I can’t tell you how many times I have watched your videos to fix my R53! You have saved me an absolute fortune! Thank you so so much for making these detailed and informative videos!
I used this video as a guide and replaced my 2002 Mini Cooper S thermostat and housing today. The video gave me confidence to do it. I've owned the R53 since new (21 years) and it's good to know that some of the work can be done without a $500-$1000+ repair bill every time. I had my alternator replaced by a local mechanic earlier this year as the electric power steering was not working. Upon pick-up, I said I'm sure you'll enjoy seeing this car in the future, right? He said "I don't ever want to see it again." He made $800 off that repair. Total cost today for the thermostat housing replacement w/thermostat was $70 bucks. I ordered the parts on Amazon and of course they were wrong. Found a replacement housing in stock at a local auto parts store for $34. Better to have an easy return option for what came out to $10 more. FYI: While the airbag is off, i recommend squirting a little white lithium grease on the gearbox levers - as my 6-speed manual shifter was stiff and notchy. The re-grease on the linkage made the shifter smother to operate. Have someone go inside and shift through the gears (with the engine off!) and you can grease more areas. (Last project was replacing the A/C compressor without taking the bumper off. That was a solid two-day job.)
Thank you very much for posting this instructional video! The step by step instructions were clear and easy to follow, thus greatly reducing the time that would have been required for a novice technician such as myself to accomplish this repair, and it saved a bundle in costly labor expense as well! Perhaps most important is in how this video gave me the confidence to accomplish servicing my wife's Mini (I used her profile to view the video and to write this comment) by myself without having to impose upon friends or family to otherwise get the job done. It also made a great training tool for my eldest son who assisted me in this repair as it helped expose him to the different forms of reference that a service technician can utilize when making any repair or performing service to a vehicle. My wife's Mini is now running like a top again with no engine overheat concerns and plenty of heat being pumped into the cabin, thanks again for the wonderful video that enabled me to get the job done without costly labor expense and at the same time boost my confidence in regard to servicing her vehicle!
Minis s r52 w11 also !!! This guy! People’s are the best ! If I had a million I would donate !!!! Am spreading the word to my mini community socal, as if they don’t already know you!!!
Kurt, your 'how to' vid's are truly awesome and you're clearly The Stig of Mini's over there in the USA. What we need over here is Kurt's UK cousin! - but If you don't watch the UK's Top Gear show over there, you won't understand any of the above!. Anyhow, please keep the vid's coming. Cheers.
Anthony - it should be around 190 degrees F. the overheat indicator probably comes on at around 220F (I'm not sure). To properly bleed the system, you need to turn on the heat (not the A/C) to open up the heater core and clear any air that might be trapped inside. Make sure the reservoir is at least half full and run the engine until the system heats up and pressurizes (stop if the temp warning light comes on). Then turn off the car and crack the plastic bleed screw (on the upper radiator hose) until air stops coming out. Add coolant until it is at about half full. It will take 2-3 times sometimes to burp all the air.
Just did this on my friend's R53 earlier today. I'd probably still have gotten it done, but it would have been much more stressful without this video. Unfortunately, the dipstick broke off in the tube this morning, so I'll be following some of your other videos soon :-/ Glad they're here though.
+Mod MINI - Indeed. Just did that with the help of your front end service mode video. Thanks again. The short version is that it turned out the dipstick had broken into three pieces and the two not attached to the handle were both stuck in the middle of the tube, between the two bends. Quite a relief that I didn't have to drop the oil pan to find it. Though with the coolant leak stopped, it's become obvious that there's an oil leak as well...
Many thanks for this video, it gave me confidence to tackle the thermostat replacement on our R52 (same except battery where air intake is on your video). Thanks again.
Thanks for the video I'm about to replace my thermostat, having problems with my car heating up but when accelerating it goes back to normal, so let's see how it goes and we'll be posting the results, thank again for the video
You have just made a job, which I have been dreading, look much more manageable. Thank you so much for this! My wife has a 2003 Cooper, there has always been a coolant issue. It will be fine for days then suddenly empty the reservoir. Recently it stabilized but under the front of the car there have been two little wet patches that appear over the course of a day or two. I wonder if it's the thermostat housing? It's battery side of mid line. Anyway, I digress, I thank you again as even my trusty Haynes manual made this look daunting and you've made it look much better.
If your car is a 2002-2003 and the wet spot is under the bumper (as opposed to further back on the car), it's probably the radiator upper hose outlet that's leaking. There is an o-ring between the radiator end tank and the hose outlet that is known to leak. It's a weak design. You could replace the o-ring if you can find one that would fit, or just replace the whole radiator for peace of mind. If it's the thermostat that is leaking, the wet spot will be more toward the center of the engine bay.
Thank you so much for getting back to me. I've not tackled the job yet as it mysteriously stopped and seemed ok. Low and behold it is back though and again the expansion tank ranges from full to dry. It is under the bumper and on the right side if looking at the car. How hard is a rad change?
Olly RM Yup, that's leaking from the upper radiator hose inlet. Do front end service mode (watch this: Front End Service mode 2002-06 MINI Cooper/radiator/bumper removal howto). Then, separate the radiator from the radiator housing.
Olly RM You can do a cheap pressure test by just running the car until it builds water pressure. Carefully inspect the front and back side of the radiator around the hose inlet. You'll probably see droplets coming out.
Thank you very much for posting this video . I just copied you with great success. I will be watching more videos if anythibg else goes wrong . 5 star 👍🏻🏴✌🏻💚
I enjoyed this video as I do all of your videos. THe only problem I had when I did mine was that when I was trying to remove the wiring I cracked off the slider pieces. I didnt realize that they mounted like that. I just wish you had mentioned that in your video. I will look closer next time.
+BigSteveRealtor Sorry to hear that. Which wiring? As with all cars, study carefully before removal and don't force anything beyond the strength of the material.
+Mod MINI THe one you remove at 3:24. But I also notice something that looks different. when you take the plug off the MAF bracket you just twist and pull and there seems to just be a square opening in the metal. I didnt have that I had slide in latches on the bracket and on the bottom of the plug. I just pulled up on it as you did and pop. My fault I should have looked.
+BigSteveRealtor The slide in latch thing for the O2 sensor is attached to the metal bracket by a nylon white chunk of plastic. Twist and that comes out of the bracket all in one go. You have to twist like I do in the video to line up the plastic with the hole. You can also just unplug the O2 sensor harness connection and leave the other end of the O2 sensor attached to the metal thing. I wouldn't worry about it, this part is broken on a lot of cars. Just zip tie it to something nearby.
Hey I got a few questions . I changed my water pump ,radiator,thermostat as well as the hoses and when I’m adding the antifreeze I’m getting no water to the radiator, Heater is blowing hot ,I even took out the thermostat and boiled it to see if it opens and it works fine , I’m just not getting water to the air valve on the hoses to the radiator? And also when I touch my spark plugs it’s shocks me ? Thank you for your videos , your definitely my go to guy ,when comes for anything under the hood with my mini !! Thank you
Excellent video. Thank you so much. After repair I started up and bled, no heat up. However, my fan started running immediately on start up and I don't remember it doing that in the past, Shouldn't fan only come on after heat up? Did I miss plugging a wiring harness back in somewhere? Thoughts? thanks again.
My gas gauge just stopped working when I filled up the tank, looks like I'm completely empty. Do you have a vid that covers that? Couldn't find in the 02 - 06 playlist. Thanks!
My mini inside does not get hot at all, and the cooland reservoir has cracked because of pressure (too hot), is this maybe the problem i have? Replacing thermostat?
hello i got a question my mini cooper 2003 speedometer is not working, i took the mini with a profesional and told me that the car had a short circuit in the speed sensor, so my question is where is located this sensor and how can i fix it myself? thanks! :)
Speedometer is probably governed by the 4 wheel speed sensors. If there is a problem with these sensors your DSC or ASC light should be on. You'd need to go to each wheel hub and inspect and replace any faulty hall sensors there. The transmission itself has no electrical wiring other than the backup switch (that lights the reverse light).
They don't seem to make anymore. I've switched to 12v Milwaukee ratcheting wrench instead which is a great tool. 3/8 kit: amzn.to/2IO6K3d. 1/4 kit: amzn.to/2kpNudK. 1/4 tool only: amzn.to/2s8nrfB
Hey Mod Mini! I have an 03 mini cooper and I can't get any heat to come out. Everytime I start my car and rev the engine, you can hear water slushing behind the dash. Its hard to explain but you can hear water and its kind of loud if you rev good enough. Someone told me that means there's air in the pipes or something. Do you know what that might be? And is that why I don't have heat?
Hello , I really appreciate the way you share your knowledge. Now my mini r53 1.6 supercharger 2005 got all new silicone pipes , and I'm really confused about the bleeding process. There is 2 bleeding valves ( one on top off the radiator and one near thermostat housing) , can you explain me which valve to use and the correct procedure. There is so much information on the Internet that is hard to understand the correct way to do, each one does a different way . Keep up the good content
Hello ModMini. I have a 2006 Mini Cooper S that has a coolant leak. It is not a drip drip leak, it is a gush. It just happened last night. I have been having temp problems recently where it would spike all the way while idling and then when in motion, went back down to regular temp. I kept adding antifreeze and it put a bandaid on the problem until last night. I started smoking on my way home and I smelled the antifreeze. Stopped at a gas station and bought some more coolant and added it to the expansion tank. About 15 seconds later, it gushed out. I'm thinking it may be a hose as the problem has been gradually getting worse. It may prove helpful if I mention that I was having problems getting the heater in the car to work. It would be hot and then go to luke warm, nearly cool. Like I said though, I'm leaning towards hose but any insight would be extremely helpful. It seemed to be coming from the general vicinity as where the thermostat housing would be.
You'll need to dry the car out and either get a pressure tester or run it until it warms up and builds coolant pressure, then look for the leak. It really could be anything - coolant tank, hose connector, thermostat gasket - you need to inspect and verify.
***** It is the coupler in between the t shaped plastic piece that comes from the thermostat housing and the hose coming from the expansion tank. It is completely gone. Thank you for the video though I used it as a reference. Keep up the good work!
Hi there ,I changed my thermostat 6 month ago and I don't have a leek in my thermostat core too, my fan blows air with out heat ,just some ,what could case that ? thank you
Add coolant and crack the two bleed screws until air no longer comes out. Get car warm to move fluid around, and with cap installed, very carefully crack again and let air escape. If hot air is not blowing out heater core after a test drive, repeat.
i have a coolant leak coming from my r53 water seems to be running done the side of the trans pretty sure its the thermostat housing picked up a new aluminum kit to replace the plastic one sound right to you?
I have an '06 S convertible that runs fine, maintains proper coolant levels (no leaks), has heat that works fine. But as soon as I start the engine, the fan comes on and keeps running. Not getting any error codes or SES lights. The condition seems to have started around 100k. Thermostat hasn't been replaced yet. Is it time to do that, or do you think it may be something else? Thanks for the video's and helpful comments / tips!
You do not need it. Waste a bit of Gas, but NEVER have to worry about it again. If you live in Hot / Warm Weather, take it out and you can thank me later !!!
If I remove my air box, snorkel, and move wires out of the way. Would I be able to visibly see if my thermostat housing is the culprit for my leaking coolant?
great vid and brilliant detail... i suspect that my wife's 2006 has a possibly blocked or partially blocked rad,, what are your vies on using rad flush or similar please... regards don
I have a 2005 R52 base model Convertible, I'm looking for a CVT flush Video with new filter and your suggested fluid . Other items i'm interested in such as undercarriage parts replacement,Bushings, shocks front and rear. and misc. electronic troubleshooting such as currently my a/c fluctuates during operation, blows hot and then blows cold. Your collection of Videos are quite informative and I like that, not much pre project dialog, your more direct to the tech, one question though Have you ever felt unsafe under the car with only jack stands holding the car up? Thanks Dan
Excellent. I just bought an 08, are any oil change places aware of mini's as well as they know say...ford or chevy? I want a antifreeze flush because at an idle sitting for minutes it gets hot tho I drove 60 miles at 70 and it stayed perfect temperature. and I heard GTX castrol is recomended or used more in preference to mini's in oil changes. Is this true?
The instructions state that the R53 has 6 liters of cooling system. I managed to drain only 2 liters. I removed the hose at the bottom of the radiator, opened the expansion tank cap, the vent on the hose at the radiator, and the vent on the thermostat housing. I also turned on the ignition (without starting the engine) and gave the heating to HI and the fan to 1. I also blown 1 bar (15 PSI) with compressed air. I was blowing through the breather on the hose above the radiator. Maybe you had to blow through the expansion tank? There is a video on RUclips of a guy blowing a hose, probably from a heater, but getting to this hose requires disassembling the air box with the computer, so I gave up. About 2.5 liters entered during the filling. How do I drain more fluid?
I doubt there are six liters even if the engine is completely dry. There is a plug on back of engine but there will always be trapped fluid so the only way to completely replace is to drain and fill multiple times, but I doubt that's necessary unless you had oil water mix
Hi me again mod. My mini does not blow hot air into the cab. I changed the thermostat that didn’t do it then I checked the water pump and that was fine. I’m suspecting a clogged heater core (matrix) what’s your thoughts. Cheers.
This is so helpful! Thank you. My engine fan is having issues and not turning off. Last time this happened it was a busted thermostat. I feel like its that again. Especially since my oil cap was leaking right onto the housing. Reasonable conclusion?
+Jennaca Skye Check the temperature sending unit. If the sending unit is bad or wire is disconnected, it will default to a 'high' reading and fan will not turn off.
+Jennaca Skye I don't know what an ECT is. The coolant temperature sensor is below and behind the thermostat and MAP sensor. It is screwed into the side of the head. Very hard to see. It is just above the heater core line that runs from the water pump, below the thermostat housing, and toward the firewall.
Coolant reservoir just burst in half followed by an atomic cloud of water/coolant lasting for 15 minutes. THe temp guage inside the car did not detect the engine overheating until after the explosion. Any ideas? please help.
Thanks for your awesome videos! They are incredibly helpful. I own an 03 MCS and a 06 MCS. The 03 is overheating only when idling with the AC on. Once it overheats, the coolant bubbles out of the middle of the overflow tank... kind of like through a seam on the front! To start with, I drove the car and got it warmed up. It drove without a problem. Then I parked it and let it idle and it did not overheat. I did check to see if the electric fan was going after I drove it and while it was idling parked and the fan was NOT on. After that, I kept it idling and turned on the AC and after a short while it began to overheat and bubble out of the tank. Still, the fan did NOT go on. My questions: Is the fan not going on a sign of a stuck thermostat? When overheating is it normal to bubble out of the tank like that? I'm trying to determine just what I need to replace before doing so unnecessarily.
Hey mod mini i just replaced my thermostat because my coolant tank was over flowing and i replaced the cap, i dont think its the head gasket as i dont see any smoke, oil looks brand new and theres no loss of power. Is there a possible air bubble in the system that would cause it to overheat and the expansion tank to overflow thru the cap?
You should NEVER use just water in a cooling system! Coolant, in addition to reducing the freezing point and increasing the boiling point of water alone, contains corrosion inhibitors for this very reason. It also lubricates the water pump impeller shaft. You will do lasting damage to not just the thermostat but also aluminum components such as radiator and cylinder head.
Fantastic videos i have watched nearly all of them and they have been incredibly helpful. I had a question tho and was hoping you could help. I recently purchased an 02 s jcw and the previous owner was sketchy and it now appears to be leaking coolant but i am having trouble finding the source. It seems to be coming down the left side of the engine but i have found drips on the back and right as well. It isn't a huge amount of coolant but I'm worried it might be a water pump or something big. Any tips or places to check are greatly appreciated. ( by left side i mean the side you would see from the steering wheel not looking at it from the front.)
Normal sources are coolant expansion tank or thermostat gasket, water pump inlet o-ring or the water pump itself. On 2002-2003 cars, the top radiator inlet can also be a leak source. Get a good flashlight and poke around.
@@ModMINI The top radiator inlet is where one of the leaks in my car is coming from. the 3 way (very wet and dripping) and 4 way (moist). Any suggestions on replacing these? cant to the clips on half, so i assume pulling the whole coolant hose assembly is needed to do so... Tips and tricks greatly appreciated.
Hi nice work very informative, any ideas on a rough idle now and again after full ignition pack installed? ive heard it could be the map sensor or along them lines, Stay safe
@@wetheunseen7675 - You live in Hot / Warm Weather? You do not need the Thermostat. Waste a bit of Gas on start up, but NEVER have to worry about it again. If you live in Hot / Warm Weather, take it out completely and you can thank me later !!!
Hi my 03 MCS has been leaking coolant quite regularly for a couple weeks now I have been adding the coolant but it got hot today. reservoir was bone dry. mechanic at the local Euro shop said it's typical for minis to leak at the flange. Is the flange an easy replacement and do the flange and thermostat go hand-in-hand when they're replaced?
+Linda W. What flange? Usual leak locations are thermostat gasket, reservoir tank itself and the water pump. Sometimes the inlet / outlet pipes to the radiator leak on the 2002-2003 cars but the other leaks are much more common.
+Mod MINI Thanks for the quick reply!! I've been watching your videos... I spoke with a local mechanic and he mentioned a flange attached to the water pump...but clearly your input makes sense after looking closer, we noticed the radiator had moisture on the front and realized the drip was trickling down to the ground in that area and has gotten worse over the last 2 days. So, you're probably correct with the radiator or hoses. I had to leave it to the educated, I cant drive it down the I5 or 805 leaking coolant! THANKS for posting your very informative vids...wish you were closer I'd want my itty-bitty Mini in your care! keep posting!
+Linda W. Ah, you mean the water pump to block flange. Yes that does sometimes leak - it is replaced at the same time as water pump. Most cars I've looked at these days it's been the water pump that is leaking. It leaves coolant scum along the front side of the block and drips down from the splash shield under the car at roughly the middle front.
Is the coolant temperature sensor next to the housing on the underside? I think I saw it in the vid just want to make sure. I'm replacing mine soon just need to know where exactly it is.
OmegaZero1242 Coolant temp sensor is near the back of the head close to the bottom where it meets the cylinder block. Use a 19mm wrench or maybe a deep drive socket to remove.
Hey, I changed my thermostat hoousing now because coolant was runnning out even when the car wasn´t on. So I changed the housing, the thermostat and the gasket. Before starting I filled the reservoir up as you said. On my first round after 5km the heat goes up pretty quickly and the heater won´t work at all. So no heat in the car only cold. I tried this several times but it stays like this. Do you have an idea what went wrong? Is it maybe the waterpump? It´s a R50 2002 116PS. Cheers
Amazing video. Do I have to disconnect the battery? I have a pending code P0128. And i have to do the inspection this month. I don’t want to go through the painful drive cycle. Again by removing the ecu will it clear the drive cycle?
My girlfriend's 2006 Mini Cooper S Hatch is having an overheating problem. It overheats when idling. But while moving it is dead center. After a couple hours of it being off when I turn it back it's at the center still. Is this a thermostat problem? I've checked coolant levels and they seem normal. I can hear the radiator fan kick on when it starts to climb towards the red.
Overheating can be caused by any of the following. 1. Thermostat is not open or is lazy 2. Radiator is clogged 3. Fan is not coming on 4. Low on water 5. Belt is broken and water pump not spinning If overheating only when idle, and you know the fan is running on HIGH mode, then probably radiator is clogged or the thermostat is not opening all the way.
Okay, then how would I proceed in checking those two things, and which is more frequent? Thanks for the fast reply. I'm sure a thousand people have asked you these same questions. Would you advise against changing the thermostat myself? I am not mechanically illiterate and the video made it seem pretty simple.
Hey boss, I hope you still read your comments. My R 53 has a leak. It is a clear odorless lightly viscous mystery fluid coming from the front. Just underneath the engine block. Any suggestions? I have scoured, mini forums and Reddit for the answer, all of which provided nothing.
***** Hello. I've been having a leaking problem with mt '05 R50. Right below in between the reservoir tank and the engine. Just under where you put your put your hands at 3:46 in the video. Every time i drive it. I can see a little puddle forming down there and i cant pinpoint where the leak is coming from exactly. Based on your experience, any idea what it might be?
My thermostat is fine, but the plastico fantastico failed. After hearing up, and cooling down for so many years the thing does get brittle and cracked. If you are in it doing the job, replace it.
would this affect the starting of the car? i have what i think is thermostat problems. but if the car is left off for around 6-8 hours it has trouble starting after that the fans on almost all the time any ideas please?
Jack Paget It would not affect car starting but over time it could cause oil sludge buildup if car can't run at correct operating temperature and it is not fixed for a long time.
I've been experiencing very poor fuel economy numbers ever since I bought my r53. I can't seem to do better than 24 mpg even when I'm very conservative, shifting around 2.5k. could this be my issue? what other things could cause this? I already replaced my air filter and spark plugs.
That's honestly probably pretty normal for the car. You won't get much better than that unless you are on a 4 hour drive on the interstate with no traffic.
I have just bought a Mini Cooper 2004 1.6 petrol, it's started to overheat and dumped all of its coolant. After bleeding the cooling system it seemed okay although after taking it for another drive I came home parked up and it's dumped something else all over my drive, not oil or coolant as these were both okay. Now coming out this morning and running it for 10 minutes the temp gauge got to 90degress while sitting idly (I have the chrono package so normal running temp) but then all of sudden I see smoke coming out of the bonnet again, so I switch it all off and have left it. Any advice?
hi I've got a problem with my cooper s engine warms up on idle but when driven the needle drops to about 25 percent the thermostat got changed about a year ago so not sure what going on with it, what do you think?
Older video, but Im sure you've got an idea. Same model, just a 2004 Cooper S. So the level of my coolant reservoir goes down slightly every now and then (not much, but you can notice it when taking a look). Ive replaced the coolant tank already, because it had a crack in the middle. Now here comes the tricky part. The temperature inside my car goes up when I turn the heat (not AC) on. This should mean my thermostat works properly right? I dont see any leaks under the car where its parked, should be noticeable easily on sand. Could it still be the thermostat housing itself?
You probably have a leak somewhere, common locations are water pump or thermostat housing. It's a slow leak so it likely only leaks when system is under pressure and evaporates off side of the block before it hits the ground. I don't understand why you mention temperature going up when heat is turned on. That's what it's supposed to do.
It was a leak from the thermostat (the gasket was bad), quick and cheap fix. When the car was running it pressed the fluid out on the upper part, luckily the housing was still good cause I couldnt get the hoses off.
hi there so I had a question my mini recently had a dead battery so jumpered it and got it charge and I took it for a spin and after a minute and half it died on idk if my battery is going bad or what but when I got out and opened my hood I saw on my coolant reservoir tank started bubbling and I heard this clicking noise even after my car was dead any opinion what's going on
The Mini is extremely sensitive to low battery. A low battery will cause all kind of crazy symptoms. Start with replacing the battery if you haven't already. Has it run hot at all?
Hi Mod MINI. Do you have an essential tool list for this? I am about to attempt it and wonder if there any tools you suggest will make my life easier. Thanks
No. Only if the reservoir cap does not open, which I've never seen. On the 2002-2003 cars, the reservoir can crack down the middle due to a design flaw, however. It's not hard to install a replacement reservoir.
Even in 2024 these R53 videos are priceless. We bought a ‘06 MCS in January and EVERY issue I’ve been able to do myself thanks to this channel.
I can’t tell you how many times I have watched your videos to fix my R53! You have saved me an absolute fortune! Thank you so so much for making these detailed and informative videos!
I used this video as a guide and replaced my 2002 Mini Cooper S thermostat and housing today. The video gave me confidence to do it. I've owned the R53 since new (21 years) and it's good to know that some of the work can be done without a $500-$1000+ repair bill every time. I had my alternator replaced by a local mechanic earlier this year as the electric power steering was not working. Upon pick-up, I said I'm sure you'll enjoy seeing this car in the future, right? He said "I don't ever want to see it again." He made $800 off that repair.
Total cost today for the thermostat housing replacement w/thermostat was $70 bucks. I ordered the parts on Amazon and of course they were wrong. Found a replacement housing in stock at a local auto parts store for $34. Better to have an easy return option for what came out to $10 more. FYI: While the airbag is off, i recommend squirting a little white lithium grease on the gearbox levers - as my 6-speed manual shifter was stiff and notchy. The re-grease on the linkage made the shifter smother to operate. Have someone go inside and shift through the gears (with the engine off!) and you can grease more areas. (Last project was replacing the A/C compressor without taking the bumper off. That was a solid two-day job.)
Replaced my daughters 04 cooper S thermostat. This video was perfect and a time saver. Thanks for posting.
Thank you very much for posting this instructional video! The step by step instructions were clear and easy to follow, thus greatly reducing the time that would have been required for a novice technician such as myself to accomplish this repair, and it saved a bundle in costly labor expense as well! Perhaps most important is in how this video gave me the confidence to accomplish servicing my wife's Mini (I used her profile to view the video and to write this comment) by myself without having to impose upon friends or family to otherwise get the job done. It also made a great training tool for my eldest son who assisted me in this repair as it helped expose him to the different forms of reference that a service technician can utilize when making any repair or performing service to a vehicle. My wife's Mini is now running like a top again with no engine overheat concerns and plenty of heat being pumped into the cabin, thanks again for the wonderful video that enabled me to get the job done without costly labor expense and at the same time boost my confidence in regard to servicing her vehicle!
Minis s r52 w11 also !!! This guy! People’s are the best ! If I had a million I would donate !!!! Am spreading the word to my mini community socal, as if they don’t already know you!!!
Thanks Mod MINI, this was great diy video. I changed the thermostat on my son's Mini Cooper S 2003 last Sunday and it went like charm.
I used this guys videos for my entire xam n head swap .
Thank you so much! I'm confident I can get this done after watching your video. I'll save myself $350
Awesome, worked perfectly. I had no heat, and replaced the thermostat using your video, heat is back !. Thanks a lot !
Kurt, your 'how to' vid's are truly awesome and you're clearly The Stig of Mini's over there in the USA. What we need over here is Kurt's UK cousin! - but If you don't watch the UK's Top Gear show over there, you won't understand any of the above!. Anyhow, please keep the vid's coming. Cheers.
Anthony - it should be around 190 degrees F. the overheat indicator probably comes on at around 220F (I'm not sure).
To properly bleed the system, you need to turn on the heat (not the A/C) to open up the heater core and clear any air that might be trapped inside.
Make sure the reservoir is at least half full and run the engine until the system heats up and pressurizes (stop if the temp warning light comes on). Then turn off the car and crack the plastic bleed screw (on the upper radiator hose) until air stops coming out. Add coolant until it is at about half full.
It will take 2-3 times sometimes to burp all the air.
I take it this is done with the expansion tank cap off all the time?
You do the best work and best "how do videos". Many thanks for sharing your knowledge and time !
Just did this on my friend's R53 earlier today. I'd probably still have gotten it done, but it would have been much more stressful without this video. Unfortunately, the dipstick broke off in the tube this morning, so I'll be following some of your other videos soon :-/ Glad they're here though.
+John Swartzkoff Sounds like time for front end service mode...
+Mod MINI - Indeed. Just did that with the help of your front end service mode video. Thanks again. The short version is that it turned out the dipstick had broken into three pieces and the two not attached to the handle were both stuck in the middle of the tube, between the two bends. Quite a relief that I didn't have to drop the oil pan to find it. Though with the coolant leak stopped, it's become obvious that there's an oil leak as well...
Thanks for taking the time to make this DIY vid.
Your videos are fantastic. Thanks for putting them out there for the world!
Once again, thank you very much for these videos, you are the best!
Many thanks for this video, it gave me confidence to tackle the thermostat replacement on our R52 (same except battery where air intake is on your video). Thanks again.
Thanks for the video I'm about to replace my thermostat, having problems with my car heating up but when accelerating it goes back to normal, so let's see how it goes and we'll be posting the results, thank again for the video
Could the thermostat or the fan. Good luck.
Thanks for the video it helped me to change my thermostat.
Thanks from France👍
Great stuff, your so awesome for doing this videos for us. Been really helpful for me when im working on my mini. Thank you 👍
Thanks man saved me $300 Corona dollars!!
Video made it easy! Thank you so much!
Perfect video. The damn clamp gave me trouble. But all good. Thank you
Thanks Mod Mini!! I appreciate the walk through!
how are you reaching the housing bolts with the hoses in the way? I can't even see them. I'm only replacing the thermostat.
Love your videos. Helped me so much! Thank you
Great video thank you very much for sharing I really appreciate all your work
good vid.....just bought a 2003 jcw,so im learning just in case.!!!!....
You have just made a job, which I have been dreading, look much more manageable. Thank you so much for this!
My wife has a 2003 Cooper, there has always been a coolant issue. It will be fine for days then suddenly empty the reservoir. Recently it stabilized but under the front of the car there have been two little wet patches that appear over the course of a day or two. I wonder if it's the thermostat housing? It's battery side of mid line.
Anyway, I digress, I thank you again as even my trusty Haynes manual made this look daunting and you've made it look much better.
If your car is a 2002-2003 and the wet spot is under the bumper (as opposed to further back on the car), it's probably the radiator upper hose outlet that's leaking. There is an o-ring between the radiator end tank and the hose outlet that is known to leak. It's a weak design. You could replace the o-ring if you can find one that would fit, or just replace the whole radiator for peace of mind. If it's the thermostat that is leaking, the wet spot will be more toward the center of the engine bay.
Thank you so much for getting back to me.
I've not tackled the job yet as it mysteriously stopped and seemed ok. Low and behold it is back though and again the expansion tank ranges from full to dry.
It is under the bumper and on the right side if looking at the car.
How hard is a rad change?
Olly RM Yup, that's leaking from the upper radiator hose inlet. Do front end service mode (watch this: Front End Service mode 2002-06 MINI Cooper/radiator/bumper removal howto). Then, separate the radiator from the radiator housing.
That looks so simple when you do it! Hmmm out of interest it was suggested to try a pressure test. Would this be wise first?
Olly RM You can do a cheap pressure test by just running the car until it builds water pressure. Carefully inspect the front and back side of the radiator around the hose inlet. You'll probably see droplets coming out.
Thank you very much for posting this video . I just copied you with great success. I will be watching more videos if anythibg else goes wrong . 5 star 👍🏻🏴✌🏻💚
Great video thank you very much for doing all your hard work and sharing with us I greatly appreciate it and learn a lot from your videos keep it up
Thanks so much for your support!
What state are u in
luis almaguer I am in Seattle WA area.
Thanks you ! I was looking for this~! I'll try this at home thanks again :D
I enjoyed this video as I do all of your videos. THe only problem I had when I did mine was that when I was trying to remove the wiring I cracked off the slider pieces. I didnt realize that they mounted like that. I just wish you had mentioned that in your video. I will look closer next time.
+BigSteveRealtor Sorry to hear that. Which wiring? As with all cars, study carefully before removal and don't force anything beyond the strength of the material.
+Mod MINI THe one you remove at 3:24. But I also notice something that looks different. when you take the plug off the MAF bracket you just twist and pull and there seems to just be a square opening in the metal. I didnt have that I had slide in latches on the bracket and on the bottom of the plug. I just pulled up on it as you did and pop. My fault I should have looked.
+BigSteveRealtor The slide in latch thing for the O2 sensor is attached to the metal bracket by a nylon white chunk of plastic. Twist and that comes out of the bracket all in one go. You have to twist like I do in the video to line up the plastic with the hole. You can also just unplug the O2 sensor harness connection and leave the other end of the O2 sensor attached to the metal thing. I wouldn't worry about it, this part is broken on a lot of cars. Just zip tie it to something nearby.
+Mod MINI That is what I did just zip tied it to the bracket.
Thanks, great for sharing!
Thanks Mod MINI
Excelente video amigo!!!!!
Gracias
Thanks man just got it done with the help of your video. Thermostat was bad but I'm still getting the p0128 code. Anyone have any ideas?
Need some help. My 06 R53 is leaking coolant from behind the engine (driver side). Could the thermostat housing could be the cause?
Hey I got a few questions . I changed my water pump ,radiator,thermostat as well as the hoses and when I’m adding the antifreeze I’m getting no water to the radiator, Heater is blowing hot ,I even took out the thermostat and boiled it to see if it opens and it works fine , I’m just not getting water to the air valve on the hoses to the radiator? And also when I touch my spark plugs it’s shocks me ? Thank you for your videos , your definitely my go to guy ,when comes for anything under the hood with my mini !! Thank you
Excellent video. Thank you so much. After repair I started up and bled, no heat up. However, my fan started running immediately on start up and I don't remember it doing that in the past, Shouldn't fan only come on after heat up? Did I miss plugging a wiring harness back in somewhere? Thoughts? thanks again.
tom sweat You might have not plugged in the temperature sensor wire which is slightly below the thermostat.
My gas gauge just stopped working when I filled up the tank, looks like I'm completely empty. Do you have a vid that covers that? Couldn't find in the 02 - 06 playlist. Thanks!
Tracy Emis Mine has done this too!
My mini inside does not get hot at all, and the cooland reservoir has cracked because of pressure (too hot), is this maybe the problem i have? Replacing thermostat?
hello i got a question my mini cooper 2003 speedometer is not working, i took the mini with a profesional and told me that the car had a short circuit in the speed sensor, so my question is where is located this sensor and how can i fix it myself? thanks! :)
Speedometer is probably governed by the 4 wheel speed sensors. If there is a problem with these sensors your DSC or ASC light should be on. You'd need to go to each wheel hub and inspect and replace any faulty hall sensors there. The transmission itself has no electrical wiring other than the backup switch (that lights the reverse light).
thanks again great vid, wondering what brand of cordless 90 degree ratchet you are using, Ive had several and mine go on the fritz alot.
They don't seem to make anymore. I've switched to 12v Milwaukee ratcheting wrench instead which is a great tool. 3/8 kit: amzn.to/2IO6K3d. 1/4 kit: amzn.to/2kpNudK. 1/4 tool only: amzn.to/2s8nrfB
can you post a link for that electric screw driver the gray one that is on an angle. thanks
+pancracio pelayo I think it is not available anymore, but this is the next best thing at a reasonable cost. amzn.to/1OcQ387
It is a right angle hex drive by craftsman
Good video !!
Hey Mod Mini! I have an 03 mini cooper and I can't get any heat to come out. Everytime I start my car and rev the engine, you can hear water slushing behind the dash. Its hard to explain but you can hear water and its kind of loud if you rev good enough. Someone told me that means there's air in the pipes or something. Do you know what that might be? And is that why I don't have heat?
Bleed coolant.
@@ModMINI thanks for the super fast reply. I will do this! Can't wait to have heat
Hello , I really appreciate the way you share your knowledge.
Now my mini r53 1.6 supercharger 2005 got all new silicone pipes , and I'm really confused about the bleeding process. There is 2 bleeding valves ( one on top off the radiator and one near thermostat housing) , can you explain me which valve to use and the correct procedure. There is so much information on the Internet that is hard to understand the correct way to do, each one does a different way .
Keep up the good content
Hello ModMini. I have a 2006 Mini Cooper S that has a coolant leak. It is not a drip drip leak, it is a gush. It just happened last night. I have been having temp problems recently where it would spike all the way while idling and then when in motion, went back down to regular temp. I kept adding antifreeze and it put a bandaid on the problem until last night. I started smoking on my way home and I smelled the antifreeze. Stopped at a gas station and bought some more coolant and added it to the expansion tank. About 15 seconds later, it gushed out. I'm thinking it may be a hose as the problem has been gradually getting worse. It may prove helpful if I mention that I was having problems getting the heater in the car to work. It would be hot and then go to luke warm, nearly cool. Like I said though, I'm leaning towards hose but any insight would be extremely helpful. It seemed to be coming from the general vicinity as where the thermostat housing would be.
You'll need to dry the car out and either get a pressure tester or run it until it warms up and builds coolant pressure, then look for the leak. It really could be anything - coolant tank, hose connector, thermostat gasket - you need to inspect and verify.
***** It is the coupler in between the t shaped plastic piece that comes from the thermostat housing and the hose coming from the expansion tank. It is completely gone. Thank you for the video though I used it as a reference. Keep up the good work!
Casey Wow, thanks for reporting back. Fortunately that's an easy and inexpensive repair. You could probably even find a universal part if you had to.
Hi there ,I changed my thermostat 6 month ago and I don't have a leek in my thermostat core too, my fan blows air with out heat ,just some ,what could case that ? thank you
+M Malek Clogged heater core or broken AC blend door.
+Mod MINI
+M Malek It's part of box surrounding the heater core The dash has to come out to repair/replace.
+Mod MINI .Thanks ,it was my heater core.
Thanks great video. Can you explain the air bleeding process please? Thanks a lot!
Add coolant and crack the two bleed screws until air no longer comes out. Get car warm to move fluid around, and with cap installed, very carefully crack again and let air escape. If hot air is not blowing out heater core after a test drive, repeat.
i have a coolant leak coming from my r53 water seems to be running done the side of the trans pretty sure its the thermostat housing picked up a new aluminum kit to replace the plastic one sound right to you?
Do you need to disconnect the battery before disconnecting the ECU ? Advice hugely appreciated.
Good idea to do so.
I have an '06 S convertible that runs fine, maintains proper coolant levels (no leaks), has heat that works fine. But as soon as I start the engine, the fan comes on and keeps running. Not getting any error codes or SES lights. The condition seems to have started around 100k. Thermostat hasn't been replaced yet. Is it time to do that, or do you think it may be something else? Thanks for the video's and helpful comments / tips!
Might be temperature sensor (on the side of the head next to the thermostat).
Thanks. I'll put a meter to it and see what it reads.
You do not need it. Waste a bit of Gas, but NEVER have to worry about it again. If you live in Hot / Warm Weather, take it out and you can thank me later !!!
Incorrect. Engine running at incorrect temperature results in moisture buildup inside the engine.
If I remove my air box, snorkel, and move wires out of the way. Would I be able to visibly see if my thermostat housing is the culprit for my leaking coolant?
Don't even need to remove anything, just look for wet spot or greenish white crust around the thermostat housing.
Thanx. You live in pa by chance?
great vid and brilliant detail... i suspect that my wife's 2006 has a possibly blocked or partially blocked rad,, what are your vies on using rad flush or similar please...
regards don
I have a 2005 R52 base model Convertible, I'm looking for a CVT flush Video with new filter and your suggested fluid . Other items i'm interested in such as undercarriage parts replacement,Bushings, shocks front and rear. and misc. electronic troubleshooting such as currently my a/c fluctuates during operation, blows hot and then blows cold. Your collection of Videos are quite informative and I like that, not much pre project dialog, your more direct to the tech, one question though Have you ever felt unsafe under the car with only jack stands holding the car up? Thanks Dan
A lot of work for thermostat change.
My water temperature does not go up, what it can be even exept thermo....?
Hugo Boss Thermostat or thermostat.
OK thanks
Boy I wish I could get some parts off that mini hard to find the indie blue
Excellent. I just bought an 08, are any oil change places aware of mini's as well as they know say...ford or chevy? I want a antifreeze flush because at an idle sitting for minutes it gets hot tho I drove 60 miles at 70 and it stayed perfect temperature. and I heard GTX castrol is recomended or used more in preference to mini's in oil changes. Is this true?
Should the battery be disconnected when unplugging ecu?
The instructions state that the R53 has 6 liters of cooling system. I managed to drain only 2 liters. I removed the hose at the bottom of the radiator, opened the expansion tank cap, the vent on the hose at the radiator, and the vent on the thermostat housing. I also turned on the ignition (without starting the engine) and gave the heating to HI and the fan to 1. I also blown 1 bar (15 PSI) with compressed air. I was blowing through the breather on the hose above the radiator. Maybe you had to blow through the expansion tank? There is a video on RUclips of a guy blowing a hose, probably from a heater, but getting to this hose requires disassembling the air box with the computer, so I gave up. About 2.5 liters entered during the filling.
How do I drain more fluid?
I doubt there are six liters even if the engine is completely dry. There is a plug on back of engine but there will always be trapped fluid so the only way to completely replace is to drain and fill multiple times, but I doubt that's necessary unless you had oil water mix
hi at the minute 955 what is that connector for? comes up from the oxygen sensor ?
Hi I have a 2002 Mini Cooper s the fan doesn’t turn off and didn’t after a whole day and drained my battery what should I replace please help
Stuck relay maybe.
Hi me again mod.
My mini does not blow hot air into the cab. I changed the thermostat that didn’t do it then I checked the water pump and that was fine. I’m suspecting a clogged heater core (matrix) what’s your thoughts. Cheers.
Either clogged from sedimentation or air is trapped in the core.
Man great video sure as hell helped me out!! Just wondering how long the service engine would stay on if the thermostat was the only problem?
I don't know for certain, but I suspect a code would clear within a week, if you don't clear it yourself.
Hello, I have a 2003 Mini Cooper that doesn’t blow cold or hot air. I can change the settings but no effect on blowing air. What could be the issue?
Blend door motor could be broken
This is so helpful! Thank you. My engine fan is having issues and not turning off. Last time this happened it was a busted thermostat. I feel like its that again. Especially since my oil cap was leaking right onto the housing. Reasonable conclusion?
+Jennaca Skye Check the temperature sending unit. If the sending unit is bad or wire is disconnected, it will default to a 'high' reading and fan will not turn off.
I will thank you! Your videos are the best out there. Thank you so much for making them :)
Is that the ECT? I have a 03 mcs mk1, so the MAP?
+Jennaca Skye I don't know what an ECT is. The coolant temperature sensor is below and behind the thermostat and MAP sensor. It is screwed into the side of the head. Very hard to see. It is just above the heater core line that runs from the water pump, below the thermostat housing, and toward the firewall.
Coolant reservoir just burst in half followed by an atomic cloud of water/coolant lasting for 15 minutes. THe temp guage inside the car did not detect the engine overheating until after the explosion. Any ideas? please help.
Han ozdemir There should be no lasting damage if you stopped when you saw the coolant/steam and/or stopped immediately upon seeing the gauge go up.
Thanks for your awesome videos! They are incredibly helpful. I own an 03 MCS and a 06 MCS. The 03 is overheating only when idling with the AC on. Once it overheats, the coolant bubbles out of the middle of the overflow tank... kind of like through a seam on the front! To start with, I drove the car and got it warmed up. It drove without a problem. Then I parked it and let it idle and it did not overheat. I did check to see if the electric fan was going after I drove it and while it was idling parked and the fan was NOT on. After that, I kept it idling and turned on the AC and after a short while it began to overheat and bubble out of the tank. Still, the fan did NOT go on. My questions: Is the fan not going on a sign of a stuck thermostat? When overheating is it normal to bubble out of the tank like that? I'm trying to determine just what I need to replace before doing so unnecessarily.
Hey mod mini i just replaced my thermostat because my coolant tank was over flowing and i replaced the cap, i dont think its the head gasket as i dont see any smoke, oil looks brand new and theres no loss of power. Is there a possible air bubble in the system that would cause it to overheat and the expansion tank to overflow thru the cap?
Sounds like head gasket but I'd have to look at the car to know for sure.
Thank 🙏👊
Is the thermostat corroding a common thing if only water has been used instead of engine coolant?
You should NEVER use just water in a cooling system! Coolant, in addition to reducing the freezing point and increasing the boiling point of water alone, contains corrosion inhibitors for this very reason. It also lubricates the water pump impeller shaft. You will do lasting damage to not just the thermostat but also aluminum components such as radiator and cylinder head.
The one exception is racing. Some racing organizations require water only for safety reasons (it's less slippery and evaporates quickly when spilled).
Fantastic videos i have watched nearly all of them and they have been incredibly helpful. I had a question tho and was hoping you could help. I recently purchased an 02 s jcw and the previous owner was sketchy and it now appears to be leaking coolant but i am having trouble finding the source. It seems to be coming down the left side of the engine but i have found drips on the back and right as well. It isn't a huge amount of coolant but I'm worried it might be a water pump or something big. Any tips or places to check are greatly appreciated. ( by left side i mean the side you would see from the steering wheel not looking at it from the front.)
Normal sources are coolant expansion tank or thermostat gasket, water pump inlet o-ring or the water pump itself. On 2002-2003 cars, the top radiator inlet can also be a leak source. Get a good flashlight and poke around.
@@ModMINI The top radiator inlet is where one of the leaks in my car is coming from. the 3 way (very wet and dripping) and 4 way (moist). Any suggestions on replacing these? cant to the clips on half, so i assume pulling the whole coolant hose assembly is needed to do so... Tips and tricks greatly appreciated.
Slack3rDav3 you just replace them.
Hi nice work very informative, any ideas on a rough idle now and again after full ignition pack installed? ive heard it could be the map sensor or along them lines, Stay safe
Check for vacuum leaks.
@@ModMINI thanks i will check, i will change the fuel filter as well (130k miles) after watching your vid
Wow you sound like a guy I follow on kilbot, darc vigilant hehe
Would running a bead of red instant gasket be overkill when putting the housing back together?
Not necessary.
Mod MINI perfect! Thanks for coming back to me, and for the time and effort put into making these videos!
@@wetheunseen7675 - You live in Hot / Warm Weather? You do not need the Thermostat. Waste a bit of Gas on start up, but NEVER have to worry about it again. If you live in Hot / Warm Weather, take it out completely and you can thank me later !!!
Jordan Bronson I wish bro. I’m in the UK, so definitely need it! Replaced and all has been fine now.
@@wetheunseen7675 - Oh !!! Yea in the UK, you will need your Heat :((((((.
Hi my 03 MCS has been leaking coolant quite regularly for a couple weeks now I have been adding the coolant but it got hot today. reservoir was bone dry. mechanic at the local Euro shop said it's typical for minis to leak at the flange. Is the flange an easy replacement and do the flange and thermostat go hand-in-hand when they're replaced?
+Linda W. What flange? Usual leak locations are thermostat gasket, reservoir tank itself and the water pump. Sometimes the inlet / outlet pipes to the radiator leak on the 2002-2003 cars but the other leaks are much more common.
+Mod MINI Thanks for the quick reply!! I've been watching your videos...
I spoke with a local mechanic and he mentioned a flange attached to the water pump...but clearly your input makes sense after looking closer, we noticed the radiator had moisture on the front and realized the drip was trickling down to the ground in that area and has gotten worse over the last 2 days. So, you're probably correct with the radiator or hoses. I had to leave it to the educated, I cant drive it down the I5 or 805 leaking coolant! THANKS for posting your very informative vids...wish you were closer I'd want my itty-bitty Mini in your care! keep posting!
+Linda W. Ah, you mean the water pump to block flange. Yes that does sometimes leak - it is replaced at the same time as water pump. Most cars I've looked at these days it's been the water pump that is leaking. It leaves coolant scum along the front side of the block and drips down from the splash shield under the car at roughly the middle front.
Is the coolant temperature sensor next to the housing on the underside? I think I saw it in the vid just want to make sure. I'm replacing mine soon just need to know where exactly it is.
OmegaZero1242 Coolant temp sensor is near the back of the head close to the bottom where it meets the cylinder block. Use a 19mm wrench or maybe a deep drive socket to remove.
awesome, thanks
Cuanto tiempo se tarda?? Maximo una hora??
Hey, I changed my thermostat hoousing now because coolant was runnning out even when the car wasn´t on. So I changed the housing, the thermostat and the gasket. Before starting I filled the reservoir up as you said. On my first round after 5km the heat goes up pretty quickly and the heater won´t work at all. So no heat in the car only cold. I tried this several times but it stays like this. Do you have an idea what went wrong? Is it maybe the waterpump? It´s a R50 2002 116PS. Cheers
You have air pockets and need to add coolant or the belt is broken.
Amazing video. Do I have to disconnect the battery? I have a pending code P0128. And i have to do the inspection this month. I don’t want to go through the painful drive cycle. Again by removing the ecu will it clear the drive cycle?
My girlfriend's 2006 Mini Cooper S Hatch is having an overheating problem. It overheats when idling. But while moving it is dead center. After a couple hours of it being off when I turn it back it's at the center still. Is this a thermostat problem? I've checked coolant levels and they seem normal. I can hear the radiator fan kick on when it starts to climb towards the red.
Overheating can be caused by any of the following.
1. Thermostat is not open or is lazy
2. Radiator is clogged
3. Fan is not coming on
4. Low on water
5. Belt is broken and water pump not spinning
If overheating only when idle, and you know the fan is running on HIGH mode, then probably radiator is clogged or the thermostat is not opening all the way.
Okay, then how would I proceed in checking those two things, and which is more frequent? Thanks for the fast reply. I'm sure a thousand people have asked you these same questions.
Would you advise against changing the thermostat myself? I am not mechanically illiterate and the video made it seem pretty simple.
T0mpkinz Thermostat: replace
Radiator: Remove one of the hoses and put a scope camera in there and see if it's clogged, or replace
Hey boss, I hope you still read your comments. My R 53 has a leak. It is a clear odorless lightly viscous mystery fluid coming from the front. Just underneath the engine block. Any suggestions? I have scoured, mini forums and Reddit for the answer, all of which provided nothing.
Supercharger fluid?
probably power steering fluid but take some samples and compare.
What would cause the temp to move from half way to flick straight to the red Switch car off and on and it's back to half Cooper s 2002
Bad fan, bad thermostat, low coolant.
***** Hello. I've been having a leaking problem with mt '05 R50. Right below in between the reservoir tank and the engine. Just under where you put your put your hands at 3:46 in the video. Every time i drive it. I can see a little puddle forming down there and i cant pinpoint where the leak is coming from exactly. Based on your experience, any idea what it might be?
Esteban Lozada Leaks on the back of engine are usually thermostat gasket. The other possibilities back there are oil cooler or heater core hoses.
Thank you. ***** you never let me down!!
Would you recommend replacing the thermostat housing while replacing the thermostat? Is it a common failure item?
I've never seen one fail. Inspect closely and reuse if no sign of cracks.
My thermostat is fine, but the plastico fantastico failed. After hearing up, and cooling down for so many years the thing does get brittle and cracked. If you are in it doing the job, replace it.
would this affect the starting of the car? i have what i think is thermostat problems. but if the car is left off for around 6-8 hours it has trouble starting after that the fans on almost all the time any ideas please?
Jack Paget It would not affect car starting but over time it could cause oil sludge buildup if car can't run at correct operating temperature and it is not fixed for a long time.
I've been experiencing very poor fuel economy numbers ever since I bought my r53. I can't seem to do better than 24 mpg even when I'm very conservative, shifting around 2.5k. could this be my issue? what other things could cause this? I already replaced my air filter and spark plugs.
That's honestly probably pretty normal for the car. You won't get much better than that unless you are on a 4 hour drive on the interstate with no traffic.
@@ModMINI What about 19,5 mpg with normal driving? Should I change lambda sensor?
I have just bought a Mini Cooper 2004 1.6 petrol, it's started to overheat and dumped all of its coolant. After bleeding the cooling system it seemed okay although after taking it for another drive I came home parked up and it's dumped something else all over my drive, not oil or coolant as these were both okay. Now coming out this morning and running it for 10 minutes the temp gauge got to 90degress while sitting idly (I have the chrono package so normal running temp) but then all of sudden I see smoke coming out of the bonnet again, so I switch it all off and have left it. Any advice?
Could be blown head gasket.
hi I've got a problem with my cooper s engine warms up on idle but when driven the needle drops to about 25 percent the thermostat got changed about a year ago so not sure what going on with it, what do you think?
Bad thermostat or it's in backward ...?
+Mod Mini what are your thoughts on 180 F thermostat for the mini R53?
Why? Engine is designed to operate at 194F. Why override that?
Older video, but Im sure you've got an idea. Same model, just a 2004 Cooper S. So the level of my coolant reservoir goes down slightly every now and then (not much, but you can notice it when taking a look). Ive replaced the coolant tank already, because it had a crack in the middle. Now here comes the tricky part. The temperature inside my car goes up when I turn the heat (not AC) on. This should mean my thermostat works properly right? I dont see any leaks under the car where its parked, should be noticeable easily on sand. Could it still be the thermostat housing itself?
You probably have a leak somewhere, common locations are water pump or thermostat housing. It's a slow leak so it likely only leaks when system is under pressure and evaporates off side of the block before it hits the ground. I don't understand why you mention temperature going up when heat is turned on. That's what it's supposed to do.
It was a leak from the thermostat (the gasket was bad), quick and cheap fix. When the car was running it pressed the fluid out on the upper part, luckily the housing was still good cause I couldnt get the hoses off.
hi there so I had a question my mini recently had a dead battery so jumpered it and got it charge and I took it for a spin and after a minute and half it died on idk if my battery is going bad or what but when I got out and opened my hood I saw on my coolant reservoir tank started bubbling and I heard this clicking noise even after my car was dead any opinion what's going on
The Mini is extremely sensitive to low battery. A low battery will cause all kind of crazy symptoms. Start with replacing the battery if you haven't already. Has it run hot at all?
Hi Mod MINI.
Do you have an essential tool list for this? I am about to attempt it and wonder if there any tools you suggest will make my life easier.
Thanks
For a thermostat? You pretty much only need a 10mm socket, short extension, Torx T30, Allen/hex 3mm I believe. Not much else.
Thanks for that, I invested in a bent nose set of pliers which helped with the hoses.
can the coolant reservoir blow up if there's something wrong with the thermostat. like if it doesn't open?
No. Only if the reservoir cap does not open, which I've never seen. On the 2002-2003 cars, the reservoir can crack down the middle due to a design flaw, however. It's not hard to install a replacement reservoir.
what is coolant plz ,,,,i only ever used water,,,how doese it differ is it important,,thank you in advance
+singtracks en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coolant