This is the first video i can finally say " YOU NAILED IT", i've been strugglling for months with my anycubic photon mono x because i could not find the right spot for printing small details and your set up worked PERFECTLY, i am trully gratefull for the information you shared and you got a new follower. THANK YOU MAN!
Just want to let you know I've had a printer for about a year and have had alot of trouble I watched this video today and changes stuff around and had a fantastic print thank you so much.
Props to you for advertising at 14 dollar USB microscope instead of a 200 dollar one and taking a cut. I've tried maybe a dozen of them with that basic form factor and they're all pretty much exactly the same.
It’s useless spending a ton of money for such things. I bought mine 2 years ago and never used it, purely because I thought one day it could come in handy
Just a note, holes in the resin exposure test can be perfect if you decrease the "bottom exposure time" in your slicer because this is a small flat object and the printing time is just few minutes (only for this test) and much easier to remove it from the build plate
Awesome video! I feel the same way about my FDM game...after spending so many hours with it, I just "GET IT". I know exactly what to do and what to adjust in order to create a great print. Honestly, I can say that I attribute that to learning from my mistakes and those of others. MORESO the mistakes of others though. RUclips has been an invaluable tool for the 3D printing community. There just aren't enough people out there documenting their workflow and findings in the Resin Printing world and I feel that this is one of the reasons why we aren't seeing as many Resin 3D Makers as we have FDM Makers. I've been sitting with a Photon Mono (and all the fixins' to make printing easy, EX...Wash and cure station...flex plate) but have only managed to get about 1 kg of resin through the vat because troubleshooting isn't quite the same. Once I get a little extra time I will be going through this video and trying what you've recommended. Thank You For The Great Video!
I'm waiting my Photon Mono SE arrives, your information will be very useful to get fast and correct prints, thanks a lot! I'll buy Anycubic resin, it seems very correct resin
Great video! I want to get into resin printing as soon as I move to another apartment with more rooms. This video will really help me get started Keep this amazing content coming 👍🏻
Having the same issue with Elegoo ABS-Like Grey on my Mono X. I've settled on 2.6s exposure with 40mm/min lifting speed but feel like it's a bit overexposed due to detail loss in smaller areas like faces and such.
Just the info I've been looking for! I'm anxious to watch your other videos and continue learning. I have a Photon Mono SE, and have been struggling to get my prints to come out correctly with no "perfect" luck.
Could you please explain why you add 0.4 seconds to your exposure time in regards to the z axis. Whats the theory behind that? How are you coming up with that number and how does the exposure correlate with the z axis in any way? Is not the movement of the build plate the restricting factor? If it only move up 50micron there is only 50 mikron space for the resin to cure along the z axis, no? And how is the z axis not taken into Account in the first print?
thanks, this explains it in terms i can understand. the shortest version is get a checker pattern equal on uncured and super clean print. i use ultrasonic
I agree with you. I'd like to know his uv power level but in theory we can follow the steps he has outlined and dial in our resins. I am going to be running my uv light at 80%. Cheers!
I was thinking that, well uv ligth power goes from 65 to 80% , then yuo can play with it, ie. Print at 65% uv power and 2.0 sec, then compare the same but 80%
Bloody great informative video that was to the point and easy to understand. It is a sub from me and can’t wait for your vid on lift speeds. Top instruction mate thanks.
That's awesome! I got some siraya tech blu, but went through a different process of dialing in the resin. This would have been a lot less costly than the way that i did it. Thanks for the great video!
nice vid ..once you got the exposure right and the swatch is 99 percent mint .skys the limt ram them speeds up 250 plus and they well print ive noticed. then its all about your surpports settings then ..and resin prints take so long if you dont give them a little help lol
I for some reason have gotten better prints with stuff that is 1 second or less using the XP2 test. I am kind of alarmed because every other place suggests around 1.8-2 seconds for the elegoo standard grey. I also was using the 4 layers.
thanks for the Video ! Csn i ask you something? I just bought my first 3D printer (anycubic photon mono x) and the testcube printed fine...then i had just failures...then i tryed some presupported figure and it worked again...the next day everything failed again multiple times...the first layers Stick to the plate just fine but afterwards it connects to the vat....i tried some exposure times already but its always the same result
Hey there I just got Anycubic photon mono x printer I am using Anycubic 3D Printing UV Sensitive Resin basic Grey, I am using lychee slicer any idea where I can find the resin profiles, I am total newbie never owned a 3D printer of any kind.
Thank you so much for this valuable Video. What did you use for initial exposure for the [ Siraya Tech (Navy Grey)] ? I can see you elaborated on layer exposure which helped me a lot as I own the same printer and same resin. However, my concern is the initial exposure.
Just got the Anycubic Photon Mono X and eSun Hard Tough Resin. On Photon Workshop I setup a new Resin Profile for eSun Hard Tough Resin: Layer 0.05 Exposure 2.4 Off-time 4 Bottom exp 30 sec Bottom layers: 4 z-lift: 4mm Saved to stick. While running the file, I went into the Set Up screen on the machine and it shows different values: Exposure: 8 sec Off-time: 1 sec Bottom exp: 60 sec Bottom layers: 3 Looking at the time between lifts it seems that it follows the latter. So I had to adjust on the fly. Even then I'm still seeing the lifts happen about 12 sec in between. I'm totally confused. Please help.
I'm using Photon Mono X for dental application please send the settings for anycubic standard resin . Apart from chittubox is there any other software for mono x model ?
Hello, im in contact with Anycubic trough a ticket, but i think there not understand me. i was wonder if you can do test for me on your Mono X with the Resin XP2 Validation calibration test, do just a dry test, no VAT and no buildplatform attached, just make 1 bottom layer with 30 seconds exposure time and the normal layer at 1.65 seconds. so i was wonder if your printer do just 1 layer at 30 seconds and then starts the second with 1.65 and all other layers too.. my printer just start and arround layer 3 or 4 its reduse the exposuretime and by layer 10 orso it starts with 1.65 seconds... so it is not work the given settings that is in the PWMX file that is made.. i tested the same settings at a Mono and then its do 1 layer at 30 seconds and then starts right away with 1.65 seconds.. Anycubic told me that the printer do make transitions in layers but i think its a fault in my printer.. could you try that on your printer.. to see if it will do just 1 bottom layer at 30 seconds and then go further at 1.65 seconds.. and you can then easy see it on the TFT screen.. because its a dry test.. so no resin is need for this simple test. I hope you can help me out.. im get crazy of it.. have my printer for weeks now and even not get a good print out of it.. oh .. and before i forgot, you have great video's good learing ones and nice tips etc :) i have here a video about my Mono X and you can see very good that it is not work that file commands: ruclips.net/video/ycM39hm7iIU/видео.html Best Regards Mark
I have the same printer but have not started using it yet. I have heard that this printer automatically puts down 10 layers before printing the object. I wish it didn't do this either. Also, can you check to see if your bed is perfectly level and let me know? My bed is slightly higher around the outer edges (perimeter on all 4 sides) by 0.5 mm. I was expecting the bed to be perfectly flat so I want to know if I need to grind/sand it flat before I start using it.
Can you print individual parts? Like print the torso/head/arms solo so you can maximize the size and therefore print larger overall statues?? Im asking bc this will be my first 3d printer and want to know if i can maximize the size by individually printing the parts
Thanks for the great tips! I have heard so far that you should not touch uncured prints as they can still cause allergies. However I see you are touching them with bare hands so I was wondering what is your take on it?
Hi; I needed your information about a subject I was wondering about. I have a mono x machine. When I print with different layer thicknesses, for example, I don't have a problem with "0.05", but when I print at "0.1" with the same model, same settings and same support settings, it turns out to be problematic, with different layer thicknesses. Is it necessary to change the print and support settings or can such problems occur due to mono x? thanks.
@@krissebesta yes, clean off the resin with IPA bath and then dunk II not hot water to soften the resin to help remove the supports. Don't make it too hot though. You need to be able to put your hand in without boiling your own flesh of the bone :)
5:16 ish. pretty sure you should always cure your prints for health reasons. certainly need to wear gloves when handling uncured resin, even if you've cleaned a lot of the excess liquid off.
I´ve bought one just like yours, but one thing that bothers me is that the printed samples strongly smells resin for too many days. Is that normal? I´ve not cured the sample not even washed with ethanol after printed...
Sorry if I didn't understand the comment, but did you wash it? And or cure it? Because if you didn't do any of those steps its still gonna smell like resin for a while. If you did wash it, then try either washing it for a little longer (if you got the wash and cure machine from any cubic) or so end a little more time with a too the brush on the model.
@@aidanfordsword6954 thank you for answering. Yes, you understood precisely my question. I tried to wash it for a longer periodo, but it persists smelling resig... not as strong as before, but still smells. I've heard that maybe it is happening due to the resign brand. Thank you again!!
You did not tell anyone how to change the exposure setting on the machine or when you have the program on your computer. I have test print failure with no idea what to change on the machine to complete the prints for test.
hi Guys, so do you just print one at a time changing the exposure settings for each or can you print all of them at the same time? I am a little confused at how this works but its quite interesting. Thanks,
It doesn’t matter what I’ve percentage I am running as each machine coupled with the type of resin will yield different result. I’d start with 80% and work your way up
In my opinion, this test is too imprecise. The results must be evaluated subjectively. That's too imprecise. Try TableFlip Foundry's "Cones of Calibration". This test leaves no room for interpretation. I test every resin with it, and always have unequivocal results. The download includes a PDF with a short explanation. Have fun
![World Creation Tutorial for VRChat From Start to Finish [Blender and Unity] (Part 5: Textures I)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/i1Skd3oGydQ/mqdefault.jpg)
The first 1000 people to use the link will get a free trial of Skillshare Premium Membership: skl.sh/3dmn06211
have you had that 1k yet, cause the first day i on its only giving 2 weeks...
UV power 80%?
This is the first video i can finally say " YOU NAILED IT", i've been strugglling for months with my anycubic photon mono x because i could not find the right spot for printing small details and your set up worked PERFECTLY, i am trully gratefull for the information you shared and you got a new follower. THANK YOU MAN!
Just want to let you know I've had a printer for about a year and have had alot of trouble I watched this video today and changes stuff around and had a fantastic print thank you so much.
I was about to give up with resin printing. This has helped me start to actually understand things so Im starting again..Thanks !
This is exactly what I needed to figure out why my prints didn't look quite right, thanks!
This is tons of great info, and the ResinLapse looked *amazing*! 👍
yes it was, even though you might be biased on that 😂
@@3DMakerNoob Maybe just a little bit! 🤣
best video for settings out there, hopefully we can get an updated video regarding this.
Props to you for advertising at 14 dollar USB microscope instead of a 200 dollar one and taking a cut. I've tried maybe a dozen of them with that basic form factor and they're all pretty much exactly the same.
It’s useless spending a ton of money for such things. I bought mine 2 years ago and never used it, purely because I thought one day it could come in handy
that’s a very good idea to use a microscope for analysis, thanks for the tips! 🙂
Great vid. But wear gloves with uncured prints!!
Just a note, holes in the resin exposure test can be perfect if you decrease the "bottom exposure time" in your slicer because this is a small flat object and the printing time is just few minutes (only for this test) and much easier to remove it from the build plate
Awesome video! I feel the same way about my FDM game...after spending so many hours with it, I just "GET IT". I know exactly what to do and what to adjust in order to create a great print. Honestly, I can say that I attribute that to learning from my mistakes and those of others. MORESO the mistakes of others though. RUclips has been an invaluable tool for the 3D printing community. There just aren't enough people out there documenting their workflow and findings in the Resin Printing world and I feel that this is one of the reasons why we aren't seeing as many Resin 3D Makers as we have FDM Makers.
I've been sitting with a Photon Mono (and all the fixins' to make printing easy, EX...Wash and cure station...flex plate) but have only managed to get about 1 kg of resin through the vat because troubleshooting isn't quite the same. Once I get a little extra time I will be going through this video and trying what you've recommended.
Thank You For The Great Video!
I'm waiting my Photon Mono SE arrives, your information will be very useful to get fast and correct prints, thanks a lot! I'll buy Anycubic resin, it seems very correct resin
Great video! I want to get into resin printing as soon as I move to another apartment with more rooms. This video will really help me get started
Keep this amazing content coming 👍🏻
Great video and love that resinlapse clip
I'm new to resin printing and this was PERFECT for me. Thank you so much!!!
Struggling like crazy to get a decent set up for Elegoo ABS grey on my mono x. I'll give this a go. Everything comes out with super thick supports!
Having the same issue with Elegoo ABS-Like Grey on my Mono X. I've settled on 2.6s exposure with 40mm/min lifting speed but feel like it's a bit overexposed due to detail loss in smaller areas like faces and such.
Being new to 3D printing, I found your video very helpful. Thank you.
I love the smoothness of resin printing but I am surprised at the lack of strength! Great informative video though!
I’ll have some videos on strength. You’d be surprised at how better it can be than FDM when you start mixing certain resins :)
Look into Siraya Blu v2. Very strong resin.
Just the info I've been looking for! I'm anxious to watch your other videos and continue learning. I have a Photon Mono SE, and have been struggling to get my prints to come out correctly with no "perfect" luck.
Excellent Joe. I learned so much in this video. I think I'm finally ready to use my Photon. Thank you.
Going to be trying out your suggestions and dial in my printer and resin! Thanks for the very clear instructions!
This is a great video. Your communication is brilliant
What about the UV power setting?
Could you please explain why you add 0.4 seconds to your exposure time in regards to the z axis. Whats the theory behind that? How are you coming up with that number and how does the exposure correlate with the z axis in any way? Is not the movement of the build plate the restricting factor? If it only move up 50micron there is only 50 mikron space for the resin to cure along the z axis, no? And how is the z axis not taken into Account in the first print?
exacly! i want to know to i think its not necesery.
Just spent some time reading all the comments to see if there is any explanation on the .4 seconds and nothing. Does anyone know why .4 was added?
Agreed. This makes no sense to me.
thanks, this explains it in terms i can understand.
the shortest version is get a checker pattern equal on uncured and super clean print.
i use ultrasonic
Can you explain why the .4 extra seconds and correlation with Z??
Trying to figure out that part please
This is awesome video! thanks for making this
Thank you for an amazing tutorial!
Could you please tell me what UV power % are you using
what was the power of the uv lamps for the test? 100%, 80%, 65%? this is critical to compare. regards
I agree with you. I'd like to know his uv power level but in theory we can follow the steps he has outlined and dial in our resins. I am going to be running my uv light at 80%. Cheers!
@@krissebesta I think some different types of resin have a suggested percentage but I'm not sure
I was thinking that, well uv ligth power goes from 65 to 80% , then yuo can play with it, ie. Print at 65% uv power and 2.0 sec, then compare the same but 80%
What do you mean by increasing for Z axis ? I cannot find anything about that elsewhere
Very cool thanks for sharing.
Bloody great informative video that was to the point and easy to understand. It is a sub from me and can’t wait for your vid on lift speeds. Top instruction mate thanks.
That's awesome! I got some siraya tech blu, but went through a different process of dialing in the resin. This would have been a lot less costly than the way that i did it. Thanks for the great video!
nice vid ..once you got the exposure right and the swatch is 99 percent mint .skys the limt ram them speeds up 250 plus and they well
print ive noticed. then its all about your surpports settings then ..and resin prints take so long if you dont give them a little help lol
My first resin printer is on order, I guess it time to start learning 3D printing *AGAIN* lol
same here
Very great video.
Hope to see more of resin printing from you soon.
That’s the plan :)
Love this! Thank you!
Could you explain others settings for speeds, distances and other things?thanks a lot
Man, I really want to expand into Resin printing.
which slicer would you recommend? do you think the photon workshop is any good?
this test is better first or before the cure under UV light for the resin??
I for some reason have gotten better prints with stuff that is 1 second or less using the XP2 test. I am kind of alarmed because every other place suggests around 1.8-2 seconds for the elegoo standard grey. I also was using the 4 layers.
same my exposure using anycubic basic grey is 1.3 seconds
Thank you. I learned a lot!
thanks for the Video ! Csn i ask you something? I just bought my first 3D printer (anycubic photon mono x) and the testcube printed fine...then i had just failures...then i tryed some presupported figure and it worked again...the next day everything failed again multiple times...the first layers Stick to the plate just fine but afterwards it connects to the vat....i tried some exposure times already but its always the same result
Hey there I just got Anycubic photon mono x printer I am using Anycubic 3D Printing UV Sensitive Resin basic Grey, I am using lychee slicer any idea where I can find the resin profiles, I am total newbie never owned a 3D printer of any kind.
Thank you so much for this valuable Video.
What did you use for initial exposure for the [ Siraya Tech (Navy Grey)] ? I can see you elaborated on layer exposure which helped me a lot as I own the same printer and same resin. However, my concern is the initial exposure.
Do you know if different exposure times have any effect on strength?
How did you get chitubox to recognise the Anycubic photon mono …. I have the x2 but no support for it
Just got the Anycubic Photon Mono X and eSun Hard Tough Resin.
On Photon Workshop I setup a new Resin Profile for eSun Hard Tough Resin:
Layer 0.05
Exposure 2.4
Off-time 4
Bottom exp 30 sec
Bottom layers: 4
z-lift: 4mm
Saved to stick.
While running the file, I went into the Set Up screen on the machine and it shows different values:
Exposure: 8 sec
Off-time: 1 sec
Bottom exp: 60 sec
Bottom layers: 3
Looking at the time between lifts it seems that it follows the latter. So I had to adjust on the fly. Even then I'm still seeing the lifts happen about 12 sec in between.
I'm totally confused.
Please help.
i dont understand what you mean at 8:18
Can you print individual parts? Like print the torso/head/arms solo so you can maximize the size and therefore print larger overall statues??
I'm using Photon Mono X for dental application please send the settings for anycubic standard resin . Apart from chittubox is there any other software for mono x model ?
Hello, im in contact with Anycubic trough a ticket, but i think there not understand me. i was wonder if you can do test for me on your Mono X with the Resin XP2 Validation calibration test, do just a dry test, no VAT and no buildplatform attached, just make 1 bottom layer with 30 seconds exposure time and the normal layer at 1.65 seconds. so i was wonder if your printer do just 1 layer at 30 seconds and then starts the second with 1.65 and all other layers too.. my printer just start and arround layer 3 or 4 its reduse the exposuretime and by layer 10 orso it starts with 1.65 seconds... so it is not work the given settings that is in the PWMX file that is made.. i tested the same settings at a Mono and then its do 1 layer at 30 seconds and then starts right away with 1.65 seconds.. Anycubic told me that the printer do make transitions in layers but i think its a fault in my printer.. could you try that on your printer.. to see if it will do just 1 bottom layer at 30 seconds and then go further at 1.65 seconds.. and you can then easy see it on the TFT screen.. because its a dry test.. so no resin is need for this simple test. I hope you can help me out.. im get crazy of it.. have my printer for weeks now and even not get a good print out of it.. oh .. and before i forgot, you have great video's good learing ones and nice tips etc :)
i have here a video about my Mono X and you can see very good that it is not work that file commands: ruclips.net/video/ycM39hm7iIU/видео.html
Best Regards Mark
I have the same printer but have not started using it yet. I have heard that this printer automatically puts down 10 layers before printing the object. I wish it didn't do this either. Also, can you check to see if your bed is perfectly level and let me know? My bed is slightly higher around the outer edges (perimeter on all 4 sides) by 0.5 mm. I was expecting the bed to be perfectly flat so I want to know if I need to grind/sand it flat before I start using it.
@@krissebesta I sanded mine with 80grit on a flat stone surface (marble countertop). Works perfectly now
Great video!
i know this is over a year old but how do you use Chitutbox , save slice files in the pwmx format? oi have ver. 1.7.0 cuz i'm broke
Hello, can you do a tutorial for UV Tools with the mono x please? :)
Can you print individual parts? Like print the torso/head/arms solo so you can maximize the size and therefore print larger overall statues??
Im asking bc this will be my first 3d printer and want to know if i can maximize the size by individually printing the parts
Yes you can. Most people do this unless they're printing minis.
Thanks for the great tips!
I have heard so far that you should not touch uncured prints as they can still cause allergies.
However I see you are touching them with bare hands so I was wondering what is your take on it?
Thanks.
what is a good uv power % for the mono x for translucent resin?
I’d say 80% should be more than enough
so 2.4 exposure is best?
thank u
Hi; I needed your information about a subject I was wondering about. I have a mono x machine. When I print with different layer thicknesses, for example, I don't have a problem with "0.05", but when I print at "0.1" with the same model, same settings and same support settings, it turns out to be problematic, with different layer thicknesses. Is it necessary to change the print and support settings or can such problems occur due to mono x? thanks.
Different layer heights require different setting, such as exposure time and also support joint sizes as it impacts it a lot
thx u
Great
You should also take a look at the other photonsters project UVTools Resin Exposure finder
dunk your model into hot water before removing the supports, makes it a lot easier to remove
agree
Do you clean it with ipa first then warm water? I've heard a blow dryer works well too.
@@krissebesta yes, clean off the resin with IPA bath and then dunk II not hot water to soften the resin to help remove the supports. Don't make it too hot though. You need to be able to put your hand in without boiling your own flesh of the bone :)
Also don't keep it in got water to long just 3 or 4 seconds. You can always redunk it if there are a lot of supports to remove
@@Pendrayk Excellent! Thanks!
why did u pass the curing process?
5:16 ish. pretty sure you should always cure your prints for health reasons. certainly need to wear gloves when handling uncured resin, even if you've cleaned a lot of the excess liquid off.
I´ve bought one just like yours, but one thing that bothers me is that the printed samples strongly smells resin for too many days. Is that normal? I´ve not cured the sample not even washed with ethanol after printed...
Sorry if I didn't understand the comment, but did you wash it? And or cure it? Because if you didn't do any of those steps its still gonna smell like resin for a while. If you did wash it, then try either washing it for a little longer (if you got the wash and cure machine from any cubic) or so end a little more time with a too the brush on the model.
@@aidanfordsword6954 thank you for answering. Yes, you understood precisely my question. I tried to wash it for a longer periodo, but it persists smelling resig... not as strong as before, but still smells. I've heard that maybe it is happening due to the resign brand. Thank you again!!
What if you have used this but only the circles appear and nothing else does and all the other detail dont even form
Late reply but Lack of details is usually a sign of over exposure try lowering your exposure time
You did not tell anyone how to change the exposure setting on the machine or when you have the program on your computer. I have test print failure with no idea what to change on the machine to complete the prints for test.
hi Guys, so do you just print one at a time changing the exposure settings for each or can you print all of them at the same time? I am a little confused at how this works but its quite interesting. Thanks,
One at a time I'm pretty sure.
@@aidanfordsword6954 thank you
can you comment your UV percent on this please! all the info is useless without that!
It doesn’t matter what I’ve percentage I am running as each machine coupled with the type of resin will yield different result. I’d start with 80% and work your way up
+++++++++++++++
No entendí nada
estoy buscando setting para mi photon mono x y estoy sufriendo con el ingles..
In my opinion, this test is too imprecise. The results must be evaluated subjectively. That's too imprecise. Try TableFlip Foundry's "Cones of Calibration". This test leaves no room for interpretation. I test every resin with it, and always have unequivocal results.
The download includes a PDF with a short explanation. Have fun
Hello sir please make a giveaway of a 3D Printer. Better if you giveaway Creality CR10 V3 3D Printer
These tests are all shit 😂 even the cones are way out just print a model and go off that
Pssst..... might wanna look into logos before printing the swirls are known and published peto marks according to FBI just FYI
Wouldn’t know as I don’t do research for such things. An infinity symbol is an infinity symbol
Excellent video!