Personally, I only give credit when credit is due. Mr. Daniel clearly explains motors to where the most novice inexperienced mechanics if you will...can really sorta understand like myself. Generally, really reputable engine builders seem to make "Rocket Science" out of it to where it's more difficult to digest/understand. Thanks again Mr. Daniel for sharing your hard earned experience with a large audience of all levels.
I cannot state how awesome your videos are, you get straight to the point and calmly explain the MOST important bits! Your content is so easy to watch and your format is perfect. I especially love your intro...a brief statement then your info flashed on to the screen with no silly music! Perfect ! Keep the vids coming ! I'll bet that you are flooded with work !
This man teaches how to deal with the issues seen daily on forums and on Facebook and he does this for free . No guessing , no 10 different opinion just real good information obtained from experience . I appreciate what Powell Machine is doing .
Thank you so much for taking the time to show these tech videos to us less knowledgeable people. I really enjoy listening to you explain the process and the way things work. I would give anything to spend just a weekend with you and soak up everything you are willing to share. Thanks again from ohio
Shops are sad places where no one builds motors anymore. My degree wheel is in the top of one of my boxes and everyone in the shop asked what it was. In 2 shops over 25 years I built the only motors that were built on the premises. Successful builds anyway. Saw one guy build a 3.8 Buick that locked up on him on the test drive(Mix n match rod and main caps.) and another a Ford 302 that used mismatched rod and crank. On the first rire up it ran less than a minute and quit. The bolt holding the timing gear to the cam was loose. New cam bearings, cam and lifters. It was a mess, the bossman took over still building with an internally balanced rod set and an external balanced crank... It shook like a wet dog. Ford 302 had 3 different balancing schemes over the years. Using matching parts matter. Most shops buy used motors or from the big rebuild outfits like the one that starts with J. I never like the big places. They turn out crap though they preach quality. Me, I'm an old school big block Chrysler guy. I played in the 70s-90s turned tech and did electrical, electronics, drivability and emissions inspection in California. I retired 10 years ago but still look to see what's going on. Old habits die hard.
I didn't have a cool cutaway cylinder head to look at the valve piston clearance. I did it old school with modeling clay on the top of the piston... Remove the head and measure where it was pressed the thinnest. My low tech solution can be had at most toy and art supply stores. Back then I didn't have a metal cutting band saw to create such a head. Now I have a pretty complete fabrication shop but don't build cars anymore. My hobby changed. Now I build electric conveyances. Retirement ruined me, but then I don't get around like I used to. Old age isn't for sissies. I never worked in an automotive machine shop but I did pass the ASE exam for it. I kinda envied that end of it. I love the videos.
Agree - Old age isn't for sissies. Also, youth is often wasted on some young people. Just when you have learned almost all there is to know, old age steps in and you can't do it any more.
Exceptional explanation and video. In 72, I asked a SnapOn truck guy for a degree wheel. He said “A What”. I own a CalVan wheel & a chrome die-cast tach-dwell meter. I keep them in drawer with 7 distributors & carb wrenches + timing light. Drawer marked “Antiques”. LoL Thanks Daniel.
It is really great to see this simplified real time by someone who has done it a thousand times. Thanks so much for cutting open the head for a really great visual of the valve clearance!. A great reminder for caution when advancing a big cam.
Hi Daniel, I haven't degreed a cam in over 10 yrs. but I will rely on this video to get me there again! Thank you very much! Not too many people will take the time to explain this like you have!👍👍
For those that may not understand the mountain analogy and why it's used. The mountain top (TDC) isn't sharp. Once the crank gets to TDC there is a lot of room for error when watching a needle on a dial. There are a few degrees of movement in the crank rotation with negligible movement of the dial making for a large window of error. Going down both sides of the mountain (great analogy, I'm stealing it) to a matching depth on both sides and splitting the difference is the only way to be dead nuts on. DO NOT forget to account for timing chain slack (a disappointing reality). You'll change your mind on cheap timing sets the first time you see the amount of rotation the crank moves to take up the slack.
I know you're crazy busy. But thank you so much for taking the time to make videos like this one. You did a great job of clearing the fog on cams & clearance. The cut-away head was the icing on the cake.
Excellent presentation of cam timing. I love the pistons chasing the exhaust valves closed and the intake valves chasing the pistons open. Very informative. Thank you for the education.
Wow! That was really an eye opener. I still struggled to understand the dial indicator and timing stuff, but the cut away view of the piston and valve operation was fantastic. Thank you very much.
Great information as always. It’s refreshing to see someone else that has really honed their craft and takes pride in their work. Something the automotive industry has needed much more of for a long time.
I have watched many videos on degreeing a cam. I've even degreed a few myself. This is the best explanation on degreeing a cam that I have seen. Super excellent job. Thank you
As someone who worked at a cam grinder I an attest it is essential to degree your cam. It is nice to see someone point out the things that a lot of people overlook. The degree wheel is not expensive. Mine is black ;)
That cut away head allowing a good look at the piston and valves is amazing. Really lets you see and fully understand whats going on inside that cylinder and head chamber. Absolutely the best explanation of cam numbers to actual clearance conditions I've ever seen or heard. Beats the hell out of diagrams on chalkboards. Really looking forward to your next episode on the LS ninemare build.
exclent video Daniel....!...explaned almost word 4 word the way i was show'n 40 years ago..from a mentor/boss/best friend...who would change his camshafts like most people change there socks..!..just look'n for that extra tenth less @ the track..!..the cut a way head was "really" cool..!.he degree'd most of his cams with a piston stop,as the motor was in the car...the initial build/fresh'n up, was done every winter,exactly like u show'd.!.thank u..great post.!.well explaned..easly understood..!..spot on...!.
I’m a new subscriber and yes your way of explaining does help me out a lot. I always built 2-strokes and used a timing wheel for my engines to get of transfers,intake,& exhaust opening and closing to match what the taper timing slip says and then check my squish area. Find .038” is what my Stage6 cylinder head combo likes. I’m a Chevy guy myself but my first engine build was a ford 302 go figure. An old ford tech guided my every move and the engine stayed together for over 250,000 miles. I sold it with 80,000 miles with a new timing chain to help keep it together cause the kid that bought it raced it and didn’t loose to many races on the street. I built a sbc 357 and used 305 heads with stock 360 size valves 280 comp rpm intake 650 Holley 2800 stall th350 3.42 gears in a 85 s10 blazer. Cuz had a square body big block and wanted to see how bad he could drag me in the quarter,lol. I think it was like 5 cars, but I drugged him after I hit 2nd gear. He asked how could that be,well if you’re cam doesn’t open and close the valves at the time it was designed to do so you’re motor ain’t right. I asked if he put a new timing chain and gears he said no it didn’t have to much slack,I laughed. I also said your timing is wrong I did hear a backfire on his 1-2 shift,so he turned his distributor,lol. That’s not what I meant cuz!! lol,for some people this just goes over there head and bounces off the wall and smacks them in the back of the head!! Thought you might like my story. I was 13 years old when I built the 302,& around 20 when I built my sbc 357,& now I’m 52 years old. Love the channel, just found it and subscribed,,,
That cut away combustion chamber is really cool !!. I wish you would have gotten a better close up of those valve events. Very cool video tho. Very informative, thank you. 🍻
That is some great info brother. I am working on a N/a Ls3 for my swap. I haven't chosen a cam yet for it. I don't want it lobin really hard. Maybe some. I don't want it difficult to drive for my wife. It's mostly burnouts and ice cream, and maybe take it to a track. I'm not looking to join Street Outlaws lol. But a nice lope would be cool. Thank you for the video brother.
Nice video. Since most people don’t have a cut away scrap head, you did not mention the play check method and being kind of old-school 080 on a higher reving is a pretty good number.
Great explanation What are your thoughts on LSA? David Vizard explains how many times cam manufacturers miss the ideal LSA in their design. According to the formula, he gives I calculated mine to be 104 I am running a 440 Mopar with a 6barrel set up Pretty much just rebuilt the stock specifications with the exception of the cam that was provided by Bob K also known as Mr6pack
I have a question. Valve event timing being crucial. When checking a block for the first time. How often are all 16 lifter bores returning the same valve timing events, given the cam is cam doctor correct? Are the lifter bores sometimes incorrect for placement in relation to valve events? I know sometimes they are off front to back.
Correct me if I’m wrong: The purpose of degreeing a cam is to check if the cam you have is the one you want and/or to check if the specs correspond with what you ordered?
Daniel Powell, if I try to degree a cam with asymmetrical lobe, should I indicate off of the cam's base circle rather than finding the top of the lobe?
Please remind me when I roll up to the lights that if the other car has a Powell Machine decal on it, I better cut the best light of my life cause I ain't goin' to motor pass this car to get a win light.
I just bought a Corvette with a stock L98. Anyone know what if anything can be done to get real horsepower? 50 or more is real. I was thinking cam and heads but i have a feeling the tpi is limiting
I've never bothered degreeing the cam on a stock build. Sure on performance builds I've advanced/retarded for some fine tuning. Are the cam grind tolerances and sprocket/gear tolerances that far off?
@@powellmachineinc That's quite a bit. What do you attribute that to? Aftermarket parts? Or are the factory parts bad too? Personally I almost exclusively do truck and industrial and try to stick with factory parts. Back like 35 - 40 years ago I built some ENDT675 and 676 Macks with aftermarket parts, and they didn't last as long as the factory ones I built. I really didn't save much either
A 4 stroke engine does not give a rats about the cam numbers , it only really wants the numbers at the RIGHT place, you can check if the cam is close at O/L and adjust with a decent at least 8 deg each way Vernier cam sprocket either road or dyno. NO cam expert knows exactly what you engine wants. Finger follower lobes are NOT the same profile either side of the exact nose point so you would want to be careful here. But your system is tried and true and certainly gets to a staring point
OK. Show us how you do it, making adjustable. Have you not heard of timing gears that are advanced or retarded 1, 2, 3 or more degrees. If so how do you know what adjusted unit to fit if you haven't measured the cam timing?
Man hands down the best video on RUclips about how to degree a camshaft thank you
Glad you liked it
Not another single video on the internet that explains everything so clearly. Everyone else makes it seem so complicated. Great watch
Thank you!!
Mr Powell Stays droppin gems that are explained so clearly, thanks for what you do, cant waiting to install my custom can later this month
We appreciate that !!
The cut away head is an awesome visual. You knocked it out of the park again, as usual!
Glad you like it!
Great explanation, for the perfect visuals the cutaway was the icing on the cake.
Glad you liked it!
Personally, I only give credit when credit is due. Mr. Daniel clearly explains motors to where the most novice inexperienced mechanics if you will...can really sorta understand like myself. Generally, really reputable engine builders seem to make "Rocket Science" out of it to where it's more difficult to digest/understand. Thanks again Mr. Daniel for sharing your hard earned experience with a large audience of all levels.
Ty so much, we really appreciate that and we try hard
Oh, and I only want the very best of parts suggested for my Street Rod "TANG90" Thanks
We are never too old to learn, but we do get too old to forget, the cut away was genius. Thank you !
Very welcome
I cannot state how awesome your videos are, you get straight to the point and calmly explain the MOST important bits! Your content is so easy to watch and your format is perfect. I especially love your intro...a brief statement then your info flashed on to the screen with no silly music! Perfect !
Keep the vids coming ! I'll bet that you are flooded with work !
I don't believe I've ever seen anyone take the time to make a cutaway head like that to explain this for people to easily see. Nice job!
You're very welcome!
Nice!
Excellent presentation, thanks for taking the time.
My pleasure!
This man teaches how to deal with the issues seen daily on forums and on Facebook and he does this for free . No guessing , no 10 different opinion just real good information obtained from experience . I appreciate what Powell Machine is doing .
Ty, we really appreciate that
So When you see a cam advertised with 114 +3 that actually means subtract 3 degrees from the LSA?
Thank you so much for taking the time to show these tech videos to us less knowledgeable people. I really enjoy listening to you explain the process and the way things work. I would give anything to spend just a weekend with you and soak up everything you are willing to share. Thanks again from ohio
Glad you like them!, it's our pleasure to do them!
Shops are sad places where no one builds motors anymore. My degree wheel is in the top of one of my boxes and everyone in the shop asked what it was. In 2 shops over 25 years I built the only motors that were built on the premises. Successful builds anyway. Saw one guy build a 3.8 Buick that locked up on him on the test drive(Mix n match rod and main caps.) and another a Ford 302 that used mismatched rod and crank. On the first rire up it ran less than a minute and quit. The bolt holding the timing gear to the cam was loose. New cam bearings, cam and lifters. It was a mess, the bossman took over still building with an internally balanced rod set and an external balanced crank... It shook like a wet dog. Ford 302 had 3 different balancing schemes over the years. Using matching parts matter. Most shops buy used motors or from the big rebuild outfits like the one that starts with J. I never like the big places. They turn out crap though they preach quality.
Me, I'm an old school big block Chrysler guy. I played in the 70s-90s turned tech and did electrical, electronics, drivability and emissions inspection in California. I retired 10 years ago but still look to see what's going on. Old habits die hard.
I didn't have a cool cutaway cylinder head to look at the valve piston clearance. I did it old school with modeling clay on the top of the piston... Remove the head and measure where it was pressed the thinnest. My low tech solution can be had at most toy and art supply stores.
Back then I didn't have a metal cutting band saw to create such a head. Now I have a pretty complete fabrication shop but don't build cars anymore. My hobby changed. Now I build electric conveyances. Retirement ruined me, but then I don't get around like I used to. Old age isn't for sissies.
I never worked in an automotive machine shop but I did pass the ASE exam for it. I kinda envied that end of it.
I love the videos.
Agree - Old age isn't for sissies.
Also, youth is often wasted on some young people.
Just when you have learned almost all there is to know, old age steps in and you can't do it any more.
Exceptional explanation and video. In 72, I asked a SnapOn truck guy for a degree wheel. He said “A What”. I own a CalVan wheel & a chrome die-cast tach-dwell meter. I keep them in drawer with 7 distributors & carb wrenches + timing light. Drawer marked “Antiques”. LoL
Thanks Daniel.
@@deankay4434 lol! You're welcome 😊
It is really great to see this simplified real time by someone who has done it a thousand times.
Thanks so much for cutting open the head for a really great visual of the valve clearance!. A great reminder for caution when advancing a big cam.
You're very welcome!
Hi Daniel, I haven't degreed a cam in over 10 yrs. but I will rely on this video to get me there again! Thank you very much! Not too many people will take the time to explain this like you have!👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
For those that may not understand the mountain analogy and why it's used. The mountain top (TDC) isn't sharp. Once the crank gets to TDC there is a lot of room for error when watching a needle on a dial. There are a few degrees of movement in the crank rotation with negligible movement of the dial making for a large window of error. Going down both sides of the mountain (great analogy, I'm stealing it) to a matching depth on both sides and splitting the difference is the only way to be dead nuts on. DO NOT forget to account for timing chain slack (a disappointing reality). You'll change your mind on cheap timing sets the first time you see the amount of rotation the crank moves to take up the slack.
Absolutely!
I've learned more in half a dozen of your videos than I did in 60 years of oil changing and basic engine work. Thanks!
I've been @ it over 40 years, learnt me a couple things, excellent information.
Definitely, ty for watching
Damn Daniel, you’re a rock star of knowledge. Thank you for taking the time to share!
Ty, we try hard!
My favorite auto machine shop channel.
Wow, thanks!
I know you're crazy busy. But thank you so much for taking the time to make videos like this one.
You did a great job of clearing the fog on cams & clearance. The cut-away head was the icing on the cake.
You are so welcome!
Excellent presentation of cam timing. I love the pistons chasing the exhaust valves closed and the intake valves chasing the pistons open. Very informative. Thank you for the education.
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for the information!
You bet!
I'm, not an LS guy. But, great upload sir! I, really enjoyed the cut away cylinder head! Thank you, for the upload!
Glad you enjoyed it
This is a perfect video explaining this. I'm gald you brought up the updated valve clearance and the fact that total lift is not the issue!
Ty, we appreciate it
Wow! That was really an eye opener. I still struggled to understand the dial indicator and timing stuff, but the cut away view of the piston and valve operation was fantastic. Thank you very much.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video. I make sure that I watch one or two of these a day. I appreciate you taking the time to educate us. Thanks, man.
Great information as always. It’s refreshing to see someone else that has really honed their craft and takes pride in their work. Something the automotive industry has needed much more of for a long time.
Thanks for watching!
I have watched many videos on degreeing a cam. I've even degreed a few myself.
This is the best explanation on degreeing a cam that I have seen. Super excellent
job. Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
As someone who worked at a cam grinder I an attest it is essential to degree your cam. It is nice to see someone point out the things that a lot of people overlook. The degree wheel is not expensive. Mine is black ;)
Thank you!
That's awesome you spend your time showing people how these things are done, I'm sure you have other things you could be doing. Thanks.
Well, it help us inform our customers, so it's a win win
Best one yet Ivan. Don't forget to please and thank you Tanya. ( we're British)
Glad u enjoyed
Great simple straight forward cam degreeing demo. Love the cut-away explanation for piston-valve clearance.
Tyvm
Excellent video Daniel. The milled head was an excellent addition to explanation
Glad it was helpful!
That cut away head allowing a good look at the piston and valves is amazing. Really lets you see and fully understand whats going on inside that cylinder and head chamber. Absolutely the best explanation of cam numbers to actual clearance conditions I've ever seen or heard. Beats the hell out of diagrams on chalkboards. Really looking forward to your next episode on the LS ninemare build.
Thanks 👍
@@powellmachineinc any idea when you'll get back to the LS Ninemare build and have an episode 5 ?
@StevenDaugherty-uo5cs probably next week, I think we are going to balance the rotating assembly over the weekend, so should have a video up soon
This was very informative. Love the cutaway head to see the clearances of piston to valve relation.
TYVM
exclent video Daniel....!...explaned almost word 4 word the way i was show'n 40 years ago..from a mentor/boss/best friend...who would change his camshafts like most people change there socks..!..just look'n for that extra tenth less @ the track..!..the cut a way head was "really" cool..!.he degree'd most of his cams with a piston stop,as the motor was in the car...the initial build/fresh'n up, was done every winter,exactly like u show'd.!.thank u..great post.!.well explaned..easly understood..!..spot on...!.
Awesome! Ty.
Best cam degree video I have seen, thanks for breaking this down in easy to understand steps.
Glad it was helpful!
I’m a new subscriber and yes your way of explaining does help me out a lot. I always built 2-strokes and used a timing wheel for my engines to get of transfers,intake,& exhaust opening and closing to match what the taper timing slip says and then check my squish area. Find .038” is what my Stage6 cylinder head combo likes. I’m a Chevy guy myself but my first engine build was a ford 302 go figure. An old ford tech guided my every move and the engine stayed together for over 250,000 miles. I sold it with 80,000 miles with a new timing chain to help keep it together cause the kid that bought it raced it and didn’t loose to many races on the street. I built a sbc 357 and used 305 heads with stock 360 size valves 280 comp rpm intake 650 Holley 2800 stall th350 3.42
gears in a 85 s10 blazer. Cuz had a square body big block and wanted to see how bad he could drag me in the quarter,lol. I think it was like 5 cars, but I drugged him after I hit 2nd gear. He asked how could that be,well if you’re cam doesn’t open and close the valves at the time it was designed to do so you’re motor ain’t right. I asked if he put a new timing chain and gears he said no it didn’t have to much slack,I laughed. I also said your timing is wrong I did hear a backfire on his 1-2 shift,so he turned his distributor,lol. That’s not what I meant cuz!! lol,for some people this just goes over there head and bounces off the wall and smacks them in the back of the head!! Thought you might like my story. I was 13 years old when I built the 302,& around 20 when I built my sbc 357,& now I’m 52 years old. Love the channel, just found it and subscribed,,,
Ty sir, glad to have you
Great video. The head cutaway really gets the visual of events in combustion chamber in relation to valves ,overlap ,piston dwell and cam setup.
I didn't know you were doing RUclips! Nice video sir! I liked and subscribed. Enjoy your millions! 😂
Thanks for the sub! Im stacking money lol
Very nice informative video, thanks for taking the time to do it.
Glad it was helpful!
I love your use of visual training aids and thorough explanations. Thank you for this.
Ty, our goal is to educate our customers and help make a success out of there project.
Excellent content. I've never seen the piston chasing the exh and intake chasing the piston. That really helps!
Glad you liked it!
Behold and education that is far more practical, valuable, and less expensive than most college degrees.
We appreciate that!
Great video as always. Degreeing a camshaft is so important to a good engine build.
Absolutely
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge. This was an awesome video. I learned a lot.
Glad it was helpful!
Another great informative video,thanks for sharing your knowledge..
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for the content I'm just watching and learning.
Glad to hear it!
Great video man. My old man and I own a machine shop in Mooresville NC and we get alot of calls about this too
Right on
Another great presentation, TYVM Daniel!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Big Body Buick ,you guys are the best on the net, thanks for the videos
Great Info, thank you for making these videos
@@johnniemoore2228 our pleasure 🙏
i’ve never seen it like that that was pretty cool!
Thank you
Glad you liked it!
this was one of the best videos yet thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
I appreciate the tips and info! great stuff!
Glad it was helpful!
Nice Cutaway view - thanks!
Glad you liked it!
That cut away combustion chamber is really cool !!. I wish you would have gotten a better close up of those valve events. Very cool video tho. Very informative, thank you. 🍻
Thanks 👍
Wow. Thank you so much. I learned a lot.
Glad it was helpful!
Very well explained especially for laymen like myself.
Glad you liked it
That is some great info brother. I am working on a N/a Ls3 for my swap. I haven't chosen a cam yet for it. I don't want it lobin really hard. Maybe some. I don't want it difficult to drive for my wife. It's mostly burnouts and ice cream, and maybe take it to a track. I'm not looking to join Street Outlaws lol. But a nice lope would be cool. Thank you for the video brother.
Just reach out when ready and we can grind one for your application.
Hell yea. Thank you sir.
Southern dialect sounds awesome!😂
Ty!
Nice video. Since most people don’t have a cut away scrap head, you did not mention the play check method and being kind of old-school 080 on a higher reving is a pretty good number.
Great video, thank you.
Way good info, thanks for the video.
Thank you for your videos 😊
Glad you like them!
Great Video, thank you! Much appreciated for sure!
Glad it was helpful!
GREAT ILLISTRATION
Glad you liked it!
Great explanation
What are your thoughts on LSA?
David Vizard explains how many times cam manufacturers miss the ideal LSA in their design.
According to the formula, he gives I calculated mine to be 104
I am running a 440 Mopar with a 6barrel set up
Pretty much just rebuilt the stock specifications with the exception of the cam that was provided by Bob K also known as Mr6pack
Lsa is a arbitrary # opening and closing events are all that ever matter
G'day Dan I have watched 5 episodes and think I no what to do so I have decided to open my own shop.
Do you think being a plumber will be a problem.
Thanks for sharing 😊
Thanks for watching!
I have a question. Valve event timing being crucial. When checking a block for the first time.
How often are all 16 lifter bores returning the same valve timing events, given the cam is cam doctor correct?
Are the lifter bores sometimes incorrect for placement in relation to valve events?
I know sometimes they are off front to back.
The lifter bores are always off some
@@powellmachineinc I figured.
Do you need to degree a dual overhead cam? If so is the process the same? For example a srt4 2.4 liter twin overhead cam with lash adjusters.
the dubbing is immaculate
Correct me if I’m wrong: The purpose of degreeing a cam is to check if the cam you have is the one you want and/or to check if the specs correspond with what you ordered?
Yes, but we want to verify the icl is correct as it's a major factor and there are 4 places it could be wromg
Fantastic - Thanks
Our pleasure!
Daniel Powell, if I try to degree a cam with asymmetrical lobe, should I indicate off of the cam's base circle rather than finding the top of the lobe?
No
Great watch
Glad u thought so
Question
How much of a difference is there between that larger degree wheel and a smaller version? Any help is appreciated.
Maybe 1/2 degree or so
@@powellmachineinc ok. I'll get the larger one.
He didn't even talk about the LX8.
damn dude I have a degree wheel - but not that big. How accurate are you going for?
I just can't see....lol
man vaulllves and cayuuumshaayyyfts should never be discussed in any accent other than this one.
Please remind me when I roll up to the lights that if the other car has a Powell Machine decal on it, I better cut the best light of my life cause I ain't goin' to motor pass this car to get a win light.
Perhaps you can talk about advancing or retarding the cam and what are the benefits of each? It’s something that’s a bit of a mystery to me.
Thanks 👍
Welcome 👍
I still don't get what degreeing the cam is and why you would do it is it just to verify your cam is what it says it is
Exactly
How does it differ if it is a double over cam motor?
Valve if it's direct action, not much, swinging rocker, better check them all
Please explain why we need to degree a cam Thanks
There are 4 places it could be off, we want to confirm it's correct, if the int closing events are wrong it can severely affect dynamic compression.
I just bought a Corvette with a stock L98. Anyone know what if anything can be done to get real horsepower? 50 or more is real. I was thinking cam and heads but i have a feeling the tpi is limiting
Finding someone to tune that system will be the issue... we can help with head's and cam
@@powellmachineinc I will ask around for tuning. I am in PA. I need to remove all the EGR crap. We don't have emissions.
I've never bothered degreeing the cam on a stock build. Sure on performance builds I've advanced/retarded for some fine tuning. Are the cam grind tolerances and sprocket/gear tolerances that far off?
We have fixed some that were off 6 or more degrees
@@powellmachineinc That's quite a bit. What do you attribute that to? Aftermarket parts? Or are the factory parts bad too?
Personally I almost exclusively do truck and industrial and try to stick with factory parts. Back like 35 - 40 years ago I built some ENDT675 and 676 Macks with aftermarket parts, and they didn't last as long as the factory ones I built. I really didn't save much either
👏👏👏👏
Have you ever seen a L5P duramax lifter?
Yes
That piston does not have rings on it, right?
Correct
Big Body Buick.
A 4 stroke engine does not give a rats about the cam numbers , it only really wants the numbers at the RIGHT place, you can check if the cam is close at O/L and adjust with a decent at least 8 deg each way Vernier cam sprocket either road or dyno. NO cam expert knows exactly what you engine wants. Finger follower lobes are NOT the same profile either side of the exact nose point
so you would want to be careful here. But your system is tried and true and certainly gets to a staring point
Completely pointless without any adjustability
OK. Show us how you do it, making adjustable. Have you not heard of timing gears that are advanced or retarded 1, 2, 3 or more degrees. If so how do you know what adjusted unit to fit if you haven't measured the cam timing?
Thanks !
Np!