The reason you have locking tuners is to reduce string tension differences either side of the nut, which reduces the chance of your guitar going out of tune when you use the tremolo. By starting with the string slack and then winding the string around the tuner head, you completely undo the benefit of having locking tuners. The string should be pulled straight through the tuner string hole, then locked, then wound to correct tuning.
That was my understanding. when I got my first PRS the video at that time showed pointing the hole of the tuner at the nut slot. pull string thru the hole with just very mild tension then tighten set screw and tune it up. String around the post is an area for string to slip. Probably be fine either way but I wonder the logic in the change.
Yes! With my Sperzel's, I pull the string through all the way, lock it and tune it up. No problems ever. I'm assuming these are the same. How do these work when using the PRS trem? Any better tuning stability? Thinking about getting these for my SE.
Finally a locking tuner video that shows to put some slack in the string. I change tunings and with the classic method I've got no slack to allow for the lower tunings. Thanks!
What gets me is that the posts on locking tuners are shorter than the posts on traditional tuners. That's because the shorter posts are not meant to accommodate multiple wraps, whereas traditional tuners have longer posts to make room for string wraps. I think this method completely defeats the purpose of locking tuners. At the very most, a quarter of a wrap is enough for locking tuners. If you're detuning that often, I'd sooner set the guitar up in that particular tuning. Constantly tuning and detuning strings will only weaken them over time.
This makes sense. Thx! A major purpose of the locking tuners is that they are quick and easy - so no big turns. So on my PRS SE it doesn't seem to make a big difference
Thanks for this updated method. I did the old method of leaving as little slack as possible like it said on the site, and was wondering why the strings had trouble keeping tune. I'm going to have to buy some new strings and try this out.
@@jayblow77 that point does make sense on why it may work better. Its also kind of scary with the top screw holding it in place because of the fear of breaking the string by tightening too much. This new method might work best for me because I like to down tune.
Changing the strings on my new CE 24. The ball end of most of the strings are stuck in the trem block. I cut a short length of the used low E string and pushed them through from the top of the saddle.
Interesting. I just bought my first core and it was delivered with the wind over TOP of the string holes. In the past (without locking tuners) I usually did the first wrap over top of the string hole, and then one or two wraps below the hole.
Yes..I usually pull them through with pliers then whilst stretched use 20p piece to tighten & lock tuners. No slack to take up & keeps its tune till the strings are (almost) knackered.
The proper dang way that's how locking turners work there zero access stretching of extra string wrapped around the tuning peg stretching over time too You dont want extra slack around the tuning peg! Cause it's more stretching in the future and worse tuning stability
because thats how you are suppose to string a locking tuner the way you are describing it is correct, you want as little wrap around your tuning peg as you can. unsure why they show you the wrong way here but ok
I have watched 6 videos on restringing PRS guitars and you're the only person that mentions card stock under the tremelo so it doesn't damage the top. THANK YOU! Why don't people know this??? So much bad advice on RUclips.
Glad to see someone making the wind go over the string. It is the ONLY way to string a guitar. I've been doing it forever and have taught many guitarists the "rabbit through the hole" or whatever. With the extra fulcrum point, you're much less likely to break strings.
It is. The PRS site info had not been updated in quite a while and the factory has been using this method for a few years now. The site is updated now as well.
3 года назад+4
yeah interesting - I think I once read that as little slack/turnings as possible would reduce the "slip" you could get at the ... gonna have to try this (although - the "old" method kept my CE perfectly in tune so far)
@@francischang While I don't have a PRS guitar, I do have locking tuners and I've been using zero slack when restringing. I pull each string as tightly as I can through each tuner and then lock them in place. The posts on my locking tuners are shorter in comparison to the PRS locking tuners, though, so maybe that's why they use a little bit of slack.
I’m gonna try this method as normally I just put it through the hole tighten and tune with no slack BUT my low three strings keep popping out at the bridge or breaking like literally every week and my only possibly guess would be that it has to do with having no slack. I don’t play the guitar hard at all so I’m lost. I never used to break strings ever.
I've allway's pulled thru with no slack and hole pointing towards nut slot n never had a string break except for high E after multiple loosening and tightening to work on it.
Seriously, thank you for putting this video out. I bought my S2 about a year ago and have been so scared to change the strings because of the locking tuners!
@@nckhed Perhaps, but isn't just about everything easy once you know how??. Plus, I'm sure dropping a boatload of cash and having this guitar that looks like it could have been a piece of furniture in a museum might have something to do with a cats trepidation.
Hola desconocid@ guitarrista de internet, por si hablas español, ahí te va un consejo que muchos están repitiendo acá en los coments... Y tienen razón, es muy raro que un tech oficial de prs haga esto con locking tuners, dejarle tanta longitud y hacer mas vueltas a la cuerda reduce los beneficios para los que fueron creados los locking y da espacio a que exista riesgo de desafinación usando un puente flotante como este de prs, es mucho mejor simplemente quitarle el tornillo que hace de candado, pasar las cuerdas a través de el hueco de su respectiva clavija y tensarla lo más posible dejándola derechita en el espacio entre la cejilla y la clavija, y cuando ya no puedas tensarla más la bloqueas con el tornillo de esta, luego cortas el exceso,así tendrás la cuerda tensa en el mínimo recorrido de los tuners sin necesidad de darle ninguna vuelta completa, no te preocupes, ese exceso de la cuerda no sirve para nada, en ningún caso vas a reutilizarla "por si se revienta" las cuerdas (a menos que les des con una navaja en lugar de una plumilla) no se rompen a menos que ya estén en mal estado). Hacer esto disminuye drásticamente las posibilidades de que la cuerda se trabe al darle caña al tremolo (si tienes una cejilla/nut de grafito o si tu prs es un modelo gringo, básicamente las posibilidades de desafinación son 0) y hace que se quede sin hacer fricción con la cejilla o con las propias vueltas de la cuerda. Ojo! Lo que está haciendo el chico no está mal, funciona, pero es un desperdicio de los locking tuners, ese método de dejarle sobrante y utilizarlo para hacerle un "nudo" a la cuerda contra el poste del afinador es mucho más útil en guitarras que no tienen locking.
A mí me ha funcionado al revés. Al inicio usé los locking de PRS sin el método que presenta el video y con cada bend mis cuerdas se desafinaban. Fue prácticamente imposible mantener la afinación estable. Tuve que cambiar las cuerdas y usar el método de este video. Funcionó de maravilla, las cuerdas mantienen la afinación sin problema. Me parece que dar un par de vueltas al tuner en las primeras 3 cuerdas mantiene la tensión bastante más estable que simplemente cortar el sobrante de la cuerda.
All the comments are about the string slack, but the thing that gets me is this: all you need to do to block the PRS trem is stick a small piece of cardboard under it? That seems like it wouldn't be enough. Is is enough?
I used the same size strings to resting my CE24 and now the action is a bit higher than it was before. I don't have a clue what could cause this. Any ideas or suggestions?? Thank you!!
Will the PRS locking tuners work on an SE 277 baritone guitar, with 0.14 to 0.68 strings? I've heard that the thicker strings will not fit through the tuners. Such a popular guitar and hardly any information about this. Thanks
I have yet to see a PRS with locking tuners. Probably custom shop only or on 5k€$ models, because adding 80€$ locking tuners and/or stainless steel frets can raise the price by 3000. Messed up industry
The point of a locking tuner is to no a little string on the peg as poseble... When you threat the string through the tuner posts, you wonna the string, to where theres no slag, and then you lock the screw. When your tuning up, if you get more than one wrap around the post, you'v done it wrong. Again, the point is to have as little string on your tuners as poseble. A locking tuner is not only for making string change earsier but also to help keeping the guitar better in tune. The less amount of wraps you have around the post, the less likely the guitar is to go out of tune. Hope this makes sence. Feel free to comment. Martin DK
The tuners lock the string but they do not lock the tuning peg. If you do it how most do it, like you have said, the tension can rotate the tuning peg and cause the string to go flat. A wind and a half helps keep that from happening. As long as you have stretched the strings out you should have great tuning stability.
Hello! I just got the PRS SE Tremonti standard, and put some new locking tuners on it as well as put a set of .10-.52 on it. Now, I adjusted the claw in the back to compensate for the thicker strings and the bridge now is flush with the body. But whenever I use the trem, it seems that the D and the G strings are the only ones that don’t stay in tune. Any tips?
Try opening the fret slots on middle strings a bit without increasing depth e.g. with a bit of 1200 wet/dry folded so the abrasive doesn't touch the bottom Use lube!
I have the old wing based locking tuners on my 08 Prs... ridiculous things and after years of ownership would still not like to have to change a string during a gig with these. Pity because the guitar is spectacular but really let down by these...
@Gonzo26ish On a floating tremolo the springs pull on opposite direction of the strings. When you remove the strings, you remove the force in one direction - meaning the tremolo springs have no force to balance it out and it bottoms out the tremolo.... into the body of your super expensive guitar. I did this with my old SE and learned pretty quickly that you either change the strings 1 at a time or place a chunk-o-plastic or cardboard or forever have a reminder of when you forgot to do it.
Got my first set of locking tuners in the form of Sperzel's in 1987. This is NOT the way to install the strings in a locking tuner. There should be no slack once you have the string locked in place. This isn't changing my mind. I appreciate the effort but I will stick with my way as it has serviced me more than well in all this time. Love the guitars though.
That leaves no room for cleaning the fretboard and frets, though. That's also what a truss rod is for. I take off all the strings at once and haven't had any issues. Only time I've had to make any truss rod adjustments is because I left the strings off for a couple of days due to a roadblock while changing pickups and whatnot.
I recommend taking them all off and cleaning the fretboard and frets if it’s been more than three months of playing. No harm will come to the guitar for removing all the strings at once.
@@heffy301 Jeff, thank you. I’m sorry I wasn’t clear, though. What I meant was-at least for PRS guitars or other 3-a-side headstocks, is there an ideal sequence to put on the new strings after you’ve taken all of them off in one sitting? For example, is it 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1? 6, 1, 5, 2, 4, 3? Something else? Just thinking about any impact on the neck due to even short-term lopsided tension.
Think about how much tension a guitar neck is under when it’s fully loaded with a tuned set of strings. Removing one string, or even all six strings, is not going to cause any change to the architecture of the instrument. The order you remove them doesn’t matter at all. No one string has enough tension to cause the neck to twist or move in any way. If it did, every time you broke a string you’d have to readjust your guitar. I always remove all the strings and clean the neck and frets. I figure if my strings are old enough to break, they’re probably on a dirty fingerboard.
No tiene sentido darle vueltas a la cuerda con un sistema de bloqueo. El sistema de bloqueo se hizo para que la cuerda tenga el menor número de vueltas
Sorry but this completely defeats the purpose of having locking tuners. If you're going to give it a turn an a half needing a string winder you could do just the same without locking tuners. I'll keep using the old PRS recommended method with my locking tuners.
It ain‘t much about the purpose of the locking tuner but the advantage of the longer string, in case it slips truh because of an broken screw or in case u need to do some work on the fretboard. This way, it is much easier to reuse the old string or loose n the tension of string so that u can slip it aside, which won‘t be possible if u pull the string thru and cut it right away ...
@@papatythen thousands of players would tell you that if you tighten it to the right force the case of a string slipping is really strange. If you have to do some work on the fretboard, just don't be cheap, remove the strings, and when finished use a fresh set of strings.
@@RichiAtlanticWind never said anything about tighten it to the right with force ;) and which thousends of players are you refering to? because I can only speak for myself and my experiance as an guitar shop tec ... there are many strange things you will see while working in a guitar shop, trust me ... and it also has nothing to do with beeing cheap because there are often cases, were you just don‘t need to change strings but need to do some work ... why waste string which are perfectly fine?
@@papatythen Hi, could you have more winds to get a better string break to the headstock angle and more secure tension at headstock? I have a USA Tremonti and looking at different stringing ideas for better tuning stability. Cheers
@@eltonhalford325 Hey, so first of, more winds do not guarantee a better tuning stability at all, they change the string break angle at the nut which might work in your case, but the tuners won‘t allow a lot more windings than 1 or maybe 1 1/2 windings, before starting to overlap because of the small space these tuners offer … then there is the possibility that the slots of the nut are rough and not clean enough, so the strings won’t slide back properly after playing with the tremolo arm and cause the tuning instability … some kind of nut sauce might help the problem for now … but nothings better than a clean cut nut slots. And then u need to consider that the strings need to be stretched after restring so they will stay in tune … if u already do this, try the above and in worst case, let a good luthier take a look at the nut and consider changing it.
The reason you have locking tuners is to reduce string tension differences either side of the nut, which reduces the chance of your guitar going out of tune when you use the tremolo. By starting with the string slack and then winding the string around the tuner head, you completely undo the benefit of having locking tuners. The string should be pulled straight through the tuner string hole, then locked, then wound to correct tuning.
That was my understanding. when I got my first PRS the video at that time showed pointing the hole of the tuner at the nut slot. pull string thru the hole with just very mild tension then tighten set screw and tune it up. String around the post is an area for string to slip. Probably be fine either way but I wonder the logic in the change.
Thanks! That's what I thought but seeing this video confused me for a moment.
Yes! With my Sperzel's, I pull the string through all the way, lock it and tune it up. No problems ever. I'm assuming these are the same. How do these work when using the PRS trem? Any better tuning stability? Thinking about getting these for my SE.
If you ever see Paul on the road with a personal guitar, these are the letters you will need: W T & F
Yes. This video is total nonsense, especially winding over the string. Why?! It's locked. Pretty silly.
Finally a locking tuner video that shows to put some slack in the string. I change tunings and with the classic method I've got no slack to allow for the lower tunings. Thanks!
What gets me is that the posts on locking tuners are shorter than the posts on traditional tuners. That's because the shorter posts are not meant to accommodate multiple wraps, whereas traditional tuners have longer posts to make room for string wraps. I think this method completely defeats the purpose of locking tuners. At the very most, a quarter of a wrap is enough for locking tuners. If you're detuning that often, I'd sooner set the guitar up in that particular tuning. Constantly tuning and detuning strings will only weaken them over time.
This makes sense. Thx! A major purpose of the locking tuners is that they are quick and easy - so no big turns. So on my PRS SE it doesn't seem to make a big difference
I always leave one or two strings attached and change them last. It allows you to clean the guitar and keeps the trem from flopping around.
@yeti goosecreature It also keeps tension on the neck which makes re tuning easier as neck doesn't have to re settle.
I appreciated this very straight forward video. First change of PRS strings in the books :)
Thanks for this updated method. I did the old method of leaving as little slack as possible like it said on the site, and was wondering why the strings had trouble keeping tune. I'm going to have to buy some new strings and try this out.
I've wondered if maybe one winding around the post would take some tension off the gear and help stability.
@@jayblow77 that point does make sense on why it may work better. Its also kind of scary with the top screw holding it in place because of the fear of breaking the string by tightening too much. This new method might work best for me because I like to down tune.
😎👍💗🇺🇸🎸 LONG LIVE PRS!!!
Relic free since 1985!
Great video, I like PRS strings a lot.
Changing the strings on my new CE 24. The ball end of most of the strings are stuck in the trem block. I cut a short length of the used low E string and pushed them through from the top of the saddle.
Interesting. I just bought my first core and it was delivered with the wind over TOP of the string holes. In the past (without locking tuners) I usually did the first wrap over top of the string hole, and then one or two wraps below the hole.
I dunno. I've been doing the "yank it as hard as you can and then lock" method on my C22 for 19 years. Thing stays in tune just fine.
Yes..I usually pull them through with pliers then whilst stretched use 20p piece to tighten & lock tuners. No slack to take up & keeps its tune till the strings are (almost) knackered.
My dad used that method too, he used to say kink the string up then do a wrap around and wind up
The proper dang way that's how locking turners work there zero access stretching of extra string wrapped around the tuning peg stretching over time too
You dont want extra slack around the tuning peg! Cause it's more stretching in the future and worse tuning stability
because thats how you are suppose to string a locking tuner the way you are describing it is correct, you want as little wrap around your tuning peg as you can. unsure why they show you the wrong way here but ok
Sure, argue with the manufacturer about how to use the product....
It’s just easier to replace one string at a time then you don’t need to use the card behind the trem. Cleaning is easy either way
I have watched 6 videos on restringing PRS guitars and you're the only person that mentions card stock under the tremelo so it doesn't damage the top. THANK YOU! Why don't people know this??? So much bad advice on RUclips.
excellent. informative and concise.
Glad to see someone making the wind go over the string. It is the ONLY way to string a guitar. I've been doing it forever and have taught many guitarists the "rabbit through the hole" or whatever. With the extra fulcrum point, you're much less likely to break strings.
PRS site says to pull the string and keep as little slack as possible. Is this a better method?
It is. The PRS site info had not been updated in quite a while and the factory has been using this method for a few years now. The site is updated now as well.
yeah interesting - I think I once read that as little slack/turnings as possible would reduce the "slip" you could get at the ... gonna have to try this (although - the "old" method kept my CE perfectly in tune so far)
@@z3guitars Why is it better to have 2 fingers worth of slack? I've always used the minimal slack method on my PRS.
@@francischang I am also interested in why this is better?
@@francischang While I don't have a PRS guitar, I do have locking tuners and I've been using zero slack when restringing. I pull each string as tightly as I can through each tuner and then lock them in place. The posts on my locking tuners are shorter in comparison to the PRS locking tuners, though, so maybe that's why they use a little bit of slack.
I was just looking this topic up yesterday to restring my CE, I ended up doing the same as I do on my S2. Perfect timing though.
Can we use Phase 3 locking tuners on a PRS SE custom 24 ?
Does any PRS tuners fits any PRS’s (SE, Core, CE’s…) ?
Yes i want to know this as well. Anybody?
I’m gonna try this method as normally I just put it through the hole tighten and tune with no slack BUT my low three strings keep popping out at the bridge or breaking like literally every week and my only possibly guess would be that it has to do with having no slack. I don’t play the guitar hard at all so I’m lost. I never used to break strings ever.
Just curious how your results are with this method. Did your strings stop breaking? And how’s your tuning stability?
I've allway's pulled thru with no slack and hole pointing towards nut slot n never had a string break except for high E after multiple loosening and tightening to work on it.
if the break happens near the bridge, there maybe something wrong with your saddles. Try checking for burrs or sharp edges.
I love reading guitar-stringing video comments!.
Seriously, thank you for putting this video out. I bought my S2 about a year ago and have been so scared to change the strings because of the locking tuners!
Locking tuners are so easy to use, though.
@@nckhed Perhaps, but isn't just about everything easy once you know how??. Plus, I'm sure dropping a boatload of cash and having this guitar that looks like it could have been a piece of furniture in a museum might have something to do with a cats trepidation.
Why are you leaving some slack to the string, even you are using locking?
Can be handy when you need to do some work on the fretboard.
@@worldwide_will ok, but it doesn't give more tuning stability.
I was thinking the same thing. I might as well just save my money and use my stock ones if I wanted to do that
Hola desconocid@ guitarrista de internet, por si hablas español, ahí te va un consejo que muchos están repitiendo acá en los coments... Y tienen razón, es muy raro que un tech oficial de prs haga esto con locking tuners, dejarle tanta longitud y hacer mas vueltas a la cuerda reduce los beneficios para los que fueron creados los locking y da espacio a que exista riesgo de desafinación usando un puente flotante como este de prs, es mucho mejor simplemente quitarle el tornillo que hace de candado, pasar las cuerdas a través de el hueco de su respectiva clavija y tensarla lo más posible dejándola derechita en el espacio entre la cejilla y la clavija, y cuando ya no puedas tensarla más la bloqueas con el tornillo de esta, luego cortas el exceso,así tendrás la cuerda tensa en el mínimo recorrido de los tuners sin necesidad de darle ninguna vuelta completa, no te preocupes, ese exceso de la cuerda no sirve para nada, en ningún caso vas a reutilizarla "por si se revienta" las cuerdas (a menos que les des con una navaja en lugar de una plumilla) no se rompen a menos que ya estén en mal estado). Hacer esto disminuye drásticamente las posibilidades de que la cuerda se trabe al darle caña al tremolo (si tienes una cejilla/nut de grafito o si tu prs es un modelo gringo, básicamente las posibilidades de desafinación son 0) y hace que se quede sin hacer fricción con la cejilla o con las propias vueltas de la cuerda.
Ojo!
Lo que está haciendo el chico no está mal, funciona, pero es un desperdicio de los locking tuners, ese método de dejarle sobrante y utilizarlo para hacerle un "nudo" a la cuerda contra el poste del afinador es mucho más útil en guitarras que no tienen locking.
A mí me ha funcionado al revés. Al inicio usé los locking de PRS sin el método que presenta el video y con cada bend mis cuerdas se desafinaban. Fue prácticamente imposible mantener la afinación estable. Tuve que cambiar las cuerdas y usar el método de este video. Funcionó de maravilla, las cuerdas mantienen la afinación sin problema.
Me parece que dar un par de vueltas al tuner en las primeras 3 cuerdas mantiene la tensión bastante más estable que simplemente cortar el sobrante de la cuerda.
Do those wire cutters have a rubber or plastic guard on the side? Would be really nice if so so you dont scratch your headstock up lol
Interesting, most people say to not use any slack at all....
Apparently the little bit of extra string provides a better bite and seat.
Thanks James, for making this simple & understandable:)
That Thumbnail looked like one of a Video by Music is Win :)
All the comments are about the string slack, but the thing that gets me is this: all you need to do to block the PRS trem is stick a small piece of cardboard under it? That seems like it wouldn't be enough. Is is enough?
Can you recommend me some self-locking mechanics for my Prs SE Santana.
The PRS Phase III Ebony Tuner Buttons
its compatible whit " PRS SE Locking Tuners"?????
Yes
@@serranodavid3247 you have more information
I used the same size strings to resting my CE24 and now the action is a bit higher than it was before. I don't have a clue what could cause this. Any ideas or suggestions?? Thank you!!
Does your CE24 have a trem? Maybe it raised up a hair. Just grasping at straws, though.
Will the PRS locking tuners work on an SE 277 baritone guitar, with 0.14 to 0.68 strings? I've heard that the thicker strings will not fit through the tuners. Such a popular guitar and hardly any information about this. Thanks
I have a PRS SE Starla, should I follow this method?? Or should I just go straight in??
Will the PRS Locking Tuners for SE work on left handed models. I have heard yes and I have heard no from different sources.
I have yet to see a PRS with locking tuners. Probably custom shop only or on 5k€$ models, because adding 80€$ locking tuners and/or stainless steel frets can raise the price by 3000. Messed up industry
What about phase 1 locking tuners? I heard many people say that phase 1 are the best.
ruclips.net/video/r6v66-jU4PU/видео.html
The point of a locking tuner is to no a little string on the peg as poseble...
When you threat the string through the tuner posts, you wonna the string, to where theres no slag, and then you lock the screw.
When your tuning up, if you get more than one wrap around the post, you'v done it wrong.
Again, the point is to have as little string on your tuners as poseble.
A locking tuner is not only for making string change earsier but also to help keeping the guitar better in tune.
The less amount of wraps you have around the post, the less likely the guitar is to go out of tune.
Hope this makes sence.
Feel free to comment.
Martin
DK
The tuners lock the string but they do not lock the tuning peg. If you do it how most do it, like you have said, the tension can rotate the tuning peg and cause the string to go flat. A wind and a half helps keep that from happening. As long as you have stretched the strings out you should have great tuning stability.
@@Jmdeclue Hi... So as you were saying better tuning stability with some slack like the video above? Thanks
Hello! I just got the PRS SE Tremonti standard, and put some new locking tuners on it as well as put a set of .10-.52 on it. Now, I adjusted the claw in the back to compensate for the thicker strings and the bridge now is flush with the body. But whenever I use the trem, it seems that the D and the G strings are the only ones that don’t stay in tune. Any tips?
Pinching in the nut. Get the nut cut properly for your gauge of strings. Also, work in a bit of Big Bends Nut Sauce.
@@revsharp777 aha! I had thought about that too but wasn’t sure. Thank you!!
@@bryancontreras2892 yeah. The SE line ships with 9 gauge strings, so you'll mostly likely need the slots filed for your gauges.
Try opening the fret slots on middle strings a bit without increasing depth e.g. with a bit of 1200 wet/dry folded so the abrasive doesn't touch the bottom
Use lube!
I have the old wing based locking tuners on my 08 Prs... ridiculous things and after years of ownership would still not like to have to change a string during a gig with these. Pity because the guitar is spectacular but really let down by these...
Those totally suck. I’ve finally replaced my guitars with those with the locking. I would cringe at a string change.
Useful video guys! What maple top color is it, fire red burst, orange tiger or other? It’s a 10 top? Thanks
Fire burst red, I got a 22 special in it, 10 top too. It's more of a reddish brown which is good as I don't care for red guitars except for my 335.
I which you would color code it it would be really nice please or just put 123 together and 456 together
I don't know how true this is, but I've read that PRS strings are just rebranded D'addario strings.
@@nckhed Yes, it seems they're made by D'addario. Makes sense since a lot of PRS guitars came factory strung with D'addarios
Why did he put the paper cardboard under the bridge
@Gonzo26ish On a floating tremolo the springs pull on opposite direction of the strings. When you remove the strings, you remove the force in one direction - meaning the tremolo springs have no force to balance it out and it bottoms out the tremolo.... into the body of your super expensive guitar.
I did this with my old SE and learned pretty quickly that you either change the strings 1 at a time or place a chunk-o-plastic or cardboard or forever have a reminder of when you forgot to do it.
I always spam Skitchy with questions on the facebook group.
why dosent my string come out like the video its almost like its stuck, its my first time changing strings on my prs
same problem!
Got my first set of locking tuners in the form of Sperzel's in 1987. This is NOT the way to install the strings in a locking tuner. There should be no slack once you have the string locked in place. This isn't changing my mind. I appreciate the effort but I will stick with my way as it has serviced me more than well in all this time. Love the guitars though.
I swap strings one at a time. Minimal additional work and less stress on the guitar.
That leaves no room for cleaning the fretboard and frets, though. That's also what a truss rod is for. I take off all the strings at once and haven't had any issues. Only time I've had to make any truss rod adjustments is because I left the strings off for a couple of days due to a roadblock while changing pickups and whatnot.
we need a @richardshaw of (cradle of filth) custom model please make that happen
Witerally
Is there an ideal sequence to replace all six strings at once?
I recommend taking them all off and cleaning the fretboard and frets if it’s been more than three months of playing. No harm will come to the guitar for removing all the strings at once.
@@heffy301 Jeff, thank you. I’m sorry I wasn’t clear, though. What I meant was-at least for PRS guitars or other 3-a-side headstocks, is there an ideal sequence to put on the new strings after you’ve taken all of them off in one sitting?
For example, is it 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1? 6, 1, 5, 2, 4, 3? Something else? Just thinking about any impact on the neck due to even short-term lopsided tension.
Think about how much tension a guitar neck is under when it’s fully loaded with a tuned set of strings. Removing one string, or even all six strings, is not going to cause any change to the architecture of the instrument. The order you remove them doesn’t matter at all. No one string has enough tension to cause the neck to twist or move in any way. If it did, every time you broke a string you’d have to readjust your guitar. I always remove all the strings and clean the neck and frets. I figure if my strings are old enough to break, they’re probably on a dirty fingerboard.
No tiene sentido darle vueltas a la cuerda con un sistema de bloqueo. El sistema de bloqueo se hizo para que la cuerda tenga el menor número de vueltas
A guitar tech that don't have a clue... you don't allow that many wines with locking tuners.. What's the point in them if you're going to do that...
Sorry but this completely defeats the purpose of having locking tuners. If you're going to give it a turn an a half needing a string winder you could do just the same without locking tuners. I'll keep using the old PRS recommended method with my locking tuners.
It ain‘t much about the purpose of the locking tuner but the advantage of the longer string, in case it slips truh because of an broken screw or in case u need to do some work on the fretboard. This way, it is much easier to reuse the old string or loose n the tension of string so that u can slip it aside, which won‘t be possible if u pull the string thru and cut it right away ...
@@papatythen thousands of players would tell you that if you tighten it to the right force the case of a string slipping is really strange. If you have to do some work on the fretboard, just don't be cheap, remove the strings, and when finished use a fresh set of strings.
@@RichiAtlanticWind never said anything about tighten it to the right with force ;) and which thousends of players are you refering to? because I can only speak for myself and my experiance as an guitar shop tec ... there are many strange things you will see while working in a guitar shop, trust me ... and it also has nothing to do with beeing cheap because there are often cases, were you just don‘t need to change strings but need to do some work ... why waste string which are perfectly fine?
@@papatythen Hi, could you have more winds to get a better string break to the headstock angle and more secure tension at headstock? I have a USA Tremonti and looking at different stringing ideas for better tuning stability. Cheers
@@eltonhalford325 Hey, so first of, more winds do not guarantee a better tuning stability at all, they change the string break angle at the nut which might work in your case, but the tuners won‘t allow a lot more windings than 1 or maybe 1 1/2 windings, before starting to overlap because of the small space these tuners offer … then there is the possibility that the slots of the nut are rough and not clean enough, so the strings won’t slide back properly after playing with the tremolo arm and cause the tuning instability … some kind of nut sauce might help the problem for now … but nothings better than a clean cut nut slots. And then u need to consider that the strings need to be stretched after restring so they will stay in tune … if u already do this, try the above and in worst case, let a good luthier take a look at the nut and consider changing it.
I dont think I would ever trust something holdding my strings by pinching on them lol sounds like break city to me.
this is not right guys. don't do it like this