what a lot of riders don't realize about the racetrack vs the street is the type of pavement. street pavement is designed to last and put up with heavily loaded trucks and such, and only has medium levels of grip. racetrack pavement contains ingredients that allow more grip, and sacrifice longevity.
Also: road quality differs *immensely* based on where you live/ride. Seriously, massive, massive difference whenever I leave my little country for instance :p Our roads are overcrowded as hell and all, but the asphalt quality is, apparently, very good.
I generally use both brakes simultaneously 50/50 initially, but with increasing emphasis on the front as it loads up and gains traction. Then finish on the rear brake for the last couple of yards down to walking pace for a smooth straight stop. Using both brakes increases stopping power and using too much front brake before the weight has shifted onto the front wheel is a hazard in itself.
The physics of dragging your rear brake aren’t unknown to most people. It’s really easy to understand. When you drag your rear brake, it lengthens your wheelbase, and makes it more stable/less twitchy. I drag rear brake a lot. I use my front brakes to stop me almost exclusively, except the last 10-15 mph at an intersection, but I drag rear any time I want a more stable bike. It doesn’t have to be at low speeds. The physics work at all speeds, like countersteering.
Pre-entry to a curve, a bit of pressure on the rear brake helps to hold the chassis “level”, setting up the use of trail-braking, which when applied in a gentle and progressive manner sharpens the steering geometry
I agree. I don't like his philosophy of completely ignoring the rear brake for anything other than slow speed. I use it regularly, with feel, even at speed and going into corners. It works absolute wonders for stabilizing the bike.
When training to break (pun intended) down doors in the Army, one of the big things they always said was "slow is smooth, smooth is fast" and I feel like that applies to motorcycle breaking very well
This applies to all braking, even in cars. Progressive pressure is always best, it's just more forgivable on four wheels. Hence why trail braking exists for both.
Without a linked braking system, you have to use both brake controls to apply both brakes. With a linked brake system, you can use your hand or foot and you'll apply both brakes. Honda Goldwings have a linked brake system from the factory, and it makes sense because those are HEAVY.
Yes, to a certain degree, but CBS doesn't apply both brakes to the same extent regardless of which one you pick. It heavily favors the control you are operating. Proper brake application with both controls is still needed in most cases and this isn't a system designed so any of them can be disregarded under any circumstances.
@@ColtonRMagby well, yes and no. Better would be applying the right amount of force for each brake according to the situation. In fact, in many situations it can be detrimental. When using the front brake heavily the rear wheel has much less grip, so any rear braking there could be problematic, and ultimately cause sliding. It's something that most bikes with CBS has sorted to some degree as they usually have ABS and other systems in place, but it's a solution for a lack in practice and skills, not an improvement per se. And also, in many cases, applying one brake only is exactly what is needed, an option that CBS leaves out of the table.
Absolutely right about not braking in a corner......... Early days on my first bike going hot in an ever tightening bend so grabbed the brakes, bike sat up and went through a garden fence. A painful way to learn.
Great balance of Edu - to - Entertainment ! While I do enjoy the machine-gun sarcasm as entertainment, the Edu can get a bit overlooked in the fuss. Good stuff here, even for experienced riders, as we may well have survived quite well on older and worse habits for a very long time. Learning is forever, but lesson selection determines probable consequences. Keep the good lessons coming...
Great video but my only point of contention is the "If you're riding on the street, don't worry about your rear brake". I've found that's highly dependent on the type of bike. For sport bikes I rarely use rear brake on the street. On cruisers, especially heavier ones, you need to be using the rear brake on the street or else you're leaving stopping distance on the table. I'm sure most of his viewership though are more sport oriented.
Could you make a video on good breathable gear for those of us who live in very very hot areas? I've heard the Dainese Air is really good but I'd love to hear your thoughts on those types of gear.
Maybe not buy a Dainese? I get wanting the best jacket, but if it's that hot, I hope you're talking 120F. There's plenty of breathable wear, my Joe Rocket did fine, still holds up after a slide, hot or cold. Unless you track or commute like a hooligan every which day, I guarantee you're overthinking it, invest the rest in riding pants and boots.
Undersold the rear break for me. Out really does make a difference when you need to slow down quickly. When you are filtering in traffic and need a bit of break out helps with stability so you don't hit a cat iether side
On a sportbike, after the first half second of braking, your back brake does literally nothing. The harder you’re braking, the greater the front bias. Under most heavy braking situations, your rear tire isn’t even on the ground, unless you have rear wheel lift mitigating ABS, and even then, it’s just keeping it on the ground. It isn’t giving you anymore braking power to the rear.
Yes totally get that. I ride an adventure bike on the road so it's a different situation altogether compared to sorts bike riding.@@thagingerninjer5391
you could also make another video, with maybe a little more advanced stuff, explaining the suspension behaviour etc you mentioned sometimes xD that would also help understand more the braking i believe :D
0:57 MOST ARE INDEPENDENT. Some bikes have a 1 caliper up front that is slaved from the rear and the other front caliper is independent. The 79 XS1100 comes to mind.
@@Okurka. Honda dealerships pushed the Grom very hard in my area for about 3 years. I think you're right, it got them into other bigger bikes later from the reports they gave. Honda doing Honda things, lmao.
Yo yammie, you ever been riding your bicycle in high school and start using the front brake and it sends you over the handle bars? I worry about that on my motorcycle.
Soooo is TLDR just: rear brake (edit: and front when straight) when slow, front when fast, don't do dumb sh*t? simple enough. If you just want the bike to straighten up at higher speeds, is there anything wrong with dragging the rear instead of the front for that?
Hey Yammie.... i got to thinking about ABS brakes utilizing a radial brake lever and master cylinder versus an axial setup. If the ABS trigger point is a set value, is there any benefit upgrading to a radial setup since the axial setup trigger point is the same? ABS taking over happens at the same point.... right? I did make the switch, but with the idea of later bypassing ABS. Thoughts?
first thing you need to know, is that the first thing in this video isnt always correct!!!!! linked brakes are a thing, and something that is happening on more and more bikes a lates 90's BMW, there is a chance there is linked brakes on the upper end of their tourers even the yammie fjr1300, beast that it is, has linked brakes, it is important that you know your bike, and features braking mid corner, all for skills, awesome, or you know, use the rears damn it, great way to bleed a touch of speed if you came in a little hot as for the focus on the front brake thing.......man, this isnt the best advice as a while, it is most certainly something that you find on SPORT bikes, but with 20years and over of cruisers, fronts would be used as much as someone on a sport bike would use the rear
9:04 that is actually not at all true. Almost all cruiser motorcycles have a dominant/stronger rear brake, if you only use front brakes on these kind of bikes you’re inviting death towards you.
Braking mid corner is a life saving skill that should be practiced so that when the need arises, we can do it smoothly and safely. Without this skill it would be reckless to corner quickly on the street.
Yeah, that’s definitely a track thing. You want very little time at maintenance throttle on a track, but it’s extremely difficult to ride that aggressively on the street for very long, without coming into the wrong corner with debris in it, and wiping out.
@@scaramouchewbecause it’s not as safe using the front as it is the rear at those speeds. The rear has plenty of power to stop you, but won’t wash out and dump you, like the front will. You want to use the front until the last 10-20 mph, then finish the stop with the rear. If you come to an intersection, and use the front brake, the likelihood of hitting oil or other fluids left behind by leaky vehicles is far greater than if you use the rear.
@@thagingerninjer5391 as long as you brake progressively Washing out the front is very unlikely , i rather be on the front especially when approaching intersections or roundabouts so that i can stop quicker in case of an emergency than being afraid of washing out the front which only happens with abrubt braking which you should never do
@@scaramouchew that’s not at all true. It doesn’t matter if you’re braking progressively, or not. Any amount of front brake at an intersection is dangerous. That’s where oil and gravel collect, and it doesn’t matter how good of a rider you are, if you hit oil or gravel while front braking, you’re going to lose the front. You don’t need braking power below 20. You can stop almost instantly with front or rear, at that point. The front has no advantage, because you don’t have time to transfer weight to the front at those speeds, before you’re already stopped.
how do you handle the throttle while covering the break? i'm twisting and readjusting all the time. i tried watching your hand, but never even noticed your inputs. smooth i guess, but how can i do it?
If you look at recommended gripping of the brake and throttle, instead of the instructed grip method of fisting. Most riders cover the brake with one or two fingers. Also, adjust the brake lever so you can reach it without closing the throttle completely. You can't nor want to be full open throttle when applying the brake.
an abs does not maximize your stopping power. it in fact decreases it. you won´t have to control a slide but you ain´t gonna stop as fast as on raw breakes. you should alway initiate hard high speed breaking with the rear break, so you can apply front way harder, because springs are preloaded and you don´t end up in a stoppie
None of this is true. You stop faster with abs under almost all conditions. You hit the rear brake on a sportbike at 150 mph, and it does literally nothing.
If your coming in hot, and it's too late to jam on the brakes. I know of no other way to gain control of the bike, than to drop a gear and use the clutch to slow the bike with compression braking. Now, this as Yam mentioned, is a more advanced technique. That requires practice on the specific motorcycle and engine configuration your riding. My 1200cc high compression parallel twin, has brutal amounts of engine braking. A 600cc inline 4cyl. that revs to 15,000 rpms. Not so much. There's so many variables that can effect how a motorcycle reacts to engine braking, that it'd be literally impossible to explain it to someone that hasn't ever used it? Bottom line is, if your going too fast to react by braking late. The chances of you being able to downshift and smoothly release the clutch, are slim to none. ALWAYS, be in the "right" gear BEFORE you enter the corner. Then you can use the power of the engine to control the roll out, under the most throttle, as early as possible. Once I'm back on the gas, all fear of balling up has already passed. Staying "ahead" of the next corner, or transition movements in the saddle, that might upset traction. Should all be planned well before they need to be executed. That's why I prefer to ride for no more than 35-45minutes at a time. After that, I'll either slow way down. Or just stop for a burn break of 10min. Get some fluids and a snack.
@@mhoeijI have a broken garden fence that says otherwise when I was going in too fast, grabbed everything, bike sat up and......... Out for a run on a new road, take it easy and next time you can speed up a bit, then next time etc until you find your limit or it finds you!
@@mhoeij Exactly my point when as a newbie, I realised I was in a sharp bend too fast and grabbed the brakes........ bike sits up.... you're not cornering any more! Technically that is practice as I never did it again but it's experience that makes the difference.
![OhGeesy x Lefty Gunplay - What It Iz [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/L0yzW9t2ixk/mqdefault.jpg)
what a lot of riders don't realize about the racetrack vs the street is the type of pavement. street pavement is designed to last and put up with heavily loaded trucks and such, and only has medium levels of grip. racetrack pavement contains ingredients that allow more grip, and sacrifice longevity.
But at the same time you still have to be REALLY pushing to have it negatively impact you.
Also: road quality differs *immensely* based on where you live/ride. Seriously, massive, massive difference whenever I leave my little country for instance :p Our roads are overcrowded as hell and all, but the asphalt quality is, apparently, very good.
@KindOldRaven yeah around me the roads are trash. A good chunk of the highways are genuinely so bad id be afraid to push anywhere past 100 on them.
I generally use both brakes simultaneously 50/50 initially, but with increasing emphasis on the front as it loads up and gains traction. Then finish on the rear brake for the last couple of yards down to walking pace for a smooth straight stop. Using both brakes increases stopping power and using too much front brake before the weight has shifted onto the front wheel is a hazard in itself.
The physics of dragging your rear brake aren’t unknown to most people. It’s really easy to understand. When you drag your rear brake, it lengthens your wheelbase, and makes it more stable/less twitchy. I drag rear brake a lot. I use my front brakes to stop me almost exclusively, except the last 10-15 mph at an intersection, but I drag rear any time I want a more stable bike. It doesn’t have to be at low speeds. The physics work at all speeds, like countersteering.
I'm still amazed at the camera that auto erases the stick
Insta360
It’s pretty great ain’t it?
😂😂😂 I was thinking the exact same thing
If you wrap a cord around it for power, It will also delete that.
it works exactly the same as dead zone in mirrors...
Pre-entry to a curve, a bit of pressure on the rear brake helps to hold the chassis “level”, setting up the use of trail-braking, which when applied in a gentle and progressive manner sharpens the steering geometry
I agree. I don't like his philosophy of completely ignoring the rear brake for anything other than slow speed. I use it regularly, with feel, even at speed and going into corners. It works absolute wonders for stabilizing the bike.
When training to break (pun intended) down doors in the Army, one of the big things they always said was "slow is smooth, smooth is fast" and I feel like that applies to motorcycle breaking very well
they actually say that in the champ school powerpoints
This applies to all braking, even in cars. Progressive pressure is always best, it's just more forgivable on four wheels. Hence why trail braking exists for both.
Love your videos! Just bought 2009 FZ1 with 0 motorcycle experience, 0 dirt bike 0 ATV experience, so far so good!
" so far so good!"
Famous last words...ride safe :)
Just remember that confidence will grow faster than skill.
Beautiful motorcycle. I love the yellow. I just broke my thumb getting rear ended on my bike, but I still want it.
Without a linked braking system, you have to use both brake controls to apply both brakes. With a linked brake system, you can use your hand or foot and you'll apply both brakes. Honda Goldwings have a linked brake system from the factory, and it makes sense because those are HEAVY.
It'll then apply both brakes partially.
Yes, to a certain degree, but CBS doesn't apply both brakes to the same extent regardless of which one you pick. It heavily favors the control you are operating. Proper brake application with both controls is still needed in most cases and this isn't a system designed so any of them can be disregarded under any circumstances.
@@lucascarracedo7421 Still better than only applying one brake alone.
@@ColtonRMagby well, yes and no. Better would be applying the right amount of force for each brake according to the situation. In fact, in many situations it can be detrimental.
When using the front brake heavily the rear wheel has much less grip, so any rear braking there could be problematic, and ultimately cause sliding. It's something that most bikes with CBS has sorted to some degree as they usually have ABS and other systems in place, but it's a solution for a lack in practice and skills, not an improvement per se.
And also, in many cases, applying one brake only is exactly what is needed, an option that CBS leaves out of the table.
@@lucascarracedo7421 Most of those situations are extreme cases.
Absolutely right about not braking in a corner.........
Early days on my first bike going hot in an ever tightening bend so grabbed the brakes, bike sat up and went through a garden fence.
A painful way to learn.
Great balance of Edu - to - Entertainment ! While I do enjoy the machine-gun sarcasm as entertainment, the Edu can get a bit overlooked in the fuss. Good stuff here, even for experienced riders, as we may well have survived quite well on older and worse habits for a very long time. Learning is forever, but lesson selection determines probable consequences. Keep the good lessons coming...
Damn brother went full 101 braking class. Great video! 🔥
Great video but my only point of contention is the "If you're riding on the street, don't worry about your rear brake". I've found that's highly dependent on the type of bike. For sport bikes I rarely use rear brake on the street. On cruisers, especially heavier ones, you need to be using the rear brake on the street or else you're leaving stopping distance on the table. I'm sure most of his viewership though are more sport oriented.
cheers from sunny Greece !!
A T7 lover !!
I’d also add, throttle control helps a lot.
Just bought my first bike 99 sportster 883 for 1800 bucks
Trail braking is so fun
I always switch between front and rear brake when ride on long,steep and twisty downhill road. Dont want to have brake fade because of overheat
I live near the Appalachians and I prefer to trail with the rear brake 🤷🏻♀️ I do slow down ahead of the curve if I feel the need to with both
That bike looks so good with the tail tidy.
Could you make a video on good breathable gear for those of us who live in very very hot areas? I've heard the Dainese Air is really good but I'd love to hear your thoughts on those types of gear.
Maybe not buy a Dainese? I get wanting the best jacket, but if it's that hot, I hope you're talking 120F. There's plenty of breathable wear, my Joe Rocket did fine, still holds up after a slide, hot or cold. Unless you track or commute like a hooligan every which day, I guarantee you're overthinking it, invest the rest in riding pants and boots.
I’ve always been a both brakes kinda guy. Just a little light dash of rear though
Undersold the rear break for me. Out really does make a difference when you need to slow down quickly. When you are filtering in traffic and need a bit of break out helps with stability so you don't hit a cat iether side
Low speed braking is different from high speed braking and you use it differently
@@michaelsloane1034 try using front breaks on bad roads with loose surface.
On a sportbike, after the first half second of braking, your back brake does literally nothing. The harder you’re braking, the greater the front bias. Under most heavy braking situations, your rear tire isn’t even on the ground, unless you have rear wheel lift mitigating ABS, and even then, it’s just keeping it on the ground. It isn’t giving you anymore braking power to the rear.
Yes totally get that. I ride an adventure bike on the road so it's a different situation altogether compared to sorts bike riding.@@thagingerninjer5391
you could also make another video, with maybe a little more advanced stuff, explaining the suspension behaviour etc you mentioned sometimes xD that would also help understand more the braking i believe :D
That first shot looked exactly like a cyclecruza video
0:57 MOST ARE INDEPENDENT. Some bikes have a 1 caliper up front that is slaved from the rear and the other front caliper is independent.
The 79 XS1100 comes to mind.
If you "french fry" when you should "pizza". . .you're gonna have a bad time.
Except Honda VFRs with a linked brake system
Even a Grom has a linked brake system.
VFR solidarity!
@@Okurka.do they? That’s really weird of them to do imo.
The dirt 250, the 300s, and the 500s don’t do it. I wonder why they’d choose that.
@@scubarubanzaii Because inexperienced riders would choose a Grom over a dirt bike, I guess.
@@Okurka. Honda dealerships pushed the Grom very hard in my area for about 3 years. I think you're right, it got them into other bigger bikes later from the reports they gave. Honda doing Honda things, lmao.
What is that in the background up on the cliff? A house or actual castle?!
How to brake on a Harley with no abs: Lil front. Lil rear. Engine decel. All together now 🎶
Yo yammie, you ever been riding your bicycle in high school and start using the front brake and it sends you over the handle bars? I worry about that on my motorcycle.
It can definitely happen on a motorcycle. You just have to practice emergency braking enough to know what the limit is.
Soooo is TLDR just: rear brake (edit: and front when straight) when slow, front when fast, don't do dumb sh*t? simple enough. If you just want the bike to straighten up at higher speeds, is there anything wrong with dragging the rear instead of the front for that?
What are your thoughts on the GSXR 750???
About 250 short
Hey Yammie.... i got to thinking about ABS brakes utilizing a radial brake lever and master cylinder versus an axial setup. If the ABS trigger point is a set value, is there any benefit upgrading to a radial setup since the axial setup trigger point is the same? ABS taking over happens at the same point.... right? I did make the switch, but with the idea of later bypassing ABS. Thoughts?
first thing you need to know,
is that the first thing in this video isnt always correct!!!!! linked brakes are a thing, and something that is happening on more and more bikes
a lates 90's BMW, there is a chance there is linked brakes on the upper end of their tourers
even the yammie fjr1300, beast that it is, has linked brakes, it is important that you know your bike, and features
braking mid corner, all for skills, awesome, or you know, use the rears damn it, great way to bleed a touch of speed if you came in a little hot
as for the focus on the front brake thing.......man, this isnt the best advice as a while, it is most certainly something that you find on SPORT bikes, but with 20years and over of cruisers, fronts would be used as much as someone on a sport bike would use the rear
9:04 that is actually not at all true. Almost all cruiser motorcycles have a dominant/stronger rear brake, if you only use front brakes on these kind of bikes you’re inviting death towards you.
@yammienoob do me a flavor.... do a STOPPIE with the ABS on
Most sportbikes with abs have rear wheel lift mitigation, so you can’t. That’s the case with my 21 cbr1000rr.
Braking mid corner is a life saving skill that should be practiced so that when the need arises, we can do it smoothly and safely.
Without this skill it would be reckless to corner quickly on the street.
What would happen if front or rear lever were both 100% control of both brakes that would be split 50-50?
cars have a proportion valve for 70%front and 30% rear brakes, if higher they would lock up every time you brake hard.
It would lock your rear up every time you brake hard.
nice vid
I heard a young man say one time, if you're not on the gas you should be on the brakes. So I got comfortable with the brakes and that's how I roll
I could see that on a race track but that seems very aggressive for street
Yeah, that’s definitely a track thing. You want very little time at maintenance throttle on a track, but it’s extremely difficult to ride that aggressively on the street for very long, without coming into the wrong corner with debris in it, and wiping out.
Lifehack: just ride an old thumper single cylinder 600ccs and up so u never have to use brakes at all🤣
I usually say 20+ mph use front brakes, anything less that 20 mph i use the rear brakes
Why would you .. the most braking power is still in the front lel
@@scaramouchewbecause it’s not as safe using the front as it is the rear at those speeds. The rear has plenty of power to stop you, but won’t wash out and dump you, like the front will. You want to use the front until the last 10-20 mph, then finish the stop with the rear. If you come to an intersection, and use the front brake, the likelihood of hitting oil or other fluids left behind by leaky vehicles is far greater than if you use the rear.
@@thagingerninjer5391 as long as you brake progressively Washing out the front is very unlikely , i rather be on the front especially when approaching intersections or roundabouts so that i can stop quicker in case of an emergency than being afraid of washing out the front which only happens with abrubt braking which you should never do
@@scaramouchew that’s not at all true. It doesn’t matter if you’re braking progressively, or not. Any amount of front brake at an intersection is dangerous. That’s where oil and gravel collect, and it doesn’t matter how good of a rider you are, if you hit oil or gravel while front braking, you’re going to lose the front. You don’t need braking power below 20. You can stop almost instantly with front or rear, at that point. The front has no advantage, because you don’t have time to transfer weight to the front at those speeds, before you’re already stopped.
how do you handle the throttle while covering the break?
i'm twisting and readjusting all the time.
i tried watching your hand, but never even noticed your inputs.
smooth i guess, but how can i do it?
If you look at recommended gripping of the brake and throttle, instead of the instructed grip method of fisting. Most riders cover the brake with one or two fingers. Also, adjust the brake lever so you can reach it without closing the throttle completely.
You can't nor want to be full open throttle when applying the brake.
@nonyabusiness4151 the 2 finger method over the front brake is also great for reducing this risk of applying too much brake too quickly.
I cover my brake with my pointer and middle finger, and grip the throttle with the other two fingers.
Is it just me, or did that camera look like it was floating at first in the beginning lol
You guys are hilarious I wish we could hang out in person ever in NE Ohio HMU 😊
1
Nvm 2
Somehow
Earliest I've ever been
Please don't use front brakes heavily on gravel or bad road surfaces, its stupid abs sportbike talk.
an abs does not maximize your stopping power. it in fact decreases it. you won´t have to control a slide but you ain´t gonna stop as fast as on raw breakes.
you should alway initiate hard high speed breaking with the rear break, so you can apply front way harder, because springs are preloaded and you don´t end up in a stoppie
None of this is true. You stop faster with abs under almost all conditions. You hit the rear brake on a sportbike at 150 mph, and it does literally nothing.
ABS saved me from a car jumping a red light with a stop that I felt sure wouldn't make it.
Dang 1 min off first comment
If your coming in hot, and it's too late to jam on the brakes. I know of no other way to gain control of the bike, than to drop a gear and use the clutch to slow the bike with compression braking. Now, this as Yam mentioned, is a more advanced technique. That requires practice on the specific motorcycle and engine configuration your riding. My 1200cc high compression parallel twin, has brutal amounts of engine braking. A 600cc inline 4cyl. that revs to 15,000 rpms. Not so much. There's so many variables that can effect how a motorcycle reacts to engine braking, that it'd be literally impossible to explain it to someone that hasn't ever used it?
Bottom line is, if your going too fast to react by braking late. The chances of you being able to downshift and smoothly release the clutch, are slim to none. ALWAYS, be in the "right" gear BEFORE you enter the corner. Then you can use the power of the engine to control the roll out, under the most throttle, as early as possible. Once I'm back on the gas, all fear of balling up has already passed. Staying "ahead" of the next corner, or transition movements in the saddle, that might upset traction. Should all be planned well before they need to be executed. That's why I prefer to ride for no more than 35-45minutes at a time. After that, I'll either slow way down. Or just stop for a burn break of 10min. Get some fluids and a snack.
It's never too late to brake.
@@mhoeijI have a broken garden fence that says otherwise when I was going in too fast, grabbed everything, bike sat up and.........
Out for a run on a new road, take it easy and next time you can speed up a bit, then next time etc until you find your limit or it finds you!
@@fabianmckenna8197 You have to practice this stuff. An emergency isn’t the right time to try something new.
@@mhoeij Exactly my point when as a newbie, I realised I was in a sharp bend too fast and grabbed the brakes........ bike sits up.... you're not cornering any more!
Technically that is practice as I never did it again but it's experience that makes the difference.
@@fabianmckenna8197 Grabbing the brake = panic braking.
Bike tends to go straight when the rider panics.
Los Angeles is the most beautiful city on Earth.
You mean was... About 80 years ago, like in the movie LA confidential.
thats austin
🤡
… and that’s why you don’t do meth…
@@Rickmac22 But it's good for you