Baking soda is a buffer, more so than a base. It buffers the pH to a slightly basic level, but it is still a buffer rather than a base. Perfect thing to neutralize the pH of an acidic solution.
That inner ring as you called it, is called a race, and it's a pressed in race with a press. Very, Very important to install it properly. You would be surprised how many mechanics install these backwards.....and they need to be installed new!!! My boss would NOT warranty this type of repair unless everything was installed new. The bearing rides on the race. The lower unit of the sail drive is basically the same as an outboard motor lower unit. Also all bolts should be replaced as well and all holes should be cleaned with a Tap. Tap and Die set. I realize you don't have access to these easily. Having a hole shaft as a spare would be a good thing, but very expensive. There are many tips I could give you, but you got the job done. Great Job!!!! Also the Torque spec's for bolts should be followed....A lot of people think just tighten the hell out of the bolts and it's fine....Not the Case. I had not watched the whole video before commenting....(Tap and Die set)....lol. Guess was right
Wow. This is fascinating!! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! We really appreciate it. Thankful that we did a lot right and I am sure with the proper tools we could have done more correctly. Thanks again!!
@brentdreisbach6829 You are welcome. Yes, very. He worked with us on site for at least 5 hours, maybe more plus the machine shop and work he did at home. And he bought us 6 new screws too.
Cool. Thanks, Bill. We are glad you like it. Every two years we haul out for bottom job and sail drive seal change. This was our scheduled two year haulout. That why we came to Colombia!
Great video! When I first changed my seals I searched and did not find anything as comprehensive as this. For the last 2 years I have been using zinc and Trilux spray paint as well. Works great for me. Just needs a little snorkel scraping once in awhile. Also, I have the same Flexofold propellers. Have you followed Out Chasing Stars - David Alton? Anyway he lost 2 of these props. It is too late this time but I always over torque that main nut. 15nm doesn't seem like enough. I know it has a bent washer holding it but that nut is the only thing holding the hub and props on the shaft. I don't have a torque wrench but I put a 2x4 on the prop to the ground and tightend the cr@$ out of that nut. Happy Sails
Hey Chris!! Thank you SO much!! This is helpful to read your experience!! Yikes I have not seen David and Amy’s video on losing TWO flexofolds. Dang it. If we had known earlier…hope we don’t have any issues. Why would the instructions give a torque that doesn’t actually keep them on??? Thanks for the heads up!!! Don’t want to change them in the water but next time we do this we will make sure we tighten more!! Thank you!
Very helpful, thanks! Question: Do you carry the SD60 seals and zincs (assuming yes) and various goops/sprays (highly technical terms haha) or do they have most of what you need in the boatyard?
Yes, we always carry extras with us to make sure we have the right stuff at the right time. We consider them regular maintenance items, just like oil and fuel filters along with extra oil and antifreeze.
Specifically download the Yanmar SD60 “Service Manual” which is different from the “Operation Manual” as it provides MUCH more detail. On page “4 - 15” it says to use Starbugs Assembly Grease as well as Loctite High Temperature Gasket Sealant which is cheap and relatively easy to find. I also found an inexpensive substitute for the Starbugs on Amazon. I highly recommend doing all of these specific recommendations to reduce the chance of premature haul out due to leaking seals. Message us on Facebook if you have any questions.
@@SailingBlownAway It is an additional protection of the round diaphragm. It reduces the possibility of foreign bodies entering. It is normally sold together with the round diaphragm. Buon vento!
Baking soda is a buffer, more so than a base. It buffers the pH to a slightly basic level, but it is still a buffer rather than a base. Perfect thing to neutralize the pH of an acidic solution.
Thank you. Very interesting! We are always learning!!
That inner ring as you called it, is called a race, and it's a pressed in race with a press. Very, Very important to install it properly. You would be surprised how many mechanics install these backwards.....and they need to be installed new!!! My boss would NOT warranty this type of repair unless everything was installed new. The bearing rides on the race. The lower unit of the sail drive is basically the same as an outboard motor lower unit. Also all bolts should be replaced as well and all holes should be cleaned with a Tap. Tap and Die set. I realize you don't have access to these easily. Having a hole shaft as a spare would be a good thing, but very expensive. There are many tips I could give you, but you got the job done. Great Job!!!! Also the Torque spec's for bolts should be followed....A lot of people think just tighten the hell out of the bolts and it's fine....Not the Case. I had not watched the whole video before commenting....(Tap and Die set)....lol. Guess was right
Thank you for the comprehensive video. Can you please share the cost for Carlos and the machine shop for our reference?
@brentdreisbach6829 Sure. 866000 COP for all of Carlos’ work including machine shop
Wow. This is fascinating!! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! We really appreciate it. Thankful that we did a lot right and I am sure with the proper tools we could have done more correctly. Thanks again!!
@@SailingBlownAway That's about $217 USD. Very reasonable! Thanks for the info.
@brentdreisbach6829 You are welcome. Yes, very. He worked with us on site for at least 5 hours, maybe more plus the machine shop and work he did at home. And he bought us 6 new screws too.
Thanks, very useful information.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Love this video, part of our future!
I hope your maintenance goes well and you have no surprises!!
Good one! My volvo seal change coming up! Thanks, safe sailing! Andrew
Oh wow!! Hope the change goes well. Thanks for being such a loyal supporter, Andrew!
Love these details!
Thank you. Sooo glad it is helpful!!
Thank you for sharing!!
Thank you so much!!
great video
Thank you!! And thanks for commenting!!!
Excellent video! This will come in handy when I change my SD60 Drive seals.
Thanks!! I am so happy to hear this!!
Great video!!! Was this a scheduled maintenance or something you did because you were there?
Cool. Thanks, Bill. We are glad you like it. Every two years we haul out for bottom job and sail drive seal change. This was our scheduled two year haulout. That why we came to Colombia!
great job
Thank you so much!
Great video! When I first changed my seals I searched and did not find anything as comprehensive as this. For the last 2 years I have been using zinc and Trilux spray paint as well. Works great for me. Just needs a little snorkel scraping once in awhile. Also, I have the same Flexofold propellers. Have you followed Out Chasing Stars - David Alton? Anyway he lost 2 of these props. It is too late this time but I always over torque that main nut. 15nm doesn't seem like enough. I know it has a bent washer holding it but that nut is the only thing holding the hub and props on the shaft. I don't have a torque wrench but I put a 2x4 on the prop to the ground and tightend the cr@$ out of that nut. Happy Sails
Hey Chris!! Thank you SO much!! This is helpful to read your experience!! Yikes I have not seen David and Amy’s video on losing TWO flexofolds. Dang it. If we had known earlier…hope we don’t have any issues. Why would the instructions give a torque that doesn’t actually keep them on??? Thanks for the heads up!!! Don’t want to change them in the water but next time we do this we will make sure we tighten more!! Thank you!
Very helpful, thanks!
Question: Do you carry the SD60 seals and zincs (assuming yes) and various goops/sprays (highly technical terms haha) or do they have most of what you need in the boatyard?
Yes, we always carry extras with us to make sure we have the right stuff at the right time. We consider them regular maintenance items, just like oil and fuel filters along with extra oil and antifreeze.
Yanmar spec not to lube seals or hub when installing seals
Specifically download the Yanmar SD60 “Service Manual” which is different from the “Operation Manual” as it provides MUCH more detail. On page “4 - 15” it says to use Starbugs Assembly Grease as well as Loctite High Temperature Gasket Sealant which is cheap and relatively easy to find. I also found an inexpensive substitute for the Starbugs on Amazon. I highly recommend doing all of these specific recommendations to reduce the chance of premature haul out due to leaking seals. Message us on Facebook if you have any questions.
Sorry! but have you forgotten the external membrane of the sail drive?
We don’t have one. We never have.
@@SailingBlownAway It is an additional protection of the round diaphragm. It reduces the possibility of foreign bodies entering. It is normally sold together with the round diaphragm. Buon vento!
Yes, we have seen them and know their value. But we have had other priorities. Maybe some day!! Thanks!
Could not find the yanmar grease. Do you have a name for that.
Thank you in advance
Marine grease. Heavy duty. You can use any kind as long as it’s heavy duty marine
What kind of prop ypu have? I have the same boat, and we can't read the prop number
SD60