FANTASTIC to see mate, another avid 12v enthusiast that's keeping it cost effective and simple ... not over complicating with manager 30's, ridiculous switch boards and multiple expensive screens that draw power to tell you ... well, that you're drawing power 🤔🤣🤣 the old KISS - keep it simple stupid rings true with 12v set ups. Yours is just like mine, basic, reliable and affordable. Awesome work Daniel, looking forward to future clips seeing you out enjoying it trouble free - not like the trip with the dimming canopy lights and the swarm of killer bees 🤣🤣 good stuff mate, now you and Bianca just go and enjoy it. 👍👍
@explorebound Hey dan, great video on the 12v set up. Just wondering if you have the dimensions for the back board you put your 12v set up on as i plan to do the same kind of set up and w
Hi there Daniel and Bianka, love how yous setup your rigs without spending a fortune, you both should be proud of your work and what yous manage to achieve. You are living proof that you don't have to spend $20,000 on a setup that works and alowing you both to get out there camping. NOT criticizing you or your wiring work by using the 8awg wiring you have run from your engine bay to the canopy is a touch light. When I did my wiring I used 6B&S cabling and used Narvas ANS fuse holders and fuses and have not had any issues with my setup in the eight years that I've been using it. A friend of mine wired his setup using the 8awg cable and the same fuse holders and fuses you are using and one of the fuse holder got hot enough it melted. He had a close call he could have lost everything. Please give it a bit of thought about up grading your cable size and the type of fuse and holders you are using. Considering you have just paid a lot of money for your new vehicle and I would hate to see something happen to your rig, especially after the up grades you have done to date. Looking forward to the up coming mods you are yet to do to your new rig.
What a great video and set up, props to you for that. I have got the same dc to dc charger and it actually states on page 13 of the manual to use “bolt down fuse holders” (ANL) not blade fuses as they can result in high resistance connection which can cause excess heat generation and may damage the fuse holder and or the wire. Would hate to see you loose your set up because of a fuse.
Nice neat job. However I’d be getting a battery box or building a plywood box to cover those exposed terminals and give the battery a bit of protection.
Great presentation as usual. Unclear on the length of your 8awg wiring going from engine bay to canopy so just some info in case you're not aware. Although the cable is specified as having a rating of 100 amp, the length of cable will determine the voltage loss. For this reason you should base the wiring gauge on both the max amperage and cable length. e.g. Not uncommon to have to use 4 awg cabling when running cable from engine bay to back of vehicle for a dual battery system. Thanks for your time. Cheers
Yeah I went nuts on power cable from my battery back to my canopy, what ever was recommended at the time, I went almost double again just to be safe and minimise voltage drop as much as possible 😉👍
Thanks mate! I've read up a bit on voltage drop which was partially why I chose to run the 100a cable - couldn't find consistent info on the drop I'd experience over a 5m run so thought 100a would more than cover it. 👍
Handy Formula for the voltage drop is Voltage Drop = (Current x Cable Length x 0.017)/ Wire Cross Sectional area . Where Current in Amps, length in metres and cross sectional area in mm2. So for 40 amps, 5 m and 8AWG ( 10mm2) VD is 0.34 VDC. Just a bit of advise - MDF not the best choice for mobile environments - Water proof ply much more suitable stable and less prone warping, cracking or just falling apart due to vibration.
@@explorebound I did the same amp rating ( mine was from RTM or jaycar ) - 80-100 A/h from memory and I’ve measure it at my towbar which it plugs into my camper trailer and I’m getting 14.6v with the car running so not concerned at all because from there, my CTEK 250 charger pumps up to 20 amps in anyway. So all good in the hood 👍
@@andrewwilliams9771 yeah, MDF is fine as long as the cabin is fairly weatherproof and not subject to a lot of moisture ingress. Ply is good but you can’t get “waterproof” ply - even marine ply isn’t waterproof, there’s no such thing, it’s made with the same glue and timber as standard ply - the only difference is marine ply is a better grade of veneer sheets they use to make it with less knots for boat hill building, that’s it. “Waterproof” or marine ply will last just as long as standard ply ( which is far cheaper ) once moisture gets into the edges and starts to delaminate. Paint the edges on ALL ply and it’ll last you a lot longer. We’ve used both types in external applications for displays left out in the weather 365 days 24/7 and they’ve both lasted as long as one another when unsealed. Not to hi jack this page or thread but I did a video on my channel on marine ply versus normal ply - well worth watching as it will save you a crap load of $$$ which can be better spent on more trips and more cold camping beverages 😉😁👍👍
Clean fitout mate. I'm keen to see the dmax fully decked out with wheels too. I would recommend an upgrade to a shunt based battery monitor mate, leagues ahead of a voltage based one especially in a lithium setup where coulomb efficiency is well over 90%. I'm not sure what deal you've got with itechworld but their battery monitor is a crazy markup, charging $200 for a rebadged "AiLi "battery monitor you can get off ebay/amazon for $40. Personally i prefer the renogy style rectangular one with alot more settings and features, $65 from ebay or $100 from renogy. They are essentially a resistor and logging voltmeter so not much can go wrong with them. You can go all out on the victron bluetooth one but i don't see that point, when you have a solid dual battery setup you don't need to watch your battery levels like a hawk and monitor it on your phone couple meters away. Auto cable is also rated very weird. Definitely don't count on that 8awg cable to supply 100a with acceptable voltage drop, more so 50amp which is fine for the dcdc but not much else. myself personally i prefer midi or anl fuses over blade maxi fuses, they have much better connection. i've seen blade fuses melt the housing without even popping the fuse itself.
Funny you say about blade fuses, I had one melt in the housing on my Narva spotties just a few weeks back and the fuse hadn’t even blown. Was one of those ‘plug n play’ harnesses from a reputable supplier too 😡😡
yeah blades are dogshit mate . It’s essentially a spade terminal trying to push high current. I wouldn’t use them for anything over 10amp continuously I had a set of eBay blade fuses that kept melting housing too, came in the same case as the one he showed so I would be weary of them .
Good to know guys, thanks for the feedback about the fuses! I was originally going to go ANL but my timeline snuck up on me and Supercheap only had these in stock - will make a mental note to swap them out first chance I get. 👍
Regarding the monitor, I think I'll eventually swap over to a shunt-based system and not locked in with any brand so good to know regarding the renogy system! The volt meter is more just to give me a rough guide which should be enough for the interim (or long-term, I'll have to see how it goes haha).
Yeah totally agree. I’m just a normal punter giving it a go. I’ve just returned from 3 week trip travelling up to and back from Fraser. That’s still a couple months away as I have a number of other videos to put up first. Enjoying the interest by people I will probably never meet.
I ran a double adaptor Anderson plug. One went to central locking on the LHS and then drilled holes for the power inlet on the right hand side of my MRT canopy. I used gland plugs for a waterproof seal of the large cable.
You did an awesome job mate. Basic and practical that looks neat too. How good is the ryobi soldering iron too? Just a quick tip with the led strip lighting, put some dabs of silicone or sika every 100mm or so along the backing. It will stick good and hold up with the heat of the doors and vibrations of driving too. Keep up the awesome work
The Ryobi soldering iron is unreal for projects like this, heats up so fast and no pesky extention leads haha. Thanks for the lighting tip, will give this a go if my glue fails. 👍
Yeah, a good point and that's been on my mind too. Given the tight timeframe before our big trip I thought I'd go this way for simplicity but might pop it in a dedicated box somewhere down the track. 🙂
Great job.i would now be thinking solar as well.with this in mind go for victron Bluetooth regulator and with their app you can monitor the battery without a shunt system, although i have both in my caravan. As you may be planning for a freezer i recommend merrick plugs over cig plus. Like you i love fiddling around with 12volt systems. Good luck with the rest of your set up.
@@explorebound Hey mate quick question did you run a wire from a Ignition wire Source to your DC to DC charger. I just thought these newer cars had smart alternators. Loving the build/setup
super clean install! picked a lot of tips here! Haven't seen that foil trick before! I've just been testing heat ratings of everything behind the heatshrink all these years 🤣🤣🤣🤣 nice little beads of water too! protection going strong!
Thanks! Good spot on the foil trick, I'd never tried it before but didn't want to melt the brand new carpet so was looking for something to make a shield out of - worked a treat. 🙂
Well done mate great to see some content like you do. Love seeing how all the wiring comes together and how neat you are while learning along the way.keep the videos coming mate👍
Hi Daniel. I’m just in the process of finalising my MRT explorer package. Are you able to share more detail on the changes you made to accomodate the 12v wiring and the KES? MRT aren’t able to modify their KES wiring to accommodate any changes so I’m looking at either replicating your design myself or having them add an additional flush mount Anderson connection to accommodate another 12v cable run.
Another great and informative vid guys. What size MDF did you use for your headboard and what carpet did you get from Bunnings (So many types to choose from)? Cheers
Hi Greg, I used 6mm MDF for the headboards. 🙂 I can't find the exact carpet on the Bunnings website, but it's the same as this but I got the non-rubberback version: www.bunnings.com.au/ideal-diy-floors-2m-charcoal-flair-rubberback-indoor-carpet_p6620929
Thanks mate! I secured the headboards with a few screws into the canopy frame, that way I can easily remove them if I need to access the wiring behind or add more gadgets haha.
Looks great, nice and neat. BTW of the battery monitor is just a volt meter it won't give you a very accurate reading, you really need a shunt monitor. Renogy do a decent one for around 95 delivered through ebay, this will be far more accurate.
Thanks mate, been looking into various shunt based systems but was curious to see how the volt meter worked out - at the end of the day all I'm really after is a rough guide, so might be ok 🙂
Nice job mate. Im about to embark on build no 3 haha. Always looking for inspiration and if mine looks half as neat as your when im done ill be happy. Good job hope its all still working well for you a year on.
great setup! when it came to installing your strip lighting was the back adhesive to the strip lights 3M? Thoughts that stuff would stick on anything! especially with my canopy being a black powder coated finish, will have to do the superglue trick as well. When it came to securing the conduit that you had run the strip lights in, how did you go about securing them when running them within your awning? i assume just zip ties?
@explorebound Hey dan, great video on the 12v set up. Just wondering if you have the dimensions for the back board you put your 12v set up on as i plan to do the same kind of set up and want to try start early
This might seem like a stupid question - but when you want to lift off the canopy... what do you do with the wiring from the starter to the dc to dc charger? Do you completely disconnect it or do you hide it somehow?
Hey mate, didn't add any chassis grounds in the canopy circuit. Everything in the canopy is grounded to the canopy battery to complete the circuit, and the DCDC is earthed via cable to the starter battery (which is then passed through to the aux batt).
Great video mate! Question, do you still run a battery isolator to allow charge for the second battery or does the dcdc charger have that built in? Thanks!
Hey mate, the DCDC takes care of everything so it just has a power feed directly connected to the starter battery, and a wire connected to the ignition feed that tells it when to start charging 🙂
@@shaunmatthews9680 yeah true … but 12v work is like pringles mate, once you start mate, you can’t stop 😁 I’ve always done my own 12v stuff from driving lights, to big stereos and multiple amp setups in my old Holden show car, to fridges and dual batteries, driving lights and UHF radios etc. If you think of current like water and wiring like plumbing, you’re half way there bud … 👍 we have faith in you, so now it’s up to you, go forth my son and smash it 😁👍👍
@@explorebound I've got a product on my fj and not that I get any advantages of saying anything about the product I think it has alot of advantages. It's a product from lensun as a bonnet solar panel. Very slimline and not having to carry nor have mounted on the canopy. So it might be useful for your new toy...
Very tidy set up my 12 volt setup is on its 3rd variation already and needs a freshen up this looks really good. Can't Wait to see what you do with the kitchen setup. Did you use screws or bolts mounting the charger. Mine came loose on a really bad stretch of corrugated road. Opened my canopy at camp it was sitting on my fridge so recommend nut and bolt due to the weight of it.
No this one just determines the battery level based on voltage (calibrated for lithium) - not as reliable as a shunt based system which is what I've since installed instead. 🙂
Thanks! I'll only add an inverter if we go down the induction cooking route, don't have much use for one otherwise as all our devices run/charge off 12v
Hi. I'm in the process of setting up some 12v in my canopy by running a solar panel through an mppt controller. In your opinion, how much room behind the headboard would you leave for the wiring? I'm thinking 40mm would be sufficient.
Hey Daniel, love the setup, DIY stuff & the Karijini trip… regarding your 12v setup, do you leave the fridge running 24/7 & if so, do you connect a 240v charger to the DCDC? I’ve a similar system, but not sure if I can plug a 240v charger into the battery box via Anderson plug into the cable normally used for vehicle input….
Hi Terry, I only power up the fridge when I’m heading away, it’s off during the week. To address your question though, you should be fine connecting your 240v charger if choice to your battery via Anderson connector so long as it’s appropriately fused (unless you’re referring to the Anderson that leads into the DCDC, this shouldn’t be used, make sure the charger goes straight to the battery not via DCDC)
Great vid mate, i also bought itech products and im stumped on the dc-dc 4oA charger. It says in built mppt, so did you disconnect the solar panel mppt or leave it in place?Are all 3 plugs connected all the time or do you disconnect the solar and only connect it when parked up? cheers
Hey mate, so far it's holding well, hasn't peeled off anywhere which is great but having accessories screwed through the panels and the material pulled tight defintely & stapeled helps a lot so not sure how it would go if the adhesive is the only thing holding it.
Great video - thanks for sharing. I am going through a DIY install myself and had a quick question about the bushmans fridge - do you run it through the fuse box or on its own line from the battery? thanks again, Paul
Thanks Paul! I've run the Bushman fridge through my fuse box with a 30A fuse. (I just made sure I ran thick wiring to the fuse box so that was thick enough to run the fridge and all accessories simultaneously.
@@explorebound ok cool. I've got the fuse box end sorted thanks to your vid. The through the canopy was my issue, especially being a lift off. Thanks heaps, I'll check out the Deutsch connector. Good on ya, love ya work 👍
Great post buddy you have given me some ideas 😊 I have a custom MRT canopy as well (so happy with it) with the pantry and draws/shelves I'm using composite panel instead of timber for longevity with a full redarc system and itechworld 200amp battery. Keep up the good work
Impressive, But that LED strip lighting, don't like heat its own or sun, you probably found out by now. Need to put stuff in covered alloy profile stuff, but involves screwing to mounted. Also Is your tray box 100% waterproof as MDf is a Water sponge Even if you seal it, Formply would be a better choice.
Surprisingly the LED lighting has stayed up even through some Pilbara heat, but will still be looking into a rigid solution at some point down the track nonetheless. Yeah the MDF was just a cheap solution really, and is easy to swap out if I have issues down the track but I had the same in my last canopy which lasted 4 years without and issues so figured it would do the job short-term at least. 🙂
Hey guys, just an FYI I've just been having a chat with iTechworld and they've agreed to offer my audience 5% off with promo code (store wide) EXPLOREBOUND 🙂 itechworld.com.au?sca_ref=4020437.TcSNwMVtnh&
... Agree. First though, it must be said, always grateful for this kind of content. Takes guts to lay out your work for the world to see. Here's my take on the cable size for the run from the starter battery to the DCDC40 charger: Two major cable sizing considerations -- > Protected by Fuse > Voltage Drop 3% Max (especially to a DC-DC charger that you want max output from / quickest charging) 1:34 ... Curiously, the Narva 8B&S 100A claim appears to be bunk. Narva's cable package 8B&S 100A claim cannot be substantiated by the 6 foot run top row of the Blue Sea Systems cable selection chart, apparently based on ABYC E-11, nor by the NEC "free air" ampacity table. Looked on the Narva web site, and they don't appear to substantiate their 100A claim for 8B&S with any detail. That said, 8B&S should be protected by a 60A fuse ... but likely not by much. For what it's worth, the 2011 NEC says 70A @75C for "free air" 8B&S (8AWG) ... and that sans deratings, like ambient temp (under bonnet?), etc. However, for voltage drop @3%, not 8B&S ... sustantially more copper needed, maybe 4B&S, likely 2B&S best ... to accommodate max current of 45A (iTechWorld DCDC40 manual), run 15 feet = 30 ft circuit, looking at the Blue Sea Systems cable selection chart. Perhaps that's wrong. Easily proven. If the aux Lithium battery were drained to 50% or so (don't know how you'd tell without a shunt), turning on the ute and checking voltage at the starter battery and at the DCDC40 charger while it's at max output, should show more than 3% drop with the installed 8B&S Narva cable ... if what I've stated isn't B&S. 😁 My $0.02 Thanks again for the content.
@@kradius2169 your fusing recommendation is off. 100a rated wire should be fused at 1.2-1.5x the constant load. So should the constant load be 100a then you need a fuse between 120-150a. The fuse is only there for short circuit protection not overloading. To size a wire there are 2 ratings. Max amp rating this is the most the insulation can handle no matter the length of wire. For example 8awg is normally rated around 80-100a but it can be rated at 200a with the correct insulation. The next rating is voltage drop. This is what we use as a little bit of Voltage drop can be the difference between the system working or not. When working out voltage drop the amp rating of the wire decreases with length not because it can't handle the load but just because of voltage drop. This is why if you size by voltage drop you will never overload the wire.
@@DIY12-24v ... OK. Thanks. Was not aware the fuse is only protecting against faults. Is that a DC thing? What about high impedence faults? I'm learning here. P.S. The overcurrent protection per NEC should be 125% of the 3 hour continuous current to avoid nuisance tripping, I believe. Also, U2oob threw up dude's latest 12VDC aux system iteration, I'm only just starting to watch and now dude's got a 6B&S from bonnet to DC-DC charger. Ima have to comment. 😁
@@kradius2169 do you mean low impedance fault? High impedance fault is basically a short circuit and it will blow. Low impedance fault will not blow the fuse as it under its rating as well as everything in the system. Example solar panels cannot have high impedance fault and this is why you can direct short a single panel and nothing melts.. Over current protection will be different depending on location because of laws and regulations. The fuse will not blow at over current for extended periods depending on the fuse type until it goes over 120-150% of the circuit rating.
@@DIY12-24v ... Fault = short circuit in my book. DC systems at times seem to have design peculiarities. Like I say, I'm learning. I mention high impedence faults only because they are low current, at times low enough to not trip a breaker -- but that may be more a high voltage transmission issue, and not a 12V DC issue. I would still though question a fuse not being meant to protect a cable from an overcurrent that's not a short circuit.
Hey mate how is that usb c port going for you and your laptop? i've got the one that stedi sell but it wont boost convert to the full 20V so charging laptop only happens with the lid closed. I did however buy a baseus 100w that plugs into a cig socket and will boost to the full 20v pd output from a 12v input. i suspect it utilises GaN as opposed to silicon chips so it doesn't warm up at all. Now my macbook pro charges as if i was using a wall charger in my car i was so amazed, I've got absolutely no use for an inverter in my car anymore. I found one the looks like yours on etronx and it seems it wont do the full USB PD (apple products don't use qualcomm quick charger protocol, rather usb Power Delivery). spec of 20v output without input voltage of 20-32v from a 24 system, seems to not use a chip incapable of boost converting.
Hi mate, during our recent trip I was editing 4K footage on my 13" MacBook Pro (M1) and that USB C charge port was charging the laptop quite a bit faster than I was able to use the charge. 🙂
Hey mate those blade fuses are dangerous i almost had my 4wd burn to the ground due to one of them failing, they actually slightly move and cause friction and get extremely hot to the point they melt. i would suggest changing them out for MIDI fuses instead much safer👍👍
@@lukegonano3956 Fair enough. I know nothing about electrical. I'd rather stick my fist in a blender than do wiring, but I also hate paying people to do a job I know I can probably do myself..... albeit with a lot of swearing.
@@lukegonano3956 A while ago, before I knew I could DIY, I had Opposite Lock install a dual battery for me. Mate, they put the shittiest thin wiring in from the engine bay all the way back to my battery in the canopy. It melted the fuse and wire. The overall diameter of the wire WITH insulation was about half the thickness of a pen. If I could post pictures I would.
Neat job for a diyer. Did you run your earth's to a bus bar to neaten up ur battery terminals? I reckon u should swap them blade fuses on ur main lines for some midi fuses. Much simpler and more reliable I believe imo. Solar setup, run a solar blanket. U park ur rig in the garage so having a roof mounted solar panel is pointless. You can get a 300w kt cables solar blanket on special at anaconda club prices for about 600 bucks. It's the only panel ull ever need.
LOL @ you running dedicated pos and neg to the start battery. you only need pos wire. you simply put a neg wire any place you want in the back of the truck to the frame or bed. waste of money big time.
The canopy is a lift-off, so can’t connect directly to chassis, has to be ported through the Anderson connection. Sure, I could have then splice half the wiring from the vehicle side of the connection to the chassis.. but it’s twin core cable anyway so wasn’t any inconvenience to run back to the starter battery, looks neater and was hardly any difference in cost.
@@thrillhunter9897 ... Direct connect of negative from DC-DC charger to starter battery also is guaranteed least voltage drop, hence minimum drama DC-DC charger performance.
best explanation of a 12v set up I've seen
FANTASTIC to see mate, another avid 12v enthusiast that's keeping it cost effective and simple ...
not over complicating with manager 30's, ridiculous switch boards and multiple expensive screens that draw power to tell you ... well, that you're drawing power 🤔🤣🤣
the old KISS - keep it simple stupid rings true with 12v set ups.
Yours is just like mine, basic, reliable and affordable. Awesome work Daniel, looking forward to future clips seeing you out enjoying it trouble free - not like the trip with the dimming canopy lights and the swarm of killer bees 🤣🤣
good stuff mate, now you and Bianca just go and enjoy it. 👍👍
Thanks mate really appreciate that! Simple is definitely the way to go with things like these. 🙂
@explorebound Hey dan, great video on the 12v set up. Just wondering if you have the dimensions for the back board you put your 12v set up on as i plan to do the same kind of set up and w
Hi there Daniel and Bianka, love how yous setup your rigs without spending a fortune, you both should be proud of your work and what yous manage to achieve. You are living proof that you don't have to spend $20,000 on a setup that works and alowing you both to get out there camping. NOT criticizing you or your wiring work by using the 8awg wiring you have run from your engine bay to the canopy is a touch light. When I did my wiring I used 6B&S cabling and used Narvas ANS fuse holders and fuses and have not had any issues with my setup in the eight years that I've been using it. A friend of mine wired his setup using the 8awg cable and the same fuse holders and fuses you are using and one of the fuse holder got hot enough it melted. He had a close call he could have lost everything. Please give it a bit of thought about up grading your cable size and the type of fuse and holders you are using. Considering you have just paid a lot of money for your new vehicle and I would hate to see something happen to your rig, especially after the up grades you have done to date. Looking forward to the up coming mods you are yet to do to your new rig.
What a great video and set up, props to you for that. I have got the same dc to dc charger and it actually states on page 13 of the manual to use “bolt down fuse holders” (ANL) not blade fuses as they can result in high resistance connection which can cause excess heat generation and may damage the fuse holder and or the wire. Would hate to see you loose your set up because of a fuse.
Great professional looking fit out!
Note to self: Sort yours out Pat!
Thanks Pat! 🙂
Nice neat job. However I’d be getting a battery box or building a plywood box to cover those exposed terminals and give the battery a bit of protection.
Very neat and tidy, Daniel, and well thought-out, too.
Great presentation as usual. Unclear on the length of your 8awg wiring going from engine bay to canopy so just some info in case you're not aware. Although the cable is specified as having a rating of 100 amp, the length of cable will determine the voltage loss. For this reason you should base the wiring gauge on both the max amperage and cable length. e.g. Not uncommon to have to use 4 awg cabling when running cable from engine bay to back of vehicle for a dual battery system. Thanks for your time. Cheers
Yeah I went nuts on power cable from my battery back to my canopy, what ever was recommended at the time, I went almost double again just to be safe and minimise voltage drop as much as possible 😉👍
Thanks mate! I've read up a bit on voltage drop which was partially why I chose to run the 100a cable - couldn't find consistent info on the drop I'd experience over a 5m run so thought 100a would more than cover it. 👍
Handy Formula for the voltage drop is Voltage Drop = (Current x Cable Length x 0.017)/ Wire Cross Sectional area . Where Current in Amps, length in metres and cross sectional area in mm2. So for 40 amps, 5 m and 8AWG ( 10mm2) VD is 0.34 VDC.
Just a bit of advise - MDF not the best choice for mobile environments - Water proof ply much more suitable stable and less prone warping, cracking or just falling apart due to vibration.
@@explorebound I did the same amp rating ( mine was from RTM or jaycar ) - 80-100 A/h from memory and I’ve measure it at my towbar which it plugs into my camper trailer and I’m getting 14.6v with the car running so not concerned at all because from there, my CTEK 250 charger pumps up to 20 amps in anyway. So all good in the hood 👍
@@andrewwilliams9771 yeah, MDF is fine as long as the cabin is fairly weatherproof and not subject to a lot of moisture ingress.
Ply is good but you can’t get “waterproof” ply - even marine ply isn’t waterproof, there’s no such thing, it’s made with the same glue and timber as standard ply - the only difference is marine ply is a better grade of veneer sheets they use to make it with less knots for boat hill building, that’s it.
“Waterproof” or marine ply will last just as long as standard ply ( which is far cheaper ) once moisture gets into the edges and starts to delaminate.
Paint the edges on ALL ply and it’ll last you a lot longer.
We’ve used both types in external applications for displays left out in the weather 365 days 24/7 and they’ve both lasted as long as one another when unsealed.
Not to hi jack this page or thread but I did a video on my channel on marine ply versus normal ply - well worth watching as it will save you a crap load of $$$ which can be better spent on more trips and more cold camping beverages
😉😁👍👍
Well done mate, looks awesome....cant wait to see it in use
Hi Scott,
Just come across yr comment and thought you might like to
Have a look at my set up and see what you think.
Cheers
Out There Touring
Well done, Mr squiggle, great job 👏👍
I had the same issue with the led lights on my caravan awning and got some outside rated double sided tape from Bunnings and it has worked out great.
Perfect will look into that, thanks!
Nice work.
Well presented mate, clear, precise and detailed. Easy to follow. 🤙
Nice D I Y job well done, nice and neat, not over complicated and works well to your needs , keep up the great vids, Thanks.
Video is put together very well...covers most of the things...very helpful for those whom willing to do it on their own
Hi,
Just reading yr comment and thought you might like to look at my videos for ideas.
Cheers
Out There Touring
Good work.👍
Clean fitout mate. I'm keen to see the dmax fully decked out with wheels too.
I would recommend an upgrade to a shunt based battery monitor mate, leagues ahead of a voltage based one especially in a lithium setup where coulomb efficiency is well over 90%. I'm not sure what deal you've got with itechworld but their battery monitor is a crazy markup, charging $200 for a rebadged "AiLi "battery monitor you can get off ebay/amazon for $40. Personally i prefer the renogy style rectangular one with alot more settings and features, $65 from ebay or $100 from renogy. They are essentially a resistor and logging voltmeter so not much can go wrong with them. You can go all out on the victron bluetooth one but i don't see that point, when you have a solid dual battery setup you don't need to watch your battery levels like a hawk and monitor it on your phone couple meters away.
Auto cable is also rated very weird. Definitely don't count on that 8awg cable to supply 100a with acceptable voltage drop, more so 50amp which is fine for the dcdc but not much else. myself personally i prefer midi or anl fuses over blade maxi fuses, they have much better connection. i've seen blade fuses melt the housing without even popping the fuse itself.
Funny you say about blade fuses, I had one melt in the housing on my Narva spotties just a few weeks back and the fuse hadn’t even blown. Was one of those ‘plug n play’ harnesses from a reputable supplier too 😡😡
Yep those big blade fuses are crap. Midi all the way.
yeah blades are dogshit mate . It’s essentially a spade terminal trying to push high current. I wouldn’t use them for anything over 10amp continuously I had a set of eBay blade fuses that kept melting housing too, came in the same case as the one he showed so I would be weary of them .
Good to know guys, thanks for the feedback about the fuses! I was originally going to go ANL but my timeline snuck up on me and Supercheap only had these in stock - will make a mental note to swap them out first chance I get. 👍
Regarding the monitor, I think I'll eventually swap over to a shunt-based system and not locked in with any brand so good to know regarding the renogy system! The volt meter is more just to give me a rough guide which should be enough for the interim (or long-term, I'll have to see how it goes haha).
Love this, makes it like the everyday person can do this! great work!
Hi,
Just reading yr comment and thought you might like to look at my videos for ideas.
Cheers
Out There Touring
@@ottouring will check them out for sure mate!! Cheers for the reply! Cant wait to watch the content!
Yeah totally agree. I’m just a normal punter giving it a go. I’ve just returned from 3 week trip travelling up to and back from Fraser. That’s still a couple months away as I have a number of other videos to put up first. Enjoying the interest by people I will probably never meet.
I ran a double adaptor Anderson plug. One went to central locking on the LHS and then drilled holes for the power inlet on the right hand side of my MRT canopy. I used gland plugs for a waterproof seal of the large cable.
The Carpet, The shrink wrap, The snug panel fit, Bianca's random drilling. #chefskiss
Good to know, cheers! Might swap them out for ANL fuses.
Great job mate, you are a top bloke 😉
Thanks mate!
Has come up a treat nice nice! Hey FYI you can get little icon stickers for those switches if needed, eBay/amazon sell sheets of them
Thanks! The switch panels did come with a few stickers, I just couldn't decide which ones I liked best 😅
@@explorebound 😂 yeah been there. It's even more fun when you stuff up the only one you have, ask me how I know 😄
@@explorebound me too 🤣
looking good mate!
Nice one. Neat & tidy. Looks like a bought one.👍
Hi,
Just reading yr comment and thought you might like to look at my videos for ideas.
Cheers
Out There Touring
great video mate love how you give so much info , really enjoy all your video keep up the great work you and your wife do
Very nice job. Looks very professional. Loving the build series.
Hi,
Just reading yr comment and thought you might like to look at my videos for ideas.
Cheers
Out There Touring
Great DIY episode 👍 You'll get more subscribers for sure!
Thanks mate! 🙂
Hi,
Just reading yr comment and thought you might like to look at my videos for ideas.
Cheers
Out There Touring
Well done
You did an awesome job mate. Basic and practical that looks neat too. How good is the ryobi soldering iron too? Just a quick tip with the led strip lighting, put some dabs of silicone or sika every 100mm or so along the backing. It will stick good and hold up with the heat of the doors and vibrations of driving too. Keep up the awesome work
The Ryobi soldering iron is unreal for projects like this, heats up so fast and no pesky extention leads haha. Thanks for the lighting tip, will give this a go if my glue fails. 👍
Hi,
Just reading yr comment and thought you might like to look at my videos for ideas.
Cheers
Out There Touring
Awesome work mate, the new build is coming along nicely 🤙
Thanks mate!
Tidy set up, I use to have a exposed 2nd battery however was constantly concerned something would short it out, ie camp chair let's etc
Yeah, a good point and that's been on my mind too. Given the tight timeframe before our big trip I thought I'd go this way for simplicity but might pop it in a dedicated box somewhere down the track. 🙂
Shot term solution might be some terminal covers and moving forward not a bad idea for any battery. That will protect them from shorting out.
@@explorebound not a hard job to chuck it in a basic $20 battery box from BCF. Good for piece of mind as well.
Great job.i would now be thinking solar as well.with this in mind go for victron Bluetooth regulator and with their app you can monitor the battery without a shunt system, although i have both in my caravan. As you may be planning for a freezer i recommend merrick plugs over cig plus. Like you i love fiddling around with 12volt systems. Good luck with the rest of your set up.
Great tips mate, thanks! 🙂
Hi,
Just reading yr comment and thought you might like to look at my videos for ideas.
Cheers
Out There Touring
@@explorebound Hey mate quick question did you run a wire from a Ignition wire Source to your DC to DC charger. I just thought these newer cars had smart alternators. Loving the build/setup
Great work again guys. Keep it up 👍
super clean install! picked a lot of tips here! Haven't seen that foil trick before! I've just been testing heat ratings of everything behind the heatshrink all these years 🤣🤣🤣🤣 nice little beads of water too! protection going strong!
Thanks! Good spot on the foil trick, I'd never tried it before but didn't want to melt the brand new carpet so was looking for something to make a shield out of - worked a treat. 🙂
Thank you for noticing the bead porn - it’s beautiful 👌
tidy man nice job
Awesome content my guy!
Well done mate great to see some content like you do.
Love seeing how all the wiring comes together and how neat you are while learning along the way.keep the videos coming mate👍
love to see a wiring diagram... do you run a +/- from fuse holder straight to lithium batt??
Hi Daniel. I’m just in the process of finalising my MRT explorer package. Are you able to share more detail on the changes you made to accomodate the 12v wiring and the KES? MRT aren’t able to modify their KES wiring to accommodate any changes so I’m looking at either replicating your design myself or having them add an additional flush mount Anderson connection to accommodate another 12v cable run.
Great video and excellent info. Just doing the Lithium battery system upgrade from scratch rewiring everything so this helps a lot
Glad it helped mate and good luck with your upgrade!
Man you are a professional!!😎 looks epic👍 when can you do mine?😜
Great vid mate. I would definitely recommend replacing the blade fuses. I had 2 melt in my engine bay with out breaking the fuse. Serious fire risk.
Good to know mate, thanks! I might swap them out for ANL fuses.
Another great and informative vid guys. What size MDF did you use for your headboard and what carpet did you get from Bunnings (So many types to choose from)? Cheers
Hi Greg, I used 6mm MDF for the headboards. 🙂 I can't find the exact carpet on the Bunnings website, but it's the same as this but I got the non-rubberback version: www.bunnings.com.au/ideal-diy-floors-2m-charcoal-flair-rubberback-indoor-carpet_p6620929
clean AF bruv, how did you secure the panels to the wall of the canopy?
Thanks mate! I secured the headboards with a few screws into the canopy frame, that way I can easily remove them if I need to access the wiring behind or add more gadgets haha.
Looks great, nice and neat. BTW of the battery monitor is just a volt meter it won't give you a very accurate reading, you really need a shunt monitor. Renogy do a decent one for around 95 delivered through ebay, this will be far more accurate.
Thanks mate, been looking into various shunt based systems but was curious to see how the volt meter worked out - at the end of the day all I'm really after is a rough guide, so might be ok 🙂
Nice job mate. Im about to embark on build no 3 haha. Always looking for inspiration and if mine looks half as neat as your when im done ill be happy. Good job hope its all still working well for you a year on.
great setup! when it came to installing your strip lighting was the back adhesive to the strip lights 3M? Thoughts that stuff would stick on anything! especially with my canopy being a black powder coated finish, will have to do the superglue trick as well. When it came to securing the conduit that you had run the strip lights in, how did you go about securing them when running them within your awning? i assume just zip ties?
Ever tested the max output of that "40A" BCDC with a proper amp meter or battery monitor?
Not yet, hoping to install a proper battery monitor in future which will enable me to test things like this 🙂
@@explorebound I look forward to the test results.
Hey man whats that recessed flush mount you used can you post the link to it?😁
Great work!! Inspirational stuff. I’ll be doing similar here in Perth in the next few months, when it is cooler! 😂
Nice setup and videos Can you advise on where you got that flush mount Anderson plug with central locking box. Ta
Hey mate, that particular one came with the central locking kit from MRT 🙂
@explorebound
Hey dan, great video on the 12v set up. Just wondering if you have the dimensions for the back board you put your 12v set up on as i plan to do the same kind of set up and want to try start early
This might seem like a stupid question - but when you want to lift off the canopy... what do you do with the wiring from the starter to the dc to dc charger? Do you completely disconnect it or do you hide it somehow?
There's an anderson inlet installed in the canopy so it's just a matter of unplugging that when I want to disconnect the canopy. 🙂
Did you put a fuse between the canopy battery and the fuse box? What size fuse did put after the main battery?
Sure did! There's a 30A fuse between the canopy battery and the fuse box (calculated using the max amp draw the fuse box should experience).
There goes the warranty on the central locking.
This blokes hand movements are more classier than Mr. Miyagi.
Hey Bud; did you ground to the chassis from anywhere other than the negative crank battery ground point? Thanks in advance
Hey mate, didn't add any chassis grounds in the canopy circuit. Everything in the canopy is grounded to the canopy battery to complete the circuit, and the DCDC is earthed via cable to the starter battery (which is then passed through to the aux batt).
You should add insulation in the canopy
Great video mate! Question, do you still run a battery isolator to allow charge for the second battery or does the dcdc charger have that built in? Thanks!
Hey mate, the DCDC takes care of everything so it just has a power feed directly connected to the starter battery, and a wire connected to the ignition feed that tells it when to start charging 🙂
Did you need to upgrade the alternator too?
Knowing how to do the electricals must save you some dosh 👍
Truck looking good mate 🤙🏽
Thanks mate!
Wish mine was that neat. You've done a ripping job. Wish I had the confidence to install my own wiring. I'm too chicken 🤣
Take your time, plan ahead and fuse EVERYTHING and you’ll be right mate, can save a bucket load of cash too 😁😉👍
Speaking from experience have a fire extinguisher handy 🤣🤣🤣 and double check everything canopy fires can get out of hand quite easily
@@4WheelingInNSW it's definitely a confidence thing.
@@jamieburns2798 I've seen some absolute horror stories
@@shaunmatthews9680 yeah true … but 12v work is like pringles mate, once you start mate, you can’t stop 😁
I’ve always done my own 12v stuff from driving lights, to big stereos and multiple amp setups in my old Holden show car, to fridges and dual batteries, driving lights and UHF radios etc.
If you think of current like water and wiring like plumbing, you’re half way there bud … 👍 we have faith in you, so now it’s up to you, go forth my son and smash it 😁👍👍
You are doing a great job.
Just wondering if you are going to be using solar for charging ?
Thanks mate! Yep looking at adding solar to the setup soon, just need to work out which way I want to go with it. 🙂
@@explorebound
I've got a product on my fj and not that I get any advantages of saying anything about the product I think it has alot of advantages.
It's a product from lensun as a bonnet solar panel.
Very slimline and not having to carry nor have mounted on the canopy.
So it might be useful for your new toy...
So since you have wiring from the car to the canopy can you no longer detach the canopy from the car?
The canopy has a flush mount anderson connector so just unplugs when I want to lift off the canopy. 🙂
@@explorebound sounds good. Dmax is coming along nicely
Hi mate where exactly did you find your usb charging panel? Cheers.
Very tidy set up my 12 volt setup is on its 3rd variation already and needs a freshen up this looks really good. Can't Wait to see what you do with the kitchen setup. Did you use screws or bolts mounting the charger. Mine came loose on a really bad stretch of corrugated road. Opened my canopy at camp it was sitting on my fridge so recommend nut and bolt due to the weight of it.
Thanks mate! I've just used screws for the DCDC so might have to swap over to bolts, thanks for the advice 🙂
Hi,
Just reading yr comment and thought you might like to look at my videos for ideas.
Cheers
Out There Touring
Good video Daniel. Just curios, with the Itech world lithium battery monitor, did you have to use a shunt?
No this one just determines the battery level based on voltage (calibrated for lithium) - not as reliable as a shunt based system which is what I've since installed instead. 🙂
Awesome job, are you adding an inverter as well?
Thanks! I'll only add an inverter if we go down the induction cooking route, don't have much use for one otherwise as all our devices run/charge off 12v
Hi. I'm in the process of setting up some 12v in my canopy by running a solar panel through an mppt controller.
In your opinion, how much room behind the headboard would you leave for the wiring? I'm thinking 40mm would be sufficient.
Hey Daniel, love the setup, DIY stuff & the Karijini trip… regarding your 12v setup, do you leave the fridge running 24/7 & if so, do you connect a 240v charger to the DCDC? I’ve a similar system, but not sure if I can plug a 240v charger into the battery box via Anderson plug into the cable normally used for vehicle input….
Hi Terry, I only power up the fridge when I’m heading away, it’s off during the week. To address your question though, you should be fine connecting your 240v charger if choice to your battery via Anderson connector so long as it’s appropriately fused (unless you’re referring to the Anderson that leads into the DCDC, this shouldn’t be used, make sure the charger goes straight to the battery not via DCDC)
Hi,
Just reading yr comment and thought you might like to look at my videos for ideas.
Cheers
Out There Touring
Great vid mate, i also bought itech products and im stumped on the dc-dc 4oA charger. It says in built mppt, so did you disconnect the solar panel mppt or leave it in place?Are all 3 plugs connected all the time or do you disconnect the solar and only connect it when parked up? cheers
Hey mate, how is that contact adhesive holding up after some time? About to use it for my rear set up but don’t want it to peel off!
Hey mate, so far it's holding well, hasn't peeled off anywhere which is great but having accessories screwed through the panels and the material pulled tight defintely & stapeled helps a lot so not sure how it would go if the adhesive is the only thing holding it.
Did you end up just using one packet of the 5m cable?
I actually used quite a bit more than expected, close to 8m in total so lucky I bought both packets!
@@explorebound
Haha lucky!
@@exploreboundDefinitely used undersized wiring over that distance mate, you'll probably be seeing 10% voltage drop using that gauge
Bro your deadly, love your efforts 👌
Great video - thanks for sharing. I am going through a DIY install myself and had a quick question about the bushmans fridge - do you run it through the fuse box or on its own line from the battery? thanks again, Paul
Thanks Paul! I've run the Bushman fridge through my fuse box with a 30A fuse. (I just made sure I ran thick wiring to the fuse box so that was thick enough to run the fridge and all accessories simultaneously.
Hi,
Just reading yr comment and thought you might like to look at my videos for ideas.
Cheers
Out There Touring
Hey mate, im about to install the 12v into my D'max canopy, what did you do with the Dc/dc ignition wire ?
Hey mate, I tapped into the factory fuse box and ran a piggy back fuse off an existing ignition circuit through to the canopy via a deutsch connector.
@@explorebound ok cool. I've got the fuse box end sorted thanks to your vid. The through the canopy was my issue, especially being a lift off. Thanks heaps, I'll check out the Deutsch connector. Good on ya, love ya work 👍
Great post buddy you have given me some ideas 😊
I have a custom MRT canopy as well (so happy with it) with the pantry and draws/shelves
I'm using composite panel instead of timber for longevity with a full redarc system and itechworld 200amp battery.
Keep up the good work
How much solar do you have on the canopy, what solar panel do you run
No solar on the canopy, just a portable 300W iTechworld solar blanket when we stay in the same place for more than a few days 👍
Impressive, But that LED strip lighting, don't like heat its own or sun, you probably found out by now. Need to put stuff in covered alloy profile stuff, but involves screwing to mounted. Also Is your tray box 100% waterproof as MDf is a Water sponge Even if you seal it, Formply would be a better choice.
Surprisingly the LED lighting has stayed up even through some Pilbara heat, but will still be looking into a rigid solution at some point down the track nonetheless. Yeah the MDF was just a cheap solution really, and is easy to swap out if I have issues down the track but I had the same in my last canopy which lasted 4 years without and issues so figured it would do the job short-term at least. 🙂
Hey guys, just an FYI I've just been having a chat with iTechworld and they've agreed to offer my audience 5% off with promo code (store wide) EXPLOREBOUND 🙂
itechworld.com.au?sca_ref=4020437.TcSNwMVtnh&
Looks good mate. Did you need to run an ignition wire for the DCDC charger? I thought that was required with cars that have a smart alternator.
Definitely needed.
Yep you're spot on about needing the ignition wire with smart alternators 🙂
Did you tap into an existing fuse under the bonnet for this?
Did you connect negative back to battery or chassis?
All the canopy electrics are earthed back to the canopy battery, and the DCDC charger is earthed back to the main vehicle battery
Any reason you didn’t connect to the chassis for the grounding? I’m about to install this same dc charger and am in two minds…
Probably a dumb question but how did you wire up both amber lights to the same switch?
Hi mate, I just connected the positive feed for both amber strips together and ran them to the same switch. 🙂
1:40 your wire is undersized for that length and amp rating
... Agree.
First though, it must be said, always grateful for this kind of content. Takes guts to lay out your work for the world to see.
Here's my take on the cable size for the run from the starter battery to the DCDC40 charger:
Two major cable sizing considerations --
> Protected by Fuse
> Voltage Drop 3% Max
(especially to a DC-DC charger that you want max output from / quickest charging)
1:34 ... Curiously, the Narva 8B&S 100A claim appears to be bunk.
Narva's cable package 8B&S 100A claim cannot be substantiated by the 6 foot run top row of the Blue Sea Systems cable selection chart, apparently based on ABYC E-11, nor by the NEC "free air" ampacity table.
Looked on the Narva web site, and they don't appear to substantiate their 100A claim for 8B&S with any detail.
That said, 8B&S should be protected by a 60A fuse ... but likely not by much.
For what it's worth, the 2011 NEC says 70A @75C for "free air" 8B&S (8AWG) ... and that sans deratings, like ambient temp (under bonnet?), etc.
However, for voltage drop @3%, not 8B&S ... sustantially more copper needed, maybe 4B&S, likely 2B&S best ... to accommodate max current of 45A (iTechWorld DCDC40 manual), run 15 feet = 30 ft circuit, looking at the Blue Sea Systems cable selection chart.
Perhaps that's wrong.
Easily proven.
If the aux Lithium battery were drained to 50% or so (don't know how you'd tell without a shunt), turning on the ute and checking voltage at the starter battery and at the DCDC40 charger while it's at max output, should show more than 3% drop with the installed 8B&S Narva cable ... if what I've stated isn't B&S. 😁
My $0.02
Thanks again for the content.
@@kradius2169 your fusing recommendation is off.
100a rated wire should be fused at 1.2-1.5x the constant load.
So should the constant load be 100a then you need a fuse between 120-150a. The fuse is only there for short circuit protection not overloading.
To size a wire there are 2 ratings.
Max amp rating this is the most the insulation can handle no matter the length of wire. For example 8awg is normally rated around 80-100a but it can be rated at 200a with the correct insulation.
The next rating is voltage drop. This is what we use as a little bit of Voltage drop can be the difference between the system working or not.
When working out voltage drop the amp rating of the wire decreases with length not because it can't handle the load but just because of voltage drop. This is why if you size by voltage drop you will never overload the wire.
@@DIY12-24v ... OK. Thanks.
Was not aware the fuse is only protecting against faults.
Is that a DC thing?
What about high impedence faults?
I'm learning here.
P.S. The overcurrent protection per NEC should be 125% of the 3 hour continuous current to avoid nuisance tripping, I believe.
Also, U2oob threw up dude's latest 12VDC aux system iteration, I'm only just starting to watch and now dude's got a 6B&S from bonnet to DC-DC charger.
Ima have to comment. 😁
@@kradius2169 do you mean low impedance fault?
High impedance fault is basically a short circuit and it will blow.
Low impedance fault will not blow the fuse as it under its rating as well as everything in the system. Example solar panels cannot have high impedance fault and this is why you can direct short a single panel and nothing melts..
Over current protection will be different depending on location because of laws and regulations.
The fuse will not blow at over current for extended periods depending on the fuse type until it goes over 120-150% of the circuit rating.
@@DIY12-24v ... Fault = short circuit in my book.
DC systems at times seem to have design peculiarities. Like I say, I'm learning.
I mention high impedence faults only because they are low current, at times low enough to not trip a breaker -- but that may be more a high voltage transmission issue, and not a 12V DC issue.
I would still though question a fuse not being meant to protect a cable from an overcurrent that's not a short circuit.
Are u going to do a solar panel setup
Yep solar is definitely on the cards for future 🙂
Hey mate how is that usb c port going for you and your laptop? i've got the one that stedi sell but it wont boost convert to the full 20V so charging laptop only happens with the lid closed. I did however buy a baseus 100w that plugs into a cig socket and will boost to the full 20v pd output from a 12v input. i suspect it utilises GaN as opposed to silicon chips so it doesn't warm up at all. Now my macbook pro charges as if i was using a wall charger in my car i was so amazed, I've got absolutely no use for an inverter in my car anymore.
I found one the looks like yours on etronx and it seems it wont do the full USB PD (apple products don't use qualcomm quick charger protocol, rather usb Power Delivery). spec of 20v output without input voltage of 20-32v from a 24 system, seems to not use a chip incapable of boost converting.
Hi mate, during our recent trip I was editing 4K footage on my 13" MacBook Pro (M1) and that USB C charge port was charging the laptop quite a bit faster than I was able to use the charge. 🙂
Hey mate those blade fuses are dangerous i almost had my 4wd burn to the ground due to one of them failing, they actually slightly move and cause friction and get extremely hot to the point they melt. i would suggest changing them out for MIDI fuses instead much safer👍👍
Thanks for the advice mate, I'll have to swap them over! 👍
Would ditch the blades for MIDIs
Why?
Outdoors the blades tend to melt a lot of the time and not properly blow if they do. The contacts on the MIDI are alot better also.
@@lukegonano3956
Fair enough. I know nothing about electrical. I'd rather stick my fist in a blender than do wiring, but I also hate paying people to do a job I know I can probably do myself..... albeit with a lot of swearing.
Outdoors no doubt mate I’m the same wiring is my most hated, just hate to see something like this fail causing a fire
@@lukegonano3956
A while ago, before I knew I could DIY, I had Opposite Lock install a dual battery for me. Mate, they put the shittiest thin wiring in from the engine bay all the way back to my battery in the canopy. It melted the fuse and wire. The overall diameter of the wire WITH insulation was about half the thickness of a pen. If I could post pictures I would.
Neat job for a diyer.
Did you run your earth's to a bus bar to neaten up ur battery terminals?
I reckon u should swap them blade fuses on ur main lines for some midi fuses. Much simpler and more reliable I believe imo.
Solar setup, run a solar blanket. U park ur rig in the garage so having a roof mounted solar panel is pointless. You can get a 300w kt cables solar blanket on special at anaconda club prices for about 600 bucks. It's the only panel ull ever need.
Do you have a drawn diagram of this setup you did
Hi Lily,
Just going through yr comment, maybe my video may assist you.
Cheers
Out There Touring
8 B&S wire isn't that 75amp not 100?
Hmm after a bit of research you could be right! I was just going off the packet saying 100A 😬
@@explorebound yeah i was told its a NArva thing! great setup, (i just brought myself a pair of Tempo Lug Crimpers TH0006 happy days.!
Your fuse should always be rated less than your wiring. That why is burns out first.
New channel name is ExploreMax 😅
Grommets mate, grommets. Double sheathed or not, use grommets..
Love the build, but please use a face mask when cutting/sanding MDF. Some nasty stuff in that sheeting.
Hey look at that, an Australian that doesn’t say conjoot
LOL @ you running dedicated pos and neg to the start battery. you only need pos wire. you simply put a neg wire any place you want in the back of the truck to the frame or bed. waste of money big time.
The canopy is a lift-off, so can’t connect directly to chassis, has to be ported through the Anderson connection. Sure, I could have then splice half the wiring from the vehicle side of the connection to the chassis.. but it’s twin core cable anyway so wasn’t any inconvenience to run back to the starter battery, looks neater and was hardly any difference in cost.
@@explorebound i had no idea it was a lift off. Makes total sense now.
@@thrillhunter9897 ... Direct connect of negative from DC-DC charger to starter battery also is guaranteed least voltage drop, hence minimum drama DC-DC charger performance.
Awesome video but god the way you finish your sentences and drag your words triggers the heck outta me. Good content tho 👍
for people who don't know what they're doing (me) this was totally pointless to watch