Noisy Lifter Solution (LS7 Lifters) | AnthonyJ350
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- Опубликовано: 27 ноя 2019
- We just had the top end done on our 2005 Chevy Silverado with a 4.8L outfitted with Comp Cams components and LS7 lifters. Right off the bat the drivetrain was a little noisy so we decided to do research on how to properly break them in. What we found was some interesting information.
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Noisy Lifter Solution (LS7 Lifters) | AnthonyJ350
• Noisy Lifter Solution ...
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The 5w40 makes alot of sense cause mine would only make noise after idling hot for awhile also now the new corvettes run 5w40 weird
Try it and let us know. Use Castrol 5W40 Synthetic
@@AnthonyJ350 will most definitely im curious as to why u state Castrol
@@bradmcintire8153 It seems to make valvetrain more quiet. I switched my car from Enos 5W30 to 5W40 and sounded the same. Friends recommended Castrol and way more quiet. It's also really affordable and I change my oil often.
@@AnthonyJ350 ok thats what I'll grab maybe a different base oil in the Castrol that helps
@@bradmcintire8153 That's most likely the case
After hearing your motors noise vs. mine (LS2 with a upgraded cam and LS7 lifters) I'm not so worried anymore 😂
Here's a follow up video ruclips.net/video/IgoLVNby9dg/видео.html
Is yours more quiet? I also have headers so that doesn't help.
I just did truck Norris cam, ported polished heads, 102mm fast lsx intake manifold, and I also have LT headers. I put in new rockers, lifters, pushrods as well. Have a NASTY metal on metal sound now, haven’t driven yet. Hopefully it’s a bad new lifter and not valve hitting piston but will follow up once I find out
I put a cam in my LS3 with LS7 lifters and it had the sewing machine noise, the solution was 20w50 royal purple HPS oil and longer pushrods to put the lifter piston way down in the bore. Now it is super quiet and running strong after 13k miles after upgrade.
Thanks for sharing!
The plunger travel on those lifters say its 120 thousandths. I've read 4 different ls books that say plunger preload should be anywhere from 0.030 to 0.090 thousandths. Pushrod length checker helps determine this when tightening rockers to 26ftlbs.
I don't own any modern Fords but I subscribed to the Ford TechMakuloco a long time ago b/c he has great info that you can apply to any car or truck! My new Sierra calls for 0w 20 that stuff is like water! It takes 8 quarts so I run 5 quarts of 0w 20 and then 3 of the 5w 30. I'm tempted to go 5w 30 for the whole 8 quarts.
I would talk to an experienced GM tech at the dealership and see what they think about putting 5W30 synthetic into the engine.
What did you think about the rest of the video and all the oil changes?
I don't t see any issue with straight 5-W30 in a more modern GM LS type engine . From an Ex-GM Tech
Penrite 15w50 HPR extra 10 full zinc Desile semi synth in australia all year Its hot here, was on full synth 5w-30 fixed ( I should say helped the worn ones pump up with out bleeding out the pistons) 220,000km on the clock. Love the magnet idea, and will be doing it on my cam and lifters swap on break in. Will look at the additive/cheaper oil vs penrite cost. Magnets awesome cause people forget how much flows past the bypass valve.There is one issue with running a higher viscosity oil and thats your going to use more fuel and that cost does add up to alot over a year and the life of your vehicle and engine. Great video and bookmarked to pass on.
Thanks so much for sharing your experience of what you use in your area! Glad you found the video helpful 🙂
I run 40wt in my cam, head, lt, stall 5.3... the motor runs alot smoother and it is very noticeable. One other thing that causes lifter noise is the correct preload. Especially on an ls where lash is not adjustable. Good stuff
Thanks for your insight!
Is it just a straight 40WT you run?
This makes a lot of sense.
Thanks for watching!
Got debris In a brand new ls7 lifter in my cammed 5.3 full rebuild and after 10k miles on that engine I'm having to pull the head and replace that whole side. Has had an intermittent lifter tick until sustained 36spi oil. Sometimes would quiet on its own shortly after start up. But twice (including currently) it permanently ticks like the oil inlet got blocked by debris.
Magnetic oil plug. Driven racing BR40 For first heat cycle, filled again for 500 miles. Then 3 3k mile oil changes with Valvoline conventional 30wt. Then after those 9k miles I changed to Mobil 1 Truck and SUV full syn 5w30 it got stuck ticking after 1k miles.
That sucks. I also run a Filtermag on the oil filter to help pull metal particles out when the engine is running. I feel the drain plug only catches filings when the engine is turned off and the oil settles in the pan.
This does make logical sense. To know which oil is applicable for the setup. How much ATF did you add during the break in? Would you recommend this oil viscosity difference for the VQ? I still use 5w30 syn with over 200k and still running strong. But awareness for the lifters to build sediment makes me curious to use 5w40. Thanks for the heads up man.
I put in 1/4 of a liter of the ATF when I was testing. I don't put in ATF with the 5W40. I use 5W40 Castrol professional in the 350Z with the AC Delco supplement and the engine idles waaaaay smoother. Used to tick a lot of 5W30 Eneos, even with the supplement.
@@AnthonyJ350 very interesting AJ. I will try that and let you know my results after my next change. So im assuming the ATF coats the lifters to break away residual shavings. I learned that ATF with acetone is a great substitute for loosening rusty bolts. Great video
@@BoOmBaMan The ATF is a hydraulic fluid which helps the lifters pump up better. The VQ35DE lifter are solid I believe so ATF won't really help but clean the engine a bit because it's high in detergents. 5W40 Castrol and AC Delco supplement should be more than enough. People can barely hear my car idol.
The chain tensioner however us operated by oil pressure so the ATF might help during initial start up. I don't really recommend it, it was just more for experimenting to see how the push rod engine would respond.
I'm going to try the Castrol Pro in the truck for another video. I didn't want to change too many variables for this video since the the truck has only seen Eneos for so long.
@@AnthonyJ350 oh okay you did mention the hydraulic benefits. Right now im using Moly synthetic. The new formula allows finding leaks easier with a UV light. I will try out 5w40. Castrol magnatec is what I've always used though. It's better to be wise about changing variables. There was a kid on you tube that used conventional oil instead of synthetic. His motor was blown and didn't get to hear what caused it but the oil was my guess.
@@BoOmBaMan Please let me know what happens when you change viscosity. I'm interested in your results. If you can comment back on this video so we can build responses for others to read.
Hi. Link to the magnet that you placed on oil filter
Here the video I made on it, there's links in the description ruclips.net/video/Lec_ykPhV8A/видео.html
Do you have the proper preload on the ls7 lifter's?
Yup, after driving the truck for a year they're way more quiet now.
The one thing that is overlooked is original GM oil gallery barbell. The clearance on the stock barbell allows oil to bypass the oil filter. Installing a billet barbell that fits much tighter in the gallery will prevent this material from getting past the filter. If you’ve ever had to change the screen filter under the oil pressure sensor at the back of engine you will see the buildup of crud that gets by the stock barbell. Sac city Corvette videos show installation procedures. Unfortunately engine must be out to remove the rear cover to access the barbell.
Thanks so much for sharing this! Unfortunately not an easy fix for everyone.
So you think vw engines last longer than the gen 3 gm engines? I get tolerances and all of that but I've seen way more lm7 with 400k on them and still pulling like they've got 85k on them.
But good video
I don't know if they last longer. But they are built with tighter tolerances and a lot of them call for 5W40. So by that logic it shouldn't be an issue putting 5W40 synthetic in a gen 3 GM V8 even though it's not stated in the owner's manual.
I had a afm delete on my 18 Silverado. LS7 lifters. I ticks pretty good for the first 10-20 seconds on a cold start. Any ideas?
What oil viscosity does it say on the fill cap. Also what does it say the viscosity options are in the manual?
Also see if a Corvette of the same year uses thicker oil. If it does, try Castrol Synthetic of the same viscosity as the Corvette.
@@AnthonyJ350 my truck calls for 0w-20 and it seems like corvettes with LS7 lifters call for 5w-30. I was thinking of testing out a 5w-20 and see if anything happens.
@@rcvidzOshiit I never liked the idea of 0W20, make sure it has the Dexos certification. I'm interested to see the oil recommendation for trucks sold in Mexico.
If you have AFM delete and the Corvette uses, 5W30 why not use something similar?
So what do you recommend for an engine that's already broken in on the bottom end but had ls7 lifters and all new valvetrain and cam.
Run some sort of break in oil for 200KM change it and put in Castrol 5W40 synthetic with the AC Delco oil supplement. Change that after 500KM and then resume regular intervals. Put a magnetic drain plug on it so you can see the filings
@@AnthonyJ350 I run 2 very powerful Neodymium N45 magnets on my oil filters.
@@kixforrest2358 That's a good idea, I run Filtermag on mine.
@@kixforrest2358 All our vehicles have this
ruclips.net/video/Lec_ykPhV8A/видео.html
I think I've tried in the past, but I cant find the A/C Delco oil supplement here in the states part #992869
Really? The dealership doesn't have it? I can get the stuff at the dealer and the local auto parts store here.
I had a AFM lifter collapse on the passanger side.. so I did the DOD delete and installed ls7 lifters.. after break in for 20 minutes after it was hot at idle it ticks now on passanger side front… basically almost as loud as the reason why I replaced the AFM lifter? Did break in. Flush & new oil with liquid molly lifter assistive.. it still ticks. Was was less with Lucas additive before flush… about to pull it apart and replace all lifters on driver side again… what the heck 🤯
For sure it's not coming from the exhaust manifold? Did you change the oil right away to pull the wear material out so it wouldn't plug up anything?
Check your lifter preload. Oil will not stop a tick unless its starving for oil. Ls7 lifters like to be on the high side of preload... believe me I just swapped pushrods from 7.350 to 7.375 and it made a big difference in noise. Always do your own research. Don't believe the first post you see online.
You are suppose to replace the camshaft when changing to regular lifters. The base circle on the camshaft is smaller on the dod lifter. You probably have some valvetrain slack.
No exhaust leak. It’s been running for 30k miles so far this year. Tick has gotten slightly worse sounds like a lifter still. During break in used break in oil and replaced after 30minutes checked for metal. All good. Been running strong all year just a little ticky haha
She’s been running strong for 30k hard miles
So What was your Solution ? it sounds as noisy as a 1960 Gen 1 SBC.
It's more quiet now, just kept driving it with Castrol 5W40 synthetic.
Here's the video update ruclips.net/video/IgoLVNby9dg/видео.html
Running a btr stage 2 .553 cam with ls7 lifters , lifters started ticking. Is the cam too big for those lifters or did I maybe get a bad batch of lifters ? Tried running 5-40 synthetic with a Lucas synthetic additive. Only fired truck up too see if it would still tick but didn’t drive it.
What length of push rod did you put in? How did it sound idling on 5W40? And what brand did you use?
@@AnthonyJ350 had the motor put together at a shop. They had to use 7.350 because I had the heads/valves done. Tried putting on 7.400 just too see what it did but they were just a bit too tight. It sounded better at first but once it started to warm up you could hear it again. I believe I used valvoline full synthetic 5-40
@@cbc5593 Change the oil right away after driving for a little bit. I was amazed how much filings came out after break in. Try Castrol Synthetic and see if it quiets down.
@@AnthonyJ350 new motor has about 2k miles on it , and it just started ticking a few weeks ago. So try the oil with or without the additive ?
@@cbc5593 I would do Castrol 5W40 synthetic with the AC Delco oil supplement. Change it whenever you can, you have enough mileage for breaking in the cam.
really if you fixed the problem with the valve train noise?
Here's the update video ruclips.net/video/IgoLVNby9dg/видео.html
will this fit a smallblock with a lt4 hotcam
Like can you out 5W40 synthetic in your Chevy Small block?
@@AnthonyJ350 Im pretty sure it can take it
@@1sixkobstahoe138 I don't see why not, my newer Chevy does and the article I found is for engines like that
How about the $200 range Morells?
The lifters with the link bars?
The gm engine oil supplement has the same additives as the royal purple break in oil that your scared of. Your comp cam will ALWAYS sound like a sewing machine compared to stock because of the faster ramp rates.
Thanks for your input! It sounds pretty good on Castrol 5W40 synthetic now. Not nearly as loud as the Royal Purple.
Mine does this ticking ...mostly after running for about an hour
Try Castrol 5W40 Synthetic and then the AC Delco oil supplement to see if anything changes.
@@AnthonyJ350 I put castrol 5w40 but haven't tried that additive..I noticed a little difference with the 40w but still has a light lifter tick after the oil gets hot..I bought the truck restored looks like the topend for sure has been rebuilt or maybe the whole engine has been rebuilt...Heads are very clean under the valve covers and other indicators of top end rebuild atleast maybe they installed a new cam and reworked the heads.Maybe it's still trying to break in?
@@BeardsandCars Ya just keep driving it. There's always going to be a little noise honestly
@@BeardsandCars Here's my follow up video ruclips.net/video/IgoLVNby9dg/видео.html
@@AnthonyJ350 I did watch it also already..did yours or does yours make a light lifter tap after its hot
Am I detecting a Canucian accent??? Are you running the 5-40 in winter?
Yup, it only goes down to -15 to -20 degrees Celcius in my area so I just run it all year round. Ran it for 1 winter so far and oil pressure looked good.
Update, still using 5W40 for Winter and here's how it sounds ruclips.net/video/IgoLVNby9dg/видео.html
I run vegetale oil in my cammed LQ9 6.0 lol sounds great!!
Thanks for sharing!
Ls7 lifters are fine with a stock cam but once you get to a .550 lift or higher you need to use a better quality lifter. GM racing lifters or Johnsons will do.
Thanks for sharing!
I went .553 Brian Tooley stage 2 cam and I’m getting a tick from ls7 lifters with about 2k on fully rebuilt motor 🤔
Solution...WIDESPREAD LIFTER FAILURE part 2 Ellisons Machine Shop Channel here on youtube. It was not your fault initially.
Thanks for sharing!
The lifter noise is coming from the lifter trays and hold the lefter from turning in the lifter bore.
The lifter tray design is terrible. We have three LS engines in the shop this week all Because the lifter trays either wore out or expanded and let the lifter turn slightly in the lifter bore and ruin the lifter and damaging the cam at the same time.
Stop 🛑 using the lifter tray and go to a lifter with lifter bars they don’t fail and this solves the problem
If you doing a cheap build and replace the lifter trays with OEM GM lifter trays every time you do a cam swap or lifter change.
All this stuff in this video about lifter cam break in. You must use real assembly lube when installing a cam and you will not have a issue on break in.
Thank you for your insight. We did replace our trays on the rebuild as per people's recommendation. Will the lift bars require different valve covers?
However I think on a regular truck that isn't revved high all the time (compared to a Corvette) will easily get long life with proper maintenance. Check out this all original truck in the shop with 866,000km ruclips.net/video/30NRW3dhkck/видео.html
I did notice with Castrol 5W40 Synthetic the engine was significantly more quiet.
AnthonyJ350
The lifter bars just join two lifters together in pairs to they can not turn in the lifter bore.
This problem with the lifter trays is a bad design and cheap use of plastic in the engine.
Has nothing to do with high Erving engine’s two of the three motor we got in the shop this week are truck engines 5.3’s so don’t think because the engine isn’t going to rev to 7000+ it’s not a problem.
Google search LS lifter bars and you will find them and no you don’t have to change valve covers. You’ll see what I mean
AnthonyJ350
I doesn’t matter what oil you put in the engine if the lifter turns even a little in the lifter bore the cam is spinning one way and now grinding on the roller tip of the lifter that’s turned in the opposite direction
Wish I had a way to send you a pic when you see it you realize right way what I’m saying and we have seen it on lots of LS engines
@@mikeeagle2653 I understand it's better. I'm just surprised that when I spec'd out my valvetrain with Comp Cams, they didn't push for that solution. I know a lot of people with over 300,000km on these engines and they haven't had issues. I'm personally on my 12th year of ownership with my truck.
How many people really brake there brand new cars engine in from the dealership....bought my denali brand new regular oil changes over 200,000 miles still running strong....a little over kill
It's funny how trying harder offends people. I never see a problem with overkilling things (typically). But that's just my preference how I operate.
@@AnthonyJ350 definitely not offended just laughing..... Good luck in the future
My btr ls7 lifters are noisy as hell
How long have they been in the engine?
What oil do you run?
Same here .. BTR 5.3 LS 7 lifters . Type writer under the hood but runs dam good
Dude for real that sounds like shit. I did LS7 lifters and a BTR cam a couple months ago on my 5.3. Soaked the lifters for 12 hours before installation. Put it all together with new trays and pushrods and it was only noisy for the first minute and has never since made any lifter noise even 5,000 miles later. And I only use cheap Mobil super synthetic 5w-30. The lifter noise on these engines is from the lifters turning in the trays, not the type of oil. That’s why you always use oem lifter trays.
We did use OEM lifters from the dealership and LS7 lifters and soaked them. Everything else is Comp Cams with a Melling Oil Pump. It sounds very smooth now. I sited from an engine building magazine. Take it or leave it, up to you.
What exhaust manifold or header are you running? Also curious to what your cam profile is and what rockers you're using. The truck sound good hear, you can't hear the lifters with the hood open.
ruclips.net/video/f8VwSQOwG5U/видео.html
Update of how much truck sounds ruclips.net/video/IgoLVNby9dg/видео.html
There is also no need to change oil after a valvetrain upgrade after 150 miles! That is LITERALLY flushing money down the toilet. Modern oils are designed with dispersants that hold debris IN the oil and are designed to hold quite a bit of it!
Did you see all the metal filings being pulled out in the video? What's one extra oil change after spending all the money upgrading your engine?
This article explains in a 2 year study that breaking in hydraulic lifters will see benefit www.engineprofessional.com/articles/EPQ317_62-66.pdf
There is so much bad information in this video. RUclips can be a great resource, the problem comes from anybody being able to make a video on things they clearly don't know anything about.
Roller lifters DO NOT NEED A BREAK IN PERIOD! You aren't breaking in the needles that support the rollers! Flat tappet need a break in because the cam actually is shaped to "rotate" the flat tappet lifter--if it doesn't rotate early on during break-in you WILL flatten the lobes! Rollers need no such break in.
High zinc/high phosphorous oils are designed as extreme pressure additives FOR flat tappet cams, NOT for roller cams!
You say GM says to use some ATF to quiet lifters because "ATF is a hydraulic fluid, and the lifters are hydraulic" 🤦🏻♂️Oh boy!! The reason ATF is commonly used to loosen and free stuck lifters is that ATF has a strong "cleaning/flushing" action. Alot of people clean bores with ATF before final engine assembly BECAUSE it cleans so well. Oil and ATF are BOTH incompressible fluids and will operate hydraulic lifters the same way.
I dislike mis information touted under the guise of "expert advice"
A little knowledge is a DANGEROUS thing.
Thanks for the feedback!
You did see me cite a bunch of info right?
Read this article www.engineprofessional.com/articles/EPQ317_62-66.pdf
AnthonyJ350 Again, WHERE in that article does it give actual data that zddp helps/hurts ROLLER lifters? Lake Speed Jr does NOT grind cams, does not sell lifters! You can quote incorrect articles all day long, is doesn't make them any more accurate. The reality is zddp is primarily for SLIDING metal on metal surfaces--ie a flat tappet lifter. Roller lifters do benefit from a good oil but throwing alot of zinc additives does NOT make a good oil! Roller lifters do not break in in the same way a flat tappet lifter MUST make nice with the cam or else the lifter will be destroyed in short order. As far as LS motors go, the primary reasons LS7 lifters shit the bed is the poor design of the GM plastic lifter trays. Even after 2000-3000 miles, the lifter trays can allow the lifters to "rotate" slightly--often times just enough to have the lifter wheel skid across the cam lobe instead of rolling over it. If this happens enough times, the wheel gets chipped and its only a matter of time before the lifter comes apart. It is a PISS POOR design. Add to the fact that the lifters are a pain in the rear to get to (cylinder heads have to come off) it is no wonder there are TONS of lifter issues and destroyed LS cams--especially when the dur abd lift starts to get high enough to require 400 lb over the nose springs. Your information is not correct. Talk to people that actually grind cams.
@@jaylestingi5418 Never said they break in the same. But you're talking about million of lifters and engines in service. What about all the countless high mileage LS based engine out there still working? I have a documented 5.3L that my buddy drives with over 800,000KM.
Why are you so offended if I say to change the oil prematurely? It's fresh metal parts at the engine of the day, what's the harm? You did notice the excess amount of metal filings when I changed the oil? If you did 2 to 3 extra oil changes, you really think you're going to break the bank? Is it harming the engine?
Sound like a duramax
Listen to is here ruclips.net/video/IgoLVNby9dg/видео.html
If you have little tiny explosions in your engine that's called detonation... it burns under normal circumstances.
That's called pre-ignition. What do you think happens when the spark plug ignites the air and fuel mixture? It would just be ignition at that point.
I heard the ls7 lifters are junk but everyone thinks they're good
There's millions and millions of them in trucks and cars so you're bound to have bad ones. And what was the maintenance like? And ask yourself, how many people with link bar lifters hit a million kilometers?
Throw in a quart of Lucas after the engine is broken in… especially on high mileage engines… problem solved!
AC Delco oil supplement has been serving us well.
your talking to damn much to hear the lifters let us hear them for a bit without you
You complain a lot in life in general, don't you?