I was just asking myself the same thing but still don't have a good answer except like you I enjoy them. Its also nice to see a professional that wants to do a good job for his customers.
Had a plumber guy that Lowe's sent to my house wanted to charge me $2500 to swap out my well pump but i had to get the pump and everything else as well as prep the area including pull the pump. Im a disabled older woman. All he told me about what to purchase was "get a 1 hp 2 wire submersible pump, if you get a 3 wire get the box too". I had a 3 wire originally and knew nothing else of the well, it's the first time i had any problem with it, other than replacing the pressure switch a few years back, since i bought the place. I went straight to RUclips and found your channel to give me an idea of what i needed to get and thought if i gotta do all that i might as well do it myself. Needless to say that guy will never get my business, my son works for a grading co and borrowed the crane and between he, his wife and myself we got the job done. Went with the same thing i had .
That’s crazy expensive! I replaced one for a friend last year and his son helped me and pulling it out and going and getting the replacement took about five hours by the time we turned the new one on and I know I was cheap but I charged him 350 labor
I considered expanding my spring water tank from 500g to 2500g. The contractor gave me a rough price of $4k. He said it would take longer than a 12-hour day, so it would be two days. He broke down the costs: labor, machine costs, and materials. I did not do it as it was not worth it to me. This was one of the first jobs he quoted me. Since I understood his costs, I have had him out several times for 1 and 2 day jobs. It was because of his openness and the way he finishes jobs that he comes out twice a year for a day project. (He slips me between his bigger jobs, so I get a better rate, but I only get a 2 or 3 day notice.)
Apparently they are in a southern zone where you do not need to go to that length . Here in NH and ME we us pitless adapters and they are usually about 6 feet deep .
enjoyed the video, Make sure you do one of the installing the liner, that will be interesting to watch. Also as a business owner it's nice to see someone that really knows their business and can explain it to the customer without throwing the other guy under the bus. That would have been very easy for you to do. I like that you made it clear what he needed to resolve his problem but at the same time made it clear he got what he paid for. So many people try to make someone else look bad thinking it's making them look better. Nice JOB!!!
I work in environmental consulting and I just cringed a little when the bolts on the sanitary seal cap came out. I’m glad you were able to recover it. I do a lot of groundwater remediation systems with downhole Grundfos pumps. Makes me wonder what the bentonite seal looks like above the screen.
Crazy how people do things differently in different places. Here in Maine we always use 1" black polyethylene and pitiless adapter at least 6 feet deep. Only time I see a cap like that is an old well someone has in the basement
But you are in Maine where you have what some people call a “frost line”. Where I live, most people have never heard of a frost line and our wells are always capped above ground like this video.
I'm still surprised there isn't a pitless adapter if there is a chance of freezing. You aren't adding that much to the cost of the well, but you never have to think about the outside portion of the well.
In areas where I live in SC, lots of wells aren't but about 25feet, very high water table, some areas on my property most times of the year, water only about two feet below surface. In other words,lots of people around here are drinking surface water.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I'm watching videos on deep well pumps because in a few hours I'll be attending to fix one for a friend. Never worked on water pumps so I'm getting a new education at 65 years old. So thanks for sharing... Carey in North Carolina...
Have a few people there to help you!. Remember that if you lift it up & see that it's on pvc, do not pull it out like I do the black pipe or it will break. Pvc must be pulled straight up in 20ft sections bc its too ridged.
Hello Sir. Live in California. Like your show. So me know what you do Plus hoke lot more! Started at 15 on oil rigs. Spent 22.5 yearsdoing everything you could do to a hole in the ground. From 0’ to 26,000’ and bank to 0’ . I started with abandoned wells drilled, cable pounded in 1910”s We cut down /pulled over the last ten standing wood derrick’ in Kern Co. got my first Rig as a driller/operator in in 1978. Double Ideco drive in 220ft derrick 225,000 pull. 40,000 pound draw works 1’ line 6line blocks three man crew that just the start less than three years at 18 a position like that in 1970’s oh 64 now retired!
Only when asked by customer. State law requires water sample port at well head. Install a pitless then requires me to install a yard hydrant. Just more expensive. If I drive 4 hours north, all wells become pitless.
@@h2omechanic , it's good to see you're feeling better. You mentioned "state law" which made me think about code & inspection. I wondered, you suggest that whoever ran the supply piping from the pump to the house undersized it & I would agree but I would've thought this would be regulated by code. So how can it pass an inspection with undersized piping or is this more about "minimum to meet code" versus "ideal"? Btw great to see Mandy and Ginger! ^_^
It's interesting to see well systems in other areas. I have never seen yellow water. Just red iron algae and black manganese. Water camera do you use ? Every time I have to run a camera we have to pull the whole set out.
3/4 is likely used as a false money saving function. In my area in older houses it would not be uncommon to find 1/2 inch to the house in older houses built pre-code. Many people did their own construction. The mind set was--if water comes out of the faucet in the house---all is good and we ain't spending no more money!!
I find plenty of those cost saving measures around our poorly built house. Just got done removing a kitchen sink slip ptrap from the shower. I presume it was an extra that they had lying around.
You want a way to remove the bolts. It looks like it's holding the rubber seal in place. You want that to be replaceable, unless you replace the entire cap.
I read your comment at the 6:24 mark caught me off guard 😂 And also the effect from his voice did sound cool!! Like reverb in a small room He was talking thru the well pipe, so I guess it would be: *the depth of the well + the inner diameter of the pipe* That would = the dimensions for the “room” of his reverberated voice
@@ohokayofficial You are the coolest person ever. Have you heard of the Cooper Time Cube? I think it was a reverb made by UREI from the 70s. It was a box with a 50 foot roll of garden hose that had a speaker on one side and a mic on the other. Kind of reminds me of the way this effect from this video is created. This though right here in this particular video is soooooo much more unique. Thanks for reminding me about it! If I ever can afford the best home audio studio ever, you better believe it will have a well drilled someplace near by. :)
Dude you have been such a big help to me as a service plumber! Is there any way that you could do a video on testing the condition electrical insulation of the submersible wire and motor windings down the well casing, after you disconnect the wires running underground from the house, with a multimeter or megger? It would be nice to be able to tell my customers that either A: you’ve got a problem with the submersible wire, or B: you’ve got a problem with the pump motor itself. Is there a number, say in ohms, that I should be looking for… like if it’s below 1.5 ohms your pump or cable has (or is going bad). Teach us you ways professor!
Simply use a clamp style amp meter. If you have 240v at the well head & 0 amps, it's a broken wire. If you get amps above 9.5-16 then it's a bad pump. If you get 7 amps & 240v & no water, then its broken pipe down the hole. If you get 3.5amps, (low) then the pump splines are stripped out. I never do it any other way.
I’m about an hour and a half north of you. I live in a Town that starts with an “L” and ends with “burg” can I start referring you to some of my customers?
We put a crimp on the bottom of the bolt thread so they can not be unscrewed out of the bottom plate. very quick and painless with a crimp tool. We also use 316 stainless steel bolts and aluminium seal plates.
I love your videos, informative and easy to watch. However I have a small issue with you calling out the 3/4” supply pipe. The well plate says it’s a 2 gpm well. So why waste $ on a 1” or whatever to flow at 10-12 gpm when you’re not meant to flow more than 2? Perhaps they sized the pipe based on the rated flow and not on the ideal 10 gpm.
It creates unnecessary head pressure against the pump trying to force water thru that small pipe. 3/4" pex is cts which means it's actually smaller than typical 3/4" black roll & 3/4" pvc. Think of it as 1/2" pvc. Bc 1/2"pvc beside 3/4" pex look the same size. Pex is measured by cts (copper tubing size) . It works, but its really undersized. The pump here can provide probably 9-10gpm with proper plumbing
That PEX water feed looks totally unprofessional. Each PEX fitting further restricts the flow since the fittling is designed to go inside the pipe. Also, I'm pretty sure PEX is not supposed to be direct burried in the ground either.
@@davebrunson125 You're right about it being a dry hole. The stated well capacity is 2 gpm, most of that water looks like it's being produced from overburden leaking into the bottom of the well casing. If he seals off the bottom of that casing, the well will produce little if any water. That is probably the reason the drillers didn't cement up the casing, they suspected it was a dry hole.
My husband and I are having an issue with our well and we both agreed that we would love to have you inspect and work on our well but unfortunately we live in Ohio. Excellent content🫡🤌🏾
I love your channel. I am in NJ and this is my first house with a well. The well is actually in my basement! I am confused, you said his pump pits down about 400 feet but his casing only goes ~ 70 feet. what is between end of casing and the pump? And how come casing isn't required all the way down to the pump? Thx for all your great content!!
⚠️ CORRECTION - “People’s Republic of New Jersey” and NOT “NJ”. 🤣 (I grew up in Essex Fells and moved to Morris County years back) One quick recommendation… I’m an electrical contractor and have a bunch of customers with wells. Most of them were installed by the same well co. working for a developer. They were all given Berkey Black gravity water filter units (I believe they are the “Royal Berkey” models). There were apparently no contaminants detected but they all state that the drinking water tastes much better using the filter vs. without. After seeing this and speaking with most of the residents, I bought one for my own home. We have municipal water and it’s supposedly “tested & OK”, but it really smells horribly like chlorine. The water is actually drinkable when using the Berkey filter. I think we got the larger model?? I never could drink the tap water here and used to buy spring water for drinking and cooking. Now, I drink the water and love it! Good luck. 👍🏼😀
Regarding the 3/4” diameter pex tubing from well to house. Can you send a steel cable through the line, connect it to a tubing cutter, split the existing tubing and follow it with 1” diameter pe tubing? This method is commonly used to update lead service connections to water mains.
I just got my well put in and the water is brownish color. Hadnt had time to actually let it run for wile yet due to working everyday late. Im let it run some this weekend to see if that clears it up
Damn, but I love that you explain things so well! Wish more guys were like you & knowledgeable! Hard to believe there’s places that are seeing wells THAT deep and he’s still getting rain water intrusion! 😮 Geez! Will the well further need a shock treatment at the end to purify it, since so much intrusion & cloudiness has happened?
H20 you have some great video's, I enjoy watching your channel. Do you have any videos on how to relocate a well tank. Right now my brothers tank is under his cabin, he has to go into a crawl space to get to it. Looking to move it into a basement that was added into his cabin. So it would be a lot easier access. I have an idea what to do but not sure what materials I would need. Thanks if you could help. Keep up with the great video's
In the north we use 1-piece well head caps and all hardware is on the Outside diameter of the well head. No chance of any bolts falling down the well. Can 1 piece caps be used in the southern states too?
I had someone call me and a would plumber dropped both half moon pieces on top of the pump. I used a ten foot piece of angled iron and a rope to knock it loose it took a couple hours to get it out of the well. Kept locking up in well. They had been without water for over a month
Wet air from the well will enter the metal splice box and corrode the connections. The problem should be on the driller, They can set up the drill rig and remove the casing and re bore the concrete seal out.
@@roballan4944 it takes a long time for schedule 40 to rust out. I've pulled pumps out of wells 40 years old still in good shape that are steel casing. I'm in Ontario
@@roballan4944 I'm in B.C. and never, ever seen plastic. It's steel well casing only. It doesn't rust out; one of mine is over sixty years old and looks like new. I'm not saying plastic is a bad idea, but I would rather spend the money on steel.
I had my well hydrofracked 2 months ago I still have cloudy water 😢 any thoughts? Suggestions would greatly be appreciated. I was running the well dry for the first month everyday. Put back in the filters a week ago, lots of sediment dark brown very dirty mud like filter.
The liner is a 4'' pipe that is put into the 6" pipe. There's a seal on the bottom of the 4" pipe 6 rubber disc's. The cement goes between the 6" & 4" in that small gap. Cement doesn't go into the well. In a nut shell, the casing is being extended and reduced in size.
@@h2omechanic will a 1/2 hp 3 wire pump work? I hate 3 wire pumps but the customer already has that particular one. And also what size pressure tank do you recommend for the submersible pump
Man thank you a million, your awesome. And thanks for the unexpected immediate response, you've helped me tremendously. If I run into anything I will get back with you if that's ok. Thanks again brother
What's the process for sealing the bottom of a well casing during the installation of a new well? Is it somehow supposed to be glued to the stop of the rock bore hole to seal it from any such leakage as is shown in this video??
Great video and problem solving, I've had a well installed in the UK , but 150ft down and I get 5 gallon a minute, they put a 6inch perforated pipe at the bottom 30ft then a normal 6inch pipe on top, my question is why don't you guys do that
I just want to know, if you're well can freeze, why isn't a pitless adapter used in that area? We have water all year, don't worry about the well casing, or underground piping, even when the temperature goes negative. I understand you don't get that cold, but i feel like someone would pay extra not to have to deal with making sure the well doesn't freeze.
Also that's PEX-B so the ID of the fittings are smaller than 3/4" so that's an additional restriction. If it was PEX-A the ID of the fittings would be the same as the pipe.
Yep, We Texans love a good well. We love talking about them, looking at them, drilling them, etc. And yes a lot of stuff from Vevor is really good. Vevor is really just a big marketing distribution company in China, its kind of like a Walmart + Granger/Uline that started with tools and commercial equipment in 2008. They go to factories that just make products and simply provide marketing, warehousing, shipping, packaging, etc to sell that product inside China and internationally. But at the same time they assess the need of products and what does well and they circle back to those factories to help them adjust the product to fit the market. Of course now they've expanded from just tools/commercial stuff to all sorts of goods.
I wonder if they ran the 3/4" line to the house as a flow restrictor, seeing as the Well only made 2 GPM. If the demand is great enough, it could easily run the well dry.
There's nothing wrong with the design. The problem is the homeowner who thinks he should unscrew all four bolts all the way. Even as a newbie, years ago, I never made that mistake.
Is is possible for a pump the break the casing of a well? When the pump stops there is a loud water hammer. Also, when the pump starts, i think it wiggles a lot in the well, hitting and smashing the walls. What do you think? Thank you!
Why are plastic casings used instead of steel, and why not pit less adapters? Cost I imagine. We're way up north, I have only ever seen steal casings used here. If a sanitary top seal is used, the top of the well is either buried 4 feet or in a heated well house.
I have a house that has a well. On the cap it says the flow is 2.5 gallons a minute. 15 miles away, I lived at a rental that had to have the well re drilled. When they tested the well, the pump could only pump at 50 gallons a minute. The well flow was more than 50 gallons a minute.
Vevor has some good products - but they have their fair share of junk also. That well camera appears to be working out, and I have a Vevor chamber vacuum sealer that works great. But they also sell a stand-alone vacuum pump that doesn't work (see the HVAC Guy channel about that) and they sell a man cage that goes over pallet forks that is a lightweight piece of garbage (Good Works Tractors reviewed that gem). With Vevor products, I take the approach of looking for review videos on RUclips from folks that have had/used the product for a period of time before I decide to buy it. Take care and God Bless.
Hey man, I really appreciate your videos and your content, I have learned a lot. However, I have a question and I hope you have an answer? My water pressure has dropped in the last few weeks. I went out and looked in the pump house, and the system has a 20-40 pressure switch. The bladder tank rings when I knock on it and no water comes out the Schrader valve. When I pressure tested the tank, it was at 62 psI. I know that's way out of spec for what the setting should be, but how have I lived here for five years and never had an issue with my water pressure? I reduced the air pressure in the tank to 18 PSI, but now the pump seems to short cycle and my pressure is less. Additionally, the water is coming out kind of dirty and cloudy. I took the cap off of the well casing and shined a light down inside. I did not see any water spraying from a crack in a pipe, nor did I hear any type of leak. Can you give me any suggestions as to on what's going on?
Great video not sure why I am watching well videos but here I am Watching holding a 2 yr old and tv in background but your audio could really use a mic I know video and sound is secondary to the professionalism of talking to your client not the camera did make it tough to keep up with what your were saying Great videos just small suggestion
Sounds like what im dealing with now, cept it started with a decent amount of sediment type stuff in the toilet tanks, which isnt really an issue anymore.
Have a well that according to a well guy is about 50ftto where the pump is. My sediment filter and carbon filter all of a sudden filled up with sandy clay and the pump burned out. The well guy doesn't use a camera though he claims he has a couple and says he's never seen a broken or cracked casing. He replaced the pump then 2 days later it started pumping sandy mud again. I shut the power off and came a different company. They said its most likely a collapsed well and drilled a new one. So now I have 2 wells. 1 that works at 5 gal. Per minute and 1 that doesn't work. He also does not use a camera though he has them. ( doesn't make any sense to have them and not use them to me though ) what could be done to save the non-working well and is it possible to link both weeks together?
⚠️ As an electrical contractor for over 30 years, I shuddered when I saw that “1900” (4” square) electrical junction box being used OUTDOORS! I know virtually nothing about wells and water pumps used in a residential environment as my work area is a suburban metro area with municipal water supply. Great channel and video. Thank you.
Not sure about where they are at, but in my area, Wells are required to have an electrical disconnect at the location of the well itself. Normally just the well pump control box works, as you lift the lid and it separates the connection, but I had a 2 wire pump 110v and my uncle who is a licensed electrician used a simple light switch to make the disconnect until I could upgrade to a 3 wire pump and use the well pump control box with the capacitor. But we also have a shed the well, pressure tank and electrical are all in. I would recommend this guy build a small shack to protect the well, instead of using that igloo as a cover.
@@cybernoid001 yes.. an enclosure would be very advantageous. The 1900 style junction box is only approved and safe to use in indoor and where no moisture exists. They are constructed of steel and have multiple holes for mounting screws and grounding screw(s). They also have a ton of knockouts that offer ample room for water to pour right in. I’d use uni-strut to build out a “frame” to mount all of the electrical and control gear. I’d also add a service receptacle (GFCI protected of course) which is a NEC requirement for service personnel AND a fused disconnect for the pump motor itself. Like you mentioned… The use of an overall protective enclosure makes tremendous sense and would keep the weather out, keep animals away, keep the damn evil neighbor kids out 🤡, etc.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I don’t know why I watch these videos as I don’t even have a well… but damn I enjoy them!!
Me too😅
I was just asking myself the same thing but still don't have a good answer except like you I enjoy them. Its also nice to see a professional that wants to do a good job for his customers.
Had a plumber guy that Lowe's sent to my house wanted to charge me $2500 to swap out my well pump but i had to get the pump and everything else as well as prep the area including pull the pump. Im a disabled older woman. All he told me about what to purchase was "get a 1 hp 2 wire submersible pump, if you get a 3 wire get the box too". I had a 3 wire originally and knew nothing else of the well, it's the first time i had any problem with it, other than replacing the pressure switch a few years back, since i bought the place. I went straight to RUclips and found your channel to give me an idea of what i needed to get and thought if i gotta do all that i might as well do it myself. Needless to say that guy will never get my business, my son works for a grading co and borrowed the crane and between he, his wife and myself we got the job done. Went with the same thing i had .
That’s crazy expensive! I replaced one for a friend last year and his son helped me and pulling it out and going and getting the replacement took about five hours by the time we turned the new one on and I know I was cheap but I charged him 350 labor
Outstanding!
Good to hear that you got it done. That idiot should be put in jail for trying to take advantage of a disabled older lady.
I considered expanding my spring water tank from 500g to 2500g.
The contractor gave me a rough price of $4k. He said it would take longer than a 12-hour day, so it would be two days. He broke down the costs: labor, machine costs, and materials. I did not do it as it was not worth it to me.
This was one of the first jobs he quoted me. Since I understood his costs, I have had him out several times for 1 and 2 day jobs. It was because of his openness and the way he finishes jobs that he comes out twice a year for a day project. (He slips me between his bigger jobs, so I get a better rate, but I only get a 2 or 3 day notice.)
Always GREAT to watch someone who knows exactly what he is doing AND that he enjoys his work!! That’s worth its weight in gold!!
Great work man!!! Love the way you layout the truth to the customer so that they’ll be informed as to the process…very honest work
I've always installed a pitless adapter on the well casing below the frost line or at a depht regulated by lical plumbing codes.
Yes!
Apparently they are in a southern zone where you do not need to go to that length . Here in
NH and ME we us pitless adapters and they are usually about 6 feet deep .
enjoyed the video, Make sure you do one of the installing the liner, that will be interesting to watch. Also as a business owner it's nice to see someone that really knows their business and can explain it to the customer without throwing the other guy under the bus. That would have been very easy for you to do. I like that you made it clear what he needed to resolve his problem but at the same time made it clear he got what he paid for. So many people try to make someone else look bad thinking it's making them look better. Nice JOB!!!
Love your videos , I always think I’m going to watch for a minute and go to something else, but I always stay to the end .so educational.
I work in environmental consulting and I just cringed a little when the bolts on the sanitary seal cap came out. I’m glad you were able to recover it. I do a lot of groundwater remediation systems with downhole Grundfos pumps.
Makes me wonder what the bentonite seal looks like above the screen.
Crazy how people do things differently in different places. Here in Maine we always use 1" black polyethylene and pitiless adapter at least 6 feet deep.
Only time I see a cap like that is an old well someone has in the basement
But you are in Maine where you have what some people call a “frost line”. Where I live, most people have never heard of a frost line and our wells are always capped above ground like this video.
I'm still surprised there isn't a pitless adapter if there is a chance of freezing. You aren't adding that much to the cost of the well, but you never have to think about the outside portion of the well.
The 3/4" pipe mentioned in the video would have an internal diamter of what... 1/2"? Not going to get much through that!
In areas where I live in SC, lots of wells aren't but about 25feet, very high water table, some areas on my property most times of the year, water only about two feet below surface. In other words,lots of people around here are drinking surface water.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I'm watching videos on deep well pumps because in a few hours I'll be attending to fix one for a friend. Never worked on water pumps so I'm getting a new education at 65 years old. So thanks for sharing... Carey in North Carolina...
Have a few people there to help you!.
Remember that if you lift it up & see that it's on pvc, do not pull it out like I do the black pipe or it will break. Pvc must be pulled straight up in 20ft sections bc its too ridged.
I enjoy listening to your southern speak.
It’s always a joy to watch an expert ply their expertise.
I don't have a well, but I have learned alot about them from you.
Thanks for making these vids. Learned so much. Just had well drilled. 50 gpm, basalt, solar pump going in.
we up north in ny use all metal casing 6 in welded lengths
That's what my driller put in (PA)
Hello Sir. Live in California. Like your show. So me know what you do Plus hoke lot more! Started at 15 on oil rigs. Spent 22.5 yearsdoing everything you could do to a hole in the ground. From 0’ to 26,000’ and bank to 0’ . I started with abandoned wells drilled, cable pounded in 1910”s We cut down /pulled over the last ten standing wood derrick’ in Kern Co. got my first Rig as a driller/operator in in 1978. Double Ideco drive in 220ft derrick 225,000 pull. 40,000 pound draw works 1’ line 6line blocks three man crew that just the start less than three years at 18 a position like that in 1970’s oh 64 now retired!
Do you ever use pitless adapters for the plumbing connections on the wells there?
Only when asked by customer.
State law requires water sample port at well head. Install a pitless then requires me to install a yard hydrant. Just more expensive. If I drive 4 hours north, all wells become pitless.
@@h2omechanic , it's good to see you're feeling better. You mentioned "state law" which made me think about code & inspection. I wondered, you suggest that whoever ran the supply piping from the pump to the house undersized it & I would agree but I would've thought this would be regulated by code. So how can it pass an inspection with undersized piping or is this more about "minimum to meet code" versus "ideal"? Btw great to see Mandy and Ginger! ^_^
The way you say cement, makes it sound like seamen...had me chuckle there.
It's interesting to see well systems in other areas.
I have never seen yellow water. Just red iron algae and black manganese. Water camera do you use ?
Every time I have to run a camera we have to pull the whole set out.
Vevor sells this camera on there site. I have a Video on the camera on my channel. Well pump q&a playlist
I also watch you videos all the way from South Africa
3/4 is likely used as a false money saving function. In my area in older houses it would not be uncommon to find 1/2 inch to the house in older houses built pre-code. Many people did their own construction. The mind set was--if water comes out of the faucet in the house---all is good and we ain't spending no more money!!
I find plenty of those cost saving measures around our poorly built house. Just got done removing a kitchen sink slip ptrap from the shower. I presume it was an extra that they had lying around.
I don't understand why the well cap mfg don't deform the bolts so they don't come out!
You want a way to remove the bolts. It looks like it's holding the rubber seal in place. You want that to be replaceable, unless you replace the entire cap.
They can use the ss deflon/ nylon seal nut .
@@arthurr8670 I'd take that inplace of having the parts drop in a well and jamming something up.
@@2wwwilly and they still can be removed and parts dropped in well by the uninformed person.
Hello..I have aquwstion..how do I check if my well pump is bad .
7:47 wow your voice sounds soooooo cool. I need to record some vocals and whatnot with that effect!
I read your comment at the 6:24 mark
caught me off guard 😂
And also the effect from his voice did sound cool!!
Like reverb in a small room
He was talking thru the well pipe, so I guess it would be:
*the depth of the well + the inner diameter of the pipe*
That would = the dimensions for the “room” of his reverberated voice
@@ohokayofficial You are the coolest person ever. Have you heard of the Cooper Time Cube? I think it was a reverb made by UREI from the 70s. It was a box with a 50 foot roll of garden hose that had a speaker on one side and a mic on the other. Kind of reminds me of the way this effect from this video is created. This though right here in this particular video is soooooo much more unique. Thanks for reminding me about it!
If I ever can afford the best home audio studio ever, you better believe it will have a well drilled someplace near by. :)
I never heard of plastic well casing up here in Maine all use steel casing
You are the man!
Instead of a weld blob restricting travel along the thread of that bolt thread, use a nylok nut at the end.
Dude you have been such a big help to me as a service plumber! Is there any way that you could do a video on testing the condition electrical insulation of the submersible wire and motor windings down the well casing, after you disconnect the wires running underground from the house, with a multimeter or megger? It would be nice to be able to tell my customers that either A: you’ve got a problem with the submersible wire, or B: you’ve got a problem with the pump motor itself. Is there a number, say in ohms, that I should be looking for… like if it’s below 1.5 ohms your pump or cable has (or is going bad). Teach us you ways professor!
Simply use a clamp style amp meter. If you have 240v at the well head & 0 amps, it's a broken wire. If you get amps above 9.5-16 then it's a bad pump.
If you get 7 amps & 240v & no water, then its broken pipe down the hole. If you get 3.5amps, (low) then the pump splines are stripped out.
I never do it any other way.
I’m about an hour and a half north of you. I live in a Town that starts with an “L” and ends with “burg” can I start referring you to some of my customers?
@@robtheisen5844 that's a little too far for me.
We put a crimp on the bottom of the bolt thread so they can not be unscrewed out of the bottom plate. very quick and painless with a crimp tool. We also use 316 stainless steel bolts and aluminium seal plates.
I put rain X on the end of that camera lens. I had a huge improvement on mine when I hit it would rain. It keeps the water off the lens.
You reach New Zealand as well 😀 Cheers
Up in NH I've only seen metal casing all the way to ground level. Is PVC used just for cost savings?
Wow , you use pvc risers in your wells , no way here in NH ! We sink 8” steel pipe here from bedrock all the way to the surface .
Love your video's and showing what you do. I've never met anyone locally who does groundwater wells and similar.
Texas, its like a whole other country! 🤠👍
I love your videos, informative and easy to watch. However I have a small issue with you calling out the 3/4” supply pipe. The well plate says it’s a 2 gpm well. So why waste $ on a 1” or whatever to flow at 10-12 gpm when you’re not meant to flow more than 2? Perhaps they sized the pipe based on the rated flow and not on the ideal 10 gpm.
It creates unnecessary head pressure against the pump trying to force water thru that small pipe. 3/4" pex is cts which means it's actually smaller than typical 3/4" black roll & 3/4" pvc. Think of it as 1/2" pvc. Bc 1/2"pvc beside 3/4" pex look the same size. Pex is measured by cts (copper tubing size) . It works, but its really undersized. The pump here can provide probably 9-10gpm with proper plumbing
That PEX water feed looks totally unprofessional. Each PEX fitting further restricts the flow since the fittling is designed to go inside the pipe. Also, I'm pretty sure PEX is not supposed to be direct burried in the ground either.
@@davebrunson125 You're right about it being a dry hole. The stated well capacity is 2 gpm, most of that water looks like it's being produced from overburden leaking into the bottom of the well casing. If he seals off the bottom of that casing, the well will produce little if any water. That is probably the reason the drillers didn't cement up the casing, they suspected it was a dry hole.
Thanks for the video. Do you have a video explaining how you determine the amount of water that a well produces?
My husband and I are having an issue with our well and we both agreed that we would love to have you inspect and work on our well but unfortunately we live in Ohio. Excellent content🫡🤌🏾
I love your channel. I am in NJ and this is my first house with a well. The well is actually in my basement! I am confused, you said his pump pits down about 400 feet but his casing only goes ~ 70 feet. what is between end of casing and the pump? And how come casing isn't required all the way down to the pump? Thx for all your great content!!
the crack is at 70 ft any crack above the 400 may leak in ground water
They set casing down to bedrock , below that it's a rock casing.
⚠️ CORRECTION - “People’s Republic of New Jersey” and NOT “NJ”.
🤣
(I grew up in Essex Fells and moved to Morris County years back)
One quick recommendation… I’m an electrical contractor and have a bunch of customers with wells.
Most of them were installed by the same well co. working for a developer.
They were all given Berkey Black gravity water filter units (I believe they are the “Royal Berkey” models).
There were apparently no contaminants detected but they all state that the drinking water tastes much better using the filter vs. without.
After seeing this and speaking with most of the residents, I bought one for my own home.
We have municipal water and it’s supposedly “tested & OK”, but it really smells horribly like chlorine.
The water is actually drinkable when using the Berkey filter. I think we got the larger model??
I never could drink the tap water here and used to buy spring water for drinking and cooking.
Now, I drink the water and love it!
Good luck. 👍🏼😀
Up here by me in NYS, i use caps that are held on with set scews on the side.
Regarding the 3/4” diameter pex tubing from well to house. Can you send a steel cable through the line, connect it to a tubing cutter, split the existing tubing and follow it with 1” diameter pe tubing? This method is commonly used to update lead service connections to water mains.
I just got my well put in and the water is brownish color. Hadnt had time to actually let it run for wile yet due to working everyday late. Im let it run some this weekend to see if that clears it up
Hi I watch your videos from orange nsw Australia
We need you in Scotland co.
Damn, but I love that you explain things so well! Wish more guys were like you & knowledgeable!
Hard to believe there’s places that are seeing wells THAT deep and he’s still getting rain water intrusion! 😮 Geez!
Will the well further need a shock treatment at the end to purify it, since so much intrusion & cloudiness has happened?
H20 you have some great video's, I enjoy watching your channel. Do you have any videos on how to relocate a well tank. Right now my brothers tank is under his cabin, he has to go into a crawl space to get to it. Looking to move it into a basement that was added into his cabin. So it would be a lot easier access. I have an idea what to do but not sure what materials I would need. Thanks if you could help. Keep up with the great video's
In the north we use 1-piece well head caps and all hardware is on the Outside diameter of the well head. No chance of any bolts falling down the well. Can 1 piece caps be used in the southern states too?
I’m in Perth Western Australia. You definitely drill a bit different to us in Western Australia
Do you have a video of you casing this well?
I had someone call me and a would plumber dropped both half moon pieces on top of the pump. I used a ten foot piece of angled iron and a rope to knock it loose it took a couple hours to get it out of the well. Kept locking up in well. They had been without water for over a month
Yup, it's actually the most common problem, that's why I only use 1 percent well seals. Glad you got it free
@@h2omechanicone percent seals?
@@earlestes8649 I think he meant to write 1 piece and the auto-correct did it wrong
Wet air from the well will enter the metal splice box and corrode the connections. The problem should be on the driller, They can set up the drill rig and remove the casing and re bore the concrete seal out.
I need a well installed on my new ranch. Does anyone have any recommendations for a driller near Henryetta, OK ?
Mulțumim!
Do they not use a steel casing anymore or is it cost effective to use pvc now
Steel casing would add 30-40% to the total cost of a well. It's required in some regions. But not necessary everywhere
I would hire you in Colorado
I really enjoy your videos, you explain everything so well.
Have you tried to Rainx your well camera lens?
Might help with viewing.
Well drillers up here in Canada use steel pipe casing all the way. No plastic.
Not true here in Alberta many newer wells use plastic as it will not rust out.
@@roballan4944 it takes a long time for schedule 40 to rust out. I've pulled pumps out of wells 40 years old still in good shape that are steel casing. I'm in Ontario
@@roballan4944 I'm in B.C. and never, ever seen plastic. It's steel well casing only. It doesn't rust out; one of mine is over sixty years old and looks like new. I'm not saying plastic is a bad idea, but I would rather spend the money on steel.
4th, having pump and hydrant put into my new well on Monday.
I had my well hydrofracked 2 months ago I still have cloudy water 😢 any thoughts? Suggestions would greatly be appreciated.
I was running the well dry for the first month everyday. Put back in the filters a week ago, lots of sediment dark brown very dirty mud like filter.
Why don’t you guys use a pit less adapter? You have a facet on top of a line coming out the well head. Do you not have a freezing problem?
How do you pull the pump in the future if it’s cemented in ?
The liner is a 4'' pipe that is put into the 6" pipe. There's a seal on the bottom of the 4" pipe 6 rubber disc's. The cement goes between the 6" & 4" in that small gap. Cement doesn't go into the well. In a nut shell, the casing is being extended and reduced in size.
@@h2omechanic oh. Got it. Thanks
watching here from 🇵🇭
High quality video, as always. This is great info to have.
I'm glad I watched Your videos, I would have taken the bolts out too!
Have a question real quick sir. Is it best to use a submersible pump or a convertible jet pump on a 44' well with a 11 gpm flow rate
If its a 4" well or bigger, I go with a submersible.
3" wellvo or smaller then use jet pump
@@h2omechanic will a 1/2 hp 3 wire pump work? I hate 3 wire pumps but the customer already has that particular one. And also what size pressure tank do you recommend for the submersible pump
@@heathammons8270 it'll be fine. Just use a 20gal tank.
Man thank you a million, your awesome. And thanks for the unexpected immediate response, you've helped me tremendously. If I run into anything I will get back with you if that's ok. Thanks again brother
What's the process for sealing the bottom of a well casing during the installation of a new well? Is it somehow supposed to be glued to the stop of the rock bore hole to seal it from any such leakage as is shown in this video??
Great video and problem solving, I've had a well installed in the UK , but 150ft down and I get 5 gallon a minute, they put a 6inch perforated pipe at the bottom 30ft then a normal 6inch pipe on top, my question is why don't you guys do that
Your probably in a coastal region, the slotted casing is used in specific areas. Just not needed here bc we find water in rock, not sand
@H2o Mechanic thanks for your reply, we are on Cornwall, and your right they went through Granite
I just want to know, if you're well can freeze, why isn't a pitless adapter used in that area? We have water all year, don't worry about the well casing, or underground piping, even when the temperature goes negative. I understand you don't get that cold, but i feel like someone would pay extra not to have to deal with making sure the well doesn't freeze.
You're just proving that camera is worth it's weight in gold.
Also that's PEX-B so the ID of the fittings are smaller than 3/4" so that's an additional restriction. If it was PEX-A the ID of the fittings would be the same as the pipe.
I have a 750' well pump at 600' with a 100' sleeve so I feel your pain!
Yep, We Texans love a good well. We love talking about them, looking at them, drilling them, etc.
And yes a lot of stuff from Vevor is really good. Vevor is really just a big marketing distribution company in China, its kind of like a Walmart + Granger/Uline that started with tools and commercial equipment in 2008. They go to factories that just make products and simply provide marketing, warehousing, shipping, packaging, etc to sell that product inside China and internationally. But at the same time they assess the need of products and what does well and they circle back to those factories to help them adjust the product to fit the market. Of course now they've expanded from just tools/commercial stuff to all sorts of goods.
I wonder if they ran the 3/4" line to the house as a flow restrictor, seeing as the Well only made 2 GPM. If the demand is great enough, it could easily run the well dry.
Nice to have man’s best friends with ya isn’t it.
My JD 3320 had them, current Kioti CK4010 has them!
Interesting. My well is pretty shallow but still good to know.
Another way to keep the bottom plate from is to run the bolt through and weld a blob on the threads at the end of the bolt
I just "Trash" the end threads with whatever's handy, hammer & chisel, BIG pliers, jamb nuts...
There's nothing wrong with the design. The problem is the homeowner who thinks he should unscrew all four bolts all the way. Even as a newbie, years ago, I never made that mistake.
how is the depth of the casing determined? You said the casing is 60ft but well depth is 400ft.
Hey H2O have you ever watched James Butler well and sewer services?
I noticed a lack of a union at the wellhead. I'm only familiar with wells in Florida. Ron W4BIN
Just curious, what did you charge him for that liner, if you don’t mind telling me. Thanks.
Is is possible for a pump the break the casing of a well? When the pump stops there is a loud water hammer. Also, when the pump starts, i think it wiggles a lot in the well, hitting and smashing the walls. What do you think? Thank you!
Sounds doubtful. Water hammer is usually along the pipe itself.
This would be a Great place to work as a Driller / welder/ pump Mechanic/ cdl driver etc etc etc.
Why are plastic casings used instead of steel, and why not pit less adapters? Cost I imagine. We're way up north, I have only ever seen steal casings used here. If a sanitary top seal is used, the top of the well is either buried 4 feet or in a heated well house.
I have a job for you, over here in Australia, all the best mate
I have a house that has a well. On the cap it says the flow is 2.5 gallons a minute.
15 miles away, I lived at a rental that had to have the well re drilled. When they tested the well, the pump could only pump at 50 gallons a minute. The well flow was more than 50 gallons a minute.
HI. LOVE YOUR VIDEOS AND I'M READY FOR THE SECOND EPISODE OF THIS WELL
Thanks for the video.
Vevor always pleasantly surprises me
Vevor has some good products - but they have their fair share of junk also. That well camera appears to be working out, and I have a Vevor chamber vacuum sealer that works great. But they also sell a stand-alone vacuum pump that doesn't work (see the HVAC Guy channel about that) and they sell a man cage that goes over pallet forks that is a lightweight piece of garbage (Good Works Tractors reviewed that gem).
With Vevor products, I take the approach of looking for review videos on RUclips from folks that have had/used the product for a period of time before I decide to buy it.
Take care and God Bless.
Hey man, I really appreciate your videos and your content, I have learned a lot. However, I have a question and I hope you have an answer? My water pressure has dropped in the last few weeks. I went out and looked in the pump house, and the system has a 20-40 pressure switch. The bladder tank rings when I knock on it and no water comes out the Schrader valve. When I pressure tested the tank, it was at 62 psI. I know that's way out of spec for what the setting should be, but how have I lived here for five years and never had an issue with my water pressure? I reduced the air pressure in the tank to 18 PSI, but now the pump seems to short cycle and my pressure is less. Additionally, the water is coming out kind of dirty and cloudy. I took the cap off of the well casing and shined a light down inside. I did not see any water spraying from a crack in a pipe, nor did I hear any type of leak. Can you give me any suggestions as to on what's going on?
you will need to camera it just like was done here, you can rent one
Great video not sure why I am watching well videos but here I am
Watching holding a 2 yr old and tv in background but your audio could really use a mic
I know video and sound is secondary to the professionalism of talking to your client not the camera did make it tough to keep up with what your were saying
Great videos just small suggestion
Reppin the AMA recycling sweatshirt lol. Cool to see local stuff with someone as popular as your channel!
It's actually my Diesel mechanics Hoodie lol. He left it at my shop a year ago. So I grabbed it lol
Sounds like what im dealing with now, cept it started with a decent amount of sediment type stuff in the toilet tanks, which isnt really an issue anymore.
Sir, I want to know from you how many HP of pump do I need a 400ft deep well for my diy work. Thanks and God bless
What is the static water level & gpm
Have a well that according to a well guy is about 50ftto where the pump is. My sediment filter and carbon filter all of a sudden filled up with sandy clay and the pump burned out. The well guy doesn't use a camera though he claims he has a couple and says he's never seen a broken or cracked casing. He replaced the pump then 2 days later it started pumping sandy mud again. I shut the power off and came a different company. They said its most likely a collapsed well and drilled a new one. So now I have 2 wells. 1 that works at 5 gal. Per minute and 1 that doesn't work. He also does not use a camera though he has them. ( doesn't make any sense to have them and not use them to me though ) what could be done to save the non-working well and is it possible to link both weeks together?
So why did they stop using all steel casings I never would of thought pvc would handle the abuses
you guys and your plastic well casing.
⚠️ As an electrical contractor for over 30 years, I shuddered when I saw that “1900” (4” square) electrical junction box being used OUTDOORS! I know virtually nothing about wells and water pumps used in a residential environment as my work area is a suburban metro area with municipal water supply.
Great channel and video.
Thank you.
Not sure about where they are at, but in my area, Wells are required to have an electrical disconnect at the location of the well itself. Normally just the well pump control box works, as you lift the lid and it separates the connection, but I had a 2 wire pump 110v and my uncle who is a licensed electrician used a simple light switch to make the disconnect until I could upgrade to a 3 wire pump and use the well pump control box with the capacitor.
But we also have a shed the well, pressure tank and electrical are all in.
I would recommend this guy build a small shack to protect the well, instead of using that igloo as a cover.
@@cybernoid001 yes.. an enclosure would be very advantageous.
The 1900 style junction box is only approved and safe to use in indoor and where no moisture exists.
They are constructed of steel and have multiple holes for mounting screws and grounding screw(s).
They also have a ton of knockouts that offer ample room for water to pour right in.
I’d use uni-strut to build out a “frame” to mount all of the electrical and control gear.
I’d also add a service receptacle (GFCI protected of course) which is a NEC requirement for service personnel AND a fused disconnect for the pump motor itself.
Like you mentioned…
The use of an overall protective enclosure makes tremendous sense and would keep the weather out, keep animals away, keep the damn evil neighbor kids out 🤡, etc.
They should use dome top lag bolts that cant be undone from the top.