Dude! The way you show the Munter Hitch! sooo simple, loved it, Im always struggling to remember it! nice! Thanks for all the rest of the info, you teach it nice and clear!
been climb trees for 20 + years and well i really like your videos fast , easy and clear .. i just happen to stumble across your channel . look fwd to watching more n letting people know about your style of tree climbing fun ..
Hey Tree fool, I must say that I'm surprised to see that no one in the comments section below has brought this up. As a professional arborist I wouldn't recommend using the grigri,which is designed for rock climbing dynamic ropes, on a static line because the forces expressed on the device are greater as the rope is doing less of the absorbing. I'm glad you put the lil disclaimer in there though as you wouldn't wanna be associated with the advice that you're giving out. There are plenty of professional tree climber out there on youtube so I hope others that watch this clip find those also and that you take the time to educate yourself before and accident occurs.
I'm not sure what you are going on about. Direct quote from Petzl's website: "[The grigri] can, however, be used with semi-static ropes in certain situations, such as rappelling. GRIGRI's braking performance with semi-static ropes may vary according to the condition, diameter, and type of rope. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with the device by first carrying out an operating test."
Its say tree full but this was the awesom easy to understand climb best video so far thank you for best climbing teaching sir and cheeper way you explained too this is really best climbing video so far you are awesom !
I found that hanging in the lanyard hurts like shit if ots clipped into the side loops. I use my lanyard in my main loop if I have to hang in it. Standing on a branch the side loops are fine thought.
I am new to tree climbing but I have a grigri but not a hand ascender, I will be using a prusik knot but I am not sure where to clip the carabiner for the brake rend of the grigri and where to clip the carabiner for the foot loop. if anyone could tell me it would be much appreciated. Thanks! excellent video by the way!
Hey thanks for sharing. Im very new to tree climbing, and Im putting my first SRT setup together for saddling hunting. I ordered a grigri plus and a ct quick roll ascender left handed and adjustable foot strap. The quick roll is supposed to have a mechanical advantage. I still dont know what carabiners, or prussiks i need to order, also looking at getting some platinum rope. i read that is good for srt. How am I doing so far? Did I get some good gear?
Nicely done series, thanks! One thing though, I'm thinking it would be a very good idea to set up an Autoblock if one is using only a Munter for descent as you show? Any issue with the control hand and down you go. The Autoblock would save you.
I use the ropeman without teeth (forgot which number this is). Instead it has parallel ridges which are easier on the rope but not as secure (definitely don't use it as a main safety device).
Do you have any recommendations for an ascend system that doesn’t use a grigri? I have a hand ascender, 3pt block pulley, fig8 I’m just having trouble finding a good solution for progress capture. I’m not having luck with my prusik/klemheist tending with my block. I’m new to this. Love the channel! 🤘🏼🤘🏼
I_Dont_Eat_My_Friends, yes but the RADS system is pretty slow relative to some mainstream arborist techniques and using just prusiks to ascend is even slower. Slow to the point that you may quickly loose intrest in climbing the tree. It also makes descending a lot harder which is a safety concern. Don't get me wrong, my first 20 foot climb was with prusiks and i slept in the tree for the night but a grigri is just so much faster and safer. A different option is to buy an arborist rope and use an ascension knot. i believe the knot is called a blakes hitch but then you have to climb drt so the rope slides over the branch instead of srt like in these vids.
Hi TREEfool! I love your videos! Particularly this one! After watching this daily for the past few weeks, I went out and bought the grigri and hand ascender. It's going great! Quick question: people tell me the grigri is not techically rated for going 'hands free' (ex: when at the top of the rope you just climbed for fun, and you're transitioning to descending....) , I'm wondering is it necessary to tie a stopper/safety knot in the tail below the grigri while disconnecting the ascender and pulley and footloop overhead? I've had no issue (while practicing low to the ground) with the gri gri slipping in the least, but I'm just curious what you think/do about this? I've just been un-doing the ascender while holding onto the tail of my rope- even though it would be more convenient to just let the tail go and use both hands freely. Thoughts? (not trying to get you to say anything that could get you in trouble, but mainly just curious if you've ever experienced the grigri 'slip' at all? I've experimented with wiggling around and such, but it is rock solid/safe feeling. Curious what you think about this, and if you have any tricks for added safety? Thanks! I love this climbing system!
First I have to ask what size of rope you are using. The bigger the rope the more readily the grigri will engange. If you are climbing on 11mm+ you have no worries at all about letting go (don't sue me if you die cuz Petzl disagrees with this and you have to do what they say or you will die). Me personally? I use a 9mm rope and go hands free once I have ensured that the device is locked. For example, if I am stepping off a branch to hang on the grigri I DEFINITELY have my hand on the tail until the grigri is 100% locked out. Then I let go and do my work. Again, petzl says you shouldn't due this but after years of this combination I have learned when the grigri slips and when it doesnt. I've had it NOT lock on 7.5 mm rope otherwise the grigri just enganges so damn well that perhaps I have gained too much confidence in it. But once you understand the mechanism of what is stopping the rope from feeding through you will realize that once it is locked onto the rope it is very hard to just randomly disengange unless you are bouncing or the rope diameter is too small.
@@TREEfool Thank you so much! I really appreciate the thorough reply! I've been climbing on a 10mm rope recently, although I'm interested in trying out a 9mm as well, if it also seems to perform well in the system- and it sounds like it does. I finally got around to getting a proper throw sack, and line, and am finding that process SO satisfying (setting a line) :). I'm pretty much doing a 20-30 foot climb every day after work while I get the hang of things. My 10mm line is only 70 feet, so I'll pick up a longer rope before too long. Thanks again for your feedback. I definitely know what you mean by the grigri being 'locked out' and will continue to study and get familiar with that feel.
Hey I love your videos you do great things and all. Any way what is the lanyard attachment that you showed paired with the coulair harness? And where can i find one?
+Tanner Crow I custom built it. I actually considered selling them online until I realized that customers could sue me if they got hurt using a product I built. In other words, you can not purchase them anywhere.
+Benjamin Wong Yes you could. However, if you are continually feeding and pulling rope through the figure-8 you will create lots of unwanted friction on the same exact spot of the lanyard (the tip of the bite) which will ruin your lanyard faster. At some point you will have to decide to replace your lanyard much earlier than if you just used a rappel ring.
Thanks TREEfool. Good point. I'm actually having a tough time trying to find aluminum belay rings in locally in Toronto hence my question about omitting the ring. I will see if I can find another affordable solution and use a locking biner in the mean time.
+Benjamin Wong Quick link could be easier to find and dirt cheap substitute. That's what I use for clipping the rope up on an isolated rope instead of a carabiner.
+hoggif Thanks for the reply! I ended up using stainless steel descending ring instead. Kinda heavy and ugly since It's a welded ring but it's rated to 50kN. I'm willing to sacrifice the weight savings for safety :-)
I don’t understand how to attach myself to the lanyard and get rid of the gri-gri when I put all my weight on the lanyard it’s just impossible not have tension in the gri-gri rope... I miss something
Ellis Stuart I would argue that it is safer for recreational climbing. If you have slack in your line ( which should be avoided) and you fall there is some shock absorption which doesnt happen on a static line. So yes, dynamic ropes are safe to use but less efficient.
I'm interested in tree climbing and want to use the RAD system shown in this video. I'm right handed so would I buy a right ascender or a left ascender? Thanks.
+Stratton Carr I am right handed and I feel more comfortable using the hand ascender in my left hand and pulling on the rope with my right hand. But I also use my right hand on the ascender sometimes just to mix it up.
Tree fool nice video.ive been climbing for 17yrs and alot of things have changed. Some harnesses dont have weight bering side rings, they are for positioning only. I see you have run a tapesling between yours. Is that why?
I understand but,...Ehhh.. how do you tie the rope 50 feet up on the tree? Are you usin some sort of a grappling tool?? And how do you get your rope down from there afterwards? Yes i am a newbie :)
Check out the first video to see how he gets the rope rigged up, and for getting it down you would either use a tag line or have both ends on the ground, and then just pull it down.
How come nobody uses a totally second line for backup? Even repelling lines are one rope draped over a pulley so it looks like two ropes but it's still one rope and if you cut it guess where you'll end up? So how come nobody uses two roped and that would appear like you're using four lines?
+Howie Waldenmeyer ... Here is the Sterling HTP Snake Bite in 10mm from SherrilTree:www.sherrilltree.com/HTP-Snakebite-Green-Static-Line-10mm#.Vj93KumFP4g
Hi my friend, I subscribed to your channel, you know I'm new to this and I need to cut a big pine (30 meters) and I want to buy those accessories to go up, you know where I can find at not so high price??.... Good video ✌️
+Greg Welsh ...Yes, I use an 8mm cord for my adjustable lanyard. I chose 9mm for my short/simple lanyard so that I can repurpose it as a portaledge anchor on super light tree camping trips (meaning, I only bring one piece of cord instead of two).
+Greg Welsh And yes, a ring is MUCH stronger and you don't have to worry about the gate coming open. However, I usually use a biner because it allows for very fast tie-in-point advancements (see the third video to understand what I mean).
Always try to judge a landyard by its rating. Get stuff that is or above 22kn. Your krabs should also be 22kn in a downward pull. Ropes also loose strength when knotted so the stronger the better. Also be careful how it works when heated. A kevlar rope for a friction knot would be a bad idea.
It varies greatly. I use an adjustable foot loop (just a cam buckle and webbing that I bought at home depot). When I am climbing fast I like to make it shorter for a larger step up but when I am climbing with a bunch of weight I make it longer to give me better leverage. Just get a piece of webbing and re-tie the knot at different lengths to see what you prefer.
hi i was wondering if you could use a grigri and a prusik chord rather than a hand ascender and foot loop or would it be best to use a hand ascender and a foot loop.
thank you ever so much i have basic climbing gear so i'll only need bits and bobs, thanks for the fast response. keep up the amazing work and congrats on becoming a father
Sorry late comment Is it ok to use a dynamic rope whilst getting started in tree climbing. And also does the ascender not damage the rope or is that just me. Thanks
+Oliver Oddie When you are starting you can use a dynamic rope to save money. It is just less efficient. An ascender should not damage a rope as long as you are not putting dynamic loads on the ascender. But to be honest, I am not the person who should be answering a question about rope wear as I only have anecdotal evidence to go off of.
+TREEfool thanks. I mainly do indoor climbing or trad with my dad and I really want to get into tree climbing I am really interested I want to try out the budget rads whilst on holiday in Skye this coming week I am saving up for a ascender but for now I will stick to learning the rad set up using a prussic loop. Thanks for the help
Quick question: is it ok to use what essentially is a belay device (Grigri) as a descender? Yes, they are very similar functions ... still ... not the same :)
A GriGri is a descender and belay device. Does not have the heat dissipation of some larger devices but for regular short raps is just great. Best lightweight progress capture device for hauling systems too.
Just google petzl ascension. Petzl is the brand and Ascension is the model. If you are looking for instruction and don't have it locally I would search for an arborist convention near your city and start there.
If you are going to use dynamic rope in a belay senario then it is great. You can Free climb up using strops and carabiners to make anchor points. However if you ascend the rope over a 30ft distance the stretch will be a disadvantage.
+Ryan Rodlund ...In the video the rappel ring is tied on with a simple overhand on a bite. A figure 8 on a bite would be even stronger for this purpose.
@@JustJimJr , That blows my mind that the Gregory can handle such a wide range of rope sizes so smoothly. Just one of the many reasons why I recommend everyone owns a gris-gris even if they don't use a RADS.
great videos, but it wouldn't be recommended to use a grigri as you do. It's not an autobrake system. To use grigri, I think you would doubled your security system with a knot like prussik, or replace the grigri by descender like the oetzl i'D. Otherwize , I like your videos, because they are short , and very comprehensive.
+john mccampbell Rig would work similar to a grigri. However, it is rated for larger ropes of 10.5-11.5mm only. On the other hand rig/id have a locked position which I really like. Unweighted grigri does not always catch you unless you hold the end of the rope for extra friction. So, falling to a not weighted grigri can be a disaster.
+Filip Šorli My grigri hasn't failed on me either (yet) but it is known to happen when not holding the end and it has been unweighted. This can happen easily when you need too hands for example to pass some brances or whatever. My ID seems to catch not as easily as my Grigri with thinner ropes but you're able to lock it. With grigi a good practice is to tie backup knot(s). Some other similar devices like Camp Matic seem very prone to not catching if not holding the end which is why one should test out in safe environment how the device works with any perticular rope you're using.
Im looking to for a simple easy system to get up and down mine shafts. It will be a straight drop down. Can anyone write a short list of equiptment im going to need.. i have a budget of around 800. I need to get this right cuz if i dont im going to be stuck down a mine shaft in the middle of the desert lol
I'm intrigued, you are doing this for fun and not work? For $800 you can make a pretty awesome setup but I don't think you should dive into a mine, alone, until you get enough experience to know what gear you'll actually need. But I'm terrible at playing it safe myself and always do things way before I have the appropriate amount of experience 😉
Im doing it because i mine opal for a hobbie. Im building a scaffold tower at the top with a landing pad the shafts are only a couple meters wide. me and a mate are going we will be telling people where we are so if we aint back on time people will come help us. Ive got an assender and decender in mind and a sports harness ive sussed all options. If we loose equiptment ill use a hitch to get up the rope. Single rope. I was a scaffolder for years so i do have rope and harness experience. One way or the other im going to make it work. Ill make sure i practice a shit load before i go. I want good opal its the only way.
Do not trust grigri in 100% it slacks sometimes and doesnt brake and you can hit the ground!!! Tie slip konts while climbing on the line. I would also recommend tying a prusik hitch on the rope coming out of The grigri. It will be working as an aditional brake, and you can easly descend with it. CLIMB SAFE
This. The grigri is a belay device, not a locking descender. Never let go of the brake strand. You should tie it off before going hands off. I agree that a "third hand" autoblock would make it safer. Still, not an ascender, not a locking descender (e.g. see the Croll and the Rig).
A micro traction, or similar, instead of the pully on the ascension would also be a good idea to back up he grigri, still then relying a bit too much on the ascension though. A Rig would be better than a GriGri. And not much more. An ID would also be good, better still, but much bigger and much more expensive.
+Josh Porter You are correct. HOWEVER! When you are new to tree climbing there will be many times where you are stuck hanging in your harness for long periods of time. If you use a tree harness this will not be a problem because they are built with wide leg loops and back support specifically for that purpose. If you use a rock climbing harness the tiny leg loops will slow the circulation to your legs and you will need to constantly move and adjust them so that your feet don't go numb (it is very uncomfortable at times and the heavier you are the worse this will get).
+TREEfool Cool. I'll try the rock one first to make sure I like it, since there is quite the price difference in the two harnesses. If I like it I can always buy the better harness. Great videos man!
we do this Kind of different here :) First of all we always do a safety-belay-system on the ground so if you blackout or something happens up in the tree, someone else can Belay u from the ground - easy to do and a lot safer. Second Point we do different is, that we use a double grip ascender with a footloop on leftfoot, a simple ropestopper on your chest for your safety and a foot-rope-ascender on your right foot. So you can climb up way faster. For the Descent we use a petzl I-D-S that we install when we are on top of the tree. Simply install it, Pull yourself up one more time and undo the chest-rope-ascender. So you're hanging in your belaydevice and you're ready to go down. Cost a lot more cause of an extra GRIGRI 2 (at the bottom), the double Ascender and the foot ascender.
do you ever add redundant anchors which is common climbing practice? or a stopper knot to your lanyard to prevent it from going to far through the device maybe you should use two locking biners on your rope anchor system its redundant if you did that on a narrow branch it could dangerously crossload the biner !! your not a certified instructor and the people interested in your video might unknowingly put themselves in a dangerous situation not being aware of each system and its shortcomings its important to know many and to have enough experience implementing them for the appropriate situation and above and beyond all it is important to know self rescue techniques for when the noobs get stuck up in a tree or hurt and need to know how to get down i like your videos but i do recommend teaching redundant double anchor points for safety before getting untied off the ground most dangerous aspect of climbing statistically is rappelling and getting untied for various reasons more anchors equals more time, but it prevents accidents in an unforgiving terrain just keep in mind the watchers with lil to no experience get a book called "climbing anchors" by john long everything you need to know to build safe redundant anchor systems knowing the ropes keeps people climbing safe for a long time
+Dave Soderbloom Thank you Dave. I sometimes forget that some people only use RUclips as a resource. I understand that I need to be more diligent in recommending that they seek professional guidance (instead of just learning from RUclips). I think some people assume I say this "just because" but learning directly from someone with knowledge in self rescue and redundancy is vitally important. I have personally read the book by John Long and would recommend it for everyone. Thank you.
Your canopy anchor is frowned upon by “best practices” and most professionals everywhere. Cross loading a carabiner, and also threat of gate opening…. Just sayin. People are watching and using this as a learning tool.
Dude! The way you show the Munter Hitch! sooo simple, loved it, Im always struggling to remember it! nice! Thanks for all the rest of the info, you teach it nice and clear!
I appreciate the compliment because that's what I was aiming for!
@@TREEfool well you delivered my good friend! Cheers from Mexico!
been climb trees for 20 + years and well i really like your videos fast , easy and clear .. i just happen to stumble across your channel . look fwd to watching more n letting people know about your style of tree climbing fun ..
I appreciate the compliment!
you bet ..
Good introduction to tree climbing. Right at my level of learning. Thanks !
Thank you for the bit about choosing the correct type of rope. That was missing from every other video I saw elsewhere.
Your the first I've seen to keep it simple. Thank you!
glad i could help!
Hey Tree fool, I must say that I'm surprised to see that no one in the comments section below has brought this up. As a professional arborist I wouldn't recommend using the grigri,which is designed for rock climbing dynamic ropes, on a static line because the forces expressed on the device are greater as the rope is doing less of the absorbing.
I'm glad you put the lil disclaimer in there though as you wouldn't wanna be associated with the advice that you're giving out. There are plenty of professional tree climber out there on youtube so I hope others that watch this clip find those also and that you take the time to educate yourself before and accident occurs.
I'm not sure what you are going on about. Direct quote from Petzl's website: "[The grigri] can, however, be used with semi-static ropes in certain situations, such as rappelling. GRIGRI's braking performance with semi-static ropes may vary according to the condition, diameter, and type of rope. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with the device by first carrying out an operating test."
That munter hitch was smooth! Hadn't seen it done that way
Glad you liked it!
Yo I'm starting climbing with my children and these vids are very helpful!
You present and explain very well.
I appreciate that because I try very hard! 😀
Best how to videos I've found. Thanks for sharing
Glad I could help!
Its say tree full but this was the awesom easy to understand climb best video so far thank you for best climbing teaching sir and cheeper way you explained too this is really best climbing video so far you are awesom !
I found that hanging in the lanyard hurts like shit if ots clipped into the side loops. I use my lanyard in my main loop if I have to hang in it. Standing on a branch the side loops are fine thought.
I am new to tree climbing but I have a grigri but not a hand ascender, I will be using a prusik knot but I am not sure where to clip the carabiner for the brake rend of the grigri and where to clip the carabiner for the foot loop. if anyone could tell me it would be much appreciated. Thanks!
excellent video by the way!
Hey thanks for sharing. Im very new to tree climbing, and Im putting my first SRT setup together for saddling hunting. I ordered a grigri plus and a ct quick roll ascender left handed and adjustable foot strap. The quick roll is supposed to have a mechanical advantage. I still dont know what carabiners, or prussiks i need to order, also looking at getting some platinum rope. i read that is good for srt. How am I doing so far? Did I get some good gear?
great series! thank you
Nicely done series, thanks!
One thing though, I'm thinking it would be a very good idea to set up an Autoblock if one is using only a Munter for descent as you show? Any issue with the control hand and down you go. The Autoblock would save you.
+Mark Johnson I agree! Thanks for the tip.
also is a good idea to use a HMS type carabiner for the munter. Very good video, keep up the good work
Do you think a ropeman 1 or 2 is a good replacement for the hand ascender for a RADS system?
I use the ropeman without teeth (forgot which number this is). Instead it has parallel ridges which are easier on the rope but not as secure (definitely don't use it as a main safety device).
Do you have any recommendations for an ascend system that doesn’t use a grigri?
I have a hand ascender, 3pt block pulley, fig8
I’m just having trouble finding a good solution for progress capture. I’m not having luck with my prusik/klemheist tending with my block. I’m new to this. Love the channel! 🤘🏼🤘🏼
Thanks man. Different ropes require different types of hitch cords. How many different cords have you tried on your rope?
Is there a way to do this without the fancy grigri or foot loop?Couldn't you just use a prusik to ascend without any of that other gear?
I_Dont_Eat_My_Friends, yes but the RADS system is pretty slow relative to some mainstream arborist techniques and using just prusiks to ascend is even slower. Slow to the point that you may quickly loose intrest in climbing the tree. It also makes descending a lot harder which is a safety concern. Don't get me wrong, my first 20 foot climb was with prusiks and i slept in the tree for the night but a grigri is just so much faster and safer. A different option is to buy an arborist rope and use an ascension knot. i believe the knot is called a blakes hitch but then you have to climb drt so the rope slides over the branch instead of srt like in these vids.
Hi TREEfool! I love your videos! Particularly this one! After watching this daily for the past few weeks, I went out and bought the grigri and hand ascender. It's going great! Quick question: people tell me the grigri is not techically rated for going 'hands free' (ex: when at the top of the rope you just climbed for fun, and you're transitioning to descending....) , I'm wondering is it necessary to tie a stopper/safety knot in the tail below the grigri while disconnecting the ascender and pulley and footloop overhead? I've had no issue (while practicing low to the ground) with the gri gri slipping in the least, but I'm just curious what you think/do about this? I've just been un-doing the ascender while holding onto the tail of my rope- even though it would be more convenient to just let the tail go and use both hands freely. Thoughts? (not trying to get you to say anything that could get you in trouble, but mainly just curious if you've ever experienced the grigri 'slip' at all? I've experimented with wiggling around and such, but it is rock solid/safe feeling. Curious what you think about this, and if you have any tricks for added safety? Thanks! I love this climbing system!
First I have to ask what size of rope you are using. The bigger the rope the more readily the grigri will engange. If you are climbing on 11mm+ you have no worries at all about letting go (don't sue me if you die cuz Petzl disagrees with this and you have to do what they say or you will die). Me personally? I use a 9mm rope and go hands free once I have ensured that the device is locked. For example, if I am stepping off a branch to hang on the grigri I DEFINITELY have my hand on the tail until the grigri is 100% locked out. Then I let go and do my work. Again, petzl says you shouldn't due this but after years of this combination I have learned when the grigri slips and when it doesnt. I've had it NOT lock on 7.5 mm rope otherwise the grigri just enganges so damn well that perhaps I have gained too much confidence in it. But once you understand the mechanism of what is stopping the rope from feeding through you will realize that once it is locked onto the rope it is very hard to just randomly disengange unless you are bouncing or the rope diameter is too small.
@@TREEfool Thank you so much! I really appreciate the thorough reply! I've been climbing on a 10mm rope recently, although I'm interested in trying out a 9mm as well, if it also seems to perform well in the system- and it sounds like it does.
I finally got around to getting a proper throw sack, and line, and am finding that process SO satisfying (setting a line) :). I'm pretty much doing a 20-30 foot climb every day after work while I get the hang of things. My 10mm line is only 70 feet, so I'll pick up a longer rope before too long.
Thanks again for your feedback. I definitely know what you mean by the grigri being 'locked out' and will continue to study and get familiar with that feel.
lots of good info! I'll need to rewatch before getting up in the tree =)
Hey I love your videos you do great things and all. Any way what is the lanyard attachment that you showed paired with the coulair harness? And where can i find one?
+Tanner Crow I custom built it. I actually considered selling them online until I realized that customers could sue me if they got hurt using a product I built. In other words, you can not purchase them anywhere.
For your lanyard, do you even need to use a rappel ring? Could you just feed the loose end into a figure-8 on a bight for further weight savings?
+Benjamin Wong Yes you could. However, if you are continually feeding and pulling rope through the figure-8 you will create lots of unwanted friction on the same exact spot of the lanyard (the tip of the bite) which will ruin your lanyard faster. At some point you will have to decide to replace your lanyard much earlier than if you just used a rappel ring.
Thanks TREEfool. Good point. I'm actually having a tough time trying to find aluminum belay rings in locally in Toronto hence my question about omitting the ring. I will see if I can find another affordable solution and use a locking biner in the mean time.
+Benjamin Wong Quick link could be easier to find and dirt cheap substitute. That's what I use for clipping the rope up on an isolated rope instead of a carabiner.
+hoggif Thanks for the reply! I ended up using stainless steel descending ring instead. Kinda heavy and ugly since It's a welded ring but it's rated to 50kN. I'm willing to sacrifice the weight savings for safety :-)
I don’t understand how to attach myself to the lanyard and get rid of the gri-gri when I put all my weight on the lanyard it’s just impossible not have tension in the gri-gri rope... I miss something
Is it dangerous to have dynamic rope or is it just easier to have static rope?
Ellis Stuart I would argue that it is safer for recreational climbing. If you have slack in your line ( which should be avoided) and you fall there is some shock absorption which doesnt happen on a static line. So yes, dynamic ropes are safe to use but less efficient.
Thank you very much loving the videos 🙂
Do you have a helmet recommendation? I haven't been able to figure out if a rock climbing helmet or an arborist helmet is a better choice? Thanks!
lol i have a 2 metre eye stitch prusik cord for a lanyard guess i'm gonna have to get up close and personal with the tree
I know I'm a little late. Lol. But what sort of belt are you using for the lanyard attachment points running through your harness?
ruclips.net/video/qp4p-KU5LWU/видео.html
thankyou great tutorial !
I'm interested in tree climbing and want to use the RAD system shown in this video. I'm right handed so would I buy a right ascender or a left ascender? Thanks.
+Stratton Carr I am right handed and I feel more comfortable using the hand ascender in my left hand and pulling on the rope with my right hand. But I also use my right hand on the ascender sometimes just to mix it up.
+TREEfool ok. Thank you!
Tree fool nice video.ive been climbing for 17yrs and alot of things have changed. Some harnesses dont have weight bering side rings, they are for positioning only. I see you have run a tapesling between yours. Is that why?
Yup, I rarely use them though.
Hi TREEfool, i noticed that you attach the climbing rope to the harness belay loop. I don't think that's recommended and not safe.
why would this not be safe????
Great video Thanks
You are welcome!
I understand but,...Ehhh.. how do you tie the rope 50 feet up on the tree? Are you usin some sort of a grappling tool?? And how do you get your rope down from there afterwards? Yes i am a newbie :)
Check out the first video to see how he gets the rope rigged up, and for getting it down you would either use a tag line or have both ends on the ground, and then just pull it down.
How come nobody uses a totally second line for backup? Even repelling lines are one rope draped over a pulley so it looks like two ropes but it's still one rope and if you cut it guess where you'll end up? So how come nobody uses two roped and that would appear like you're using four lines?
Carry Two ropes into a forrest, you will understand why.
Where did you buy your 10mm green rope from I have looked everywhere
+Howie Waldenmeyer ... Here is the Sterling HTP Snake Bite in 10mm from SherrilTree:www.sherrilltree.com/HTP-Snakebite-Green-Static-Line-10mm#.Vj93KumFP4g
do you know a place where i can find maybe less rope but still 10 mm like around maybe 60 feet of rope
Treestuff.com sells 10mm htp by the foot in the color blue.
Thank you sooooo much keep up the great work and stay safe thank you!!!!!!
You can get it on alixpress cheaper.
Late comment but love the videos keep up great work stay safe you reason I started tree camping
What would you recommend for a lightweight quiet srt setup for saddle hunting?
Hi my friend, I subscribed to your channel, you know I'm new to this and I need to cut a big pine (30 meters) and I want to buy those accessories to go up, you know where I can find at not so high price??.... Good video ✌️
Ebay! I don't buy ropes used but everything else should be ok.
Hi where have you bought a rope? I'm 110Kg and 2.00 mt. Is correct for me 10mm rope?
Can you use a drone to being the cable to the top and tie it somehow?🤔
would 8mm cord work for the lanyard?
Also, couldn't you use a ring for your mainline instead of a carabiner? Thanks.
+Greg Welsh ...Yes, I use an 8mm cord for my adjustable lanyard. I chose 9mm for my short/simple lanyard so that I can repurpose it as a portaledge anchor on super light tree camping trips (meaning, I only bring one piece of cord instead of two).
+Greg Welsh And yes, a ring is MUCH stronger and you don't have to worry about the gate coming open. However, I usually use a biner because it allows for very fast tie-in-point advancements (see the third video to understand what I mean).
Okay that makes sense. thank you! these 3 new vids are very helpful. keep it up!
Always try to judge a landyard by its rating. Get stuff that is or above 22kn. Your krabs should also be 22kn in a downward pull. Ropes also loose strength when knotted so the stronger the better. Also be careful how it works when heated. A kevlar rope for a friction knot would be a bad idea.
Can i use a second ropeman instead of a grigri??
How long do u recommend for the footloop??
It varies greatly. I use an adjustable foot loop (just a cam buckle and webbing that I bought at home depot). When I am climbing fast I like to make it shorter for a larger step up but when I am climbing with a bunch of weight I make it longer to give me better leverage. Just get a piece of webbing and re-tie the knot at different lengths to see what you prefer.
TREEfool Thanks, helped a lot
hi i was wondering if you could use a grigri and a prusik chord rather than a hand ascender and foot loop or would it be best to use a hand ascender and a foot loop.
That is what I used when I first started climbing. It is incredibly exhausting and slow but if your only goal is to climb a tree it will work!
thank you ever so much i have basic climbing gear so i'll only need bits and bobs, thanks for the fast response. keep up the amazing work and congrats on becoming a father
You won't get robbed or murdered camping in a tree
*Gets shot*
spencer vance hummmm....better buy orange stuff and hang it around you.
.....Panthers.....
Ever heard of lumber jacks?
2020 watching! thanks for this helpfull information!
glad i could help!
you can still fall some height from a tree, do tree surgeons really use static ropes to climb on, even with anchor points below your feet?
we never climb higher than our tie in point
They work in a work positioning configuration with fall factors less than 1.2. Plus the tree is a dynamic anchor point unlike steel.
Their ropes have between 2-6% stretch.
Sorry late comment
Is it ok to use a dynamic rope whilst getting started in tree climbing. And also does the ascender not damage the rope or is that just me. Thanks
+Oliver Oddie When you are starting you can use a dynamic rope to save money. It is just less efficient. An ascender should not damage a rope as long as you are not putting dynamic loads on the ascender. But to be honest, I am not the person who should be answering a question about rope wear as I only have anecdotal evidence to go off of.
+TREEfool thanks. I mainly do indoor climbing or trad with my dad and I really want to get into tree climbing I am really interested I want to try out the budget rads whilst on holiday in Skye this coming week I am saving up for a ascender but for now I will stick to learning the rad set up using a prussic loop. Thanks for the help
Quick question: is it ok to use what essentially is a belay device (Grigri) as a descender? Yes, they are very similar functions ... still ... not the same :)
A GriGri is a descender and belay device. Does not have the heat dissipation of some larger devices but for regular short raps is just great. Best lightweight progress capture device for hauling systems too.
It can slack sometimes when u put off your weight of it and after Rapidly put it on
whats the name of that orange ascendor? im wanting to get into this and ive looked at other i like this one best
+Joseph S - petzl ascension hand ascender
+TREEfool i guess what i mean to ask is what model? And i haven't found anywhere local to me for instructors any advice?
Thanks in advance
Just google petzl ascension. Petzl is the brand and Ascension is the model. If you are looking for instruction and don't have it locally I would search for an arborist convention near your city and start there.
Is it possible to use a dynamic rope? Becouse it's a little expensive to buy a new one.
If you are going to use dynamic rope in a belay senario then it is great. You can Free climb up using strops and carabiners to make anchor points. However if you ascend the rope over a 30ft distance the stretch will be a disadvantage.
Can I use my 12 strand rope for srt
Which knot did you use to tie in the rappel ring?
+Ryan Rodlund ...In the video the rappel ring is tied on with a simple overhand on a bite. A figure 8 on a bite would be even stronger for this purpose.
Are you right or left handed?
Right handed.
Thanks
Is hamok tree camping safe
it all depends on you man
Can you just use a prussik cord as a lanyard?
I wouldn't.
Love and use this exact setup. Grigri2 & same but w/velocity hot 11.7mil
It's nice to know that the grigri 2 works with such a thick rope!
@@TREEfool smooth too. Just got some Samsung Mercury I'm gonna try out next
@@JustJimJr , That blows my mind that the Gregory can handle such a wide range of rope sizes so smoothly. Just one of the many reasons why I recommend everyone owns a gris-gris even if they don't use a RADS.
Would it work with 12mm or is that too thick
great videos, but it wouldn't be recommended to use a grigri as you do. It's not an autobrake system. To use grigri, I think you would doubled your security system with a knot like prussik, or replace the grigri by descender like the oetzl i'D. Otherwize , I like your videos, because they are short , and very comprehensive.
Everybody does this. I think the "not recommended" is just legalese from Petzl. Perfectly safe and standard operating procedure.
> Everybody does this
Until they can't anymore...
Do you ever use the rig or id
+john mccampbell Rig would work similar to a grigri. However, it is rated for larger ropes of 10.5-11.5mm only. On the other hand rig/id have a locked position which I really like. Unweighted grigri does not always catch you unless you hold the end of the rope for extra friction. So, falling to a not weighted grigri can be a disaster.
+Filip Šorli My grigri hasn't failed on me either (yet) but it is known to happen when not holding the end and it has been unweighted. This can happen easily when you need too hands for example to pass some brances or whatever.
My ID seems to catch not as easily as my Grigri with thinner ropes but you're able to lock it. With grigi a good practice is to tie backup knot(s).
Some other similar devices like Camp Matic seem very prone to not catching if not holding the end which is why one should test out in safe environment how the device works with any perticular rope you're using.
Im looking to for a simple easy system to get up and down mine shafts. It will be a straight drop down. Can anyone write a short list of equiptment im going to need.. i have a budget of around 800. I need to get this right cuz if i dont im going to be stuck down a mine shaft in the middle of the desert lol
I'm intrigued, you are doing this for fun and not work? For $800 you can make a pretty awesome setup but I don't think you should dive into a mine, alone, until you get enough experience to know what gear you'll actually need. But I'm terrible at playing it safe myself and always do things way before I have the appropriate amount of experience 😉
Im doing it because i mine opal for a hobbie. Im building a scaffold tower at the top with a landing pad the shafts are only a couple meters wide. me and a mate are going we will be telling people where we are so if we aint back on time people will come help us. Ive got an assender and decender in mind and a sports harness ive sussed all options. If we loose equiptment ill use a hitch to get up the rope. Single rope. I was a scaffolder for years so i do have rope and harness experience. One way or the other im going to make it work. Ill make sure i practice a shit load before i go. I want good opal its the only way.
@@mrpicks3148 Sounds like quite a unique and fun hobby. Good luck!
Do not trust grigri in 100% it slacks sometimes and doesnt brake and you can hit the ground!!! Tie slip konts while climbing on the line. I would also recommend tying a prusik hitch on the rope coming out of The grigri. It will be working as an aditional brake, and you can easly descend with it. CLIMB SAFE
This. The grigri is a belay device, not a locking descender. Never let go of the brake strand. You should tie it off before going hands off. I agree that a "third hand" autoblock would make it safer. Still, not an ascender, not a locking descender (e.g. see the Croll and the Rig).
A micro traction, or similar, instead of the pully on the ascension would also be a good idea to back up he grigri, still then relying a bit too much on the ascension though.
A Rig would be better than a GriGri. And not much more. An ID would also be good, better still, but much bigger and much more expensive.
I agree you could also use the rope man to back up the GriGri
So you dont necessarily need a tree climbing harness? Just for tree camping a regular rock climbing harness should be fine?
+Josh Porter You are correct. HOWEVER! When you are new to tree climbing there will be many times where you are stuck hanging in your harness for long periods of time. If you use a tree harness this will not be a problem because they are built with wide leg loops and back support specifically for that purpose. If you use a rock climbing harness the tiny leg loops will slow the circulation to your legs and you will need to constantly move and adjust them so that your feet don't go numb (it is very uncomfortable at times and the heavier you are the worse this will get).
+TREEfool Cool. I'll try the rock one first to make sure I like it, since there is quite the price difference in the two harnesses. If I like it I can always buy the better harness. Great videos man!
Thank you! Good luck.
I got myself a petzl corax. Cheap enough. Just waiting on a few more pieces of gear.
Josh Porter d
we do this Kind of different here :)
First of all we always do a safety-belay-system on the ground so if you blackout or something happens up in the tree, someone else can Belay u from the ground - easy to do and a lot safer.
Second Point we do different is, that we use a double grip ascender with a footloop on leftfoot, a simple ropestopper on your chest for your safety and a foot-rope-ascender on your right foot. So you can climb up way faster. For the Descent we use a petzl I-D-S that we install when we are on top of the tree. Simply install it, Pull yourself up one more time and undo the chest-rope-ascender. So you're hanging in your belaydevice and you're ready to go down.
Cost a lot more cause of an extra GRIGRI 2 (at the bottom), the double Ascender and the foot ascender.
Looks like fun
Pretty sure I'm gunna die
Wish me luck!
so your alive right?
I would surgest buying Rig it's only about 20% more than a GriGri+ and much better for this kind of thing.
You don’t do tree work do you???
3:07 Prusik сord ©
Это схватывающий узел Маршара(Machard), французский прусик, автоблок, Клемхейст (Klemheist).
I really hate ascended system. throw back to caving days.
+Tim Barton You make it sound like your caving days were non-enjoyable.
This guy ever used a saw up a tree ?
harry oliphant, nope.
Why am I the only girl on here? Am I really the only girl? This shit is really cool.
You're cool!
Noooo
do you ever add redundant anchors which is common climbing practice? or a stopper knot to your lanyard to prevent it from going to far through the device maybe you should use two locking biners on your rope anchor system its redundant if you did that on a narrow branch it could dangerously crossload the biner !! your not a certified instructor and the people interested in your video might unknowingly put themselves in a dangerous situation not being aware of each system and its shortcomings its important to know many and to have enough experience implementing them for the appropriate situation and above and beyond all it is important to know self rescue techniques for when the noobs get stuck up in a tree or hurt and need to know how to get down i like your videos but i do recommend teaching redundant double anchor points for safety before getting untied off the ground most dangerous aspect of climbing statistically is rappelling and getting untied for various reasons more anchors equals more time, but it prevents accidents in an unforgiving terrain just keep in mind the watchers with lil to no experience get a book called "climbing anchors" by john long everything you need to know to build safe redundant anchor systems knowing the ropes keeps people climbing safe for a long time
+Dave Soderbloom Thank you Dave. I sometimes forget that some people only use RUclips as a resource. I understand that I need to be more diligent in recommending that they seek professional guidance (instead of just learning from RUclips). I think some people assume I say this "just because" but learning directly from someone with knowledge in self rescue and redundancy is vitally important. I have personally read the book by John Long and would recommend it for everyone. Thank you.
Please don't use the grigri for tree climbing
Why not?
Your canopy anchor is frowned upon by “best practices” and most professionals everywhere. Cross loading a carabiner, and also threat of gate opening…. Just sayin. People are watching and using this as a learning tool.
Very little of this is relevant to professional arboriculture. What a mess.
i was taught to ascend with two prusics and a safety carabiner, i was wandering is there any reason for the extra gear except comfort?