Growing 'Adagio' Arugula with a Suspended Pot, Non Circulating Hydroponic Kratky Method
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- Опубликовано: 22 фев 2019
- Two small tanks of 'Adagio' arugula were grown by a suspended pot, non-circulating hydroponic (Kratky) method. Arugula was harvested at 6 weeks after transplanting. Fresh weight yields averaged 49 g/net pot in the tank with one plant/net pot and 81 g/net pot in the tank where 6 net pots had 2 plants and two net pots had one plant.
There was considerable variation among plants, and it was suggested that increased uniformity could be achieved by selecting and transplanting more uniform seedlings.
Electrical power was not needed and pumps or other mechanical devices were not needed to grow these arugula plants.
Arugula has a nutty, pungent, peppery, spicy flavor and can add zing and a refreshing taste to various dishes without being overbearing. The flavor of this 'Adagio' arugula was somewhere between mild and strong. 
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09:05 "Adagio refers to [...] my harvesting speed". Hilarious. Thank you very much; growing my own food (as much as I can in my small apartment) has changed my life!
Have plastic totes ready to experiment. Thank you Dr. Kratky you're a savior to a hungry world!
I love to hear you talking, I can only imagine how much I would have enjoyed you as one of my Professors, you are very enthusiastic!
I will never tire of listening to you Dr. Kratky. You should get a Nobel Prize for teaching this method to grow food!
Thank you, Ingrid!
Thank you Dr Kratky, gonna try my first hydroponics using your method!
I thoroughly enjoyed seeing you grow Jules Janick's 'Adagio' arugula using non-circulating hydroponics. Being a fan of Purdue University and your work, it would be wonderful to see Purdue embrace non-circulating hydroponics as an environmentally friendly growing method with no water pumping or air injection that is used in active hydroponics. There are many gardeners looking for greens that will tolerate warmer conditions and longer growing seasons, especially with a simple gardening approach. Nice job on your video!
Thanks, Matt. I appreciate your support and for being such a strong advocate for simple hydroponic gardening systems which will enable more folks to grow some of their own food!
A very interesting video from the inventor of the system... How amazing is that? I'm so glad to have lived to see the development of the internet, youtube and the Kratky system.
By the way Mr. Jeb Gardener sent me over.
All the best from an old gardener in the UK
Best regards
Steve
I've got to try arugula next. I really like this method of growing hydroponics, so much simpler than other things I've tried & it seems to work better too!
I'm trying your method with cucumbers, doing a test between 2 buckets. the first bucket i adjusted the ph to 5.8 the other i left at my tap waters value at around 7.8 and seeing what difference it makes. That is some nice looking Arugula you grew there.
Forget the net cups and substrate. Grow them right on that window screen!
Jeb, I haven't tried that yet. but it just might work.
Jeb, I haven't tried that yet. but it just might work.
Window screen, the wave of the future... today! :-D I'm going to try that sometime soon, I have a partial roll in the basement.
I realize this comment was from 1 year ago, but I am just preparing to grow this and found this video. How would you recommend going about starting seedlings in order to utilize growing them on the window screen to keep them from falling into the water solution? I'm very interested in learning more about this! Thanks! :D
Beautiful thank you for video....
Thank you for watching!
With 2 plants/ pot, the variation seems to average out? Or some mystery factor at critical threshold in 1 tank? Excellent video, thanks!
While growing arugola in soil, my practice is to cut the leaves above the stem. I used to get new leaves up to 6 months, harvesting every 2 weeks
Economically, best use of the plant. I have a 9'x4' bit of earth against the brick foundation of the house with 4 old windows leaning over the space against the house where year old radicchio is regrowing cut 4x in a year. At present they are large healthy heads of greens which cost 4-$5 /lb at the grocery store. Today I shoveled a large load of snow over this garden which will melt on this sunny day and water the plants. Living in a zone 5 area, it's rewarding to 'cut and come again' during the winter. Happy gardening Mr Ali.
Dr. I have the same issue with standard arugula varieties. I get very random success and failure in the same tanks. I'm thinking it has to do with the fact that the arugula doesn't like a wet crown or at least not for a long time. I will try a tank with the arugula in a deeper pot so it can be drier. I will update you on the results.
I’ve also found the same w them growing in soil. Some grow big and strong and others just don’t at all.
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Kratky method is low-cost however may come with one disadvantage - the salt/nitrate level in the crops can be very high due to the high EC level as the water level drops. happy to be correct if I am wrong.
Im planning to make a bucket system with float valve control for my greenhouse, i have 10liter buckets, so that around 2,64 gallon, would that be enough for the root system? Also what is the best level for sollution by float valve? A few inches from bothem of the bucket?
Plants should grow well in those buckets. One approach is to let the solution lower naturally until the half mark or slightly below the half mark and then maintain that level with a float valve for the duration of the crop. You might experiment with various levels on different crops by placing boards of different thickness under several of the buckets.
Aloha! What was your EC and pH? I can't seem to find a good source of information for ideal EC/pH/Temperature for different crops, especially arugula. I just grew my first batch of arugula labeled as 'slow bolt', which all bolted in about 35 days from transplant. My arugula was quite a bit smaller, I'm wondering if it is the seed variety or maybe my lower grow room temperature (which hovers around 64 degrees). I'm also wondering if the lower temperature accelerated the bolting. Next time I"m going to have 2 plants per net pot to see if I get different results. Thank you for sharing all this information with us!
With the mix that Jeb gardener uses it is a pretty low EC or ppm of around 350ppm as for ph ive been told that a slightly lower ph will help with the absorption of the minerals. most places ive looked have said around 5.8. I'm doing a test right now with cucumbers one with 5.8ph other with my towns ph of 7.8 and it seems to actually be doing better with the 7.8. the correct ph might be plant dependent? not sure.
My EC was about 1.5 mS and pH was in the area of 6.5-7. For temperature data, you might check the temperature of the Hilo airport from Dec.5, 2018 to Jan.23, 2019 as my location is nearby; since the crop was in an open-sided greenhouse, the daytime temperatures were probably a few degrees higher than the airport data. It also might be worthwhile for you to read the HortScience article on 'Adagio' arugula.
@@growkratky5558 Thank you, I just pulled up the article. Here in northern Michigan we're now under a blizzard warning... I'm thinking of going downstairs and starting some more lettuce. Winter up here is much more pleasant with a grow room and fresh veggies!
Excuse me, what about damping off?, i often getting problem since the growing medium continuously absorb water during seedling phase
The seedlings were grown in seedling blocks and we didn't have a damping off problem.
Hi Dr Kratky, thanks for the video. Can you please explain if tank B had the 8-15-36, MgSO4 and also calcium nitrate? Or was it Calcium nitrate only? Why did you choose to do different nutrients in each tank? I'm about to start lettuce in a mason jar and I'm trying to understand how to make a nutrient solution for 1.5L. Thank you!
Stock solutions A (Chemgro 8-15-36 + magnesium sulfate) and B (calcium nitrate) are maintained in separate storage containers because the calcium would react with several components of stock solution A if stored in this concentrated form, but they do not react when they are in the dilute form in the growing tanks. Both growing tanks of arugula were given the Chemgro 8-15-36, magnesium sulfate and calcium nitrate. It might be easier for you to find a hydroponic fertilizer where all the necessary elements are in the same container (their directions will suggest an application rate). These are usually a little more expensive than those which we used, but should be affordable for a small project like you propose.
I notice there was no concern for light exposure with the large gaps between the cubes and the net pots. Do you typically ignore the possibility for algae growth?
Of course this isn't perfect, but it is convenient and usually it doesn't present a problem . It helps to start with at least 2-week-old seedlings which limits the time until the foliage shades the net pots.
I am from Kerala, india where the summer temperature could go up to 45degreeC. What is the maximum nutrient temperature acceptable for direct sun growing?
How to compensate for water losses by evaporation and increase in EC readings?
Grow it in winter
What Might be an advantage to this method for harvesting baby arugula continuously? I'm Currently harvesting my baby arugula in my own medium mix of coco coir, compost and buckwheat hulls in flats.
This method would give a savings on growing medium and provide an automatic watering system. However, I have not compared yields and quality between this method and a medium-based method.
Maybe the breed isn't completely stable yet. Could set some up for going to seed with each other.
Dr. Janick suggests the extreme variation is not due to the seed source which was cross-pollinated. I think it might be useful to use 2 week-old seedlings which are carefully selected to have uniform size. Also, there is a possibility that the front 4 plants were exposed to more intense sunlight due to the angle of the sun, but I'm not sure about that.
As the plant thinks we can't all be the same.
I have a variety of organic Arugula called Eruca vesicaria var. sativa from seeds of change . com, do you think this method would work for this variety as well? I certainly am going to give it a try, but I am curious what effect the variety will have upon the results. I am looking forward to give this a try and will try to remember to post an update once I have some results. In the meantime, I will try to grow a few seeds under grow lights with this method, and perhaps a few more in my small greenhouse that I heat with a small electric heater in winter.
I have a couple of additional questions perhaps you or someone would be able to answer, or perhaps direct me to a reliable source to find the answer. For context, I am in the Midwest on a nearly 20 acre homestead that is very heavily wooded, with around 1-2 acres that our home and garden areas imbedded somewhat deeply within. Our forest, as expected, teems with a very wide and diverse variety of insects and many other pests. This has presented a number of challenges in terms of propagating and managing our vegetable gardens using organic, natural, and sustainable methods, as you can well imagine. My main concern is this insect pest pressure, even though at this time, in January, it is at this time of the year, not presently a concern, but once we come into spring, will become a continuous struggle. For potted plants and row crops, I have used frequent treatments of diluted Neem spray on both outside plants, as well as those in my greenhouse, with only limited success. For a heavy infestation of aphids and whiteflies that unfortunately infiltrated my greenhouse in late fall this past year, I discovered that the Neem was unable to control the insects, (which had been unwittingly introduced from a patio cherry tomato and a couple of young volunteer tomatoes I had brought inside to attempt overwintering, in spite of pre-treatment of both the plants and the soil prior to their transfer inside). I ended up opting to dispose of the plants rather than attempt to save them, due to the likelihood that the insects would transmit disease to other plants in the future. We are constructing a second, larger greenhouse in the coming weeks, where I intend to employ hydroponics to primarily grow brassicas, and will be introducing beneficial lady bugs within to help control aphids should they again become a problem. But this brings me to my question, which is, as one who is new to hydroponics, what if any, organic liquid or other pesticide compounds are the most effective for use with hydroponic systems? Will diluted solutions of Neem oil or other common organic pest/disease control solutions that might drip or leech into water containment result in plant mortality, stunt growth, or cause other issues? What advice or recommendations would you have for this situation, and do you have a website or another trusted source where I could find reliable answers to some of these and other future hydroponics questions I might have, or is there a forum you could direct me to where I am able to submit questions to experts or other experienced hydroponic farmers? I thank you very much for any information you would be willing to share on this, or any suggestions you have to help direct me on the best place to find answers! :)
I am not familiar with your variety, but think there is a good chance that this growing system would work well with it. I would suggest that you contact the Cooperative Extension Service or Master Gardeners in your state for the other information which you seek. Alternatively, you could contact the Extension Specialist in a particular field such as Entomology at your land-grant university college of agriculture.
@@growkratky5558 I will do that. Thank you very much!
Thanks for all the amazing research over the years. I sent you an inquiry email. My email adress is the same as my RUclips name (with no space)