You should do the finish pass in the other direction. ...don't know how its called in engl. It protects you from chips getting under the tool, increases the tool lifetime a lot and allows a higher feedrate by same surfacequality. Only when u have a very unstable millingmachine you should prefer it in this direction (counter rotation??? don't know if thats the right word).
Sure! Just working on my 4th now. This is much easier than just using my 2 axis Prototrak . Although you see the Prototrak used for a second op in the video while the Milltronics is running behind me.
It's a repeat function where I only program the first part then tell the control what grid to repeat the program. The machine starts at X0Y0 for each individual part.
good afternoon. And why don't you use a combined drilling tool? This would make it possible to make both a hole and a cap at once, and if it is made of a hard alloy, then you can also abandon the centering drill, this would help reduce the time for production.
Short run of 80 pieces. Had HSS drills & countersink in hand. If I had to make 10,000, then I'd start spending money on a carbide form tool first as that would cut the most time off the part. I'm not working at someone's shop.
The CNC is in the description. I made form cutter from a 2 flute HSS keyway cutter using a Last Word Radius Dresser on a Mitsui MSG-205MH/6-18 Surface grinder holding the cutter in a Suburban MG-5CV-S1 Master Grind fixture. I'd rather be using a helical carbide custom made form tool, but I can grind a "flapper" here in my shop just using a $15 end mill that produces a pretty good surface finish cutting 12L14.
Thanks. I didn't read the description before I put the question up, jumped the gun. The tool grinding aspect is something I'd like to get into as well. You saved a lot of time and got a better surface finish with the form tool. If you ever find yourself making another form tool, a video of that would be something I'd love to see. Nearly all of the cutter grinding videos I have found are for lathe or D- bits.
Forgot to add the counter bore is just a screw machine drill with the pilot ground on the above listed equipment and then used a Foredom and a small cutoff wheel to freehand grind the clearance and relief. Usually I make counterbores out of O1, cut 4 flutes with an import collet spin index and then hand file the clearance and relief. The HSS tolling cuts faster and last longer.
Which drill? I'm sure you're right about saving time. But on a run of 80 parts total, how much would it matter? At some point I just needed to make some chips on this dry running machine.
Looks great to me. Always interesting to see how people work out small batches of small parts.
Excellent work and video 👌💪💪
Man, you went about that the hard way!!
Show us a video of you making 80 of these. I'm not afraid to learn something new. Or are you just blowing smoke working out of someone else's shop?
Donal??? how bout a quote for 80
Very nice work and vid, keep it coming!
Love to see an efficient hand written program!
What makes you say that?
@@travistucker7317 What makes me say it's hand written?
@@spikeypineapple552 yes. Look at the z moves at 2:20
@@travistucker7317 yes, it's not dead perfect, but it's still a lot quicker than 90% of CAM programs thrown out there.
@@travistucker7317 I'm guessing it's because theyre going to X0Y0 to change WCS.
Excellent ! subscribed
You should put some more vids on.
You should do the finish pass in the other direction. ...don't know how its called in engl. It protects you from chips getting under the tool, increases the tool lifetime a lot and allows a higher feedrate by same surfacequality. Only when u have a very unstable millingmachine you should prefer it in this direction (counter rotation??? don't know if thats the right word).
Good example of how much more effective 5 axis would be :)
Sure! Just working on my 4th now. This is much easier than just using my 2 axis Prototrak . Although you see the Prototrak used for a second op in the video while the Milltronics is running behind me.
amazing
love it👌
Between 4:00 and 4:09 is there a backlash on the x axis? or just an error on the g code?
no backlash, no error. not sure what your getting at.
It's a repeat function where I only program the first part then tell the control what grid to repeat the program. The machine starts at X0Y0 for each individual part.
More milling vids!
Do you have any idea what kind of cutting conditions a drill and drill can withstand?! You don't have!
有的制程進刀實在慢到不敢恭維！
good afternoon. And why don't you use a combined drilling tool? This would make it possible to make both a hole and a cap at once, and if it is made of a hard alloy, then you can also abandon the centering drill, this would help reduce the time for production.
Short run of 80 pieces. Had HSS drills & countersink in hand. If I had to make 10,000, then I'd start spending money on a carbide form tool first as that would cut the most time off the part. I'm not working at someone's shop.
@@JRgunmaker Then of course you're right, I thought there were much more details
Nice work. What mill are you running these on? Did you make the form cutter?
The CNC is in the description. I made form cutter from a 2 flute HSS keyway cutter using a Last Word Radius Dresser on a Mitsui MSG-205MH/6-18 Surface grinder holding the cutter in a Suburban MG-5CV-S1 Master Grind fixture. I'd rather be using a helical carbide custom made form tool, but I can grind a "flapper" here in my shop just using a $15 end mill that produces a pretty good surface finish cutting 12L14.
Thanks. I didn't read the description before I put the question up, jumped the gun. The tool grinding aspect is something I'd like to get into as well. You saved a lot of time and got a better surface finish with the form tool. If you ever find yourself making another form tool, a video of that would be something I'd love to see. Nearly all of the cutter grinding videos I have found are for lathe or D- bits.
Forgot to add the counter bore is just a screw machine drill with the pilot ground on the above listed equipment and then used a Foredom and a small cutoff wheel to freehand grind the clearance and relief. Usually I make counterbores out of O1, cut 4 flutes with an import collet spin index and then hand file the clearance and relief. The HSS tolling cuts faster and last longer.
Drilling to such a shallow depth, and the drill is pulled out of the hole. For what??? Huge waste of time...
Which drill? I'm sure you're right about saving time. But on a run of 80 parts total, how much would it matter? At some point I just needed to make some chips on this dry running machine.
@@JRgunmaker He must talking about the peck drilling.
Man your running that shit slow
Show me how it's done. I'm not afraid to learn.