well.... after going over this in my head 100 times.... I realized that when I took the lugs off by the lug wrench... then first attempted to take the 12 mm bolt off the ball joint plate using the ratchet and additional pry bar.... I was like Joe Joe the idiot circus boy with trying to get the bolt off.... all the while..if I was paying attention..... I would have realized I was tightening the darn bolt and thats why it sheered off..... ya learn something everyday even at 53.... well... the shop has the bushings and ball joints now so hopefully they get my ride to me this afternoon so I can enjoy it again... Lesson learned... take your time just like the gentleman in these vids... you will probably be fine... at least now I realize what I did and on to the next job...putting the new brake rotors on...
Thank you for making these videos! I watched the supercharger pulley video and it helped me succesfully do mine today along with a new tensioner on my R53! Thank you!!!!!!
do you have a video on replacing inner ball joints? I'm about to replace the inner,outer, and control arm bushing and your videos on it have taught me a lot.
Outer lower ball joint video really helpfull! I have to return to it & try to remove the old ball joint from the back of the hub, as it would'nt come out. Screwdriver & or heat I would guess?...
Ummmm yeah... tried this project today on my 05 R53 S... and rented the ball joint remover had the car jacked... used the penetrating oil liberally on all the bolts... well ...🙄 while attempting to pry the 2 12 mm bolts that hold the ball joint in...sheered the bolt right off... so off to the local shop that specializes in minis... left the new ball joints with them and waiting for Amazon prime to deliver the powerflex bushings I ordered so I can have them put on also by Monday... I love the way this car drives and handles...they are a pita but they are fun
Just so you know the inner ball joints can be done without lowering the subframe too. You just have to pull the axle out of the hub and lift it up so you can get the one bolt out. I just did it on my 08 R52 this past weekend. To me much less work than lowering the subframe.
I usually love your videos man but this one didn't quite work out so well for me... The top end of this ball joint didn't just fall out like yours did and I'm having a heck of a time getting this out
Grab the tire at the top and bottom and try to wiggle it vertically (meaning opposite simultaneous forces on top and bottom, reversing). If you feel free play, seek and find what's loose, start with lower ball joint.
Sorry, but you'll have to look those up yourself. The only values I know are for head gaskets and that sort of thing. I honestly don't know what the torque values should be for most other fasteners and there are no published torque values for most of them. It's a skill that you need to have. It's fairly obvious when the bolt is tight. There is a period of no resistance after which the resistance starts to increase exponentially. Don't overtighten, and as long as bolt doesn't loosen if you push back counterclockwise with about half the tightening force, you should be fine.
Hi there great video. I'm trying to remove the lower ball joint using the similar extractor tool but the ball joint rubber boot is ripped off and I can't get the tool to hold. Is there another was of getting it off
My drive shaft has popped out of the transmission a couple times already, do you have any idea why it won't stay in? This started happening after I had to replace it because it was failing.
+Mod MINI can you do a video on changing the inner ball joints on an R56, please? The seem to be press fitted on the control arm but replacements are available. I'd love some guidance before I get stuck unable to remove the old ones or not able to install the new ones!
Ok. I got a real bad sound coming from under the car. Everytime I hit a bump or pull foward. It sounds like metal clapping. So I'm replacing the bushing tomorrow. Hopefully that fixes the problem. The axle are brand new from the dealer. And I just replaced the outer ball joints. So hopefully it's the bushings.
Seems like the outers can be done at anytime. I am dropping the subframe to do the control arm bushings/sway bar bushings, 57k on an 05 R53, the ball joints should still be good at this mileage right? Rubber in Colorado not so much.
Ok thank you. I have to replace the outer ball joints. Is it necessary to replace the inner ball joints also? My car is a 2006 cooper s cabrio with 91000 KM. The control arm bushings will be replaced by some purple powerplex bushings. To remove the control arm i had to remove the outer ball joints and will replace them.
No, the inner ball joint is pretty captive and alternate methods must be devised. I haven't found a way to separate the inner ball joint without damaging it other than either dropping the subframe or removing the half shafts and control arms.
what sort of play is observable when the ball joints are bad? are the symptoms much like when the control arm bushings are bad, the wobble of the wheels when kicked?
No. Control arm bushing play is different. For things other than ball joints, raise car off ground and grab wheel, and try to move by hand. It shouldn't move at all in vertical direction and horizontal motion should be steering movement only. If there is any excess motion (around 1mm), you'd then need to track down whether it's hub, tie rod ends or ball joints.
Hi Mod MINI in two weeks im gonna replace both inner and outer ball joints on both sides, control arm bushing and passenger side cv axle. I would like to do the whole job without having to lower the subframe. Any advise? Are the inner ball joints pressed into the control arm? I got the ball joint tool you showed but im not sure if i will be able to use it for the inner. Also I was able to replace the driver side axle, motor mounts both top and the bottom one, crank position sensor o'ring and oil filter housing o'ring thanks to your videos. Thank you so much again.
+Frank Nativi Inner ball joint will be a challenge. Usually they are not in very tight but if it doesn't fall out, you'll have to use a pickle fork or a big hammer. You can remove both axles to enable removing the inner ball joint bolts and then work on the control arms on the workbench.
Just today I was tackling the LCA inner ball joint as i needed to put new poly bush in. I really struggled but found success by putting the outer joint on lightly with a few turns just to act as steady/pivot.. Then using the mini emergency tirechange jack, i put that on the top of the arm near as possible to the inner balljoint to arm area, and then wound up the jack so that it met the vertical subframe area by the large bolt ( you'll see ) Then continued to crank the jack up to get some decent preload on the LCA, then hit the arm rear side with a 4lb lump hammer a few times and the joint popped out from the arm. I can see changing the whole inner balljoint would be an excersize in patience and perseverance though..good luck with that one!
Do you think it's worth while to put a little antiseize between the ball joint and the wheel carrier to prevent the two from getting stuck together or would that cause problems with the fit?
+John Duke It would fit just fine, not sure if it would make any difference with disassembly next time (the parts are hard to come apart not from corrosion but from pressure fit) but worth a try.
Use more heat or a bigger hammer... Sorry but it's true. Usually hitting them from the top with an impact hammer pops them out. Try to replicate that. May take a while.
When doing this, will the ball joints have to be replaced if they pop similarly? One of mine seems to be seized onto the wheel hub and I couldnt seem to get it off. Used this method and it came off the 18mm bolt, but is def shot. Was just wondering if me doing this method killed the ball joint.
I have a steady vibration at 52 mph +. It is from the front. Engine engaged or not. I just put new RF tires on and same vibration. Could the vibration be from the otter ball joints?
my outer ball joints are seized up. I have tried heavy use of PB Blaster, hammering down on the control arm and also used a block of wood on the lower control arm all in an effort to have that ball joint drop. No luck so far. Any tips?
thesqaanalyst Hello - seems you got it figured out - the best way to deal with stuck outer ball joints is use a cold chisel and a big hammer. It might help to grind the tip of the cold chisel to a more narrow wedge. Hammer really hard from the front and the back and it will start to come out.
Hi Mod MINI, when i jack my car up one of the wheels has a horizontal or left and right movement. I am told it's probably the ball joints, but it could also be the bearings. If it´s the ball joints I want to replace it without taking it to the mechanic, but I'm not sure. Do you know what it could be? Thanks alot. I already used one of your videos to replace the power steering pump and it went great.
Hey, I'm doing this job in a week or so. I think my brakes are cooking the joints; both grease boots are pretty much disintegrated. Could you recommend a way to get a heat shield in between the two? I noticed you have one.
Hey, just curious what your experience with different brands of ball joints for the R53 has been. I got my car all disassembled yesterday to replace the ball joints with Mevotech units from Rock Auto. I then realized they sent two left inners, and now have to use one of O'Reilly's Master Pro units on the inner right. Is there a huge quality difference that you've noticed? Or is it pretty much a ball joint's a ball joint's a ball joint?
+Axe Hacks Better brands most likely last longer. The best brands would be something like Febi or Lemforder. Outers are easy to replace so any brand is probably ok but I'd get the best I could find for the inners because they are a lot harder to replace.
Do you have some tips to know if ball joints are worn? My mini feel more bouncy since a month or two. I planned to change the passenger hydrolic engine mount (little leak and no gap on the mount) and lower stabilizer very soon (parts are comming), I also read that it can be cv joint too. I can hear sometimes a little clunk when I turn streering wheel back during a parking manoeuvre
No. Inner ball joint, the best way is to loosen nut, heat up the socket with a torch and hit the socket with a BFH (big F'ing hammer) until it pops loose.
So I've been trying for the last few days now to remove the outer ball joints, but no amount of whacking with a "bfh" has done anything. It's still stuck in the knuckle, any advice? Thanks in advance!
hello again and sorry to bother you, I don't have a ball joint separator. Could I simply loosen the main single nut off, then put it back on to protect the threads and hit it upwards? thanks
Warwick Dean You don't want to hit the threads. You always hit the thing that the ball joint goes through. If you hit the threads, the metal will become briefly larger and will resist separating. So hit the knuckle instead - but you need a big hammer to do so.
In my 06 mini i have noticed a wobble felt while driving the slower you go the worse it is. Is this due to the ball joint wearing out? At highway speeds it is better but you can still feel it in the steering wheel. What are your thoughts.
Jason S I can't confidently diagnose something like this remotely. Possible culprits are (in no particular order): control arm bushings, inner ball joints, outer ball joints, bad tires, shocks, tie rod ends, a bent wheel or wheel bearings. It should be possible to identify the bad part by put the car up in the air and start pulling and prying around and swapping front and rear tires.
theres a pretty loud pop coming from the passanger side of my mini everytime i take off and sometimes turn the corner, it only pops once but it does it throughout the time that im driving, ne advice on wat it could b?
For some crazy reason I just get the lower ball joints to budge! (I've tried the tool, air chisel, cold chisel and the occasional swear word) NOTHING! Any suggestions? I'm thinking about removing the axles, the hubs and sensors and just taking the bracket to someone to get them pressed out... This is a PITA! Thanks for any suggestions. I've got the winter to get her put back together, but this has me stumped!
+Robert Williams Cold chisel with the tip ground a little so that it can fit between the knuckle and the ball joint. Hit hard with a sledge hammer. Work alternately from front and back. Eventually it will come loose. Use some penetrating oil. Heat on the knuckle might help as well but remove anything with rubber first.
My outer balljoint to hub carrier are well rusted in place. I don't think mine have ever been changed yet ( just coming up to 70,000 on a 2003 R50 cooper ) I am chasing down a clunk on turning when setting off from stationary but I'm really having to change them as i managed to split the boot of each outer joint with a balljoint splitter similar to the one in the video but due to it's upper fork thickness it wouldn't go in straight on, i had to tackle splitting from the rear side under the track rod control arm. Pita! Anyhoo, turns out my discs need replacing so had to get those off by drilling out the T50 m10x13 countersunk screw as it just wouldnt shift after days of penetrating fluid, sharp hits with a heavy hammer, a hend held impact driver and finally chewed the face up with a centre punch and hammer in an attempt to shock it undone.... Bad times.
I have a 04 mini cooper s, I changed the inner and outer ball joint, shock and strut. No change to a clucking sound on the passenger side front. Its everytime I get a hole or the road is bumpy. If any one can help it would me awesome.
Replaced my run flats today and while on the alignment rack they told me the rt side tie rods are frozen in place. I probably hit a bump and bent them. The shop couldn't find parts available today so I plan on ordering and replacing myself however I need some advice on removing the inner tie rod. Is it possible to loosen the inner w/o a tool? I saw a video where they used a 1 5/8" removal tool. Would I be able to use a 1 5/8" wrench to loosen/tighten it? I have a 2005 Mini R53. Thanks.
+krushmoto1 I don't remember. I think you need the special tool but there might be clearance for just a regular wrench. It is going to be a really big size, something like 30 or 32mm. I've done it before but with the subframe on the ground. I don't know if there is clearance to do it on the car without a special tool.
+Mod MINI Thank you and keep making videos. If it wasn't for you I would have probably taken my Mini to the shop instead of working on it myself. I'm no longer a twenty something willing to just wing it! LOL Keep up the great work.
+krushmoto1 I removed my inner tie rod with a regular crescent (adjustable) wrench. The one I have is pretty fair sized which is good cause you'll want a lot of leverage to get that thing loose. I got the boot out of the way, and then I just slid it up between the lower control arm and the subframe (I think) Mine was super bent after sliding into a curb so there was no way I could use a tool to get it apart.
Hi, Mod Mini I have a 03 cooper S just put some GP rims and run flat tires, the steering wheel shakes while driving when going over 50 miles I already have two tire shops balance the tires and did an aligment any ideas
If it wasn't there before and the only thing you changed was the wheels and tires, it's the wheels and tires. Put the old ones back on and see if the problem goes away. If it does, it's the wheels and tires. What other explanation is there?
makes such a difference having a lovely garage to do your work in, rather than a driveway in the winter....
Keep making videos man! I and probably many others have found your videos extremely helpful!
Literally the best mini tutorial videos
well.... after going over this in my head 100 times.... I realized that when I took the lugs off by the lug wrench... then first attempted to take the 12 mm bolt off the ball joint plate using the ratchet and
additional pry bar.... I was like Joe Joe the idiot circus boy with trying to get the bolt off.... all the while..if I was paying attention..... I would have realized I was tightening the darn bolt and thats why
it sheered off..... ya learn something everyday even at 53.... well... the shop has the bushings and ball joints now so hopefully they get my ride to me this afternoon so I can enjoy it again... Lesson learned... take your time just like the gentleman in these vids... you will probably be fine... at least now I realize what I did and on to the next job...putting the new brake rotors on...
Very nice and clear step by step video
Thank you for making these videos! I watched the supercharger pulley video and it helped me succesfully do mine today along with a new tensioner on my R53! Thank you!!!!!!
do you have a video on replacing inner ball joints? I'm about to replace the inner,outer, and control arm bushing and your videos on it have taught me a lot.
i like your video very simple to understand and minimal parts to remove
You're so helpful and much appriciated for all you do
Fantastic helpful video brother 👍
tqvm for the knowledge you've share. Awesome
Have you done a video on inner ball joint replacement? Can't seem to find one but like your simple clear instructions!!
Outer lower ball joint video really helpfull! I have to return to it & try to remove the old ball joint from the back of the hub, as it would'nt come out. Screwdriver & or heat I would guess?...
When I changed these on my 2004 Cooper S it took over 2 hours of heat/hammering/ball joint splitter to get the O/S out. N/S popped out easily.
I am giving it a go now helped a lot.
Ummmm yeah... tried this project today on my 05 R53 S... and rented the ball joint remover had the car jacked... used the penetrating oil liberally on all the bolts... well ...🙄 while attempting to pry the 2 12 mm bolts that hold the ball joint in...sheered the bolt right off... so off to the local shop that specializes in minis... left the new ball joints with them and waiting for Amazon prime to deliver the powerflex bushings I ordered so I can have them put on also by Monday... I love the way this car drives and handles...they are a pita but they are fun
Just so you know the inner ball joints can be done without lowering the subframe too. You just have to pull the axle out of the hub and lift it up so you can get the one bolt out. I just did it on my 08 R52 this past weekend. To me much less work than lowering the subframe.
Excelente explicación Compañero!!!
thnx allot your videos are so helpful =]
I usually love your videos man but this one didn't quite work out so well for me... The top end of this ball joint didn't just fall out like yours did and I'm having a heck of a time getting this out
I also installed new coilovers , new disc, brake calipers and pads
I will try the old rims and tires
Always good to install a little at a time. If the new coilovers lowered the car, that could be inducing vibration as well.
I hope you're still checking the comments on these posts. Great video's! How do you know if the ball joints are bad while they are still on the car?
Grab the tire at the top and bottom and try to wiggle it vertically (meaning opposite simultaneous forces on top and bottom, reversing). If you feel free play, seek and find what's loose, start with lower ball joint.
Your videos are extremely helpful, but please post the torque specs. Nice and hand-tight can vary, and this is a critical component.
Sorry, but you'll have to look those up yourself. The only values I know are for head gaskets and that sort of thing. I honestly don't know what the torque values should be for most other fasteners and there are no published torque values for most of them. It's a skill that you need to have.
It's fairly obvious when the bolt is tight. There is a period of no resistance after which the resistance starts to increase exponentially. Don't overtighten, and as long as bolt doesn't loosen if you push back counterclockwise with about half the tightening force, you should be fine.
Bentley manual says 41ft/lb for the nuts to the control arm as well as for the bolt to the steering knuckle
Pleasepleaseplease do inner ball joints!
Willwoods ! So jello.. unfortunately I'm committed to my rims being 15 with my dd set and my slicks sooo no bb for me
Hi there great video. I'm trying to remove the lower ball joint using the similar extractor tool but the ball joint rubber boot is ripped off and I can't get the tool to hold. Is there another was of getting it off
My drive shaft has popped out of the transmission a couple times already, do you have any idea why it won't stay in? This started happening after I had to replace it because it was failing.
+Mod MINI can you do a video on changing the inner ball joints on an R56, please?
The seem to be press fitted on the control arm but replacements are available. I'd love some guidance before I get stuck unable to remove the old ones or not able to install the new ones!
Mini mod can you do a video replacing the inner ball joints
+Gerson “hurs19120” Roman There are two ways - drop subframe or pull axles. Pulling axles is easier.
Ok. I got a real bad sound coming from under the car. Everytime I hit a bump or pull foward. It sounds like metal clapping. So I'm replacing the bushing tomorrow. Hopefully that fixes the problem. The axle are brand new from the dealer. And I just replaced the outer ball joints. So hopefully it's the bushings.
+Gerson “hurs19120” Roman Check all engine mounts as well.
Ok. I didn't even think about the mounts. Your videos have literally saved me thousands. I definitely appreciate them.
Seems like the outers can be done at anytime. I am dropping the subframe to do the control arm bushings/sway bar bushings, 57k on an 05 R53, the ball joints should still be good at this mileage right? Rubber in Colorado not so much.
hi, great video.
To replace the inner ball joints, do you need to remove the subframe?
Joeri Polfliet You also can get to them by removing the axles (you can actually just push them out of the way but it's a bit easier to just pull them.
Ok thank you. I have to replace the outer ball joints. Is it necessary to replace the inner ball joints also? My car is a 2006 cooper s cabrio with 91000 KM. The control arm bushings will be replaced by some purple powerplex bushings. To remove the control arm i had to remove the outer ball joints and will replace them.
Joeri Polfliet If they are worn out, then yes. You might as well replace them since you will be removing the control arm anyway.
was the ball joint removed because it was knocking when turning over a bump or uneven Road surface???
+Ste Day I don't remember. I think I was chasing down a clunk.
Can you use the same separator tool on the inner ball joints without dropping the subframe?
No, the inner ball joint is pretty captive and alternate methods must be devised. I haven't found a way to separate the inner ball joint without damaging it other than either dropping the subframe or removing the half shafts and control arms.
We were able to use the tool on my cooper s by removing the control arm and using it that way,it was fairly easy.
what sort of play is observable when the ball joints are bad? are the symptoms much like when the control arm bushings are bad, the wobble of the wheels when kicked?
No. Control arm bushing play is different. For things other than ball joints, raise car off ground and grab wheel, and try to move by hand. It shouldn't move at all in vertical direction and horizontal motion should be steering movement only. If there is any excess motion (around 1mm), you'd then need to track down whether it's hub, tie rod ends or ball joints.
What would you do if the long stud of the ball joint sheared off? How then would you remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle?
Overtightened the ball joint nut to the point that the threaded part of the joint sheared clean off...
Hi Mod MINI in two weeks im gonna replace both inner and outer ball joints on both sides, control arm bushing and passenger side cv axle. I would like to do the whole job without having to lower the subframe. Any advise?
Are the inner ball joints pressed into the control arm?
I got the ball joint tool you showed but im not sure if i will be able to use it for the inner.
Also I was able to replace the driver side axle, motor mounts both top and the bottom one, crank position sensor o'ring and oil filter housing o'ring thanks to your videos. Thank you so much again.
+Frank Nativi Inner ball joint will be a challenge. Usually they are not in very tight but if it doesn't fall out, you'll have to use a pickle fork or a big hammer. You can remove both axles to enable removing the inner ball joint bolts and then work on the control arms on the workbench.
+Mod MINI to lower the subframe, do you have to out the car in front service mode?
+Frank Nativi yes.
Just today I was tackling the LCA inner ball joint as i needed to put new poly bush in.
I really struggled but found success by putting the outer joint on lightly with a few turns just to act as steady/pivot..
Then using the mini emergency tirechange jack, i put that on the top of the arm near as possible to the inner balljoint to arm area, and then wound up the jack so that it met the vertical subframe area by the large bolt ( you'll see )
Then continued to crank the jack up to get some decent preload on the LCA, then hit the arm rear side with a 4lb lump hammer a few times and the joint popped out from the arm.
I can see changing the whole inner balljoint would be an excersize in patience and perseverance though..good luck with that one!
Hi, that camera you have is pretty cool. I was wondering what kind of camera you are using.
+Sky Blue GoPro attached to a headband.
What are the Torque specs for the outer ball joint on a 03?
Do you think it's worth while to put a little antiseize between the ball joint and the wheel carrier to prevent the two from getting stuck together or would that cause problems with the fit?
+John Duke It would fit just fine, not sure if it would make any difference with disassembly next time (the parts are hard to come apart not from corrosion but from pressure fit) but worth a try.
what happens when the ball joint won't come free from the hub, even after using heat, a wedge, a dremel and a hammer?
Use more heat or a bigger hammer... Sorry but it's true. Usually hitting them from the top with an impact hammer pops them out. Try to replicate that. May take a while.
Would I be able to remove those nuts without an impact gun, perhaps if I soak them with PB blaster for a few days prior?
Yes, they should come off relatively easily, but you'll need to use a hex key wrench to prevent the ball portion from spinning.
I get a squeaking noise when I slightly turn the wheel while driving, then when I brake, (nothing). Should I replace the ball joint?
+sultan sullies Ball joint would be a clunk. This sounds like something related to steering - strut tower bearings maybe?
When doing this, will the ball joints have to be replaced if they pop similarly? One of mine seems to be seized onto the wheel hub and I couldnt seem to get it off. Used this method and it came off the 18mm bolt, but is def shot. Was just wondering if me doing this method killed the ball joint.
Replace ball joints if there is any play in the joint itself.
I have a steady vibration at 52 mph +. It is from the front. Engine engaged or not. I just put new RF tires on and same vibration. Could the vibration be from the otter ball joints?
Bent wheel, unbalance tire or excessively worn struts.
my outer ball joints are seized up. I have tried heavy use of PB Blaster, hammering down on the control arm and also used a block of wood on the lower control arm all in an effort to have that ball joint drop. No luck so far. Any tips?
thesqaanalyst Hello - seems you got it figured out - the best way to deal with stuck outer ball joints is use a cold chisel and a big hammer. It might help to grind the tip of the cold chisel to a more narrow wedge. Hammer really hard from the front and the back and it will start to come out.
Hi Mod MINI, when i jack my car up one of the wheels has a horizontal or left and right movement. I am told it's probably the ball joints, but it could also be the bearings. If it´s the ball joints I want to replace it without taking it to the mechanic, but I'm not sure. Do you know what it could be?
Thanks alot. I already used one of your videos to replace the power steering pump and it went great.
+Simon Salomon You'll have to poke around to figure out the source, but typically it's the control arm bushing or the inner ball joint.
Hey, I'm doing this job in a week or so. I think my brakes are cooking the joints; both grease boots are pretty much disintegrated. Could you recommend a way to get a heat shield in between the two? I noticed you have one.
There should be a heat shield there already.
I bought the separator tool but I cannot tell where you are putting the open end of the tool.
+Renji Hayashi Between the rubber boot of the ball joint and the control arm.
I ended up buying a Dremal tool and chiseling both ball joints out. Thank you.
OK I have a mini Cooper 2004 and my question is how to adjust the clutch on the mini coopers 2004 and under
The clutch is self adjusting.
Is an alignment needed for just outer ball joints?
most likely no.
Hey, just curious what your experience with different brands of ball joints for the R53 has been. I got my car all disassembled yesterday to replace the ball joints with Mevotech units from Rock Auto. I then realized they sent two left inners, and now have to use one of O'Reilly's Master Pro units on the inner right. Is there a huge quality difference that you've noticed? Or is it pretty much a ball joint's a ball joint's a ball joint?
+Axe Hacks Better brands most likely last longer. The best brands would be something like Febi or Lemforder. Outers are easy to replace so any brand is probably ok but I'd get the best I could find for the inners because they are a lot harder to replace.
Is it possible to remove the ball joint without the tool?
+Renji Hayashi Yes, whack really hard with a really big hammer. The knuckle, not the ball joint.
Do you have some tips to know if ball joints are worn? My mini feel more bouncy since a month or two. I planned to change the passenger hydrolic engine mount (little leak and no gap on the mount) and lower stabilizer very soon (parts are comming), I also read that it can be cv joint too. I can hear sometimes a little clunk when I turn streering wheel back during a parking manoeuvre
My car is on aftermarker coilover since a good moment (third summer with them) but I noticed the difference in the ride despite this
Can I use that ball joint tool to remove the inner ball joint?
No. Inner ball joint, the best way is to loosen nut, heat up the socket with a torch and hit the socket with a BFH (big F'ing hammer) until it pops loose.
So I've been trying for the last few days now to remove the outer ball joints, but no amount of whacking with a "bfh" has done anything. It's still stuck in the knuckle, any advice? Thanks in advance!
+Dennis Nguyen Use a cold chisel between the ball joint and the knuckle/spindle. You need at least a 3 or 4 pound BFH.
hello again and sorry to bother you, I don't have a ball joint separator. Could I simply loosen the main single nut off, then put it back on to protect the threads and hit it upwards? thanks
Warwick Dean You don't want to hit the threads. You always hit the thing that the ball joint goes through. If you hit the threads, the metal will become briefly larger and will resist separating. So hit the knuckle instead - but you need a big hammer to do so.
did them earlier thanks for the advice. feels a hundred times better they were just tired
thanks again mini king
did them earlier thanks for the advice. feels a hundred times better they were just tired
thanks again mini king
What size are the 13mm bolts that go into the ball joint? I just bought an 03 Cooper S and I'm missing those bolts! Any help would be appreciated.
M10 x 1.5 x 20mm
In my 06 mini i have noticed a wobble felt while driving the slower you go the worse it is. Is this due to the ball joint wearing out? At highway speeds it is better but you can still feel it in the steering wheel. What are your thoughts.
Jason S I can't confidently diagnose something like this remotely. Possible culprits are (in no particular order): control arm bushings, inner ball joints, outer ball joints, bad tires, shocks, tie rod ends, a bent wheel or wheel bearings. It should be possible to identify the bad part by put the car up in the air and start pulling and prying around and swapping front and rear tires.
Hi. can you tell me which bushings for the control arm of a 2006 minicooper do you recommend, the originals or those purple polyurethane
The powerflex. amzn.to/2Jw3gC0
theres a pretty loud pop coming from the passanger side of my mini everytime i take off and sometimes turn the corner, it only pops once but it does it throughout the time that im driving, ne advice on wat it could b?
+Pablo O. That could be a failing ball joint or CV joint.
For some crazy reason I just get the lower ball joints to budge! (I've tried the tool, air chisel, cold chisel and the occasional swear word) NOTHING! Any suggestions? I'm thinking about removing the axles, the hubs and sensors and just taking the bracket to someone to get them pressed out... This is a PITA! Thanks for any suggestions. I've got the winter to get her put back together, but this has me stumped!
+Robert Williams Cold chisel with the tip ground a little so that it can fit between the knuckle and the ball joint. Hit hard with a sledge hammer. Work alternately from front and back. Eventually it will come loose. Use some penetrating oil. Heat on the knuckle might help as well but remove anything with rubber first.
I'm gonna give it another try and pull out the torch!
My outer balljoint to hub carrier are well rusted in place. I don't think mine have ever been changed yet ( just coming up to 70,000 on a 2003 R50 cooper )
I am chasing down a clunk on turning when setting off from stationary but I'm really having to change them as i managed to split the boot of each outer joint with a balljoint splitter similar to the one in the video but due to it's upper fork thickness it wouldn't go in straight on, i had to tackle splitting from the rear side under the track rod control arm. Pita!
Anyhoo, turns out my discs need replacing so had to get those off by drilling out the T50 m10x13 countersunk screw as it just wouldnt shift after days of penetrating fluid, sharp hits with a heavy hammer, a hend held impact driver and finally chewed the face up with a centre punch and hammer in an attempt to shock it undone.... Bad times.
what is the torq specs?
I have a 04 mini cooper s, I changed the inner and outer ball joint, shock and strut. No change to a clucking sound on the passenger side front. Its everytime I get a hole or the road is bumpy. If any one can help it would me awesome.
+Diego Miranda Maybe a bad / loose end link or worn out steering tie rod end?
Thank you, I'll check the end links to verify because I changed the tie rods also.
Where did u get the ball joints and the what brand do you recommend
See video description.
Replaced my run flats today and while on the alignment rack they told me the rt side tie rods are frozen in place. I probably hit a bump and bent them. The shop couldn't find parts available today so I plan on ordering and replacing myself however I need some advice on removing the inner tie rod. Is it possible to loosen the inner w/o a tool? I saw a video where they used a 1 5/8" removal tool. Would I be able to use a 1 5/8" wrench to loosen/tighten it? I have a 2005 Mini R53.
Thanks.
+krushmoto1 I don't remember. I think you need the special tool but there might be clearance for just a regular wrench. It is going to be a really big size, something like 30 or 32mm. I've done it before but with the subframe on the ground. I don't know if there is clearance to do it on the car without a special tool.
+Mod MINI
Thank you and keep making videos.
If it wasn't for you I would have probably taken my Mini to the shop instead of working on it myself. I'm no longer a twenty something willing to just wing it! LOL
Keep up the great work.
+krushmoto1 I removed my inner tie rod with a regular crescent (adjustable) wrench. The one I have is pretty fair sized which is good cause you'll want a lot of leverage to get that thing loose. I got the boot out of the way, and then I just slid it up between the lower control arm and the subframe (I think) Mine was super bent after sliding into a curb so there was no way I could use a tool to get it apart.
+John Duke
Thanks John. I'm going to have a crack at it this wknd.
Hi, Mod Mini I have a 03 cooper S just put some GP rims and run flat tires, the steering wheel shakes while driving when going over 50 miles I already have two tire shops balance the tires and did an aligment any ideas
If it wasn't there before and the only thing you changed was the wheels and tires, it's the wheels and tires. Put the old ones back on and see if the problem goes away. If it does, it's the wheels and tires. What other explanation is there?
Only other mildly possible explanation is worn shocks which are not absorbing bumps as well as whatever other tire setup you had.