Accessing controller board in Miele Dishwasher G2830
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- I wanted to access the controller board/computer on my Miele dishwasher to see if junk could have gotten to the board and be causing the F14 / F24 codes (see my other video: • F24 fault code with Mi... )
I couldn’t find any videos on how to do this so here is my attempt at getting at the board. Note that I didn’t follow through and removed the entire board off since it looked in really clean condition. I kind of chickened out when attempting to remove the connectors from the PCB because it snapped a tab when attempting to unplug a connector.
If someone knows how to safely unplug the connectors, please let me know
UPDATE: see video where my issue is fixed: • Fixing F14 and F24 Fau...
Brilliant. Thank you so much. Now its not like "looking for a needle in a haystack". Thanks again.
@@beecee1235 my pleasure. Please be advised that this controller board diagram didn’t really help me root cause my problem. The error codes indicated it was a controller problem and I went there first but at the end of the day, it was a faulty part sending bad signals to the board.
What issue are you trying to fix?
@@rogerscubadiver The diagram you showed, and other info from other videos helped. It was a bad pressure switsh. The wiring checked out ok. My wiring was connected to pins 1 and 2 of ST5. Same pressure switch, Different control board model. Switch on order. Thanks again.
The ELPW board often gets stuck to the bitumen coating. The rast connectors hold onto the plugs with tabs and they are shaped so only the correct plug will fit. It pays to check the connection from the pressure switch to this board. Also check that the impeller of the pump is not blocked so it is able to build sufficient pressure to activate the pressure switch.
Hi rmariu. Thanks for replying and helping.
I am going crazy with this issue and don’t like to give up so your tips are much appreciated.
The reason I was trying to get to the board was to see if there was some junk causing a short circuit that could explain my F24s and F14s but once I got to the circuit board, I couldn’t figure out how to remove the connectors. You can see the tab for ST18 (last one on the right) doesn’t latch anymore because I bent it too much weaning the plastic. After that attempt, I backed off.
To me, it is the logical area to examine if I am to believe the explanation of how an F24 is recorded.
The documentation (shown here ruclips.net/video/Df9xB7G2TFg/видео.html) says that the F24 will be thrown after 18 seconds post start if a voltage is recorded on the board leads when the coil is not energized. I have verified the coil is not stuck (see video) so how else could the board measure 120V if not due to some short? I figured it would be in the ST6 connector (according to the diagram I found inside the washer).
Now, back to your suggestions, how can I check if the impaler is jammed? Do I need to take the pump apart?
My case is weird because I get a mix of codes. 99% is F24 at the 18 second mark but if I try from one day to the next, it will pass the 18 second test and about 1.5 mins in, it will throw an F14. After that F14, it will return to F24 until I let the DW sit there for more than 24 hours. That is the only pattern I have detected to far.
@@rogerscubadiver I would use the service mode to fill the dishwasher (v04) and then v06 which is the pump test. This is under the component test. If the dishwasher doesn’t have enough water then it won’t build pressure. To inspect the pump, you do need to remove it but you can peek down the end. I had one which had f24 because of corrosion at the plug to the main board. Don’t give up. I’ll look at the videos on this phone and get back to you
@@rmariu thank you! Enjoy your holidays
Also, looking at the other video, the fault list has f11, f14 and f24. If the pump is clear I would be inclined to look at the pressure switch which is on the side of the pump.
@@rmariu the F11 I fixed by replacing the non-return valve whose o-rings had deteriorated. But you are right, I’m inclined to replace the pressure switch next since it has two codes which could point to it