With outdoor sockets I use plumbers mate putty around the screws that hold the socket back to the wall, as you tighten the screws up the putty will force around the screws sealing the hole. Plumbers mate doesn't dry up so will always seal, I know it sounds daft to use plumbers mate but it's just putty. Quality job as always, keep them coming. Col.
Thanks Gaz. I was just watching your R2 testing for lighting circuits. I've never in my life done any R2 testing. I feel like I've been robbed 😅 if I was to carry out R2 is there another way to prove polarity?
Breakfast sorted, winters here time to get the work trousers out fella😀✌️. Good educational, entertaining video, love it. Cheers Luke.. p.s leave the sweeping up to the chippies.
I have it on good authority that it's in case of condensation that they recommend drain holes, great job as usual good for apprentice to see a proper tradesman at work
Thanks mate. I've had a few comments questioning why I earth the galv nipple between the boxes. Is it that weird? I'd feel wrong to not earth something metallic I've run cable through 🤔
When drilling outside from inside, take it off hammer, yes it takes longer, but hammer most of the way until the last 10 percent, then take it off, you'll never have a blowout
Sorry to be off topic but does anybody know of a way to get back into an Instagram account..? I stupidly forgot the login password. I would love any assistance you can give me.
@Dakota Stephen thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and Im trying it out now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
You can indeed sir. You may be referring to the white 20mm stuffing gland I used for the water feature. It was all I had on the van and I hadn't planned on there even being a water feature on site. It was supposed to be something the customer was thinking of getting in the future.
Nice video and nice work. I have just subscribed mate. Also I have been saying the same thing for a while about the Wiska boxes. I even sent them a message about this. They have finally released one with a rear entry! It's the Wiska 407 combi box, dimensions are 95mm x 95mm x 60mm, so it is only slightly larger than the 308 box that you have used in this video. The 407 box has two rear entries at the top corners, this allows you to still use the mounting bracket, as that requires the middle part to lock into and so it couldn't be centre entry at the rear if you know what I mean, it also has a 25mm threaded entry unlike the 308 box which only has 20mm threaded entries.
"Toilet tubes" 😂😂 that's what I'm getting on the front of my house ... now I will forever think of them as toilet tubes haha cheers. Love the breakfast gonna try that tomorrow morning 😀
I have outside garage/ porch lights but they are all controlled by a single Dusk-to-Dawn Sensor (photocell), so they only come on from, well..dusk to dawn! On saying that, I do like the Timeguard units as I have the exact same one to get the towel radiator nice 'n' toasty before shower time! :D
I actually prefer a little of both but as you can imagine it's expensive to install a timer and photocell for 1 circuit. It's actually what I install a lot of for commercial properties. The photocell will turn lights on when it's dark, but the timer will ensure that they're not running all night. This will increase the life span of the lights/lamps and save money on the electric bill.
My Trusted Electrician - Carshalton, Wallington and Coulsdon www.wickes.co.uk/Masterplug-Weatherproof-Dusk-to-Dawn-Timer-Switch---Grey/p/117864 These are fantastic for controlling outdoor lighting circuits. I mounted one on the back of the garage for all the garden lighting and one on the front of the house for the soffit lighting. Two dials on the inside, one for light sensitivity and the other one for the timer (2hr, 4hr, 6hr, 8hr or dusk TIL dawn)
Random one... and probably quite a stupid DIYer question - how are the boxes jointed together - screw thread or some fancy way of setting it up!? I normally run a short length of conduit between them, resulting in a 50mm gap - but butting them up looks much much better - ta!
@@doctorelectric470Oh that is a new contraption that's still in the early testing stages. It's not been released yet for purchase. It's supposed to help clean floors but I don't think it'll take off personally.
Qualify video mate, the hash brown in the McMuffin is the only way to go! What I like about your videos and other electricians vlogs I follow are it’s all the real life situations such as not having a Whiska box on the van 🙄🤦🏻♂️ Happens all the time and it’s a dash to find a local wholesaler! I love that fact it’s not just our wholesaler who gives you the wrong gear and you don’t realise until you get to site!🤬 The Whiska back entry thing is so true! Would make like so much easier like you say every outside flood light or future outside light feed we run we have to do the same, spin a hole out the back and then fill with CT1 to maintain the IP rating. The customer doing their own lights and bang💥🤣 Bread and butter work to a spark that. Keep up the good videos mate, quality work 👍🏻
8:39 A stuffing gland, ran out of kopex glands on the van bud. It's great to see the additional thought of fitting spacers to the back boxes. I know the circuit is already protected by an RCD, but can you also fit an RCD switched socket outlet for the outside? Hopefully? Under fault conditions you will achieve discrimination and not trip the RCBO in the ccu?
Hi Hiccupp77, you wouldn't put 2x RCDS like you said for discrimination reason (selectivity under the 18th 536.4.1.4) we wouldn't be able to rely on "hopefully" right?
Haha, I have bloody kopex glands falling out my ears on the van. You get 10 in every bundle and I rarely use them all. It's flex and so I use a stuffing gland. I don't believe kopex is water tight although I may be wrong. Also I need to secure the flex from flying out of the box if somebody was to pull it at the other end 😉
Ahahaha I'm a first year and came across this video , thought I was the only one who threw the hash brown on the sandwich 😂 my journeyman always makes fun of me for that lol , good video tho keep it up
What’s the wiring arrangement for the spur, single socket, light and timer in the garage anyone ? Your going from CU on a 20amp radial to the Switched fused spur on the supply side derating to what amp? Then feeding single socket and timer and from the load side? I’m confused, no judgement just trying to vision it in my head? Top video keep um coming !
Quick question U had two cables coming down one into the fused spur and one leg in the double socket We're both of these flat twin and earth coming from that indoor socket?? Thanks for the upload
Why don't the cable manufacturers insulate the earth wires in your 1.5mm2 & 2.5mm2 Twin & earth? BTW our day to day price for an RCBO is AUD 30ish (GE/Legrand/Hager Schneider is a little more 6kA c curve 6 - 45A)
You could argue that the galv nipple is not accessible but it just feels right to earth it as I have live cables running through it. It's just how I do it.
That is a great question! So both jobs were alterations/additions to existing circuits and either were in a special location. This means that both can be covered with a simple MWC. However it's worth noting that a MWC does not ask for ring continuity values which I would consider important for work carried out on a ring circuit. I would write these values down in the notes column.
I never use plastic sockets or fittings in any out building, garage, shed etc. Two reasons, firstly they are not as tough as metal and secondly and most importantly, if a plastic switch or socket gets covered in condensation you can receive quite a nasty shock from it. This doesn't happen with metal as they're usually earthed and if they get too damp they will knock of the RCD. Of course you can't earth plastic so current can track along the condensation enough to make the socket (or film of condensation) live but not enough to register at the RCD. It drives me mad when I see qualified electricians using plastic in damp out buildings.
With outdoor sockets I use plumbers mate putty around the screws that hold the socket back to the wall, as you tighten the screws up the putty will force around the screws sealing the hole. Plumbers mate doesn't dry up so will always seal, I know it sounds daft to use plumbers mate but it's just putty. Quality job as always, keep them coming. Col.
That's a good shout mate!
A must watch channel keep up the great work Gaz
Thanks Gaz. I was just watching your R2 testing for lighting circuits. I've never in my life done any R2 testing. I feel like I've been robbed 😅 if I was to carry out R2 is there another way to prove polarity?
Nice one breakfast of champions.
It is indeed. Although I do spend the rest of the day farting like a gooden 😅
My Trusted Electrician - Carshalton, Wallington and Coulsdon HaHa 😂 second that.
@@MyTrustedElectrician can you record these too? im training
Really great video love the instructional nature of your videos please keep them coming
Breakfast sorted, winters here time to get the work trousers out fella😀✌️. Good educational, entertaining video, love it. Cheers Luke.. p.s leave the sweeping up to the chippies.
Kind words buddy 🤗
My solution for lights on pebble dash is to use mouse mat material - the 5mm thick some neoprene sort. It's waterproof and takes up the uneven gap.
Nice idea.
From one electrician to another, great work!
Thank you very much 🤗
I have it on good authority that it's in case of condensation that they recommend drain holes, great job as usual good for apprentice to see a proper tradesman at work
You do indeed have it on good authority regulation 522.3.2
Love seeing family in videos it really humanizes you
Nice video and nice work your work is very important in network section
Nice way to join the IP Socket and Spur mate!! Top video as always! 🙌🏻🙌🏻
Thanks mate. I've had a few comments questioning why I earth the galv nipple between the boxes. Is it that weird? I'd feel wrong to not earth something metallic I've run cable through 🤔
I’d be the same as you mate, earth everything! 😂
When drilling outside from inside, take it off hammer, yes it takes longer, but hammer most of the way until the last 10 percent, then take it off, you'll never have a blowout
Sorry to be off topic but does anybody know of a way to get back into an Instagram account..?
I stupidly forgot the login password. I would love any assistance you can give me.
@Rudy Alec Instablaster =)
@Dakota Stephen thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and Im trying it out now.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Dakota Stephen it worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my ass!
@Rudy Alec happy to help xD
Great video as always. Just one thing, you can get black ip67 glands for Flexi conduit, much neater looking! Top work though mate.
You can indeed sir. You may be referring to the white 20mm stuffing gland I used for the water feature. It was all I had on the van and I hadn't planned on there even being a water feature on site. It was supposed to be something the customer was thinking of getting in the future.
Those lights on the side of the garage looks nice
The customer supplied them. They're LED. Not a bad light to install.
Nice video and nice work. I have just subscribed mate. Also I have been saying the same thing for a while about the Wiska boxes. I even sent them a message about this. They have finally released one with a rear entry! It's the Wiska 407 combi box, dimensions are 95mm x 95mm x 60mm, so it is only slightly larger than the 308 box that you have used in this video. The 407 box has two rear entries at the top corners, this allows you to still use the mounting bracket, as that requires the middle part to lock into and so it couldn't be centre entry at the rear if you know what I mean, it also has a 25mm threaded entry unlike the 308 box which only has 20mm threaded entries.
Thanks again for a great video. As an electrician's mate I'm interested in the tests, continuity, IR, Zs etc.....any chance of a bit more of that?
I'll try and dedicate a video to testing mate. Good shout.
"Toilet tubes" 😂😂 that's what I'm getting on the front of my house ... now I will forever think of them as toilet tubes haha cheers. Love the breakfast gonna try that tomorrow morning 😀
Great idea spacing the accessories off of the wall definitely helps to comply with regulation 522.9 which a lot of people don't generally considered.
Nice job
I have outside garage/ porch lights but they are all controlled by a single Dusk-to-Dawn Sensor (photocell), so they only come on from, well..dusk to dawn!
On saying that, I do like the Timeguard units as I have the exact same one to get the towel radiator nice 'n' toasty before shower time! :D
I actually prefer a little of both but as you can imagine it's expensive to install a timer and photocell for 1 circuit.
It's actually what I install a lot of for commercial properties. The photocell will turn lights on when it's dark, but the timer will ensure that they're not running all night. This will increase the life span of the lights/lamps and save money on the electric bill.
My Trusted Electrician - Carshalton, Wallington and Coulsdon www.wickes.co.uk/Masterplug-Weatherproof-Dusk-to-Dawn-Timer-Switch---Grey/p/117864 These are fantastic for controlling outdoor lighting circuits. I mounted one on the back of the garage for all the garden lighting and one on the front of the house for the soffit lighting. Two dials on the inside, one for light sensitivity and the other one for the timer (2hr, 4hr, 6hr, 8hr or dusk TIL dawn)
What a legend, keep up the brilliant videos matey and the banter :-)
Did you not have the end for the copex instead of that white gland pal? You know what I mean don’t you?
Thanks for the video Buddy. Nice job.
Great video 👍 keep them coming!
Quality jobs, nicely done buddy. Will definitely be giving the hash browns butty a crack lol.
😅😅😅
Random one... and probably quite a stupid DIYer question - how are the boxes jointed together - screw thread or some fancy way of setting it up!? I normally run a short length of conduit between them, resulting in a 50mm gap - but butting them up looks much much better - ta!
Have you completed the Electricians Broom handling course and completed a risk assessment for Broom related injuries (I guess mostly physiological).
can you run through that bit at the end with the big wooden thing? Haven't worked it out yet!
Sure which wooden thing? The garage?
@@MyTrustedElectrician that big thing with the bristles on the end, what is that?
@@doctorelectric470Oh that is a new contraption that's still in the early testing stages. It's not been released yet for purchase. It's supposed to help clean floors but I don't think it'll take off personally.
Qualify video mate, the hash brown in the McMuffin is the only way to go!
What I like about your videos and other electricians vlogs I follow are it’s all the real life situations such as not having a Whiska box on the van 🙄🤦🏻♂️ Happens all the time and it’s a dash to find a local wholesaler!
I love that fact it’s not just our wholesaler who gives you the wrong gear and you don’t realise until you get to site!🤬
The Whiska back entry thing is so true! Would make like so much easier like you say every outside flood light or future outside light feed we run we have to do the same, spin a hole out the back and then fill with CT1 to maintain the IP rating.
The customer doing their own lights and bang💥🤣 Bread and butter work to a spark that. Keep up the good videos mate, quality work 👍🏻
Thanks Jay 🤗
8:39 A stuffing gland, ran out of kopex glands on the van bud. It's great to see the additional thought of fitting spacers to the back boxes. I know the circuit is already protected by an RCD, but can you also fit an RCD switched socket outlet for the outside? Hopefully? Under fault conditions you will achieve discrimination and not trip the RCBO in the ccu?
Hi Hiccupp77, you wouldn't put 2x RCDS like you said for discrimination reason (selectivity under the 18th 536.4.1.4) we wouldn't be able to rely on "hopefully" right?
Haha, I have bloody kopex glands falling out my ears on the van. You get 10 in every bundle and I rarely use them all. It's flex and so I use a stuffing gland. I don't believe kopex is water tight although I may be wrong. Also I need to secure the flex from flying out of the box if somebody was to pull it at the other end 😉
Hi, what glands are you using for the weatherproof boxes? It looks like it saves a lot of time. Thank you
I call the glands 'stuffing glands' the wholesaler refers to them as nylon compression glands'. shame I only had a white one aye
Ahahaha I'm a first year and came across this video , thought I was the only one who threw the hash brown on the sandwich 😂 my journeyman always makes fun of me for that lol , good video tho keep it up
nothing like starting the day with McDonalds!
What’s the wiring arrangement for the spur, single socket, light and timer in the garage anyone ? Your going from CU on a 20amp radial to the Switched fused spur on the supply side derating to what amp? Then feeding single socket and timer and from the load side? I’m confused, no judgement just trying to vision it in my head? Top video keep um coming !
Marcus Moore 13A
I presume you used wagos to extend one leg of the existing behind the original socket?
You bet baby
Great vid. Thanks for sharing. 🐵
You’re not doing any more videos?
Quick question
U had two cables coming down one into the fused spur and one leg in the double socket
We're both of these flat twin and earth coming from that indoor socket??
Thanks for the upload
Yes, to extend the ring circuit mate. So I could spur oof more then once.
on the loop isnt there supposed to be 2 neutrals also one in and 1 out to next fitting?
It was the last point mate 👍
My Trusted Electrician - Carshalton, Wallington and Coulsdon ahh I see thanks mate keep up the good work and videos very informative
Top entry conduit not good idea how well is that sealed I would bring conduit down to a t box then go either way to socket and spur
There is wiska boxes with back entry mate
You're probably right. I know they have a ton of gadgets now.
I will try get you the model number
Why did you use the piranha nut? Just to earth the coupler?
Yeh, you could argue that it is unaccessible but it's good practice.
@@MyTrustedElectrician could you have used a plastic coupler?
And expensive!
Why don't the cable manufacturers insulate the earth wires in your 1.5mm2 & 2.5mm2 Twin & earth? BTW our day to day price for an RCBO is AUD 30ish (GE/Legrand/Hager Schneider is a little more 6kA c curve 6 - 45A)
Andrew @ DNN I know what you mean it’s a pain in the arse
Why us the ring circuit on a type c32 ?
20m contractors pack would be more suited for that
Why did you decide to use an earth nut instead of a ribbed lock ring? just curious.
You could argue that the galv nipple is not accessible but it just feels right to earth it as I have live cables running through it. It's just how I do it.
What testing is needed mate After these jobs were completed
That is a great question!
So both jobs were alterations/additions to existing circuits and either were in a special location. This means that both can be covered with a simple MWC. However it's worth noting that a MWC does not ask for ring continuity values which I would consider important for work carried out on a ring circuit. I would write these values down in the notes column.
good job bro I want this job.plz
I have been there about 6 times it is a pain
if that was a timer spur no need for the extra spur unit
Why wouldn’t you just put a cu in the garage ?? With a spare way for the timer ?
Just? 😮 Sounds like a big job.
I never use plastic sockets or fittings in any out building, garage, shed etc. Two reasons, firstly they are not as tough as metal and secondly and most importantly, if a plastic switch or socket gets covered in condensation you can receive quite a nasty shock from it. This doesn't happen with metal as they're usually earthed and if they get too damp they will knock of the RCD. Of course you can't earth plastic so current can track along the condensation enough to make the socket (or film of condensation) live but not enough to register at the RCD. It drives me mad when I see qualified electricians using plastic in damp out buildings.