Good video, but personally I'd have brought the armoured straight down from the bottom of the Wiska. Then run around low level under the bottom drip edge of the wall.
@@Jackdaly2000 : Agreed, I hate seeing cables run around walls like that. Before anyone starts, I know there's times when we have no choice. Doesn't stop me hating doing it or seeing it though.
Support of wiring to prevent premature collapsing in the event of a fire only applies to surface wiring not wiring above a ceiling or underneath floorboards.
Nice to see that you've come full circle in your more recent videos #flexiConFromDayOne Great stuff mate. Good to see how well produced and interesting your content has become, in just a year and a half on RUclips. Been a subscriber for a while, and just now going through your back catalogue of videos.
Good effort, however, The SWA wasn't that tidy running around the house. It could have been dropped straight down from the bottom of the Wiska box and round at low level. Cable entries should ideally be into the bottom of any external enclosures for obvious reasons. The SWA could have been terminated directly into the shed CU, to keep costs down. Lastly, there is no reason to maintain the fire rating of the CU in a shed or out building.
Great video I’m a old school sparkie mainly domestic work and outside electrical works grew up on 2391 testing but been 10 years since I worked for my self and doing electrical works I’m looking at registering for part p again but things have moved on and I’m rusty so your videos area great way of getting back into electrics again and ref to comments on here .. every one works there own way .. on installations all that’s matters is it’s safe / within the regs carry on the great work I love your videos very well filmed and step by step instructions are spot on well done 👍
I have subscribed to your channel your way of explaining what you are doing is spot on there’s a lot of effort and time that goes into making your Videos I personally appreciate them keep up the good work 😉
I realise this video is over a year old but I’m wondering on how you connected the 10mm cable coming from the shed into the existing consumer unit in the house did you use an existing rcd or a new one or what thanks in advance.
Spent yesterday pricing a job to do what you have done. Only for the customer pull the rug from under oneself. Beacuse the quote was to much. I was practicaly giving it away. The joys of we do.
I'm curious to why the 10mm I got my 2 sheds wired up and my sparky installed 4mm swa from inside out to a consumer in the shed, I did say I wanted a couple of 16a sockets installed aswell as 6 double sockets extractor and 4 led strip lights but he said 4mm would be ideal. After watching you here I'm wondering if 10mm would have been perfect plus future proof for my installation.
Good video, I've just bought a new build with a remote garage, tossers ran a 1.5mm swa to the garage, we now want a car charger installed, I just don't understand on a short run the bloody penny pinching, so now I've got to run another cable, how effective was that led light positioned like it was? I can see why you did it but it doesn't look like it will work well?
Hello mate thank you for your video,can I ask a question please how would you run cabling to patio ground lights?hi tuf or swa as swa hard to make end in small fitting box.thank you in advance
Hi mate, i'm leaving the Army in a year. Just wondering whats the best way to becoming an electrician?. Also i want to ask, as they say "dont ask dont get", could i possibly work for you for (free) in my spare time to gain the very valuable experience, which will benefit me for when i start the electrical course that i will be starting on 27th Jan 2020?.
Great video and work 👍. Question, when running the cable from the house to the shed, did you clip the cable to the fence post or gravel board? How high does the cable need to be above ground or how low below ground?
Liked the video - cheers! Quick question when would you need a DB say for example if you were using as an office just pulling power for a charger and a light would you still need one or would a fused spur be acceptable?
Roughly how much does and operation like this cost? I'm not an electrician and would like some power in my shed, trying to find the safest/cheapest way possible, tia
Hey Guys, can anyone help, im struggling to understand what the use for a WISKA box is? why not go straight through the shed into a consumer unit? thanks
You could be then potentially having outside water, condensation etc go straight into the fuse board, that's what I would do unless the swa has a slight decent run into the shed first.
You must have asked that wall very nicely not to blow out more than that. :) Just out of curiosity was the circuit in the main board supplying the circuit to the shed protected by an RCD? If so, did you consider using a 100amp main switch in the shed board instead of the additional RCD? (discrimination/selectivity and all that jazz) just an observation dude :) Excellent job. Looking forward to more content.
Peter Tallowin lol very nicely, and yeah 100a 30mA cd protecting the armoured with a 50 amp mcb, and shed end I changed the main switch to a 40a 30mA rcd but for added protect because of the distance from main board, thanks for watching Pete 🤙 loads more to come soon
Splendid. :) I like your style dude and look forward to future content. A pleasure to watch people who care about what they do. Thanks for the reply. Oh and if you haven't already, you should check out DSS Electrical and Artisan Electrics as well. So many quality dudes posting quality content.
Hi Nick! Just adding to what Peter Tallowin said also check out all the following channels if you follow my trusted electrician. Thomas Nagy, David Savery Electrical Services, CRJ electrical, John ward, sparky ninja, the guys at gsh electrical, big Clive and e5 group 👍 keep up the good work!
N Bundy Electrical there is no selectivity offered by using a lower rated RCD this is just its maximum current rating. It’s often hard to achieve and keep prices down but 30ma rcds in series is not great practice and rarely do they operate independently or as expected. Fair play for putting your work online to be judged but I think it’s a great platform for learning these days.
Good Video. Question: I presume that your SWA was connected to the CU and got its earth there, in the house at that end, but don't you need to connect another earth at the shed end directly from the SWA to ground there also? running long SWA's I'da thought you'd need an earthing plate at the shed end running into the ground, am I wrong? To rely on the main CU earthing at the house end CU using long runs of SWA to the shed, would you need another earth at the shed end driven into the ground, just to be sure?
Not if it tests out okay (not going in to much detail) but if it doesnt you dont take the houses earthing into the shed CU for instance and instead you earth the shed installation using a ground rod however this is generally not required
Liked and subscribed. Good first video Nick. I’m currently doing a domestic electrician course as I wanted a career change. I’m getting loads of great information off guys like Thomas Nagy and Chris from CJR Electrical just by watching their videos. Looking forward to more content from you too 👍👍
Craig Gifford yeah I subscribe to both of them too, it’s what made me want to do my own videos, I’ve never edited anything before so hopefully they will get better with each video 👍
@@NBundyElectrical thanks for not doing the usual thing of being rude to Domestic Installers ! I also did the course last year for a late career change and to firm up the knowledge gained over 30 years of doing up houses, we realise we are not time served electricians like you guys, but your videos (and Thomas and My Trusted Electrician) all help us do better work. Good luck to you too Craig !
@@GaryThomo I did mine with TradeSkills. To be honest, they just get you through the exams, the hard part is when you are out in the real world working this out. Its where the learning really starts !!!!
@@roadiesean I get what you mean, I have wanted to change my career for years now and I find electrics so interesting, problem like most i suppose is that i work 5 days a week so finding time will be difficult. I will look into Tradeskills
Hi, Just wondered why you put the board so low down when kids can gain access. Comment already made about size of cable. 2.5mm would have carried enough surely for a shed ? good video !
Hi, you seem to think that we know what you know. Please get in a little closer so we can see what it is you are talking about. Even if these close ups are edited in afterwards. Some of the items you were using should be seen close up so we know and have a fuller understanding. For example you may have a pet name for something whereas we may know it by another name. Hope that helps.
11:00 Why do you have a metal box CU for save for fire if the backside have a big hole and do you screw it on a wood? If the back metal too - I can understand it. The fire from inside the box can nothing crashed. If the shed in fire it is equal of course.
Wait hold up (*takes a second to convert since I'm a dumb yank*) ... 10 mm wire is 8 AWG wire.... which we use for up to 40A. Your voltage is double, so you should be able to get 80A on that. Why would you need 80A between a shed a "summer home"? I agree with a previous comment -- they're gonna be growing weed out there.
Voltage may be doubled, but ampacity isn't. So that would 4.8 kW vs 9.6 kW, but it's not the whole story. We still use 240V in the US; the major difference is where neutral (and earth ground) are referenced: we use the midpoint (0V +- 120V) and they use one end (0V + 240V). Subpanels are fed with full service (2 hots, neutral, ground) because a 120V panel is useless if you need a 240V circuit _and_ because it makes balancing the legs more difficult. Bearing all that in mind, an equivalent US-market 40A subpanel installation would supply a maximum of . . . 9.6 kW. Just like this. Only on this side of the pond you'd have to worry about balancing the 120V legs, unless it were supplying a 240V load circuit - and in that case an isolator switch would probably be the better choice.
As others have said, cable looks a bit shite coming all over the walls like that, but i'm sure you will have read them and taken notice and it's all about improving going forward hey? Some of these jokers in the comments make out like they know everything and do everything perfectly. Take no notice bud, i really enjoy your vids.
Apluselectricalsolutions cheers bud, it was to allow another shed be bounced of this supply, there is another video called Koplex later on which does this 👍
@@NBundyElectrical so its rcd protected at the main house board and then rcd protected at the shed end. Dose this not mean if there is a fault in the shed end would it not also trip the rcd in the main house c.u as well
Yeah it will on some occasion, I had original quoted to fit an rcbo board on the shed end but customer changed plans last min, I’m going to change the house fuse board and relocate it soon and change this abit to prevent this 👍
@@NBundyElectrical ok it's a weird situation cus they want you to rcd protect the cable feeding the shed c.u but you dont want 2 rcd covering the same thing because if there is a fault in the shed the rcd in the house might trip before the rcd in the shed
Ryan Calderwood Nelson there is another shed going further down the garden running from this board so wanted to same sure that with the length of cable voltage drop would be minimal for the addition shed 👍
@@NBundyElectrical Ah right I see. What was the length in total? Because I was just wondering could I use a 6mm SWA to run approximately 25meters to a shed, of a 32A MCB to feed a 2 Way C.U which has a 20AMCB and 6A MCB
Sorry, a bit more thought about the cable run would have resulted in a much neater job. Drilling the hole through the house very near the corner would have enabled a neater vertical cable drop that visually would have been lost in the corner. As the homeowner is planning to pave over the concrete path it would have been better (but more work) to grind out the full length to the wall so the cable would have been buried - this would also allow drilling the brick wall below the concrete level so keeping the cable hidden. Why did you not terminate the SWA at the shed distribution board? Also unclear why you terminated at the Wiska box on the outside of the house - ugly ugly. I did a very similar job on my property and it took me all day to run 30m of SWA. Mind you it was my first time and the cable run is either hidden or unobtrusive - but then I am not an electrician and my time is ‘free’. Yes a qualified electrician tested and made the final connection to supply.
U do a good job mate how are u ok mate hove a good day mate form Greg Bouchard hove a good day mate how a good day mate how are u ok mate hove a good day how are u ok mate hove a good one mate
Good video, but personally I'd have brought the armoured straight down from the bottom of the Wiska. Then run around low level under the bottom drip edge of the wall.
RSC Electrical what I was thinking looks horrible it coming round the wall like that
@@Jackdaly2000 : Agreed, I hate seeing cables run around walls like that. Before anyone starts, I know there's times when we have no choice. Doesn't stop me hating doing it or seeing it though.
I thought the same, he could of transitioned into the cutout nicely then too.
I woulda come out left like he did but then down the wall in the corner, so it's not just stuck in the middle of any wall.
Out of the building at ground floor level? Easy
Nick bundy I like how you started and every video after top spark training more sparks big appreciation for the videos keep it up
Support of wiring to prevent premature collapsing in the event of a fire only applies to surface wiring not wiring above a ceiling or underneath floorboards.
Incorrect.
This should be fun... Come on then Paul, let's hear it.
@@ashmanelectricalservices4318 Hear what?
@@niceguy235uk1 The reason(s) as to why the statement is incorrect.
Alvin is right mate if the ceiling was gion to come down at that point cables would be the last of your problems
american electrican here love watching how its done other places also i am also a big fan of metric system much simpler and more precise
Looking forward to future videos. Keep up the good work!
Nice to see that you've come full circle in your more recent videos #flexiConFromDayOne
Great stuff mate. Good to see how well produced and interesting your content has become, in just a year and a half on RUclips. Been a subscriber for a while, and just now going through your back catalogue of videos.
Really nice job matey; lots of obstacles but you were totally professional throughout. 👍🏻
Good video ... keep going into detail like you have ... like how go through whole job. maybe just zoom in sometimes 👍
bigbud1978 thanks 👍 and will do, appreciate all the comments
Well done, nice job and good clear explanation about how the job was done.
Cheers dude 👍
Good effort, however,
The SWA wasn't that tidy running around the house.
It could have been dropped straight down from the bottom of the Wiska box and round at low level.
Cable entries should ideally be into the bottom of any external enclosures for obvious reasons.
The SWA could have been terminated directly into the shed CU, to keep costs down.
Lastly, there is no reason to maintain the fire rating of the CU in a shed or out building.
Yes I thought it strange that he'd put a wiska box on the side of the shed, serves no purpose I can think of.
ye im with alvin on this one
50mm galv tray. Much easier and faster in the long run.
Great video I’m a old school sparkie mainly domestic work and outside electrical works grew up on 2391 testing but been 10 years since I worked for my self and doing electrical works I’m looking at registering for part p again but things have moved on and I’m rusty so your videos area great way of getting back into electrics again and ref to comments on here .. every one works there own way .. on installations all that’s matters is it’s safe / within the regs carry on the great work I love your videos very well filmed and step by step instructions are spot on well done 👍
I have subscribed to your channel your way of explaining what you are doing is spot on there’s a lot of effort and time that goes into making your Videos I personally appreciate them keep up the good work 😉
Excellent first video 👌🏽
I realise this video is over a year old but I’m wondering on how you connected the 10mm cable coming from the shed into the existing consumer unit in the house did you use an existing rcd or a new one or what thanks in advance.
Nice work. Easy to follow instructional video. Good job buddy 👍🏻
Great video! Keep them coming 👍
Any video that involves garden rooms etc and the commercial stuff.
Great video thanks! Could you tell me what size MCB did you connect the cable to in the house consumer or was it a RCBO?
Thanks.
Spent yesterday pricing a job to do what you have done. Only for the customer pull the rug from under oneself. Beacuse the quote was to much. I was practicaly giving it away. The joys of we do.
advise using CW glands for outside , BW for inside
well done great first video
I'm curious to why the 10mm I got my 2 sheds wired up and my sparky installed 4mm swa from inside out to a consumer in the shed, I did say I wanted a couple of 16a sockets installed aswell as 6 double sockets extractor and 4 led strip lights but he said 4mm would be ideal. After watching you here I'm wondering if 10mm would have been perfect plus future proof for my installation.
Good video, I've just bought a new build with a remote garage, tossers ran a 1.5mm swa to the garage, we now want a car charger installed, I just don't understand on a short run the bloody penny pinching, so now I've got to run another cable, how effective was that led light positioned like it was? I can see why you did it but it doesn't look like it will work well?
Brilliant job
Hello mate thank you for your video,can I ask a question please how would you run cabling to patio ground lights?hi tuf or swa as swa hard to make end in small fitting box.thank you in advance
Hi mate, i'm leaving the Army in a year. Just wondering whats the best way to becoming an electrician?. Also i want to ask, as they say "dont ask dont get", could i possibly work for you for (free) in my spare time to gain the very valuable experience, which will benefit me for when i start the electrical course that i will be starting on 27th Jan 2020?.
How deep is the cable under the path? Helpful video, thanks.
Nice work but not so sure about the flexi conduit. Looks temporary imo. I'd have used pvc conduit throughout.
Great video and work 👍. Question, when running the cable from the house to the shed, did you clip the cable to the fence post or gravel board?
How high does the cable need to be above ground or how low below ground?
nick why 2 boxes for the wired armoured?
Liked the video - cheers! Quick question when would you need a DB say for example if you were using as an office just pulling power for a charger and a light would you still need one or would a fused spur be acceptable?
Roughly how much does and operation like this cost? I'm not an electrician and would like some power in my shed, trying to find the safest/cheapest way possible, tia
Great video
Really good content for your first video pal, like how you explain everything and why your doing it that way. Keep up the good work hope to see more
lloyd grant thanks Lloyd? Hopefully they will get better and better
What type of cable did you run from the consumer unit to the outside wisker box?
Have I just witnessed the start of the flexicon saga?! 😂
Yep 😂
great work ,how much does it cost approx for similar my shed is 3 metres from bungalow
This has aged well Nick
Hey Guys, can anyone help, im struggling to understand what the use for a WISKA box is? why not go straight through the shed into a consumer unit? thanks
You could be then potentially having outside water, condensation etc go straight into the fuse board, that's what I would do unless the swa has a slight decent run into the shed first.
Just seen your videos whilst looking around at other sparky videos. Quick question, ring or radial for the sockets ?
Looked like radial to me
Radial bud sorry didn’t see ur comment first time
You must have asked that wall very nicely not to blow out more than that. :) Just out of curiosity was the circuit in the main board supplying the circuit to the shed protected by an RCD? If so, did you consider using a 100amp main switch in the shed board instead of the additional RCD? (discrimination/selectivity and all that jazz) just an observation dude :) Excellent job. Looking forward to more content.
Peter Tallowin lol very nicely, and yeah 100a 30mA cd protecting the armoured with a 50 amp mcb, and shed end I changed the main switch to a 40a 30mA rcd but for added protect because of the distance from main board, thanks for watching Pete 🤙 loads more to come soon
Splendid. :) I like your style dude and look forward to future content. A pleasure to watch people who care about what they do. Thanks for the reply. Oh and if you haven't already, you should check out DSS Electrical and Artisan Electrics as well. So many quality dudes posting quality content.
Hi Nick! Just adding to what Peter Tallowin said also check out all the following channels if you follow my trusted electrician. Thomas Nagy, David Savery Electrical Services, CRJ electrical, John ward, sparky ninja, the guys at gsh electrical, big Clive and e5 group 👍 keep up the good work!
@@s_a_m_85 yeah what he said. :)
N Bundy Electrical there is no selectivity offered by using a lower rated RCD this is just its maximum current rating. It’s often hard to achieve and keep prices down but 30ma rcds in series is not great practice and rarely do they operate independently or as expected.
Fair play for putting your work online to be judged but I think it’s a great platform for learning these days.
Good Video. Question: I presume that your SWA was connected to the CU and got its earth there, in the house at that end, but don't you need to connect another earth at the shed end directly from the SWA to ground there also? running long SWA's I'da thought you'd need an earthing plate at the shed end running into the ground, am I wrong? To rely on the main CU earthing at the house end CU using long runs of SWA to the shed, would you need another earth at the shed end driven into the ground, just to be sure?
Not if it tests out okay (not going in to much detail) but if it doesnt you dont take the houses earthing into the shed CU for instance and instead you earth the shed installation using a ground rod however this is generally not required
Great content mate - keep them coming . I was wondering which rounded screws you normally use on your SWA ? Cheers
Richard Whitwam cheers bud and these ones www.screwfix.com/p/quicksilver-pz-round-head-woodscrews-10-x-2-200-pack/19141
hi mate, how did you go from the light switch to the light fitting in the single piece of flexi con??
I took power to the switch bud 👍
Liked and subscribed. Good first video Nick. I’m currently doing a domestic electrician course as I wanted a career change. I’m getting loads of great information off guys like Thomas Nagy and Chris from CJR Electrical just by watching their videos. Looking forward to more content from you too 👍👍
Craig Gifford yeah I subscribe to both of them too, it’s what made me want to do my own videos, I’ve never edited anything before so hopefully they will get better with each video 👍
@@NBundyElectrical thanks for not doing the usual thing of being rude to Domestic Installers ! I also did the course last year for a late career change and to firm up the knowledge gained over 30 years of doing up houses, we realise we are not time served electricians like you guys, but your videos (and Thomas and My Trusted Electrician) all help us do better work. Good luck to you too Craig !
Where are you doing the course and who with? Cheers
@@GaryThomo I did mine with TradeSkills. To be honest, they just get you through the exams, the hard part is when you are out in the real world working this out. Its where the learning really starts !!!!
@@roadiesean I get what you mean, I have wanted to change my career for years now and I find electrics so interesting, problem like most i suppose is that i work 5 days a week so finding time will be difficult. I will look into Tradeskills
How did you connect it into the consumer unit? Seperate MCB off a RCB? Or off a RCBO?
Hello sam I see this comments is 7 months old but did you ever find your answer for this question thanks
@@battlefieldgamer3936 Nope :/
Hi, Just wondered why you put the board so low down when kids can gain access. Comment already made about size of cable. 2.5mm would have carried enough surely for a shed ? good video !
Tony Young customer asked to have it low due to shelf’s going above and there will be another summerhouse run from this
i've done exactly the same job back in 2018. A lot of digging involved and cutting the slabs and concrete. What size of cable you used ?
Hi, you seem to think that we know what you know. Please get in a little closer so we can see what it is you are talking about. Even if these close ups are edited in afterwards. Some of the items you were using should be seen close up so we know and have a fuller understanding. For example you may have a pet name for something whereas we may know it by another name. Hope that helps.
Love the videos bud. What did you use to join the T&E to the SWA?
What book did you use for calculating the spacings?
Liked and followed.Great Video for first one.just one question is ok to have consumer unit so low?.
Gavin De Brito hey thanks for watching an the customer wanted shelf’s on wall above so I put it where it wouldn’t be covered in an emergency 👍
Yea I though was about 1350-1450.but the customer is always Right.👍
6way DB for couple lights and sockets man? 3 way garage DB...sorted
For the sake of £30 difference it gives the room to upgrade in the future. 3 more ways cant hurt...
I bloke a work with had this exact job done and lives over Wolverhampton way.. Could be his house haha!
11:00 Why do you have a metal box CU for save for fire if the backside have a big hole and do you screw it on a wood? If the back metal too - I can understand it. The fire from inside the box can nothing crashed.
If the shed in fire it is equal of course.
Use a proper disc on your grinder. That disc you used is for metal. Buy a masonry/stone disc, like a knife through butter :)
"Trying flexicon for the first time" 14:15
That’s where it all started 😂
Great vid, didn’t realise this was your first.. thought you were joking when you said you were using flexible conduit for the first time. Ha. 🙈
Wait hold up (*takes a second to convert since I'm a dumb yank*) ... 10 mm wire is 8 AWG wire.... which we use for up to 40A. Your voltage is double, so you should be able to get 80A on that. Why would you need 80A between a shed a "summer home"? I agree with a previous comment -- they're gonna be growing weed out there.
Voltage may be doubled, but ampacity isn't. So that would 4.8 kW vs 9.6 kW, but it's not the whole story.
We still use 240V in the US; the major difference is where neutral (and earth ground) are referenced: we use the midpoint (0V +- 120V) and they use one end (0V + 240V). Subpanels are fed with full service (2 hots, neutral, ground) because a 120V panel is useless if you need a 240V circuit _and_ because it makes balancing the legs more difficult.
Bearing all that in mind, an equivalent US-market 40A subpanel installation would supply a maximum of . . . 9.6 kW. Just like this. Only on this side of the pond you'd have to worry about balancing the 120V legs, unless it were supplying a 240V load circuit - and in that case an isolator switch would probably be the better choice.
As others have said, cable looks a bit shite coming all over the walls like that, but i'm sure you will have read them and taken notice and it's all about improving going forward hey? Some of these jokers in the comments make out like they know everything and do everything perfectly.
Take no notice bud, i really enjoy your vids.
Out of interest what sort of money would that job cost?
My neighbor electrition recommended using 4mm core armoured cable and connect it directly into the RCD in the house.
Great 👍
I bet that was an expensive job.
Top video Nick!, any particular reason for using 10mm?
Apluselectricalsolutions cheers bud, it was to allow another shed be bounced of this supply, there is another video called Koplex later on which does this 👍
Ah makes sense, always got to think of future proofing 👍🏻
Obviously growing their own weed in that shed : )
So did you feed this from an mcb in the house consumer unit in the house if so what size mcb did you use. Is the swa rcd protected
greg davies yeah it’s cover by a 30mA rcd, and run from a 40 amp breaker
@@NBundyElectrical so its rcd protected at the main house board and then rcd protected at the shed end. Dose this not mean if there is a fault in the shed end would it not also trip the rcd in the main house c.u as well
Yeah it will on some occasion, I had original quoted to fit an rcbo board on the shed end but customer changed plans last min, I’m going to change the house fuse board and relocate it soon and change this abit to prevent this 👍
@@NBundyElectrical ok it's a weird situation cus they want you to rcd protect the cable feeding the shed c.u but you dont want 2 rcd covering the same thing because if there is a fault in the shed the rcd in the house might trip before the rcd in the shed
Yeah that’s the issue exactly will sort it all soon anyway,
Just out of interest. How come you've used a 10mm SWA not a 6mm SWA?
Ryan Calderwood Nelson there is another shed going further down the garden running from this board so wanted to same sure that with the length of cable voltage drop would be minimal for the addition shed 👍
@@NBundyElectrical Ah right I see. What was the length in total? Because I was just wondering could I use a 6mm SWA to run approximately 25meters to a shed, of a 32A MCB to feed a 2 Way C.U which has a 20AMCB and 6A MCB
@@ryancalderwoodnelson2411 Yeah 6mm is fine, 4mm would do depending on if the cable is buried and other factors.
@@Brynoize Ok. Cheers.
@@ryancalderwoodnelson2411 all depends on the potential load which dictates the cable size and account for voltage drop
Sorry, a bit more thought about the cable run would have resulted in a much neater job. Drilling the hole through the house very near the corner would have enabled a neater vertical cable drop that visually would have been lost in the corner.
As the homeowner is planning to pave over the concrete path it would have been better (but more work) to grind out the full length to the wall so the cable would have been buried - this would also allow drilling the brick wall below the concrete level so keeping the cable hidden.
Why did you not terminate the SWA at the shed distribution board? Also unclear why you terminated at the Wiska box on the outside of the house - ugly ugly.
I did a very similar job on my property and it took me all day to run 30m of SWA. Mind you it was my first time and the cable run is either hidden or unobtrusive - but then I am not an electrician and my time is ‘free’. Yes a qualified electrician tested and made the final connection to supply.
👍🇬🇧
U do a good job mate how are u ok mate hove a good day mate form Greg Bouchard hove a good day mate how a good day mate how are u ok mate hove a good day how are u ok mate hove a good one mate
Looks horrendous
Show some of your work then !
Constructive
Harsh. Like a lot of people are saying he should of brought the armour straight from the wall