As I plumber watching this. I would suggest you invest in a 4-6 inch test ball from a plumbing supply house and a couple extension hoses. Would be a lot safer and easier to seal the well from debris falling in.
One thing I like seeing when I'm watching some RUclips is a smart man bud you stick with it and remember what pops learned, you, bud, and you'll go far in life
It's good to see a young man like you abiding by ol' time honor telling customers that you're a man of your word and a handshake will seal the deal. Thanks for another great video. Thank you.
@DS-ss7vl what a salty Sally. Even if he did, this video is nearly a year old and so is the comment. Hope you're having a better day today than you were then.
The education your Father gave you and the business development of your company is worth far more than the majority of college educations that have cost so many young people 6 figures. It's good hard work you are doing and you should be proud to have such a parent. My hat is off to your Father and Mother, your family and all who work with you in this line at your company. Fantastic. Great job on your videos, content and all the information you provide. Please keep it coming. God bless.
who ever drilled the well did a piss poor job of back filling the angular space (outside of casing) i always left the drill (rock cuttings) fill in behind the casing, they pack so tight most times it is impossible to pull the casing back out. makes a excellent seal. if you would have installed a pitless adapter at the depth where the line goes into the house you would not have had to piss with the cement rings.AHYHOW ill give you a A you did a good job and you seem to be a guy who would not screw his customer's.
By the looks of the clay and your accent sounds like my vist to a school bus manufacturer in High Point . I had a similar issue and it was disturbing, the original owner didn't have an problem but as th second owner of this 12 year old house a heavy rainy season showed its ugly problem including adding a liner. Great job guys.
I love this video so much!!! I googled you all and you're in Ohio. I'm in NC so you all are far from me but I could damn sure use your help so much!!! Our well is close to 30 years old and we have had muddy water going on and yes especially after heavy rains. Dumbasses down here cannot seem to fix the problem but I bet you all could fix it! Thank you for the video!!! God bless!
Man I wish you were in my area. I have a large diameter concrete casing well that gets muddy after every rain. I can see runoff water going in about 12 feet down. I've had three plumbing companies look at it, and nobody knows how to fix it. You mentioned using a liner. I think that could be my solution. Thanks for the video. You're a master.
Always factual and meaningful content. Makes me wanna take the proper courses, go out and buy a Well Drilling truck and do this myself. Great to see the guy you learned from as well. \o
Best go do a week or a month with a driller in your area seeing then how the wells are made size, depth, rock, unconsolidated with screens how much they produce do they flow. Lots to know things can go bad in a heartbeat and depending on rigs needed etc and tooling the costs to get set up might blow your mind cheap might be -$50K or $500K+ might be needed.
Now a days a drill truck probably 750,000 or a million, I just bought and ditch witch Jt 30 hdd drill and it was 430,000 with trailer and location equipment
U got a new sub. I just want to say I like the content and info it's been hard to find information on some of this stuff that Is reliable. Had a problem with my well and had a service call and was told that my pump was failing pressure tank control box were all bad. Only did the pressure tank and control box to get water restored. We had been dealing with the low pressure since the purchase of the house so was surprised that it was even lower than it was prior to the issue and even though he pulled out the pump he didn't chlorinate the well. So we dealt with the low pressure for a couple of years but I finally found some info on shocking the well with a ton of chlorine fixing the issues we have. Slimy rusty stuff low pressure and funny smell. So I decided that before I was going to condemn the pump to give this a try. It worked way better than expected obviously the pressure didn't change but I found out that the service tech installed a lower pressure switch and is why I was confused about the pump failure don't get me wrong the pump is not the best and isn't big enough to keep up with the flow but that is a different issue and don't mean it's bad. It cleared out my pipes increase in flow and I went for gold and cranked up the pressure switch and have been at it for a year+ now with it set at 70/50 and everything has been working great. Should I be worried about the pressure setting at this point or being everything is great no leaks ECT leave it and keep running till the pump finally lets go
I'm curious how / if you were able to verify that the casing was intact the rest of the way down. I got a good laugh at how fast you were ale to pull that pump, compared to my 900' deep well!
900ft whats your gpm hopefully 1000 gpm anything less at that depth is just disappointing to install or drill and a lot of money for a little bit of water. In my professional opinion
For 1980 that was some extremely lazy casing install. If it fell in after cutting it would not have been that hard to fish it out and do it proper. The fact they did it twice boggles my mind, the casing is actually in really good shape so I doubt it rusted out the threads. The concrete pad was the cincher. Their intent was obviously to try to stabilize the top of the casing that was just resting on the coupler. But in reality that kept that top part unable to settle with the lower part.
I have a fear that I am looking at the same problem at my house that was built in 1983. Been in the house for 15 years and withing the last year we are getting all kinds of debris and clay in our well water. I put a whole home filter on it and it plugged a 2-month filter in 2 1/2 weeks.
So irritating that people do work like that original job. It is so much easier to do it right the first time, and everybody in between is so much happier.
I have the same problem, but my well is only 40 feet deep and 3 feet wide. The casing is made of 13 concrete pipes and when it rains the water gets dirty. Also, I realized that rain washes away the dirt around the casing so now I have 5 or so inches of space between casing and the soil. What can I expect in the future?
What's the ground makeup the soil layers etc is there a well log on the construction how is it back filled around the casing what is the static level does the water come in from the bottom material is there a gravel pack etc. lots of questions and variables I know then who was the driller how many gpm do it produce ?
Just curious if you have water tank tailers to keep homes supplied while working on their systems. Hooking up thru a hose bib after the main shut off valve
You could put a flat chisel on your sds hammer drill and jack hammer alot of that dirt out into the pit and not have to dig quite so much with the shovel and maybe save some dirt going into the hole
I totally lost by this. I have worked Colorado water wells for decades. We always used steel pipe casings cemented into place. New holes need min 40 foot casings. Then I saw a number of your wells with pipes coming out the top of the well head. We used pitiless adapters 5 feet down. It’s strange seeing wells where the casing is plastic and wiggles about. Is this the standard for your part of the country?
Thanks a bunch. It was a great tip to find out if a concrete is put around the casing, in time it can move. Something which I was contemplating on doing here in Uganda. This video was a great help to deter me from putting a concrete slab around the casing. I just got a new borehole machine for my voluntary project in Uganda helping villagers with clean water. I was about to start the first borehole but ran out of time on my air ticket. I'm heading back to TX then back again to start the first borehole using a submersible pump. Other villages where there is no electric, I'll be using a hand pump. Do I have to flush the borehole before installing a submersible pump? Many thanks for sharing your very valuable experience with us. For me your work and advise is a rating of 12 out 10
Once you drill the well, you can install the pump & flush the well by allowing it to pump for 30+ mins. Itll allow fresh water to flow in & hopefully the water becomes clear.
@@h2omechanic Many thanks, your response is greatly appreciated. I'll give it a try as you suggested on my return from TX. Is Polymer necessary to use in order to avoid borehole cave in? Here they mention it when drilling but not when dug by hand. I am about 8 km from a lake which is about 10 square meters and about 3 meters deep. I have not heard you mention in any of your videos. Someone here gave me an advise to buy a 7 inch drill bit and use 5 inch casing. I bought a 7 inch tricone drill bit for use on tough rocks. Not having started the first borehole with a new machine and having watched your videos, now I'm wondering if I can use a 4 inch casing instead since I already have a 7 inch drill bit. So using a 4 inch casing for both hand pump and submersible pump, will it work? Many thanks again
Wondering if you could recommend what well pump I should install-the data plate says the well is 145ft deep-static water level is 40ft and the yield is 10 GPM.
@@MargeSchott420 Hey Rone, 120v and 230v are single phase; thinking you have three wires, with 120vac to ground on two of the wires and poss 0v on the other, which would be a ground wire. If you read the two "hot" wires to each other, you may find you have 230vac between them.
What a half-assed installation. I would bet that clay soil swells and shrinks with every rain and hard frost. That concrete pad had been moving around for years.
Nice Job, the only thing I would have done differently is before you plumbed back up the well, turn back on the breaker and let it flush the dirt/bleach out before sending all that junk back into their home to clog up their sediment filters.
How is the coupler sealed to the steel casing? I understand it's cemented w/ PVC cement to the PVC casing. And do you sell those on your website? Always interesting to see the options to repair different issues you run into.
It's essentially a weak compression fit. A semi-flexible material is tightly fit (the hammering forces it around and seats it) around an inflexible pipe, so it's like attaching a hard radiator hose. The 4" pipe itself is not under pressure, it's only a conduit for the pump and smaller pipe it is attached to. All you need is a seal tight enough to resist the fairly low pressure of the ground water attempting to seep in, which that fitting will do, and any seepage attempting to go through that tight fit will self-seal with particulate. That's a good "quick" fix for a fairly serious problem of half-assery done 40 years ago.
Good job a union would be a little easier to take apart the line when ready to pull the pump and I hate to say it but that well is perty much done. Hopefully it can still produce at least 5gpm after the liner 🌊⛲👍👌✌️💯
Love to see you teaching a hand how to get shit done right and not overstepping even telling your dad “he’s good” and letting him give it a try shows some maturity that I can only hope to obtain in my future 🫡
I have the same problem except I have a 4 inch plastic pipe for a casing. 1/3 of the dirt around the casing is gone. about 1.5 inches away from casing. A piece of dirt fell in and I could hear it hit the water. I guess i cannot use bennonite casue it will just go down into the water. Any suggestions?
Can you pour rubbing alcohol down the well to sanitize and then pump it out the garden hose afterwards?, or does the chlorine pool shock the only thing to use?
😢This would have been devastating at my buddy's house as his wells about 300 ft down and is being infiltrated by natural gas, the sparks from the grinder would have ignited the gas in a big fireball
If you knew it's like a 20 percent chance it fixes the issue.....why not go ahead and run the liner down the well?? That would be 100 percent fix right??
So a liner was my recommendation, but the casing didn't line up so I could install it. So this had to be done first. Secondly it's a money issue. He had to borrow money for this part, we discussed a liner to be installed in the future. He called after 3 days of rain & said it didn't get dirty and to hold off on scheduling the liner. I can only offer the recommendation, its up to the owner if he wants to pay for the service
Jesus that's a muddy ass well. Have you fellas ever installed HDPE well casing? It's not quite as straightforward to work as PVC but it's a lot more resistant to cracking and all that. And you can get it in *crazy* lengths.
Lining wont fix water contamination unless you are grouting/sealing between the outer pipe and the liner. Is that what they will do? Seems to me the better decision is to dig another ten feet down and seal the broken joint.
they have a special seal they put on the end of the liner. looks like a ribbed pine cone or something. it has multiple rings that press against the steel casing and seals to it at the bottom.
Knowing the well pipe is cracked and all the steps you’ll just did to save the well as is! Why the hell not run the water straight out the pipe at the well to purge the dirty water before putting a garden hose valve? Then run the water at the house for around 5-10min to purge the water line to the house. Then run water to purge all the water lines for the water heater, kitchen, bathroom and laundry room!
![Gucci Mane & Sexyy Red - You Don't Love Me [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/j7IBqyFKT4c/mqdefault.jpg)
As I plumber watching this. I would suggest you invest in a 4-6 inch test ball from a plumbing supply house and a couple extension hoses. Would be a lot safer and easier to seal the well from debris falling in.
It would have been avoided if the ones who put the well in did the job right. Threads with Treads, not just sitting on another pipe without Threads.
Good idea.
Exactly an inflatable pig would make it idiot proof...
@@Lord_KnightMarethere are times when we all have to fix stuff that was installed incorrectly. You know the cheapest bid wins the job.
@ashleywynn4923 as an electrician it gets scary seeing how the lowest bidder managed to make money 😂
You seem to be a real man of his word! Because our WORD and standing behind it is all we really have that is TRULY OURS IN THIS WORLD!
❤❤❤❤❤!
You're a good man, knowledgeable, workmanlike, and honest. Your clients are lucky to have you.
One thing I like seeing when I'm watching some RUclips is a smart man bud you stick with it and remember what pops learned, you, bud, and you'll go far in life
It's good to see a young man like you abiding by ol' time honor telling customers that you're a man of your word and a handshake will seal the deal. Thanks for another great video. Thank you.
He did that shit for the camera.
@DS-ss7vl what a salty Sally. Even if he did, this video is nearly a year old and so is the comment. Hope you're having a better day today than you were then.
The education your Father gave you and the business development of your company is worth far more than the majority of college educations that have cost so many young people 6 figures. It's good hard work you are doing and you should be proud to have such a parent. My hat is off to your Father and Mother, your family and all who work with you in this line at your company. Fantastic. Great job on your videos, content and all the information you provide. Please keep it coming. God bless.
This was a clever solution to a potentially challenging problem! Minimum expense for the homeowner but a properly done job.
who ever drilled the well did a piss poor job of back filling the angular space (outside of casing) i always left the drill (rock cuttings) fill in behind the casing, they pack so tight most times it is impossible to pull the casing back out. makes a excellent seal. if you would have installed a pitless adapter at the depth where the line goes into the house you would not have had to piss with the cement rings.AHYHOW ill give you a A you did a good job and you seem to be a guy who would not screw his customer's.
Pitless adaptors are great, its just not very common for us down south.
Once you get to far north VA and above you start running into pitless.
qqqq
😊
Annular space, not angular.
Thanks for part 2.
By the looks of the clay and your accent sounds like my vist to a school bus manufacturer in High Point .
I had a similar issue and it was disturbing, the original owner didn't have an problem but as th second owner of this 12 year old house a heavy rainy season showed its ugly problem including adding a liner.
Great job guys.
I love this video so much!!! I googled you all and you're in Ohio. I'm in NC so you all are far from me but I could damn sure use your help so much!!! Our well is close to 30 years old and we have had muddy water going on and yes especially after heavy rains. Dumbasses down here cannot seem to fix the problem but I bet you all could fix it! Thank you for the video!!! God bless!
He’s in VA
I believe he is in south central VA. Maybe not so far from you.
Man I wish you were in my area. I have a large diameter concrete casing well that gets muddy after every rain. I can see runoff water going in about 12 feet down. I've had three plumbing companies look at it, and nobody knows how to fix it. You mentioned using a liner. I think that could be my solution. Thanks for the video. You're a master.
There's no fixing your bored well. They work using surface water.
You must use big filters or drill a drilled well.
@H2o Mechanic Thanks H2o Mechanic! Bummer.
Love the videos, I have a well I put a lot of money in. So, watching these videos help a lot.
Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
I keep learning from your videos. Thank you!😊🙏🏾🌿
Another great professional job by an honest man. Happy new year!
Great diagnosis and execution.
That Holeplug is mined, and packaged in my town. I used to be a welder for them.
I had a well drilled in Mass. in 1977 with 6" steel casing they welded the joints.
Always factual and meaningful content. Makes me wanna take the proper courses, go out and buy a Well Drilling truck and do this myself. Great to see the guy you learned from as well. \o
Best go do a week or a month with a driller in your area seeing then how the wells are made size, depth, rock, unconsolidated with screens how much they produce do they flow. Lots to know things can go bad in a heartbeat and depending on rigs needed etc and tooling the costs to get set up might blow your mind cheap might be -$50K or $500K+ might be needed.
@@stevelalondejr2183 Woah. I figure that truck would be expensive.
Now a days a drill truck probably 750,000 or a million, I just bought and ditch witch Jt 30 hdd drill and it was 430,000 with trailer and location equipment
@@Drewdayz2419Damn not even an 18 wheeler wrecker costs that much
Fantastic video. Your work definitely deserves to be documented as you do. Thanks
U got a new sub. I just want to say I like the content and info it's been hard to find information on some of this stuff that Is reliable. Had a problem with my well and had a service call and was told that my pump was failing pressure tank control box were all bad. Only did the pressure tank and control box to get water restored. We had been dealing with the low pressure since the purchase of the house so was surprised that it was even lower than it was prior to the issue and even though he pulled out the pump he didn't chlorinate the well. So we dealt with the low pressure for a couple of years but I finally found some info on shocking the well with a ton of chlorine fixing the issues we have. Slimy rusty stuff low pressure and funny smell. So I decided that before I was going to condemn the pump to give this a try. It worked way better than expected obviously the pressure didn't change but I found out that the service tech installed a lower pressure switch and is why I was confused about the pump failure don't get me wrong the pump is not the best and isn't big enough to keep up with the flow but that is a different issue and don't mean it's bad. It cleared out my pipes increase in flow and I went for gold and cranked up the pressure switch and have been at it for a year+ now with it set at 70/50 and everything has been working great. Should I be worried about the pressure setting at this point or being everything is great no leaks ECT leave it and keep running till the pump finally lets go
Leave it alone & keep running it.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Very interesting!!! Thanks for taking the time to share your expertise!
Great to see someone instructing a person on how to do the job, and not demonstrating, the learner learns so much better and quicker
Another Awesome Job.
Great job, I learned something.
Very interesting and very well explained. I have definitely learned a few things.
Great job, good solution, but why is there such poor pressure and volume from the hose afterward? Should be gushing...
Great job! Thanks for making the video!
I'm curious how / if you were able to verify that the casing was intact the rest of the way down. I got a good laugh at how fast you were ale to pull that pump, compared to my 900' deep well!
900ft whats your gpm hopefully 1000 gpm anything less at that depth is just disappointing to install or drill and a lot of money for a little bit of water. In my professional opinion
Nice work!
Ok it’s been a few months since you posted this video. Can you give us a update? Did you have to put a liner in it?
For 1980 that was some extremely lazy casing install. If it fell in after cutting it would not have been that hard to fish it out and do it proper. The fact they did it twice boggles my mind, the casing is actually in really good shape so I doubt it rusted out the threads. The concrete pad was the cincher. Their intent was obviously to try to stabilize the top of the casing that was just resting on the coupler. But in reality that kept that top part unable to settle with the lower part.
Nice job.
Do you not like using primer before solvent welding the pipe
Nice fix!
My well was installed in 1994 at 335'. The pump quit in 2017. Not bad.
I have a fear that I am looking at the same problem at my house that was built in 1983. Been in the house for 15 years and withing the last year we are getting all kinds of debris and clay in our well water. I put a whole home filter on it and it plugged a 2-month filter in 2 1/2 weeks.
You're so close to 100k subscribers!!
Why don’t you have an air bladder to drop in and inflate to keep junk from falling down the well?
So irritating that people do work like that original job. It is so much easier to do it right the first time, and everybody in between is so much happier.
Need a follow up. Like to know how things panned out.
Cherne makes inflatable test plugs that would be handy, and some end of pipe expandable wingnut plugs
I have the same problem, but my well is only 40 feet deep and 3 feet wide. The casing is made of 13 concrete pipes and when it rains the water gets dirty. Also, I realized that rain washes away the dirt around the casing so now I have 5 or so inches of space between casing and the soil. What can I expect in the future?
What's the ground makeup the soil layers etc is there a well log on the construction how is it back filled around the casing what is the static level does the water come in from the bottom material is there a gravel pack etc. lots of questions and variables I know then who was the driller how many gpm do it produce ?
Getting sick
Just curious if you have water tank tailers to keep homes supplied while working on their systems. Hooking up thru a hose bib after the main shut off valve
You could put a flat chisel on your sds hammer drill and jack hammer alot of that dirt out into the pit and not have to dig quite so much with the shovel and maybe save some dirt going into the hole
Good job,
How long does a liner last? What’s the liner cost like compared to digging/drilling a new well?
should have a rubber bladder you could slip into the pipe, inflate it to make a seal to minimize stuff falling in
Saving a dime , not lining that now, is asking for big problems later. Hope he gets lucky.
I totally lost by this. I have worked Colorado water wells for decades. We always used steel pipe casings cemented into place. New holes need min 40 foot casings. Then I saw a number of your wells with pipes coming out the top of the well head. We used pitiless adapters 5 feet down. It’s strange seeing wells where the casing is plastic and wiggles about. Is this the standard for your part of the country?
Why did the original installer not seal that pipe with bentonite?
Thanks a bunch. It was a great tip to find out if a concrete is put around the casing, in time it can move. Something which I was contemplating on doing here in Uganda. This video was a great help to deter me from putting a concrete slab around the casing. I just got a new borehole machine for my voluntary project in Uganda helping villagers with clean water. I was about to start the first borehole but ran out of time on my air ticket. I'm heading back to TX then back again to start the first borehole using a submersible pump. Other villages where there is no electric, I'll be using a hand pump. Do I have to flush the borehole before installing a submersible pump? Many thanks for sharing your very valuable experience with us. For me your work and advise is a rating of 12 out 10
Once you drill the well, you can install the pump & flush the well by allowing it to pump for 30+ mins. Itll allow fresh water to flow in & hopefully the water becomes clear.
@@h2omechanic Many thanks, your response is greatly appreciated. I'll give it a try as you suggested on my return from TX. Is Polymer necessary to use in order to avoid borehole cave in? Here they mention it when drilling but not when dug by hand. I am about 8 km from a lake which is about 10 square meters and about 3 meters deep. I have not heard you mention in any of your videos. Someone here gave me an advise to buy a 7 inch drill bit and use 5 inch casing. I bought a 7 inch tricone drill bit for use on tough rocks. Not having started the first borehole with a new machine and having watched your videos, now I'm wondering if I can use a 4 inch casing instead since I already have a 7 inch drill bit. So using a 4 inch casing for both hand pump and submersible pump, will it work? Many thanks again
@@umojacleanwater yes alot of people use 4" casing. It's different from region to region.
What kind of water well completion would you prefer? Is it open hole completion? Or hole bearing with water source with perforated casing?
Could you not use those inflatable drain test bags to block the bore entirely while you're digging?
What area do you work in? I couldn't find that information. I need to find someone to do this. Nice job!
You could make an air bladder for that type of situation. I bet you could make one out of an ordinary cleanout bladder.
stick a bag or bedsheet down there ,,,works great for stopping dirt
Wondering if you could recommend what well pump I should install-the data plate says the well is 145ft deep-static water level is 40ft and the yield is 10 GPM.
I have a 180 ft. deep / static 30ft. / 7 GPM.. I use a 1/2 HP Franklin Electric 120 volt 3 phase wire..Works great!
@@MargeSchott420 Thanks!
@@MargeSchott420 Hey Rone, 120v and 230v are single phase; thinking you have three wires, with 120vac to ground on two of the wires and poss 0v on the other, which would be a ground wire. If you read the two "hot" wires to each other, you may find you have 230vac between them.
Do y'all not use a small mirror next to your temple to shine sunlight down the tube while you're looking down it?
You said a metal liner should last 50 years. How long should a plastic/pvc liner last? Wouldn’t a plastic/PVC liner get brittle with age?
Was there ever a part 3?
So did you end up lining it?
What a half-assed installation. I would bet that clay soil swells and shrinks with every rain and hard frost. That concrete pad had been moving around for years.
Hammer drill with a spade bit is the best thing to hand dig hard clay if you ever need too
Nice Job, the only thing I would have done differently is before you plumbed back up the well, turn back on the breaker and let it flush the dirt/bleach out before sending all that junk back into their home to clog up their sediment filters.
is it broke down lower?
At the end, when the hose is running, can you smell the chlorine and will it kill the grass?
Doubtful, city folks would all have dead grass if that were the case.
Why not use an inflating PIG ball. Long air line and a string and your set.
Where did you get the metal to pvc transition
My drilling supply company.
How is the coupler sealed to the steel casing? I understand it's cemented w/ PVC cement to the PVC casing. And do you sell those on your website? Always interesting to see the options to repair different issues you run into.
It's essentially a weak compression fit. A semi-flexible material is tightly fit (the hammering forces it around and seats it) around an inflexible pipe, so it's like attaching a hard radiator hose. The 4" pipe itself is not under pressure, it's only a conduit for the pump and smaller pipe it is attached to. All you need is a seal tight enough to resist the fairly low pressure of the ground water attempting to seep in, which that fitting will do, and any seepage attempting to go through that tight fit will self-seal with particulate. That's a good "quick" fix for a fairly serious problem of half-assery done 40 years ago.
A foreign concept to most places. "" It is only one xxx?? thing "" Ya heard that excess too often.
Good job a union would be a little easier to take apart the line when ready to pull the pump and I hate to say it but that well is perty much done. Hopefully it can still produce at least 5gpm after the liner 🌊⛲👍👌✌️💯
Awesome
That soil looks like red Oklahoma clay!
Damn, that was some serious clay.
Did you make your well wheel?
Love to see you teaching a hand how to get shit done right and not overstepping even telling your dad “he’s good” and letting him give it a try shows some maturity that I can only hope to obtain in my future 🫡
Hey, Can i get a brass elbow ,6 -1 inch SS hose clamps ,and a 4 inch ADS well seal from you or can you tell me where to get them ? Thank you! Kevin F
Hwdracing@gmail.com send me a email with what you need & I'll get you a price for what you need. Email is best for personal information
I have the same problem except I have a 4 inch plastic pipe for a casing. 1/3 of the dirt around the casing is gone. about 1.5 inches away from casing. A piece of dirt fell in and I could hear it hit the water. I guess i cannot use bennonite casue it will just go down into the water.
Any suggestions?
Call a well company! Fix it before it gets unusable
Is that casing supposed to be that loose? Looks that would indicate another slipped joint or broken casing.
Yup, another broke joint around 40ft. Only a liner could truly fix that
Recently I been planting shrubs in that red clay. It's like concrete. I see him punch that shovel and it just chips off a small bite.
Use a digging bar
So it is not fixed normally at your base, it will still get dirt into the well
Can you pour rubbing alcohol down the well to sanitize and then pump it out the garden hose afterwards?, or does the chlorine pool shock the only thing to use?
Never introduced an explosive substance into a confined area. Chlorine is very good as a disinfectant.
@@nelsondog100 yes i used pool chlorine to sanitize the well, I realized that it’s not a good idea to use isopropyl Alcohol as it’s flammable, hehee..
@@highspeedboom lol yeah you don't want that in your drinking water.....
Hydrogen peroxide is an excellent purifying I use food grade 35%
The concrete around the casing where I’m from the frost will pull the casing up and unseal it’s self
Well thank god the rest of us do not live there .
Dammit ! Why am I addicted to this shit ?
😢This would have been devastating at my buddy's house as his wells about 300 ft down and is being infiltrated by natural gas, the sparks from the grinder would have ignited the gas in a big fireball
Which state are you located in?
If you knew it's like a 20 percent chance it fixes the issue.....why not go ahead and run the liner down the well?? That would be 100 percent fix right??
So a liner was my recommendation, but the casing didn't line up so I could install it. So this had to be done first. Secondly it's a money issue. He had to borrow money for this part, we discussed a liner to be installed in the future. He called after 3 days of rain & said it didn't get dirty and to hold off on scheduling the liner. I can only offer the recommendation, its up to the owner if he wants to pay for the service
@@h2omechanicAll this time later, did the bentonite keep it sealed? Great channel. Calmly explaining everything as you go is key.
Jesus that's a muddy ass well.
Have you fellas ever installed HDPE well casing? It's not quite as straightforward to work as PVC but it's a lot more resistant to cracking and all that. And you can get it in *crazy* lengths.
Lining wont fix water contamination unless you are grouting/sealing between the outer pipe and the liner. Is that what they will do?
Seems to me the better decision is to dig another ten feet down and seal the broken joint.
they have a special seal they put on the end of the liner. looks like a ribbed pine cone or something. it has multiple rings that press against the steel casing and seals to it at the bottom.
I suppose he never opted for the liner or the new pump.
Knowing the well pipe is cracked and all the steps you’ll just did to save the well as is! Why the hell not run the water straight out the pipe at the well to purge the dirty water before putting a garden hose valve?
Then run the water at the house for around 5-10min to purge the water line to the house. Then run water to purge all the water lines for the water heater, kitchen, bathroom and laundry room!
No bentonite was harmed during the making of this video.
Seems is still loose deep there so probably still has water going in.
digging clay with a shovel. thats funny
Wear gloves, man! Take care of your self! Thx for video 😊
Fix the solution.
😆 yea I noticed that too lol
You should be pouring concrete around that hole, doesn't look like it was done
Won’t chlorine kill the septic?
nope not if you don't go crazy with it. the chlorine will mostly be used up by the time it hits the septic.
@@rustblade5021 I’m still sceptical