Valve Seal Replacement 318 Dodge Chrysler Mopar
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Replacing the valve seals on a small block dodge 318. This would be the same for 273 340 360 and even big block Chrysler's. 383 440. This is showing just one seal replacement of the 16 that are in a v8 motor. This particular car is a 1970 Dodge Dart Swinger.
You will need to make sure you have a way to keep the valve from dropping down into the cylinder, we used an air compressor and hose plugged into the cylinder head through each spark plug hole, @ 90 PSI for the corresponding valves. There are other ways to go about keeping the valve from falling, but this is the method we chose.
Be sure to use some shop towels to plug the oil galleys that are in the head, so if you accidentally drop a valve retainer clip, it wont fall down into the motor and become a major job.
Thank you for watching.
I have a 360 that needs valve seals. I feel like I just learned everything I need to know to do this myself. Great video - good pace, clear images, great narration. Thank you.
Thank you for watching. I hope you make it through your valve job with zero issues.
THanks for doing this. I have a 340 that needs this, appreciate you posting the video.
I like the grease tip
Thanks for this. I have a 318 that needs new valve seals, so I found this extremely informative.
This video was very informative. I have been working on valve seals on my 1978 318 for a few days now. The first valve took 3 hours, and I've got it down to 1/2 hour per valve now with some experience and tweaks. Each cylinder is down to about 1 hour now (2 valves) and that includes beer breaks between each valve. Mine is an in-car replacement with heads still on the block. I use 100 pounds of air pressure to hold the valves up.
The tweaks I have tried to speed things up is to compress the spring in two different steps. The first step is to grab the lowest coil of the spring with the spring compressor tool that is open for the longest arm of the tool. You will not be able to get the entire spring compressed at this point. This is step one.The shorter arm on the tool will automatically fall into whatever coil is open enough for it to go into.
Compress the spring in this manner, however your only goal is to compress it enough to get a small blade flat screwdriver slipped under the last coil against the head.
Turn the screwdriver half turn so the last coil lifts up from the head. This will now give you room to slip the long arm of the spring tool under the entire spring. Set the spring compressor tool to get the biggest bite on the spring as you can from bottom up to where the short arm of where the tool falls.
Compress the spring and tighten it as, the tolerance for removing the valve keepers is minimal. It must be tight.
Once the spring is entirely compressed from bottom to top, take a punch and hammer and hit on the rotator (washer on top of the spring) to dislodge the valve keepers. The spring should drop about 1/4 inch after a few whacks. It is at this point that you can attempt to remove the valve keepers. Use a magnet, forceps, or needle nose pliers, whatever will work for you.
Once the keepers are out, lift the spring tool out with the spring still intact and set aside. If you compressed the spring enough for the keeper removal, you should now be able to put the spring back on still in the tool after replacing the seal, and drop in the keepers. Sometimes it takes some hand compression or wiggling to get them to drop back in.
On the 318 there are 2 grooves on the intake valves and 4 grooves on the exhaust valves. The exhaust valves are more difficult as the extra grooves require the keepers to go down deeper on the valve which may require more compression on the spring.
It is nice to have one person working the spring compression tool and a helper working the keepers out and back in.
Just my experience, no warranty, do at your own risk, as the springs are under pressure and can be dangerous using the compression tool.
I posted because this video made things look easier then in my case, so I wanted to share a few tips for the gearheads out there.
Ron Tiemannb so you don't need anyone to hold it at top dead center
Hi Ron, Thanks for this useful info. I have 63’ Dodge D100 with 318 Poly. The intake and exhaust seals seem to be different sizes too; however, I see a lot of folks on here using one-size-fits all. Can you help put this one to bed please?
Also, I’m implementing rope trick after finding TDC, inserting rope and backing it down. Intake stem seems supported, but exhaust stem is a little low. Thoughts on improving my rope methodology?
Great vid! I've been putting this off for a few years, but this makes me feel much more at ease with the process. Thanks!
You're welcome my friend. . I'm glad it'll be of some help to you. Thanks for watching.
Thank you sir for this video
You're welcome. I hope it helped .
EXCELLENT video, thank you!!
Great video! Thanks for posting I followed what you suggested and had a great turnout.
Steve Smal that's pretty cool! I'm really happy this video helped out a few people.. You're welcome my friend!
Do you know how tight the roller arm has to be? I tighened it as much as I could using 3/8 ratchet and extension. But not sure if I should have put a bar on it or go get a torque wrench. Let me know if I should be ok
Steve Smal I would definitely Google the exact torque settings for that.. It's been a long time, I can't remember what we used.
ok thank you so much! super great content. if you are on instagram see my build @exotics440
I found on mine that the Lisle 36050 is perfect for removing keepers, but I really have to hit it hard. I may end up having to re-install with the valve spring compressor tool. As for pushing with weight, I’m 6’1” 290 lbs and no go! Those springs are tight!!
Update: I did have to use the spring compression clamp like the one in your video to put retainer and keepers back on. Lisle a “no go” for me on that step.
No problem, I hope it helps you out . . . .
Very goood clean video cutos to these mechanics this honestly isn't that hard of a job and these guys did a very good job at showing and describing everything
24k plus views that's pretty good mech
if your spring wont drop to grab the clips tap the spring and lightly tap the valve before you compress it its better than hitting the tool cause it doesnt work sometimes
I appreciate it, I do only have 12 psi of vacuum but I don't know what is causing that.
Good job, done this on many LA and B engines, BUT here is my question....what is the process to replace valve stem seals on the OLD poly 318 with the shafts that can only slide out of the pedestals.....I have some ideas, but what do you, or anyone watching this think? Ideas?
Had a shop just quote me 7 hrs and just shy of a grand to do mine on my 86 Ramcharger. Does that seem excessive?
First view, it looks ok.
Second comment; don’t move a valve sealing cap without protection over a naked Valve shaft. This will your sealing lips destroyed immediately.
Hey I gave you your first thumbs up you owe me one !
I think what Lao is saying is there's a protective sleeve that comes with some seals that slips over stems during removal/install (Felpro includes one) ... may not come with all seal kits. Mine has two different style seals for intake and exhaust as well, is that typical ?
thnx a lot i got a 383 4brl in my 72 charger and a spring gave out on me...sucked
Will this work for a 1937 Plymouth Flathead 6 also? I was told that the valve seals may need replacing.
Any advice on the # part number for both intake & exhaust valve seals on a stock 1977 Dodge BB 440? Regular seal or umbrella types? I've not pulled the heads off yet because I'm getting all parts together first. Thanks!
just moved from South Carolina to Colorado just noticed the blue smoke when I cranked it... went away really fast and no blue smoke when revving... valve job and pcv valve getting replaced.. your vid has me at ease with getting it done... where's do you plug in the air at to keep the pressure up in the engine?
One end is coming from a compressor, the other end is plugged into, or "screwed" into the corresponding spark plug hole... You can find that fitting from a compression check tool I belive..... It was my buddies tools, but I think that's what he said.... Or if you're creative, I'm thinking you could make something work from an old spark plug and some ingenuity.... Thank you for watching my video, and I hope it helps you out when the time comes.
Thank you buddy I appreciate it
What tool attaches to compressor hose to spark plug threads
They sell a specific tool for the job.. but, in this case my buddy made his own out of an old spark plug
I've been putting this off for a while on my 71 340 engine. Question for you. Did you go by firing order or did you just change them in another certain order? Let me know! Thanks!!!
I don't remember doing it in any particular order . .Thanks for watching
Where did you get that tool??
Just Google valve spring compressor tool. you can get them almost anywhere, and in many different types.
Thank you for watching.
How did u figure out it was the valve seals I have a truck with a 360 and it runs good it don't smoke when it's idling but if I rev it any it puts out blue smoke but stops when I let off the throttle
Mine would blow a lot of smoke on start up. Then pretty much clear up after a short time. I didn't drive it very often. So it was bad after it sat for a few days.
I feel like you have a seal issue also. But, you should ask someone with a bit more knowledge. on the subject.
Thank you for watching the video. I hope it helps if you do replace them.
@@MechArm1 ya mine did smoke on start up but went away but when I would rev it would blow smoke iv looked all over Google and iv asked people and the say it could be rings or valve seals but all the videos I find on rings shows it smoking all the time mine don't do that but I'm going to order new rings and seals and do them
@@chewy-bu1oy Clanging the rings is an entirely different, way more complicated job. at that point you're disassembling the engine. To some degree. Not an easy, cheap or simple fix. I'd look further into what's involved with that job
@@MechArm1 ya well I'm going to pull the valve covers and do the seals first and if it still smokes after that I'll pull it out and put my backup engine in it so I can rebuild the original engine
@@MechArm1 I took the valve cover off and I have 6 valve seals broke in half and one is gone
I have been trying to dig up the part numbers for the exact valve seals I need for my 318 LA series. I am guessing this is the same set as you used. Do you have the part number or link to the same seals you purchased? It would be very appreciated.
+Jacob Sherritt I really cant remember the exact place I got them. . .I thought it was off Epay. but it wouldn't let me search that far back. .. Sorry my friend . . . . Thank you for watching my video, I hope it will help you.
I have a 1998 dodge Dakota with the 318 and it's doing a strange thing and I'm thinking the seals or something like this could be the problem. it's a Manual and when you press the clutch in to come to a red-light or something instead of the rpms dropping down when you press the clutch they stay the same or raise until I get to a complete stop and then they drop all the way way and tries to die. I've replaced TPS sensor, IAC sensor, and throttle body, spark plugs, wires, I can't figure out what it is.
Ethan Roberts I really don't think the seals are your problem... Could be a vacuum leak or something.... But I'm not sure what advice to give you...
is the 318 a strong motor
They make plenty of power but most importantly they last forever. Around 220 hp and I forgot what torque they push out but I’m pretty sure it’s around 250-280 ft lbs of torque. Overall they are great motors
How much is a spring compressor tool like that?
One like that can be as little as 20 bucks from summit racing, all the way up to a couple hundred bucks..... Thanks for viewing my video... I hope it was helpful..
T
What air compressor psi is safe for this job ?
About 80 psi.. Is what we used...
Thanks for viewing the video.. Good luck with your repairs..
Has anybody ever had a valve fall.
I just bought an air compressor from harbor freight central pneumatic 100psi 1/3 hp 3 gal. Oh
And do you have to leave the air compressor on at all time
Thank you for replying
benito gallegos yes, obviously you want it plugged into the corresponding valve.. If the pressure drops, or fails. The valve will drop.. So be sure to keep it running... (the compressor will cycle on and off.. But not to worry, as it should remain with enough pressure in the tank to compensate... . Assuming it's not a tiny little compressor)
Ok thanks
Im not sure what you're trying to say. . . but ok, thanks
its called a lock not retainer.your compression on the retainer..
Yeah, sorry I miss used the proper names .. .the "retainer" is the flat round one on top of the spring . . ..the "keepers" are the half cylinder shape ones with the grooves that lock everything in place . . . .thanks for watching. .
Too easy after seeing this
No problem, I hope it helps you out .