Can You REALLY Zero Your Rifle At 30 Yards?
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- Опубликовано: 19 сен 2023
- Welcome to Ron Spomer Outdoors! Today, we are going to see if you can really zero your rifle at 30 yards or not.
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Who is Ron Spomer
For 44 years I’ve had the good fortune to photograph and write about my passion - the outdoor life. Wild creatures and wild places have always stirred me - from the first flushing pheasant that frightened me out of my socks in grandpa’s cornfield to the last whitetail that dismissed me with a wag of its tail. In my attempts to connect with this natural wonder, to become an integral part of our ecosystem and capture a bit of its mystery, I’ve photographed, hiked, hunted, birded, and fished across much of this planet. I've seen the beauty that everyone should see, survived adventures that everyone should experience. I may not have climbed the highest mountains, canoed the wildest rivers, caught the largest fish or shot the biggest bucks, but I’ve tried. Perhaps you have, too. And that’s the essential thing. Being out there, an active participant in our outdoor world.
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All loading, handloading, gunsmithing, shooting and associated activities and demonstrations depicted in our videos are conducted by trained, certified, professional gun handlers, instructors, and shooters for instructional and entertainment purposes only with emphasis on safety and responsible gun handling. Always check at least 3 industry handloading manuals for handloading data, 2 or 3 online ballistic calculators for ballistic data. Do not modify any cartridge or firearm beyond what the manufacturer recommends. Do not attempt to duplicate, mimic, or replicate anything you see in our videos. Firearms, ammunition, and constituent parts can be extremely dangerous if not used safely. 
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I never got the chance to hunt growing up, nor to meet my dad or grandpa. I always enjoy Ron’s videos. I feel like he would be just like my grandpa. His knowledge rings true almost every time.
Side note; 36yard zero with slower cartridges works better. 45-70, 300blk, 5.7 anything 1500-2300fps
I truly Hope someone will introduce you to hunting; Take you shooting ect. Ron Spomer is fun to watch and is informative.
I know my dad but, he cant legally own a gun, and has never been outside, other than boyscouts when he was 14. I'd kill to have the chance to go hunting with someone with Ron's knowledge. I suppose maybe one day I will be able to pay for a guided hunt or something but, that sounds lame to me. I am in texas tho so, i cant hunt unless i own land and at this point in my life, we can pretty much guarantee that is never going to happen lol
@@apollow_g1025 Are you telling us that citizens of the state of Texas ,(not just a resident) , can not hunt in that state unless they own property, even if they had permission from the land owner ; or is it that the land owners are so greedy & charge so much money that you could not afford to hunt ??
@@robertmintz63 In the west, as opposed to Texas, we often hunt on public lands, mostly Federal land, BLM or USFS. There's also some county land in places. In Texas there's only one "small" piece land administered by the BLM on the south side of the Canadian River. There's considerably more (around 60 times more) National Forest/Grassland land, though very little area compared to the size of the state. You'ld have to research the regulations to find out whether the Feds even open any of that land to hunting. The land owners that charge for hunting might regard using Fenderal to hunt for free unfair competition. When you look at the land holding patterns of Texas, the state is more typical of mid-west states. Land ownership is dominated by private "agricultural" concerns and gas and oil extraction concerns.
A friend of mine zeroed his scope at 30 yards and I told him he better check it at 100. He didn’t. Said it was good to go. A couple days later the biggest buck he has ever seen walks out at about 75 yards. He was one of those types who only needs the bullets that are in his rifle. He emptied his rifle, 5 shots right over the deers shoulder. The buck never moved he had no idea what all that noise was. Out of bullets, he got mad at himself and climbed down out of his stand and started walking back to his truck. Yes, the buck just stood there looking at him as he walked back to his truck. Lesson learned.
Tree stand? LOL he was shooting a 30-yd zero and downhill too? No wonder he shot over.
Legend has it that buck is still standing in the same spot…. Meanwhile my Harley Davidson is the signal to dart across the road
Shooting from a elevated position you will shoot high every time after sighting in on flat ground
In the Marines, we zeroed at 30 yards, and it was the equivalent of 300 yards (M16A2 with iron sights). This is based on the trajectory of the 5.56. The bullet crosses your sight line at 30 yards on the way up, and it again crosses your sight line at 300 yards on the way down. It was pretty spot on for that rifle and that ammo.
EDIT: It was apparently 36 yards. That was a LOOOONG time ago, so memory is fuzzy.
yeah in the british army we basically did the same thing . spot on at 25 meters . a lil high at 100 and spot on at 300 meters
Fascinating.
In the Army we had a 30M known distance range we zeroed on. When I arrived at Camp Howze Korea in 1988 it was about 2300 ma and 4 other guys met the First Sergeant got fitted for our promask and zeroed our weapons on the KD Range they had set up. They handed us a packing list and the next morning was a 12 mile road march
@@markmclaughlin2690Army went to 25 m since, at least my entire career (92-23) and now do a 25m zero and zero confirmation at full range.
Actually we zeroed at 36 yards but I get what your say'n.
Hello Ron,
My father taught us to shoot 1 inch low at 25 yrds with our 30-06 to be 3 inches high at 100 yrds.... we did this religiously all growing up.... then we always shot at 100 yrds to be certain.....we were all shooting 30-06 7600 pump carbines...and this worked well!
Mike in tip top Northern Vermont.
I've been doing this on family and friend's rifles over 30 years. I bore sight at 33 yards and shoot once. I then make scope adjustments ( measuered inches) X 3. That puts me Really close at 100 while only shooting one round. You can then fine tune at 100-400 yards.. I like 2+3 inches high at 100 in my .308. thats puts me close at 200 and only 5-6 low at 300.👍
ive done this too.
Like the way you think, I only go to 1” at 100, after 200 I hold 2” high, don’t miss much.
35 yard zero is a good combat zero at 100 you are 4" above bullseye 200 5", 300 -2.5 ,400 aim at the head.100 yard zero at 200 5" above bullseye,300 you are dropping 15.5 " so 35 yard zero it's the best for 308
I like to use the ballistic chart for the ammo I'm using to find what close range I can zero at to get me close at 100 yards. I'm glad Ron covered this in the video.
Remember that isn’t 100 %accurate barrel length and some manufacturers use cheap tactics to bump those numbers up .
@@Dcm193Thanks Dom, I'm certainly finding that out. I need to chronograph the loads to get a truer average MV and then see how the ballistic table from the app compares on drop at certain ranges.
I've used a 50 yard zero for years, after lots of shooting with different caliber rifles I've found that is the best over all zero for me. Thanks Ron for another great video.
It's not that simple really, but right idea.
Your spot on! Being a gun collector over 60 years and a hunter and reloader that’s what I sight my rifles in at too! Hundreds of rifles has proven it best! 5 generations of hunters and my grandfather was a marksman in the military so I have been around rifles my whole life and some of the best shooters as well and it also helps that I am good friend with the best gunsmith in the whole state who is a retired PRS shooter
@@lanceroberthough1275i "zero" my gun 2" low at 25yds gives me about a perfect 100yd zero
@@lanceroberthough1275 I don't understand what's not simple about a 50 yard zero, all the rifles I shoot are anywhere from 1 inch to 2 inch high at 100 and within 2 inches plus or midus at 200 and again within 2 inches plus or midus at 250 which is perfect for my hunting or defense needs.
A lot depends on the height of your scope above the bore. It affects the distances the bullet crosses the line of sight.
In the Army basic training, we started with the Garand at 25 yards. Many of the recruits have never fired a rifle before and this was close enough for beginners.
We then elevated a certain number of clicks from 25 yard zero, based on the ammo we were using. And that gave us a maximum point blank range of 400 yards when we fired on the Trainfire range.
Forgot to mention that we kept range cards with the sight adjustments where we kept the settings for trainfire exercises and can go back to them after, for example, a live fire exercise on the KD range. We also recorded these settings on our range cards.
@@andybreglia9431
The Garand's sight 'clicks' in elevation/windage were about 1 MOA/1" at 100 meters...
Hey Ron, another great video, sir. I know AR-15s aren't Your thing,however in the Army back in the 80s when an AR-15 (M16A1) with 55 grain FMJ was zeroed for qualification the two position rear sight was flipped to Long Range 300 meters and fired in a 3 round group at 25 meters and once a proper zero was achieved then the soldier went to the qualification range with pop up silhouette targets from 50-300 meters. While the 5.56 is relatively flat shooting cartridge the difference between the 0-200 and L for long made the difference that mattered, and I still remember a picture in our individual soldiers manual of the trajectory arc of the round at 25 meters thur 300 meters. Again thanks Ron for all of your great work, sir !
Great video, as usual. I stumbled onto this knowledge a few years ago while playing around with distances at the range. I was already zeroed for 200 yards with my 6.5 Creed, but I decided to take some shots at 50 yards to see where it hit. To my surprise, it was nearly dead on. Since then, I've started by zeroing my new guns at 50 yards (since my local range only has 50-yard increments). This gets me on paper and within a few inches of where I need to be when I back it up to 200. Point being, it's a good way to save some ammo whether you have a long range to shoot at or not.
I've always preferred having around a 2 to 3" high point of impact at 100 yards for most of my rifles. It sure makes longer shots easier to take, out to a reasonable distance of course. My Son took his longest shot on a deer at 366 yards and didn't need to hold off of the deers body. Good Content Ron. Thanks for sharing.
@RonSpomerOutdoorscammer
Another great video. I do at times sight rifles in at 25 yards. You've given me a lot of useful information in this video especially with the ballistic charts and calculators. Thank you sir..
Great video Ron. What I did this year is I set up a target at 200 yards and sighted in my .308. I’m shooting 3/4 of an inch high at that range, so I’m probably bang on at 225 yards. At 100 yards, I’m roughly 2.25 inches high. To me, 2 inches high at 100 yards is almost ideal if you are using non BDC reticles.
Great video Ron ... I use to have a Proffesor at uni in mechanics and hes go to saying was 'you can only manage what you can quantify' .... this video just reemphasised that point ... measure/know (quantify, dont guess) your variables and you can manage/predict the down range results ....important fundementals every hunter should consider and be aware of
I used a some tips from this channel to sight my rifle. I got close and pulled out the bolt looked through the barrel then adjusted my scope. Moved back 30 yards about and had it sighted with 3 or 4 shots. I haven't had an opportunity to shoot any further yet. But my thumb pad covered all my shots. Great advice. Saved me from wasting ammo doing it wrong.
Thank you for posting this ,I been trying to find a site that will work out for me since the one I had did not work anymore on my computer. Also going into details of what to do and how to measure for the height of the scope and the front sight . Always learning from you .
Take the MV of the ammo in fps and divide it by 100. That give the range in yards to set the target and sight in. It helps to use a chronograph to get the starting velocity. I've used this method of sighting in for at least 35 years.
Thank you very much
Excellent information! Very useful, thanks for posting this.
This video is great. I've been thinking about this method the past few days. Perfect timing, Ron!
I have been paying attention to the ballistic charts in the videos, and when applicable to what I shoot I have found it interesting.
This time I followed along using the suggested resources (Hornady ballistic calculator and ammunition pages) and I found some insight into zeroing a rifle I had been missing.
I copied the data into a few spread sheets, made some comparisons, and found specific ammunition and desired zero distances for a few of my rifles.
Thanks Ron! You are the champion, my friend. :-)
Great video! Thanks for making it simple and easy to understand the use of a ballistic calculator for newbies like me.
I used to look at the ballistics chart for the ammo and zeroed to where the chart said its trajectory would be at 25 yards depending on the distance you want zero set to.
Yup - that's the best way I've found to do it...and for me, having everything zero'd at 100 yards makes things less confusing, overall.
Just plug 100 in to the calculator for your zero, and then look at what it says for your trajectory at 25 or 30 or whatever and you can either put a mark above your bullseye that is that high to aim at, or expect it to land that amount below your bullseye if you prefer to aim at the bulls, and you should be golden at 100 yd.
If you can actually hold the rifle still and the ammo is consistent, you can have a nuts-on zero with just 2 shots at an indoor 25 yard range.
You could do the exact same thing if you prefer a 200 yard zero, of course. But instead of expecting to be .93" low at 30 yards, you'd expect to be .53" low.
- - - ALL of this, of course, assumes you have a Zero-MOA rifle, have Zero-MOA ammo, and are a Zero-MOA shooter. HAHA!
Excellent presentation. Thanks for the work you put into it
Another excellent tutorial on sighting in. Thank you Ron.
Excellent video Ron, something to many people just don’t think about.
Thanks
Great information Ron, thanks!
I’ve had good success zeroing my rifles at 50 yards; that’s everything from 17 HMR right up to 30-06. All is hand loaded hunting ammo. I don’t worry too much about chronographs; they can confuse and create issues that may not really be there, which can lead to chasing phantoms. Cheers from Down Under.
I read about this sighting method in the late '80s in an article published on the 1950's. I remembered that in 1974 we sighted our M16s at Ft. Lewis WA basic at 25 meters which would correspond to almost 28yard. The ammo we were using was the 62 grain ball which was rated at 2800-2900 fps. The light came on and I have used this method for over 35 years for sighting in firearms ever since but few have ever believed me. Thank you for bringing it back to our consciousness and please push it hard in the shooting sports. It will save everyone a ton of ammo and leg work!
Basic, AIT and OCS 1968-69 zeroed M14,M16 at 25m. Used ever since, in East in my area, if you get 100m shot it’s unusual most 50m or less. If you know the ballistics you would aim accordingly. Shooting off hand, as my professor would say an insignificant figure.
It wouldn’t be the first time someone had to change scopes due to scope failure. My son’s froze over internally, bad scope, and we hustled into town bought what we could find. We did the 25 yard thing with his 243. He wound up shooting his deer at about 50 yards. Did the trick! Thanks again for sharing info that a lot of folks might use especially in an emergency situation.
I have a 243, set at 2 1/2” high at 100 yards. Through trial and error I figured out 26 yards from the end of the barrel is right on. Great info, thanks.
Lol; pure joy in the bang and the punch on the sholder. Ecstatic when the group is sub-moa from a cold barrel and a well developed load.. A day at the range can be a wonderful day of walking. So much more fun when it's just you and the target, and there is no rush, and you've no better place to be. Hunting is the fruition of premeditated preparation. The tales you will gleefully share. The meals prepared just right, or the teaching dreams that cause you to wake in the middle of the night. Such is the lore of the hunt. A return to the primitive nature of your soul. I will survive.
Great video... Thanks Ron :)
So many people hate on mossberg rifles. If they are good enough for Ron they are good enough for me. I certainly like mine.
Man, that Mossberg is one good looking rig. They seem to be steadily improving all the time.
As usual great show,,,,always useful info.... so lucky to enjoy Ur expertise....
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and keep your videos coming please.
Really good information that's broken down and well explained.
Thanks for the video. I’ve learned so much from you👌
Now that you're dialed in where you want to be, go back and shoot a target at 25 and note where it lands. If you have a problem in the field and need to check zero, 100 yards may be hard to manage, but 25 is possible. Knowing that you need to be 1.2 inches low at 25 could be useful. I also put on a boresight and note on an index card that setting. The collimator and index cards always go into the truck on a hunting trip. Came in handy once.
I like to see you using the suppressor. Very good info. Thanks
Excellent work. As always.
Great video! And right on time for deer season, thanks Ron, by the way gonna take my mossberg 7mm prc on bear/deer hunt this year! Shot a box of shells through it and love it!
I've been military and civilian shooting over 40 years. These short range "zero" ranges only really get you close enough... close enough to do it at the range you really want it zeroed at. The further back you go the more accurate it gets. Of course you have to be capable of shooting consistently at distance of course.
Yep, the battle sight zero sight-in distance at 25 meters to produce a 300 meter zero ALWAYS requires adjustment at 300 meters for elevation.
true. i think that’s why he commented that this is useful specifically for people who dont have the option to zero the scope at longer range, and that it really has to be dead on (b/c error doubles as distance doubles)
Very interesting , great you pointed out how the height of the scope made a difference .
Good infothanks Ron
Ron you are my guy! My family has taught me at 25yds dialed in, you should always hit paper 100yds. I am a .270 guy and had to lower a little from 25 to 100. Has always felt cool to help others at range to understand many different angles and symmetries still can't compare with going to the range with your hunting bullets!
great video to point all these variables out. I had learned some of these when bullets were cheaper, and had previously joked on if they sold scope rings with 6 inch height so i could hold dead on out to 350 at a coyote.
Thanks for this video. I always enjoy learning something new and / or reaffirming a process or technique already in use. I have always sighted my rifles in Initially at thirty yards for a couple of reasons. First of all, that's all the distance I have at the house, but more importantly. I don't have a bore sight to help when sighting in a new rifle or scope. At 30 yards, it's going to at least be on paper. I always put a dot under bullseye the same distance as the height of my scope. Aim at the top dot and adjust so the round is hitting the bottom dot. Then, when I'm able to go shoot at 100 yards, I'm usually within a couple of inches, and finish zeroing at 100. For those looking for a decent target idea. We had gotten my grandson a cheap youth recurve bow and arrow set from Walmart. It came with a target. The bow really wasn't worth a crap and he didn't use it much before he outgrown it. But the target is a square piece of Styrofoam that had a couple field tip arrows with a T handle on top. It came with an adhesive target. It became his BB gun target, and then I started using it for my rifles. It's super lightweight, has its own anchors, and can quickly slap a new target on it. If anyone thinks that would work for them. The Styrofoam is like a thick packaging foam. About 2" thick, firm but not real hard and regid. It lasts a really long time.
Awesome vid, Ron! Thanks!
Thanks Curly.
Yep! My mate - who is a gun stock maker and a registered scope repairer - has his own sighting-in range marked on his gate. Once the rifle is trued-up and clamped in his wood vice, he then mounts the bases on the centreline of the barrel and then mounts the scope. Then, using the windage and elevation turret adjusters, the scope is pretty much zeroed in. 👍
Been doing this for years…it works. 👍 Personally I love a 200 yard zero for big game in my neck of the woods.
I’ve used a 25Yrd. Zero for a 8” kill Zone and a 50Yrd. Zero for a 6” kill Zone. This was also W/ a 1 1/2”COB Sight height. I’ve been using that since I was in the Army , except we used a 25Meter Zero. But… I’ve ALWAYS confirmed my Zero and made adjustments accordingly. As always another awesome video Mr. Ron.
0p0
That’s a great video and explains something not many people understand
I was taught to zero at 36 meters/40 yards and it's worked out very well for me. I never heard anyone say 30 yards would put me close enough.
It just depends on the speed and bc of the round. .243 can be doing anywhere between 3100 to 3900 fps depending on the bullet, and that can drastically change your zero. And that's with just one caliber in one barrel length.
Thank you sir these are excellent reminders of my past studies thank you for this
I know all this but still enjoying the video so clear and well presented thanks keep them coming
For deer season I’ve always sighted my gun in at 25 yards and have never had a problem out to 300 yards, I’m 35 and have been doing this since I was 7 it’s how my Father taught me to do it, and The .30 Cal is King of hunting, but I do love my .35 Whelen as well
Great information!!
Great Video Mr. Spomer and I’ve been zeroing my Rifles with 1 or 2 inches Low at 25 yards depending on which Rifle I’m Sighting in and I’ve always been sub 1 inch Accurate at 100 and 200 yards. It’s interesting how that works but the Bullet spin is certainly different at that close of a Range. If you have limited Shooting Range the 25 yard Zero is spot on. Stay safe my Friend Semper Fidelis
Always good to see Ron Spomer Outdoors Outdoors!
@RonSpomerOutdoor Looking forward for it 🤠
Great info. Thank you sir.
I like this guy. Great presentation!
Great video Ron, thanks
Ron, note that the average man of 5'10" - 6'1" has a 30" step; the D.S. pounds that into your brain during BCT. To move your target back 5 yards, you need to take 6 steps, not 5. The Army used 25.5M(1000") for the M16A1-2 when I was in; FM 3-22.9 will get you there. Keep up the good content, 99% of your stuff is spot on.
Recommend starting with a MPBR based on the target size, then run the ballistic calculations to determine the distance to your desired close distance zero… this close zero negates the wind effect zeroing the scope too. Remember altitude, temperature, and humidity differences between where/when the rife is zeroed vs. hunting also changes the point of impact especially at longer distances
Been using this method for years.
Frigginn excellent content. For real this is what everyone should be doing messing with ballistic calculators. Check the yardage when it drops back down is great too
This is great advice. I was sighting in my 416 Remington a 25 yards using an aimpoint red dot it took me 10 shots even to get on target. Then another 5 to get to zero. Then another 3 at 100 yardsto get on zero. After that I dont remember much. Must have been the concussion.
Thanks for the information it was very helpful
I remember some 30 plus years ago before all the good ballistic apps and rangefinders were available I might have a rifle like a 243 Winchester firing 100 grain ammo 2950 fps shooting say 1/2” high at 25 yards and thinking well it’s good.Move the target out to 100 yards and wow! it shoots 4 or 5 inches high and i was a bit puzzled.Finish zeroing at 100 yards and come back to 25 and it’s just 3/4” low and good to go.Kind of funny how ballistics work that way. Your optimal zero varies depending on the terrain,size of target and distance you may need to shoot.
Love your videos man
I "zero" everything at 25 yards but generally sight in .5" low @25yards. (Closer to zero with fast cartridges and maybe .75 or zero on pumpkin rollers.) It saves a lot of ammo getting on paper quicker. Fouling the barrel with 3 shots first before moving the turrets.
Great video Ron. You just took the food right out of Federal Ammunition's mouth. Lol
Excellent video. I prefer the phone app ballistic calculators because they don't require an Internet connection to provide you with data. Also, I've found the easiest way to measure scope height on a bolt action is to simply open the bolt and slide it back until the rear of the bolt is even with the rear of the scope. Then just grab a ruler and measure the distance between the center of the scope and bolt. It should be plenty close enough for this application.
Good tip. Never thought of this.
Interesting content. I've always shot at 25 yards and made adjustments to zero. Then shoot at 100 yards and make the appropriate adjustments. Hunting in the woods of north east Michigan, a 100 yard shot is pretty much my longest shot.
Very educational I was trying to explain this to a friend of mine after he shot a whole box of 300 magnum rounds and still was half foot off at 30 yd LOL
great job Ron.....thanks
Another great video, thank you.
Just curious, was your first shot from a cold bore or a clean bore? I feel there may be some nay sayers out there, but I'm one who will fire a round through just to "dirty up" and then make my adjustments. Maybe I'm wrong, but it's always worked for me.
Another Great Video💯 Thank you Ron 💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥
Funny, I seem to be wearing out that same ballistic calculator online just out of curiosity with all sorts of stuff. It's fun; the more you understand about external ballistics the more the numbers make sense and the more you can anticipate what the numbers will reveal or represent.
Whoa whoa whoa... Ron Spomer sporting a can on his hunting rifle? Awesome!
Thanks for the info. 👍👍👍👍
Thanks Ron
I’m now 61. When I was a kid, my father gave me my first centerfire rifle, a M70 243, and told me “the rule of 25s”. For a rifle with the scope 1.5” above the bore, we sighted in dead on at 25. That put the rifle 2.5” high at 100 yards, and back dead on at about 250. This is a rule of thumb, but a helpful one. For fun, sit down with a ballistics calculator and see how close it is.
That looks like a Stukey’s shooting bench. A bit expensive but worth every dollar. Good call Ron.
YES! I have not watched yet, but I have done this at 25 or 50 yards for a couple decades when I need to sight in in the high or gusty winds. Gets me effective to 400 yards.
Great information Ron! I usually bore sight the rifle and then check it at 25 yards to make sure it will be on paper and just as Ron says, it has has to be right on the dot. Then go to 100 yds and beyond to dial it in and check drops. I never had a chronograph, wish I did, so I guess on the speed. There is a way to true it on your ballistic calculator, but I haven't done that. Could you do a video on that where by the math and your shooting at distance you can true your data and get what your speed is?
Yesterday at the range I zeroed at -.4” at 25 yards. According to my ballistic chart I should be 2” high at 100, and dead on at 200, and 6.37” low at 300. But my longest area to shoot is only about 250. I hope the chart is right. My final 3-round group all touched each other -.4” at 25. I guess I’ll find out. There’s no 100 yard range near me. I feel confident. Enjoyed your video.
very good video , thank you sir.
Good video. Thank you.
Hi Ron,
I love your videos and still very much a novice enthusiast of the craft. Just today I went shooting to try and zero my rifle. On a 50 yrd range, I had to aim 9inches low to hit bullseye. The rifle is brand new Christensen Traverse chambered in 6.5 creedmoor. Shooting 125gr. Leupold vx6hd scope. Fresh out the box. I’m stumped. The Leupold only has “up” elevation. No down elevation. The windage was dead on. Elevation was the only issue. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
I shot and reloaded for a dozen rifles and always sighted in for 25 yards and then confirmed how high or low at 100 and 200 yards. The 25 yard zero was handy for small game which I shot while deer hunting.
I was discussing red dots with a coworker and I said it would be better to get the sight parallel to the bore than to have it dead on at 25 yards. My thought was the hole should be below the dot the same distance as the sight is above the bore. That would prevent you from shooting low at 10 yards and shooting high at 50+ yards, though the close range would not really be noticed. In a self defense situation being off by 1.5" won't really matter as you would be off about that much at most reasonable distances, but for actual target practice you would need to compensate a bit.
I was literally just talking about this idea the other day! Short range zero for get your close then you can use a longer range like 100 yards to validate windage is on. It let's you zero for a weird distance like 275 yards without having access to a really long shooting range. Just an aside, in this particular example with that data used for the calculator, instead of a 30 yard, I would have used around 34 or 35 yards for a 3.1 inch high around 150 yards and a final zero around 266 yards. 3 inches down at 310 yards. Kinda making me want a 6.5 PRC now. You still have to go shoot groups to validate at distance, there's no substitute for actually doing the shooting, but it should ball park you. Also, I should have finished watchin the video as you came to the same conclusion.
Great video I help people at a public range on a 25 to 75 yard range and we help get new guns on paper at 25 before sending them to the longer ranges. This helps confirm my advice given to most is rather solid, getting about two inches low is a safe bet on most hunting calibers and average scope mounts to then get you over to 100 and dial it in. This happened today while i was there but the young man first put a whole box of ammo at 100 hitting nothing before asking for help so with 50 dollars gone I sent him down to 25 to get on track. Its also a big saftey issue if you have no idea where a gun your shooting for the first time is at and you step out to 100 first. Id say everyone is better off bore sighting and then sighting in a couple/few inches low at 25.
I've been that guy. Then my poor older brother had to help me get my scope back to within the broad side of a barn so we could eventually get it on target.
Very interesting video 👍
that was good stuff
I also try to be about 1” low at 25 yards to get a close zero for 100 depending on the round. But then I will confirm at 100 and if needed make adjustments and then 1-2 groups at 100.
Some day, I hope to get started in the relatively new discipline of shooting .22 rimfire rifles out to 300 yards. It would be interesting to find a zero at 25 yards that would put me on at 300 yards. This is dependent on first finding the ammo the rifle likes.
Yay for Ron !!!!!!
Very interesting video.
Your videos are awesome