Well I wasn’t that impressed with your execution of tapping or drilling, but my hat goes off to you for the sheer number of different solutions and brake bleeders you found! Who knew they made an insert with a smaller bleed nipple in one piece. Great research job! Glad you got it all sorted out in the end.
No you are right...I wasn't impressed with my bodged drilling and tapping either! As they say "Fools rush in" When I come to do the other side I will be wiser... Mike
I've seen others have more luck with time insert as opposed to helicoils. Apologies I now see you used all the best equipment & spares. Perfect. I could never top that. Thankyou
Thanks for your comment - yes that was a faff. The friend I bought the car from, was quoted 3k from Mercedes to redo the rusty brake lines...so it was worth the effort. Mike
Hi - yes that induction rod saved the day, and has been really useful getting seized fitting free on my Pagoda in situations where you cant use a MAP torch. The joys of English rust.... Mike
@@MikesMercsandothercarsuse the fine head on a map torch mate if you need concentrated heat. I can heat a 5mm 316 stainless bolt up on a GRP boat with the fine head and not burn even the gell coat. If im using the normal head or typhoon/cyclone type heads on the torch it would blister the gellcoat up in about 3 sec flat. The fine tip comes out the torch in a pattern that looks like a thorn and you can dial the thing down so its basically the length and width of a matchstick
If you can send me a link to the type of fine head you use on your torch, I'll get one and maybe do a little video on the subject. Mike@@bigduphusaj162
@@MikesMercsandothercarsended up doing the same as you with a new M12 with valve seat that fits the oem M8 inside, so thankyou very much for the solution!
Induction heater + impact driver - The best extraction solution I've seen so far.. I've got to attempt this solution soon on both rear calipers of my Skoda Fabia. I haven't inspected it yet, but dealers advised that its £600 a side to replace wifh new.! I wonder if a can of plumbers freezer spray, in addition to the heat, would assist in the removal. I suppose that differential in the coefficient of expansion between steel and aluminium would come into play. Also, wonder if its possible to reverse the electro-phorectic induced adhesion by using an electrical current - one pole on the nipple, one on the caliper, applied in the reverse direction to the transfer. I would imagine you would need to do a disconnect the caliper from the hub mechanically, hydraulically and electrically and bench it. Alternatively, I wonder if anybody has seen examples of hand-held ultra sound machines being used to rock the nipple free.? I presume a steel insert would inhibit further corrosion and adhesion. So, you have got to wonder why Mercedes, as a prestige brand, are not stipulating this in their subby supply contracts ? Wonder if a very light smearing of water-repelling calcium grease on the new nipple would inhibit any future electro-phorectic action.? I think the glued in spark plug insert solution was what was used for the crankcase (Aluminium) drain plug (Steel) on my Honda CB125 M/C in the 1970s, when I over-tightened it and split the crankcase at the edge of the plug hole. In those days they used bog-standard araldite as the glue and to cap it off used an old spark-plug, with the insulator cut-off as the new drain plug. Real back street mechanicing. Worked-a-treat 'til I had the time and money to disaasemble the engine and take the damaged half of the crankcase to an engineering works.
Holy Smoly - £600? That sounds like AMG prices. That induction torch has proved to be a god send - and in fact I just lent it to AutoClassico in Bristol to try and unseize a really awkward window wiper spindle on a very old merc. I tried cheap and cheerful freeze spray on this job and it didn't work. I have since bought a can of Wurth Blue Ice Rost Off spray which I have yet to test. eshop.wurth.co.uk/Product-categories/Rust-remover-Rost-Off-Blue-Ice/31083008050103.cyid/3108.cgid/en/GB/GBP/ Good luck with your job. Mike
I’ve managed to break off two bleed nipples on my 1992 BMW 730i. I’m going to try an impact screwdriver to shock the threads in the unscrew direction. Too late to try the induction thingy as they’ve already broken off.
Oh no! With the benefit of hindsight, the best option is probably to take off the callipers and give them to a machine shop to drill out and re-tap. Trying to do it by eye without a really good pillar drill is fraught with danger. There are a couple of companies in the UK where you can send the whole calliper. Sometime those bleed nipples are not coming out whatever you try. Mike
Let me know how you get on - but...once you knacker that nice straight and centered hole down into the nipple, like gets much harder. Mike@@thesushifiend
I've had good luck with electric impacts on caliper bleeders. Dont hit it full blast, let it hammer forwards then backwards until it starts to move them you can zip it out.
Thanks for your comment. Yes a good impact can help...gently does it. I usually do water pump bolts with an impact...but last time 5 out of 6 snapped! Cant win them all....Mike
Youre not supposed to use inserts on brake calipers they are known for leaking and melting and popping and even causing a fire if you get a caliper bind up. They arent watertight threads so is an automatic MOT fail if they get spotted in a caliper. Heat wise you are best using Map-x on an alloy caliper mate as it can heat just the nipple quick without putting to much surrounding heat in like a weaker torch would as you need to stay in longer. If you dont want to damage anything you quench the bleeder with water so get it red hot then immediately spray it with cold water. The most you will ever have to do this is 3 times and the bleeder will come out with a set of cobras or moleys nevermind a socket. They irwin stud removers are crap now, Snap-on bought them over and now sell the older Irvins under their own name and Irwin sell junk ones in the same sort of box the oldsr ones had.
Great comments - thank you. Interesting what you say on the threads. The green Loctite is specifically designed to seal threads and fill any gaps (as opposed to the red or blue)...and is supposedly heat resistant. I guess - a good way to test this is to take the car on the track. Good excuse to test the handling. Car is coming up for an MOT so it will be interesting to see if they pick up on that. They are usually pretty strict on brake related stuff. Not familiar with ' cobras or moleys' but will check these out. Similarly never new about Map X burning hotter so that is another great piece of info. Would be really interested to see Map X vs Induction torch. Probably have a chance to test this when I come to do the other caliper. Thanks again for sharing your experience - whenever I watch a RUclips video, I always read the comments because that is where the experience often lies. Mike
this is why you heat and quench every bleed nipple that even threatenes to stay on as soon as you go any further. Map-x torches are great but you need the fine head on them or they can create too much surrounding heat as he said. The fine tip nozzle on a mapX torch is amazing for this and all you do is heat it and spray it with cold water twice or at the vey most 3 times. They usually come off after the first quench. Also to protect calipers from heat its easy, last time i did this i used meatal sheet plates that were designed to hold fire extinguishers and had a 12mm hole in them for the screw. I bent them over the caliper so the only thing pretrudung out was the bleeder and the paint on the caliper went to about luke warm water temp with the bleeder being red hot twice.
Thanks for your comment. Obviously the magnet only picks up swath from the steel brake bleed nipple. You need to put a small nail down the hole as shown at 14.51 to stop any aluminium swath getting into the line. If I do find a magnet for aluminium I'll be sure to let you know... Mike
Spray bottle whith Awsome they sell at Dollar tree spay it whith it let set a couple minuts sray again then stiff toothbrush clean around it wire brush spay one more time whith Awsome then spray whith Lubricant vice grips grips tite as u can get them on it then little twist left little twist rite easy 4 or 5 times then it will come loose
……..£600 for a 2nd hand AMG Caliper if you can find one. For the R107 I’m doing current, I would hesitate to buy a new caliper if I ran into similar problems. Mike
OR YOU COULD SO IT RIGHTG THE FIRST TIME AND USE HEAT, I HAVENT BROKEN A BLEEDER IN 20 YEARS AND ILIVEIN THE RUST BELT! AMATURES SHOULD STAY AWAY FROPM FIXING CARS
Thanks for your comment. What heat source do you use on aluminium calipers? I guess all professionals were amateurs when they started out and if you’ve worked on rusty cars for 20 years, I’ll bet you’ve encountered a few 5 minute jobs that turned into a nightmare? Mike
Well I wasn’t that impressed with your execution of tapping or drilling, but my hat goes off to you for the sheer number of different solutions and brake bleeders you found! Who knew they made an insert with a smaller bleed nipple in one piece. Great research job! Glad you got it all sorted out in the end.
No you are right...I wasn't impressed with my bodged drilling and tapping either! As they say "Fools rush in" When I come to do the other side I will be wiser... Mike
I've seen others have more luck with time insert as opposed to helicoils. Apologies I now see you used all the best equipment & spares. Perfect. I could never top that. Thankyou
Yep...I felt like Thomas Edison working out 1000 ways how not to do something. Mike
What a faff and what a star! Brilliantly described and demonstrated as always; well done Mike! 👏👏👏
Thanks for your comment - yes that was a faff. The friend I bought the car from, was quoted 3k from Mercedes to redo the rusty brake lines...so it was worth the effort. Mike
Nice repair Mike. I’ve never seen the heat induction coil tool before. Great info!
Hi - yes that induction rod saved the day, and has been really useful getting seized fitting free on my Pagoda in situations where you cant use a MAP torch. The joys of English rust.... Mike
@@MikesMercsandothercarsuse the fine head on a map torch mate if you need concentrated heat. I can heat a 5mm 316 stainless bolt up on a GRP boat with the fine head and not burn even the gell coat. If im using the normal head or typhoon/cyclone type heads on the torch it would blister the gellcoat up in about 3 sec flat. The fine tip comes out the torch in a pattern that looks like a thorn and you can dial the thing down so its basically the length and width of a matchstick
If you can send me a link to the type of fine head you use on your torch, I'll get one and maybe do a little video on the subject. Mike@@bigduphusaj162
Well done Mike, you finally showed the calliper who's the Boss... 😃
Thanks for your comment....what a battle but we got there ion the end! Mike
Great video. Just done exactly the same on a caliper and it is literally days of slow work trying not to damage the valve seat.
Hope you get it sorted. Mike
@@MikesMercsandothercarsended up doing the same as you with a new M12 with valve seat that fits the oem M8 inside, so thankyou very much for the solution!
Such great instructional videos thank you so much Mike👏
You say the nicest things. Thanks. Mike
I admire your persistence and thinking outside the box. Or should I say outside the caliper?
Yes...that whole episode took me weeks to sort out...but I'm happy to say that it all seems to be working well now. Mike
Great work. Great tools too
Thanks - I sure was glad when that job was over. Mike
Super well covered 👍
Thanks for your comment. Mike
Not all of us home mechanics have the best equipment
Induction heater + impact driver - The best extraction solution I've seen so far.. I've got to attempt this solution soon on both rear calipers of my Skoda Fabia.
I haven't inspected it yet, but dealers advised that its £600 a side to replace wifh new.!
I wonder if a can of plumbers freezer spray, in addition to the heat, would assist in the removal. I suppose that differential in the coefficient of expansion between steel and aluminium would come into play.
Also, wonder if its possible to reverse the electro-phorectic induced adhesion by using an electrical current - one pole on the nipple, one on the caliper, applied in the reverse direction to the transfer. I would imagine you would need to do a disconnect the caliper from the hub mechanically, hydraulically and electrically and bench it.
Alternatively, I wonder if anybody has seen examples of hand-held ultra sound machines being used to rock the nipple free.?
I presume a steel insert would inhibit further corrosion and adhesion. So, you have got to wonder why Mercedes, as a prestige brand, are not stipulating this in their subby supply contracts ?
Wonder if a very light smearing of water-repelling calcium grease on the new nipple would inhibit any future electro-phorectic action.?
I think the glued in spark plug insert solution was what was used for the crankcase (Aluminium) drain plug (Steel) on my Honda CB125 M/C in the 1970s, when I over-tightened it and split the crankcase at the edge of the plug hole. In those days they used bog-standard araldite as the glue and to cap it off used an old spark-plug, with the insulator cut-off as the new drain plug. Real back street mechanicing.
Worked-a-treat 'til I had the time and money to disaasemble the engine and take the damaged half of the crankcase to an engineering works.
Holy Smoly - £600? That sounds like AMG prices. That induction torch has proved to be a god send - and in fact I just lent it to AutoClassico in Bristol to try and unseize a really awkward window wiper spindle on a very old merc.
I tried cheap and cheerful freeze spray on this job and it didn't work. I have since bought a can of Wurth Blue Ice Rost Off spray which I have yet to test.
eshop.wurth.co.uk/Product-categories/Rust-remover-Rost-Off-Blue-Ice/31083008050103.cyid/3108.cgid/en/GB/GBP/
Good luck with your job.
Mike
I’ve managed to break off two bleed nipples on my 1992 BMW 730i. I’m going to try an impact screwdriver to shock the threads in the unscrew direction. Too late to try the induction thingy as they’ve already broken off.
Oh no! With the benefit of hindsight, the best option is probably to take off the callipers and give them to a machine shop to drill out and re-tap. Trying to do it by eye without a really good pillar drill is fraught with danger. There are a couple of companies in the UK where you can send the whole calliper. Sometime those bleed nipples are not coming out whatever you try. Mike
@@MikesMercsandothercars I do actually have a pillar drill, but whether it's really good is another matter altogether!
Let me know how you get on - but...once you knacker that nice straight and centered hole down into the nipple, like gets much harder. Mike@@thesushifiend
I've had good luck with electric impacts on caliper bleeders. Dont hit it full blast, let it hammer forwards then backwards until it starts to move them you can zip it out.
Thanks for your comment. Yes a good impact can help...gently does it. I usually do water pump bolts with an impact...but last time 5 out of 6 snapped! Cant win them all....Mike
Thank you for making ALL the mistakes so we don’t have to. 😅
Thanks for your comment - yes some of those mistakes can be expensive and time consuming. Mike
Youre not supposed to use inserts on brake calipers they are known for leaking and melting and popping and even causing a fire if you get a caliper bind up. They arent watertight threads so is an automatic MOT fail if they get spotted in a caliper. Heat wise you are best using Map-x on an alloy caliper mate as it can heat just the nipple quick without putting to much surrounding heat in like a weaker torch would as you need to stay in longer. If you dont want to damage anything you quench the bleeder with water so get it red hot then immediately spray it with cold water. The most you will ever have to do this is 3 times and the bleeder will come out with a set of cobras or moleys nevermind a socket. They irwin stud removers are crap now, Snap-on bought them over and now sell the older Irvins under their own name and Irwin sell junk ones in the same sort of box the oldsr ones had.
Great comments - thank you.
Interesting what you say on the threads. The green Loctite is specifically designed to seal threads and fill any gaps (as opposed to the red or blue)...and is supposedly heat resistant. I guess - a good way to test this is to take the car on the track. Good excuse to test the handling.
Car is coming up for an MOT so it will be interesting to see if they pick up on that. They are usually pretty strict on brake related stuff.
Not familiar with ' cobras or moleys' but will check these out. Similarly never new about Map X burning hotter so that is another great piece of info. Would be really interested to see Map X vs Induction torch. Probably have a chance to test this when I come to do the other caliper.
Thanks again for sharing your experience - whenever I watch a RUclips video, I always read the comments because that is where the experience often lies. Mike
Good heavens...!! That was one big war, not a battle.
Cant tell you how relieved I am that it is over! Mike
this is why you heat and quench every bleed nipple that even threatenes to stay on as soon as you go any further. Map-x torches are great but you need the fine head on them or they can create too much surrounding heat as he said. The fine tip nozzle on a mapX torch is amazing for this and all you do is heat it and spray it with cold water twice or at the vey most 3 times. They usually come off after the first quench. Also to protect calipers from heat its easy, last time i did this i used meatal sheet plates that were designed to hold fire extinguishers and had a 12mm hole in them for the screw. I bent them over the caliper so the only thing pretrudung out was the bleeder and the paint on the caliper went to about luke warm water temp with the bleeder being red hot twice.
Do you have an aluminum magnet? Please send it to me
Thanks for your comment. Obviously the magnet only picks up swath from the steel brake bleed nipple. You need to put a small nail down the hole as shown at 14.51 to stop any aluminium swath getting into the line. If I do find a magnet for aluminium I'll be sure to let you know... Mike
Great job
Thanks....still have to change the brake line on the other calliper....let's hope it goes better. Mike
if you do happen to drill to deep in to the seat . a small ball bearing under the new nipple will seal it
Thanks for your comment. That is an interesting tip - have you tried it yourself? Mike
@@MikesMercsandothercars yes a few times . grimeca who make some motorcycle calipers use this from factory instead of the tapper on the bleed nipple
Interesting....so often the case that the best info comes in the comments below a video.Mike@@simonrawle7885
Excellent...
Thanks. Mike
Tap on a drill on an aluminium calliper was probably not the right thing to do
It was definitely not the thing to do...one lesson learned the hard way! Mike
Spray bottle whith Awsome they sell at Dollar tree spay it whith it let set a couple minuts sray again then stiff toothbrush clean around it wire brush spay one more time whith Awsome then spray whith Lubricant vice grips grips tite as u can get them on it then little twist left little twist rite easy 4 or 5 times then it will come loose
Interesting - it's always good to read other peoples methods. Mike
For older car's like this,
just buy a brand new brake caliper.
No big deal 😂
Cheap as hell 👍
……..£600 for a 2nd hand AMG Caliper if you can find one. For the R107 I’m doing current, I would hesitate to buy a new caliper if I ran into similar problems. Mike
OR YOU COULD SO IT RIGHTG THE FIRST TIME AND USE HEAT, I HAVENT BROKEN A BLEEDER IN 20 YEARS AND ILIVEIN THE RUST BELT! AMATURES SHOULD STAY AWAY FROPM FIXING CARS
Thanks for your comment.
What heat source do you use on aluminium calipers?
I guess all professionals were amateurs when they started out and if you’ve worked on rusty cars for 20 years, I’ll bet you’ve encountered a few 5 minute jobs that turned into a nightmare?
Mike
You should learn to use a keyboard too
20 years.. now that's a cool lie