Planning The Ultimate DIY Canopy Setup!
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- Опубликовано: 28 июн 2024
- With the new MRT canopy setup completely empty, it's time to plan the ultimate DIY canopy fitout to make the most of this new setup. I'll be building as much of this fitout myself as possible, so there will be a few late nights to get it finished I think. 😅 Let me know what you guys think!
Check out the rest of this canopy build series here: • The start of a brand n...
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I have the tv bracket on my hot water system. It works perfectly and looks super neat. Wish we could attach photos 😊
Looks great, if running a 2000W inverter and using induction, I suggest you have plenty of battery power, 200Ah would be a minimum and with the dead space behind the pantry, you have enough room to mount at least 2 lithium batteries.
Looks a very good layout Daniel and know doubt Bianca will be happy with it also. Looking forward to viewing the process.
The dead space behind the fridge is perfect for the battery’s. I went with 300 amp hours and think it’s perfect. Never did I think I’d be using induction cooking now I can’t look back unless I’m able to cook on a fire. Choose carefully when it comes to buying an induction cooker because they aren’t all the same. Some power on and off all the time while cooking and others provide a constant power supply.
Good advice there mate cheers! Definitely agree that it will need a lot of power so will look at 300Ah+, thanks for the tip!
Got my MRT canopy installed a week ago and just finished my internal fit out. They are finished off really nicely. I cheated though due to time constraints for when we are taking off on our year trip so I bought the pantry and drawers but did all the 12v myself. Your plans look similar to mine and looking forward to seeing it.
Can`t wait to see it unfold Daniel and Bianca..
Looks good, have you thought about using Slim Lithium Batteries, you can push them against the front of the canopy to save space, only problem with a lot of them is they have Anderson in and out instead of screw terminals, if looking at induction go for minimum 200A lithium, if you want coffee machine and Bianca needs a Hair dryer, Hair straightener, electric blanket🤣🤣 etc, go for 300amp , the Westinghouse double induction seems to be the one most people go for, as it has wattage or temp display, they are around $230 which is cheap, or you can go for two single portable units, make sure to fit a minimum 50A DC to DC with mppt to keep the bigger batteries full, and 150W or 200W solar to keep them happy on the go, a 200W blanket is also a good idea so you can park under shade and run the solar to the sun, look at a dc to dc that supports 50V solar input (not all of them do) and get solar panel with 48V output, these are more tolerant to the shading problem, good luck
I second a slim line lithium might even be able to get 200+ amp hrs with 2x slimline batteries 🤔🤔
@@Tom-lf8hx Sure can, there are 170A and 200A slims available now, although looking at his design he want's to pull the fridge forward so it leaves a space behind the fridge which is logical for non slim lithium (regular lithium are also cheaper as well)
Some good advice there mate cheers! I'm thinking 300Ah+ will be the go to run induction cooking and charge all the drones/camera gear for longer trips but we'll see. 🙂
@@explorebound The biggest problem with induction is it's very expensive to get it to work right, the inverters are not to bad but the price of the lithium to drive it is still a bit pricey, you need to look at cost vs convenience, the hyperflame you have is a great cooker and if your going gas for a shower heater, it's easy to hook it up to the cooker as well, and save $2000+ for batteries, If you can get the 300A for a few nice promo words then do it 😂👍, if you will have to pay for it then maybe stick to 200A, this is still plenty to run induction, if so take a look at Renogy they have 200A just over $1000 with 5 year Warranty, they also have a nice IP67 50A DC to DC with MPPT, and 50V solar input, maybe contact them for some promo's, their stuff is very good quality, I have been using their stuff for a while with no problems, the Core One stuff is nice, check it out, also look at HardKorr batteries these are a little more expensive but top quality as well, and Aussie Batteries, again top quality, don't bother with the Kings batteries, they are cheap, but poor quality inside, there is a teardown video on YT, it's shocking how they do the insides.
Why is your spare wheel on the passenger side. Mine is on drivers side. Did you get a special one mate
Looked good, carn't wait for the build
Thanks for sharing 👍😎
Sweet set up.
Alright fine. I'll subscribe...after binge watching your last canopy build.
Looks good mate, carry on.
hey i love the build so much inspiring my build i was going to recommend adding a longer range fuel tank under the canopy for those longer overlanding periods that are offgrid
Definitely a good suggestion, I'll be looking into these over the next few months. 🙂
Exciting times mate
Love your work Daniel, New Subscriber, currently waiting on picking up my own DMAX next week and i think ive binged most of your videos now. A huge amount of information and learnings from your videos thank you for sharing with us. Im absolutely excited and inspired and keen to build my canopy alongside yours with some points of difference with specific wet gear storage. Cheers man look forward to the next!
So glad to hear mate! Good luck with the new Dmax! 🙂
Looking good mate. I would suggest though having a look at the duetto hot water system if you’re going to run a reasonable electrical system. Do away with gas all together and it’ll be a truck load easier than swinging out and setting up a gas hot water system every time you want hot water
Thanks mate - will check them out!
Hi Dan
If you're going to use the plastic joiners for your build I would suggest staying away from Bunnings joiners.
With my build I've changed the setup 3 times and in the process of pulling them apart a lot of the ones I got from Bunnings would snap clean off. The Qubelok joiners I got from Alsun Aluminium I had no breakages. I don't know whether the Bunnings joiners are not made of as good a plastic or if they have been sitting there longer getting brittle.
The joiners from Bunnings are a different brand-Metal Mate. Hope this helps.
Really like your videos especially the build vids.
Good advice mate cheers!
A good approach to your new layout Daniel - I built a 12 mm marine ply wall along the length separating the kitchen from the storage/electronics area and lined it with marine carpet - it’s been great to avoid those ‘disappearing items’ and also use it to mount light weight items and run cabling from one side to the other but keeping it tidy and concealed - I presume the rear ladder has to be kept centred as the heavy spare wheel is to one side but I expect it will offset the weight of the kitchen if it’s on the drivers side? - I’m short and not strong enough to lift a spare wheel so I just carry it under the usual Hilux chassis mount.
Thanks mate - I'll probably go down a similar route for my dividing wall too. 🙂 Regarding the ladder, they normally favour it to the opposite side to the spare wheel, but I got them to centre it to keep my OCD happy haha. There will be a new accessory coming for the RHS (replacing the existing jerry can holder) which will equal the weight of the spare tyre for even weight distribution. As for the internals, once I've built out the drawers and filled them with spares/tools/supplies/etc, I imagine them to weigh a similar amount if not more than the kitchen side.
use an ultra slim battery and mount it on the wall mate
Bigger pantry slide maybe?
Can't wait to hear finish are you putting fan in fridge pro and con if any 😊
I'll see how the new fridge goes being a larger unit, but will most likely add a fan to this one too
Should have the spare on the drivers side, to offset the weight of the fridge/kitchen/batteries, fuel tank.
Should use a slimline 200a battery and shove it in the dead space between the headboard and fridge/under the interver/power board.
This allows you to make two of the drawers significantly longer.
Every mm counts, and you are wasting a significant amount of space with the proposed layout and the weight distribution is imperfect.
Spare is on the left for a new accessory that will be mounted on the RHS in the near future (weighing similar to the spare so it's irrelevant which side the spare is on, however want the new accessory on the RHS for convenience). Hoping weight distribution will be pretty even with this fitout once it's all done. 👍
Well thought out. Have you considered being able to comply with "fully self contained" camping locations? Love to hear your thoughts on that.
Hi Ben - don’t know what Daniel has in mind but I carry a porta loo and fully enclosed shower annexe which though not perfect has allowed my to stay at “fully self contained” sites - there will likely be some managers that are quite strict with this arrangement but so far we’ve been fine but 90 percent of the time we chose spaces with facilities when ‘on the road’.
@@johnnumbat9782Good to know about your level of success, and yes, that is my approach too, but I wonder, as things get stricter, whether we will be forced to collect all grey water for disposal at dump points etc.?
Yep definitely, we have a portaloo that we bring when required, and the space above the drawers on the RHS will be used for carrying items like this - I'll be fixing a series of mounting tracks over on that side to secure everything. 🙂
very exciting, looking forward to watching your new build. Just wondering will you have somewhere to put your gas stove, or will you just go induction, also, will the battery get too hot in behind the fridge as the fridge can put out a lot of heat I'm told and wouldn't like to see any fires happening from your hot battery, just a thought. cheers
Thanks, I'm excited too! Regarding heat, you're correct that the fridge needs space around the compressor to ventilate the heat, however with the upright fridge that I'm installing the compressor/ventiallation area is at the very top corner of the fridge so the battery will be well clear of this space. 🙂 As for cooking, at this stage we're planning on giving induction a go with a small portable unit which we will sit on one of the benches, but we may also bring a compact butane stove as a backup.
Your venturing where we went.
I ran two butane stoves but cold mornings (gas freeze) and wind were an issue, hence I went for 1 X induction & 1 X butane. Butane only used now when using aluminium pressure cooker.
I found 2 x slim induction cook tops that took up space of previous induction unit took up, so now carry 2X induction, 1X butane.
You'll love it, wind, icy mornings, irrespective, it just cooks so friggin quick.
Butane cooker for slow bake & pressure cooker only now.
Looks like a bit a work but looks awesome 👍
🎉
Hi Dan! What keyboard and mouse combo are you using?
I'm using the Logitech G915 keyboard because it's one of the only wireless mechanical boards out there, and the Logtech MX Master 3S mouse 🙂
How did you decide what side the spare wheel goes on?
The spare is on the left to keep the RHS free for a new accessory in future which will replace the existing jerry can holder - this new accessory will weigh similar to the spare so weight distribution will be equal. 🙂
Why was the water tank not integrated into the front of the canopy with this canopy like some are
Wasn't an option for this particular build, however I prefer it under the tray anyway to keep the weight down low, and to preserve space in the canopy for the fitout
Noice. Size of Lithium Battery?
Reading through the comments here it seems 300Ah would be the minimum to sustainably run induction as the primary cooking source, so I'll be looking at something around that mark for this I reckon. 🙂
Drinking game “Set up” scull scull