
ya whatever you can find
Используйте пмс 1000, пмс 10000 не используйте тк температура застывания +46градусов, муфта будет постоянно включена.
I cant take mine apart like that...
Why did you cut out prying it open ... its the part I need to see 😐
yea 8 10 12 14 n 15, unless u have to f with suspension or drivetrain
A variance of fluid amount as small as 2 CC's can affect the drive RPM. Not worth the risk of burning am engine to save less than $50 IMO. Just go buy a Hayden at the local parts house and be done.
Fan works perfect more than 2 years later. Not installing aftermarket stuff on my truck.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics ya I hear that, I don’t blame you, however sooner or later you will have to with rad hoses etc - there is no doubt much frustration caused by aftermarket stuff
And did it work?
@@rodbacon9489 still working perfectly to this day!! 😎👌
interesting, who sells that silicone oil Ivan thanks well done.
Sam Rugtiv toyota.
Model shops. They use it in remote control cars
Wonder if Lucas Oil Treatment would have a similar enough consistency. I only ask because I think it's cheaper and available anywhere.
+Rodrigo Sagebin I don't think so. The silicone oil is designed not to change viscosity much with temperature. Most oils tend to get thin at high temps, so the fan wouldn't engage properly...
I didn't take that into account, thanks. I'm currently working on an 03 Subaru Outback h6 with a VDC A/T. -- It's shifting weird. Any advice would be much appreciated. All the best and congrats on the channel.
Spill and fill the tranny with Valvoline MaxLife ATF and also change the tranny filter...
What's the correct name of this oil?.. Need to order it
Silicone oil, the RC shops have them, (for shock absorbers) or order it from your car dealer. Toyota sells it AFAIK. The 10000cts variety usually does the trick, in warmer areas you might up it.
U need to use hydraulic fluid like brake fluid, because that kind of fluid DOES NOT EXPAND in heat
No. Brake fluid will not work in a viscous fan clutch lol
Really are you serious 😁
Considering brake fluid will eat paint, and the whole reason you’re refilling the fluid is because the old fluid leaked out.... I’m thinking brake fluid getting spun out and sprayed onto your hood paint would be a bad idea.
what is the point of changing the oil? my mechanic just told me i need to get a new one so im trying to look into it and am just curious.
Thanks
Does the oil expand with heat??
No, it is the viscosity of the oil that matters. It is the bi-metal spring that expands and contracts to open or close the valve for the fluid to go out inorder to lock and unlock the clutch.
Can I use brake fluid instead of WD40 to clean?
You can, but I would not recommend that lol
Tell me why? @@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
Brake fluid absorbs water instead of repelling it... But I'm not a chemist lol
Once you use wd40 do you air blow it out or does it just evaporate?
@@chrisclark7598 either way will work
Although this is an interesting concept I would question the real world application of refilling viscous clutches as a viable repair. Firstly how do you know how much or what fluid to use? Secondly what part failed in the original fan clutch that allowed the original fluid to leak out? Thirdly who’s to say that other components in the fan clutch won’t also fail, such as the valve seizing or spring breaking/sticking? All in all personally for my truck I can buy a Hayden fan clutch for $40 on rock auto and know that I’ve got a brand new part that’s a bit more confidence inspiring. I like this as a mental exercise but I feel like it’s comparable to a guide on cleaning mini blinds rather than step 1- buy new mini blinds for $5 at Lowe’s. Hey if your truck’s fan clutch is unavailable or super expensive then go for it but I think it would be more practical for most people to simply buy a new part. ☺️
You doing metal exercises is hilarious
@@alabastardmasterson I mean you could refute any of the rather valid points I made, but on the other hand it’s far richer to have you insinuate I’m an idiot and then proceed to misspell mental as metal. Have a cookie troll.
Lol. Why write such a long comment when you don't have a clue what you're talking about, other than to feign knowledgeable
@@alabastardmasterson 13 years as an Auto tech but sure why not
@@Penguin545 so you already know oil loses viscosity especially when subjected to cavitation induced by centrifugal force pushing the oil through small openings?
Dude, do you know the dimensions of that red O-ring? :D
130Х2 mm :D on Mitsubishi Pajero - Montero Sport - Challenger 2.5 4D56.
4D56...the most shitty engine ever made by shitsubishi.
It's been in production for over 35 years. Still in production today. Pretty good for a shitty engine.
what is the symptoms to change the silicon oil?
+Raju Yadav Fan not engaging and vehicle overheating on long climbs/in town.
+motoYam82 I've considered using some Bardahl No Smoke fluid. That stuff is super thick, but I'm not sure if it maintains its viscosity when it gets heated. I know that silicone has low thermal conductivity and so it will remain the same viscosity whether the engine is hot or cold.
Brittany Wright
Yeah I've tried anything from gear oil to shock fluid...silicone oil is the only thing that seems to work as intended :)
@Rollo Larson The oil must be of ca.10 000 sst viscosity. It's called Polymetylsiloxane fluide.
has anybody put electric fans on these?
how to remove and refill on bmw?
Spraying WD-40 around your lap top.?
keeps the keyboard clean and shiny lol...but watch out for the brake clean, that stuff is nasty!
No 13 mm?
First vid I seen like this,nice. Ok since the fan will work properly will it destroy that POS water pump that should have been changed , LOL , JK . Ok Ivan , test light , PCM smoke show debate. Buddys a tech not from Avoca , way better ha and he told me he smoked a pcm with his test light testing the ground side . Thing he said done it was he had put a battery charger on the dead battery and when he attached his lead to the pos post it sent about 17 v downstream. Now he's telling me the high voltage and not the amperage will take out a driver. Not sure and wanted to run this one by you. If it is true that demands we make sure you test for too high a voltage prior to testing with a test light and an overcharging battery charger , he says even an initial spike over 16v will do it. What do you think ?
+Steve Rob LOL ya got me there Steve!
Well if you're using a POS battery charger than you are asking for trouble!! Not the test light's fault :) So what "ground side" was he testing again? If you apply 17V to the gate of a transistor driver that is designed to operate at 14.5V, that base current will be 20% higher...so maybe it wasn't the test light that did the damage, but turning the driver on while the system voltage was too high...would need a schematic to do any detailed analysis though.
I always disconnect the battery before charging
huggybryn39 That's the right way, so do I
motoYam82 Ok Ivan, it is something you only do once if you can even catch what you did as in testing with too high a voltage . Im just curious about transistor design and the possibility of even static voltage also doing damage. Interesting stuff, ok maybe just for me but I love this stuff and the example was fluky at best and I believe he was testing a GM vent solenoid . How many people never check their dmm and constantly take bad reading , happens especially on RUclips by Micro biologists HAHA Just encase our buddy is reading the comments LOL
@@huggybryn39 same here, my Dad told me that years ago so I always have
So if that "hole" gets plugged up the fan never freewheels? or is there other reasons for said symptom of if never freewheeling....
+510Redneck That's a possibility. Also if the mechanical thermal strip can lose its properties and that internal valve can get stuck open...
Не могли бы вы это рассказать на Русском? Очень интересно.
Does it still work?
Like a charm!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Cool! My clutch has stuck and I had to buy new one :(.
very very good video
Was the amount of fluid you used sufficient?
Yup still working great!
Shocking photography
u can do this or just buy one on ebay for 30dls
Good luck.
So you basically made a video showing us you made a wild **s guess as to how much fluid to put in.... nice
No, not a "wild ass guess". An EDUCATED guess. Fan works beautifully to this day, so I say that I got it right ;)
If it doesn’t work you have nothing to lose
Better to try and fail, than to fail to try
I've always been told that the fluid inside a fan clutch is highly radioactive.
I'm from Russia so I am immune to radioactivity after surviving Chernobyl xD
It's MSDS labels it as " radioactive panther piss"
And microwave ovens too right ?
@@kellismith4329 There's a lot of good people in West Virginia.
Como se llama el líquido viscoso?...
Leonardo Rosero Kyosho silicone oil.
cool video thx
You guessed how much oil to put in!?
Depends on model. But the principle is absolutely true: fill the reservoire in the front (valve side) half - and DO NOT flood the whole clutch cavity.
🙏 شكرا
Just spilled my whole bottle of Fox Float fluid on the floor tonight dammit!