I ordered a selection of beads. installed them on all of my opener wires and 8 foot light fixture wires. Made absolutely no difference at all. I thought it was going to be and easy fix.... hahahhaaa on me!!! First tried a single wire antenna extension, that didn't work at all... had to solder and run a coax cable out past the door opener, put a single 18" 1/2 wave wire on the end of the coax cable and ground the outside of the coax wire to house steel exterior. I soldered to the antenna wire and stuffed it up into the opener casing. With the lights on it now works about one car length, with the lights off it works out to about 250 feet!!! something is better than nothing...
My wife grows fancy succulents with a grow light from HLG. It has what I can only assume is a ferrite bead on the power cable coming into its driver. Would it help to add one on the cable leaving the driver toward the LED board?
Greetings from California. 0414’20/0623hrs. Sir, thank you for you sincere endeavor to explain the RF interference and how to reduce and or nullify it. You took such pains to climb the step stool, precariously handle the Camera in one hand and perform dangerous maneuvers like plugging the AC cord etc etc.. Teaching is an Art and you have it. Stay safe and 73s.
Thanks for the video, Paul! I grew up in Medway, and used to love going to Midwest Surplus. I't one of the things I miss about living in Ohio. I'll have to see about grabbing some of these filters for my shop. Haven't been able to get a radio signal since I installed my LED lights.
As a line of site goes, one of these lights is in-between an indoor shop camera & the sales area of a small engine repair shop head unit. All the other cameras work fine. They don't make a repeater for these cameras. They're wireless @2.4Ghz. They make an extended antenna for the cameras to possibly mount it outside. Should I try other lights to see if the shop cameras come back? Before they would all work with the bay doors open.
Keeping the filter as close to the source of the noise, the power supply in the lights in this case is important. The electric wiring can act like an antenna. So your effect would be possibly negated completely if you had any length of wire between the plug and the light itself.
We have issues with LED lights where they blow bulbs in the rest of the garage, same garage it burned up a WiFi switch for outside lights same garage plugged in an electronic soldering tool it immediately started smokin. Different garage power flickered from storm blowed 4 different led bulbs that was on same time the garage LEDs was on. Some of these blowed issues not even on same leg.
weird thing with mine. if i plug in an extension cord from my house the lights do not flicker. however if i run them off of my work shop panel they flicker badly. im going to try and ferrite everything. the line run is very long also so im pretty sure thats my problem i cannot even hook up my 50 amp gfci due to the long run as it seems to be picking up on the interference and tripping unloaded.its a head scratcher for sure.
I have the same problem, even tried 3 different manufactures but still get the interference. I wish you included a link on where to get the filters you are using.
Sad that the presenter doesn't give the source...After getting through all of the camera shaking I did get a valid part # Shurter 5500.2051....the 5500.2502 is more popular. Digikey might have them....www.schurter.com/en/datasheet/FSS
Schurter Inc. 5500.2224 DC EMC/EMI Line Filter 10A AC Single Stage Quick Connect www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/schurter-inc/5500.2224/486-1403-ND/1852038
There is a good chance that you could place one or more capacitors in parallel with the lights and achieve a similar outcome for less. Or ferrite choke(s). These should be placed as close to the source of interference (LED driver circuit) as possible will usually be most effective. Ultimately you ate trying to compensate for inadequate noise suppression in the original design (or to replace/supplement inferior parts used in production that do not perform as well as the units built and tested for the original certification)
That is right and sort of the point of the video. I just found out about part 18 certification for noise. We all should demand more of that from the manufacturers.
What’s “dirty” about it? Is it mucking up the light itself or everything else electrical in the room? Is it only mucking up things for audio (“~50db in the HF range”) or all electronics?
I have 4 12v led srtips I run off a car battery in a shed. They seem to cause really bad power supply distortion leading to the lights flickering and noise generated from internal circuitry. Simple solution was just to place a high value capacitor over the battery. Cost next to nothing for a 12v DC circuit
Housing is metal on this one so it’s not a problem. However, a plastic one would present problems I believe tension filters to keep wiring from acting an antenna.
I just noticed this on my shop lights. they totally blow out my Lo-VHF signal (channel 4) where I live. I have my over the air cable connected to a booster. I'm going to try to put a choke on my booster to see if it makes a difference. Probably wrecking my WIFI as well!
I'm having similar issues with LEDs and my Antenna in the attic reception. I noticed that Phillips has some standard bulb type LEDs that are rated for FCC rule 15. Some are not. I'll get some, give it a try and report back.
Likely so. The trouble is the power cord is acting like an antenna. I have toyed with the Idea of converting to a common Filtered DC supply for them all, These lights use about 60 volts out of the internal power supply and distributing that DC around to all of them.
The noise is coming from the signals leaking out of the switchmode power supply. So yes, The AC with Hot Neutral and Ground should have the filter applied.
I get my over the air HD TV signal to my home via an antennae I installed in the attic. I recently changed our vanity over-the-mirror light fixtures in both girls' bathrooms and master bath from CFL bulbs to LED. Now when I turn on the bathroom light switch my TV signal gets bad interference or goes out altogether. I'm wondering if anyone has a solution for that circumstance. It drives us crazy. The bulbs we bought are from Feit and have a FCC part 15 rating (assuming it is legit). I've also read that FCC part 18 bulbs give off less interference but am having a hard time finding. I went up to Lowe's and talked to their electrical expert and he has never heard of this situation or part 18 FCC rating before. Would love any possible solutions to my problem.
I was unfamiliar with FCC part 18, Thanks. And we should demand that the FCC and Legislators in the USA (and everywhere) demand action. I would return the product as defective and request a refund. If enough do that fcc part 18 certification would becomae a sales point.
Great, now how do I get Hooters a 100 feet from me to put these on their parking lot LED lights, another thing its stronger on ch 15A then surges on the other channels
I would hope they do because if they do more people will know this and at least someone will care for how much this things radiate and maybe then manufacturer will shield this interference away
@@DXingSlovenija I do know that led bulbs in my car door opener make the receiver very insensitive and when I went back to incandescent bulbs the problem resolved. That opener operates in the 300 MHz range.
we have dirty LED lights at our local radio club venue S9+20db of noise accross the whole HF band and up onto 6m :( we are searching for a fix as well this is in the UK by the way so the European ones may be just as bad if not worse.
I have the same issue. Was happy to find your video but it's way too long. You don't explain how to connect the filter which to a knowledgeable like yourself is simple but to someone like me is a mystery.
You need to understand electrical and how it works to even begin to mess with 120 or 240 volts. It can and will kill you if you let it. You should learn the electrical basics before ever attempting to do something like this. Thanks for watching.
I ordered a selection of beads. installed them on all of my opener wires and 8 foot light fixture wires. Made absolutely no difference at all. I thought it was going to be and easy fix.... hahahhaaa on me!!! First tried a single wire antenna extension, that didn't work at all... had to solder and run a coax cable out past the door opener, put a single 18" 1/2 wave wire on the end of the coax cable and ground the outside of the coax wire to house steel exterior. I soldered to the antenna wire and stuffed it up into the opener casing. With the lights on it now works about one car length, with the lights off it works out to about 250 feet!!! something is better than nothing...
Thank you.
I used 2 ferrite beads on a noisy power supply and it made a real difference. 2 loops through each bead. ( type 31 mix).
Nice.
Clamp-on ferrite bead chokes are effective too. Put them on the wires where they exit the power-supply (called a 'driver' in the LEDs industry).
My wife grows fancy succulents with a grow light from HLG. It has what I can only assume is a ferrite bead on the power cable coming into its driver. Would it help to add one on the cable leaving the driver toward the LED board?
Greetings from California. 0414’20/0623hrs. Sir, thank you for you sincere endeavor to explain the RF interference and how to reduce and or nullify it. You took such pains to climb the step stool, precariously handle the Camera in one hand and perform dangerous maneuvers like plugging the AC cord etc etc.. Teaching is an Art and you have it.
Stay safe and 73s.
Thank you for your kind words
Thanks for the video, Paul! I grew up in Medway, and used to love going to Midwest Surplus. I't one of the things I miss about living in Ohio. I'll have to see about grabbing some of these filters for my shop. Haven't been able to get a radio signal since I installed my LED lights.
Good luck and be careful.
Yep
Me too....have 12 8ft units....No Radio
My shop lights wipe out the FM radio! I'm definitely giving this a try!
As a line of site goes, one of these lights is in-between an indoor shop camera & the sales area of a small engine repair shop head unit. All the other cameras work fine. They don't make a repeater for these cameras. They're wireless @2.4Ghz. They make an extended antenna for the cameras to possibly mount it outside. Should I try other lights to see if the shop cameras come back? Before they would all work with the bay doors open.
Thanks for the EMI filter video, my question is, can the filter be wired into the feed wire(OUTLET) that powers the led lights?
Keeping the filter as close to the source of the noise, the power supply in the lights in this case is important. The electric wiring can act like an antenna. So your effect would be possibly negated completely if you had any length of wire between the plug and the light itself.
We have issues with LED lights where they blow bulbs in the rest of the garage, same garage it burned up a WiFi switch for outside lights same garage plugged in an electronic soldering tool it immediately started smokin. Different garage power flickered from storm blowed 4 different led bulbs that was on same time the garage LEDs was on. Some of these blowed issues not even on same leg.
weird thing with mine. if i plug in an extension cord from my house the lights do not flicker. however if i run them off of my work shop panel they flicker badly. im going to try and ferrite everything. the line run is very long also so im pretty sure thats my problem i cannot even hook up my 50 amp gfci due to the long run as it seems to be picking up on the interference and tripping unloaded.its a head scratcher for sure.
You might measure your line voltage. It could’ve dropped below a threshold point for the power supply inside.
I have the same problem, even tried 3 different manufactures but still get the interference. I wish you included a link on where to get the filters you are using.
Sad that the presenter doesn't give the source...After getting through all of the camera shaking I did get a valid part # Shurter 5500.2051....the 5500.2502 is more popular. Digikey might have them....www.schurter.com/en/datasheet/FSS
Schurter Inc. 5500.2224
DC EMC/EMI Line Filter 10A AC Single Stage Quick Connect
www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/schurter-inc/5500.2224/486-1403-ND/1852038
@@BryanHerbert Yea the one we all need is for 120V not Dc current.
Wow. No idea how that happened. The filter I was looking at said 120V.
These should also work and don't cost as much: www.digikey.com/en/product-highlight/w/wurth-electronics/we-clfs-series-line-filters
There is a good chance that you could place one or more capacitors in parallel with the lights and achieve a similar outcome for less. Or ferrite choke(s). These should be placed as close to the source of interference (LED driver circuit) as possible will usually be most effective.
Ultimately you ate trying to compensate for inadequate noise suppression in the original design (or to replace/supplement inferior parts used in production that do not perform as well as the units built and tested for the original certification)
That is right and sort of the point of the video. I just found out about part 18 certification for noise. We all should demand more of that from the manufacturers.
What’s “dirty” about it? Is it mucking up the light itself or everything else electrical in the room? Is it only mucking up things for audio (“~50db in the HF range”) or all electronics?
It was generating broad band RF noise in the MW, and HF spectrum. This is typically from poorly(cheaply) designed power supplies.
So you cut the light cord, wired some connectors for the filter on the exposed ends, and connected the filter to those, correct?
That is what I did. But unless you are qualified in electrical work. Seek assistance to make sure you are not violating safety and local ordinances.
I have 4 12v led srtips I run off a car battery in a shed. They seem to cause really bad power supply distortion leading to the lights flickering and noise generated from internal circuitry. Simple solution was just to place a high value capacitor over the battery. Cost next to nothing for a 12v DC circuit
But what about the rf that comes from the light/housing itself? Especially in the case when the housing is plastic.
Housing is metal on this one so it’s not a problem. However, a plastic one would present problems I believe tension filters to keep wiring from acting an antenna.
I just noticed this on my shop lights. they totally blow out my Lo-VHF signal (channel 4) where I live. I have my over the air cable connected to a booster. I'm going to try to put a choke on my booster to see if it makes a difference. Probably wrecking my WIFI as well!
Awesome video! Been looking for this fix!!
Me Too Thank You
I also need some they cost 32 dollars where can I buy them for 1.25
I got mine at Midwest Surplus in Fairborn Ohio
I'm having similar issues with LEDs and my Antenna in the attic reception. I noticed that Phillips has some standard bulb type LEDs that are rated for FCC rule 15. Some are not. I'll get some, give it a try and report back.
Be curious to see how they do
I have 4 strings of LED over the car bays would i need to filter all 4
Likely so. The trouble is the power cord is acting like an antenna. I have toyed with the Idea of converting to a common Filtered DC supply for them all, These lights use about 60 volts out of the internal power supply and distributing that DC around to all of them.
@@paulk8io445 if the power cord is acting as an antenna couldn’t you add shielding to the power cord? Thx
tks Paul, try and keep the camera still for a sec or 2 remember , youtube frame rates is a bitch
This was a tough one with limited resources and experience. Just me and my iPhone. Thanks
What about for 12v automotive LEDs?
Nice! Now is there any way to fix the problem with the interference in a cb radio from led headlights..???
so what do they offer for led threaded lights??? the ones that are like 40000 lummens
I have 4 8' led lights, I put the filter before the lights? The side with 3 leads are hot, neutral and ground?
The noise is coming from the signals leaking out of the switchmode power supply. So yes, The AC with Hot Neutral and Ground should have the filter applied.
I would also be interested in buying some of the filters from you if you would be interested in picking some up and selling them
I do not sell them, Midwest surplus in Fairborn Ohio is where I got mine.
I get my over the air HD TV signal to my home via an antennae I installed in the attic. I recently changed our vanity over-the-mirror light fixtures in both girls' bathrooms and master bath from CFL bulbs to LED. Now when I turn on the bathroom light switch my TV signal gets bad interference or goes out altogether. I'm wondering if anyone has a solution for that circumstance. It drives us crazy. The bulbs we bought are from Feit and have a FCC part 15 rating (assuming it is legit). I've also read that FCC part 18 bulbs give off less interference but am having a hard time finding. I went up to Lowe's and talked to their electrical expert and he has never heard of this situation or part 18 FCC rating before. Would love any possible solutions to my problem.
I was unfamiliar with FCC part 18, Thanks. And we should demand that the FCC and Legislators in the USA (and everywhere) demand action. I would return the product as defective and request a refund. If enough do that fcc part 18 certification would becomae a sales point.
LOL. Lowes... electrical expert... That's a good chuckle right there.
Great, now how do I get Hooters a 100 feet from me to put these on their parking lot LED lights, another thing its stronger on ch 15A then surges on the other channels
call your local power company, many have rfi teams to resolved these issues
@@paulk8io445 thanks
Could a house full of LEDs cause enough interference to prevent "smart" home devices from pairing and connecting to things like Google Home?
I would hope not, The higher frequencies are more immune to this type of interference.
I would hope they do because if they do more people will know this and at least someone will care for how much this things radiate and maybe then manufacturer will shield this interference away
@@DXingSlovenija I do know that led bulbs in my car door opener make the receiver very insensitive and when I went back to incandescent bulbs the problem resolved. That opener operates in the 300 MHz range.
Children school need this
we have dirty LED lights at our local radio club venue S9+20db of noise accross the whole HF band and up onto 6m :( we are searching for a fix as well this is in the UK by the way so the European ones may be just as bad if not worse.
Sorry to hear that but the scourge of inadequate designs everywhere are rampant, bigclive.com proves that regularly on his channel.
I have the same problem !
sorry 1.95
They're not $1.95 anymore 😀
I have the same issue. Was happy to find your video but it's way too long. You don't explain how to connect the filter which to a knowledgeable like yourself is simple but to someone like me is a mystery.
You need to understand electrical and how it works to even begin to mess with 120 or 240 volts. It can and will kill you if you let it. You should learn the electrical basics before ever attempting to do something like this. Thanks for watching.